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Cordillera Real and Sajama. the Expedition I Led Was Dispatched by the Alpine Club of the Tokyo University of Foreign Studies

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Cordillera Real and Sajama. the Expedition I Led Was Dispatched by the Alpine Club of the Tokyo University of Foreign Studies Cordillera Real and Sajama. The expedition I led was dispatched by the Alpine Club of the Tokyo University of Foreign Studies. The rest of the party consisted of two graduates, Kunio Suzuki and Masaki Aoki, two students, Takaya Takeshita and Tadashi Inagawa, and my wife Akiko Mukou. W e arrived in La Paz on May 27 and stayed in Bolivia about three months, mountaineering in three stages. Franz Gutiérrez joined us in the first stage and Noel Castillo and Kanji Ohta in the second. Venancio Pachahuaya was tent keeper. All were from the Club Andino Boliviano. The first stage lasted from June 9 to 30. W e climbed eleven peaks in the untrodden area between Chachacomani and Condoriri of the Cordillera Real. W e established Base Camp south of Chachacomani. The ridge of peaks sweeps southeast from Chachacomani over Chachacomani Este to the pass between the Chachacomani and Vinohuara groups which lies above the East Chachacomani Glacier. From there the summits en­ circle the Vinohuara Glacier and are in order Vinohuara I and II, Peaks 5791 and 5812. The ridge then swings southwest to Hailliguaya I and then west over Hailliguayas II, III, IV and V, before it ends east of Base Camp. We made the following climbs from the Vinohuara Glacier: Vinohuara II (18,500 feet), Peak 5791 (19,000 feet), and Peak 5812 (19,068 feet) on June 15 by Takeshita, Inagawa, Aoki; Vinohuara I (18,400 feet) on June 16 by A. and I. Mukou, Suzuki, Gutiérrez; Hailliguaga II (19,120 feet) and III (19,150 feet) on June 17 by Take­ shita, Inagawa, Aoki; and Hailliguaya I (19,488 feet) on June 24 by Inagawa, Pachahuaya, I. Mukou. (The higher of the Vinohuara peaks was climbed by Ahlfeld and Hein in 1928. Climbs are presumed to be first ascents unless noted. — Editor.) Other climbs were made from the West Chachacomani Glacier. They were Nevado Yarigatake (19,029 feet) (Japanese for "Spear Peak”), which lies west of the glacier, on June 20 by Aoki, Inagawa; Chachacomani Sur (19,784 feet) on June 22 by Suzuki, Aoki, Inagawa, Takeshita, A. and I. Mukou; and Chachacomani (19,927 feet) on June 24 by Takeshita, Suzuki, Aoki. (Chachacomani was first climbed by Buchholtz, Fritz, Moller, Moore, Paz and Sanjinéz on January 8, 1947. — Editor.) In the second stage, from July 6 to 31, we got to the tops of eight peaks in the Sorata group. I think we were the first to climb Ancohuma from the north side. Hancopiti has seven peaks, numbered from west to east. Viluyo Ancohuma seems to be higher than 5600 meters (18,373 feet); these peaks are numbered from south to north. Base Camp was on the R ío Cooco. The first climb here was made from a Camp II southeast of Illampu of Peak 6056 (19,868 feet) on July 16 by Suzuki, Inagawa, Castillo. The mountain lies just south of Illampu. Two other high camps were placed on the northern slopes of the Hancopiti group. From there the following ascents were made: Hancopiti VII (19,193 feet) on July 23 by Suzuki, Aoki, Ohta; Han­ copiti I (19,236 feet) on July 24 by A. and I. Mukou; Ancohuma (21,082 feet) on July 25 by Takeshita, Inagawa, I. Mukou; Hancopiti IV (19,417 feet) on July 26 by Suzuki, Aoki, Ohta; Viluyo Ancohuma I (18,373 feet) in July 27 by Takeshita, Inagawa; Viluyo Ancohuma II (18,209 feet) and III (18,111 feet) on July 27 by A. and I. Mukou. (Ancohuma has been climbed a number of times, the first being by Dienst and Schulze on November 6, 1919; Viluyo Ancohuma was first climbed by Hein in 1928. — Editor.) The third stage lasted from August 12 to 18. On August 17 Inagawa and Suzuki climbed Sajama (21,424 feet), the highest mountain in Bolivia. This mountain had been ascended at least five times. Ic h iy o u M u k o u , Alpine Club of Tokyo University of Foreign Studies.
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