OUR Adventure Resorts & Lodges P.16

BACKYARD MT CURRAN BEAUFORTWILDWILD RANGE ISLEISLE The Islands' Adventure Magazine

August-September 2001 FREE

Nootka Sound First in a series of Regional

check in online www.wildisle.ca ProÞ les P.17

Mt Washington Bike Trails P.12 Lighweight Camp Stoves P.24 RESORT Modern accommodations with spectacular sunsets on Vancouver Island's Discover 'wild' West Coast the Spirit 1-800-661-9995 TOFINO - LONG BEACH BC Cover: Raph Bruhwiler emerges from the green room near Tahsis, by Aaron Jackson CONTENTSCCONTENTONTENTSS Contents: Ride’m cowboy, Kris Holm spurs his unicycle through the bike trials at the Test of Metal Mountain BC Parks View Point p 8 Bike Festival in Squamish, by Lara Hildebrandt

Mothership kayaking p 9

Wild Islander- p 11 Bonny Glambeck

Lift accessed fat fun p 12

Lost on Mt. Curran p 14

Resorts directory p 16

Nootka Sound Profi le p 17 www.wildisle.ca Tatchu Adventures p 22

Reviews p 24 west coast adventure •

WILD ISLE Wild Islander - Bonny Glambeck P. 11 Heriot Bay Inn & Marina Full Service Waterfront Resort

Historic B&B Inn • Historic B&B Inn Campground TEL: (250) 285-3322 • Campground FAX: (250) 285-2708 Kayak,• Kayak, Canoe Canoe & Boat & Rentals Boat Rentals FAX: (250) 285-2708 Pub & Restaurant EMAIL: [email protected] • Pub & Restaurant WEB: www.heriotbayinn.com www.wildisle.ca 3 WILD ISLE

elcome to our latest issue of WILWILDD ISLEISLE WWild Isle. This EDITORIAL issue we begin the fi rst Issue 17 Aug-Sept. 2001 in a series of regional By remaining and building within their profi les starting by communities they preserve not only their Publisher/Managing Editor highlighting the incredible own lifestyle but an integral part of what Philip Stone adventure opportunities to makes up coastal British Columbia. Nootka be found in and around Sound is a very special part of Vancouver Assitant Editor Nootka Sound. Island and if you haven’t been out there, Ryan Stuart It was an encouraging picture that was move it up the list and go and see for Art Director painted on an otherwise gloomy canvas yourself the beauty of the landscape and the Sheahan Wilson when we began researching this feature. The determination of those that inhabit it. struggle that the Nootka Sound communities We will be continuing this series of profi les Associate Editors have and are continuing to go through as the moving to the Comox Valley for our October- Tanya Storr, Greg Shea major industrial employers pull out or scale December issue. If you can assist or would like down their operations is playing itself out to draw attention to a particular area that we Feature Contributors all over the island and the coast at large. It could feature please don’t hesitate to contact us. Andy Smith, Paul Macoun is changing the face of the towns and their Throughout the summer I was invited Ryan Stuart, economies. by CBC Victoria to highlight on their Philip Stone, Carole Kim Change can be benefi cial but when the morning show ‘On the Island’ some of the direction, time frame and end result are awesome adventure recreation activities and Photography uncertain new opportunities are easily destinations we are blessed with around Greg Shea, Paul Macoun masked in a cloud of doubt. Kudos should Vancouver Island. Our thanks to the CBC Philip Stone, Lara Hidebrandt, Dan be credited to the people and businesses Victoria crew for providing the opportunity Graham, Aaron Jackson that are striking out on new ventures like and helping spread the good news of all that tourism and other low impact and value awaits on the Wild Isle. Wild Isle is published 5 times a year by added enterprises. Philip Sone Wild Isle Media and is distributed free of charge across Vancouver • Canadian Avalanche Association Curriculum Island, the Sunshine Coast, Queen Charlotte Islands and B.C. Mainland Coastal Communities. • Certified and Experienced Instructors • Customized Courses Editorial & Advertising Inquiries to: • NEW! Backcountry Ski/Snowshoe clinics Wild Isle Magazine Don't Leave Home Without It! P.O. Box 482, Heriot Bay, B.C. Canada V0P 1H0 Tel: 250 285-2234 Fax: 250 285-2236 RRecreationalecreational Avalanche Awareness eMail: [email protected] Web Site: www.wildisle.ca Call for more Opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and in no way refl ect the views of the publishers, editorial staff, distributors information or advertisers. The sports featured in Wild Isle are 250-897-3254 inherently dangerous with real risk of serious injury or death. In no way [email protected] whatsoever should this magazine be taken to advocate participation in any activity Courses start in mid portrayed. Wild Isle is provided for reading December and run enjoyment only. until March. If you choose to engage in any activity featured in Wild Isle you do so www.island.net/~hipski at your own risk. Printed on Quadra Island, B.C. Canada by Castle Printing 250 285-2679 ISSN 1480-4026 All rights reserved. Copyright 2001 Join CBC radio one Publication mail agreement number – 1408593 Wednesday mornings 8:40 am this summer for Next Deadline for tips and ideas on places Advertising & Editorial and things to do September 14th, 2001 for off the beaten track on the Island. Issue 18 - Oct-Dec 2001 "On The Island" Weekdays 6-9 am 4 www.wildisle.ca Surf Competition and Party FROM THE FIELD Plans are shaping up for the around the world have also second Pro-Am surf competition registered. Confi rmation has also held in Canada. The Quiksilver/ been received from GOB and Moutain Bike Access Notice Roxy Summer Surf Jam 2001 OCEAN3, for the spectator and Mountain bikers beware. BC Falls Provincial Park - access being will hit the beach at Cox Bay surfer apres party. Parks and the new Ministry of from the water tower location at near Tofi no on August 18 and This event will be hotly Water, Land and Air protection the Campbell River logging bridge,” 19. This years event will feature contested as winners will qualify are telling two wheeled fantatics to said the statement. 136 competitors, both men and for the 2002 World Surfi ng respect the rules at Campbell River It continued to say, “These rules women competing in hopes of Games and top Canadians can area hiking trails. will be strictly enforced with a $86 walking away with their share of qualify for the Canadian National In a press release mountain fi ne. If mountain bikers continue over $10,000 in cash, prizes and Team. bikers were asked to stay off the to use unauthorized trails it may giveaways. For more information, to Canyon View and Quinsam River result in all trails being closed to Competitors are sure to put on register for the events or buy trails within Elk Falls Provincial mountain biking.” a show with the like of Megan tickets to the party check out Park. Please respect BC Parks rules Abubo, ranked number two in the British Columbia Surf “Mountain bikers may use the and keep the trails open for the the world, registered. Local Association Web site at trails on the eastern side of Elk enjoyment of everyone. hot shots and surfers from www.bcsa.ca

Unidentifi ed Flying Objects Take A Safari - West Coast Style Sighted on Mt. Washington CAMPBELL RIVER, BC– historic Haig-Brown House, fl y In what appears to be an episode had a blast and a good workout as Destiny River Adventures today over the discovery islands, have a out of The X Files, large numbers well.” announced an amazing seafood lunch at a remote island of fl ying saucers have been sighted The course starts at the base of combination full day trip that you resort and take a marine boat hovering in the vicinity of the the Whiskey Jack lift, winds it’s www.wildisle.ca won’t fi nd anywhere else. The tour back to your destination resort. way through trees and open spaces • trip combines a short, splashy all in the same day!" said Larry Further investigation confi rmed to end up at the bottom of the run of river rafting, fl oatplane Langford of Vancouver Island the activity, but luckily earth Eagle Express High Speed Quad fl ight seeing over the islands of Air. domination by an outer space lift, which is open for the summer. Johnstone Strait, and wildlife Several familiarization tours power is nowhere to be seen. The most diffi cult hole is #6 with viewing in a covered catamaran have already taken place with However, groups of excited its 114 yards of steep incline. from Stuart Island to Campbell tour operators and early individuals were spotted taking This course is guaranteed to be a River. Working together with indications from industry are part in the latest sport phenomena: challenge to all levels. It’s FREE to several other operators has very positive. Disc Golf! play on the course if you bring your produced an excellent result. "The history, wildlife and Mt. Washington Alpine Resort own discs, otherwise, you can rent "We are very excited to be adventure of this amazing trio of is now open for its summer season a disc for $3.50 from the hill. Discs working with two other quality activities will take your breath and there is a whole lot of are also available for purchase in adventure companies, Vancouver away and leaves you feeling in west coast adventure excitement being generated around Altitude Sports and Gifts in The Island Air and Morgan’s Landing tune with the west coast life- the brand new Disc Golf Course. Alpine Lodge. Retreat, to offer this unique West style", said Rose Epp of JAC Disc Golf is played much like Negotiations are under way to Coast Safari experience", said Travel Canada. traditional golf, but instead of a ball hold a British Columbia Disc Sports Jim DeHart of Destiny River Destiny River Adventures, and clubs, players use fl ying discs, Society (BCDSS) sanctioned event Adventures. “This tour has been located in Campbell River, BC, much like a Frisbee. A specially in 2002. developed specifi cally for the bus is Vancouver Island’s premiere weighted golf disc is thrown from If you have been wondering WILD ISLE tour market. Our capacity is 48 river rafting company offering a a tee area to a target, which is the what all the hype is around Disc participants and we offer an number of river rafting tours in “hole.” The most common hole is Golf, now is great time to come incredible day”. the North Central Island region of a chain-link basket. and play for yourself. You can also "It’s action packed! No where Vancouver Island, call 250-923- As a player progresses down catch some of our local experts else can you raft a river, tour RAFT or www.destinyriver.com the fairway, each shot must be make some extraordinary shots taken from where the previous on this challenging Mountain throw lands. The trees, shrubs and course. And spend some time at natural terrain changes located in “Hole # 10”, Fat Teddy’s Bar and and around the fairways provide Grill for an exciting après’ with challenging obstacles for the cool beverages and yummy menu golfer. choices. “Our new course is designed Warning: Disc Golf may become to be challenging for the whole habit forming. It’s been said that no family. It’s a Par 31 course, and one can play just once. Check out should take about an hour to Mt. Washington Alpine Resort’s play” says Don Sharpe, Director website at of Resort Services for Mt. www.mtwashington.bc.ca for more Washington. He adds, “I played information and the exciting the course with my kids ages 10, schedule of events for Summer 8 and 5 the other day and we 2001! www.wildisle.ca 5 HAPPENINGS Heli Hiking Takes Off Dreaming of soaring with the alpine meadows aglow as wild Every Tuesday BMX races Qualicum Beach eagles over the waterways and fl owers and glacier fed streams Every Sunday Mountain Market - Mt Washington mountains that surround our come alive with colour. High Arts and Craft Fair island paradise? Then take to above the emerald inlet waters August 3 – 6 Adrenalin Fest - Mt Washington the skies with Discovery Heli gentle alpine ridges and meadows Mountain Bike Clinics Mt Washington Adventure the latest addition await the casual walker and eager August 4 & 5 Strathcona Offroad Triathlon Campbell River to Quadra Island’s thrill packed hiker alike. With the security (250)923-7911 adventure tour industry. Three Ferries Ride- Victoria and logistical expertise of a Cowichan to Salt Spring There is no better way to professional guide at hand and (250)480-5155 see the Discovery Islands than a gourmet lunch to savour, a August 8 & 9 Dragon Boat Festival Victoria from the air. Lifting off from heli hiking day trip to the Coast Colleen (250)472-2628 island resorts with Vancouver Range mountains will be an August 16 – 19 Mountain Musicfest Mt Washington Island Helicopters’ fi rst rate experience to remember for a August 18 MS Bike Tour Victoria pilots, Discovery Heli Adventure lifetime. (250)388-6496 over a variety of interpretive For special occasions there’s August 18 & 19 12-hours of Phat Fun Mtn. Bike race Campbell River scenic tours and guided hiking ( 250)286-6340 no treat like it, catered alpine Summer Surf Jam Tofi no tours to such world class picnics, champagne breakfasts, August 24 – 26 Epic Fest - Mtn. Bike trials & bike Campbell River destinations as: Desolation glacier walks if you can imagine skills events, (250)286-6340 Sound, Bute Inlet, Toba Inlet, Mt it Discovery Heli Adventure can September 1 Full Moon Sunset Ride Mt Washington Waddington and the Discovery arrange it. & Dinner Islands. For more information call September 1 & 2 Mtn. Bike Downhill Race Mt Washington The seasonal winter snows 250 285-2724 or visit online September 21 – 23 Bamfi eld Sea Kayak Festival Bamfi eld will soon be gone leaving the www.heliadventure.com (250)728-3500

If you want to have your event in HAPPENINGS, send us a fax at (250) 285-2236 or email at [email protected] with all the dirt. Rainforest Tours in the Mt. Arrowsmith Biosphere Reserve Grouse Mt. Hosts World Cup One of the fi nest eco-tourism growth forests and interpretive Grouse Mountain hosted destinations this country has to forest tours where they guide World Cup mountain bike offer, the Ancient West Coast you through the “Land of the races on July 6 thru 8. Riders Temperate Rainforest, is now Giants” where some of the trees from around the world came available as a one day adventure are 1500 years old and 290 feet out to race in cross coutry, geared for people of all ages and tall. Mode of transportation to downhill races, and agianst abilities. Tours depart from the their wilderness destinations is each other in dual slalom resort community of Parksville a four-wheel drive van. They events. The epic riding the in dry rainshadow climate, then operate year round, with some North Shore is known for travel to some of the last virgin destinations changing with the got spectators pumped and rainforests remaining in North seasons. They offer over a dozen challenged the best riders in America. Coastal Rainforests different day trips that include the world. have existed for some 2 million activities such as storm watching, Mens’ Downhill years, with the biomass of the 1. Barel Fablen, Fra wildlife viewing, whale 2. Christopher Kovarik, Aus trees and plants in these forests watching, eco-forestry, native 3. Mick Hannah, Aus being the heaviest in tonnes per culture, wild fl ower and birding hectare in the world. tours, and ancient rainforest Womens’ Downhill 1. Anne-Caroline Chausson, Fra Sean McCarroll rips up Grouse, Gary & Ronda Murdock, walks. June though October they 2. Missy Giove, USA photo by Dan Graham. owner/operators of Oceanside offer guided day hikes to alpine 3. Tracy Moseley, Gbr area’s newest eco tour company meadows, lakes and several love Vancouver Island and never mountain tops. The mountain Mens’ Cross Country New Adventure 1. Chrisoph Sauser, Sui cease to be amazed by the Island’s tops include; the site of a World 2. Roland Green, Can Fitness splendid natural beauty and War two plane crash, Mt 3. Cadel Evans, Aus Adventure Fitness opens diversity. Arrowsmith for spectacular Womens’ Cross Country warehouse shop in North Pacifi c Rainforest Adventure views of Georgia Strait and the 1. Barbara Blatter, Sui Vancouver, B.C.. Sales and rentals Tours Inc. was formed and Port Alberni Inlet, and other 2. Chrissy Redden, Can of Seaward, Wilderness Systems, started operating in February Mountain tops that are the homes 3. Alison Dunlap, USA Ocean Kayak, Nova Craft and 2001. The company’s mission of Roosevelt elk and the Womens’ Dual Slalom Navarro kayaks and canoes Located statement is: to enhance ones’ endangered Vancouver Island 1. Leigh Donovan, USA just over the bridge in North environmental awareness and Marmot. 2. Anne-Caroline Chausson, Fra Vancouver at 1475 Hunter Str., Ph cultural appreciation while For more information and 3. Tara Llanes, USA 604-715-7174 After 11 years on providing a unique nature bookings visit the website at Mens’ Dual Slalom Granville Ils., Its a better pace with experience to people from all www.rainforestnaturehikes.com 1. Brian Lopes, USA greater parking and less hustle and walks of life. or you can phone, 2. Eric Carter, USA bustle of the tourist trade. Their specialty is ancient old 3. Mickael Deledycke, Fra 250-248-3667. 6 www.wildisle.ca Horne Lake Access Status WILD ISLE www.wildisle.ca HORNE LAKE- Texada Land need for access, to the attention Corporation recently contacted of all parties. Adventure CASBC, to remind us that the If you insist on climbing cliffs at Horne Lake are closed. at Horne Lake despite the The situation is thus unchanged. closure, keep as low a profi le as Conduit Climbing is not permitted at possible. 2002 Advertising information Horne Lake, and as far as the • Avoid any interference with [email protected] 250 285-2234 now available company is concerned, any logging operations. Park on climbers there are trespassing. We the main road, or better still at understand that some climbers the campground, and stay away from Alberta who arrived when when falling, sorting or loading North Island Kayak Rentals & Tours logging was underway were asked is underway. Especially if any to leave. Logging is ongoing, helicopter logging occurs. If Serving and although not continuous logging is underway when you Northern Vancouver Island apparently includes some arrive, assume you will be and the Central Coast weekends. denied access. Discussions between TLC, the • Be aware of hazards e.g. Ministry of Highways (which ‘hanger’ trees, unstable debris, owns some of the land), and and such. the cottage leaseholders on the • Observe posted restrictions. north side of the lake are ongoing. • Don’t make fi res of any CASBC is monitoring the kind, and be very careful with discussions, and has brought cigarettes etc. climbing at Horne Lake, and the www.wildisle.ca

2 locations • Alder Bay/Johnstone Strait & Mt. Washington Summer Fun Port Hardy second weekend included the Mt. Washington Alpine Resort For information or brochure Toll Free 1 877-949-7707 The warm days of summer are hosting of Ecowest’s Adventure www.island.net/~nikayak here at Mt. Washington Resort Race on June 30 as well as [email protected] offering visitors the chance to Canada Day celebrations. The experience Vancouver Island’s events continue throughout the high alpine. It is shaping up to summer with Sunday Craft fairs be a year of growth as the resort and Brunch, Art shows, family air nootka is set to become a four season picnics, horse back riding, beer

west coast adventure destination. and wine festivals, a mountain Get away from it all and hike the west coast of The completion of the New Luau, Full moon sunset chair Nordic Lodge (now named Raven rides, a four day music festival Nootka Island Lodge) in late summer, in August and much more. renovations to Fat Teddy’s Bar Sharpe adds “We are also to Friendly Cove. and Grill’s stage, the addition of starting Children’s Camps this a new meeting room for up year. They are designed so Mom Hike 4 or 5 days

WILD ISLE to 50 people, the building of a and Dad don’t have to worry (or longer) and nine hole Disc (Frisbee) Golf about babysitters as we will experience the rugged course, additional bike and have an early morning pickup hiking trails, and numerous and a late afternoon drop off. beauty of this historic island. events will make Mt. Washington Plus we will pick up and drop Surf, camp, hike, swim and Resort an exciting place to visit off the kids in Courtenay!” watch Pacific sunsets by this summer. Mt. Washington Alpine the campfire. “This summer the addition of Resort is located 30 minutes some new and exciting events from Courtenay or Campbell and activities are important to River and is situated adjacent Air Nootka offers 3 different size aircraft to us” comments Don Sharpe, to Strathcona Provincial Park. accommodate your group, Cessna, Beaver and Otter Director of Resort Services. „ All are welcome to come up to We want to give those visiting the mountain and take a look at Give us a call us lots more to do when they the work in progress. Fireweeds come up”. Restaurant and Altitude Sport for rates and The resort kicked off the & Gift are open daily. summer season June 23 with Visit their website at information daily operation of the Scenic www.mtwashington.bc.ca or Chair Ride, a Village cleanup call (250) 338-1386 for more 250 283-2255 and a homeowners BBQ. The information. [email protected] www.wildisle.ca 7 to local wildlife managers. If you are attacked by a wolf The risk of being attacked by a wolf is extremely low. But if an by attack does occur, fi ght back using Andrew Smith your fi sts, a chunk of wood, rocks, or any other weapon available to you. Concentrate your blows on Sail • Kayak • Trek its face and snout. Of the small number of attacks by wild wolves Wolves are Wild Animals that have been documented in North America, none to date has resulted in a human fatality. If he risk of being attacked that humans perceive as aggressive. you end up killing the aggressive by a wild wolf is Most seemed indifferent or even wolf, save the undamaged head extremely low, and fear playful in the presence of humans. T and have the appropriate offi cials of wolves should not keep anyone Fearlessness can give rise to submit the head to a laboratory for from spending time in areas situations where wolves start rabies tests. inhabited by wolves. However, taking human food and garbage, Dens and rendezvous sites wolves are wild animals and and may boldly tear up fabric-based If you encounter a den site or should be treated as such. With human possessions such as clothes, rendezvous site (site where adult less persecution of wolves packs, or tents. Additionally, an old wolves leave pups while adults presently than in the past, wolves or debilitated wolf may approach hunt) leave the area immediately. may be more likely to occupy human dwellings or lose their Wolves at dens or rendezvous sites areas inhabited by people such as normal caution in an attempt to may be defensive of their young and towns and campgrounds. When obtain food. howl, bark, and act aggressively. attitudes about wolves were more Most wolves will try to avoid This may be unnerving to humans negative, such bold wolves were people. Dogs may serve as an but this behavior has not yet 800-939-6644 usually eliminated. attractant to wolves, and may be resulted in an attack on a human. 250-935-6749 In a handful of encounters over perceived by wolves as either a The best solution is to stay clear the past two decades, humans trespassing canid to be accosted or of dens and rendezvous sites. may have contributed toward as a meal. Disturbing wolves at this critical wolf habituation, either directly Wolves should not be allowed to time of year may result in or indirectly, and caused a few frequent campgrounds/ abandonment of the den. wolves to overcome their fear of backcountry camps. Because of humans. Some bold wolves bit their generally curious nature, Conclusion people in camp areas after wolves wolves may be attracted to such It is not necessary to fear wolves. had become familiar with human places for their novelty as much The vast majority of encounters presence and may have received as the possibility of obtaining food. between wolves and humans will food rewards. This relatively Such an attraction can quickly simply provide rare viewing new phenomenon of nuisance become a problem if the wolf opportunities of these normally wolves has not reached the level of acquires food or its tolerance of elusive animals. However, as with problem bears, campground deer, people increases. After all, this all large carnivores, it is important or suburban coyotes. However, as technique thousands of years ago that people maintain a healthy more people spend time in habitat resulted in the domestication of the respect for wolves. By following occupied by wolves, the number wolf and the rise of the domestic these safety tips you can reduce of encounters with wolves will dog from wolf ancestors. For their the chances of having a potentially probably increase. own good, wolves need to be taught dangerous encounter with a wolf What is a dangerous wolf? to avoid us by people responding and improve your response in All of the wild wolves that aggressively toward wolves. the unlikely event that such an injured people in North America What to do if you encounter a encounter does occur. (6 wolves involved in 7 incidents fearless wolf? For more information about from 1987-2000, and two verifi ed If you encounter a fearless wolf Strathcona District parks, you prior to this time) were described you should yell at the animal, can contact BC Parks, Black Creek as “fearless” animals. In most throw rocks or sticks, and act offi ce at (250) 337-2400. cases they had been associating aggressively toward it. Pick up If you have a point of view with humans for weeks or months small children, and use pepper about wildlife/human encounters before the attacks occurred. Thus, spray if you have it. Do not run or any other park related topic, a wolf that approaches humans away because this may precipitate please contact Andy Smith, BC calmly and without fear is a predatory response by the wolf. Parks, Extension Offi cer at Tel: potentially dangerous. None of Remember that a wolf that bites (250) 337-2405, Fax: 337- 5695. the wolves that have bitten people a human will be destroyed, so E-mail:[email protected] in North America behaved in an by responding appropriately to a or send letters to BC Parks, overtly aggressive manner before fearless wolf you may reduce the Strathcona District, 1812 Miracle the attacks. None of them bared risk to yourself, other people, and Beach Drive, Black Creek, British their teeth, raised their hackles, to the wolf. Report all incidents of Columbia, V9J 1K1. or exhibited any other behavior wolves exhibiting fearless behavior 8 www.wildisle.ca PASSAGE ON A Eight mothers, open water and a tear. It could only mean one thing, the Orcas are back in Johnstone Strait MOTHERSHIP

devoted to family and mothers. The fact that Orcas are also called Killer Whales wasn’t intimidating. The resident pods of Johnstone Strait fed on salmon, not mammals. When Spirit of the West Adventures’ owners, John and Christine booked us on a 5 day Mothership tour, my family thought that we were going on a Star Trek adventure aboard the SS Enterprise, but we immediately knew that this appropriately named excursion would be other-worldly in a different sense. The Songhee, a 95 ft. wooden heritage vessel with six guest staterooms, would serve as our home base. The ship would allow us to sleep in comfortable beds, eat delicious, healthy gourmet foods and even relax in a hot tub as we motored www.wildisle.ca

along the coasts of Vancouver Island. The ship would also be a • By Al Keith backup in case our arms gave out in the kayaks. We toasted our departure as the Songhee motored from Port McNeill up Village Channel to Farewell Harbor on Berry Island. Dall’s porpoises, beautiful black and white porpoises often mistaken for baby Orcas, raced alongside the boat. A trio of bald eagles soared overhead. Harbour seals played in front of us, and we heard over the captain’s radio another boat had spotted a humpback whale. We watched for grizzly and black bears scavenging by the shore and Pacifi c white-sided dolphins playing in the waves. dripped off my cheek-was it a tear, or the spray As if our smudged eyeglasses had suddenly been wiped

west coast adventure clean, colours were vibrant and sharp when not obscured by Waterfrom the whale’s blowhole? As we paddled next to hazy city smog. Sounds were crisp and clear without any the Orca whales, clicking and squeaking sounds surrounded us whenever competing noise. And the silence was deafening. That evening before retiring, we watched the eerie glow of bioluminescence the six ton mammals surfaced in the water nearby., The majestic male bull from the phosphorescent plankton in the churning water. led in front with his immense dorsal fi n towering fi ve feet above the water. The fi rst morning’s heavy fog evaporated into warm sunshine just in time for the launching of our kayaks. After WILD ISLE The adolescents surfaced and dove in perfect synchrony on my left while an informative lesson on safety and paddling technique by the whale on my right wheezed as she came up for air. Spray from the John Waibel, our guide and co-owner of Spirit of the West, we were helped into the single and double kayaks. With seven blowhole exploded in the sunlight with sparkling brilliance. Kayaking in accommodating, friendly staff and crew for eight women, the middle of a pod of Orcas, was a heart-pounding dream-come-true. With we felt every need and concern was attended to, including the trepidation felt by those of us who had never paddled the radiant sunshine, cloudless sky, and clear cool water, I knew that even before. Fortunately, kayaking requires little skill to maneuver dreams don’t get as good as this. around and we soon found ourselves gliding past pictographs painted on the cliffs thousands of years ago, and burial boxes When seven female friends and I decided to go on a whale watching containing the remains of the Kwakwaka’wakw people. kayak trip in Johnstone Strait, we were housewives going on a nature tour. Arriving at the historic Mi’mkwamlis village of the What we hadn’t expected was that this tour would lead us to a mental Mamalilaculla people on Village Island, we pulled our kayaks equilibrium on the water that could not be found on land. Most of us had on to the midden beach, a beach formed from hundreds spent the last few decades raising children in Orange County, California of years of discarded white clam shells. We heard Tom and some were now raising grandchildren. Not typical adventurers, but Sewid, a descendent of the Kwakwaka’wakw, describe potlatch we were immediately drawn to this trip. celebrations and tribal lore as he stood fl anked by an old Maybe it was the fact that Orca whales, members of the dolphin schoolhouse and a tribal longhouse, and wearing a resplendent family, are a matriarchal society. Females remain with their mothers and ceremonial robe. In ancient times, the Kwakwaka’wakw grandmothers even after giving birth and are often assisted by them in believed that great hunters were reincarnated as wolves and raising and caring for their young. We felt a connection with this species Orca whales (that they call Blackfi sh). www.wildisle.ca 9 The charming port of Echo Bay on Gilford Vancouver Island. The 1000 acre reserve islands we had visitied. On departure day Island in the Broughton Archipelago was the is home to about 300 Northern Resident we would disembark at Port McNeil to do a next day’s destination. Set against a rocky whales. Researchers speculate that they little souvenir shopping in the small bustling cliff, the small colorful buildings housed a gift return here every summer to rub their bellies town before bidding a sad farewell to our shop with lovely handmade items, bakery, on the rocky beaches and to socialize. This adopted family, the Spirit of the West crew. and a small grocery, all of which seemed warden-patrolled, protected sanctuary is off- Time was running out to realize my long suffi cient to sustain its population of 36 and limits to boats. As a result, tour boats pace held fantasy of kayaking with the gentle assorted fi shermen and boaters that pass back and forth outside the Reserve markers giants. As the Songhee did a fi nal lap through through. Here live local heros, Billy Proctor awaiting the arrival of the whales. Johnstone Strait toward Alert Bay, a pod and Alexandra Morton. Billy, a retired In contrast to the tiny inlets of the of Orcas startled us when they suddenly fi sherman and logger, watched much of the Broughton Archipelago, the enormity of the appeared around the ship. Without time wildlife diminish to near extinction during Strait made us decide to use horsepower to grab a camera or hat, John launched the his lifetime and is leading the battle to save instead of womanpower to fi nd the whales. kayaks and we scrambled in for the paddle them. On motorized tenders, we searched for them. of my dreams. As the whales drew close, Alexandra, a whale researcher, came to the As if greeting us, the fi rst Orca we spotted time slowed down and the realization of the island with her husband to study and fi lm the spyhopped, launching out of the water head enormity of these creatures sank in. A fl ip Orcas. Tragically, her husband died a few fi rst and, I’m convinced, waved his fl ippers of their tail would have sent us sprawling. years later when his diving gear failed while at us. His tuxedo-like coloring made it Instead, these gentle creatures allowed us to briefl y enter their domain and be awed by their company. Within a few minutes, they All I need to do is close my eyes to see the black did a fi nal dive and disappeared. No celluloid proof or tangible evidence fi ns in the water next to me, smell the salty spray exists to prove that this fi nal paddle ever from the blowholes, and feel the warmth of the sun occurred, but all I need to do is close my eyes to see the black fi ns in the water next to me, on my face. The water on my cheek reappears, and smell the salty spray from the blowholes, and yes, it is a tear of joy. feel the warmth of the sun on my face. The water on my cheek reappears, and yes, it is a tear of joy. fi lming the Orcas underwater. She stayed to a very formal welcome. We listened to do further research, but has been diverted their vocalizations on the hydrophone and to lobby against pesticide spraying, which watched a cow, with her calf close by, kills salmon, the primary food source for the head into the Reserve. Taunting the tour whales. She’s also battling the local salmon boats that were unable to follow, the pod farms which have been the source of disease playfully breached six times upon entering in the native wild salmon. A devoted mother the Reserve, landing into the water with raising a family, fi ghting for the animals grand splashes. Their awesome power and she loves, and living on an island without beauty was enough to silence all eight electricity, telephone lines, or TV signals, women, not an easy feat! Alexandra inspired us. Twilight fi shing was on the agenda that The sunset kayak paddle that evening evening with John and Curly, both former through the islets of the Broughton commercial fi shermen. Since the sun sets Archipelago was better than Prozac. We after 9:30 during summer evenings, we had Upcoming Course Dates paddled on smooth refl ective water around plenty of time to cast a few lines into the Insect Island (an ominous name, but water. A couple of small rockfi sh and a small Advanced Wilderness thankfully no insects were to be found) and striped bass were the only ones willing to First Aid Programs watched the sky’s blazing oranges and reds be caught, but several exciting bites kept the mix with the lingering blues and purples adrenaline pumping. $578 + GST of daylight as the mountain shadows slowly Putting in our kayaks just north of the August 20-30 Vicoria, BC grew longer across the water. Silvery baby Reserve by the Sophia Islands on that fi nal September 20-29 Vancouver, BC salmon frolicked and splashed around us. day, we hoped to avoid the crowds and meet October 12-21 Nelson, BC Labyrinthine waterways made it easy to the whales entering the Strait. In the heavy Oct. 25-Nov. 3 Canmore, AB become lost, but it was easy not to care. mist, we quietly paddled past a shrimping Like the Natives, we had become comfortable boat retrieving its cages and let driftwood EWFA Programs with the water as a destination, not just fl oat past us near the craggy rocks that purple $228 + GST a thoroughfare to another land mass. sea stars latched on. A great blue heron Sept. 29/30-Oct. 6/7 Vancouver, BC Everywhere we looked was a visual feast. soared overhead while we watched a bald Oct. 27/28-Nov. 3/4 Victoria, BC It was like falling in love: it gave me goose eagle raid a ravens nest. The whales were bumps. playing hide and seek, so we returned to the toll free On Day three, with kayaking skills honed ship. and armed with knowledge of whale behavior For our fi nal night, Captain Jim announced 1-800-760-3188 we were anxious to meet Orcas. Cruising that we would anchor at Alert Bay. The email south through Blackfi sh Sound, we headed town is home to a beautiful arrangement [email protected] towards the Robson Bight-Michael Biggs of totem poles in a park near the BC ferry Ecological Reserve located where the Tsitika terminal, otherwise it lacked the natural River fl ows into Johnstone Strait on beauty and charm of the other ports and www.slipstreamadventures.com 10 www.wildisle.ca W BONNY GLAMBECK I Instigator of environmental change tarting up a sea kayaking borrowed one and commuting by kayak became part of company on Vancouver Island her life. L Sis not a truly original venture. But starting one that is entirely geared Bonny’s life did not slow down. Not long after she D toward low environmental impact and arrived she was arrested trying to stop old growth logging. richer client experience, is original. “I just loved the area so much, I couldn’t stand to see it Bonny Glambeck, with partner Dan logged.” For her efforts she was sentenced to spend six Lewis, started Rainforest Kayak days in a maximum security prison. Adventures in 2000. Based in Tofi no, Rainforest offers a whole host of trips The 1993 decision to save only one third of Clayoquot I and leadership courses. But instead of Sound, and to log the rest, was met with shock and the industry norm of ten clients per anger by people across Canada and around the world Bonny Glambeck: S trip Bonny and Dan take a maximum of activist, paddler and who recognized the area’s global ecological signifi cance. That eight. bringer of change summer ten thousand people visited the Clayoquot Peace Camp, and almost one thousand people were arrested. Bonny L “We want to keep our company small,” Bonny said. was Action Coordinator for the Friends of Clayoquot Sound. She “That way we have a smaller footprint and can offer a coordinated music bands, events and volunteers. “With all the richer experience for those that come with us. There needs smaller blockades we learned how to co-ordinate non-violent direct www.wildisle.ca A to be limits on tourism operators if the we want to avoid action . We got pretty skilled at it. In 1993 it took off far bigger than • N the pitfalls of other industries.” we expected.” Things need to change if Tofi no, Clayoquot and other Getting the other two thirds of Clayoquot protected and ending marine areas are to remain wild, Bonny says. Creating old growth logging has driven Bonny ever since. But instead of D change is an activity that Bonny is well versed in. standing on logging roads, now she is going directly to buyers of ancient rainforest products, to ask them to stop buying. “If logging E During the 80’s Bonny visited the Pacifi c Rim from companies can’t sell the wood they won’t cut it down”. Bonny and her prairie home of Red Deer Alberta. A few visits Dan went to Japan this year and the results are impressive. Seventy later she had fallen in love with the small town, marine companies, including Mitsubishi, cancelled their orders with Interfor R environment that Tofi no is famous for and she moved in. because of Bonny and Dan’s work. west coast adventure It was 1988 and seas of grain had done little to prepare her for her future lifestyle. Bonny’s love of wild places doesn’t stop at protecting them, she also loves to enjoy them. In one epic sounding year she did a 60 She moved into a cabin a short paddle from town. Thing day trip around Gwaii Haanas, better known as the Queen Charlotte P is she had only paddled a sea kayak once before. She Islands and paddled the Lower Stikine river in northern British Columbia over 21 days. Bonny has paddled from Cape Scott to WILD ISLE R Tofi no, and she spent 30 days exploring Clayoquot Sound by kayak. In a kayak is where Bonny is trying to make a difference today. She is one of the few women instructors of sea kayak leadership courses, O and she runs women-only sea kayak trips, both of which make the sport more accessible to women. “Women have a different approach F to sports. In an all-women group, women can feel free to take risks without being judged”.

I Always fi ghting for what she believes in, Bonny has tried to bring change to her corner of the world. She practices what she preaches. All Bonny seems to want is a sustainable world. She wants eco- L Bonny Glambeck commuting off the West Coast tourism companies to be responsible and conscious of their effect Photos: Dan Lewis on wildlife and wild places. And she wants the E Do you know a Wild Islander? same from logging companies. “We need to protect We are always looking for interesting people from Vancouver Island who explore and enjoy what’s left of the ancient forest, and allow people our backyard. If you know someone who would make a good Wild Islander, let us know. to make a living here without destroying the Send us a fax at (250) 285-2236, email at [email protected], or call us at (250) 285-2234. environment.” WI www.wildisle.ca 11 Riding the lifts Winter snows have melted away revealing Mt Washington’s newest attraction, single-track mountain bike trails with the convenience of lift access and all the resort’s summer amenities....

The air at Mt. Washington sounds differnt this year. Chains are rattling, bikers shout, and metal meats rock and root. Clouds of dust errupt here and there and colors fl ash through the trees. What’is going on? you might ask. Mountain biking is what’s going on. Over the last few years, but especially this spring the ski hill has been cutting trails not runs. The trails fall from the top twisting and turning through the terrain skiers and snowboarders shred all winter. And like their winter relatives the fat tire crowd don’t hike and pedal to the top, they ride in style. The sightseeing lift carries mountain bikers and their bikes to the top of the mountain in a breath catching, snack grabbing fi fteen minutes. At the top views of the peaks in Strathcona Provincial Park can be enjoyed before heading down a suspension testing downhill roller coaster ride. Names like ‘Crusher’ and ‘Monster Mile’ are sure to strike fear in to the hearts of the meek. Indeed these high profi le, neo-classics live up to everything one would expect of downhill single-track: steep drops, dire landings and

3

4 8

7 3 8 9 5 6 9 2 3

1 1

1 DISCOVERY LAKE TRAIL (3km) 4 SUN ROAD (0.8KM) 7 HIDDEN ALLEY 2 REVERSE TRAVERSE 5 FREEWAY (1.7KM) 8 MONSTER MILE

Tel. 250-338-1386 3 ACCESS ROADS 6 BREAK-A-DAY (0.5KM) 9 CRUSHER 12 www.wildisle.ca single-track thrills and spills at mt washington fast straight aways. But beyond the fall line Mt Washington has some great trails for the intermediate and moderate rider and the potential for much much more. With this seasons expansion there are plenty of trails to enjoy. The expanded trail menu includes: access roads topped with rocks and gravel, served with lots of speed; single-track cooked in the sun smothered in rocks and roots, with cedar, fi r and pine on the side. Last but not least a two-course slalom, jumps and banked corners included. All meals served with mud, dust, rocks and spills. And all meals can be washed down with a pint in Fat Teddy’s at the base of the lift. What more could a fat tire enthusiast ask for? WI Wild Isle best bets Best steeps Best high speed Monster Mile, sit back, Discovery Lake to base of hold on and don’t let go of Red Chair on Discovery the breaks Road trail. Want to cruise? This is Mt. Best beginner fun Washington’s answer to Access road from the top. the autobahn Top to bottom fi re road, Best hidden stash

www.wildisle.ca need we say more?

• Single track to and passed Best survival strategy Discovery Lake, mellow Wear armour. Exposed cross country riding at rock, roots and logs could its best with the added easily mess up anyones attraction of views into epidermis. Strathcona Provincial Park.

Best Lazy Apres Activity Best Apres activity Giant chess at the base Frisbee golf on the new lodge, or drinks on the Mt. Washington nine hole deck at Fat Teddy’s. course.

west coast adventure What to bring Adrenaline and courage. Mt. Washington rents dual suspension bikes ($40.00/day or $10/hr) and body armour at the hill.

Where to go

WILD ISLE Follow signs to Mt. Washington, just north of Courtenay, from the Island Highway to the ski hill access road. Drive to the base area parking lots and head for the Eagle Express Scenic Chair Ride. On the way stop in the gift shop and buy a lift ticket for yourself and your bike, $10.50 for a full day, $30 for a family of four. for tire fun www.wildisle.ca fat 13 WILDBy GregISLE Shea In Our Backyard Fanny Bay’s bumpy back yard

A spontaneous decision, a wrong turn and a little bushwhacking leads to adventure in the By Paul Macoun high alpine of the Beaufort Range...

y parents bought a house on Ships I parked on a switchback corner and “The Beaufort MPoint 5 years ago. Since that time I’ve noticed that a trail started from that exact been curious about the peaks that form the spot. A gross misinterpretation of my map western backdrop to this community. The had placed me very near to the end of the Beaufort Range runs from Horne Lake to road, and so I obliviously trundled along the Range runs from Cumberland, and has in its bag of tricks a trail, quite proud of myself for having gotten series of peaks topping over 5000 ft. so far by 9 am. I’m almost embarrassed to admit that it Soon I came across Roaring Creek and, has taken me 5 years to travel the 10 km thanks to a rather haphazard crossing, very Horne Lake to necessary to have a go at climbing them. One nearly bathed in its frigidity. Soon it dawned Friday afternoon in Victoria I found myself on me that something was amiss. The needing a touch of adventure and decided to country looming above me seemed too severe travel up to Fanny Bay. The forecast was for and I consulted my map once again. Out sunny breaks on Saturday, but mostly cloud with Mt. Joan. In with Mt. Curran! Cumberland, and (like all forecasts). They estimated there was I began to look for the spur road that would an 80% chance of precipitation. Perfect. My take me much higher onto the shoulder of goal became a Saturday morning attempt at Mt. Curran. Unfortunately it was nowhere climbing Mt. Joan. The basis for this choice to be found. After 30 minutes of wandering has in its bag of had everything to do with it being the fi rst above the road I decided to forego the road point of interest that my eyes had locked route and instead do as all must do on onto as I unfolded the topo map. Vancouver Island... bushwhack. Up I went I had traveled the logging road before and and soon was pleased to discover a road. I tricks, a series of hence was aware of when to turn off the became displeased when I realized that it main line. Once on the spur road, I realized was the furthest extension of the original that not all things come easily. My original road, and that I hadn’t parked in the right plan had been to drive up the road as high as place after all. I continued up the road, and peaks topping over possible, and then punch up from there. As with a new insight into my position on the the water bars grew in depth and my bumper shoulder realized that the most appropriate grated on the road with increasing frequency, means of attaining the summit was straight I decided to be prudent and park the vehicle. up (how surprising!). I climbed through ‘Prudent’ is a word I’ve discovered since clearcut and slash, and eventually found my 5000 ft.” recently turning 30. way onto some rocky ledges. What are those

14 www.wildisle.ca The Beaufort Range

nasty little burrs that cover the ground in these areas? Further ascent eventually led me to the road I was originally seeking, which quickly propelled me up high onto the shoulder leading to Mt Curran. I hit the snow line and followed fl agging tape up the ridge and into a portion of the forest that had burned. The eerie grey carcasses of burnt trees were a dramatic foreground to the panorama that now presented itself to me. Mt Joan, The SquareHead and Mt. Hal were all looking down on me in their glory. Far below, I caught sight of a magnifi cent cascading waterfall that surely plummeted hundreds of feet on its way to join Roaring Creek. I decided to forego the road route and instead do as all must do on Vancouver

www.wildisle.ca Island... bushwhack.

• The sun and clouds made ever-shifting patterns on the surrounding slopes of snow. I pressed on and was soon free of the burn (and all trees for that matter). The view over Fanny Bay and across Denman and Hornby was something to behold, as was the view south to Mt. Hal, and west to Mt Joan. I hadn’t realized until this point how much open space there was amongst these mountains. From the beach at Ships Point they looked so close together, almost two- west coast adventure dimensional. As I topped out on Mt Curran the weather turned foul. I did manage a glimpse of a thin ridge that ran from the western fl ank of Mt. Curran to the massive rock top of The SquareHead, and made a mental note that one could do a round trip Above, Fanny Bay’s unheated back yard swimming hole, Beaufort Lake, as seen from the pool side deck, the Beaufort Range, Wild Isle fi le photo. Opposite page, Hornby and Denman Islands from WILD ISLE from Mt. Curran to Mt. Joan, and down, via this ridge. I kicked back near the summit and the summit of Mt. Curran, photo by Paul Macoun. was rewarded with another patch of blue sky, and with it, intense heat from the sun. Further down the road I ran headlong into into the wilderness. I turned up Lenny This, combined with falling snow, made for an army of small birds (I have no idea what Kravitz on the stereo and began to mentally a memorable mountain moment. they were). They quickly dispersed, which count the cold ones I had stockpiled in the More views of Fanny Bay, Denman and left me cursing my lack of stealth. Further refrigerator. Hornby appeared and I expended the down, I stopped to water the bushes and was remainder of my fi lm trying to capture it scared half to death by a grouse beating his all. A cold gust of wind reminded me of wings directly behind me. I could imagine Information the inhospitable nature of mountains and his friends howling in fi ts of laughter in the Access: Horne-Bowser Forest Service spurred me on to descend. Once back in the bushes. Road. Heading north on the Island Highway, burn I was graced by the presence of no That familiar feeling of relief soon followed turn left at the Fanny Bay turn off and less than 3 eagles. They fl oated effortlessly as I rounded the next turn and caught sight follow the logging road approximately 14 on the updrafts. I found my way back to of my truck. The journey down was again km to the spur road on the shoulder of the pseudo-road and made a quick descent fi lled with spectacular bumper scraping, plus Mt. Curran. The spur road is on the right, to Roaring Creek. This road had been my a harrowing log-across-the-road experience to just before the second bridge over Rosewall intended ascent route and as I lumbered boot. As I bumped along on the main, a Creek. down I lamented about how easy an ascent it black bear emerged from the bushes to say could have been. hello and then turned tail and punched back Map: Horne Lake 92 F/7 www.wildisle.ca 15 2001 WEST COAST ADVENTURE RESORTS AND LODGES DIRECTORY Tsa-Kwa-Luten Lodge, Qyadra Island Qyadra Lodge, Tsa-Kwa-Luten

Heriot Bay Inn Knight Inlet Lodge Strathcona Park Lodge

A historic resort with a wide variety of Ever Wanted To See A Grizzly Bear? How Canoeing, kayaking, rock climbing, orien- accommodation and services, including B&B About Pods of Playing Orcas? Well You’ve teering, hi/low ropes course, zip line, sail- rooms, housekeeping cottages, RV and tent Come To The Right Place! Maximum 10 boat, motor boat rental on property. Off site campsites with complete hook-ups, a full guests, 5 Bedrooms with sinks, twin or trips include mountian climbing, sea kaya- service marina, kayak, canoe and bike rentals, double beds, 3 Bathrooms, hot tub. Open king, ocean canoeing, hiking west coast of a licensed restaurant, neighbourhood sports September to late October. Dungeness crab, Nootka Island, cruising Nootka Sound, well- pub and gift shop. Your base camp for kayak fresh local prawns, salmon, as well as veg- ness vacation, youth camps and renowned tours, hiking, biking and enjoying the peace & etable and meat dishes. Special diets can be leadership training (COLT). 40 km west of beauty of Quadra and the Discovery Islands. looked after. Campbell River on highway 28. Location: Heriot Bay, Quadra Island Tel: 250 334-8858 Tel: 250 286-3122 Tel: 250 285-3322 Fax: 250 285-2708 Fax: 250 334-8858 Fax: 250 286-6010 eMail: [email protected] eMail: [email protected] eMail: [email protected] url: www.heriotbayinn.com url: www.knightinletlodge.com url: www.strathcona.bc.ca Address: Box 100, Heriot Bay, BC V0P 1H0 Address: 3839 Laurel Dr. Royston BC V0R 2V0 Address: Box 2160, Campbell River, B.C. V9W 5C5. Nootka Island Lodge Tsa-Kwa-Luten Lodge

Nootka Island Lodge is the perfect place for Secluded in an 1100 acre forest, all your next outdoor adventure or your fi rst. accommodation features ocean views of Nootka offers fully guided kayaking, zodiac historic Discovery Passage. From this base and fi shing packages. Or bring your own you can enjoy walking, hiking, biking, boat, we have room & meal packages. kayaking, fi shing, marine wildlife tours, art Location: 1 mile north of Friendly Cove galleries and shops. Tel: 250 752-0455 Fax: 250 752-0466 Location: #1 Lighthouse Rd, Quadra Island Hidden Cove Lodge eMail: [email protected] Tel: 250 285-2042 Fax: 250 285-2532 url: www.nootkaisland.com eMail: [email protected] Ocean front cedar lodge & cottages. Secluded Address: 1322 Pintail Dr. Parksville BC V9P 2A2 url: www.capemudgeresort.bc.ca bay surrounded by forest. Licensed dining. Address: Box 581 Quathiaski Cove, BC V0P 1N0 Rooms with private baths. Wildlife and birds. Killer whale tours, kayaking, guided saltwa- ter fi shing, heli-ventures & heli-fi shing. Location: Lewis Point, Telegraph Cove Tel: 250 956-3916 Fax: 250 956-3916 eMail: [email protected] url: www.hiddencovelodge.com Address: Box 258, Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0

16 www.wildisle.ca First in a series of Wild Isle Regional Profi les. Nootka www.wildisle.ca

• west coast adventure emote coastal hikes, white sand beaches, native burial Traditional home of the caves, epic surfi ng, pristine old growth forest, tons of unexplored islands, world famous sea kayaking, endless Mowachaht First Nation, Nootka spelunking potential, solid rock climbing and colourful diving, not to mention tons of wildlife, the Nootka area Sound was the site of Captain on Vancouver Island’s western shore is full of adventures Cook’s land fall on North

WILD ISLE waiting to be discovered. Up until recently the communities and businesses in the area rarely saw America’s west coast in 1778. adventureR sports enthusiasts. The economy powered by the logging industry Today recreationalists visit from and world famous salmon runs took little notice of adventure tourism, but business is changing. Mills are closing, fi shing around the world to hike, fi sh, surf restricted and so the economies have begun to embrace and explore... new business. First came the sea kayakers. Nootka Sound, the Nuchatlitz, Kyuquot and the Brooks Pennisula all became the places to go for sea kayakers looking for pristine and wild trips on the exposed outer coast. Around the same time the diversity and colour of sea life found below the water attract divers. Now the communities of Zeballos, Tahsis and Gold River are opening their arms to any and all tourism. They are excited to share the untapped natural adventures waiting to be explored in their back yards.

www.wildisle.ca Sound17 Wild Isle Regional Profi le- Nootka Sound

ishing has been and still is the biggest of all sorts can be found in the nearby draw to Gold River’s backyard, says mountains. Old logging roads and trails FGil Sampson, economic development provide tons of mountain bike and hiking coordinator for the village. But with a few options. lean fi shing years and the closure of the mill Access to the Muchalat Inlet which feeds the village has been forced to look to other right into historic Nootka Sound is a few industries. minutes from town. Boat and air transport “The idea of diversifi cation has been leaves from the deep water harbour to almost embraced here as a necessity,” he said. “This any destination on the west coast. should have been happening for 30 years, The Gold River runs parallel to the harbour but no one was thinking that far ahead. access. The river and its tributaries offers Necessity is the mother of all inventions.” challenging paddling for all abilities. And last Sampson says with the mill closure the but not least, Gold River is home to arguably air is cleaner which is better for adventure the best caving in Canada. There are plenty tourism. “This has spurred more interest in of undeveloped caves in the surrounding using the natural beauty of the area to spur mountains and probably some that have tourism.” never been explored. Sampson says endless possibilities for visitors will encourage longer stays. “We want to take day trippers and have them stay for maybe two or three days.”

To that end the Gold River Chamber Gold River defi nitely has its share of of Commerce organized the fi rst annual natural beauty. The town is a few minutes Burning Boot Festival in conjunction with down the road from Strathcona Provincial the Great Walk. Festivities were arranged Park’s snow capped peaks, raging rivers for the night before and the day after North pristine forest and hiking. Rock climbing America’s longest walk. Peppercorn Trail Motel & RV Park Gold River, BC www.peppercorn.bc.ca [email protected] (250) 283-2443

18 www.wildisle.ca Fair Harbour Woss & Highway 19 Woss & Highway 19

Haihte Range (Rugged Mtn) IR 7  Rugged Point Zeballos

IR 15 Mt Leiner Tahsis

IR 16 Mt Alava Muchalat IR 17
Mt Bate Port Eliza Lake
IR 10 Leiner
River Esperanza Inlet
Garden IR 9 Conuma Pk
Point Upana Caves IR 6
IR 3 Campbell River

 & Highway 19 Mt Santiago Conuma River IR 5
N u c IR 14 hatl itz Inlet Nootka Island Ewart Gold
Lake
Cougar Creek River d fish Lake n ou raw a S C tk Bligh oo

www.wildisle.ca N Island

• Nootka Sound Highlights
Spainish Pilot Group
Forest Service campgrounds • Wildlife galore

Yuquot Backcountry Camp (Friendly Cove) • Nootka Island Trail  Point of Interest

• World class fishing Photos: Clockwise Left- Lighthouse at Friendly Cove. Waterfall spills through the karst landscape at Upana Caves. • Vibrant scuba diving Sea kayak touring in the protected waters around Nuchatlitz.

west coast adventure • Yuquot (Friendly Cove) • Protected and exposed sea kayaking • Upana Caves and a “hole” lot of other spelunking • Hiking and climbing in Strathcona Park borders Nootka Sound WILD ISLE • Bligh Island, Spanish Pilot Group, Nuchatlitz, Catala Island Marine Parks

OutdoorOutdoor AdventuresAdventures inin HistoricHistoric NootkaNootka SoundSound THIS WORLD RENOWNED LODGE HAS IT ALL 2 NIGHTS, 3 DAYS Salmon Fishing Packages $999 Have your own boat or kayak? Guided Kayak Tour $699 Nootka offers Guided Zodiac Tour $699 Room & Meal Packages ALL PACKAGES INCLUDE Round Trip Air Fare from Gold River, BC, Room, Meals, Phone: Oct. to April (250) 752-0455 Guide and all the equipment email: [email protected] needed for your adventure www.nootkaisland.com www.wildisle.ca 19 Wild Isle Regional Profi le- Nootka Sound

t the fi nish line to the Great Walk, in Tahsis, the mill has yet to close, Aoffi cially. Many of the village’s residents are still waiting to discover the future of their job, before they embrace any new industries. “A lot of people are uncertain about their future here,” said Paul Edgington, chief administrative offi cer for the village of Tahsis. “Some are excited, others are worried about current trend with the logging industry.” Tourism infrastructure has yet to be fully The town of Tahsis has several operators that run trips from the village’s harbour to a variety of embraced but there are several operators west coast locations, including right off the dock, fi le phto. making a go of it. One of those is Nootka Fishing Co. “We are are one proposal that “Tahsis is the most centrally located of trying to accommodate hikers and kayakers Edgington is excited about. all the Nootka area communities.” Nootka, as part of our diversifying,” said Kathrine “Getting to the top of one of the peaks Brooks, Hesquiat, Kyuquot, Nuchatlitz, they Ridley, Nootka Fishing Co. owner. The around here is as good as summitting a read like a best bet list for sea kayaking and company used to only cater to the once great mountain anywhere. You can see from they are all within an easy day boat ride from fi shing in the area. But since the fi shery Estevan Point to Catala Island.” Tahsis. That fact alone makes the village declined she has been forced to broaden her During the interview the sun was shining one of the best sea kayaking hubs going. customer base. and the wind blowing. Edgington wanted to Tahsis has adventure tourism potential That is something Edgington is pushing be windsurfi ng. “It’s not as good as a Woss spilling out of town onto the new heli pad for. He said that the future of the mill, wind but we get a nice wind here, which that Edgington hopes will one day be a shrine which has played a game of open and shut makes for great windsurfi ng.” for heli-skiers. But it also has culture. for months, will be decided in the next Right off the dock, the diving is world In the not so distant past this was few months. When that happens he sees class. Nootka Sound Charters has hosted the gathering place for a whole different the community becoming more receptive to some of the world’s best divers. They come winter culture. The First Nations people diversifi cation. to see the six gill sharks which roam Tahsis congregated near the present day village to “When the uncertainty is resolved, by harbour and nearby waters, or to dive the fi sh the huge winter salmon runs on local the end of the year, village council, with reefs and walls that are rife with colourful rivers. They traded along the Tahsis-Woss residents and industry, will put in place a sea life. The six gills are so unusual that a corridor with other Island First Nations. sound economy. Tourism will be one of the National Geographic camera crew came to And when the Europeans fi rst landed, also parts, as will a strong shell fi sh industry and Tahsis to fi lm the 14 foot fi sh for a Discovery in the Tahsis area, they traded with them innovative power generating.” Channel special. too. Today the remains of fi sh canneries, Tourism diversifi cation can take many Long and varied caves abound, including plants and processing factories are all that forms in Tahsis, Edgington says. There the Thanksgiving Cave System and Wyameer remain and they are disappearing fast. is tons of cultural and adventure tourism park caves. “Tahsis is to caving like Squamish “You can go out to these facilities and options right in Tahsis. Hiking trails is to rock climbing,” Edgington said. the wilderness has almost completely erased

Quiet, Safe and Unspoiled MAIL-IN COUPON: For more information, Spectacular scuba diving, Sheltered kayaking Tahsis Whale watching, Sport Fishing - chinook and steelhead Tel: 250 934-6667 Fax: 250-934-6679 Exhilarating hikes, on the historic Nootka Island trail email: [email protected] and on The Great Walk, Marine historic tours Camping and eco-adventures land and marine access Box 278, Tahsis, BC, V0P 1X0

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20 www.wildisle.ca them,” Edgington said. “You know what that sprung up near by. Today the mines pass through. Many are on their way to was there and now it is gone.” are gone but the stores still have false fronts sea kayak destinations like Kyuquot and the Much like the driving forces of town, reminiscent of the boom days. Nuchatlitz. These archipelagos are home to industry once ruled but now nature, and the From its wild west like beginnings the marine creatures, like grey whales and sea money that comes with it are taking over. town has changed, the roads are now paved otters and lonely beaches and secluded coves and the town cleaned up, but it is still the wait to be discovered around every corner. frontier of Western Canada. Even though most tourist don’t stay in “This is a quaint, quiet, original town,” town, sea kayak traffi c has been increasing says Roland Shanks, editor of the local rapidly says Rat River Marine Services newspaper and member of the Zeballos board owner Greg Brooks. He has operated a of trade. “We have the best water in B.C.” It charter boat in the area for 30 years. “In the is pumped straight from the ground into the 70’s there were no kayakers, it was strictly houses. fi shing and logging. But every year we pick The backcountry, literally out the back up a few more kayakers.” Sand, sun and surf are never far from any doors of the town’s residents, complements Although Zeballos is still a resource communities in the Nootka area, fi le photo. the towns attractions, says Shanks. “We industry town at heart tourism operators are have access to the west coast by a road fi nding a way to attract tourists looking for connection with Fair Harbour and Kyuquot. something off the beaten path. But Shanks ZEBALLOS Operators run people out to the Nootka says growth must come slowly. “It is best that Trail, or other spots on the coast and there is it happens slowly,” he said. “We wouldn’t be lots of wildlife” able to cope with a fl ood of tourists.” ulture wise it doesn’t much quirkier The inlet is a year round wild life watchers than the most northern of the Nootka paradise. Trumpeter swans visit in the It is not very likely that Zeballos, or Gold Ccommunities than Zeballos. For people fall and bears visit the village searching River and Tahsis, will be inundated with looking for something different and to get for migrating salmon and other tidbits all tourists this summer or even a few summers away from the crowds Zeballos may be just year long. For more adventurous types, from now. That is for the best, since the the ticket. Although logging is still the main Shanks says, there is tons of potential for biggest attraction of this area is that it hasn’t

www.wildisle.ca industry there, adventure opportunities are river kayaking and climbing. And like been “done.” There isn’t rows of hotels, tons

• almost as numerous as the trees. its neighbouring communities the caving of operators and people everywhere. The The tiny community is about as quaint and potential has barely been realized. trails are almost empty, beaches are vacant, interesting as one could ask for. The town Because local hotel operators are more there are empty rivers, and caves to explore popped up during one of the last modern day focused on forestry which brings in up to not to mention all that coast line. gold rushes. During the depression miners 80 per cent of their business, says Shanks, For people who have “been there, done fl ocked to the town to work in the 30 mines most tourists do not stop in Zeballos but that,” the Nootka area is calling. WI Tatchu Adventures MASON'S MOTOR LODGE Old World Charm New World Comforts west coast adventure • Deluxe Accommodation • Kitchenettes • Reasonable Rates • Open Year Round • Fishing, Kayaking • Sightseeing Charters WILD ISLE Phone (250) 761-4044 Fax (250) 761-4074 Hike the www.masonslodge.zeballos.bc.ca [email protected] Nootka Island Trail Toll Free: 1-888 895-2011 ZEBALLOS TOURS Your Transport to The Hiking & EXPEDITIONS & KAYAKS RENTALS Surfing Experience of Your Life! www.zeballoskayaks.com tch TRIP a u T PLANNING

Nootka, Kyuquot, Bunsbys, Brooks TRANSPORT . A c Paddle the breathtaking d n I ve Tahsis • Vancouver Island West Coast of Vancouver Island ntures BC's Historic Nootka Sound (250) 761-4137 [email protected] www.wildisle.ca 21 Access to the wild west coast of Nootka Island and Brooks Peninsula is a tricky affair. Luckily help is at hand to make surfi ng remote Pacifi c breaks or hiking the Nootka Trail easier than you might think. Give a call to Clay Hunting at TATCHU ADVENTURES ©Philip Stone Wild Isle Regional Profi le- Nootka Sound

In operation since 1999, Tatchu’s clientle come primarily from the U.S. Pacifi c-North-West and South West B.C. As the word spreads Clay is steadily receiving inquiries from further afi eld. “surfers are a ©Aaron Jackson ©Aaron close-knit bunch” Clay relates “I’m building a name for myself in the surfi ng world as the person on the North-Island who can get surfers lipping through the narrow pass lined with rainbow hues out to these remote breaks and beaches”. No doubt about it Clay of countless starfi sh into the placid waters of Inferno Bay knows this section of the coast. Having logged over 2,300 working there is the sensation of being carried back through time hours on tugs, log salvaging and now with Tatchu Adventures, Clay to when Nootka people plied the tranquil water by canoe. has built up a wealth of knowledge essential for working these wild NotS so today, we are propelled by twin Honda 4-strokes that waters. hum respectfully at the stern of a sturdy Polaris Infaltable The rigid-hull infl atable is the perfect craft for supporting remote as we enter the still lagoon. Our skipper is Clay Hunting, surfi ng. Large enough to transport fi ve to six people and gear in owner operator of Tatchu Adventures based out of Tahsis, B.C. comfort the Polaris can pull right onto the beach for drop off and From this tiny coastal hamlet Hunting pickup. When its time to hit the waves transports adventure seeking hikers, surfers “They’re on the internet with the Clay motors surfers out to the reef and and beachcombers to the spectacular outer whole swell period for the entire point breaks and stands watch while the west coast of Vancouver Island. Pacifi c fi gured out and when its right group and guide work the surf. Ranging from the Brooks Peninsula and Selling surf access has its challenges. Kyuquot to the north and Nootka Island they call and want to go” Surfers are looking for particular wave and Hesquiat Peninsula to the south Clay’s conditions, the beginners want a waist domain is truly one of the fi nest working environments imaginable. high swell typical of July-August whereas the hard cores are praying Wild Isle joined Tatchu Adventures for a tour around Nootka Island for storms and prefer the traditionally shoulder seasons of March- to fi nd out more about the ebb and fl ow of operating an adventure April and Septeber-October. “They’re on the internet with the whole tourism business on the wild west coast. swell period for the entire Pacifi c fi gured out and when its right they 22 www.wildisle.ca ©Philip Stone

call and want to go” says Clay. “Some groups It’s hard to sell a wilderness experience in will book but leave the dates fl exible within a Clayoquot when for example there might be

certain window to allow for wave conditions over a hundred people on the beach at Vargas Jackson ©Aaron to build. Its not like most businesses where Island” he says. “Better management is what you take the customers MasterCard number is called for. I don’t know what form that and expect them on a certain date. Its more might take but simply pushing more and like a call and ‘we’re coming tomorrow!’” more people up the coast doesn’t seem to be As well as supporting surf groups Tatchu the right answer” Adventures transports hikers to the On the subject of land management and increasingly popular Nootka Trail. “About operations permits Clay has mixed feelings. 60 per cent of my business is surf related, “I’ve had great expeiences with BC Parks” www.wildisle.ca 30 per cent hikers and the remaining 10 he says “I hold commercial backcountry • per cent campers, beachcombers and people operator’s permits for Nuchaltlitz etc.. and just looking to get out somewhere quiet and have always had postitive dealings with beautiful” says Clay. Parks” On Crown land though Hunting The growth in popularity of the Nootka feels British Columbia Lands and Assets Trail and Calvin Creek in particular has not Corporation (BCAL) are stifl ing business. been without its downside though. In just a “They don’t seem interested unless you are few short years the outside of Nootka has a major company and their fees refl ect that. gone from being an unknown rarely visited It is impossible for a small business to buy place to being one of the most desirable spots into their program, I say let small business on Vancouver Island’s west coast to visit. grow”. Access will always be a challenge but on a And grow is what Tatchu Adventures is Photos clockwise from inset left: west coast adventure busy day last summer there were as many doing. In an area with broad appeal and Sep Bruhwiler. world-class opportunities for a variety of as 60 people on the beach at Calvin Creek. Ray Smith and Clay Hunting off Bajo Pt. A couple of helicopters a day and maybe a outdoor activities Tatchu’s services are in plane load or two, this combined with hikers demand. To fi nd out more about transport Screaming across Nootka Sound. and surfers are making Bajo a busy spot. to Nootka Island, Learn to Surf camps and Peter Axhorn, one last look at surf day’s end. Clay attributes this to overfl ow from Guided Remote Surf Trips, call Clay Hunting Clay Huntin. Tofi no and the Pacifi c Rim. “Their beaches toll free at 1-888-895-2011 WILD ISLE are getting busier and busier all the time. The ultimate surf tool & ultimate cool. This shot and inset at left, ©Aaron Jackson. This shot and inset at left, ©Aaron ©Philip Stone www.wildisle.ca 23 REVIEWS Lightweight Stoves MSR - POCKET COLEMAN - ROCKET™ EXPONENT XTREME™ A familiar design with a separate stove unit connected to the fuel canister by a fl exible hose. The Coleman Exponent Xtreme™ ($75 US) is a sturdy and stable stove. It boils water faster than you can open a package of noodles and has the distinct advantage of keeping the pot on top of the stove. As one would expect with the propane-butane fuel mix simmering is a dream and as with the Pocket Rocket there are The MSR Pocket Rocket™ no fussy priming or refuelling (retail $44.50 CAN) comes in issues. its own sturdy triangular plastic Weight wise we had no case which defi es the imagination problem with the burner itself as to how a stove could fi t. but the chunky valve/fuel Once removed from the case the canister connector seems Pocket Rocket is a delight to inordinately bulky. The bulk behold. This stove is for the true has a use however. In cold lightweight afi cionado at a scant temperatures canister fuel bottles 86g (3oz). have a reputation as unreliable. The setup is very The bulky valve was created by straightforward, simply screw Coleman’s engineers to combat Ryan Stuart enjoying the user friendly MSR - Pocket Rocket, fi le photo. the stove on to the proprietary the problem. In addition the teeth t was with a heavy heart that The one thing all these new fuel canister, open the valve and on the valve that bite and screw the faithful MSR Whisperlite stoves have in common is a non light. The Rocket boils a full pot onto the fuel canister are small Iwas passed over while refi llable fuel canisters. of water in no time at all. The and made of plastic. packing for an early summer ski No more funneling white gas manufacturer claims 1 litre in trip. This time we’d be sporting into a MSR fuel bottle. Instead a 3.5 minutes. Frankly we found a fl eet of stoves to put them quick stop at the nearest outdoor no need to test their claim, it’s through their paces and report store for one of the light weight, fast! back to Wild Isle readers. iso-propane fuel canisters, and But what about the low end? The Whisperlite has dominated you’re off. If you have a penchant for the west coast outdoor stove But that convenience and cream sauces in the backcountry, niche for many years with only light weight comes at a price. no problem. The Pocket Rocket simmers down when required a passing threat from the Most canisters cost between $5 The canister itself is slim and delivering a modest, even fl ame, infamous Coleman Peak 1. The and $10, and last between one streamlined like the old white souffl é anyone? more recent addition of a self and two hours. Ours lasted two gas ones, making it easy to pack. Where the Pocket Rocket did cleaning jet addressed the only dinners and several brews and But fi nding one was a bit of an fall down was in stability. A serious complaint that workhorse was still fi ring away. When issue. We searched three stores quick look at the stove with a ever seemed to arouse, fi ne tuning the fuel can runs out it the before we found the canister we heavy pot on top and you know an already honed unit. cannister be recycled, but not were looking for. you’re going to have to keep an So what is out there now? In refi lled. Overall both stoves amazed eye on it. Good on snow though. the never ending quest to have You might argue that canister us with their light weight, Finding MSR fuel canisters is the lightest gear available, stove stoves are only convenient if one convenience, versatility and fast hard to do. One store owner manufacturers have come to the plans well ahead. boiling time. But, with all new said there had been problems banquet with a whole host of Hunting for an outdoor store things the required canister fuel importing them but that seems to new lightweight stoves. that carries your fuel canister, system will take a little time to have been resolved. One bright Some are tiny and fi t into the and is open when you are leaving get used to. WI palm of a hand, others are larger town isn’t as convenient as spot with the Pocket Rocket is To enter to win a Coleman- but equally light wight due to stopping at almost any gas station compatibility. It works with Exponent Xtreme, subscribe lightweight metals. for white gas. several other fuel canisters. to Wild Isle on page 25. 24 www.wildisle.ca New SealLine™ Footbrace Wins Award Next Time The SmartTrack Control entries from around the world. manufacturer. And it’s retro-fi ttable October-December System manufactured by SealLine, Entries were scored on fi ve to old boats. Effi ciency and a division of Cascade Designs, Inc., criteria of industrial design elegance are beautiful.” -West Coast ski & has been awarded an International excellence: design innovation; SealLine SmartTrack and all 2001 Industrial Design Excellence benefi t to the user; benefi t to other brands manufactured by snowboard guide, Award, IDEA, sponsored by the the client/business; ecological Cascade Designs (including Therm- Industrial Designers Society of responsibility; and appropriate a-Rest, the original self-infl ating -Comox Valley America, and Business Week aesthetics and appeal. camping mattress) are available on regional profile, magazine. Manatee Design of The SealLine SmartTrack www.cascadedesigns.com. Mount Vernon, Washington, Control System is an advanced Descriptions and images of all 2001 -News from the local hills, originator of the SmartTrack foot brace and rudder system for IDEA winners can be found on system design, won a Gold Medal in sea kayaks that provides more www.idsa.org. The design award ...and much more. the category of consumer products/ effi ciency, precision, and comfort will be featured in the June 25th sporting goods. while paddling. It features fi xed issue of Business Week magazine, The deadline to submit The Industrial Designers foot pedals for safety, comfort, and and on www.businessweek.com. news, views, happenings Society of America, IDSA, is better energy transfer, and a foil Manatee Design may be contacted the voice of industrial design. blade hydrodynamically designed through www.manateedesign.com. or stories, or Winning the IDEA is a for less drag and more effi cient to take advantage of distinction unlike any other, turning. Gavin Ivester, IDSA advertising oppurtunities for branding a design as the very juror, wrote of SmartTrack: “It best in the business. A jury takes real guts to aggressively of 18 non-affi liated designers innovate in a conservative sport Oct-Dec 2001 is Friday, selected this year’s IDEA winner like kayaking. But by redefi ning the September 14. during two-and-a-half days of basic ergonomic scheme used in the intense evaluation and debate. foot-operated steering system, the Contact us at: www.wildisle.ca Encompassing 11 categories from designers have radically improved

• [email protected] More effi cient, precise and business equipment to furniture effi ciency and comfort…the design Tel: 250-285-2234 confortable, no wonder it won and medical devices, the winning shows rigorous attention to detail Fax: 250-285-2236 designs were chosen from 1,260 benefi ting both the user and awards. WILDWILD ISLEISLEISLE TheThe Islands'Islands' AdventureAdventure MagazineMagazine west coast adventure Subscribe and Win Subscribe to Wild Isle and be entered to win a Coleman - Exponent Xtreme™ super lightweight camping stove. Check out our review of the stove in REVIEWS on page 24. WILD ISLE

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Subscribe to Wild Isle and be entered to win a Coleman - Exponent Xtreme™ super WILDWILD ISLEISLEISLE lightweight camping stove. Check out our review of the stove in REVIEWS on page 24. The Islands' Adventure Magazine The Islands' Adventure Magazine

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