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This seminal volume defines a new theoretical terroir by addressing the complex issue of geographical indicators on a global scale, tackling the multiple ways in which GIs have been used (and misused) around the world. —Lawrence Busch, University Distinguished Professor Emeritus, Michigan State University, USA This volume engages critically with ideas, grounded practices, and effects of geographic indicators applied to food. In problematizing the concepts of tradition, locale, and market relations, this volume advances a timely critique of the emancipatory power of a broad range of agri-food alternatives. —Steven A. Wolf, President of the International Sociological Association Research Committee on Sociology of agriculture and Food (RC-40) and Associate Professor at Cornell University, USA This excellent book provides readers with an insightful analysis of the critical and too often neglected issue of the actual impact of Geographical Indication. I highly recommend it to readers who wish to understand the desirable and undesirable consequences engendered by the implementation of Geographical Indication. —Andrea Marescotti, PhD, Associate Professor of Agri-Food Economics, Department of Economics and Management University of Florence, Italy This book takes a post-industrial view of Geographical Indications in global markets, providing empirical basis for readers to question whether various country contexts allow this policy framework to achieve hoped-for ideals, namely rural development, heritage protections, and protection of biodiversity. —Dominique Barjolle, Senior Researcher and Lecturer, Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETHZ), Agroecosystem Group Geographical Indication and Global Agri-food This book addresses the relevance of geographical indication (GI) as a tool for local and socioeconomic development and democratization of agri-food, with case studies from Asia, Europe and the Americas. A GI is a sign used on products that have a specific geographical origin and possess a reputation or qualities that are due to that origin. It provides a way for businesses to not only leverage the value of their geographically unique products but also inform and attract consumers. A highly contested topic, GI is praised as a tool for the revitalization of agricultural communities while also criticized for being an instrument exploited by global corporate forces to promote their interests. There are concerns that the promotion of GI may hamper the establishment of democratic forms of development. The contributing authors address this topic by offering theoretically informed investigations of GI from around the world. The book includes case studies that analyze green tea in Japan, olive oil in Turkey, dried fish in Norway, French wine and Mexican Mezcal. It also places GI in the broader context of the evolution and trends of agri-food under neoliberal globalization. The book will be of interest to researchers, policymakers and students in agri-food studies, sociology of food and agriculture, geography, agricultural and rural economics, environmental and intellectual property law and social development. Alessandro Bonanno is Texas State University System Regents’ professor and distinguished professor of sociology at Sam Houston State University, US. Kae Sekine is associate professor of economics at Aichi Gakuin University, Japan. Hart N. Feuer is junior associate professor of rural sociology at Kyoto University, Japan. Other books in the Earthscan Food and Agriculture Series Organic Food and Farming in China Top-down and Bottom-up Ecological Initiatives Steffanie Scott, Zhenzhong Si, Theresa Schumilas and Aijuan Chen Farming, Food and Nature A Sustainable Future for Animals, People and the Environment Edited by Joyce D’Silva and Carol McKenna Governing Sustainable Seafood Peter Oosterveer and Simon Bush Farming Systems and Food Security in Africa Priorities for Science and Policy Under Global Change Edited by John Dixon, Dennis P. Garrity, Jean-Marc Boffa, Timothy Olalekan Williams, Tilahun Amede with Christopher Auricht, Rosemary Lott and George Mburathi Consumers, Meat and Animal Products Policies, Regulations and Marketing Terence J. Centner Gender, Agriculture and Agrarian Transformations Changing Relations in Africa, Latin America and Asia Edited by Carolyn E. Sachs A Global Corporate Trust for Agroecological Integrity New Agriculture in a World of Legitimate Eco-states John W. Head Geographical Indication and Global Agri-Food Development and Democratization Edited by Alessandro Bonanno, Kae Sekine and Hart N. Feuer For further details, please visit the series page on the Routledge website: www. routledge.com/books/series/ECEFA/ Geographical Indication and Global Agri-Food Development and Democratization Edited by Alessandro Bonanno, Kae Sekine and Hart N. Feuer First published 2020 by Routledge 2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN and by Routledge 52 Vanderbilt Avenue, New York, NY 10017 Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business © 2020 selection and editorial matter, Alessandro Bonanno, Kae Sekine and Hart N. Feuer; individual chapters, the contributors The right of Alessandro Bonanno, Kae Sekine and Hart N. Feuer to be identified as the authors of the editorial material, and of the authors for their individual chapters, has been asserted in accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers. Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe. British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data A catalog record for this book has been requested ISBN: 978-1-138-60047-8 (hbk) ISBN: 978-0-429-47090-5 (ebk) Typeset in Bembo by Apex CoVantage, LLC Contents Acknowledgments x List of contributors xi Introduction 1 ALESSANDRO BONANNO, KAE SEKINE AND HART N. FEUER PART I Theoretical assumptions 21 1 Geographical indication in agri-food and its role in the global neoliberal era: a theoretical analysis 23 ALESSANDRO BONANNO PART II The Asian context 37 2 Geographical indications out of context and in vogue: the awkward embrace of European heritage agricultural protections in Asia 39 HART N. FEUER 3 The impact of geographical indications on the power relations between producers and agri-food corporations: a case of powdered green tea matcha in Japan 54 KAE SEKINE 4 Provenance for whom? A comparative analysis of geographical indications in the European Union and Indonesia 70 CINZIA PIATTI AND ANGGA DWIARTAMA viii Contents PART III Cases from Europe 85 5 How to use geographical indication for the democratization of agricultural production: a comparative analysis of geographical indication rent-seeking strategies in Turkey 87 DERYA NIZAM 6 Geographical indications – a double-edged tool for food democracy: the cases of the Norwegian geographical indication evolution and the protection of stockfish from Lofoten as cultural adaptation work 100 ATLE WEHN HEGNES AND VIRGINIE AMILIEN 7 The decline of the French label of origin wine 118 ROMAIN BLANCANEAUX 8 Modern resilience of Georgian wine: geographical indications and international exposure 134 ANASTASIYA SHTALTOVNA AND HART N. FEUER PART IV Cases from the Americas 155 9 The multilevel, multi-actor and multifunctional system of geographical indications in Brazil 157 PAULO NIEDERLE, JOHN WILKINSON AND GILBERTO MASCARENHAS 10 The geographical indication of mezcal in Mexico: a tool of exclusion for small producers 173 MARIE-CHRISTINE RENARD AND DAVID RODOLFO DOMÍNGUEZ ARISTA 11 Whose labor counts as craft? Terroir and farm workers in North American craft cider 186 ANELYSE M. WEILER Contents ix 12 The potential role of geographical indication in supporting Indigenous communities in Canada 201 DONNA APPAVOO AND MONIKA KORZUN 13 Conclusions: comprehensive change and the limits and power of sectorial measures 216 ALESSANDRO BONANNO, KAE SEKINE AND HART N. FEUER Index 233 Acknowledgments This volume originated from our previous work on alternative forms of food production and consumption and research on geographical indication. Specifi- cally, this book is based on the sessions that we organized at the XIX World Congress of Sociology held in Toronto, Canada, in July 2018 under the spon- sorship of the Research Committee on Sociology of Agriculture and Food (RC-40). We would like to thank all the members of RC-40 that made these original sessions possible and those who participated in the discussions at these sessions. We would also like to acknowledge the support and comments about GI that Dr. Florence Tartanac and her team at the Nutrition and Food Sys- tem Division of the United Nations (UN) Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) provided to Kae Sekine during her 2018–2019 sabbatical stay at FAO. Our gratitude goes also to the Lotte Foundation of Japan for their financial support enabling us to carry out book preparations in person and refine the book contents at a number of international events. Alessandro Bonanno Kae Sekine Hart N. Feuer Contributors Virginie Amilien
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