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Introduction Altitude 6,462m (21,200ft) / 22 Days / Grade 3B INTRODUCTION Bolivia’s Cordillera Real has been described as the 'Himalaya of the New World' and its If you wish to discuss any highest mountain, Illimani (6,462m), overlooks the highest capital city in the world, La aspect of the expedition or Paz. Illimani is the emblem of the nation and your ultimate target on this expedition. your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone: Straddling the Andes, Bolivia is an unspoilt, little visited country, which boasts very high, yet easily accessible mountains. Bolivian Climber is an exciting, well-balanced itinerary, +44 (0) 114 276 3322 climbing four major peaks, with sections of interesting technical climbing. The expedition is particularly suitable for those who have completed several Alpine PD/PD+ routes or Alternatively, please email Grade 2 expeditions such as Mera Peak, combined with an intermediate Alpine or us via our website: Scottish Winter training course, or equivalent experience. A good head for heights is www.jagged-globe.co.uk needed, along with regular practice of straightforward scrambling. The adventure begins when you land on the Altiplano at 4,200m. It's where the Andes are at their widest and is the world's most extensive area of high plateau outside of Tibet. As always, we take great care to allow adequate acclimatisation so everyone enjoys the climbs feeling fit. You'll immediately descend almost 1,000m to reach your hotel in La Paz. Here, you'll relax for two nights and explore the city to ensure you've begun to acclimatise. Next, you'll return to the Altiplano to explore the highest navigable lake in the world, Lake Titicaca, and spend a few days visiting sites of the Tiahuanaco, pre-Inca civilisation. A boat trip to Islay del Sol is another highlight. 1 Then, more acclimatised and ready to face the mountains, you'll enter a beautiful high mountain cirque at Condoriri. From here you'll climb Pico Austria (5,100m), Pequeño Alpamayo (5,337m) and practice glacier skills. Pequeño Alpamayo is a stunning climb along a well-defined ridge, first involving rock scrambling, then an elegant and exciting snow arête, 50° in parts, leads to the summit. After Pequeño Alpamayo, with good acclimatisation and brushed-up technical skills, you'll head for the bigger objectives of Huayna Potosi (6,094m) and Illimani (6,462m). Both mountains provide excellent glacier and snow climbing, and there's some easy ridge scrambling to reach the high camp on Illimani. The summit ridge on Huayna Potosi is not steep but it is exposed, while Illimani provides a very big summit day with a difficult section of ice climbing (50-55°) at an altitude of nearly 6000m. Previous Bolivian Climber teams have been extremely successful. All climbers usually reach the top of at least one of the 6,000m mountains. Bolivian Climber continues to be one of our most popular expeditions, balancing an action-packed programme of climbing with great times in La Paz, a culturally rich, lively and vibrant city. » Each team is led by a highly-experienced Jagged Globe leader, supported by some of the best mountain guides in Bolivia. See page 8 for why we think a Jagged Globe leader is essential in Bolivia. » We use a 1:3 ratio of leaders/guides to climbers on all summits until Illimani, when it becomes 1:2. » Porters carry group equipment to the high camps. This gives greater flexibility and improves each climber's chance of reaching each summit. » We have a fully staffed office here in the UK. It includes mountaineers who have climbed in Bolivia on a number of occasions and are happy to answer any questions. » You can take advantage of our comprehensive equipment hire service. » You will receive a 15% discount in the Jagged Globe shop. » Jagged Globe's experience of mountaineering in Bolivia stretches back to 1983. 2 3 4 Day 1 - 2 Fly to La Paz Those joining in the UK on the scheduled group flight will fly from London via Sao Paulo, arriving in La Paz the morning of Day 2. After landing at El Alto International Airport (4,200m) you'll be taken to to the hotel in the centre of La Paz. If you are joining on a ‘land only’ basis, you need to arrive in La Paz on Day 2. Day 3 City tour of La Paz (3,500m) A day in La Paz (3,300m) to acclimatise, relax and discover the city via the cable car system seeing both ancient and modern districts. La Paz rests in a natural basin 1,000m below the Altiplano. Visit the Witches' Market and the Cathedral of San Francisco. Day 4 Lake Titicaca and Copacabana (3,800m) Today you'll be driven to Copacabana (stopping for trout en route for lunch), to take in some culture while you acclimatise. It's a place of pilgrimage for South Americans, situated on the shores of Lake Titicaca. You'll climb to the Inca Gallows and Cerro Calvario (3,995m), from where you can watch the sunset dip into the lake. The hotel here is traditional, locally owned and basic. Day 5 Boat trip to Islay del Sol (4,080m) Islay del Sol was a principal shrine for the indigenous Incas and Tiahuanaco peoples of the Altiplano. A local guide will explain the significance of the island and of its close neighbour, the Moon. You'll return to Copacabana (3,800m) for the evening. Day 6 Tuni, gateway to the Condoriri mountains (4,400m) Today, you'll be driven to Tuni. Once the camp has been set up, it's a 200m hike up a nearby hillside to acclimatise, from where you'll see why this range is named the 'Condor's Mountains'. Day 7 Trek to Condoriri Base Camp (4,600m) After an early breakfast, mules will be loaded for the five-hour trek to base camp - with a stop for a packed lunch break on the way. Condoriri is one of the most beautiful peaks in Bolivia and quite possibly throughout the Andes. After setting up camp in the early afternoon, you may explore the area with a walk to the glacier at 4,810m, before preparing for the next few days. Day 8 Point Austria (5,300m) Today you'll climb Point Austria, which overlooks the camp. It takes about three hours and provides magnificent views towards the main Condoriri range throughout the climb, but especially from the top. Here, you'll view the impressive Pequeño Alpamayo, the peak you'll climb in two days’ time. You can be back in base camp in about two hours. Day 9 Glacier Training (4,800m) You can enjoy a restful start today before walking up to the glacier. Here, we'll run a skills workshop to refresh proficiency in roping-up for glacier travel, abseiling and, if the ice is good, some 5 ice climbing. Day 10 Rest and acclimatisation (4,600m) Today you'll stay at Condoriri base camp for a well-deserved rest before the early morning start to climb Pequeño Alpamayo. Day 11 Pequeño Alpamayo ascent (5,400m) 3:00am breakfast and you’ll be away up a fine rock and snow arête to a beautiful summit. Guides will deploy fixed ropes for the steeper sections. Everyone should summit around 10am. This is probably the most technically challenging summit you'll climb. It's excellent preparation for the rigorous climbing at higher altitude yet come! You’ll return to camp after enjoying the summit views. Day 12 Huayna Potosi Base Camp (4,790m) Today you'll move to the foot of Huayna Potosi, your first 6,000er. Mules and llamas carry the gear back to the road head in Tuni, where the vehicles will be waiting. You'll be driven around Zongo Dam and stay in the climbers' hut, Refugio Casa Blanca. Day 13 Refugio Casa Alta Roca (5,180m) It's a steep and rocky three-hour walk to the higher Casa Alta Roca refuge, which stands on a lateral moraine. Porters will carry food and technical kit with one bag of gear will be shared between every two team members. You'll settle into bed when the sun and temperature drop, reminding of the altitude and close proximity of ice outside. Day 14 Huayna Potosi ascent (6,094m) You'll set off at 3am for the summit. Slopes lead to the spectacular northern ridge of the mountain. After six hours of hard work, the top rewards with a fine panorama of the Taquasi Massif: Ancohuma to the north, your next peak Illimani to the south and, in the distance, the volcano of Sajama (the highest mountain in Bolivia). You'll return to Alta Roca for a quick lunch before descending to Casa Blanca to camp. Day 15 Rest day in La Paz/spare summit day If you climbed the mountain yesterday, you'll leave Base Camp as early as possible to get back to the city by lunchtime. You'll relax in the afternoon, shower, refresh and spend the night back in the comfort of the hotel. Day 16 Illimani Base Camp - Puente Roto (4,460m) You'll leave around 8:30am for your main objective: Illimani. It's a four hour drive to the road head at Pinaya where you'll have lunch. Mules ease the burden and carry all the group equipment and personal loads on the two to four hour walk to Base Camp. It's steep, but you'll take it steady ready for the big climb that starts tomorrow.
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