stern. With one person holding the tip chase system supplied with the boat to 29er Owner’s of the mast so that it is about a foot off the front hole of the bow plate. the transom, (or resting it on a horse), Even up the trapeze rings and Rigging Manual attach the butt to the hole in the step. attach the other end with the jamming The mast step is reversible, so block to the rings. With out starting to by Chad Turner tension, the forestay will be about 2-3” Rigging the 29er is quite simple and away from the bowplate. See previous can be completed in minutes. photo. Tension the rig and attach the Beginning with the mast, you should carefully make sure that all halyards are untangled and ready to use. Inspect the mast for any fittings that may have loosened during delivery. These fittings include the spreader’s tips and base, trapeze mountings and mainsail track. If you do not trust the that if one end gets worn from use, it quick pins supplied with the boat re- can be rotated instead of replaced. place them with proportionally sized Remove the bottom pin from each cotter pins and ring dings. Quick pins chain plate, leaving the shrouds in are great for the jib track stops, but bad place, and attach the end of the chain for keeping the mast up if you do not plate to the saddles mounted on the make sure that they are fully inserted boat. The spinnaker sheet ratchet forestay to the CENTRE hole in the into the chainplates. Remember to blocks are attached to the same bowplate. Remove boom vang. If set saddles. With the mast butt and correctly, the rig tension should meas- ure around 28 on a Loos gauge. Attach the trapeze rings to the shockchord loops on the gunwale just behind the chainplates. Pass the loop through the ring above the bar then pull it down over the bottom of the ring. Slide up to the top of the ring. connect the forestay to the mast by first passing it underneath the small shock cord attached to the shrouds near the jib halyard sheave. The shock cord prevents the spinnaker halyard from shrouds connected, make sure the getting caught in this area. The forestay trapeze wires are in an unobstructed should be taken off the mast while position where they can help pull the travelling as it is sticks out beyond the mast to its upright position. Use both mast step and has been known to fall trapeze wires to pull the mast upright out of the key slot. Undo the spinnaker as the person holding the tip walks it halyard and make sure there are up beside the boat until out of reach. stopper knots in both ends! Now! With mast upright, attach the To step, place the mast horizon- becket block of the boom vang pur- tally on the boat with the bottom end near the step and the top towards the The boom attaches at the gooseneck with a quick pin. The boom vang attaches similarly to a second goose-

the end of the boom, just behind the knot tied to the small saddle (deck hanging block. Pass the line up strap). The final part passes through through the hole, out the back and put the block on the traveler and is tied off a figure eight in the end. (Note in the on the clew board (shown here being picture the arrangement of the clew held by hand in the photo). The rules loop and the outhaul hook block). The allow a shackle or quick release sheet then goes (photo above right) device for attachment to the clew. through the bridle traveler block, back Continuous sheets are nice up to the rear mainsheet hangar block because they enable you to always on the boom, forward THROUGH THE have a grasp of both sheets. If the RED VECTRA LINE neck slightly below the beginning of LOOP and then the mainsail track, The lower end of down through the the strut is attached to a “shoe” which mainsheet ratchet should rest on the top of the boom and block. Make sure

the ratchet block crew does not have the sheet in hand, clicks when you it is easily found by picking it up as it sheet in. Ronstan falls from the skipper’s hand. ratchet blocks are pressure sensitive, Spinnaker setup so you might have The spinnaker setup is a little more to put a little back involved, but hopefully this will give pressure on the you some tricks to make it easier. block, to activate it. Note: Some boats may be shipped without the spinnaker sock installed to be free to slide. (Spray a little McLube If the main and jib sheet are continu- avoid mildew - particularly in winter. If on the felt under the shoe). The picture ous, the jib sheet will be either spliced your sock is not installed, lay it out in above shows the complete setup of the into the end of the main or tied to it. the cockpit under the port side of the vang without the mainsail hoisted. The The jib sheet would then continue thwart. Remove the small screws and purchases on the boom are already through the jib sheet swivel cleat, washers in the aluminum throat and rigged when shipped. Tie a loop in the forward under the partner to a bullet attach the sock to the Velcro tape on end of line. The deck led part of the block mounted on the throat to which the throat. Line up the pre-drilled holes vang control attaches to this loop with the spinnaker sock is attached. From in the sock and reinstall the screws. the hook block. there it comes back to a block on the Tie the back end of the sock to the The mainsheet and jib sheet can end of the line which actually attaches deck strap holding the stand-up block be rigged as separate lines or tied to the jib clew, the “final part”, then immediately behind it using the sup- together. If separate, the mainsheet forward to the opposite side of the plied Vectran line. would begin internally in the hole at throat where it ends with a figure eight and retrieval line are all led to one side of the forestay and that the halyard does not do a wrap around the forestay. Port side (for a starboard tack set) would be the preferred side for racing. Pull the spinnaker halyard, now retrieval The first step is to lead the spinnaker line, out of the throat and halyard from where it exits the bottom pass it UNDER and up of the mast straight down through an the OUTSIDE of the eye in the partner where it then passes spinnaker then through forward through the cheek block the lower grommet. Now mounted directly below on the side of lead the retrieval line up the mast support. See below. It then the INSIDE of the goes towards the bow, UNDER both spinnaker through the upper grommet, and tie a figure eight knot. You don’t want this knot to pull through the grom- met, so make sure your knot is big or use a light stopper ball. The spinnaker sheet cockpit, passing under everything is continuous, with both ends attached including the partner, through a small to the clew of the spinnaker. Lead one eye leading to the spinnaker halyard end through the port ratchet block, cleat and through the cleat. It goes then through the grommet in theclew of straight back through a stand-up block the spinnaker where the red and and then over to the port side of the white tapes meet. The other end goes boat where it passes forward through behind the mast, through the starboard the line inside the spin pole and the another stand-up block. After passing ratchet block, around the forestay, pole extension line. See photo below. through this block, this same halyard above and inside the retrieval line, From there, it continues forward and turns into the retrieval line for the and also through the clew grommet. passes through the larger of the two spinnaker! Feed the retrieval line TIP: Pass the port sheet through the clew grommet from starboard to port, (which is the opposite of what you would normally do!) and do the star- board sheet from port to starboard before tying figure eight knots. It doesn’t look right but it will stop the clew hanging up on the forestay during a gybe! In the end, the sheets should be above everything in the cockpit so that you have full use of them down- wind from the trapeze. through the aft end on the spinnaker Take the time to examine the sock and out under the throat. system used to extend and retract the At this point, it’s a good idea to pole. The act of extending the pole is tie the halyard onto the head of the brought about by the spinnaker hal- in-line blocks that are fixed together. spinnaker where the green and red yard pulling the two-in-line block aft (The line passing through the smaller tapes intersect. Attach the tack line, which then pulls the large end of the block is attached to the pole and coming out of the end of the pole, to pole forward until the knot attaching actually launches it during hoisting). the end of the spinnaker where the the extender line to the deck strap on See photo at top of next column. green and white tapes meet. Check the pole hits the block as shown in the After that, it comes back towards to to make sure the halyard, tack line, photo above. Notice that, at the other aft hole, behind the forestay pin. There is a key in a small pocket at the Attach the halyard to the head of the tack of the mainsail. Tension the jib being sure to screw down the battens with this key (counter clock- fastener all the way. This is used wise) until they are just starting to instead of a shackle as it is less likely stretch the pocket but not so much so to snag the spinnaker. Raise, and hook that the sail is being heavily curved. To raise the mainsail, attach the main halyard to the top of the mainsail, make sure that the halyard is in line with the track, clear of any tangles, and hoist. When the sail reaches the top of the mast, hook the halyard’s

end of the extension line, there is a knot on either side of the deck strap. When the pole is fully extended, photo above, the extension line is fully tensioned and the position of the knot on the line may need to be adjusted so that the rope over the pole is slightly slack and can not jam the pole end tight. If this happens, it may stop the pole from going out all the way. Once retraction starts there is no pressure on the extension line and the second wire loop on to the teeth on the rack knot moves up against the deck strap mounted on the side of the mast. providing enough slack so that the the wire loop to the adjustable rope Typically you will be on the first or pole can swing off centre as it goes purchase system. Don’t over tension second hook. Loop the clew tie-down down the starboard side of the cockpit. the jib halyard in light wind. If the over the end of the boom and attach You will also find that the line leading edge of the jib looks stretched the outhaul hook. (See earlier picture coming out the end of the pole and in light wind, it’s too tight. Increase on p.2) Set the vang ram on the boom, attached to the spinnaker tack has a tension as the wind builds. and tuck all the halyard ends neatly knot in the line inside the pole. It is Before raising the mainsail it is inside the mainsail pocket. positioned so that, as the tack is imperative that you check the ten- withdrawn into the sock, the knot will sion on the battens. They are pull the pole back to the bow fitting. shipped un-tensioned and, if the sail is used this way, the battens are Rigging the sails guaranteed to come out the front end of the batten pocket and you will have a repair on your hands that is not covered by warranty.

At this point you can attach the downhaul (Cunningham) hooks to the bottom of each side of the mainsail making sure that there are no twists in the purchase to allow for unencum- The jib clips directly onto the bered adjustment. Also attach the vang forestay, and the D ring in the tack is adjustment hook to a bowline tied in secured by a clevis pin and ring in the the end of the vang shoe control line stand-up block. If rigged correctly, the trailering. The constant vibration of shock cord should tug any excess objects placed in the cockpit can easily halyard back toward the transom damage your hull. You may remove the instead of allowing it to bunch up by spinnaker pole for trailering, although it’s your feet. Downwind, the long shock not necessary. Wrap a piece of padding cord will stretch enough to allow the around it and tie it up to the partner. retrieval line to go out, but also tug on When the trailer bounces, so does the the excess halyard enough to keep it spinnaker pole. Over time, constant organized during manoeuvres. bouncing could seriously damage the Friction is a killer! McLube, is a rear portion of the pole if its not suffi- great idea for most friction-prone ciently secured. areas and a can is supplied with the boat as a courtesy from McLube. It’s Sail Care not a lubricant for bearings, it just The sails are very durable if treated makes things slippery with out attract- correctly. Don’t luff any sail more than ing much dirt. Use plenty of it on your needed. Over time, luffing will create exiting from the bottom of the boom spinnaker pole, jib track and, particu- small creases in the material that can near the gooseneck. Zip up the main- larly, the entrance to the spinnaker lead to rips. This mostly applies to pre- sail sleeve. sock. Spray down into the sock while start manoeuvres when luffing into the Screw in the bow and stern drain you’re at it. It will even prevent your wind for extended lengths of time is plugs! Now! Note that the bow plug is wet tell-tales from sticking to the sails. common. Roll the sails for storage and provided solely to allow air to pass Tape anything and everything try to minimize creasing and folds. through the boat when stored to avoid that looks like it could damage your 49er world champion Chris collecting condensation in the hull. spinnaker or potentially come un- Nicholson explains 49er sail care this done. This includes fittings or way and it applies equally to the 29er Rigging Tips fastenings at deck level that could “The design and construction of the To restrict the spinnaker halyard from snag the spinnaker if you were retriev- sails give excellent performance re-cleating during a spinnaker take ing it during a capsize (most likely time through a wide wind range. The 49er down, tie a short piece of shock cord to damage the spinnaker). The fore- offers thrills and, when not handled from the jib sheet cleat mount, under stay and jib tack rings should be correctly, spills. It is important for all taped, along with the fasteners of the crews to respect that lightweight aluminum throat. Tape all rings, equipment is the key to performance including the ones holding the mast and sails are no exception”. up. Heat shrink tubing has been Avoid landing on the mainsail or placed over the Nicopresses on the jib in a capsize. In a capsize the sails trap wires. Check this area as well. can not be expected to withstand the load of crews free falling from the Boat Care gunwale height and using the sails to It is best to store the 29er on a form break their fall. If unavoidable, spread fitted trailer or yard dolly. Form fitted the load on impact by landing on the storage devices allow for the weight of whole length of your body, either face the hull to be spread out over a down or on your back, by somersault- greater area, decreasing hull stress ing. Feet, head or arms first is most from concentrated loads. Do not leave likely to cause damage to the sail. The the spinnaker halyard and onto the your boat on grass for extended best escape is aft diving beyond the starboard foot-bar. periods or osmosis in the gelcoat mainsail leech and in this case if you The following system can help could result. do land towards the back of the sail manage excess spinnaker halyard in It’s beneficial to detach the fore- there will be more give to absorb the the sets and takedowns. First, attach a stay prior to storage, decreasing load shock load than landing around the luff small bullet block to the end of a four- on the mast and the hull. This can be area which is supported by the mast. foot piece of shock cord. Attach a achieved by substituting the vang-like Main and Jib care tips second small bullet block to the port, purchase system attached to the · Spray the main luff tape and track rear, hiking strap mount. Pass the trapeze rings and bow, for the forestay. regularly with McLube to reduce shock cord through this bullet block In preparation for going on the road, wear on the bolt rope, particularly and tie the end to the forward, port, check to make sure the boat is resting around the batten ends. hiking strap mount. Lastly, run the evenly on the trailer before tying down. · Minor repairs can be carried out spinnaker halyard from the starboard Try to avoid leaving loose metallic with adhesive Dacron or ideally stand-up block, through the block on objects such as pieces of the launching Mylar stickyback. Ensure the the shock cord, and then to the port dolly, blades, or boom in the boat while damaged area is dry and salt free, by wiping it down with Methyl Launching & Retrieving: Hydrate (Rubbing Alcohol). The drawback of having a tall mast Section 2 · Avoid handling the sails on hard and narrow waterline is that the boat surfaces such as concrete. has less stability when tied up to a Sailing Tips · Wash the mainsail zipper with dock. Don’t put the boat into the Upwind Sailing: fresh water regularly. Do not spray water until you are ready to go sailing. There are few adjustments to be made with any lubricants, other than Double check the bow and stern on the 29er while sailing that will greatly McLube, as they attract grit. plugs! When you do put the boat in affect your boat speed. The most · Tie a stopper knot in the jib sheet the water, try to pull it up along side successful sailors will be the ones who with the clew 900mm away from the dock to allow one wing to rest on sail the boat most often in a variety of the traveler block. This helps to the upper edge of the dock. This conditions. restrict the jib from wrapping greatly stabilizes the boat and allows around the forestay when cap- for the crew to easily slide in the Light Wind, Pre-trapeze sized, reducing the principal centerboard and rudder. Don’t be Light wind sailing can be frustrating in cause of broken battens. afraid to use the trapeze wires, any boat. The is no exception. shrouds, or spinnaker halyard to keep 29er The boat is very sensitive to crew Spinnaker care tips the boat upright if it tips when initially weight placement. The hull has a fine Your spinnaker cloth has a silicone entering the water. entry and a very flat run aft. In flat finish which reduces friction in the The crew should enter the boat water, the goal is to reduce wetted launching chute and when gybing and first and stand just behind the centre- surface in the stern by sitting forward. with care you can prolong the life of board box with feet well apart so that In light air the boat will sail fastest your sail. the boat can be easily balanced when when it is heeled slightly (to lift the · Avoid drying in direct sunlight or the skipper comes aboard. windward aft bottom out of the water flapping in the wind. To retrieve from the water, have and so reduce wetted area), and · Check the mouth of your spinna- the dolly in a position such that the trimmed bow-down so that the leeward ker chute for any sharp edges by boat can be pulled directly from the chine aft just skims the surface (to running your fingers firmly over all water up onto the dolly. It’s generally reduce drag). For this trim, both skip- surfaces. Sharp surfaces will not a good idea to have one person on per and crew will need to be close only cut the cloth, they will also each side of the boat, picking it up together near the mast partner – in “pull” seam threads. and walking it forward, rather than some cases both will be on the part- · Spray your launching chute sliding it onto the dolly. ner!. The coordination used by the regularly with McLube to reduce Hoist launching works well if set fastest crews is for the helmsman to friction. up correctly. The sling should be remain as steady as possible and · “Pulled” threads can often be centered over the centerboard trunk. concentrate on performance, and for addressed by laying the gathered The forward portions of the sling can the crew to move, smoothly, as neces- area of the seam out on a flat be attached to the hull shroud eyes on sary to maintain balance. surface and carefully adjusting the each side. The rear portion can go The decision on whether to sit on tension of the thread back into the from the cockpit out through the rear the windward or leeward side of the form of the original stitch by re- foot strap, under the hull, back up mast may depend on total crew weight tensioning the thread with a through the opposite foot strap into and wind velocity. Weight distribution needle, un-picker or similar tool. the cockpit and back to the lifting loop works well with the crew on, or in front · Tears can be easily repaired with over the centerboard trunk. The foot of the partner and the skipper sitting the use of silicone sealant / glue straps should not take any load! inside the boat directly on top of the and some .75oz spinnaker cloth. They are just to keep the sling under centerboard or closer to the windward Wash the damaged area with the hull from sliding forward. The rear rail. Keep weight close together. If fresh water and Methyl Hydrate . portion of the sling should be made there is chop, sitting too far forward Cut a patch that is 25mm larger from rope to prevent damage to the may hurt boat speed. Occasional that the damaged area, smear a hull. waves over the bow are OK, but thin layer of silicone around the constant waves over the bow require edge of the patch, spread the some weight movement aft. damaged area out on a flat sur- Problems? Start with the jib sheet attached to face and apply the patch. When If you encounter problems rigging your the upper hole of the clew board and dry the damaged cloth may be cut boat you can do three things: the track pins on the second hole in away leaving the patch. Ordinary 1. Put up a message on the website at from the rail. Don’t over sheet the jib. sticky back rip-stop will not stay www.29er.com A good reference for sheeting the jib is adhered to the silicone finish on 2. e-mail the factory at: the distance from the jib car to the clew. the spinnaker. [email protected] 3. Phone the factory at 514 363 5050 Four inches is a good starting point. You can also trim the jib to the point feel the boat “loading up” and will react spinnaker in lighter wind. When headed where the bottom of the sail is just faster with the jib than the crew. Noth- too close to the wind, the spinnaker will touching the rail of the boat. The jib ing, repeat nothing, slows down a 29er have to be sheeted hard to remain full, sheet should be adjusted quite regularly faster than an over trimmed jib! slowing boat speed. If sailing too far off depending on what you want the boat to If in doubt - let it out! the wind, the boat will stall and the do. If pointing is preferred, sheet the jib mainsail will block the wind from the in half an inch and give the boat a Tacking spinnaker. To sail fast, the boat must be sailed between these two extremes. slight leeward heel to help pointing. If In light wind, make your turn into the When the spinnaker luffs, pull in the you want speed for oncoming chop, wind slowly in an attempt to maintain spinnaker sheet. If the spinnaker needs ease the jib sheet an inch and keep the momentum. When headed straight into constant sheeting to remain full, steer boat flat. the wind, increase the speed of the turn the boat slightly away from the wind. If Pull the mainsheet taut. Downhaul and to minimize time headed directly into the spinnaker looks like it’s just hanging boom vang should be snug. Slacken the wind. When your tack is nearly in front of the boat and not staying full, the outhaul to where the clew is about 3 complete, allow a slight bit of leeward try heading towards the wind. If the inches from the end of the boom. heel and flatten the boat smoothly with spinnaker is full but you are going really sails sheeted in. slow, try easing the spinnaker sheet or Trapeze Conditions In trapeze conditions, start your head towards the wind a little. Always This is where the 29er will start to take turn slowly but as soon as the jib luffs, try to ease the spinnaker sheet, inches off upwind. The crew should be on the turn the boat onto the new tack. Try to at a time, until the luff begins to curl. trapeze, either all the way out or stand- minimize the time making the manoeu- ing on the outside foot rails just aft of vre and maximize the time at which you the shrouds. In big chop, moving a foot are traveling full speed. Trapeze Conditions aft from the shrouds will help to keep The same concepts for light wind the bow out of the waves. Don’t move Downwind Sailing spinnaker trim apply to all wind condi- too far aft too early. The skipper will be Sailing a 29er off the wind is one of the tions. If the wind is barely strong progressing from the inboard position most exhilarating feelings in our sport. enough for the crew to flat out trapeze, onto the rail, ending up next to the It is extremely fast and will always get use the metal foot-bars inside the crew’s feet. your heart pumping when the breeze is cockpit to trapeze from. Don’t feel like Pointing shouldn’t be a priority and on. It is important for the crew to you have to sail really high angles to speed should be your number one concentrate 100% on the spinnaker, the keep your crew all the way out on the concern. Keep the jib trimmed in no major driving force of the boat. trapeze. If the wind doesn’t allow flat less than 4 inches, with the track pins out planing, try to sail lower angles in an on the second hole in from the rail. Spinnaker sets and takedowns attempt to surf existing wind chop or Tighten the jib halyard as needed to swell. Head towards the wind to gain Before setting or taking down the remove any scallops between the speed and then carry your newly spinnaker, head the boat onto a broad hanks attaching it to the forestay. The acquired speed down to surf the waves. reach, nearly downwind. outhaul should be all the way on. As the wind increases, the crew can To set, pull upward on the spinna- Tighten the vang and downhaul as the get out on the trapeze generally in the ker halyard from behind the starboard wind progresses. Be generous with same place they were standing upwind, side stand-up block. The crew should your control lines and don’t over do it. moving further back as the wind in- pull the halyard while skipper looks up When going for speed, keep both creases, to allow the boat to plane on occasionally to tell the crew how much jib tell-tales flowing back and keep the the aft portion of the hull. It’s important further they need to pull. When all the boat as flat as possible. The mainsheet to not over sheet the spinnaker if you way up, the crew should immediately should be tight except when you need are trying to go fast. For speed, ease reach for the leeward spinnaker sheet to de-power. It can be difficult, but the spinnaker to where it is just on the to begin trimming. easing the jib and the main together as verge of luffing. When there is enough To take down, uncleat the spinna- a puff hits can really help your boat breeze to trapeze upwind, there is ker halyard, pull the tail of the halyard, speed. Some people like to have the plenty of wind to trapeze and plane now the retrieval line, from behind the crew trim the mainsheet from the downwind. If you’re not planing, head up port side stand-up block until the trapeze while the skipper trims the jib. a bit or ease the spinnaker sheet, or spinnaker is sufficiently in the sock. It takes some communication and both. If you become overpowered practice, but it can be done very effec- sailing with the spinnaker and the tively. Light Wind, Pre-trapeze mainsheet is already eased, head the TIP: In really heavy air, it is more The same upwind concepts work going boat away from the wind. important that the jib be cracked even downwind too. Sit forward, keep weight When the wind gets up above 18 before the main. This is the principal together and move gently in the boat. knots, wind chop becomes larger. Big reason that a skipper and crew reverse There is a small range of headings waves get a little scary downwind when the sheets as the skipper is the first to and trim appropriate for flying the the 29er has the potential to travel at greater than wind speed. These condi- wind to help the spinnaker around the windward roll, scooting out from under tions require special attention: forestay rather than ripping it around the crew and turning back over. · The crew can use the foot strap at with the sheet after the gybe. If the boat turtles in shallow water the transom of the boat to stabilize In heavy wind (20+ knots), it is and the mast gets stuck, go to the bow themselves when there are signifi- advantageous to be planing when going and swim the boat so that the cockpit is cant changes in boat speed. into a gybe. To keep the boat under facing the wind. In this case, the wind · The crew should lower the trapeze control, sustain your speed by gybing will be pushing the mast out of the mud so that they are in a more reclined the boom first. After this is achieved, rather than into it. Then, have both position and not “standing up” on then gybe the spinnaker. It is important skipper and crew get onto the the rail. This greatly improves for the skipper to decisively turn the centerboard. Be patient, it may take stability when standing further from boat slightly toward the wind soon after awhile to get the mast unstuck. Once the mast. the gybe to gain stability. Keep in mind, unstuck, have one person stay on the · The skipper can smoothly steer the these are very challenging conditions centerboard while the other swims the boat and talk to the crew about up- and time in the boat will pay off. boat into the capsize recovery position coming waves or puffs of wind. described above. · When you are going fast and Capsize Recovery If the capsize occurred while encounter a large motor boat wake Capsizing is inevitable and happens to traveling downwind with the spinnaker or wave, try sheeting in the spinna- the best sailors. Try not to panic and hoisted, douse the spinnaker by ker before crossing the waves to instead think about how to solve your uncleating the halyard and pulling on slow the boat down gradually, rather particular situation. There will be some the retrieval line while capsized. Don’t than suffering an abrupt decrease in races where the team who rights their fret about getting the spinnaker pulled speed as you fall off the back side of boat the fastest might actually do the completely into the sock. Pull enough the wave. This helps to keep your best. It’s a good idea to discuss this in so that the spinnaker is not going to crew from flying around the forestay. subject with your crew and work out the flap around in the wind or get dragged steps you are going to take to solve it. in the water when you right the boat. Gybing Techniques The fail-safe method requires both Finish dousing the spinnaker when you Gybing techniques can vary depending sailors to fall in the water and swim get settled. on wind strength and skipper/crew boat around to the centerboard. Make sure Acknowledgement handling skills. that the jib sheet is uncleated and get to I should very much like to to thank Chad In moderate conditions, trimming the the centerboard as fast as possible to Turner for all his hard work in getting this spinnaker to the new side as the skipper avoid turtling. If the boat does turtle, rigging manual together. Chad under- slowly turns through the wind onto the use the weight of both skipper and crew stands the importance of doing things new gybe, nearly or completely filling the to bring the boat onto its side with the the correct away and it shows in the spinnaker before actually gybing the mast parallel to the water. Do this by narrative. It was undertaken entirely of boom seems to be very fast. In most holding the tip of the centerboard while his own volition and it was his own cases, if the turn is smooth and gradual, standing on the rail and leaning out. motivation made this manual happen. the 29er will only drop off a plane for a To prevent another capsize immedi- He says he did it because he hated to second or two, if at all. It can also be ately after righting the boat, have one see sailors not enjoying their sailing done on a wave where speed losses are person swim the bow of the boat toward experience in the 29er to the fullest. Our very small. This method also avoids the the wind, with the hull bottom facing the sincere thanks. Ian Bruce, Ed. common twisting (hourglass) that can wind direction. When in position, occur when the spinnaker is blanketed attempt to right the boat with both the Note from the Author against the windward side of the jib. skipper and crew on the centerboard. The 29er is an exceptional boat. Its STEPS: Don’t try to jump into the boat too soon. simplicity still amazes me and its speed 1) Slow turn away from wind. 2) Crew in First, stabilize the boat while you are makes everything else seem slow. I from trapeze at same time releasing still in the water on the windward side truly believe that this modern design will spinnaker sheet and grabbing new and keep the bow from crossing the contribute greatly to the sport of sailing, sheet - Boat is dead down wind at this wind. Righting the boat in a position allowing sailors of all ages to keep point. 3) Pull in new sheet. such that the sails will fill slightly upon learning at a fast pace while remaining 4) At the same time, continue turning the recovery will help to counterbalance the captivated by its performance. This boat and gybe the boom, gradually boat as you climb back in on the wind- manual was written with the intent to heading up as the crew jumps out onto ward side. Climb in one at a time with help new owners gain a basic under- the trapeze. the first person in getting hold of the standing of the boat’s rigging and to The greater your boat speed, the mainsheet AND THE TILLER and introduce basic skiff sailing concepts. easier it is. Don’t try to force the boat sheeting in enough to put some force in I would like to officially welcome you to around. Make a nice smooth turn. This the main. The principal reason for one of the newest and most exciting gybe allows for minimal lag time, ena- turning over again, after a capsize, is dingy classes in the world. I hope you bling the boat to begin accelerating as the fact that the main is loose no one enjoy the 29er as much as I have. See soon as the boom is across, using the is on the tiller and the boat does a you on the water. Chad Turner