Magazine of National Parks Association of buffel grass grazing on national parks palmerston range walk collared delma the national park experience

Issue 2 April-May 2015 1 Welcome to the Contents April/May edition of Welcome to Protected 2 Protected Buffel grass 3 Parks into Paddocks 6 Michelle Prior, NPAQ President Carnarvon National Park 8 Protected symbolises both the evolution of NPAQ over its 85 year Tracks near the Palmerston Hwy 10 history, and the essence of its founding Collared Delma 12 principles. Brought into being on the The National Park Experience 13 15th April 1930 by two ‘idealists of What’s On 14 the obstinate kind’, Romeo Lahey and Arthur Groom, NPAQ sought to fill an Letter to the Editor 15 important gap - there being ‘no body of public opinion...organised to combat the influences which were operating Council against the best interests of National President Michelle Prior Parks’. Vice Presidents Tony O’Brien So inspired by nature’s beauty, NPAQ Athol Lester founding members wished to work Hon Secretary Debra Marwedel towards protecting it. Around this Asst Hon Secret Yvonne Parsons time, community organisations were Hon Treasurer Graham Riddell the primary drives for protected area Councillors Julie Hainsworth proposals. Geoff Lowes Peter Ogilvie Today, there is a plethora of Richard Proudfoot environmental, conservation Des Whybird volunteering, bushwalking, outdoor Mike Wilke activities, nature experiences and travel organisations. World Conventions, national and state Staff legislation, conservation science, and Paul Donatiu government departments staffed with Anna Tran dedicated professionals fulfil many of Jeannie Rice NPAQ early roles. 85 years down the track, NPAQ is Mission Statement as necessary today as it was at its The National Parks Association pro- inception. Influences that operate motes the preservation, expansion, ap- against the best interests of national propriate management and presentation parks remain. of National Parks in Queensland. NPAQ is proud to be the longest Contact Details running NPA in , and one of Unit 10/36 Finchley Street, Milton the first conservation organisations in PO Box 1040, Milton QLD 4064 Queensland. Educating people to the ABN: 60 206 792 095 wonders of nature by experiencing Phone: (07) 3367 0878 the bush for themselves, remains as Web: www.npaq.org.au important as successfully lobbying for Email: [email protected] the creation and protection of national parks. Advertising enquiries Because of people such as yourself, [email protected] NPAQ has remained committed to the Cover - Part of the Amphitheatre, active pursuit of its founding principles. Carnarvon National Park (Paul Donatiu). Happy birthday NPAQ!

Copyright © 2015 National Parks Association of Queensland

2 BUFFEL GRASS A two-edged sword

Neil Douglas, NPAQ Member

Like it or not, Buffel grass pastoral industry because it provides In Queensland, ecosystems that have affects many national parks good forage in areas of lower been badly affected by buffel grass in Queensland. This article precipitation (generally the 200– spread include poplar box, silver-leaved provides important background 1000mm per annum range), usually ironbark, mountain coolabah, brigalow information on this exotic producing at least twice the amount and gidgee woodlands. It is also species, its impact and methods of edible material and in a shorter invading some mulga and dry rainforest of control. timeframe after rain than native grasses. communities where conditions are In Central Australia, it has been planted favourable. Buffel grass (Cenchrus ciliaris) is a primarily for soil stabilisation and dust grass native to semi-arid areas of Africa, A major problem associated with buffel control. Buffel grass can remain the Middle East and southern Asia and grass is its interaction with fire. Its high dormant during long drought periods is now also naturalised in many parts of biomass (generally 2 – 3 times that then begin to regrow vigorously within Australia. of native grasses) is likely to increase a short time after about 25 mm or more the intensity, frequency and extent of Buffel grass appears to have been first of rain. It also has a deep root system fires. However, because of its deep introduced into Australia inadvertently in and can access underground moisture root system, buffel grass not only the 1870s via seeds trapped in saddles more readily than most native grasses. survives such fires but recovers rapidly. and other imported equipment used The grass is a prolific producer of burr- At the same time, there is a greater with animals. However, it really made like seeds which can be spread readily chance that woody vegetation such as its presence felt from 1910 when it was by wind, flowing water and animals into shrubs or small trees will be killed by first deliberately planted as a pasture areas well beyond where the grass was buffel-exacerbated fire than in native grass. It quickly found favour with sown originally. Unfortunately, these grassland free of this species. Studies graziers in many lower rainfall areas and characteristics also make buffel grass a have shown that the presence of the first sowing in Queensland was at serious environmental weed. If it were woody ground cover inhibits the spread Cloncurry in 1926. It continues to be not for its value to the pastoral industry, of buffel grass, particularly where the planted in some areas and is now found it would probably have been declared former comprises more than 30% of in all mainland states and territories with as such long ago (the South Australian ground cover, so that if this cover is the exception of Victoria. However, government made such a declaration killed in an intense fire an area will be partly because of its low frost tolerance, earlier this year). susceptible to an even higher degree it remains relatively rare in southern The problems of buffel grass in the of infestation. This positive feedback coastal areas apart from a belt between environment cycle makes buffel grass ever harder Adelaide and Port Augusta. Overall, it to eradicate after each successive fire is estimated that 25% of the continent is Given the right conditions, buffel grass event. “highly suitable” for buffel grass and at can grow aggressively, forming dense least a further 15% fairly suitable, based thickets and crowding out native The ready dispersibility of buffel grass on climate and soil types. The South vegetation. This may degrade not only seeds has made roads and railways Australian Buffel Grass Strategic Plan the floristic composition of an area but major instruments for carrying the 2012-17 takes the view that it could also affect mammal, reptile and bird grass into new areas. Long stretches become established over 60% of the populations. Many native birds will not of highways and railways in the mainland. eat buffel grass seeds, and if native north of South Australia, the south of grass seeds are not available they may the Northern Territory, and western Buffel grass found favour with the leave the infested area. Queensland are now lined with the

3 grass, in some cases large distances it rains. Slashing also reduces the can be considered, but it is obviously from where it had been introduced. intensity of fires. However, it may be very labour-intensive so is probably This can result in new infestations difficult to do slashing mechanically feasible only near significant population becoming established in areas of where there is a good scattering of centres where volunteer labour is on- conservation significance. native shrubs. In select situations hand. The method has been used to whipper-snipping under shrubs may be good effect in parts of the Alice Springs Methods for controlling and feasible if labour is available. Desert Park. eradicating buffel grass There are mixed views over whether Buffel grass control in various There is no one optimum method for short-term (pulse) grazing should be jurisdictions controlling buffel grass. Often more considered as a tool to assist buffel than one method in combination will South Australia’s Buffel Grass Strategic grass eradication. Butler and Fairfax produce the best results. In all cases, Plan 2012-17 advocates that entry of (2003) considered fire to be the worst cost and availability of resources, buffel grass into SA be excluded and agent in assisting buffel grass spread infestation size, and the ecosystem its movement prevented. However, in conservation areas and advocated affected, are all important in determining this has not yet occurred, no doubt periodic, intense grazing to prevent what measures can be taken, or because of the political difficulties seed formation and reduce fuel loads even whether it is feasible to attempt involved. The Plan divides the state prior to fire danger periods. However, control at all. In high conservation into 3 zones. It aims to manage Eyre et al. (2009) found that increased value areas, and in places where buffel infestation in the worst affected zone grazing in poplar box woodlands grass occurrence is only patchy, an (Zone 1 in the north-west), contain ultimately led to increased buffel grass attempt at eradication may be possible. its spread in Zone 2 (the north-east) cover, probably because of the greater Otherwise, the focus may need to be and attempt eradication from the soil disturbance. This is also the on control or attempting to prevent position taken in the South Australian further spread. strategic plan. William and Collins For small to modest areas, herbicide (2004) reported mixed results from the treatment is the single most effective destocking of Moorinya National Park; method of eradication, but it can be after 7 years there was an increase done only when the plant is actively in plant and animal diversity but also growing, i.e. a short time after a rainfall greater buffel grass infestation. event in the warmer months. Since The Butler study, which was carried out this is usually unpredictable, resources in Mazeppa National Park in Central that can be deployed at relatively short Queensland (western Park boundary notice need to be available. One captured in banner-photo above), also application of herbicide is rarely fully concluded that secondary measures effective and follow-up, generally by for fire prevention, such as diligent spot-spraying, is needed. maintenance of fire breaks, should be Some hold the view that slashing undertaken. of buffel grass during dry periods is In areas of very high conservation value, desirable so that new growth is better mechanical removal of individual plants exposed to herbicide application after Buffel-affected woodland in Belmah National Reserve System property near Emerald (Paul Donatiu) 4 remainder. Large-scale mapping of line maintenance, are underway on and Wildlife Service has started a formal buffel grass occurrences has already various parks. In Taunton National process of buffel grass control in the been done, but the Plan points out Park west of , pulse northern plains area. Herbicide is being that detailed mapping is necessary grazing, herbicide and fire (both line applied in late spring to early summer prior to action being taken. Control will maintenance and planned burns) are after rain. be by a variety of measures such as used to assist in the management of The Northern Territory has operational those cited above. It notes that spread buffel and the protection and restoration projects at Uluru-Kata Tjuta National along transport corridors has been very of habitat for the endangered Bridled Park, Alice Springs Desert Park and significant in SA, so the Plan advocates Nail-tailed Wallaby. a pilot eradication programme, using the provision of clean-down facilities for The Western Australian Department herbicides, in the small Rainbow Valley trucks and road-based machinery. of Parks and Wildlife (DPAW) notes reserve in Central Australia. The latter Queensland has a number of that buffel grass is widespread in has been very labour intensive but is ecosystems under threat from buffel the Kimberley, Pilbara and Midwest. reported to have produced good results grass. The Queensland Parks and Generally there appears to have been in regard to regeneration of native Wildlife Service have actively promoted little attempt to control buffel grass vegetation. awareness of, and control options for, so far, although there are infestations In 2012, a proposal to list buffel as a buffel grass for many years - developing of manageable size in the Goldfields key threatening process nationally was management guidelines in 2002, and region which DPAW are encouraging effectively subsumed by an existing an active research program with Central local governments to control using listing for novel biota (including exotic Queensland University. Control actions herbicides. Main Roads would also do grasses) that have an impact on primarily using herbicide, but coupled roadside spraying under this proposal. biodiversity. with other actions such as fire control The New South Wales National Parks Overall, the picture is one of increased awareness of the threat that buffel grass poses to areas of conservation value and to the environment generally. Hopefully this will lead to increased containment and removal efforts, and ultimately to the political will to end its commercial use.

References Butler, D. and Fairfax R. (2003). Ecological Management and Restoration 4:120-125. Eyre, T. et al. (2009). The Rangelands Journal 31: 293-305. http://www.pir.sa.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_ file/0011/240023/buffel_grass_fsheet_Jan2015. pdf Williams, P. and Collins, E. (2004). The first seven years of park management (post-stock mustering) on Moorinya National Park. QPWS Townsville.

What happens when cattle are allowed to graze unchecked under the guise of controlling exotics like buffel - NPAQ Principal Advocate Paul Donatiu at Forest Den National Park in November 2013 (Paul Donatiu) 5 PARKS INTO PADDOCKS

Paul Donatiu, NPAQ Principal Advocate

In the last edition of Protected, I Bania National Park threatened species for Bania including examined why grazing is one of the 12 leases covering 22,530ha (68% of the Koala, Plumed Frogmouth and primary challenges currently faced by Park). Leases issued from 1970 to Glossy Black Cockatoo (all vulnerable). 2006 for periods of 10-50 years. national parks in Queensland. At the Bulburin National Park time that edition went to print, NPAQ Bania National Park, 100km west 7 leases covering 8,900 ha (27% of had done a number of title searches of Bundaberg and previously State Park). Leases issued from 1970 to and found over 30 grazing leases Forest, was gazetted in August 2008 2006 for periods of 8-50 years. covering almost 100,000 hectares as part of the South East Queensland Bulburin National Park, 120km south on 11 national parks. With additional Forests Agreement process. At of Gladstone, provides important searches, this has grown to >60 leases the time of gazettal, Bania carried habitat for 22 listed threatened species. covering almost 200,000 hectares on grazing leases and many of these Amongst these, the vulnerable 20 national parks. This article names were allowed to continue. However, Black-breasted Button-quail (Turnix five of the national parks affected, some like the other Parks detailed below, melanogaster) is affected by impacts of the threatened species they protect Bania protects threatened plants and resulting from the activities of domestic and, where possible, whether grazing animals, and regional ecosystems that stock including the compaction of has an effect on these species. are endangered and of concern. The soil, destruction of sheltered sites Management Statement (a scaled down Some of the grazing leases on national by browsing and establishment of version of national park management parks are due to expire this year. It is cattle camps. The recovery plan for plans produced in the past) for Bania NPAQ’s position that, with the exception this species notes that in the Fitzroy states that: of the ongoing grazing trials designed basin...... long-lasting drought and to protect the endangered Bridle While timber harvesting has ceased, cattle stocking led to the disappearance Nail-tailed Wallaby on Taunton, that grazing and apiculture will continue of the species from scrubs in the there should be no cattle grazing on over much of the park where this use region. Bulburin also protects the only Queensland national parks. is consistent with maintaining the area’s known population of the endangered nature conservation or cultural values. Bulburin nut tree (Macadamia jansenii). In this article, threatened species refers to species listed as endangered, This seems a contradiction of why vulnerable or near threatened in the Bania was declared a national park 2 leases covering 45,000 ha (41% of Queensland Nature Conservation Act in the first instance. The Queensland Park). Leases issued in 1987 and 1992 for 30 and 20 years respectively (the 1992. It should be noted that the Government’s WildNet database lists six latter extended by 4yrs). plant and animal species lists on the Expedition National Park, 90km ’s WildNet northwest of , protects large database, for each of these national stands of vegetation communities parks, are only as good as the extent, found in the , a bioregion duration and timing (seasonality) of in with only 2% survey effort on-Park. national park coverage (compared There is little doubt that more with 5% Queensland currently in conservation wonders are to be found national park). The Park is home to on these Parks. 16 threatened species. One of these, the vulnerable Collared Delma (Delma Black-breasted Button-quail (Ross Monks) 6 torquata) is known to be affected by Agreement process. There is one of the first of these - a lease covering overgrazing, which compacts soil, endangered and nine of concern 172 hectares in Peak Range National making it very difficult for this species regional ecosystems represented in Park. This lease was due to expire on to find suitable shelter (more about the Park. Two of these ecosystems 30th April 2014, but was extended by this species on page 12). The Park were not represented in national parks the Newman LNP Government until also provides habitat for the vulnerable or protected areas until this Park was 30th April 2015. NPAQ also notes that Dunmall’s snake (Furina dunmalli) which created. One of the actions in the the Management Statements prepared is threatened by extensive clearing of Management Statement (2013) for this for protected areas in Queensland habitat for pasture improvement and Park states: designate the electorate that the extensive overgrazing of habitat by respective national park falls within. Monitor and manage impacts from domestic stock. Many of the national parks currently approved grazing activities on the park grazed fall within the Callide electorate. Kroombit Tops National Park in accordance with the conditions 4 leases covering 12,000 ha (25% of stated in the relevant grazing authority. Park). Leases issued from 1986 to References 2006 for periods of 10-30 years. Why was approval given? Even a Hines, H. B. and the South-east Queensland quick appraisal of the literature provides Threatened Frogs Recovery Team. 2002. Kroombit lies in a zone where plants Recovery plan for stream frogs of south-east numerous reasons why cattle should Queensland 2001-2005. Report to Environment and animals can often be found at Australia, Canberra. Queensland Parks and not be allowed on Park. Not least of Wildlife Service, . either their northern or southern range these are that grazing inevitably leads Mathieson, M.T. and Smith, G.C. 2009. National limits in temperate habitats at altitude recovery plan for the black-breasted button-quail to a reduction in the diversity of native Turnix melanogaster. Report to the Department (800-940m above sea level). Partly plants and animals, that it does not of the Environment, Water, Heritage and the for this reason, the Park is home to 20 Arts, Canberra. Department of Environment and promote regeneration of native plants Resource Management, Brisbane. listed threatened species. One of these (like fire does), that it can introduce new http://www.environment.gov.au/cgi-bin/sprat/ - the endangered Kroombit tinkerfrog public/publicspecies.pl?taxon_id=1656#threats and spread existing weeds, and that (Taudactylus pleione) - is likely to be http://www.environment.gov.au/cgi-bin/sprat/ cattle damage sensitive riparian and public/publicspecies.pl?taxon_id=64440#threats susceptible to trampling and increased wetland areas. http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/managing/plans- nutrient loads resulting from grazing strategies/statements/pdf/bania.pdf in, and upstream of, habitat areas. Postscript http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/managing/plans- strategies/statements/pdf/nour-nour.pdf Another - the vulnerable Squatter As this edition of Protected goes to Pigeon (Geophaps scripta scripta) - is print, NPAQ is seeking advice on one threatened by loss and fragmentation of habitat due to clearing for agriculture and the degradation of habitat by overgrazing by cattle and sheep. Nour Nour National Park 3 leases covering 3,771 ha (75% of Park). Leases issued from 1972 to 2006 for periods of 15-50 years. Nour Nour National Park, west of Bundaberg, was also a product of the South East Queensland Forests Squatter pigeons (Geoff Walker) 7 PARK IN F CUS Carnarvon National Park

Denis McMullen, NPAQ Member

Rearing high over the surrounding drives great clefts into the precipice Rufous bettong. A long list of fish, long- plains of Queensland’s Brigalow Belt, sandstone forming the gorges and their finned eels, 22 species of amphibians the , 240kms north towering cliffs, which sometimes rise to including the Tusked and Eastern of Roma in Central Queensland, sits more than 200 metres. Sedge frogs, geckoes and skinks are astride the high country of the Dividing all part of this zoological epicentre. The Park provides the source for five Range. A vast sandstone plateau, Then there are the birds - 210 species major river systems - the Comet, riven by water into gorges, it has recorded to date, as well as over 20 Dawson, Maranoa, Nogoa and provided a refuge for people since species of bats. Warrego. Water, topography and time immemorial. After the miles of geology conspire to create a unique Carnarvon has a very long history of dusty flat brown landscape, cleared environment, a vast time capsule where indigenous occupation, with the of trees under the terms imposed by relics of Australia’s rainforest past linger and Karingbal people having close ties Governments for pastoral leases, the on. Carnarvon Creek’s 30km sinuous during the period prior to colonisation. Carnarvon Range rises majestic and journey through the Gorge is fed by Excavation at Kenniff Cave (named for mysterious. We creep up to it, dwarfed numerous springs and tributaries which a notorious cattle duffer and convicted on the plain. This is a place with a long drain from narrow side chasms, dark murderer) on Mount Moffatt shows and sometimes terrible history; a place and choked with mosses and ferns. that a long utilisation of silcrete for the that does not impart its secrets readily Casuarinas and Cabbage Tree Palms manufacture of tools, scrapers and to its 65,000 annual visitors. line sections of the creek, some being cutting blades dating back more than A lot of the Park’s mystique comes the tallest examples of their species. 19,000 years. The Park has wonderful from its geology and hydrology. examples of stencil rock art and The cycad (Macrozamia moorei) and Different layers of stone, laid down over carvings which can be viewed at the Art the Carnarvon Fan Palm (Livistonia millennia, create Carnarvon’s unusual Gallery: nitida) are Carnarvon icons. Both are structure. Stone from the endemic to Central Queensland. The I’m overwhelmed as I stand before a sedimentary formation forms a layer environment of the Gorge and its wall of stencilled hands, many of them that is impermeable and provides a chasms has protected these and other children’s, knowing that they date back base for the Creek. The sandstone species, such as the isolated colony thousands of years. These distant of the cliffs was laid down eons later of King Ferns (Angiopteris evecta) in ochre messages from the past - with as part of the . This is Ward’s Canyon. their repeatedly themes of boomerangs, overlaid by precipice sandstone which emus, kangaroos, and body parts… erodes vertically as well as horizontally, The Carnarvon range is rich in fauna as seems as fresh today as the day they providing the dramatic cliffs for the well, including platypus and echidna, were made. Gorge. This porous sandstone acts and five of Australia’s six species of as a portal for water to enter the Great gliders. Greater, Yellow-bellied, Squirrel, Candid Baker Sugar and Feather-Tailed Gliders can Artesian Basin. Overlaying basalt from Settlement of the area followed be found on guided night spotlighting volcanoes present 35 million years ago, exploration by Leichardt (1872) and tours, their presence betrayed by the provides a cap up to 300 metres thick Mitchell (1874), with the latter imposing scratch marks they leave on tree trunks. that erodes very slowly, protecting the the name ‘Carnarvon’ after a mountain Macropods include the Eastern Grey sandstone that would otherwise erode in Wales. to ground level. Where faults in the kangaroo, wallabies (pretty-faced, basalt occur, water and wind erosion swamp, red-necked), euros and the

8 When you visit Carnarvon, the ultimate The original 65,000 hectare National buffers the park. attraction is the Gorge itself. The Park was gazetted in 1932, but First people involvement in Carnarvon hardest part of the Gorge Walk is since then six other sections have continues today. Indigenous Ranger getting past the tributary gorges and been added. These are - Goodlife, Fred Conway has been recognised as canyons, each with its strikingly different Salvator Rossi, Ka Ka Mundi, Buckland one of this year’s Queensland Greats. vegetation and structure. Some, like Tableland, Mount Moffatt, and Fred is an Indigenous Elder and tireless the Moss Garden, have trails which Moolayember, bringing the expanded advocate for protecting Indigenous pass through tall open eucalypt forest Park to 298,000 hectares. Whilst cultural sites, particularly the rock art before entering patches of remnant this sounds impressive, it should be sites in Carnarvon National Park in rainforest sheltering below towering noted that the Southern Brigalow Belt central Queensland. A ranger with the cliffs. The early sections of the Bioregion, an area described by as a Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service, Gorge, served by an attractive and biodiversity hot spot, has a mere 2.2% Fred has spent the majority of his life well maintained walking path which in protected areas. Carnarvon makes helping people understand Aboriginal crosses the creek many times leading up more than half of this figure. history and culture, and to respect and up to the Art Gallery, are well known to The difficulties associated with protect rock art sites. visitors who come to the Park, as are accessing these areas means that the extensive views of the range and Fred has also been instrumental in much of what they have to offer is surrounding plains from the heights of developing and ensuring the success inaccessible. This is not necessarily Boolimba Bluff. But Carnarvon is far of a unique program for Queensland— a bad thing as the area is rich with more than its Gorge. the Seasonal Indigenous Ranger Indigenous sacred sites, rock art program. This program trains young galleries and burial places, and its Indigenous people and allows them to vast size makes proper conservation return to country, gain employment and unfeasible. The mysteries of these have a meaningful involvement in the places will, perhaps, be one day management of their traditional lands. thoroughly researched, properly With the program’s success, damage conserved and documented with to rock art has declined as visitors the involvement and consent of the understand and respect the national traditional owners. Determined visitors park’s cultural history. to Mount Moffatt can visit the towering columns and swirling sandstone Accommodation at the Park is limited. sculptures that nature has fashioned. There is camping on-site which is at the mouth of the Gorge, but this is only In recent years, the national park open during the Queensland school has been complemented by Bush holidays. Wilderness Heritage’s purchase of the 59,000 Lodge ([email protected]) hectare Carnarvon Station. It’s and Takarakka Camping Lodge (www. mountain-protected plains nestle within takarakka.com.au) provide lodge-style the sweep of the Carnarvon Range, accommodation, cabins, safari-tents, filling about half of the southern valley. caravan spaces and camping. March This property extends protection to Part of the Art Gallery at Carnarvon National Park to October is the peak season. (Paul Donatiu) fertile valleys and grasslands and

9 FEATURED WALK Tracks near the Palmerston Highway, Far North Queensland A northern legacy of one man’s dream Peter Stanton, NPAQ Member

North Johnstone lookout track the narrow winding forest-shadowed The track begins at Crawford’s Palmerston Highway. The park was Lookout on the northern side of the Distance: 4.4km return greatly expanded in the 1980’s, Palmerston Highway, 33km from Altitude Difference: 320m fall and today is part of the 79,500ha Innisfail. It descends by a graded over 2.2km Wooroonooran National Park (which walking track a total of 320m in also includes Bellenden Ker). 2.2km to the bank of the North Suitable for fit walkers, families Johnstone River, and returns by the Within Wooroonooran is some of same route. At 1.5km it divides, with teenagers. Queensland’s grandest scenery, with a track breaking off sharply to Romeo Lahey had a dream for mostly hidden and largely the right leading to the river, and of a inaccessible to all but the hardiest the other ending, after 250m, at the high quality graded walking track bushwalkers. Here you can find North Johnstone Lookout. system that provided easy access the upper reaches of four of to its natural wonders for people Queensland’s largest perennial It provides an opportunity to of all ages. A major push during streams, its highest mountains, experience one of the few remaining the 1930’s saw the design and and some of its most beautiful virgin stands of endangered Complex construction of most of the significant landscapes. To the casual visitor Mesophyll Vine Forest. According tracks in the park. Their survival who wants to gain some appreciation to the renowned rainforest ecologist, today, after 70 years of heavy of the vastness and inspiring beauty the late Geoff Tracey, this area use and the onslaught of run-off of this wilderness, the only option is represents the optimum development from heavy rain events, stands as to walk the descent from Crawford’s of rainforest in Australia under testament to Lahey’s engineering Lookout to the banks of the North the most favourable conditions of design skills, and the quality of Johnstone River via a graded walking climate and soil on the tropical humid construction. Tracks of a similar track. lowlands. standard were eventually extended to some other parks in Southeast Queensland, such as the . Far North Queensland was largely by-passed by this activity. Its parks, with the exception of Bellenden Ker National Park, were small and few in number. Access points to the large park were few and the granite derived soils and topography did not lend themselves easily to high quality track construction. Attention was focused on the basalt landscape of Palmerston National Park, the main purpose of which was protection of the scenic features associated with North Johnstone River at track terminus (Peter Stanton) 10 Unfortunately, most of the rainforest suddenly stilled by a placid wide entrance being another 800m along on the slopes above the North stream extending as far to the north the highway at the Henrietta Creek Johnstone Lookout has been as the eye can follow. camping area. This is also the entry smashed by the devastating winds point for a 6km long circuit which The grandeur of the river and of three severe tropical cyclones - provides access to Nandroya Falls its enclosing mountains can be Winifred (1986), Larry (2006) and on Douglas Creek, which tumbles best appreciated from the North Yasi (2011). The legacy of those 50m over a basalt wall, and some Johnstone Lookout. Below it, storms has been an open canopy further small falls downstream from Douglas Creek joins the river, and trees with many broken large there. approaching it at a sharp angle, and branches. Many of these trees separated from it along its last 150m however, are of impressive stature by a narrow knife-like 120m tall More Information: http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/ with trunk diameters of 2m or more, basalt ridge. parks/great-walks-sunshine-coast/ and canopy heights of 45-55m. One may wish to explore the river, The branch of the track that and that could easily occupy the descends to the river travels another bounds of a wonderful day, but a 700m via a series of aluminum casual return trip would not occupy and concrete steps, which provide more than a few hours, leaving a challenge for the less fit on time to explore some or all of the the return journey. It traverses remaining track system accessible forest little affected by cyclones from the highway. and of high aesthetic quality, with an open understory under tall, There was, until recently, an sometimes spectacularly buttressed interconnected system that explored trees. Above the uneven canopy, some of the features of Henrietta emergent’s rise 60m and more. and Douglas Creeks which run, The track reaches the river at the for much of their length, parallel to southern extremity of a U-shaped the highway. The widening and bend, where large trees provide realignment of this road, completed shade to the margins of its 100m in the 1980’s, truncated the system wide rocky bed. in one location, and over 4km of track from the North Johnstone This is the only access point along Lookout back to the highway at the the 25km length of the gorge of the Wallicher Falls entrance has been North Johnstone River, the track permanently closed. The main series reaching the river about a kilometre of interconnected tracks can now downstream from where it breaks be accessed at the Wallicher Falls free of spectacular sheer cliffs that entrance about 2km west along the rise up to 350m from the river bed. highway from Crawford’s Lookout, a At this point, the nature of the river further 2km to Gooligan Creek picnic changes as it breaks free of its Nandroya Falls (Paul Donatiu) area, with the main and most central rocky base along a line of cataracts

11 WILDLIFE FEATURE Collared Delma

Michelle Shaul, Contributor

If among the leaf litter of SEQ’s What is the difference between a Parks in central Qld and as far south eucalypt woodlands you legless lizard and snake? as the NSW border. Similar to many stumble upon a small curious- There are three key identifiers that other native species, habitat loss and will let you know whether you are degradation threatens the Collared looking creature that looks like looking at a snake or a legless Delma’s population base, which is lizard: their eyes, ears and tongue. something between a large scattered and small in number. The 1. Unlike snakes with their iconic worm and a small snake, you species is listed as vulnerable both in forked tongues, legless lizards have may have found a Collared a fleshy tongue. Queensland and nationally. Delma. 2. Lizards have moveable eyelids, Given the Collared Delma’s specific Growing to around 15 cm and whereas snakes have transparent habitat requirements, it is acutely scales that cover their eyes. weighing two grams, the Collared sensitive to disturbance. The 3. While over time snakes have Delma (Delma torquata) is the smallest species favours eucalypt woodlands lost their external ears, all species of the legless lizards. They have a of legless lizard have external ear and open forest where rocks, leaf distinctive black head with golden openings. litter, logs, bark, and other woody bands that contrast with the reddish- particular gusto for small roaches. debris are plentiful for shelter. This brown colouring of the back and the type of microhabitat is vulnerable In Southeast Queensland, the Collared bluish-grey flush to their belly and tail. to degradation by compaction and Delma’s range is largely concentrated overgrazing from cattle, poor fire The Delma’s evolutionary history is in Brisbane’s western suburbs of regimes and invasive weed species. evident in the two small scaly hind Kenmore, Pinjarra Hills, Anstead, As a result, even those Collared limb flaps, leftover from it’s legged Mt Crosby, Lake Manchester and Delmas that have made their homes ancestors. Like other legless lizards, Karana Downs. However, it has been in protected areas such as Expedition the Collared Delma’s tail is twice as found as far north as the Blackdown National Park are still at risk while cattle long as it’s body and can be regrown Tablelands and Expedition National grazing is permitted within them. if cut or cast-off. It has a short, blunt snout and external ear openings. The Collared Delma might be considered somewhat of a hermit; they live long, solitary lives (around 5 years) and tend to stay burrowed and safe in the shelter of leaf litter, soil cracks or under a favoured rock or log. You will most likely see them wriggling about during the day or in warm weather, which is when they are most active. While this species of Delma is very selective about where it chooses to make its home it’s certainly not a fussy eater, feasting on a range of insects, spiders, termites and ant eggs – with a Collared Delma (Robert Ashdown - www.robertashdown.com/blog) 12 THE NATIONAL PARK EXPERIENCE why national parks should be valued, told through the lens of personal experience in national parks Jim Stebbins, NPAQ Honorary Life Member

Growing up An odd thing happened … twice. Life was busy. We had moved to I grew up in Cronulla, Sydney. As a When I was 31 years old my wife Bev Melbourne. I wanted to be more out child and teenager I often visited Royal and I, and our two small children, there – in our National Parks – the National Park (which you could see moved from our life in Canberra to bush, the mountains, the landscape, from our street across Burraneer Bay Pasadena California, so I could study the trees, the beaches. But, how to and Port Hacking) for family picnics at for a masters degree. On the way to do that? It did not quite get to the one of the picnic areas along Waterfall the U.S. we stopped over in Hawaii for happening page very much. Creek, hiking from Bundeena to Marley, a week, which could be done without and riding my bike through the National extra airfare cost – a few days each on The solution Park. My grandparents had a one- Oahu, and the island of Hawaii. We After a few years in Melbourne I joined bedroom cottage on the edge of the stayed at Volcano House, on the rim of the Victorian National Parks Association bush at Leura in the Blue Mountains the Kilauea caldera. I was up close and and, at last, started bushwalking and several times a year I would be personal with an active volcano, and regularly. That is the best way to there. I liked to walk out to some of the with scenery the likes of which I had experience our National Parks – onsite lookouts along the cliff edge with the never seen. We flew on to Los Angeles up close and personal, alive and open Jamison Valley below. While I enjoyed and became busy, getting on with what to all that is there. the beach and the bush I did not yet we had come to do. realize their significance to me. Life got How to do it? Get it in the diary - then busy with other things. But then another odd thing happened, that day, or weekend, was booked. totally unexpected. Whilst our agenda That worked. I had a prior commitment. for being in Pasadena was going well, after a few months I became So, why do I value our National Parks? homesick.....desperately homesick for Because I love being there. I feel better Australia – the gum trees, the beaches, for being there. I miss being there the bush, the mountains. Our agenda when for a while I am not there. That is for being in Pasadena was going how it is. well and yet. We visited many of the National Parks in the western half of Postscript the U.S. especially in California – twice When we moved to Brisbane I joined to Yosemite. Two years later we were the National Parks Association of back in Australia and I was putting my Queensland. To any of you who are study to use. busy, getting it in the diary is the way to actually experience our National But then unexpectedly, I became Parks. And along the way I have come homesick, desperately homesick, for to understand that there are also some the U.S./ California – the desert, the other good reasons for why we have mountains, the National Parks, the National Parks. trees, the beaches. Jim Stebbins became an Honorary Life Member with NPAQ in 2014, and was the Association’s Honorary Secretary from 2005 to 2013. Jim is known for his great heart, passion for, and unfailing Rugged coastline and wind-swept heath at Royal The problem commitment to national parks. National Park (Paul Donatiu)

13 F Boombana to Jollys Ï Vegetation WHAT’S Lookout Walk Management Group Wednesday 27 May Saturday 20 June Location: Brisbane area Location: Brisbane area N Grading: Easy, 4km Leaders: Angus McElnea, Russell Gardner Leader: Len and Laurelle Lowry Tackle even more lantana with a great Fee: $3 (members), $10 (non-members) revegetation program at Boombana/Jollys Lookout, D’Aguilar National Park! This is a great little walk down the Thylogale track with the opportunity to extend the walk NPAQ Activities by incorporating the Egernia Circuit for the Æ Birding at Lake G Mountain Bike Ride energetic! Samsonvale Saturday 9 May Sunday 21 June Location: Sunshine Coast hinterland F Cunninghams Gap Location: Bullocky Rest, NW Brisbane Grading: Intermediate, 15km Challenge Grading: Easy Leaders: Athol and Maria Lester Sunday 7 June Leader: Jocelyn Dixon Fee: $3 (members), $10 (non-members) Location: Fee: $3 (members), $10 (non-members) A relatively relaxed bike ride through some Grading: Intermediate/challenging, 15km This wonderful and peaceful lake is a gem amazing back roads of Benarkin and Googa for birdwatchers. State Forests. The ride covers part of the Leader: Athol Lester Brisbane Valley Rail Trail from Benarkin Fee: NPAQ Fundraising Event - donation to Blackbutt along forestry tracks, then required F Eye on Indooroopilly returning to Benarkin. Reliable mountain Come and experience the heart stopping bike required. Great coffee and wildlife excitement of following in the footsteps of Heritage Trail stops planned. one of SEQs earliest European explorers. Wednesday 24 June Allan Cunningham set out to explore the Location: Brisbane area area to the west of Moreton Bay in 1827, Ï Vegetation crossing to the west of the Great Dividing Grading: Easy, 2.7km Management Group Range from the Hunter Region and travelling Leader: Jennifer Parker north. In June 1827, he climbed to the Fee: $3 (members), $10 (non-members) Saturday 23 May top of Mount Dumaresq and after wrote in Location: Brisbane area his diary that this lush area was ideal for This Trail takes you to sites and events that have shaped Indooroopilly’s history, Leaders: Angus McElnea, Russell Gardner settlement. Cunningham also climbed from his camp near Swanfels to the lateral ridge including early European settlement; the Tackle lantana with a great revegetation which extends west from near Spicers Peak Albert and Walter Taylor Bridges; war- program at Boombana/Jollys Lookout, and from here confirmed his position by time activity during WWII and the historic D’Aguilar National Park. taking bearings on Flinders Peak and Mt commercial centre along Station Road. Warning. In the process, he discovered both F r Mount Cunninghams and Spicers Gaps. For more information, or to register for an By following his footsteps we can clearly activity, please go to the website - Tibberoowuccum, see that Cunningham correctly recorded www.npaq.org.au/events Trachyte Track and both Gaps. Swim The view to the east to Cunninghams second observation point (Athol Lester) Saturday 23 May Location: Sunshine Coast hinterland Grading: Intermediate, 8.6km Leader: Mary Anne Ryan Fee: $3 (members), $10 (non-members) Climb Mt Tibberoowuccum for excellent views and follow the Trachyte Track and the Tibbrogargan Circuit before cooling off at the coast.

Æ Birding at Dan Stiller Reserve Sunday 24 May Location: Forestdale, Brisbane Grading: Easy Leader: Geraldine Buchanan Fee: $3 (members), $10 (non-members) This Reserve has so much to offer birdwatchers with 43 species seen and heard previously.

14 Upcoming Activities NPAQ Events Letter to the Ï Vegetation Project Wild Thing Editor Management Group Saturday 16 May Saturday 18 July Location: NPAQ Office, 36 Finchley Street I would like to add my perspective to the Milton from 7.30pm (donations welcome) issue of grazing in our National Parks. I This social evening will feature a screening live next to Warro National Park in Central Æ Birding at Tingalpa of the filmProject Wild Thing and discussion Queensland. Reservoir over cheese and nibbles (BYO) about When we moved here in early 1991, Warro encouraging children to experience the Sunday 19 July was still a State Forest, with the grazing outdoors. lease being held by a local family. We used to wonder even then why there didn’t seem Ï Vegetation NPAQ Quarterly to be any control over stocking rates as the Member Meeting area was constantly overgrazed. Wandering Management Group Wednesday 20 May hungry cattle from the lease were (and still Saturday 22 August are) a regular problem for neighbours and Location: Mt Coot-tha Botanic Gardens local road users. Auditorium from 7.45pm F Mount Maroon Structured meetings provide members There was talk of the Forest becoming a with a quarterly update on the Association. national park and finally, in the mid 2000’s, Saturday 29 August Discussions can involve matters of strategic it became Warro National Park. To our direction and member feedback. surprise though, the leaseholder was given a new lease which was to expire late last Æ Extended Bird Presentation for May: Activities Committee year. Convenor, Athol Lester, will provide an Activity to Capricorn entertaining talk on the recent Camel Trek in About the same time, we sold all our cattle Coast the Northern Flingers Ranges. due to my partner’s serious illness. We were then unexpectedly able to watch Monday 31 August to Saturday 12 our property recover from a long history of September Royal Flying Doctor grazing. It has been an amazing change to Service witness. From the tops of the trees to the Ï Wednesday 17 June remarkable world in the grasses and shrubs, Vegetation Location: Mt Coot-tha Botanic Gardens and at every level in between, there is now Management Group Auditorium from 7.45pm an abundance of life… such a variety of Saturday 19 September A social and topics of interest evening with birds, insects, reptiles, animals, all that we Janine Gardner covering the history of the rarely saw while we had cattle. Royal Flying Doctor Service and how the At the same time, Warro has been grazed Æ Birding at Oxley organisation delivers 24-hour emergency constantly. This has allowed some serious Creek Common services and health care within the Qld erosion to develop, weeds to take over, community. especially lantana. What grasses and Sunday 20 September understory there is, is thin, weedy, and open Kaputar and the with little habitat for any native wildlife. Even Warrumbungles with the good summer rains we have had, Wednesday 15 July there are still patches of bare soil which erode easily. Location: Mt Coot-tha Botanic Gardens Auditorium from 7.45pm Fast forward to today… The lease that expired last year was replaced by a A social and topics of interest evening with “temporary” lease which seems to have NPAQ member Stewart Parker who will no term so the grazing continues. And if speak about his 2011 adventure to Kaputar you were to stand on the fenceline with and the Warrumbungles. me between Warro and our property, you’d be forgiven for thinking Warro looked like a poorly managed cattle paddock and our place like the Park. It’s very clear to me now that cattle have no place in any National Calendar Dates Park for any reason. International Migratory Bird Day Ariel Chaster 9 May www.birdday.org Significant, Veteran and Scar Tree workshop JOIN, DONATE, or 22 May SUBSCRIBE to NPAQ www.theca.asn.au or 07 3878 5088 World Environment Day 5 June www.unep.org/wed World Oceans Day www.npaq.org.au 8 June www.un.org/en/events/oceansday/ 15 16