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La Historia De Elbulli

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La historia de elBulli La historia de elBulli Our story from 1961 to 2011 [ 1961-1982 ] los orígenes 1961. Todo empezó con un minigolf... 1963. ...que luego fue un chiringuito. 1964. El primer restaurante. 1 [ 1961-1982 ] origins 1961. It all began with a minigolf installation... 1963. ...which later became a beach bar. 1964. The first restaurant. 1970-1975. An ever-increasing choice. 1975-1980. The Neichel era. 1981. The arrival of Juli Soler. 1961-1982. Some menus of the time. 1961-1982. Anecdotes of the time. 1961-2006. The various stages of elBulli and those running it. 2 [ 1961-1982 ] los orígenes 1961. It all began with a minigol installation... Doctor Hans Schilling a !erman homeo"athic doctor and his wife #ar$etta %&echoslovakian in origin but !erman b' ado"tion came to (oses at the end of the )*+,s and having fallen in love with %ala #ont-oi the' decided to bu' a "iece of land there. The setting for the building that the doctor and #ar$etta occu"ied is a hundred metres u"hill from where the restaurant was to be located. #rs Schilling was alread' serving meals before the establishment existed organizing barbecues in the o"en air which at times was frowned on. At that "oint our lin$ with the stor' begins with a "lanning "ermission licence for a minigolf installation dated June )*/). The name chosen for their business 0which came into use at some unspecified time1 was 2l Bulli since the Schillings had some 3rench bulldogs a breed collo4uially known as "bulli". 3 [ 1961-1982 ] los orígenes 1963. ...whi!h later be!ame a bea!h bar. 3or -ust over a 'ear 2l Bulli o"erated as a minigolf installation but ver' soon because of %ala #ont-oi6s "o"ularit' as a scuba diving location for 2uro"ean enthusiasts who were in the area the Schillings installed a beach bar. José 8ozano from %ordoba who has been in the area since the beginning built a thatched hut which served as a meeting "oint for bathers and scuba divers and was known in (oses as the 5!erman bar". 4 [ 1961-1982 ] los orígenes 1964. "he irst resta#rant. In )*/9 after a kitchen and a covered "atio which doubled as a dining area were built a !rill-room was installed in 2l Bulli which was run b' :tto #;ller from Swit&erland until )*//. This was the first restaurant. 3rom that 'ear on various "eo"le ran the "lace that served sim"le dishes such as roast chic$en leg of lamb and grilled fish. !raduall' more elaborate dished a""eared on the menu thanks to Doctor Schilling6s interest in gastronom'< the doctor who spent most of the 'ear in !erman' used to go to the continent6s finest restaurants from which he would bring ideas that were graduall' ado"ted in subse4uent 'ears. 5 [ 1961-1982 ] los orígenes 1970-1975. $n e%er-in!reasing !hoi!e. 3rom )*=, onwards 2l Bulli went from strength to strength as a restaurant. #an' more 3rench dishes began to be served including flamb7ed sea-bass with fennel "rawns in >ernod double entrecôte with b7arnaise sauce and emincé of beef Stroganoff. @henever Dr Schilling returned to (oses in the autumn he was alwa's "leased to see the "rogress made in the restaurant under #ar$etta and each time he would bring new ideas items including "roducts that were difficult to im"ort at that time. 6 [ 1961-1982 ] los orígenes 1975-1980. "he &ei!hel era. The arrival of Jean-8ouis Neichel in )*=+ changed 2l Bulli6s wa' of working and brought new "erspectives that were to be consolidated over the 'ears< in )*=/ 2l Bulli was awarded its first #ichelin star. During the winter closure months Dr Schilling encouraged his chef to visit great 2uro"ean restaurants and negotiated a stint for Neichel to wor$ with the great Alain %ha"el whose restaurant La mère Charles held the guide6s highest accolade. Subse4uent seasons6 offerings were clearl' mar$ed b' these influences. 7 [ 1961-1982 ] los orígenes 1981. "he arri%al o '#li (oler. At the end of the )*A, season Neichel decided to move to Barcelona and a little later Juli Soler arrived to ta$e over the management of 2l Bulli. Juli a""ointed Bves Cramer Neichel6s assistant as head chef. The same 'ear Jean->aul Dina' was ta$en on as Cramer6s assistant although after a few months they e.changed roles and Dinay became head chef. a ro!) an in *ont+oi. In late December I came to sta' for a few da's with a friend Silvia the owner of the Barbarossa. :ne da' while having a coffee in the bar La Sirena I was introduced to #ar$etta. I had met her once before when I had gone to have a meal in 2l Bulli with Silvia. #ar$etta told me that the' would be renewing their squad the following 'ear because Jean-8ouis Neichel their chef and manager was thinking of moving to Barcelona. As the future of the establishment was in some doubt I was offered the -ob of manager. Strangel' enough this was the same da' I received another offer from a new restaurant L’Antull owned b' the >erellE famil' -ust next door to La Sirena. #ar$etta filled me in with all the details and we fi.ed an a""ointment for an interview with her husband Dr Schilling for )F noon December F+th in cala #ont-oi. I had only been to the cala a cou"le of times. The road was "itted with bum"s and "otholes. The tele"hone line was often down and there were fre4uent "ower cuts. It was rather a blea$ area not sheltered li$e it is toda' but I did not thin$ twice about disa""earing from the ma" the ma" I had charted out for m'self at that time. It was a big change for me and the thought of running one of the best restaurants in %atalonia gave me the strength to face u" to the challenge. The night before the a""ointment %hristmas 2ve was as festive as ever. The next morning I was su""osed to get u" at ), to go to 2l Bulli but "unctualit' has never been m' strong "oint and it was nearl' noon when I wo$e u". So I went haring off to the road u" to cala #ont-oi. I was wearing a shee"skin coat and although it was December the sun was baking. I wal$ed u" the road a bundle of nerves. G" and u" I went< after two kilometers I breathlessl' went "ast the Dolmen and two kilometers further on the Torre del Sastre. @hen I reached the "oint of exhaustion a Seat )+,, came round the bend and I cadged a lift. And that is how I came to the 5Hacienda 2l Bulli5< 'ears later as soon as I could I registered the name 5(estaurante 2l Bulli5 as I had never li$ed the 5Hacienda5 "art. As soon as I went in there were #ar$etta and her husband waiting for me. After the usual introductions the' suggested we all tr' the New Bear6s 2ve set meal that Neichel was "re"aring. @hile we were eating I soon realised that what Dr Schilling was interested in more than the business was gastronom' itself focusing on en-oyment at the table accom"anied by e.haustive $nowledge seeking at all times to offer the diner moments of intense "leasure. At that time a table at 2l Bulli was alread' different to tables in other restaurants in S"ain. 2ven the cutler' glassware and china were im"orted from !erman' and drew their ins"iration from the great restaurants of the time belonging to Alain %ha"el Jac4ues >ic and so on. The service consideration H in short the wa' the restaurant was run were also based on these models. The doctor seemed to li$e m' "lain- speaking e."lanation of how as far as I was concerned the most im"ortant thing was for "eo"le to have a good time and that the' also $new how to do so. However m' worldl' wisdom and e."erience of fine food and wines and even knowledge of the trade were not u" to "ar even for a beginner. So I 8 told him and the Doctor suggested I do two months of intensive travelling visiting the best restaurants in 3rance Belgium and !erman'. :n m' return in the middle of #arch )*A) I was ready to face my first season as manager. And right at the start something odd ha""ened. That 'ear our o"ening coincided with Hol' @ee$ and we were full' boo$edI a large number of 3rench and !ermans together with good customers from 862m"ordJ and Barcelona meant that we had to hang the 5(eservations :nl'5 notice on the door. :n one of these da's some customers from >er"ignan came fairl' "er"le.ed telling us that we no longer a""eared in the #ichelin !uide. 5That6s im"ossible5 I said. The' amiabl' challenged me to fetch a guide and see for m'self It was m' lot therefore to go to 3igueres and find a well- stoc$ed booksho" with the #ichelin !uide. And it was true. At that time the restaurant was full ever' da' and we would end u" tired out. But on 2aster Sunda' I invited #ar$etta to go to >aris with me.
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