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20Noviembre08-INTERNACIONAL (Page 1) ? Expansión, jueves 20 de noviembre de 2008 EMPRESAS Vencedores y vencidos en los fogones ■ Sergi Arola logra mantener ■ Andrés Madrigal abrió hace ■ Hilario Arbelaitz,asesor de El ■ La compostela Toñi Vicente ■ De vocación investigadora, ■ En el Hotel Confortel sus dos estrellas Michelin,tras dos años el restaurante Bodegón en Madrid (que paga con la pérdida de una Jordi Herrera logra su primer Valencia,Javier Andrés dejar La Broche y romper con Alboroque,en el proyecto gestiona Vips),pierde una estrella el ‘efecto vieira’;fue ‘premio’en Manairó,el local Salvador oficia en Vertical Occidental,en Sergi Arola- empresarial Casa Palacio de distinción en su restaurante llamada a declarar ante el de Barcelona donde ha hecho (gestionado por Loles Gastro,donde el 32% de los Atocha.El local consigue guipuzcoano Zuberoa,que juez por comprar moluscos a míticas sus carnes y pescados Salvador,de La Sucursal), gastos son de personal. ahora su primera estrella. se queda con una sola. mariscadores furtivos. en parrilla de clavos. donde obtiene una estrella. LOS CHEFS ESTIMAN EN UN 40% EL AUMENTO DE LOS COSTES DE GESTIÓN DE SUS ESTABLECIMIENTOS PARA AJUSTARSE A LOS CRITERIOS DE LOS INSPECTORES FRANCESES ¡Quíteme ese Michelin del balance! La tradicional tacañería de la guía roja, que en su edición de 2009 otorga quince nuevas distinciones a los restaurantes españoles y que vuelve a optar por castigar el éxito internacional de la cocina ‘made in Spain’,sitúa la galaxia nacional con 130 estrellas. MARTA FERNÁNDEZ.Madrid El ránking culinario de 2009 lla Michelin es una inversión Es abogado, pero en sus ratos rentable o un coste injustifica- libres trabaja como gastroins- do? Chefs y restauradores esti- f o pector. Tiene un presupuesto El resultado anual (en n. de restaurantes españoles con estrella Michelin) man entre un 20% y un 40% el relativamente ajustado, asig- Diferencia aumento de los gastos operati- nado por la Guía Michelin pa- 2009 2008 neta Novedades vos de un restaurante para ra visitar restaurantes que los ajustarse a las pautas de Mi- Con tres estrellas 6 6 0 Ninguno nuevo lectores del manual culinario chelin. “Aspirar a una estrella Con dos estrellas 9 10 -1 Zuberoa (Oiartzun, Guipúzcoa) pierde su segunda estrella y La Broche (Madrid) se queda sin francés proponen cada año. En exige perfeccionar dos que tenía, que se trasladan al nuevo local del que era su chef hasta principios de 2008: sus manos y en la de una dece- el servicio de sala, Sergi Arola, que en febrero de este año inauguró Sergi Arola-Gastro (Madrid) na de colegas, está el veredicto invertir en vajilla, acerca de los cocineros espa- Con una estrella 115 108 7 Hay quince estrellas nuevas y nueve restaurantes que la pierden ampliar la bodega ñoles. ¿O, quizás, no tanto? TOTAL 130 124 6 y embellecer el En su edición de 2009, que cuarto de baño”, el fabricante de neumáticos f La guía desgrana un chef, publica hoy, la Guía Michelin que cree que “la Restaurante Ubicación Cocinero otorga 15 nuevas estrellas a res- apuesta puede salir taurantes españoles, retira 9 y ★ Con tres estrellas bien y la inversión recorta de dos a una la califica- Arzak San Sebastián Juan Mari Arzak compensarse con el ción de Zuberoa, de Hilario Martín Berasategui Lasarte (San Sebastián) Martín Berasategui aumento de comensa- Arbelaitz, en Oiartzun (Gui- El Bulli Roses (Girona) Ferran Adrià les, o puede ser un de- púzcoa). Este año, los inspec- Can Fabes Sant Celoni (Barcelona) Santi Santamaría sastre para el balance de tores del manual galo no con- Sant Pau Sant Pol de Mar (Barcelona) Carmen Ruscalleda un local”. Zaranda, en Ma- ceden a ningún local la máxi- Akelarre San Sebastián Pedro Subijana drid, es un ejemplo. Su chef, ma calificación: las tres estre- ★ Con dos estrellas Fernando Pérez Arellano, llas, que siguen en manos de Tristán Portals Nous (Mallorca) Gerhard Schwaiger abrió a finales de 2005 con la sólo seis chefs en España, Àbac Barcelona Xavier Pellicer obsesión de tener una estrella, Atrio Cáceres Toño Pérez que logró once meses después Arola logra ‘mudar’ El Poblet Denia, Alicante Quique Dacosta y mantuvo tras cambiar de lo- Mugaritz Rentería, San Sebastián Andoni Luis Adúriz cal en 2007. Hoy, sigue lleno. sus dos estrellas de La El Celler de Can Roca Girona Joan, Josep y Jordi Roca Sergi Arola abandonó en Broche a su nuevo Santceloni Madrid Óscar Velasco* enero La Broche, en el madrile- local,ideado bajo el La Alquería, Hacienda Benazuza Sanlúcar la Mayor (Sevilla) Rafael Morales** ño Hotel Miguel Ángel (tras Sergi Arola-Gastro (N) Madrid Sergi Arola romper su acuerdo con Occi- ‘concepto Michelin’ (N) Es el único resturante nuevo que obtiene dos estrellas Michelin en la edición de 2009 de la guía francesa. dental), para abrir Sergi Arola- Gastro, con la vista puesta en ★ Los recién galardonados con una estrella (1) mientras en Francia casi una Boroa Amorebieta-Etxano (Bilbao) Javier García Michelin. Con un menú degus- treintena de cocineros disfruta L’Aliança d’Anglès Anglès (Girona) Lluis Feliu tación de 120 euros, el chef tele- de este triestrellato. Cinc Sentits Barcelona Jordi Artal visivo ha logrado mudar sus Con su decisión, repleta de Manairó Barcelona Jordi Herrera dos estrellas en La Broche (que notables ausencias, la guía roja L’Angle (Hotel Món) Sant Fruitós del Bages (Barcelona) Jordi Cruz las pierde) a su nuevo local. sitúa España con 130 estrellas, Els Tinars Llagostera (Girona) Eduardo Gascons lejos de las 227 concedidas an- Alboroque Madrid Andrés Madrigal Motor en marcha teayer por Michelin a Tokio. Skina Marbella (Málaga) Víctor Trochi / Daniel Rosado Con 108 años En España, el motor económi- Sólo la ciudad japonesa (con El Nuevo Molino Puente Arce (Cantabria) José Antonio González co culinario seguía ayer fun- 160.000 restaurantes) tiene Pepe Vieira Raxó, Poio (Pontevedra) Xosé Cannas de historia cionando. El Ministerio de In- más del doble de distinciones Abantal Sevilla Julio Fernández Quintero dustria, Turismo y Comercio que París. España se sitúa por Valdepalacios Torrico (Toledo) Ismael Delgado* En 1900,nació la Guía Michelin en firmó un convenio con la Cá- detrás de Francia y Alemania Riff Valencia Bernd Knöller Francia.Hoy,tiene ediciones en tedra Ferran Adrià de Cultura en número de premios. Vertical (Hotel Confortel) Valencia Javier Andrés Salvador Tokio (Asia es mercado clave para Gastronómica para impulsar ¿Intención de desmerecer el Bal d'Onsera Zaragoza Josechu Corella el grupo de neumáticos) y Nueva proyectos en educación e in- gastromilagro español? Entre York,donde este año la guía ha vestigación. Con el chef cata- ★ Los establecimientos que pierden la estrella (2) cocineros y gastrónomos, ya hecho un guiño a la crisis,con una lán presente, Industria dio un Zuberoa (3) Oiartzun (Guipúzcoa) Hilario Arbelaitz no sorprende la histórica taca- lista de 58 restaurantes de dato: más de 5 millones de tu- Caelis (Hotel Palace) Barcelona Romain Fornell ñería de la guía gala. “Es incon- Manhattan,Brooklyn y Queens ristas visitan España cada año L’Alezna Caces (Asturias) Pedro Martino gruente que España lidere las para cenar por 40 dólares (32 para realizar alguna actividad El Mesón de Doña Filo Colmenar de Arroyo (Madrid) Julio Reoyo vanguardias culinarias en el euros).Al tiempo que surgen exclusivamente gastronómica. Playa Club La Coruña Jano Blanco mundo y sea castigada por una ránkings que ganan prestigio, ¿Mirarán la Guía Michelin? Fagollaga Hernani (Guipúzcoa) Ixak Salaberría guía que turistas extranjeros y como la revista británica Otros optan por seguir con La Cuina de Can Pipes Mont-Ras (Girona) Ramón Casabayó parte del público español tie- su propia guerra. Santi Santa- L’Esguard Sant Andreu de Llavaneres (Barcelona) Miquel Sánchez Romera Restaurant, Michelin levanta nen como referencia. La envi- Toñi Vicente Santiago de Compostela (La Coruña) Toñi Vicente ampollas de todo tipo.Olivier maria, enfrentado a sus cole- dia francesa es evidente”, afir- Hostal de Sant Salvador La Vall de Bianya (Girona) Joan Borràs Roellinger,del restaurante Les gas, envió ayer a mediodía una ma un restaurador español. Maisons de Bicourt,en Cancale nota autoproclamándose el * Asesorado por Santi Santamaria. ** Asesorado por elBulli-Ferran Adrià. (1) Sólo se citan los restaurantes que han obtenido una estrella en esta edición. (2) El En tiempos de crisis, surge resto de los restaurantes citados en esta lista, a excepción de Zuberoa, pierde la única estrella que tenía. (3) Tenía dos estrellas, pierde una y mantiene otra. (Francia),renunció hace poco a chef español con más estrellas una cuestión: ¿Tener una estre- Fuente: Elaboración a partir de la información facilitada por Michelin sus tres estrellas “para vivir mejor”. Michelin. ¡Que le aproveche!.
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