Spain, Portugal & Mediterranean
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A HIDEAWAY REPORT Spain, Portugal & Mediterranean 2020 Villa Dubrovnik, Croatia Hideaway: A smaller hotel or resort with a distinctive style and character, a tranquil atmosphere and a dedication to personal service. Over four decades, Hideaway Report editors have explored ceaselessly to discover the most charming hotels in the world. While recommenda- tions vary in size, style and location, it is properties of 50 rooms or fewer that are the primary objects of their travels. They search for hideaways that have a profound sense of place. And their evaluations go far beyond simple checklists. Relying on unrivaled experience, they aim to separate the merely excellent from the truly enchanting. So if you are looking for a place where you can leave the world behind and experience something exceptional, then let our editors point the way. ON THE COVER Quinta da Côrte, Douro Valley, Portugal — photo by Jean-Francois Jaussaud CONTENTS ONE Updated February 2020 SPAIN .................................... 6 Madrid..................................... 8 Basque Country ......................... 12 La Rioja & Ribera del Duero ............. 14 Santiago de Compostela ................ 16 Barcelona ................................ 18 Catalonia ................................. 22 Salamanca ............................... 24 Mallorca .................................. 26 Menorca .................................. 28 Valencia .................................. 30 Andalusia ................................ 32 PORTUGAL ............................. 36 Lisbon .................................... 38 Lisbon Area .............................. 42 Coimbra .................................. 44 Porto ..................................... 46 Douro Valley & Northern Portugal ...... 48 The Alentejo ............................. 50 The Algarve .............................. 54 A The number that precedes a hummingbird indicates our rating of a hotel. Our rating scale: 99-100 — a truly great hotel, among the finest of its kind in the world; 96-98 — an exceptional hotel of great individuality and distinction; 93-95 — an outstanding hotel of genuine sophistication; 90- 92 — a fine hotel with considerable charm about which we have minor reservations. P Look for the plus symbol in a hotel listing, which indicates travel benefits to members. ATLANTIC OCEAN FRANCE BAY OF BISCAY SAN SEBASTIÁN SANTIAGO ASTURIAS TABRIA BASQUE DE COMPOSTELA CA N COUNTRY NAVARRA ANDORRA GALICIA LEÓN LA RIOJA GIRONA CASTILLA Y LEÓN CATALONIA ARAGON NORTE VALLADOLID PORTO BARCELONA SALAMANCA DOURO R. MADRID SPAIN COIMBRA CENTRO BALEARIC SEA MENORCA MALLORCA VALENCIA PORTUGAL TOLEDO PALMA COMUNIDAD EXTREMADURA MENORCA SINTRA CASTILLA LA MANCHA VALENCIANA LISBON IBIZA FORMENTERA ALENTEJO COMPORTA CÓRDOBA MURCIA SEVILLE ALGARVE ANDALUSIA GRANADA MEDITERRANEAN SEA FARO MÁLAGA CÁDIZ STRAIT OF GIBRALTAR ATLANTIC OCEAN MOROCCO ALGERIA 0 100 MI 0 100 KM CONTENTS TWO Updated February 2020 SLOVENIA .............................. 56 CROATIA ................................ 58 MONTENEGRO ........................ 62 MALTA ................................... 63 GREECE ................................. 64 Athens .................................... 66 The Peloponnese ........................ 68 Santorini ................................. 70 Crete ..................................... 72 TURKEY ................................. 74 Istanbul .................................. 76 Bodrum................................... 78 Hotel Index ............................... 80 A The number that precedes a hummingbird indicates our rating of a hotel. Our rating scale: 99-100 — a truly great hotel, among the finest of its kind in the world; 96-98 — an exceptional hotel of great individuality and distinction; 93-95 — an outstanding hotel of genuine sophistication; 90- 92 — a fine hotel with considerable charm about which we have minor reservations. P Look for the plus symbol in a hotel listing, which indicates travel benefits to members. POLAND UKRAINE CZECH REPUBLIC RUSSIA GERMANY SLOVAKIA AUSTRIA MOLDOVA SLOVENIA HUNGARY BLED LJUBLJAN A ROMANIA ZAGREB ISTRIA BOSNIA AND SERBIA CROATIA HERZEGOVINA BLACK ANDORRA SPLIT MONTENEGRO SEA KORČULA BULGARIA PODGORICA DUBROVNIK SVETI STEFAN ISTANBUL MACEDONIA ITALY ADRIATIC SEA OF SEA MARMARA TURKEY ALBANIA AEGEAN TURKEY GREECE SEA IZMIR ATHENS BODRUM IONIAN SEA PELOPONNESE SYRIA RHODES SANTORINI CYPRUS SEA OF CRETE MALTA CRETE LEBANON MEDITERRANEAN SEA 0 1OO MI 0 1OO KM ISRAEL ALGERIA LIBYA LIBYA JORDAN EGYPT SAUDI ARABIA Spain pain is an exhilarating place WHEN TO GO in which to travel. Heavy S Spain has three main climatic investment in infrastructure has zones: north, central and Medi- resulted in a high-speed rail link terranean. Galicia, in the coastal that connects Madrid and Barcelona northwest, receives abundant CINOBY / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES in fewer than three hours, while rainfall (June-September are the driest months); Madrid occu- the 190-mph AVE express takes just pies the high central plateau, two and a half hours from Madrid’s which has a relatively moder- Atocha station to the Andalusian ate climate; Seville is 10 to 15 city of Seville. Although much of degrees warmer than Madrid, the Spanish coastline is overbuilt, with July and August being dry the interior is largely unspoiled. but unpleasantly hot. A new generation of chefs has TIME revolutionized Spanish cuisine, and the country can now boast a Six hours ahead of New York (EST). galaxy of Michelin stars, notably in the northwestern Basque region. CURRENCY Spanish wine, too, ranks among the best in the world. The country Euro (€). Fluctuating rate val- ued at €1.00 = US$1.12 as of produces world-class sparkling February 2020. wine (Cava), dry and minerally whites (Albariño), rich and U.S. EMBASSY full-bodied reds (Rioja, Toro) and Madrid, Tel. (34) 91-587-2200. top-quality fortified wines (sherry), Consulate: Barcelona, Tel. (34) depending on the region. 93-280-2227. ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay). Visit travel .state.gov and, for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov. Meadow of marguerites on Mallorca 6 — SPAIN CINOBY / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES Meadow of marguerites on Mallorca HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 7 Madrid tanding at the heart of Madrid WHEN TO GO nut-milk soup with scallops is the Museo Nacional del and flying fish eggs. For des- S Madrid’s character owes much sert, opt for one of the unique Prado, renowned for its array of to its location 2,188 feet up on gelatos made in-house with masterpieces by Velázquez and Spain’s central sierra, which ingredients such as basil and an unrivaled collection of Goyas ensures a sunny climate but sweet violets. Tickets must and El Grecos. Nearby, the Museo also chilly winters and hot be purchased in advance, and Nacional Centro de Arte Reina summers. We prefer to visit children under age 10 are not during the spring or fall, either Sofía displays works by Miró, Dalí permitted. Closed Saturday, April-May or September- Sunday and Monday. NH Collec- and Picasso, including the latter’s October. But travelers partic- tion Eurobuilding, Calle del Padre “Guernica.” Many people overlook ularly interested in museums Damián 23. Tel. (34) 91-570-0766. the smaller Real Academia de and shopping might enjoy Bellas Artes de San Fernando. January most, when top sites Dstage Talented chef Diego Guerrero’s This royal academy and museum are uncrowded and stores have their best sales. relaxed and stylish restaurant houses works by Goya, Murillo offers an appealing take on and de Zurbarán. To the east of the RESTAURANTS contemporary Spanish cooking great central thoroughfare, the with tasting menus that may Casa Lucio Paseo de la Caste llana, lies the chic feature dishes such as ravioli A favorite of the country’s royal filled with Tolosa bean purée residential district of Salamanca, family, this elegant family-run in cabbage broth, and Galician which contains not only much of restaurant is also a popular beef with roasted-chile pepper the city’s most desirable real estate choice with visiting celebrities, relish. Cooking workshops are but also a majority of its upscale who come for its gracious ser- offered. The restaurant does boutiques and galleries. vice and delicious traditional not permit children under the Spanish cooking. Start with age of 10. Closed Saturday and the huevos estrellados (broken Sunday. Calle de Regueros 8. Tel. RUDY BALASKO / SHUTTERSTOCK / BALASKO RUDY eggs) served over fried pota- (34) 91-702-1586. toes. Excellent mains include the grilled lamb chops and La Terraza del Casino baked merluza (hake) in a salsa Avant-garde chef Paco Roncero verde. Closed in August. Cava has created an intriguing gas- Baja 35. Tel. (34) 91-365-8217. tronomic adventure at this Lon- don men’s club-style restau- DiverXO rant in Madrid’s 19th-century Madrid-born chef David Muñoz casino. The contemporary is at the helm of this Michelin Spanish cooking is bold and three-star restaurant. The deli- sometimes silly. Therefore, cious cuisine represents an this is a fine choice for any- unusual but successful meeting one willing to brave the wilder of Iberian and Asian produce shores of gastronomy, as seen and cooking techniques, as in dishes that have included seen in dishes such as white “false” calamari risotto and asparagus vichyssoise with “cupcake de gazpacho.” The red bean rice, yuzu and Srira- restaurant does not permit cha, and curried green coco- children under the age of 12. 8 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM Closed Sunday, Monday and the “Mancha,”