A HIDEAWAY REPORT , & Mediterranean

2020 Villa Dubrovnik, Croatia Hideaway: A smaller hotel or resort with a distinctive style and character, a tranquil atmosphere and a dedication to personal service.

Over four decades, Hideaway Report editors have explored ceaselessly to discover the most charming hotels in the world. While recommenda- tions vary in size, style and location, it is properties of 50 rooms or fewer that are the primary objects of their travels. They search for hideaways that have a profound sense of place. And their evaluations go far beyond simple checklists. Relying on unrivaled experience, they aim to separate the merely excellent from the truly enchanting. So if you are looking for a place where you can leave the world behind and experience something exceptional, then let our editors point the way.

ON THE COVER Quinta da Côrte, Douro Valley, Portugal — photo by Jean-Francois Jaussaud CONTENTS ONE Updated February 2020

SPAIN...... 6

Madrid...... 8

Basque Country...... 12

La Rioja & Ribera del Duero...... 14

Santiago de Compostela...... 16

Barcelona...... 18

Catalonia...... 22

Salamanca...... 24

Mallorca...... 26

Menorca...... 28

Valencia...... 30

Andalusia...... 32

PORTUGAL...... 36

Lisbon...... 38

Lisbon Area...... 42

Coimbra...... 44

Porto...... 46

Douro Valley & Northern Portugal...... 48

The Alentejo...... 50

The Algarve...... 54

A The number that precedes a hummingbird indicates our rating of a hotel. Our rating scale: 99-100 — a truly great hotel, among the finest of its kind in the world; 96-98 — an exceptional hotel of great individuality and distinction; 93-95 — an outstanding hotel of genuine sophistication; 90- 92 — a fine hotel with considerable charm about which we have minor reservations.

P Look for the plus symbol in a hotel listing, which indicates travel benefits to members. ATLANTIC OCEAN

FRANCE

BAY OF

SAN SEBASTIÁN SANTIAGO ASTURIAS TABRIA BASQUE DE COMPOSTELA CA N COUNTRY NAVARRA GALICIA LEÓN LA RIOJA CASTILLA Y LEÓN ARAGON NORTE VALLADOLID PORTO SALAMANCA DOURO R.

MADRID SPAIN COIMBRA CENTRO BALEARIC SEA

MALLORCA VALENCIA PORTUGAL TOLEDO PALMA COMUNIDAD EXTREMADURA MENORCA SINTRA CASTILLA LA MANCHA VALENCIANA LISBON IBIZA FORMENTERA ALENTEJO COMPORTA

CÓRDOBA MURCIA

SEVILLE ALGARVE ANDALUSIA GRANADA FARO

MÁLAGA CÁDIZ

STRAIT OF GIBRALTAR

ATLANTIC OCEAN

MOROCCO ALGERIA

0 100 MI

0 100 KM CONTENTS TWO Updated February 2020

SLOVENIA...... 56

CROATIA...... 58

MONTENEGRO...... 62

MALTA...... 63

GREECE...... 64

Athens...... 66

The Peloponnese...... 68

Santorini...... 70

Crete...... 72

TURKEY...... 74

Istanbul...... 76

Bodrum...... 78

Hotel Index...... 80

A The number that precedes a hummingbird indicates our rating of a hotel. Our rating scale: 99-100 — a truly great hotel, among the finest of its kind in the world; 96-98 — an exceptional hotel of great individuality and distinction; 93-95 — an outstanding hotel of genuine sophistication; 90- 92 — a fine hotel with considerable charm about which we have minor reservations.

P Look for the plus symbol in a hotel listing, which indicates travel benefits to members. POLAND UKRAINE

CZECH REPUBLIC

RUSSIA GERMANY SLOVAKIA

AUSTRIA MOLDOVA

SLOVENIA HUNGARY BLED LJUBLJAN A ZAGREB ISTRIA

BOSNIA AND SERBIA CROATIA HERZEGOVINA BLACK ANDORRA SPLIT MONTENEGRO SEA

KORČULA BULGARIA PODGORICA DUBROVNIK SVETI STEFAN ISTANBUL MACEDONIA ADRIATIC SEA OF SEA MARMARA

AEGEAN TURKEY SEA IZMIR

ATHENS

BODRUM IONIAN SEA PELOPONNESE SYRIA

RHODES SANTORINI CYPRUS SEA OF CRETE MALTA CRETE LEBANON

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

0 1OO MI

0 1OO KM

ISRAEL

ALGERIA LIBYA LIBYA JORDAN EGYPT

SAUDI ARABIA Spain

pain is an exhilarating place WHEN TO GO in which to travel. Heavy S Spain has three main climatic investment in infrastructure has zones: north, central and Medi- resulted in a high-speed rail link terranean. Galicia, in the coastal

that connects Madrid and Barcelona northwest, receives abundant CINOBY / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES in fewer than three hours, while rainfall (June-September are the driest months); Madrid occu- the 190-mph AVE express takes just pies the high central plateau, two and a half hours from Madrid’s which has a relatively moder- Atocha station to the Andalusian ate climate; Seville is 10 to 15 city of Seville. Although much of degrees warmer than Madrid, the Spanish coastline is overbuilt, with July and August being dry the interior is largely unspoiled. but unpleasantly hot.

A new generation of chefs has TIME revolutionized Spanish , and the country can now boast a Six hours ahead of New York (EST). galaxy of Michelin stars, notably in

the northwestern Basque region. CURRENCY Spanish , too, ranks among the best in the world. The country Euro (€). Fluctuating rate val- ued at €1.00 = US$1.12 as of produces world-class sparkling February 2020. wine (), dry and minerally whites (Albariño), rich and U.S. EMBASSY full-bodied reds (Rioja, Toro) and Madrid, Tel. (34) 91-587-2200. top-quality fortified (), Consulate: Barcelona, Tel. (34) depending on the region. 93-280-2227.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay). Visit travel .state.gov and, for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.

Meadow of marguerites on Mallorca

6 — SPAIN CINOBY / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES

Meadow of marguerites on Mallorca

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 7 Madrid

tanding at the heart of Madrid WHEN TO GO nut- soup with scallops is the Museo Nacional del and flying fish eggs. For des- S Madrid’s character owes much sert, opt for one of the unique Prado, renowned for its array of to its location 2,188 feet up on gelatos made in-house with masterpieces by Velázquez and Spain’s central sierra, which ingredients such as basil and an unrivaled collection of Goyas ensures a sunny climate but sweet violets. Tickets must and El Grecos. Nearby, the Museo also chilly winters and hot be purchased in advance, and Nacional Centro de Arte Reina summers. We prefer to visit children under age 10 are not during the spring or fall, either Sofía displays works by Miró, Dalí permitted. Closed Saturday, April-May or September- Sunday and Monday. NH Collec- and Picasso, including the latter’s October. But travelers partic- tion Eurobuilding, Calle del Padre “.” Many people overlook ularly interested in museums Damián 23. Tel. (34) 91-570-0766. the smaller Real Academia de and shopping might enjoy Bellas Artes de San Fernando. January most, when top sites Dstage Talented Diego Guerrero’s This royal academy and museum are uncrowded and stores have their best sales. relaxed and stylish restaurant houses works by Goya, Murillo offers an appealing take on and de Zurbarán. To the east of the RESTAURANTS contemporary Spanish great central thoroughfare, the with tasting menus that may Casa Lucio Paseo de la Caste­llana, lies the chic feature dishes such as A favorite of the country’s royal filled with Tolosa purée residential district of Salamanca, family, this elegant family-run in cabbage broth, and Galician which contains not only much of restaurant is also a popular beef with roasted-chile pepper the city’s most desirable real estate choice with visiting celebrities, relish. Cooking workshops are but also a majority of its upscale who come for its gracious ser- offered. The restaurant does boutiques and galleries. vice and delicious traditional not permit children under the Spanish cooking. Start with age of 10. Closed Saturday and the huevos estrellados (broken Sunday. Calle de Regueros 8. Tel. RUDY BALASKO / SHUTTERSTOCK / BALASKO RUDY eggs) served over fried pota- (34) 91-702-1586. toes. Excellent mains include the grilled lamb chops and La Terraza del Casino baked merluza (hake) in a salsa Avant-garde chef Paco Roncero verde. Closed in August. Cava has created an intriguing gas- Baja 35. Tel. (34) 91-365-8217. tronomic adventure at this Lon- don men’s club-style restau- DiverXO rant in Madrid’s 19th-century Madrid-born chef David Muñoz casino. The contemporary is at the helm of this Michelin Spanish cooking is bold and three-star restaurant. The deli- sometimes silly. Therefore, cious cuisine represents an this is a fine choice for any- unusual but successful meeting one willing to brave the wilder of Iberian and Asian produce shores of , as seen and cooking techniques, as in dishes that have included seen in dishes such as white “false” calamari and asparagus vichyssoise with “cupcake de .” The red bean , yuzu and Srira- restaurant does not permit cha, and curried green coco- children under the age of 12.

8 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM Closed Sunday, Monday and the “Mancha,” a cold tapas com- The Gran Via with month of August. Calle de Alcalá posed of (a -like The Principal hotel (right) 15. Tel. (34) 91-532-1275. mixture of cooked ) over toasted topped with Restaurante Zalacaín a fried quail egg and slivers of A superb menu of Spanish- Ibérico . Cava Baja 30, La Continental cuisine is pre- Latina. Tel. (34) 91-365-0804. sented at this refined estab- lishment that has been a gas- Estado Puro tronomic mecca for more than Chef Paco Roncero does par- 30 years. Dishes such as the ticularly imaginative tapas at classic fish soup with rouille, this glamorous spot, where the sea bass tartare topped with ceiling is decorated with pein- caviar, and sirloin with etas, the hair combs once worn Périgord and potatoes Delmon- by Spanish women. Look for the ico are complemented by a vir- fried with quail egg tually unrivaled list of Spanish and trout roe, Galician octo- wines. Jackets are mandatory pus with crumbled potatoes, for men. Closed Saturday Madrid-style stewed tripe, fried and Sunday. Calle Álvarez de anchovies in a sweet-and-spicy EDITOR TIPS Baena 4. Tel. (34) 91-561-4840. citrus seasoning, and porcini, oxtail or Iberian ham croquetas. Where to Buy Espadrilles StreetXO Antigua Casa Crespo is the The seafood with crusta- This energy-charged restau- best place in Spain to buy ceans, calamari and prawns is rant in the market of espadrilles. It’s an alluring also excellent. Plaza Cánovas del El Corte Inglés in Salamanca old shop that’s run by the Castillo 4. Tel. (34) 91-429-9817. is famed chef David Muñoz’s fourth generation of the informal alternative to his other same family. It stocks a

RUDY BALASKO / SHUTTERSTOCK / BALASKO RUDY Lola 09 restaurant, DiverXO. Reserva- variety of styles and colors Popular with a well-dressed tions are not accepted, so go of this famous footwear, younger crowd, Lola 09 is one early or on a Sunday evening which is made with cotton of the most creative of the for a vibrant taste of Muñoz’s canvas and has rope- new-style tapas bars in Madrid. Spain-meets-Asia genius. Calle trimmed rubber soles. The atmospheric interior fea- Serrano 52. Tel. (34) 91-531-9884. Among its better-known tures warm red lighting, large customers is Queen Sofia of hanging ferns and exposed FAVORITE TAPAS Spain. Note the shop’s old- stone walls lined with shelves fashioned hours: Monday- Casa Lucas stocked to the brim with an Saturday 10 a.m. to 1:30 In addition to an excellent eclectic mix of books, antique p.m. and 5 p.m. to 8:15 p.m. selection of wines by the glass, globes and framed pictures of Calle Divino Pastor 29. friendly Casa Lucas offers an bullfighters and tropical birds. intriguing selection of idiosyn- The cod carpaccio salad with a cratic tapas. If it’s available, citrus-and-pomegranate vinai- try the delicious “Madrid,” an grette is especially memorable. intricate canapé of , Live music is regularly offered. scrambled egg, blood , Calle San Mateo 28. Tel. (34) pine nuts and raisins, or the 91-310-6695.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 9 A The Principal 94 Open since 2015, this 76-room hotel is ideally located at the edge of the bustling Chueca district, which features numerous specialty boutiques and is reminiscent of hip enclaves in New York and Los Angeles. Guest accommodations occupy a handsome 1920s building just off the Gran Via. The lobby is located on the sixth floor (accessible via private elevator) and is a congenial space with framed portraits and leather wingback chairs. Junior Suites come with writing desks and sitting areas, and some include balconies. Ático restaurant serves innovative Spanish dishes prepared by acclaimed chef Ramón Freixa, and a rooftop bar affords panoramic views of the Madrid skyline. There is also a solarium, a small gym, a sauna and a wellness suite. Fitness sessions with personal trainers can be arranged. P

Lowest Rate: Executive Room, $400; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $630. Marqués de Valdeiglesias 1, 28004 Madrid. Tel. (34) 91-521-8743.

A URSO Hotel & Spa 94 A 10-minute drive from the Museo Nacional del Prado and a short walk to the Mercado de Barceló, this handsome palace hotel with 78 guest accommodations is located in an up-and-coming neighborhood with stylish boutiques and excellent restaurants. Behind the building’s early 20th-century exterior is an uncluttered modern interior that features subdued color schemes and a mix of traditional and contemporary furnishings. Some of the suites have private terraces. A family suite is also available. Public spaces encompass an attractive lobby and a small but agreeable bar offering an extensive cocktail list and an all-day dining menu. The Media Ración restaurant serves Spanish-inspired dishes in an elegant yet relaxed environment. There is also a gym, a yoga area

and a spa with a wood-lined hydrotherapy pool and a steam room. PALACIO ENRIQUE SPA: & HOTEL URSO

An excellent is served in the romantic Conservatory. LORD KUERNYUS / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES

Lowest Rate: Double Room, $270; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $400. Mejía Lequerica 8, 28004 Madrid. Tel. (34) 91-444-4458.

A Gran Hotel Inglés 92 This 48-room hotel is located in the Barrio de las Letras neighbor- hood, which many of Spain’s most famous writers and thinkers have called home. With interiors overseen by New York’s Rockwell Group, the hotel effortlessly blends a sense of tradition with subtle modern accents. First opened in 1886, the hotel has a rich history, which is preserved with an expansive lobby featuring antique cast-iron pillars and a circular bar that hosts gourmet breakfast, lunch (focusing on an array of sandwiches and traditional tapas), afternoon and tempting happy hours for classic cocktails. Premium Rooms are spacious and feature oak floors, writing desks and contemporary chandeliers. Other amenities include the chic Lobo 8 restaurant serving contemporary , an elegant Sisley spa, a jet pool and a fitness center. Mixology classes with the head bartender are also available. P

Lowest Rate: Deluxe Room, $430; Editor’s Choice: Premium Room, $570. Calle Echegaray 8, 28014 Madrid. Tel. (34) 91-360-0001.

10 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM URSO HOTEL & SPA: ENRIQUE PALACIO ENRIQUE SPA: & HOTEL URSO LORD KUERNYUS / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES

Hotel Ritz

RECOMMENDED GRAND HOTELS AND LARGER RESORTS

A Hotel Ritz 94 Temporarily closed for renovations, this gracious 167-room hotel, located in a Belle Epoque palace, offers Old World charm and flawless service. Lodgings feature traditional décor, with elaborate moldings and decorative marble fireplaces, plus views of the Prado, Lealtad Square or the hotel’s garden. The excellent Goya Restaurant & Terrace offers outdoor dining, weather permitting, and the Krug Bar serves and caviar. Amenities include a small gym and wellness center but no swimming pool. The comprehensive renovation encompasses all rooms and public areas. A new spa will be added, and restaurants and bars will be updated. Lowest Rate: Deluxe Room, $450; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $600. Plaza de la Lealtad 5, 28014 Madrid. Tel. (34) 91-701-6767.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 11 Basque Country

he Basque Country in northern RESTAURANTS as braised pigeon in a truffle Spain is one of ’s most sauce; grilled hake loin with T coconut, red and razor distinctive regions. Divided by Chef Pedro Subijana was one clams; and suckling lamb chop the mountains of the Pyrenees, of the founders of the New with Parmesan whey. Children its idyllic interior is a land of Basque cooking movement. under age 5 are not permitted. steep green hillsides dotted with The brightly lit restaurant fac- Closed Sunday dinner, Monday ing the Bay of Biscay is housed grazing sheep and low whitewashed and Tuesday. Loidi Kalea 4, La- within the new Akelarre Hotel. farmhouses, their doors painted a sarte-Oria, . Tel. (34) The menu changes daily, but 943-366-471. dramatic oxblood red. The coastline look for innovative dishes such alternates among wave-sculpted as snails in a tomato-basil “film” Nerua cliffs, broad beaches, pretty fishing and a palate-cleansing “gin and Chef Josean Alija’s more ports and stylish resort towns. The tonic on a plate.” Wine-tast- than lives up to its spectacular ing and cooking classes are setting in the Guggenheim. area first became fashionable in offered. Closed Sunday dinner, Alija is a great cook. the second half of the 19th century, Monday and Tuesday. Padre Orco- Look for the foie gras-like avo- and today, the region is regaining laga 56, San Sebastián. Tel. (34) cado, steamed over a bouillon popularity thanks to a mix of 943-311-209. made with conger eel. Mains cultural attractions and world-class might include megrim fish Asador cuisine. ETA, the Basque separatist coated in a prawn, lemon and Stop for lunch at chef Victor chile pepper sauce, and rack movement, has declared an end to Arguinzoniz’s cheerful coun- of lamb with an purée hostilities. Consequently, American try inn located between and fenugreek juice. Closed HOTEL MARIA CRISTINA: WILL PRYCE visitors need have no worries about and San Sebastián. Everything Monday, Sunday dinner, Tues- their personal security. Bilbao, is cooked on a grill, and the re- day dinner and most of January. the region’s largest city, has been sults are spectacular. The menu Guggenheim Museum, Avenida changes frequently, but typi- famously transformed from a dour Abandoibarra, Bilbao, Bizkaia. cal dishes have included cod Tel. (34) 944-000-430. industrial port into a popular grilled over green oak coals, cultural destination by Frank and squid grilled with Restaurante Gehry’s magnificent titanium- and served with a sauce of its Established in 1897 by current paneled Guggenheim Museum. own ink. Children under the chef Juan Mari Arzak’s grand- age of 12 are not permitted. parents, this is one of the finest Lunch only. Closed Monday. Din- restaurants in Spain. The menu Basque restaurants are some of the ner served on Saturdays between changes daily, but dishes have most inventive in Europe and boast April and October. Plaza de San included mushroom pâté in a a constellation of Michelin stars. Juan 1, Atxondo, Bizkaia. Tel. (34) sandwich of puffed and curried The indigenous cuisine is influenced 946-583-042. rice wafers; oysters set atop rounds of potato under a veil of by the abundance of seafood and Martín Berasategui “cellophane” made from evap- the splendid produce from the Perhaps the most classical of orated seawater; and Galician fertile Ebro Valley. Spain’s great chefs, Berasate- beef with chorizo-glazed po- gui oversees this three-star tatoes. Closed Sunday, Monday restaurant that presents a menu and most of November. Avenida that follows the seasons. Mains Alcalde José Elósegui 273, San have included dishes such Sebastián. Tel. (34) 943-278-465.

12 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM Hotel Maria Cristina HOTEL MARIA CRISTINA: WILL PRYCE

RECOMMENDED GRAND HOTELS AND LARGER RESORTS

A Gran Hotel Domine 92 Situated across the street from the Guggenheim Museum, this chic 145-room designer hotel was renovated in 2018. The modern rooms are functional rather than atmospheric; request one with a view of the museum, which is beautifully illuminated at night. The contemporary interior features a fine restaurant and a lively Bauhaus-style café. A rooftop terrace with panoramic city views serves appetizers and cocktails. Other public areas include a lobby bar and a quiet reading room with a working fireplace. A renovated wellness center offers spa treatments, a Turkish bath, a sauna and a top-floor fitness center. Lowest Rate: Domine Double Room, $330; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe Guggenheim Suite, $580. Alameda de Mazarredo 61, 48009 Bilbao. Tel. (34) 944-253-300. P A Hotel Maria Cristina 92 Designed by the architect of the Ritz Hotels in London and Paris, this handsome building is set on the bank of the Urumea River, across from the opera house in the historic center of San Sebastián. The 136 comfortable, spacious guest rooms are decorated in classic style, with floral area rugs and gilt wall sconces. Junior Suites offer small Juliet balconies with fine views, as well as sitting rooms and chandeliers. The formal staff oversee public areas that include a fine Asian restaurant and the welcoming Dry San Sebastián bar, which serves light fare. Other amenities include a gym and a culinary center with a cooking school. Lowest Rate: Classic Room, $490; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $740. Paseo Republica Argentina 4, 20004 San Sebastián. Tel. (34) 943-437-600. P

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 13 La Rioja & Ribera del Duero

a Rioja and Ribera del Duero in northwestern Spain EDITOR TIPS L produce many of the country’s finest wines. La Rioja’s famous reds come in four classifications: Rioja, which spends A Tradition of Exquisite less than a year in oak; Crianza, aged for two years, at least one Pottery Just outside Burgos, the of which is in oak; Rioja Reserva, aged for at least three years, Alfarería Naharro perpet- of which at least one is in oak; and Rioja Gran Reserva, aged uates the pottery-making at least two years in oak and three years in the bottle. Several traditions of La Rioja with bodegas have been designed or extended by some of the world’s beautiful matte or white- most illustrious architects. These include Santiago Calatrava’s or red-glazed terra-cotta stunning Bodegas Ysios in Laguardia and the late Zaha Hadid’s pitchers, vases, teapots, bowls and platters. This addition to the venerable Bodegas R. López de Heredia Viña is an example of that rare Tondonia in Haro. Wines from the Ribera del Duero derive traditional workshop that almost exclusively from red . Production is dedicated to sells things that are actually Tinto Fino — Tempranillo — the dominant red variety in the worth the effort of carrying them home by hand. northern half of the Spanish peninsula. HOTEL MARQUÉS DE RISCAL: ADOLFO RANCAÑO

One of Spain’s Best Markets Occupying a two-story 1930s building, the indoor Mercado de San Blas in Logroño is one of the best markets in Spain and a great place to shop for a picnic. You can also eat on the premises, maybe tucking into some roast suckling pig served with fried potatoes and salad.

Undiscovered Gems Abadía Retuerta LeDo- VINEYARDS: ALBERTO LOYO / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES maine is a perfect base from which to discover the Ribera del Duero as well as spectacular but lit- tle-known towns such as Peñafiel, with its medieval Vineyard with San Vicente de la Sonsierra in the background square beneath a white crenelated castle, or the atmospheric old city of Valladolid, the location of Spain’s National Sculpture Museum.

14 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine 96 Just down the road from the famous Vega Sicilia vineyard, this magnificent property encompasses 30 rooms and suites divided between a 12th-century Cistercian monastery and former abbey stables. Lodgings feature teak furniture, oak floors and shutters in tall windows that overlook surrounding vineyards. The essen- tial rusticity of the property was retained during an expansive renovation in 2012. Elegant common areas feel authentic and low-key, with beamed ceilings and limestone floors, and dining options include a casual, wine-oriented bistro and the one-star Refectorio for elaborate tasting menus. Amenities are highlighted by an outdoor pool, a yoga room and a spa specializing in vino- therapy treatments. This property is a perfect base from which to discover the Ribera del Duero and the old city of Valladolid. P

Lowest Rate: Classic Double Room, $530; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $890. Nacional 122, KM. 332.5, Sardón de Duero, 47340 Valladolid. Tel. (34) 983-680-368.

A Hotel Marqués de Riscal 92 Located next to the famous winery of the same name, this dramatic property was designed by Frank Gehry. Light wood paneling, high ceilings, parquet floors and baths done in green Brazilian granite give the 43 bright, spacious rooms a serene feel (reserve a room in the main building). The acclaimed Michelin-starred Restaurante Marqués de Riscal serves contemporary cuisine accompanied by HOTEL MARQUÉS DE RISCAL: ADOLFO RANCAÑO a predictably excellent wine list, and the casual 1860 Tradición features refined regional specialties in a modern environment. Both are overseen by renowned chef Francis Paniego. Vinoteca & Bistro offers a variety of wines and light bites, and a rooftop lounge and library is an inviting locale to enjoy an aperitif. The hotel’s principal amenity is a 15,070-square-foot spa that offers Caudalie -based treatments. Also included is an indoor pool and well-equipped fitness center.

Lowest Rate: Deluxe Spa Room, $470; Editor’s Choice: Riscal Suite, $830. Calle Torrea 1, 01340 Elciego. Tel. (34) 945-180-880.

A Hotel Viura 92 This contemporary 33-room hotel created by architect-owners Joseba and Xabier Aramburu features an avant-garde design of superimposed concrete cubes clumped in fanciful disarray. VINEYARDS: ALBERTO LOYO / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES Beautifully decorated lodgings include large French windows that flood the space with natural light. Suites also have spacious living areas with oak desks, private access to the hotel’s thermal cave dating from the 16th century and furnished terraces with views of the village of Villabuena de Álava and the mountains of Cantabria. The hotel’s superb restaurant serves Riojan and (lunch is available only on weekends). Other amenities include an atmospheric wine bar (offering an all-day dining menu), a small spa, complimentary bicycles and access to a fitness center and the adjacent swimming pool. Wine tastings and hot air balloon rides can be arranged.

Lowest Rate: Viura Room, $150; Editor’s Choice: Suite, $300. Calle Mayor s/n, Villabuena de Álava, 01307 Álava. Tel. (34) 945-609-000.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 15 Santiago de Compostela

antiago de Compostela’s 11th-century cathedral is the CASUAL RESTAURANTS destination for a 1,000-year-old pilgrimage to the shrine S Casa Marcelo of St. James, which attracts more than 100,000 devotees This small, Michelin-starred annually. The legend of St. James is one of a number of early restaurant is a perfect choice traditions concerning the missionary activities and final for lunch. The ever-chang- resting places of the Twelve Apostles. The old quarter of ing menu, showcasing Gali- cia’s superb produce, offers Santiago contains a glorious array of Romanesque, baroque Spanish- and Asian-inspired and neoclassical buildings. Santiago has a lively atmosphere, small plates, like beef tartare, attributable in part to the thousands of students who attend gyozas, razor shell clams and the 16th-century university. The prevailing winds from the sea urchins with imaginative Atlantic and the surrounding mountains combine to give the garnishes. Closed Sunday and Monday. Rúa das Hortas 1. Tel. city a high annual rainfall. (34) 981-558-580.

Taberna Abastos 2.0 This is a popular, market-driven ATLANTIC restaurant on the edge of Santi- OCEAN BAY OF BISCAY ago’s wonderful old granite LUGO food hall. Look for traditional SANTIAGO DE PAMPLONA mainsANDORRA such as octopus with LEÓN COMPOSTELA LOGROÑO spinach and potatoes, and GALICIA ASTORGA LA RIOJA sautéed clams inGIRONA a light wine BURGOS broth. Closed Sunday. Rúa das CASTILLA Y LEÓN Ameas 13-18. (34) 981-576-145. PORTUGAL BARCELONA

WAY OF ST. JAMES PILGRIMAGE ROUTE MADRID BALEARICEDITOR SEA TIPS

Unique JewelryMALLORCA The production of jet stone PALMA jewelry is one of the tradi- B ALEARIC MENORCA tional handicraftsISLANDS of San- IBIZA FORMENTERA LISBON tiago de Compostela. The city’s best jewelers are Ámboa (Rúa Nova 44) and MEDITERRANEAN SEA Baraka Joyas (Rúa do Vilar GRANADA 78) for modern designs and Joyería Ramón González

MALAGA Orfebrería (Plaza de Feijoo) CADIZ for traditional pieces made S t r a i t o f with the highest-quality jet, which is called azabache in Spanish.

MOROCCO ALGERIA

16 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A A Quinta da Auga 95 Three miles west of downtown Santiago de Compostela, this inti- mate family-owned hotel is set in an 18th-century former paper mill on the River Sar. Stylish common areas are furnished with framed family photographs and a collection of 19th-century oil paintings. The 51 individually decorated rooms feature a mix of original antiques and modern design elements; typically, 1,075-square- foot suites include toile de Jouy wallcoverings, crystal chandeliers and oak floors. The fine Filigrana Restaurant, overseen by chef Federico López Arcay, serves traditional Galician dishes, and a seasonal terrace café offers tapas and cocktails. This property encompasses a verdant two-and-a-half-acre estate that includes a pool and a spa offering a range of facilities for hydrotherapy treatments, including a Dead Sea “flotarium.”

Lowest Rate: Classic Room, $190; Editor’s Choice: Suite, $550. Paseo da Amaia 23b, 15706 Santiago de Compostela, A Coruña. Tel. (34) 981-534-636.

RECOMMENDED GRAND HOTELS AND LARGER RESORTS

A Parador de Baiona 90 This historic hotel is contained within the medieval walls of the Castelo de Monterreal, which enjoys a spectacular setting in the southern Rías Baixas region, with magnificent sea views. The 122 spacious guest accommoda- tions come with parquet floors and well-lit baths. Recommended are the three Unique rooms — 201, 242, 323 — which are larger and more distinctively decorated. A fine restaurant specializing in local seafood features outdoor seating in the summer. Amenities include a large outdoor pool, a sauna and a Jacuzzi, and the hotel can arrange outings to the Islas Cíes for beach picnics. Lowest Rate: Double Room, $170; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $240. Avenida Arquitecto Jesús Valverde 3, 36300 Baiona Pontevedra. Tel. (34) 986-355-000. A Parador de Santiago de Compostela 90 Situated in a 15th-century convent facing the cathedral, this palatial hotel is also known as the Hostal dos Reis Católicos. A National Historic Monument, it has 137 antiques-furnished rooms and art-filled salons. Accom- modations feature canopied beds, brocade drapes and wooden floors. Eating options encompass a formal dining room in former stables, a more casual tapas restaurant and a terrace bar overlooking the plaza. The property is atmospheric, but the service can be inconsistent. It also lacks a gym and swimming pool. Lowest Rate: Standard Room, $230; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $540. Praza Do Obradoiro 1, 15705 Santiago de Compostela. Tel. (34) 981-582-200.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 17 Barcelona

arcelona contains some of WHEN TO GO local octopus with candied on- the best-preserved medieval ions are not to be missed. The B The high season can be insuf- popular are served only structures in Europe, as well as ferably crowded nowadays, at lunch. Calle Muntaner 171. Tel. a wealth of imaginative contem- especially when huge cruise (34) 93-430-9027. porary buildings. The Passeig ships fill the harbor. We prefer de Gràcia is lined with ritzy to visit during the shoulder Cinc Sentits Chef Jordi Artal grew up in boutiques and fanciful modernist seasons, in April-May or Octo- ber-November. Canada before returning to his architecture. Nearby, Park Güell parents’ native Catalonia and is an enchanting space created RESTAURANTS opening this excellent restau- by Antoni Gaudí, the eccentric rant with a low-lit contemporary Abac genius behind the extraordinary décor in the Eixample neigh- Chef Jordi Cruz was the young- borhood. Artal uses only the Sagrada Família (Church of the est Spanish chef ever to win a finest local produce to create Holy Family) in the Eixample Michelin star, at the restaurant seasonal dishes that are beau- district, as well as the undulating Estany Clar. In this sleek and tifully presented, such as chick- Casa Milà apartment building, stylish space located in a newly en-of-the-woods mushrooms also known as La Pedrera (book constructed pavilion adjacent served with grilled porcini, egg to a lush garden, Cruz show- the 8 a.m. “Exclusive” visit), and yolk confit, thyme-brown but- cases local seafood and pro- ter crumbs and pickled the colorful Casa Batlló (book duce in dishes such as Mediter- in a button mushroom cream, the FastPass). La Rambla is an ranean red mullet with crisped and grilled trout with a fennel exuberant tree-lined promenade fish scales, nori and green tea crisp in a slightly spicy Padrón dotted with animated outdoor leaves; escudella (traditional pepper emulsion. Children un- cafés, tapas bars and flower stalls. Catalan ) with lamb meat- der age 6 are not permitted for LUCIANO MORTULA / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES balls, baby and pine dinner. Closed Sunday and Mon- nuts; and Iberian meats with day. Carrer d’Entença 60. Tel. (34) babaganoush, salted toffee, 93-323-9490. caramelized and grilled watercress. Abac Hotel, Avenida Disfrutar Tibidabo 1. Tel. (34) 93-319-6600. In December 2014, three chefs who had previously worked at Alta Taberna Paco Meralgo the celebrated (now Conveniently located in the closed) came together to create central Eixample neighbor- this wonderful two-star restau- hood, this attractive modern rant. Reflecting the surround- tapas bar established in 2002 ing Eixample neighborhood, takes reservations, and most the interior brings together a of its staff speak English. Try delightful interplay of wrought the rich assortment of Iberian iron and Miró-inspired ceram- , cod fritters, fresh ics, all brightly illuminated prawns with sauce, oxtail through skylights. The menu stew with potatoes and deep- is full of an ever-changing ar- fried baby squid. The veal car- ray of inventive dishes. Look paccio with duck foie gras and for creations such as the red mustard vinaigrette and the mullet with belly and

18 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM , and razor potatoes, and a chocolate hon- clams with seaweed. “Disfru- eycomb-and-lemon cloud with View from Park Güell tar” is Spanish for “to enjoy,” a touch of lime and rosemary and enjoyment is just what this honey. Be sure to try the deli- stylish restaurant inspires in cious white Catalonian its guests. Closed Saturday and wines. Plaça de Prim 1. Tel. (34) Sunday. Carrer de Villarroel 163. 93-225-2018. Tel. (34) 93-348-6896. Restaurante Nectari Monvínic Celebrated chef Jordi Esteve This Catalan take on a French showcases contemporary Cat- bistrot à vins, or a bistro spe- alan cooking at this calm, ele- cializing in wines, reflects Bar- gant restaurant near the Plaza celona’s obsession with de- de España. Dishes such as sign. Patrons can peruse some a mousse made of foie gras 3,600 available bottles on a and hake with a hint of vanilla computer screen. The menu served with Port jelly, and rack runs to tempting dishes such of lamb with an crust ac- EDITOR TIPS as duck with an polenta, companied by sweetbreads and A Magnificent pears and stewed turnips, and smoked eggplant show off his Concert Hall pigeon cooked two ways: char- style. Carrer de València 28. Tel. One of my favorite modern- grilled breast with caramelized (34) 93-226-8718. ist buildings in Barcelona is onions and wings with tender the Palau de la Música Cat- rice. Fresh seafood courses Tickets alana, a concert hall with a may include a prawn tartare After becoming one of the sensational stained-glass LUCIANO MORTULA / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES in a mushroom consommé and most famous chefs in the world ceiling created by architect line-caught squid stuffed with with his restaurant El Bulli Lluís Domènech i Montaner. and mushrooms. (now closed), Ferran Adrià I’ll never forget seeing the Do not leave without trying has opened five restaurants Berlin Philharmonic perform the Paris-Brest (praline cream in the same neighborhood in Brahms in this joyous space. puff) served with Barcelona. Tickets is Adrià’s high-concept tapas bar with for . Closed Sunday, Gaudí’s Lesser-Known a cracked white-tile floor and and Monday and Saturday lunch. Buildings a showbiz-themed décor. The Carrer de la Diputació 249. Tel. Many people miss some of modern Spanish tapas are (34) 93-272-6187. the most charming Gaudí excellent and may include buildings, such as the Els Pescadors dishes like belly with Palau Güell, the residence Overlooking a quiet square in salmon eggs and green-apple of Gaudí’s wealthy patron; El Poblenou, this restaurant bread, and rabbit ribs with the Cripta Gaudí, the Tolk- is much loved by locals, who foamy garlic mayonnaise. ien-esque church crypt in flock here for dishes such as However, the restaurant is Colònia Güell, a utopian duck foie gras in salt crust with noisy, and service can be planned industrial commu- truffle and tarragon, Iberian uneven. Closed Sunday and nity just outside Barcelona; pork with broccoli cream, salt Monday. Avinguda del Paral·lel and Torre Bellesguard, a cod gratin with sauce 164. Tel. (34) 93-292-4252. mansion first opened to the and creamed spinach, suckling public in 2013. goat with rosemary and baked

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 19 A Mercer Hotel 94 Located within Barcelona’s historic center, this stylish contem- porary hotel with 28 rooms and suites is set in an old limestone house. Guest accommodations, some with private balconies or terraces, feature oak floors, colorful paintings and views of the city or the hotel’s vertical garden or courtyard. Spacious Junior Suites include living rooms with beamed ceilings, exposed stone walls and wide pine-plank floors. The beautiful shaded interior courtyard garden is planted with orange trees, while the tran- quil rooftop terrace ­— with a plunge pool, several comfortable chaise longues and a poolside bar — affords panoramic views of the Gothic Quarter. The excellent restaurant serves a regularly changing menu of traditional . The property also has a casual, tavern-style tapas lounge and an atmospheric cocktail bar popular with locals.

Lowest Rate: Superior Room, $540; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $770. Calle dels Lledó 7, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. (34) 93-310-7480.

A The Serras 94 With a beautiful 19th-century façade facing the Port Vell waterfront harbor, this sophisticated 28-room boutique hotel in the historic Gothic Quarter housed Pablo Picasso’s first studio back in 1896. The interior design overseen by Eva Martínez combines a modern décor, including black-and-white geometric patterns and abstract paintings, with traditional Catalan accents. The rooms are bright and spacious and feature wrought-iron balconies. Additionally, most suites come with sitting areas with dining tables. Ameni- ties include the indoor-outdoor Informal restaurant overseen by Michelin-starred chef Marc Gascons for regional specialties, a rooftop terrace with a swimming pool and a casual bar (open 24 hours a day) offering music, cocktails and an extensive menu of light snacks. P THE SERRAS: DANI ROVIRA / DESIGN HOTELS Lowest Rate: Superior Room, $370; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite Marina View, $780. Passeig de Colom 9, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. (34) 93-169-1868.

A Gran Hotel La Florida 90 Situated about 30 minutes from the city center, this beautifully restored hotel sits on Mount Tibidabo. The 70 spacious art nouveau-style guest rooms and suites come with contemporary furniture, original paintings, oak floors and scenic views of Barce- lona or the Pyrenees. A few of the suites feature private terraces with hot tubs. The gourmet Bistro 1925 Restaurant serves fine Catalan cuisine, and the Lobby Bar has a panoramic terrace. There is also a poolside bar and lounge offering cocktails and light Mediterranean tapas. Amenities at the property include a L’Occitane spa with a sauna and a Jacuzzi, a well-equipped gym and a 120-foot stainless steel indoor-outdoor swimming pool. A convenient complimentary shuttle service to and from the city center is provided by the hotel.

Lowest Rate: Deluxe Room, $210; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $260. Carretera Vallvidrera al Tibidabo 83-93 (Junto al Tibidabo), 08035 Barcelona. Tel. (34) 93-259-3000.

20 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM Majestic Hotel & Spa

RECOMMENDED GRAND HOTELS AND LARGER RESORTS

A Mandarin Oriental 95 This elegant 120-room hotel is perfectly sited on the Passeig de Gràcia, a short walk from the Gothic Quarter. Airy guest rooms, some with balconies or terraces, overlook the boulevard or the interior garden. The two-star THE SERRAS: DANI ROVIRA / DESIGN HOTELS Moments offers traditional Catalan cuisine, Blanc offers all-day dining, and the Banker’s Bar serves cocktails and tapas. Amenities include a rooftop pool with 360-degree views, a luxurious spa and a well-equipped gym. Lowest Rate: Deluxe Garden Room, $590; Editor’s Choice: Mandarin Junior Suite, $1,220. Passeig de Gràcia 38-40, 08007 Barcelona. Tel. (34) 93-151-8888. P A Majestic Hotel & Spa 94 Well-located on the Passeig de Gràcia, this grand family-owned hotel was built in 1918. It incorporates modern conveniences with Old World elegance, including marble staircases and period furniture. Many of the 275 accommodations feature bay windows and balconies. Restaurants include the Catalan-inspired SOLC and La Dolce Vitae for fine tapas beside a rooftop swimming pool. There is also a sophisticated spa and a well- equipped fitness center. Lowest Rate: Deluxe Room, $350; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $630. Passeig de Gràcia 68, 08007 Barcelona. Tel. (34) 93-488-1717. P

“In many ways, Barcelona just continues to get better, and it’s no surprise that the city is in the midst of a seemingly permanent hotel boom.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 21 Catalonia

he Costa Brava region of Catalonia extends from just north EDITOR TIPS T of Barcelona to the French border. It is ironic that the name means “Wild Coast,” since much of the coastline has been Catalonia’s Delightful disfigured by large-scale tourist developments. However, small Wine Country During the summer, we towns such as Cadaqués are still relatively traditional. Once, like to escape to Catalo- the region attracted artists such as Salvador Dalí, Pablo Picasso, nia’s wine country, which Joan Miró and Marcel Duchamp. (The Dalí Theatre-Museum is in produces fine still and Figueres.) Immediately inland, the landscape is pretty, tranquil sparkling bottlings. The and unspoiled. Like all great cities, Barcelona provides an best-known wine town is Vilafranca del Penedès, intense experience, and we often feel the need to unwind for a an hour’s drive from the bit at one of the stylish hotels in the surrounding countryside. city. Tours and tastings are available at the acclaimed A 90-minute drive to the northwest, the idyllic valley of Torres winery, plus the less lies in the rugged Pyrenees. After passing through well-known Parés Baltà the Cadí Tunnel, you are confronted by a line of jagged 10,000- vineyard, among others. Vilafranca del Penedès it- foot peaks rising directly from an alpine valley. The Segre River self is a pleasant working winds its way through a picture-postcard landscape of forested town proudly dedicated slopes and flower-strewn meadows down to the dignified old to the grape. The 16-room town of La Seu d’Urgell, dominated by its majestic 12th-century Casa Torner i Güell is a sis- cathedral. High above stand the extensive remains of a huge ter property to the Mercer Hotel in Barcelona and oc- 16th-century fortress. cupies a recently renovated BAY 19th-century townhouse. OF BISCAY Though not a true luxury hotel, it is an agreeable CRUZ JUAN REMEI: DEL TORRE FRANCE place to spend the night. ANDORRA GIRONA LA SEU D’URGELL SPAIN CERDANYA COSTA 0 100 MI VALLEY BRAVA 0 100 KM AVE TRAIN ROUTE CATALONIA (2.5 HRS TO MADRID) BARCELONA PENEDÈS WINE REGION BALEARIC MADRID SEA

TUGAL VALENCIA POR

22 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM

r Strait of Gibralta A Mas de Torrent 95 Set in a picturesque rural setting, this hideaway on an 18th- century farmstead is located two hours northeast of Barcelona. Tiled floors and rustic antique furnishings enhance a historic interior highlighted by a timbered dining room, where traditional Catalan cuisine is served. The 39 well-appointed lodgings are divided between the rambling main manor and a garden pool annex. The evocative flower-themed suites in the main house are filled with antiques and colorful rugs and fabrics. Seven of the 20 lodgings in the annex come with private pools. Amenities include an outdoor pool in luxuriant palm gardens, tennis courts and a spa with four treatment rooms, plus a gym, hammam, solarium, cold plunge pool and heated indoor swimming pool. The property has been closed since November and will reopen in April after renovating both rooms and public spaces.

Lowest Rate: Garden Suite, $360; Editor’s Choice: Suite , $390. Afores de Torrent s/n, 17123 Torrent, Girona. Tel. (34) 972-303-292.

A Torre del Remei 92 Two hours northwest of Barcelona and adjacent to the Cadí nature reserve, this relaxing family-run manor house hotel stands amid parklike grounds backdropped by the Pyrenees. A stately Belle Epoque façade leads to a rotunda lounge and the 11 accommodations. Named after the views they afford, these are enhanced by rich fabrics, custom furnishings, fireplaces, whirlpool baths and heated floors. The restaurant, overseen TORRE DEL REMEI: JUAN CRUZ JUAN REMEI: DEL TORRE by chef Josep María Boix, serves fine featuring ingredients from the hotel’s organic garden and regionally sourced seasonal produce. Amenities include an outdoor heated swimming pool (open from May to October), a solarium and a private spa treatment room on the third floor. The hotel is under renovation until the winter of 2020, when it will reopen with 24 rooms.

Lowest Rate: Confort Room, $340; Editor’s Choice: Suite, $530. Camí del Remei 3, 17539 Bolvir, Girona. Tel. (34) 972-140-182.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 23 Salamanca

alamanca is known as “La Ciudad Dorada” (The Golden City), owing to the luminous glow S of its distinctive sandstone buildings, and it dominates the surrounding plains from its perch on the Tormes River. The university was founded in 1134, and its antiquity is therefore on a par with that of Oxford, Bologna and the Sorbonne. (Christopher Columbus delivered lectures here upon his return from the New World.) If the head of the city is its university, its heart is the Plaza Mayor, one of Europe’s largest and most beautiful squares. Originally built as a venue for bullfighting, the plaza is lined with colonnaded galleries and handsome baroque buildings.

A Hotel Rector 92 Located on the edge of Salamanca’s Old Town a short walk from the spectacular Plaza Mayor and cathedral, this attractive 13-room boutique hotel is set in a neo-Renaissance townhouse of honey-colored stone. The discreet entry leads to an atmo- spheric lobby with two striking stained-glass windows. Many of the hotel’s guest lodgings feature mahogany furniture, carved antiques, classic furnishings, fine linens, crown moldings and immaculate gray-marble baths stocked with Bulgari toiletries. Though there is no formal restaurant, swimming pool or fitness facility, the hotel has a convenient private garage and offers a small lounge-bar that serves breakfast. Sightseeing tours to the picturesque nearby cities of Avila and Zamora can be arranged, as well as winery visits and excursions on the Douro River. (A private chauffeured car can be booked in advance.) PLAZA MAYOR: JUANA MARI MOYA / MOMENT / GETTY IMAGES Lowest Rate: Classic, $190; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe Suite, $330. Paseo Rector Esperabé 10, 37008 Salamanca. Tel. (34) 923-218-482.

“Roving , or minstrels dressed in period garb, entertain passersby on the square, and impromptu flamenco performances are not uncommon.

24 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM PLAZA MAYOR: JUANA MARI MOYA / MOMENT / GETTY IMAGES

Plaza Mayor HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 25 Mallorca

allorca is the largest of Spain’s . Although parts of the coast have M been despoiled by mass tourism, the landscape inland is still exceptionally beautiful. The island has two mountain ranges, each about 40 miles in length. One of these, the , runs parallel to the west coast, where dramatic cliffs fall directly into the Mediterranean. Mallorca’s terraced hillsides are dotted with picturesque villages. Perhaps the most striking is Deià, which has long attracted writers and artists. Avoid the big beach towns on the outskirts of Palma and visit the island during the shoulder seasons. GRAN HOTEL SON NET: DOMUSIMAGES - ALEXANDER RUDOLPH

West coast of Mallorca

BALEARIC MENORCA SEA CIUDADELA POLLENÇA MAHÓN DEIÀ ARTA PUIGPUNYENT PALMA MALLORCA WEST COAST: I_COMPASS / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES

IBIZA MEDITERRANEAN SEA

0 40 MI FORMENTERA 0 40 KM

26 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A Gran Hotel Son Net 94 Overlooking a verdant rural valley and the picturesque village of Puigpunyent, this strikingly restored hotel occupies a 17th- century mansion. The 31 stylish lodgings offer every conceivable amenity. Request one of the sumptuous Grand or Royal suites, which feature huge living rooms and scenic private terraces. Tile floors, ancient timber beams and a remarkable collection of classical and contemporary art accent the colonnaded lounges, leading to a vaulted bar and a romantic restaurant serving gour- met Mallorcan-Mediterranean dishes. Other amenities include a heated 100-foot outdoor pool, a seasonal restaurant set in a gazebo, a private treehouse available for dinner, a beauty lounge offering regionally inspired spa treatments and a gym. Created by American David Stein, this property is a very luxurious sanctuary.

Lowest Rate: Classic Room, $370; Editor’s Choice: Grand Suite, $920 (minimum stay may apply). Castillo Son Net s/n, 07194 Mallorca. Tel. (34) 971-147-000.

A Son Brull 92 About 35 miles northwest of Palma, this intimate family-run hotel within an 18th-century monastery overlooks fields, orchards and olive groves outside the charming town of Pollença. The 23 individually decorated rooms feature contemporary furniture that contrasts with original beamed ceilings and exposed stonework. Request one of the two-bedroom Villa Suites that come with GRAN HOTEL SON NET: DOMUSIMAGES - ALEXANDER RUDOLPH private pools. A striking restaurant offers contemporary Mallorcan cooking and an outstanding selection of local wines. Additionally, there is an atmospheric bar housed in a former 18th-century olive mill and a modern bistro. Amenities include a renovated spa with a thermal circuit, a gym and an outdoor heated pool. Daily yoga sessions, a tennis court, nearby golf courses and extensive hiking and biking trails are also available. The hotel is closed from mid-November to mid-February. P

Lowest Rate: Superior Room, $630; Editor’s Choice: Villa, $1,690. Carretera Palma-Pollença PM 220, Pollença. Tel. (34) 971-535-353.

RECOMMENDED GRAND HOTELS AND LARGER RESORTS

A

WEST COAST: I_COMPASS / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES Belmond La Residencia 95 This luxurious and idyllic retreat occupies 16th- and 17th-century farmhouses just outside the historic art colony of Deià. All 74 guest rooms (and one private villa) are furnished with handcarved beds and fine antiques. Atmospheric salons open onto terraces overlooking elegant grounds. Café Miró showcases paintings by its namesake, and El Olivo serves dinner in a candlelit garden. Amenities include two panoramic swimming pools, tennis courts, a gym and an extensive spa. Complimentary boat excursions and shuttle service to a nearby pebbly beach are available. The hotel is closed from mid-November to late March. Lowest Rate: Classic Double Room, $710; Editor’s Choice: Superior Junior Suite, $1,290. Son Canals s/n, 07179 Deià. Tel. (34) 971-639-011. P

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 27 Menorca

enorca, declared a Biosphere RESTAURANTS crowd of locals in the pretty Reserve by UNESCO in little port town of Fornells. Tuck M Ca Na Pilar into a caldereta de llagosta, the 1993, is shyly stepping into the Chef Victor Lidón started cook- rich rock-lobster stew in tomato spotlight as the unspoiled Mediter- ing in his family’s restaurant broth that’s its signature dish. ranean destination you’ve always at 16 and then worked abroad Carrer Escoles 31, Fornells. Tel. dreamed of finding before the before becoming head chef at (34) 971-376-442. El Racó de . When crowds got there. The quietest and it closed, he decided to return Mon Restaurant most authentically rural of the home and has since trans- At this charming art-gallery-like four Balearic Islands has recently formed his family’s tavern restaurant, chef Felip Llufriu seen the opening of several superb into one of the most charm- updates traditional Menorcan hotels, and it has emerged as a ing restaurants on the island. dishes with clever garnishes FONTENILLE MENORCA SANTA PONSA: YANN DERET YANN PONSA: SANTA MENORCA FONTENILLE Avenida de la Mar 1, Es Migjorn and impeccable technique.

serious gastronomic destination. Made with mostly local ingredi- Connoisseurs of the Balearics insist Gran. Tel. (34) 971-370-212. ents, his flavorful food is deeply Menorca has the best beaches. The Can Bernat des Grau satisfying. Look for the can- 30-mile-long and 10-mile-wide In the countryside just outside nelloni stuffed with creamed island is also a terrific destination Mahón, this amiable tavern is chicken. Passeig Sant Nicolau 4, for walkers: The recently renovated one of the best seafood restau- Ciutadella. Tel. (34) 971-381-718. rants on the island. Because it Cami de Cavalls is a well-marked has its own fishing boat, the Rels 185-mile footpath that circles catch of the day is impeccable. The name of this restaurant the island. And Menorca is avidly The menu runs to dishes like means “roots” in English, a equestrian, with many riding trails white with clams and reference to the fact that the and several stables that hire out the beautifully made rice dishes. pair of chefs in the kitchen are locally bred black horses native to Closed Monday. Carretera Mahón Menorca natives who returned to their home after cooking at a the island. 3, Carrer de Fornells, Maó. Tel. (34) 650-974-685. range of famous restaurants in EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY MENORCA: GRAN CUGÓ

Europe. This restaurant serves Perched on cliffs overlooking one Club Náutico Binisafua a menu of inventive contempo- of the world’s greatest natural This stylish casual sea shack- rary Catalan dishes. Calle Sant harbors, the pretty little town of style restaurant overlooking Isidre 33, Ciutadella. Tel. (34) the Mediterranean is a local fa- Mahón, Menorca’s largest city, with 971-480-516. vorite for Catalan comfort-food a population of almost 30,000, is dishes like deep-fried baby Smoix quietly becoming a stylish, arty artichokes, steamed mussels, Located in a former jewelry fac- place with the opening of several grilled turbot, black rice with tory, this restaurant has a sleek shellfish and , and paella. industrial-chic décor. Chef

excellent boutique hotels and the PALACIO ENRIQUE TORRALBENC: Miquel Sánchez is one of the upcoming launch of a striking new Reservations are essential. island’s most inventive cooks. arts center by the famous Swiss art Passeig de la Mar 29-31, Sant Lluís. Tel. (34) 971-357-741. Dishes like a succulent ragout gallery Hauser & Wirth. of pork with shrimp in leek-and- Es Cranc lemon cream express his rustic Reservations are also essential but suave style. Closed Monday. at this stylish white-painted Avenida Jaume El Conqueridor 38, restaurant with a fashionable Ciutadella. Tel. (34) 971-382-808.

28 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A Torralbenc 93 Housed within a whitewashed farmhouse dating from the 19th century, this casually elegant hotel 8 miles from the beach town of Cala’n Porter is perched on a ridge overlooking the sea. The 27 tastefully appointed guest rooms and suites take inspiration from rural architecture, and most feature exposed wood-beamed cathe- dral ceilings, straw area rugs and small private terraces overlooking the estate’s olive groves. Designed by architect Antoni Esteva, the hotel’s very comfortable common areas include a gourmet restaurant. The menu offered is small but carefully conceived to frame Menorcan culinary tradition with a modern sophistication. This 190-acre estate also encompasses a saltwater swimming pool and a wellness and fitness area (open to the public), plus a 34-acre vineyard and wine cellar.

Lowest Rate: Albenc Double Room, $270; Editor’s Choice: Sea View Room, $380. Ctra. Maó, Cala’n Porter, Km.10, 07730 Alaior. Tel. (34) 97-137-7211.

A Cugó Gran Menorca 92 Located a few miles south of Mahón, this handsome ginger-

FONTENILLE MENORCA SANTA PONSA: YANN DERET YANN PONSA: SANTA MENORCA FONTENILLE colored stone manor house hotel nestled within a 250-acre estate

has 12 stylish guest rooms. Beautiful public spaces include a romantic candlelit dining room serving gourmet and a large lounge on the first floor handsomely appointed with cushy sofas, shelves stocked with books in many languages and a Juliet balcony overlooking the property’s vineyards and olive groves. Spacious guest lodgings feature large windows that flood the room with natural light, dark parquet floors, beamed ceilings and French doors that lead to private terraces with neatly trimmed box tree hedges. Surrounded by topiary, the infinity pool is flanked by terraces furnished with comfortable chaise longues. Other amenities include a small spa offering holistic massages and a gym.

Lowest Rate: Superior Room, $340; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe Room, $410 ( plan available). Camí Sa Forana s/n, 07712 Sant Climent. Tel. (34) 97-115-7447. CUGÓ GRAN MENORCA: HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY MENORCA: GRAN CUGÓ

A Fontenille Menorca Santa Ponsa 91 This handsome mid-19th-century manor house with a crim- son-painted stucco façade is set on a hillside surrounded by lush Moorish-style gardens with trickling fountains, orange trees and bright blazes of bougainvillea. The 21 guest rooms are divided among the main manor and several outbuildings. Charming Prestige Suites, which come with garden terraces, feature an appealingly rustic décor with beamed ceilings, wicker wing chairs, beige stone floors and handmade oyster-colored tiles in the well-equipped

TORRALBENC: ENRIQUE PALACIO ENRIQUE TORRALBENC: baths. Though the property lacks an on-site dining option at the moment (a new restaurant will be opening this summer), the hotel’s nearby sister property, Torre Vella, has an excellent restaurant serving primarily vegetarian dishes. The magnificent grounds encompass a plunge pool, and a new spa housed within the estate’s 18th-century cisterns will be revealed in 2020.

Lowest Rate: Classic Room, $300; Editor’s Choice: Prestige Suite, $390. Carretera de Llucalari, 07730 Alaior. Tel. (34) 971-372-352.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 29 Valencia

alencia is Spain’s third-largest city, with a population EDITOR TIPS V of nearly 1 million. Its most famous building, La Lonja de la Seda, or the Silk Exchange, is a fantastical 15th-century High-Speed Train Travel structure with a magnificent great hall supported by spiral- The comfortable Euromed high-speed train from carved stone columns. The nearby La Seu cathedral dates to 1262 Barcelona makes the and overlooks the Plaza de la Virgen, a charming square lined journey here in three with rows of orange trees and busy cafés. Valencia can also boast hours, hugging the coast notable modern architecture, including Santiago Calatrava’s City most of the time. We also of Arts and Sciences, a remarkable set of structures that look enjoy arriving at Valencia’s like the sun-bleached skeleton of a whale. Famous for its paella, romantic Estació del Norte, a brilliant piece of Valencia is also a destination for food lovers. civil engineering and a modernista (Spanish art nouveau) architectural

Town Hall Square masterpiece.

Authentic Paella For Valencianos, an authen- tic paella uses only short- grained Spanish such as Senia or Bomba. Try it at a legendary house like Casa Roberto or La Pepica, founded in 1898 and a favorite of Ernest Hemingway. :ANGEL VILLALBA / MOMENT / GETTY IMAGES

30 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A Hospes Palau de la Mar 90 Set in the Eixample Noble district, this stylish hotel occupies a renovated 19th-century merchant’s house on the edge of the old city. A marble staircase leads to 66 spacious guest accommoda- tions that feature Italian furniture, Egyptian linens, queen-size beds and hardwood floors, with Junior Suites including living areas and baths with Byzantine-style tubs. The fine Ampar Restaurant presents contemporary seasonal that showcases local produce and . Other dining options include a sleek black-and-white cocktail lounge serving light snacks. Be sure to try the Valencian horchata. Amenities are highlighted by a comprehensive spa that offers a wellness center with a fully equipped fitness room, a Turkish bath, a sauna and a Jacuzzi, plus three treatments rooms. There is also a golf less than 10 miles from the property. Lowest Rate: Dreamer’s Room, $220; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $440. Navarro Reverter 14, 46004 Valencia. Tel. (34) 963-162-884.

“The Spanish display a talent for the creative synthesis of old and new, Valencia’s Hospes Palau de la Mar being

:ANGEL VILLALBA / MOMENT / GETTY IMAGES a conspicuous example.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 31 Andalusia

he name Andalusia is derived WHEN TO GO TAPAS BARS from the Arabic “Al-Andalus.” T April-May and October-Novem- Bar Juanito For nearly 800 years, the Moors ber are the best travel months. In Jerez de la Frontera, Bar (North African Arab/Berber But we also found the region Juanito is widely considered Muslims) lavished affection on enchanting in late February, to be the best tapas bar in the their conquered territory, leaving just on the cusp of spring, city. Calle Pescadería Vieja 8-10. Tel. (34) 956-334-838. a legacy of majestic architecture when days were sunny, nights cool, crowds thinner and room and exquisite gardens. When the Bodegas Castañeda rates lower. Spaniards finally expelled them This notable spot in Granada in 1492, Andalusia entered a new SEVILLE RESTAURANTS serves wine out of wooden kegs golden age with the discovery of mounted into the walls. The pan Az-Zait tomate layered with jamón is the Americas. Today, the charm In Seville, you can dine consis- especially tasty. Calle Almire- of cities such as Córdoba, Seville tently well here. Feast on An- ceros 1-5. Tel. (34) 958-215-464. and Granada is complemented by tonio Conejero’s coddled eggs excellent roads and 190-mph AVE with octopus and truffles, cold Casa El Pisto When in Córdoba, try the tapas trains from Madrid. tomato soup with spider crab at Taberna San Miguel “Casa El and olive-oil ice cream, and Pisto,” a family-owned restau- HOTEL LA FUENTE DE LA HIGUERA: LOSLOCATIONS.COM Iberian pork cheeks bathed in We also recommend a visit to rant decorated with 1880s-vin- tomato sauce. Plaza de San Lo- medieval Arcos de la Frontera, one tage tile walls and bullfighting renzo 1. Tel. (34) 954-906-475. of the so-called “pueblos blancos” paraphernalia. Plaza de San (white villages), which caps a scenic Bodeguitas Antonio Romero Miguel 1. Tel. (34) 957-470-166. crag above the Guadalete River. For simpler fare and tapas, head to this friendly restaurant Carmona is perched on a steep, EDITOR TIP near the cathedral. Opt for the flat-topped hill above the plain of generous plate of paper-thin Festive Seville the Guadalquivir River and has slices of jamón Ibérico, aged One of the most memora- a quietly aristocratic character. manchego and crisp ble times to visit Seville is The handsome city of Jerez de la potato croquettes. It proves during Semana Santa, the Frontera is renowned for its sherry the perfect foil for glasses of week leading up to Eas-

chilled Manzanilla. Calle Antonia HACIENDA DE SAN RAFAEL: WAYNE CHASAN bodegas. And 75 miles east of Jerez, ter Sunday. Processions Díaz 19. Tel. (34) 954-223-939. of hermandades and cof- the picturesque town of Ronda is radías (religious brother- Enrique Becerra situated 2,500 feet above sea level hoods), dressed in peniten- This eatery is the place to go for on either side of “El Tajo,” the tial robes, are followed by authentic Andalusian fare. The dramatic 390-foot gorge of the spectacular floats bearing lively ground-floor tapas bar Guadalevín River. Although the 17th-century images of has its partisans, but the dining Costa del Sol has been disastrously the Virgin or Christ. The room upstairs offers a more in- atmosphere is festive, with overbuilt in many places, some of timate experience. Not to miss bands playing passion- the golf courses are notable. are chef Becerra’s exceptional ate flamenco-style hymns fried stuffed with about the Passion and the shrimp. Calle Gamazo 2. Tel. (34) Virgin’s sorrows. 954-213-049.

32 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A Hacienda de San Rafael 95 Amid a 350-acre working farm on the fertile Andalusian plains, this hospitable country inn owned by the Reid family is about 45 minutes south of Seville. The 11 duplex lodgings in restored barns are grouped around a cobbled, bougainvillea-filled garden courtyard of an 18th-century hacienda. The three luxurious thatched casitas, each set in its own private garden area, share an infinity pool designated for casita guests only. The property also encompasses a library, a Mediterranean restaurant, two alfresco bars, a tennis court and three pools. This property is a tranquil and relaxing base for day trips to Seville and the famed sherry bodegas of Jerez. Note that the hotel is closed until March 1, at which time all three of the new two-bedroom Pool Suites will have opened.

Lowest Rate: Deluxe Room, $410; Editor’s Choice: Casita Suite, $770. Carretera Nacional IV (Km 594), 41730 Las Cazebas de San Juan. Tel. (34) 954-227-116.

A Hospes Palacio del Bailío 93 This atmospheric hotel encompasses 16th- and 18th-century mansions surrounding courtyards planted with orange trees. The main patio features a glass floor that displays original Roman ruins 14 feet below ground. All 51 guest lodgings feature a minimalist décor, terra-cotta tiles, velvet headboards and original wall paint- ings. Most of the eight Junior Suites include reading areas. The excellent Restaurant, overseen by chef Javi Moreno, serves a prix fixe menu at dinner that combines ingredients and

HOTEL LA FUENTE DE LA HIGUERA: LOSLOCATIONS.COM cooking styles from , Mexico, Vietnam, Japan and Thailand. The delicious dishes are unique and memorable. Other amenities include a spa with underground Roman baths, a casual bar and an outdoor swimming pool set in an orange grove flanked by Roman columns and a tapas bar open from April to October.

Lowest Rate: Dreamer’s Room, $420; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $870. Ramírez de las Casas Deza 10-12, 14001 Córdoba. Tel. (34) 957-498-993.

A Hotel La Fuente de la Higuera 92 With 11 rooms and suites housed in a renovated olive-oil mill, this family-run boutique hotel provides country-house comforts amid rolling hills and olive groves, about 10 minutes outside the HACIENDA DE SAN RAFAEL: WAYNE CHASAN picturesque town of Ronda. Individually decorated lodgings feature ivory walls, painted wood floors, antique furniture, ceiling fans and mosquito nets over wrought-iron beds. Additionally, some have working fireplaces and copper tubs, and all open onto private terraces or gardens furnished with loungers and a hammock. The gourmet restaurant serves delicious dinners with a menu that changes daily and features produce from the hotel’s grounds. A small pool provides an idyllic place to relax in the landscaped garden. Guided walking, biking and wine-tasting tours are available upon request, as are massage treatments.

Lowest Rate: Double Room, $200; Editor’s Choice: Classic Suite, $250 (meal plans are available). Partido de los Frontones s/n, 29400 Ronda, Málaga. Tel. (34) 952-165-608.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 33 A Corral del Rey 91 Situated in a maze of narrow streets in the Barrio Alfalfa in Seville, this 17-room hideaway greatly resembles the riads of Marrakech and Fes. (This is a venture by the Reid family, who own the Hacienda de San Rafael, a recommended country hotel 45 minutes south of Seville.) The property comprises two 17th-century buildings that were once private residences. Rooms are snug but decorated with great flair by Kuky Mora-Figueroa — otherwise known as Mrs. Reid. Most desirable are the Pool Suites (also called Double Room with Terrace [Pool]), with their own outdoor spaces and plunge pools. Common areas include a breakfast area with a bar where tea is served in the afternoon and tapas and premium are offered in the evening. There is also an appealing lounge with an honor bar and a rooftop terrace with a swimming pool.

Lowest Rate: Superior Double Room, $340; Editor’s Choice: Double Room with Terrace (Pool), $730. Calle Corral del Rey 12, 41004 Seville. Tel. (34) 954-227-116.

Hospes Las Casas A del Rey de Baeza 91 A 10-minute stroll from Seville’s cathedral and a five-minute walk from the city’s most popular shopping streets, this beautiful hotel occupies a traditional Andalusian-style house. Comprised of two 18th-century residences, the enclave features 41 accommodations grouped around inner courtyards. Smallish guest rooms are done in a palette of cream and brown and come with beamed ceilings, tile floors and dark wooden furnishings. Azahar Restaurant, helmed by chef Rafael Cantizano, offers a fine tapas menu of classic Sevillan-Andalusian specialties. Other amenities include a library and a rooftop spa with an outdoor swimming pool, a solarium terrace and a casual poolside bar.

Lowest Rate: Dreamer’s Room, $410; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $570 (meal plans are available). Plaza Jesus De La Redención 2,

41003 Seville. Tel. (34) 954-561-496. HOSPES LAS CASAS DEL REY DE BAEZA: DESIGN HOTELS

A Hospes Palacio de los Patos 91 Set in a Belle Epoque palace and a modern annex, this striking 42-room hotel is a 10-minute drive from the Alhambra and a short walk from Granada’s famous cathedral. Well-tended gardens feature Arabian-style fountains. The light and airy guest rooms have chestnut floors and other original details but come with modern furnishings. Most Junior Suites showcase preserved mosaic floors and colorful drawings on the ceiling and feature a warm, earthy color palette and garden and city views. Avoid the accommodations in the annex, which lack atmosphere and charm. Los Patos Restaurant serves seasonally inspired local specialties, and a terrace bar offers cocktails and a light tapas menu. Other amenities include a wellness center with a dry sauna, a Turkish bath and an indoor thermal swimming pool.

Lowest Rate: Dreamer’s Room, $320; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $610 (meal plans are available). Solarillo de Gracia 1, 18002 Granada. Tel. (34) 958-535-790.

34 — SPAIN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM RECOMMENDED GRAND HOTELS AND LARGER RESORTS

A Finca Cortesin Hotel 94 Close to the Mediterranean below the white village of Casares, this gorgeously decorated 67-suite hotel anchors a world-class golf resort. Spacious Junior Suites are high-ceilinged, with travertine floors and private terraces or gardens. Four-bedroom villas are also available. Dining options include Spanish, Italian and Japanese restaurants. The property’s crown jewel is the magnificent golf course by Cabell B. Robinson. Other amenities encompass ATLANTICa beach club, tennis courts, a gym and a spa with indoor and outdoor pools, thermal baths, a hammam and OCEANa “snow cave.” The hotel is closed from early January to mid-February. Lowest Rate: Junior Suite, $880; Editor’s Choice: Executive Suite, $1,230. Carretera de Casares s/n, 29690 Casares. Tel. (34) 952-937-800. P FRANCE A Hotel Alfonso XIII 94 Adorned by arches, decorative brickwork, wrought iron and ornamental towers, this grand 148-room hotel is conveniently set near the city’s cathedral and Alcázar palace. Spacious guest rooms are decorated in three styles: Isabelline Gothic, Castilian and Moorish. Grand Deluxe Rooms provide sitting areas and views of the historic property’s garden or the surrounding city. The sophisticated Restaurante San Fernando occupies a colonnaded Andalusian-style courtyard. Other dining options include a classic tapas restaurant and the elegant Bar Americano. The hotel also has an outdoor swimming pool and a fitness center. Lowest Rate: Deluxe BAY OF BISCAY Double Room, $680; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe Suite, $1,140. San Fernando 2, 41004 Seville. Tel. (34) 954-917-000. P A 92 La Bobadilla SAN SEBASTIÁN SANTIAGOAn hour from MálagaAS TURandIA Granada,S this Andalusian village-style enclave stands amid 860 acres of olive and oak DE COMPOSTELA CANTABRIA BASQUE trees. The 70 well-lit residences feature private gardens,COUNTRY terraces or balconies. Dining options include El Cortijo NAVARRA ANDORRA Restaurant for regional cuisine, the more formal La Finca and the new El Mirador, open in summer. Amenities GALICIA PAMPLONA encompass a seasonal outdoor swimming pool, tennis courts, a fitness center and a spa with steam baths, LEÓN LA saunas, an indoor pool and a solarium. -tastingRIOJA sessions, biking tours and guided hikesGIRONA are available. The hotel is closed fromCAS mid-DecemberTILLA Y LEO throughN February. Lowest Rate: Deluxe Superior Room, $260; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite with Balcony or Terrace, $360. Finca la Bobadilla, 18300 Loja. Tel. (34) 95-832-1861.CATALONIA ARAGON NORTE VALLADOLID PORTO A BARCELONA Parador de Granada 91 SALAMANCA DOUROSituated R. within the walls of the Alhambra, this romantic 40-room Mission-style inn is a 10-minute walk from Granada’s old town. Accommodations have contemporarySPAIN furniture and décor with Moorish touches. Public MADRID 0 100 MI COIMBRAareasCENTR are adornedO with tapestries, old paintings and beautiful antiques. The traditional restaurantBALEARIC has a SEAcoffered HOSPES LAS CASAS DEL REY DE BAEZA: DESIGN HOTELS ceiling and a scenic terrace. Other public areas include0 a cloistered100 courtyard,KM mosaic-tile walkways and lovely gardens. Make reservations for tours of the Alhambra Palace in advance. Lowest Rate: Standard DoubleMALLORCA Room, $470; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $880. Real de la Alhambra s/n, 18009 Granada. Tel. (34) 958-221-440. PORTUGAL TOLEDO VALENCIA PALMA EXTREMADURA CASTILLLA LA MANCHA COMUNIDAD VALENCIANA MENORCA SINTRA IBIZA FORMENTERA AVE TRAIN ROUTE (1.75 HRS TO MURCIA MADRID) CÓRDOBA CARMONA

PORTUGAL SEVILLE GRANADA JEREZ DE LA ANDALUSIA FRONTERA RONDA CÁDIZ MÁLAGA

STRAIT OF GIBRALTAR ATLANTIC MEDITERRANEAN OCEAN MOROCCO SEA

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SPAIN — 35

ALGERIA Portugal

plit by the Tagus River, Portugal WHEN TO GO is blessed with a diverse S Portugal has an agreeable cli- landscape and a sun-drenched mate, with mild winters and coastline. The north is chiefly summers that are dry and warm mountainous and indented but seldom oppressively hot. by steep valleys, whereas the The Mediterranean Algarve re- gion is the sunniest, driest and south is a land of rolling plains. warmest part of the country. Traditional Portuguese architec- ture is extremely distinctive, TIME especially the highly ornamented Five hours ahead of New York Manueline style from the early (EST). 16th century. Fish is integral to the country’s cuisine, especially dry CURRENCY cod (), grilled sardines Euro (€). Fluctuating rate val- and caldeirada, a potato-based fish ued at €1.00 = US$1.12 as of stew. Wines have been produced February 2020. in Portugal since the time of the Roman Empire, and its table wines U.S. EMBASSY

currently offer some of the world’s Lisbon, Tel. (351) 21-727-3300. best value for money. The country is Consulate: Ponta Delgada, Tel. renowned for its pousadas, chains (351) 29-630-8330. of lodgings in historic buildings. ENTRY REQUIREMENTS It also offers an ever-expanding number of golf courses. Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay and con- taining at least two unstamped pages). Visit travel.state.gov and, for travelers’ health infor- mation, cdc.gov. IAN.CUIYI / MOMENT / GETTY IMAES

36 — PORTUGAL IAN.CUIYI / MOMENT / GETTY IMAES

Coastline near Lagos, the Algarve HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM PORTUGAL — 37 Lisbon

isbon is exceptionally WHEN TO GO “Pudim Abade de Priscos,” striking, but its homogeneity a sweet with pork L Because the Atlantic moderates greaves, raspberry and wasabi is chiefly a result of an earthquake Lisbon’s climate, preventing it sorbet, was a delightful end to that virtually destroyed the city from becoming too hot even in our meal. Closed Sunday and in 1755. Today’s Lisbon would be summer, we like to go anytime Monday. Rua Serpa Pinto 10A. unrecognizable to the navigators between May and November. Tel. (351) 21-342-0607. such as Vasco da Gama, who set RESTAURANTS Cantinho do Avillez sail from the Tagus estuary during Also owned by Avillez, this Alma Portugal’s Golden Age in the late popular bistro specializes in Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa com- 15th century. Only the old Alfama hearty Portuguese comfort bines Portuguese ingredients district is still laced with medieval food, including appealing start- and Mediterranean and Asian alleys. The Belém neighborhood is ers such as tartlets filled with influences to great effect. partridge, bacon and chive; home to a wealth of monuments, Opt for the five-course Alma chicken liver sautéed with onion including the iconic Belém Tower menu, which has included and Port marmalade; and veal and the Jerónimos Monastery, glazed baby carrots with goat trotters stewed with chick- where da Gama is buried. Bairro cheese, dried fruit bulgur and peas, cumin and lemon confit. cumin oil; seared foie gras with Alto is the home of fado music, The far-ranging main courses apple, granola and coffee; and whose melancholy strains are said include lamb tagine in a cumin crunchy-skinned suckling pig in sauce; Peruvian-style beet- to embody the Portuguese national a pepper jus with a turnip top root ceviche with an avocado temperament. purée. The five-course Costa cream; and giant red shrimp a Costa menu is exclusively from the Algarve with Thai Big international brands haven’t comprised of , seasonings. The memorable such as sole with chorizo in a taken over Lisbon’s retail scene, include an orange- chestnut hollandaise sauce. and-vanilla crème brûlée, and allowing local talent to shine. Closed Monday. Rua Anchieta 15. a raspberry cheesecake in a jar While the usual luxury suspects Tel. (351) 21-347-0650. topped with basil leaves. Rua SILVIA BIANCHINI / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES are clustered on Avenida da dos Duques de Bragança 7. Tel. Belcanto Liberdade, the shopping areas (351) 21-199-2369. After a stint at Tavares, one of Chiado and Príncipe Real are of the oldest restaurants in Estórias na Casa da Comida lined with small boutiques that Lisbon, brilliant young chef An 18th-century townhouse showcase Portuguese excellence in José Avillez moved to Belcanto. provides a luxurious setting textiles, ceramics and leather. He creates intricate dishes for one of the city’s loveliest with mysterious names such restaurants. Attention to detail as “A Horta da Galinha dos and the freshest ingredients Ovos de Ouro” (The Garden result in superlative dishes such of the Goose That Laid the as grouper in a mussel broth Golden Eggs), a lovely starter with portobello mushroom, of eggs with crunchy bread red pepper and spinach; seared and mushrooms, or “Mergulho scallops paired with asparagus no Mar” (Dip in the Sea), a atop a tart lime risotto; suckling succulent composition of sea pig with smoked ham and rösti bass, seaweed and shellfish. potatoes; and roasted lamb

38 — PORTUGAL HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM with an herb crust served with a Tasca da Esquina pumpkin purée and oven-baked Run by Vítor Sobral, a Por- rice. Closed Sunday. Travessa tuguese food celebrity, this das Amoreiras 1. Tel. (351) 21- friendly, good-value restaurant 386-0889. is perfect for a casual but deli- cious meal of Portuguese com- Gambrinus fort food. Starters are made Remodeled in 1964 by the for sharing, and among those architect Maurício de Vascon- not to miss are the selections celos, diners here enjoy some of cured , , of Lisbon’s finest seafood, as and croquettes, while excellent well as game, in a masculine main courses include sautéed atmosphere engendered by shrimp with garlic sauce, tuna paneled walls and dark leather steak with sweet potatoes, chairs. You can always be sure and preserved mackerel fillets of finding a wide selection of topped with salmon caviar. Rua shellfish. Additionally, look for Domingos Sequeira 41C. Tel. Belém Tower sea bass cooked in a tomato (351) 21-099-3939. sauce with ham, onions and white wine, or turbot in a rich EDITOR TIPS broth. Partridge and duck are served with rice in the local Lisbon’s Best Viewpoints style. Rua das Portas de Santo Lisbon’s many hills have allowed the city to create numerous Antão 23. Tel. (351) 21-342-1466. miradouros, or viewpoints, around its center. The best are the Miradouro de Santa Luzia and the Miradouro Sophia de Loco Mello Breyner Andresen (formerly the Miradouro da Graça) Chef Alexandre Silva runs this in Alfama and, on the other side of the city, the Miradouro de chic Michelin-starred restau- São Pedro de Alcântara. rant specializing in hypermod- SILVIA BIANCHINI / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES ern, hyperseasonal Portuguese Portugal’s Tradition of Fado cuisine. The restaurant offers Fado, traditionally performed by a single vocalist accompanied only one menu that changes by a trio of guitars, is Portugal’s great contribution to music. daily: the 17-course “Loco” Reserve a table after dinner, as the food rarely matches the menu. Memorable dishes have quality of the singing. Consider these two contrasting but included mussels in a delicate equally memorable venues: In Alfama, Casa de Linhares pres- broth with grilled leeks, a sweet ents lyrical singers in a candlelit space of soaring brick vaults. O Faia in Bairro Alto has less atmosphere, but there, altos such shrimp from Peniche topped as Lenita Gentil and Filipa Cardoso grab you by the throat and with its own electric-blue eggs, don’t let go, so powerful are their voices. and intensely flavored smoked

duck breast with quince jam Dining Well in Touristy Belém and Savoy cabbage fried in Belém has no shortage of tourist-trap restaurants, but we ate goose fat. The wine list con- extremely well at Nunes Real Marisqueira, a casual seafood tains exclusively Portuguese spot between the Jerónimos Monastery and the Belém Tower, labels. Closed Sunday and Mon- which was filled almost exclusively by locals. Closed Monday. day. Rua dos Navegantes 53B. Tel. Rua Bartolomeu Dias 112, Lote. Tel. (351) 21-301-9899. (351) 21-395-1861.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM PORTUGAL — 39 A Valverde Hotel 94 This chic 25-room hotel occupying a townhouse is in the middle of the grand Avenida da Liberdade, a tree-shaded boulevard lined with top designer boutiques. The contemporary but warm and quirky décor was designed by Porto-based firm Bastir, which also designed the Bairro Alto Hotel. The cheerful, youthful staff provide top-notch service in both the hotel and its very good Sítio restaurant located in the basement, adjacent to a leafy courtyard where afternoon tea is served. The property also has a pool, a hot tub and a library-like lounge just off the wood-paneled reception area. Junior Suites, painted in tan and black, have herringbone wood floors, walls decorated with etchings and abstract prints, and a striking mix of contemporary and vintage pieces. (Avoid Mini and Classic rooms.) This hotel will delight those seeking a tranquil residential atmosphere. PALÁCIO BELMONTE: JACOB TERMASEN

Lowest Rate: Mini, $380; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $490. Avenida da Liberdade 164, 1250 Lisbon. Tel. (351) 210-940-300.

A Santa Clara 1728 93 Set within an 18th-century mansion, this six-suite hotel designed by Lisbon architect Manuel Aires Mateus is located in the quiet Alfama neighborhood. Mateus took care to use traditional building materials (Lioz marble from Sintra) as well as pedigreed furnishings (B&B Italia beds, Hans Wegner chairs) to create an atmosphere of stylish serenity that also feels inherently Portuguese. Public spaces include an entrance hall centered around a modular sofa

under an enormous moon-shaped globe light, and Ceia restau- SANTIAGO DE ALFAMA: GONÇALO MILLER rant, where convivial dinners are served. Of the two categories of rooms, opt for the larger Santa Clara suites. Note that the hotel lacks air-conditioning, and all rooms are devoid of televisions and phones. The hotel’s pared-down but exquisite interior design resembles, in many ways, a sophisticated Japanese ryokan.

Lowest Rate: Suite Tejo, $450; Editor’s Choice: Suite Santa Clara, $540. Campo de Santa Clara 128, 1100-473 Lisbon. Tel. (351) 964-362-816.

A Santiago de Alfama 92

This 19-room hotel is housed within the walls of an ecru-colored SANTA CLARA 1728: NELSON GARRIDO 15th-century palace. Common areas include a skylit lobby tucked between two grand stone arches and a dining area colorfully appointed with gingham tablecloths, bright red drapes and vividly patterned wallpaper. Some of the guest rooms feature unusual configurations but are bright and airy and exceedingly comfortable. Recommended Junior Suites feature generously sized bedrooms with large windows and vaulted ceilings, several ample closets and ceramic-tiled baths. The building has some enchanting surprises, including a small terrace on the third floor with a view over the São Tiago church, where Christopher Columbus is said to have

been wed in 1479. The congenial staff contribute to the hotel’s VALVERDE HOTEL: LIVING ALLOWED easygoing ambiance and air of relaxed hospitality.

Lowest Rate: Classic Alfama Bedroom, $270; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $450. Rua de Santiago 10-14, 1100-494 Lisbon. Tel. (351) 213-941-616.

40 — PORTUGAL HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A Bairro Alto Hotel 90 This stylish hotel occupies an 1845 vintage building in the fash- ionable and atmospheric district of the same name. A newly built annex with a panoramic terrace has added 32 rooms, bringing the total count to 55 guest lodgings. All accommodations include double-glazed windows, hardwood floors and antique furnishings. As standard rooms are small, book only a Deluxe Room or above. Public areas showcase contemporary cast-iron sculptures by artist Rui Chafes, original photography and bird frescoes. Overseen by star chef Nuno Mendes, Bahr restaurant serves seasonally inspired regional fare in a relaxed dining room or on a terrace affording impressive city and river views. There is also a fitness and wellness center on the fourth floor.

Lowest Rate: Classic Room, $400; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite,

PALÁCIO BELMONTE: JACOB TERMASEN $680. Praça Luís de Camões 2, 1200-243 Lisbon. Tel. (351) 213-408-288.

A Palácio Belmonte 90 In the hillside Alfama district, this evocative 11-suite hotel occupies an exquisitely restored 15th-century palace built on top of ancient fortified Roman and Moorish walls. Impressive public spaces, including a library and a music room, are furnished with period oil paintings, tapestries and rare antiques. Each guest room is individually decorated, but most have hardwood floors, vaulted ceilings, 18th-century blue-and-white azulejos (hand-painted

SANTIAGO DE ALFAMA: GONÇALO MILLER tiles) and private terraces with river views. Though the hotel lacks elevators, televisions, minibars, air-conditioning and room service, there is a small black-marble saltwater infinity swimming pool in the Mediterranean-style gardens, plus a restaurant serving seasonally inspired overseen by chef Philippe Gelfi (open Wednesday to Sunday) tucked within the palace walls.

Lowest Rate: Concept Suite, $560; Editor’s Choice: Terrace Suite, $900. Páteo Dom Fradique 14, 1100-624 Lisbon. Tel. (351) 218-816-600.

RECOMMENDED GRAND HOTELS AND LARGER RESORTS SANTA CLARA 1728: NELSON GARRIDO A Olissippo Lapa Palace 94 In a quiet residential embassy district, this lavish 109-room hotel has views of the Tagus and downtown. Three wings contain traditionally decorated rooms, most with balconies. Lovely grounds have an outdoor heated pool and a seasonal tented café. The restored 1870 mansion offers ornate salons and a refined Mediterranean restaurant. Amenities include a health club-spa with an indoor pool and gym. Lowest Rate: Garden Room, $440; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe Palace Room, $860. Rua do Pau de Bandeira 4, 1249-021 Lisbon. Tel. (351) 21-394-9494. P A Pousada de Lisboa 92

VALVERDE HOTEL: LIVING ALLOWED This impressively refurbished 90-room former ministry is centrally located on the Praça do Comércio, overlooking the Tagus. Reserve only a Mezzanine or a Suite, ideally with a plaza view. Amenities include a small rooftop spa and a pool just big enough for laps. There is also the excellent Rib Beef & Wine restaurant and an atmospheric bar. Service is consistently friendly and professional. Lowest Rate: Classic Room, $320; Editor’s Choice: Praça do Comércio Suite, $1,450. Praça do Comércio 31-34, 1100-148 Lisbon. Tel. (351) 210-407-640. P

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM PORTUGAL — 41 Lisbon Area

ocated little more than a 30-minute drive from Lisbon, EDITOR TIPS L the granite Serra de Sintra is a place of wooded ravines and tumbling streams that was once a favorite summer retreat Carcavelos Wine Region of Portugal’s royal court. In the town of Sintra itself, attrac- Set between Lisbon and tions include the extraordinary 19th-century Palácio Nacional Sintra, the Carcavelos wine region was famed in centu- da Pena and the summer residence of the kings of Portugal, ries past, but only about the Palácio Nacional de Sintra. The lesser-known Quinta da 25 acres of vineyards have Regaleira is an elaborate Manueline-Gothic mansion that its survived the suburban en- owner filled with enigmatic symbols relating to the Freema- croachments of Lisbon and sons, Rosicrucians and Knights Templar. And the ruined Estoril. Since it’s almost im- possible to find this nutty medieval Castle of the Moors is also worth a visit, if for no other fortified wine outside of reason than its sweeping panoramic views over Sintra and the Portugal, we always seek it sea. Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of mainland Europe, out when we’re in the area. lies 11 miles to the west. Sintra is especially lovely in the fall, Villa Oeiras is one of the last when the season’s mists and melancholy enhance the town’s remaining producers, and romantic and mysterious atmosphere. old Casa Manoel Boullosa Quinta dos Pesos vintages

can still be found. THE ALBATROZ HOTEL: SIMONFREDERICK

Castle of the Moors, Sintra Setúbal Peninsula It’s also easy to make a day trip to the Setúbal Peninsula, just across the Golden Gate-like 25 de Abril Bridge. Don’t miss the viewpoint overlooking the cliffside Convento de Nossa Senhora da Arrábida or the panoramas from the hilltop Castelo de Palmela. The peninsula also makes superb wines. If you visit CASTLE: SAIKO3P / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES only one producer, make it Quinta da Bacalhôa, which has a 15th-century palace and an impressive art col- lection. We organized our excursion through Wine Tourism in Portugal.

42 — PORTUGAL HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A The Albatroz Hotel 93 This 19th-century mansion hotel located in the heart of Cascais is 30 minutes west of downtown Lisbon and 20 minutes south of Sintra. (It is next to the small local station, where trains arrive from Lisbon.) The converted manor and a newer annex house 45 individually decorated guest rooms and six suites. Suites have the added luxury of furnished balconies with sea views. A restaurant offers views of the Estoril Coast and memorable seafood dishes. A captivating terrace bar that extends out over the ocean serves cocktails and a light menu. The hotel also has an attractive swim- ming pool. Wine tastings in the hotel cellar, cooking classes with executive chef Fernando Martinez and tours aboard the hotel’s private yacht are offered. Golf, horseback riding and a variety of water sports are available nearby.

Lowest Room: Collection room, $260; Editor’s Choice: Sea View Suite, $540 (meal plan is available). Rua Frederico Arouca 100, 2750-353 Cascais. Tel. (351) 214-847-380.

THE ALBATROZ HOTEL: SIMONFREDERICK Tivoli Palácio de Seteais A Sintra Hotel 90 This patrician 18th-century mansion hotel overlooking lawns and formal gardens in the romantic resort town of Sintra (a UNESCO World Heritage site) is 40 minutes west of Lisbon. Public rooms contain fine antique furniture, beautiful paintings, tapestries and exquisite trompe l’oeil murals. The 30 lodgings are spacious and well-appointed, and all rooms in the newer wing have living areas. Restaurante Seteais serves Portuguese and international cuisine in a dining room that offers views of hotel gardens and the Sintra Mountains. Other facilities include a large outdoor pool, a spa and a tennis court. Book one of the cooking classes or a tasting in the atmospheric Seteais Colares DOC wine bar. P CASTLE: SAIKO3P / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES Lowest Rate: Superior Garden-View Room, $490; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe Room, $540. Rua Barbosa du Bocage 8, 2710-517 Sintra. Tel. (351) 219-233-200.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM PORTUGAL — 43 Coimbra

ith a dramatic hilltop location, the exceptionally attractive and unspoiled city of W Coimbra served as Portugal’s capital from 1139 to 1260. Important archaeological remains, such as its well-preserved aqueduct, survive from when it was the Roman town of Aeminium. The city evolved into a major cultural center with the relocation (and renaming) of the University of Coimbra in 1537. This internationally famous institution contains an astonish- ingly ornate baroque library. The old town comprises a maze of narrow and picturesque alleys. With a population of around 150,000, Coimbra today is the fourth-largest urban center in Portugal. Overall, the atmosphere of the city is gracious, cultivated and hospitable.

A Quinta das Lágrimas 90 This renovated villa-style hotel in an 18th-century palace set amid a 12-acre park is 10 minutes outside Coimbra’s old center. The 54 comfortable lodgings offer all of the expected luxury amenities. The Old World-style Palace Rooms feature period furnishings and antiques, Garden Rooms provide direct access to the estate’s botanical gardens, and the contemporary Spa Rooms include scenic views of the verdant gardens or the city of Coimbra. Inlaid furniture and original oil paintings decorate the hotel’s elegant salons, art gallery and exotic-wood-paneled library. The gourmet dining room sources many ingredients from the estate’s garden and orchard. Amenities include a spa with an indoor pool, a Turkish bath, a gym and an outdoor garden pool open from May to October, plus a golf academy managed by PGA professionals. STREET: HENRIQUE NDR MARTINS / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES Lowest Rate: Spa Room, $190; Editor’s Choice: Suite, $310. Rua António Augusto Gonçalves, 3041-901 Coimbra. Tel. (351) 239-802-380.

“Quinta das Lágrimas, the ‘House of Tears,’ is associated with a tragic royal love story, a real-life Portuguese Romeo and Juliet.

44 — PORTUGAL HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM STREET: HENRIQUE NDR MARTINS / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES

Cobblestone street in Coimbra HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM PORTUGAL — 45 Porto

orto (also known as Oporto) RESTAURANTS Puro 4050 is the second-largest city Chef Luis Américo gained no- P Porto’s fine-dining scene lacks tice for Cantina 32, his Portu- in Portugal, with a population the kaleidoscope of options guese-style bistro. His newest of around 220,000. Among the you’ll find in Lisbon, but it’s venture, Puro 4050, located a architectural highlights are the catching up — as befits a city few doors down at the foot of cathedral, the gothic Church of with a rising profile among the street, is decidedly Medi- travel trendsetters (whoever St. Francis, the city walls and a terranean. Inspired by a tast- those are) and a deep wine- ing trip to Italy, Américo now number of 15th-century houses. making tradition. The restau- receives regular shipments of Porto’s elegant Beaux Arts core rant at The Yeatman hotel DOC salumi and top-quality owes much of its present appear- remains Porto’s top table, but buffalo mozzarella from Cam- ance to José Marques da Silva, who there are other establishments pania. The chic, narrow space designed the São Bento Railway worth a visit. has a louche, postcolonial air, Station and the Teatro Nacional with rattan pendant lamps, di- rector’s chairs and dark-painted São João. From the 13th century, Pedro Lemos walls lined with framed maps Foz is one of the oldest neigh- wine produced in the Douro Valley and botanical prints. Largo São borhoods of Porto, and up was transported to Porto in barcos Domingos 84. Tel. (351) 222- one of its charmingly narrow rabelos (flat sailing vessels). By the 011-852. streets you’ll find this elegant 18th century, the production of Port restaurant in a restored stone Terreiro wine had passed into the hands of house. Lemos creates menus The picturesque waterfront a few English firms. From Porto’s that combine Portuguese tradi- district around Praça da Ribeira riverside quays, dried fruits, nuts tions with contemporary global is, unsurprisingly, crawling flavors. Opt to dine in the up- and olive oil (as well as Port) were with tourists — and mediocre stairs dining room — handsome restaurants to serve them. This exported around the world. Today, with gray-blue walls studded little find, just set off from the the Serralves Museum of Contem- with black ceramic swallows river, is a happy exception. A porary Art, the art deco Coliseu — and select the three-course compact, bilevel space with do Porto concert hall and Livraria dinner rather than the longer shiplapped walls, a beamed Lello, one of the world’s most tasting menus on offer. With ceiling and a tank crawling amuse-bouches and other beautiful bookshops, are all integral with lobster, Terreiro serves extras, this “abridged” menu homestyle cuisine to a crowd to the city’s cultural life. still ends up comprising a se- of local families. Seafood is the ries of seven dishes. The menu specialty. Start with a dozen changes often but has included freshly shucked oysters and dainty quail tarts, foie gras with continue with tender octopus pear-Madeira sauce, and tuna grilled with olive oil and lemon loin with wasabi pearls. Ingre- and served with small, creamy dients employed are mostly potatoes, hard-boiled eggs and Portuguese, with some of the slices of fennel. Closed Monday. produce grown on a small roof- Largo do Terreiro 11/12. Tel. (351) top terrace. Closed Sunday and 222-011-955. Monday. Rua do Padre Luís Cabral 974. Tel. (351) 220-115-986.

46 — PORTUGAL HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A The Yeatman 93 Located on a hillside above the Port lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia, this stylish 83-room hotel has spectacular views of Porto across the Douro River. The hotel is within walking distance of the lively riverfront and across an ornate ironwork bridge from Porto’s historic center. Spacious rooms, all with private terraces, are individually decorated with art and artifacts from various Portuguese winer- ies. The excellent restaurant features contemporary and wines. On the eighth floor, the Orangerie offers a more casual à la carte dining experience and a large terrace (weather permitting). Amenities include a large spa, a smoking lounge offering cigars and vintage Port by the glass, plus a wine bar, a gym, an indoor pool and a decanter-shaped swimming pool on the sun terrace, which allows access to landscaped gardens. P

Lowest Rate: Executive Room, $430; Editor’s Choice: Suite, $560. Rua do Choupelo (Santa Marinha), 4400-088 Vila Nova de Gaia, Porto. Tel. (351) 220-133-100.

“Portugal’s second city is famed for its well-preserved medieval center, baroque churches and a string of six graceful bridges crossing the Douro River, one designed by the great Gustave Eiffel. Less well-known is that the city is a hub of contemporary architecture.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM PORTUGAL — 47 Douro Valley & Northern Portugal

ollowing the examples of Tuscany and Burgundy, many European wine regions are F attempting to launch themselves as tourist destinations. Now it is the turn of Portugal’s Douro Valley, which runs for 100 miles from Porto to the Spanish border. Best known for making Port, one of the world’s greatest fortified wines, the Douro Valley also produces a variety of excellent table wines. The other surprise in the Douro is the extraordinary beauty of its landscape, which the Portuguese writer Miguel Torga once described as a “geolog- RTE: JEAN-FRANCOIS JAUSSAUD

ical poem.” The river winds between steep hills planted with vineyards and dotted with Ô handsome quintas (wine estates) and villages framed by cypress trees. QUINTA DA C

Douro Valley SIX SENSES DOURO VALLEY: JOHN ATHIMARITIS DOURO VALLEY: LUISPORTUGAL / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES

48 — PORTUGAL HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A Six Senses Douro Valley 95 This striking hotel on a 19-acre vine-planted hillside overlooking a sinuous bend in the Douro combines a traditional 19th-century manor house and contemporary buildings. The 60 recently refur- bished guest rooms contain daybeds, large windows and gray limestone baths. Some of the lodgings feature private pools, terraces with sweeping panoramic views of vineyards, the river or scenic woodlands, and wooden bridges leading to small gardens. The hotel’s formal restaurant serves market-inspired regional cuisine, and the Wine Library & Terrace offers a tapas menu and daily guided wine-and-cheese tastings. The 23,700-square-foot

RTE: JEAN-FRANCOIS JAUSSAUD spa has a huge indoor pool, yoga pavilion and gym. Other facili- Ô ties include an outdoor pool and a well-stocked library. Culinary classes, guided hikes and pottery workshops can be arranged. P

Lowest Rate: Quinta Superior Room, $580; Editor’s Choice: Quinta QUINTA DA C River Room, $750. Quinta de Vale Abraão, Samodães, 5100-758 Lamego. Tel. (351) 254-660-600.

A Quinta da Côrte 92 This 60-acre family-owned estate comprising a contemporary winery and an eight-room hotel was revamped by interior designer Pierre Yovanovitch. A charming 19th-century farmhouse houses four guest accommodations, several tastefully decorated lounge areas and a simple dining room with an enormous tiled hearth and a long azulejo-topped table where delicious, unfussy meals are served. Rooms, while not especially large, are homey, with wood floors, honey-toned walls, woven rugs and shuttered windows that look out over the estate’s vineyards and olive trees. Four additional accommodations are in a separate annex. The hotel has SIX SENSES DOURO VALLEY: JOHN ATHIMARITIS a beautiful infinity pool but lacks televisions, a spa and a gym, and though there is Wi-Fi, the connection is spotty. For those willing to forgo these amenities in exchange for an atmosphere of gracious tranquility and exclusivity, there are few equals.

Lowest Rate: Room, $230; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe Room, $270. 5120-491 Valença do Douro. Tel. (351) 964-536-200.

RECOMMENDED GRAND HOTELS AND LARGER RESORTS

A Vidago Palace 94 This grand four-story palace was built for the king of Portugal but repurposed as a hotel when the country became a republic in 1910. Set on a wooded and landscaped 250-acre estate about 85 minutes north of Porto, the charming hotel has 70 rooms and suites that overlook lovely gardens and feature a timeless décor. The well-run thermal spa is perhaps the best in Portugal. There are also two swimming pools, a gym, an 18-hole golf course, a golf academy with programs for children, a wine cellar for drinks and tapas, and a fine restaurant

DOURO VALLEY: LUISPORTUGAL / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES serving updated Portuguese dishes in one of the most beautiful dining rooms in Europe. Lowest Rate: Classic Room, $250; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $500. Parque de Vidago, Apartado 16, 5425-307 Vidago. Tel. (351) 276-990-920. P

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM PORTUGAL — 49 The Alentejo

he Alentejo lies less than three RESTAURANTS Restaurante Afonso hours east of Lisbon. Vast Located in the attractive little T L’AND village of Mora, this simple windswept plains are dotted by Even if you’re not staying at restaurant is a fine place to dis- bright whitewashed farmhouses the dramatically modern L’AND cover the hearty country cook- and stands of olive and cork trees. Vineyards hotel in the country- ing of the Alentejo. It opened in Visitors come to see the spectacular side near Évora, its excellent 1954 and specializes in dishes restaurant is open to the pub- fortress villages notable for their such as partridge cooked with lic for lunch and dinner from rice, grilled local pork with ancient architecture and colorful Wednesday to Sunday. Chef garlic sauce, and the delicious markets. Several of Portugal’s José Miguel Tapadejo was little almond cookies known better pousadas — intimate inns born and raised in the Alentejo as queijinho do céu de Mora. region, and his cooking is re- housed within historic landmark Closed Wednesday. Rua de Pavia fined, original and beautifully structures — are to be found in this 1, Mora. Tel. (351) 266-403-166. presented. Tapadejo is espe- dramatic region. Évora, a UNESCO cially talented at inventing World Heritage site, is the unoffi- modern takes on traditional EDITOR TIPS cial capital of the Alentejo. The Portuguese dishes, such as engaging walled town is filled with wild bass with summer veg- Alentejo’s Winemaking Tradition an impressive array of structures, etables, and chorizo with an oyster vichyssoise. Herdade Winemaking in the Alentejo some dating to Roman times. das Valadas, Estrada Nacional 4, region predates the Roman Renaissance palaces and medieval Apartado 122, Montemor-o-Novo. Empire and is now in the mansions line the narrow streets Tel. (351) 266-242-400. midst of a major renais- that radiate from a vibrant market sance. The wines are dis- Restaurante 1/4 Prás 9 tinctive because they are square known as the Praça do Hidden on a side street in Évora, made from local grape Giraldo. this pleasant, old-fashioned varieties — Touriga Nacio- establishment owned by chef nal, Aragonez, Alicante VERONICA BOGAERTS / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES Daniel Leal and his daughter Bouschet, Trincadeira serves excellent and very rea- and Periquita for reds sonably priced Portuguese and Antão Vaz, Arinto and . Start with some Roupeiro for whites — that melon and Chaves ham or the give them real character. traditional Alentejo bread soup, The best place to arrange then try the arroz de tamboril a wine tour is at the office (rice with monkfish) or pork of the Rota dos Vinhos do stewed with clams, before Alentejo (Alentejo Wine or homemade cake Route) in Évora. Among for dessert. During hunting recommended estates are season, opt for the fried rabbit Esporão; Quinta do Carmo accompanied by potato mi- near Estremoz, owned by gas. The wine list is small but Bacalhôa Vinhos de Por- well-chosen. Closed Tuesday tugal; and Adega Mayor. dinner and Wednesday. Rua Pedro Simões 9-A, Évora. Tel. (351) 266-706-774.

50 — PORTUGAL HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM VERONICA BOGAERTS / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COMCork trees in the Alentejo PORTUGAL — 51 A São Lourenço do Barrocal 96 Located about a two-hour drive east of Lisbon, near the Spanish border, this fine countryside hotel is set within what was once a self-sustaining, family-owned farming village that produced its own olive oil, wine and grains. José António Uva, a member of the family’s eighth generation, has worked alongside Portuguese architect Eduardo Souto de Moura, winemaker Susana Esteban and Austrian wellness expert Susanne Kaufmann to create this hotel and spa and revive the estate’s olive groves and vineyards. A whitewashed main building and a number of historic buildings encompass 24 bedrooms and 16 separate cottages with , plus a spa, a restaurant and stables. The 1,900-acre property offers beautiful hiking and horseback riding trails, and tasting sessions in the on-site winery can be arranged. This hotel is a

world unto itself and offers a profound sense of place. CARDOSO FABRICE/HOMEM NOVA: MALHADINHA DA HERDADE

Lowest Rate: Courtyard Room, $500; Editor’s Choice: Farm Room, $520. 7200-177 Monsaraz. Tel. (351) 266-247-140.

A L’AND Vineyards 95 In the countryside about 90 minutes south of Lisbon, this modern 26-suite resort comprises a striking white main building and several independent villas set in vineyards around a swimming pool. Spectacular Sky View Suites feature retractable roofs over the bed for viewing the night sky, plunge pools in solarium atriums and terraces with gas fireplaces. The restaurant features organic

regionally sourced ingredients and outdoor dining on a sheltered GUERRA FERNANDO VINEYARDS: L’AND

terrace affording fine views over the surrounding countryside. The property also has a Caudalie vinotherapy spa, a large indoor pool, a library and a lobby-lounge. Activities include tasting sessions at the on-site winery, yoga classes and hot air ballooning. This property is popular with Lisboans as a weekend getaway.

Lowest Rate: L’AND View Suite, $260; Editor’s Choice: Sky View Suite, $350. Herdade das Valadas, Estrada Nacional 4, Apartado 122, 7050-031 Montemor-o-Novo. Tel. (351) 266-242-400.

“The rising profile of easy-drinking Alentejan reds is drawing an increasing number of wine-loving visitors. That has led to the establishment of some fine countryside hotels. SÃO LOURENÇO DO BARROCAL & SUBLIME COMPORTA: NELSON GARRIDO NELSON COMPORTA: SUBLIME & BARROCAL DO LOURENÇO SÃO

52 — PORTUGAL HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 93 Located on a 450-acre estate of rolling hills, oaks and vineyards near the pretty town of Beja, this family-run country house hotel comprises 10 lodgings in a low-slung white-stucco farm building, with heated terra-cotta floors and traditional reed- and wood-lined ceilings. This is not a luxury hotel, but rather a delightful inn with friendly service and beautifully decorated public spaces. Guest suites open directly onto a veranda that runs the full length of the house and overlooks an infinity swimming pool surrounded by lush green lawns and olive trees. There is also a comfortable, flower-filled lounge furnished with low tables heaped with art books; a stylish spa; and a restaurant located at the estate’s winery serving contemporary Portuguese cuisine. Theme weeks dedicated to painting, gastronomy, wine, horseback riding and

HERDADE DA MALHADINHA NOVA: FABRICE/HOMEM CARDOSO FABRICE/HOMEM NOVA: MALHADINHA DA HERDADE photography are regularly organized.

Lowest Rate: Double Room, $340; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $400. 7800-601 Albernôa. Tel. (351) 284-965-432.

A Sublime Comporta 90 Set within a 42-acre complex, this resort with 23 guest lodgings as well as privately owned villas features a distinctive architec- ture that references local traditions and magnificent grounds with mature umbrella pines and cork oaks. While rooms are chic and understated, some can be compact with cramped baths or have open terraces that lack privacy. Consider booking one of

L’AND VINEYARDS: FERNANDO GUERRA FERNANDO VINEYARDS: L’AND the two-bedroom villas, which come with private pools and full

kitchens. Sem Porta serves delicious, regionally sourced and locally inspired dishes in an inviting glass-walled dining room. Other amenities include a casual tapas bar open from June to Septem- ber, a swimming pool, a tennis court and a spa. The surrounding beaches here are the highlight, but the hotel can also arrange horseback riding, wine tasting, golf and boating excursions.

Lowest Rate: Friends Room, $310; Editor’s Choice: Owner’s Suite, $500 (minimum stay may apply). EN 261-1, CCI 3954, Muda, 7570- 337 Grândola. Tel. (351) 269-449-376.

RECOMMENDED GRAND HOTELS AND LARGER RESORTS

A Convento do Espinheiro 94 In a landmark 15th-century monastery, this 90-room hotel is a few miles outside the ancient UNESCO-listed town of Évora. Heritage rooms, in the old monastery and near the gorgeous azulejo-tiled chapel, possess an aura of authenticity not present in newer rooms located in a wing upstairs from the spa. The excellent restaurant, Restaurante Divinus, serves Mediterranean cuisine. Other dining and drinking options include a wine-cellar bar, an Italian restaurant, an intimate bar and a courtyard for seasonal fare. There is also a huge outdoor swimming pool, indoor pool, gym, tennis court and spa menu designed around the use of olive oil. Lowest Rate: Deluxe SÃO LOURENÇO DO BARROCAL & SUBLIME COMPORTA: NELSON GARRIDO NELSON COMPORTA: SUBLIME & BARROCAL DO LOURENÇO SÃO Room, $210; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe Suite, $400. Convento do Espinheiro, 7002-502 Évora. Tel. (351) 266-788-200. P

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM PORTUGAL — 53 The Algarve

he Algarve — from the Arabic RESTAURANTS EDITOR TIPS “Al-Gharb,” meaning “The T Stop for a wonderful lunch in West” — is the southernmost region Olhão, a fishing port that is just Silves Day Trip of Portugal, with a coastline that starting to see itself as a resort A favorite day trip is the stretches for around 100 miles town. Across the street from picturesque hill town of Silves, former capital of the from the Spanish border to Cape the handsome old waterfront market, a row of fish restau- Algarve. It is one of those St. Vincent. The mild year-round rants display their wares on quiet, dreamy places where climate and beaches of golden sand trays of crushed ice. Sagres, time seems to have stood attract Northern Europeans but are at the westernmost point of still, and on one sunny unlikely to be of particular interest the Algarve, is also a charming morning, we had the little town almost to ourselves to Americans. The coastal golf destination for lunch. as we inspected its still-for- courses, however, are excellent. O Bote midable red ramparts and Inland, the Algarve is hilly, This popular seafood restau- the spectacular castle that with picturesque white villages rant just across the street from finally fell to the Portu- surrounded by forests of cork trees. the main market in Olhão offers guese in 1249. The region is famous for its distinc- huge portions of freshly caught shellfish and fish and also has Peaceful Paradise in tive cuisine, which is centered Cacela Velha a pleasant sidewalk terrace for Cacela Velha, a tiny sea- on seafood, especially sardines. outdoor dining. Try the grilled side village with a ruined The drive north from the Algarve octopus, monkfish skewers and 18th-century fort perched through the Alentejo to Lisbon is grilled squid. The service can be on a cliff overlooking an scenically dramatic and culturally slow, but it is an excellent value azure lagoon, faces a bar- for the money. Closed Sunday. fascinating. rier island of white sand. Avenida 5 de Outubro 122, Olhão. We packed towels, a beach Tel. (351) 289-142-102.

blanket, an umbrella and POIKE / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES Restaurante Raposo plenty of water and found Overlooking the Praia da Ma- a boatman to row us across reta beach in Sagres, this sim- the lagoon. On the island, ple seafood restaurant has fine the only thing that broke the views of the sea and is as good Robinson Crusoe fantasy for lunch — maybe a salad — as was a bamboo-and-drift- it is for dinner, when you can wood café that served us a order dishes such as sautéed lunch of grilled lobster and squid, grilled sardines or grilled chilled white wine. lobster. Praia da Mareta, Sagres. Tel. (351) 913-344-421.

54 — PORTUGAL HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A Fazenda Nova Country House 92 Set amid 25 acres of almond, pomegranate and olive trees, this stylish and welcoming 15-room hotel in a 19th-century farmhouse is tucked away outside the coastal town of Tavira. The predominantly rustic-chic décor in the rooms and public spaces is complemented by some more-contemporary furnishings. Avoid apartments in favor of a Terrace Suite, with a large patio and a stairway leading to the hotel’s landscaped garden and an infinity saltwater pool. The restaurant serves light meals during the day and an excellent buffet supper that features produce from the property’s own orchard and vegetable garden. There is also a small bar, a library with more than 1,500 vinyl records and a rooftop terrace. Children under the age of 14 are not permitted. P

Lowest Rate: Loft Suite, $260; Editor’s Choice: Terrace Suite, $285 (minimum stay may apply). Estiramantens, Santo Estêvão, 8800-504 Tavira. Tel. (351) 281-961-913.

A Vila Joya 92 This gracious palazzo with 22 guest accommodations (eight suites) is set in beautifully landscaped gardens overlooking the sea just outside the city of Albufeira. Originally a private villa, the hotel has been remodeled through the years to encompass additional rooms, a small oval outdoor swimming pool surrounded by manicured lawns and trees, and a sophisticated spa with an ocean-facing fitness room, a sauna, an outdoor Jacuzzi and a POIKE / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES steam room. A Michelin two-star restaurant (where a table must be booked months in advance) is overseen by Austrian chef Dieter Koschina. Fancifully furnished Deluxe Terrace Rooms provide spacious living areas and private seaview balconies with daybeds from which to enjoy the sunset. There are also golf courses and José Ferreira’s golf academy nearby.

Lowest Rate: Small Double Room, $500; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe Terrace Room, $880. Estrada da Galé, 8200-416 Albufeira. Tel. (351) 289-591-795.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM PORTUGAL — 55 Slovenia

his Massachusetts-size nation of 2 million people has a WHEN TO GO T beguiling storybook beauty. It also offers superb food and wine; charming, reasonably priced hotels; and a delightful Cooler, rainy weather typi- capital city, diminutive Ljubljana. Hemmed in by Italy, Croatia, cally runs from Novem- ber-April. The Julian Alps Austria and Hungary, Slovenia provides a perfect trip extension, see significant winter with Venice being an ideal jumping-off point. Fortunately, snowfall. Summers are Slovenia more or less avoided the chaos that followed the collapse warm and reliably sunny. of Yugoslavia in 1991, and less than three decades later, it is part of the European Union. Despite many of the trappings of modernity, in Slovenia you can still experience a prewar Europe, where farmers cut hay with scythes, the countryside has yet to

be blighted by suburban development and the food and wines are KANUMAN / ISTOCK/ GETTY IMAGES still made according to traditional methods.

Lake Bled

56 — COUNTRY HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM “From May to September, the transparent Idrijca and Kanomljica trout streams attract fly-fishermen from all over the world. KANUMAN / ISTOCK/ GETTY IMAGES

A Kendov Dvorec 94 Set on a tranquil hillside overlooking a steep valley and river, this pretty 11-room hotel in a 14th-century manor house is located near the lovely village of Spodnja Idrija that dates to 1156. Individually decorated lodgings, named for members of the manor’s founding family, contain 19th-century antiques, a mix of cozy chairs and sofas, period oil paintings, ornate carved beds, oak floors and ample windows. Request one of the guest accommodations with a private terrace. Handmade Idrija lace decorates tablecloths, curtains and bed linens. A handsome dining room with a beamed ceiling serves delicious regional fare employing locally sourced ingredients, plus a good selection of regional wines. Activities include cooking classes, wine-tasting sessions, mountain biking, hiking, horseback riding, hunting, canoeing and fly-fishing.

Lowest Rate: Double Room, $170; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe Room, $240 (meal plan available). Na Gricˇu 2, 5281 Spodnja Idrija. Tel. (386) 5-372-5100.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM SLOVENIA — 57 Croatia

ntil relatively recently, the WHEN TO GO absence of charming and U After a chilly and rainy winter, comfortable places to stay meant spring comes to Croatia at the that the only agreeable way to visit beginning of May. Summer is the Dalmatian coast was by boat. hot and sunny. White and green mountains rear TIME dramatically above the Adriatic, an expanse of cobalt blue bordered by Six hours ahead of New York aromatic shrubs and dotted with (EST). more than 1,000 islands. Here you CURRENCY can rediscover the Mediterranean world of 50 years ago. Many visitors Croatian Kuna (HRK). Fluctu- will still wish to spend time afloat, ating rate valued at HRK6.67 = US$1.00 as of February but a new crop of luxury hotels 2020. Note: Most of our rec- provides a fine choice of pre- or ommended hotels quote rates post-cruise options. A spell on in euros (€). Fluctuating rate land also makes it easy to take valued at €1.00 = US$1.12 as escorted tours to places such as the of February 2020. exquisite medieval town of Mostar U.S. EMBASSY in Bosnia. An ideal itinerary would contain a mixture of sightseeing Zagreb, Tel. (385) 1-661-2200. and pure relaxation. Split and ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Dubrovnik merit at least two days

each of exploration. Afterward, Passport (valid for three months ARTUR BOGACKI / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES an excursion to the lovely island beyond end of stay). Visit travel of Hvar (reached from Split) and/ .state.gov and, for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov. or exquisite Korčula is virtually mandatory.

Dubrovnik

58 — CROATIA ARTUR BOGACKI / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES

Dubrovnik

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM COUNTRY — 59 A Villa Dubrovnik 95 Facing the forested island of Lokrum and the walled Old City, this glamorous 55-room hotel, a 20-minute walk from the Ploče Gate, has some of the finest views of any property in Dubrovnik, combined with a Riviera sensibility. Typical Standard Suites have small private gardens, spacious living rooms with hot tubs and floor-to-ceiling windows facing furnished terraces with views of a rocky cove and the old center of Dubrovnik beyond. Common areas include a stylish white bar-lounge and a commendable Italian-Croatian restaurant, both with splendid terraces. Other amenities include a long indoor pool, a contemporary spa and a “beach” by the sea (in fact a series of white cement polygons set among rugged boulders, furnished with loungers). This is unquestionably Dubrovnik’s finest hotel. P

Lowest Rate: Superior Room, $550; Editor’s Choice: Executive Room, $640. Vlaha Bukovca 6, 20000 Dubrovnik. Tel. (385) 20-500-300.

A Lešic´ Dimitri Palace 94 This hideaway in the center of the old Venetian city of Korčula is centered on an 18th-century bishop’s palace and a number of nearby townhouses. Five suites each have a different décor inspired DIMITRI PALACE: HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY PALACE: DIMITRI

by the travels of Korčula native Marco Polo. The airy Arabia, on Ć the top floor (no elevator), has windows in all four walls with views LEŠI of the Pelješac channel and red city roofs. Its open-plan layout is unorthodox: Elements of the bath mix with the rest of the furnish- ings. Other good choices include two-bedroom China, with its panoramic roof terrace, and Venice, a three-bedroom residence on the piano nobile. A superlative restaurant with a seaview patio offers an extensive list of local wines, and a plush spa has wood- beamed lounges and treatment rooms. Friendly staff can book tasting appointments at some of the excellent wineries nearby.

Lowest Rate: Ceylon, $550; Editor’s Choice: China, $1,450. Don Pavla Poše 1-6, 20260 Korčula. Tel. (385) 20-715-560.

“The most glamorous way to explore Croatia’s coastline continues to be by yacht, but for those who prefer staying in hotels, it is now possible to construct a memorable itinerary between Split and Dubrovnik.

60 — CROATIA HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A Hotel Vestibul Palace 90 In a peerlessly central location accessed through an ancient subter- ranean tunnel leading away from the seaside Riva, this modern boutique hotel with seven guest accommodations is integrated into the walls of a 1,700-year-old Roman palace. Book a suite, as rooms are small. Some suites incorporate parts of the original palace’s stone and brick walls, as well as modern design accents, oak floors, armchair or sofa sets, and handcrafted furniture. An intimate restaurant offers good Mediterranean food with Croatian influences from a short menu and a wine list comprising many regional favorites. There is also a beautiful glass atrium lobby, a bar-lounge and a sunny patio. The charming staff can arrange sightseeing tours, cultural excursions and boating trips. Note that the hotel lacks an elevator.

Lowest Rate: Standard Double Room, $310; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $750. Iza Vestibula 4, 21000 Split. Tel. (385) 21-329-329.

A St. Joseph’s 90 This stylish six-room family-owned boutique hotel in a restored 16th-century townhouse is located on a side street in the heart of Dubrovnik’s walled center. French-inflected junior suite-like DIMITRI PALACE: HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY PALACE: DIMITRI

Ć Deluxe King Suites have wood-beamed ceilings painted a crisp white; exposed original-stone walls; muted color palettes of gray, LEŠI beige, white and black; and kitchenettes. Though the hotel does not have public spaces, elevators or a restaurant, the staff and management are friendly and helpful. Delicious room-service with coffee, green smoothies, local pastries and savory items such as scrambled eggs with smoked salmon come each morning at the time of your choice. The nearby Pucić Palace has more amenities, but St. Joseph’s is more friendly and more chic.

Lowest Rate: Deluxe Queen Suite, $540; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe King Suite, $650. Sv. Josipa 3, 20000 Dubrovnik. Tel. (385) 20-432-089.

RECOMMENDED GRAND HOTELS AND LARGER RESORTS

A Esplanade Zagreb 91 Once a stopping point for travelers on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, this grand 208-room hotel built in 1925 is conveniently located within a 15-minute walk of Strossmayer Square, the Botanical Garden and the city’s main shopping area. Spacious guest accommodations provide art deco furniture and baths with heated floors. The elegant Zinfandel’s restaurant serves contemporary Croatian specialties and traditional Mediterranean cuisine, and the atmospheric Esplanade 1925 Lounge & Cocktail Bar is ideal for afternoon tea and evening cocktails. Amenities include a health club, a beauty salon and spa treatment rooms. Lowest Rate: Superior Room, $220; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe Suite, $320. Mihanoviceva 1, 10000 Zagreb. Tel. (385) 14-566-666.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM CROATIA — 61 Montenegro

ontenegro is a tiny Balkan state with just 650,000 WHEN TO GO M inhabitants, jostled by Albania, Bosnia, Croatia, Serbia and Kosovo. It is justly renowned for its mountain scenery After a chilly and rainy and pristine Adriatic coastline. Cultural and architectural winter, spring comes to Montenegro at the begin- highlights include the walled Venetian city of Kotor (a UNESCO ning of May. The Adriatic World Heritage site) and Perast, a striking village overlooking Sea is warm enough for the fjord-like Bay of Kotor, memorably described by the poet swimming by mid-June. Byron as “the most beautiful contact between earth and Summers are hot and sea.” Montenegro has two international airports, at Tivat and sunny. Podgorica. For anyone planning a vacation to Croatia, a side trip to Montenegro is a must.

A Aman Sveti Stefan 96 This unique resort encompasses the islet of Sveti Stefan, a onetime fortified fishing village dating to the 15th century, and the adjacent eight-suite Villa Miločer on the mainland, once the summer residence of Yugoslav royalty. (The two are connected by a narrow causeway.) The Sveti Stefan islet, closed from the end of October to May, comprises 50 guest accommodations,

many with Juliet balconies, which feature grand views of the sea AMAN OF COURTESY or quaint courtyards and piazzas. No two are alike. Suites in the villa blend old European grandeur with contemporary comfort and style, incorporating parquet floors and living rooms with central fireplaces. Numerous dining venues on the mainland include Arva for organic pan-Adriatic, Italian-inflected cuisine. Other amenities include a clifftop pool, an impressive spa, a gym, a Pilates studio and a yoga pavilion, plus pink-pebbled beaches.

Lowest Rate: Islet Village Room, $980; Editor’s Choice: Milocer Sea View Suite, $1,470. Sveti Stefan 85315. Tel. (382) 33-420-000.

“The unspoiled coastline of Montenegro is one of the most beguilingly beautiful in the world.

62 — MONTENEGRO HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM COURTESY OF AMAN HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM “ T Malta as the tinyas island of Malta. Few places supersaturated as are with history world. the in harbors beautiful and dramatic most one of the possesses colored stone. Malta’s Valletta, capital, island’s the from honey- constructed fortifications immense and churches of fascinating a wealth Today’s find traveler will raids. bombing 3,000 than more suffered two-yearepic siege and an World endured 1974. War Malta in II, During independence until who remained British, out by the driven subsequently forces were 1798, but his in route en to Egypt Malta captured Napoleon of Jerusalem; John of St. Knights togiven the was A.D. island 1530, 60.in the In on Malta shipwrecked famously was St. Paul location. strategic to its chiefly owing of history,

and arid speck of land has seen a disproportionate amount amount a disproportionate seen has of land speck arid and isolated long, but this miles 15 just is of Malta island main he

atop Mdina’s bastions, chef Kevin Bonello serves delicious “Modern “Modern delicious serves Bonello Kevin chef bastions, Mdina’s atop restaurant, Mondion De acclaimed the At views. countryside with guest accommodations come with private terraces and Jacuzzis the of Four artists. local by paintings original and fabrics luxurious rooms and suites are individually with decorated antique furniture, 17 hotel’s The 1999. in hotel boutique atmospheric and a grand into converted was Mdina of city walled historic the of bastions the medieval late-17th-centurythis incorporating palace restored family, Parisio Moscati noble the for aresidence as built Originally The XaraPalace Tel. 21-450-560. (356) Suite with Panoramic View, $320. Misrah il-Kunsill, 1050 Mdina. Deluxe Choice: Editor’s $250; Room, Duplex Standard Rate: Lowest treatments. spa in-room and restaurant hotel’s the in events wine-tasting island, the of tours walking private for arrange can concierge The tea. afternoon elegant an offers 1530 AD Trattoria casual the courtyard, palace’s the In cuisine. Mediterranean”

92 A pleasant temperature for temperature pleasant a to warmed has ranean Mediter the and settled, is weather The avisit: for time ideal the is May-June GO TO WHEN Europe. of visitors from northern hordes receives island the and hot, excessively be can swimming. July-August MALTA

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— 63 Greece

he pleasures of Greece are WHEN TO GO simple but intense: diving T May-June is an ideal time for a from a yacht into water so clear visit: The weather is settled, and that you glimpse pebbles on the the Mediterranean has warmed sea floor 50 feet below; turning to a pleasant temperature for over a fragment of white marble swimming. August can be excessively hot, and the strong to find marks left by a chisel 2,500 Meltemi wind is tiresome, as years ago; sitting in the shade of well as potentially dangerous a quayside awning to eat lightly for those at sea. Overtouristed grilled fish served with lemon, oil Santorini is now best visited in and fresh oregano; and watching shoulder season. the sun descend into the Aegean, TIME with a glass of chilled white wine from Santorini and a dish of olives Seven hours ahead of New from Kalamata. Ultimately, though, York (EST). it is the intensity of the light that CURRENCY is incomparable. Greek sunlight endows the landscape with an Euro(€). Fluctuating rate valued atmosphere of numinous signifi- at €1.00=US$1.12 as of Febru- ary 2020. cance. Colors are supersaturated,

and nowhere else in the world U.S. EMBASSY

are the sea and the sky quite so ALEXANDRUMAGUREAN / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES Athens, Tel. (30) 210-721-2951. flawlessly and fathomlessly blue. Consulate: Thessaloniki, Tel. (30) 231-024-2905(6,7)

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay). Visit travel .state.gov and, for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.

64 — GREECE ALEXANDRUMAGUREAN / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES

Cave on Xigia Beach, Zakynthos HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM GREECE — 65 Athens

thens is not always an easy RESTAURANTS and a shellfish-and-prawn ri- city to love, especially in the sotto cooked in a light lem- A Athir on-and-langoustine broth. For summer, when it is often crowded, Chef Alexandros Kardasis pre- dessert, try the chef’s take on smoggy and infernally hot. But in sides over this deservedly the French mille-feuille com- spring and fall, the place has many popular restaurant in a reno- posed of caramelized crunchy charms. Kolonaki is the Greek vated neoclassical house with phyllo layers, , walnuts a leafy garden in the Keram- capital’s most fashionable residen- and thyme honey; or the home- eikos neighborhood. His menu made bougatsa, a traditional tial, restaurant and shopping changes regularly, but don’t Greek pie served with district (Voukourestiou Street is miss the cod doughnut with crispy phyllo and cinnamon known for its jewelry). Nearby is a a light sweet potato . Voukourestiou 47. Tel. remarkable small private museum, (potato and garlic spread); tra- (30) 210-360-8621. the Museum of Cycladic Art. Aside ditional green Papouda beans and Iberico pork belly cooked Varoulko Seaside from the Acropolis, Athens is with smoked paprika and pork Many Athenians consider chef- home to the National Archaeolog- sausage; and the grilled drum owner Lefteris Lazarou’s es- ical Museum, holding the world’s fish with kale, carrots and dill tablishment, with its pleasant largest collection of Greek antiqui- oil. Also consider a rich vege- waterfront location in the port ties. table and lemon stew stocked city of Piraeus, to be the best with yellow split peas and slow- seafood restaurant in the city. cooked , or the veal The catch of the day varies, of liver accompanied by a green course, as does the menu, but apple purée and fig sauce. look for dishes such as a cut- Closed Monday. Plataion 15. Tel. tlefish-ink soup stocked with (30) 210-346-2983. crabmeat, asparagus and leek; fresh crayfish tartare in a light Papadakis basil, yuzu, ginger and grape- Located on the slope of Mount fruit sauce; grilled cuttlefish SILVERJOHN / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES Lycabettus in the Kolonaki with smoked-herring cream neighborhood, this excellent and wine leaves stuffed with seafood restaurant has fine cuttlefish risotto; or the daily views of the Acropolis and fish, usually grouper, sea bream serves one of the best catch- or John Dory, served with a of-the-day menus in the city. Jerusalem artichoke mousse, Follow one of the outstand- mustard pickle and cocoa pep- ing starters such as the sau- per. Be forewarned that the téed prawns with chile and fish here is sold according to cheese, or the octopus weight, so it is usually wise to stew with sun-dried toma- ask the price when ordering to toes, thyme-infused honey avoid an unpleasant surprise. and homemade potato chips. Akti Koumoundourou 52, Mikro- Regularly changing mains have limano, Piraeus. Tel. (30) 210- included a grilled grouper fillet 522-8400. with summer truffles, pota- toes and Santorini wine sauce;

66 — GREECE HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM EDITOR TIPS

Mount Lycabettus From Kolonaki, a funicular rises to the 900-foot sum- mit of Mount Lycabettus — there is also a footpath for those in need of exercise — from where a glorious pan- orama includes the Parthe- non and the glinting waters of the Mediterranean.

Day Trips From Athens Delphi, home of the famous oracle, is a classical site sur- rounded by mountains two hours northwest of the city. The best-preserved classi- cal Greek theater is located at Epidaurus, two hours to the southwest. But perhaps our favorite excursion is to go for lunch on the island of Hydra, which has one of the loveliest harbors in the Med- iterranean. The hydrofoil from Piraeus takes about

SILVERJOHN / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES an hour, but we prefer to sit on the top deck of a ferry for the three-hour trip across the dark-blue Saronic Gulf. Parthenon and Herodium on the Acropolis

RECOMMENDED GRAND HOTELS AND LARGER RESORTS

A Hotel Grande Bretagne 92 This renowned Old World hotel is ideally located on Constitution (Syntagma) Square. The 320 elegant accommo- dations, some with private balconies, have courtyard or city views and feature rich fabrics, antiques and optional butler service. Expect a full range of stylish bars and dining venues, including a panoramic rooftop restaurant. The Winter Garden is an excellent option for a light lunch or high tea. There is also a seasonal poolside bar and grill. Amenities include an impressive spa with an indoor swimming pool, a fitness studio and an outdoor pool open from May through October with views of Mount Lycabettus. Lowest Rate: Classic Room, $460; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe Suite, $890. 1 Vasileos Georgiou A’ Str., Syntagma Square, 105 64 Athens. Tel. (30) 210-333-0000. P

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM GREECE — 67 The Peloponnese

he Peloponnese constitutes the southernmost part of T mainland Greece. Its interior is mountainous and unspoiled; EDITOR TIPS its coast is ribboned with beaches. Separated from the rest Classical Mycenae of the country by the Corinth Canal, this is a land of small The town of Nafplio lies villages where you will still find traditional Greek hospitality in two hours southwest of areas that have not been overrun by tourists. Some of Greece’s Athens. Occupied by the Venetians from 1388 to most important archaeological sites are scattered throughout 1540, it still has an array the peninsula and include the palaces of Mycenaean kings of Venetian and neoclassi- and temples such as those at Corinth and Olympia. The Costa cal buildings. Nafplio is an Navarino offers fine new golf courses. excellent base from which to explore the classical site of Mycenae, including Agamemnon’s Palace and Epidaurus the extraordinary Treasury of Atreus.

The Ancient Theater of Epidaurus Also within easy reach of Nafplio, Epidaurus is home to a magnificent theater built in the 4th century B.C. to accommo- date 14,000 spectators. The best preserved of all the ancient theaters in the GEORGIOS TSICHLIS / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES Greek world, it still hosts a summer festival of classi- cal drama and music.

The Unspoiled Coastline of Porto Heli Two-plus hours by car southwest of the Athens COURTESY OF AMAN OF COURTESY airport, Porto Heli is a pretty yachting town that increasingly resembles a Greek version of Saint-Tro- pez. The region has re- cently attracted a growing number of the well-heeled, who love its unspoiled coastline and easy access to stylish islands such as Spetses and Hydra.

68 — GREECE HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A Amanzoe 94 Ten minutes by water taxi from the pretty yachting village of Porto Heli, this hilltop complex overlooks olive groves and a cobalt-blue bay backdropped by mountains. The aesthetically flawless 38 pavilion-style lodgings include sitting areas with soaring windows and bedrooms that open onto private patios and plunge pools. Dining options include a fine Mediterranean restaurant, poolside Japanese dinners and intimate meals in a striking amphitheater. Other amenities are highlighted by a gym, a spa with nine treat- ment rooms, a library, tennis courts, a gorgeous infinity pool and a separate kids’ pool. A private full-service Beach Club (open mid-April to November) 10 minutes away by complimentary shuttle offers four pools, a two-room spa, a restaurant and a fleet of boats. The property is closed December through March.

Lowest Rate: Pool Pavilion, $1,120; Editor’s Choice: Pool Pavilion Premium View, $1,400. Agios Panteleimonas, 213 00 Kranidi, Argolida. Tel. (30) 275-477-2888.

“The Olympic flame of the modern-day Olympic Games is lit by the reflection of sunlight in a parabolic mirror in front of the Temple of Hera. GEORGIOS TSICHLIS / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES COURTESY OF AMAN OF COURTESY

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM GREECE — 69 Santorini

antorini is a 12-mile crescent of land, all that remains of a EDITOR TIPS S substantial island blown apart by a cataclysmic eruption more than 3,500 years ago. (The blast probably gave rise to the Superlative Wines enduring legend of Atlantis.) Today, stupendous cliffs rise from Greek wine has made tre- mendous strides in the the sea-filled caldera to blinding whitewashed villages perched past few years. The largest more than 1,000 feet above. The island itself is arid, with dark wine producer on Santo- volcanic soil (which helps produce delicious dry white wines) rini, Boutari, also lays claim and black-sand beaches. Aside from archaeological excavations, to being one of Greece’s its principal attraction is the unforgettable view, both of the leading exporters. We immense caldera and the surrounding islands of the Cyclades. recommend that you take the tour here and spend a Extremely crowded in summer, Santorini is best visited in pleasant interlude tasting. spring and fall. MICHAŁ KRAKOWIAK / E+ / GETTY IMAGES CRISTOS DRAZOSCRISTOS

70 — GREECE HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A The Tsitouras Collection 95 Set atop a breathtaking cliff, this unique mansion hotel is 1,000 feet above the sea. Historian and art collector Dimitris Tsitouras has converted an 18th-century residence into five separate “houses.” Each individually themed accommodation features museum-quality antiques and paintings, along with a dining area and all of the expected amenities. The core of the old structure is the 765-square-foot House of Portraits, while the House of Nureyev is the only suite with a private furnished veranda. Limited lunch and dinner menus emphasize seafood dishes, and several good restaurants are located nearby. Amenities include a lovely freshwater pool with an adjacent café. Additionally, in-room massage treatments are available. The property is closed from November through April.

Lowest Rate: The House of Sea, $390; Editor’s Choice: The House of Nureyev, $540 (airport transfers are included). Firostefani, 84700 Santorini. Tel. (30) 228-602-3747.

“The view of the Santorini caldera may be something of a tourist cliché and omnipresent in travel brochures for Greece,

MICHAŁ KRAKOWIAK / E+ / GETTY IMAGES but it is still breathtaking and one of the most extraordinary sights in the world. CRISTOS DRAZOSCRISTOS

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM GREECE — 71 Crete

his long, narrow island (about 165 miles from west to east) WHEN TO GO T is dominated by a forbidding spine of mountains that rises to 8,000-foot Mount Ida. Much of Crete remains unspoiled; Crete should be avoided parts of the coast, however, have been disfigured by insensitive during the high season, tourist development. Crete was the homeland of the enigmatic when it is excessively hot and overrun by tourists Minoan civilization, which flourished across the eastern from Northern Europe. Mediterranean around 4,000 years ago. The remains of the Minoan palace of Knossos were discovered in the 19th century and badly restored, but they are still worth a visit out of season. The Venetian ports of Chania and Rethymnon are enchanting. World War II buffs may wish to visit the Cretan battlefields, which saw the first full-scale airborne assault by paratroops (the German Fallschirmjäger) in military history. SIMON DANNHAUER / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES DIMITRISPOUPALOS

Beach near Chania

72 — GREECE HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A Elounda Mare 93 This sophisticated resort with 82 accommodations overlooks scenic Mirabello Bay near the busy resort town of Agios Nikolaos. All lodgings are terraced into a landscaped hillside and are deco- rated in a regional style with sea-facing verandas. Additionally, spacious bungalows have separate living areas, sea views and private plunge pools. Eight dining venues emphasize seafood and Mediterranean cuisine. Other public spaces include four lounges, with the Karavia Bar offering aperitifs and stunning views. Aside from a saltwater pool, three tennis courts, a fitness center and a small private beach, the resort provides all of the usual water sports, day cruises and guided island tours, plus access to a Six Senses Spa and a nine-hole par-three golf course at the nearby sister property Porto Elounda. The hotel is closed from mid- October to mid-April.

Lowest Rate: Suite, $320; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe Bungalow, $440. Elounda, 720 53 Crete. Tel. (30) 284-106-8200.

“Once the center of the Minoan civilization, Crete still has culture distinct from the rest of Greece, with its own music and literature. SIMON DANNHAUER / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES DIMITRISPOUPALOS

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM GREECE — 73 Turkey

he eastern Mediterranean is WHEN TO GO one of the most culturally T Turkey is mainly dry, with cold intriguing areas of the world. winters and hot summers. Two thousand years ago, western The weather is more moder- Turkey was home to the Ionian ate around Istanbul, with the Greeks, and some of the most most temperate areas being the western and southern coasts impressive ruins of classical of Anatolia. cities, such as Pergamum and Ephesus, are to be found there. TIME Istanbul, formerly Greek Constan- Eight hours ahead of New York tinople, embodies this historical (EST). complexity. The Turkish capital, Ankara, is a place of relatively little CURRENCY interest aside from the remarkable Most recommended hotels Anatolian Civilizations Museum, quote rates in euros (€). Fluc- with its extraordinary collection tuating rate valued at €1.00 = of Hittite artifacts. Southeast of US$1.12 as of February 2020. PHOTOSENSIA / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES Ankara, Cappadocia presents an U.S. EMBASSY otherworldly landscape of colorful canyons and troglodyte towns. Ankara, Tel. (90) 312- 455-5555. Consulates: Istanbul, Tel. (90) 212-335-9000; and Adana, Tel. (90) 322-455-4100.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay) and visa. Visit travel.state.gov and, for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.

Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, Istanbul 74 — TURKEY PHOTOSENSIA / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES

Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, Istanbul HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM TURKEY — 75 Istanbul

stanbul is the historic threshold RESTAURANTS include yellow-lentil soup with between Europe and Asia. croutons and lemon; baked I Asitane stuffed eggplant and stuffed Turkey’s largest city is a grand, This light, airy restaurant with cabbage rolls; hünkar beğendi chaotic, ancient and modern a beautiful terrace is located (sultan’s delight), a rich lamb next to one of Istanbul’s great conglomeration of paradoxes stew with eggplant purée; but relatively unsung sites: the that blends the features of both and lamb shanks with orzo in a Kariye Müzesi (also known as continents but retains a flavor light tomato sauce. Mim Kemal the Chora Museum), a former Oke Caddesi 21. Tel. (90) 212- uniquely its own. Built between church with some of the finest 225-4665. A.D. 532 and 537, Hagia Sophia Byzantine mosaics in the world. was the largest cathedral in the The kitchen is dedicated to pre- Khorasani world until the completion of the serving the recipes of the Ot- A short walk from the Hagia toman Empire. The traditional Seville Cathedral in 1506. Today, Sophia, this excellent restau- almond soup created of a light it is a museum. Just opposite, the rant is known for its kebabs. almond broth flavored with Secure a streetside table and majestic Blue Mosque mirrors grated and pomegran- begin with a small selection some of the Byzantine elements of ate seeds is a delicate starter. of mezzes. From among the the Hagia Sophia and blends them Save room for the Sembuse, a appealing main courses, con- nutmeg-infused walnut-and- with traditional Islamic design. sider the outstanding grilled almond dessert. Kariye Camii Home to generations of Ottoman lamb ribs served with toma- Sokak 6. Tel. (90) 212-635-7997. sultans, Topkapı Palace contains toes and peppers; the merci- mek köftesi (vegetarian balls an astonishing jewelry collec- Hamdi made of lentils, spring onion With a prime location near the tion. Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar is a and parsley); or imam bayildi bustling Bazaar and a covered labyrinth of thousands wonderful view over the Bos- (deep-fried eggplant stuffed of shops offering everything from phorus, this busy restaurant is with tomatoes, green peppers rugs to rice. a great place to sample some and pine nuts). Divanyolu Cad- of the kebabs that are a clas- desi, Ticarethane Sokak 39/41. Tel. (90) 212-519-5959. The best way to encounter Istanbul sic of the southeastern Turk- ish kitchen. The fistikli kebab for the first time is aboard a Ulus 29 (ground lamb with pistachios) ship sailing up from the Sea of This romantic hillside restau- is especially delicious, as is rant has stunning views of both Marmara, an arrival that gradually the grilled lamb kebab served bridges over the Bosphorus and unfolds one of the most romantic with roasted eggplant, tomato is one of the most stylish (and skylines in the world. and dried mint. Tahmis Caddesi, expensive) in Istanbul. Menu Kalçin Sokak 11. Tel. (90) 212- standouts have included dishes 528-0390. such as grilled octopus with a Hünkar white-bean-and-tomato salad, Located in stylish Nişantaşi, and lamb fillet with smoked this restaurant specializes in eggplant. The restaurant also Ottoman cooking and recalls offers one of the best lists of the days when the empire Turkish wines in the city. Ad- spread from the Caspian Sea to nan Saygun Caddesi, Ulus Parkı Algiers. Recommended dishes Içi 71/1. Tel. (90) 212-358-2929.

76 — TURKEY HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A Sumahan on the Water 92 Situated in Çengelköy, an area renowned for its fish restaurants, this attractive family-owned hotel is set within a three-story former raki distillery at the water’s edge on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus. The 13 individually decorated rooms and suites, most with fireplaces and marble baths with small Turkish hammams, provide scenic water views, while twin-level loft suites offer private Bosphorus-side gardens. The terraced seaside Waterfront Restaurant serves Turkish and light international cuisine and an excellent breakfast buffet. Hotel amenities include a wellness facility comprising a marble hammam, massage treatment rooms and a fitness center, plus a library stocked with nearly 800 books, mostly in English, on Turkish culture, history, arts and crafts, and cooking. Private boat tours can be arranged.

Lowest Rate: Deluxe Room, $220; Editor’s Choice: Loft Suite, $290. Kuleli Caddesi 43, 34684 Çengelköy, Istanbul. Tel. (90) 216-422-8000.

RECOMMENDED GRAND HOTELS AND LARGER RESORTS

A Four Seasons at the Bosphorus 96 This 19th-century Ottoman palace was converted to contain 170 bright and airy accommodations, a quarter of which have views across the strait to the shoreline of Asia. Rooms include features such as walk-in closets, custom-designed fabrics and mahogany furniture. The principal restaurant overlooks the Bosphorus, as does the seasonal 90-foot swimming pool. A large spa provides 10 treatment rooms, a fitness studio, an indoor swimming pool, a sauna and a hammam. Lowest Rate: Superior Room, $590; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite, $1,680. Çırağan Cad. no. 28, Beşiktaş, 34349 Istanbul. Tel. (90) 212-381-4000. A Pera Palace Hotel 92 Situated in the arty Beyoğlu district, this storied 115-room grande dame hotel was refurbished to preserve period ambiance. Grand public rooms are furnished with Ottoman and European antiques. Stylish suites incorporate sitting rooms and French doors that lead to small balconies overlooking the Golden Horn. Eating establishments include the gourmet Agatha Restaurant and a French pâtisserie and tearoom. Other amenities are highlighted by an outdoor terrace, a gym and a spa. Lowest Rate: Deluxe Pera Side Room, $220; Editor’s Choice: Ernest Hemingway Suite, $400. Mes¸rutiyet Caddesi 52, 34430 Tepebas¸i Beyoğlu, Istanbul. Tel. (90) 212-377-4000.

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM TURKEY — 77 Bodrum

his cosmopolitan seaside resort is composed of bright EDITOR TIPS T whitewashed dwellings tumbling down to a yacht-filled harbor. Boutiques, restaurants, outdoor cafés and a colorful Unique Museum The Castle of St. Peter bazaar all add to the charm of the town. First known as is home to the excellent Halicarnassus, the ancient city was conquered by Alexander the Museum of Underwater Great in 334 B.C. One can still view the extensive ruins of the Archaeology. Among the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus (one of the Seven Wonders of the highlights are the front Ancient World), destroyed by a series of earthquakes between third of a Roman ship that the 12th and 15th centuries. Stones from the mausoleum were has been fully restored; the remains of the world’s used in the construction of the town’s spectacular Crusader oldest known wreck, from castle. Bodrum’s most famous son was Herodotus, “The Father the 14th century B.C.; and of History,” who was born in 484 B.C. Having fallen out with the the cutaway of a cargo ship authorities, he lived abroad for many years, exploring Greece, showing how amphorae Egypt and virtually the entire ancient Middle East, becoming and other cargo were ar- ranged in the holds. one of the world’s first great travelers. NADORE / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES COURTESY OF AMAN

Bodrum Harbor

78 — TURKEY HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM A Amanruya 95 Set in an olive grove above a sheltered bay and a beach on the Aegean coast, this elegant resort with 36 stone-clad cottages is located 20 minutes from Bodrum. Light-filled lodgings feature high ceilings, stone floors, sitting areas with fireplaces and French doors that open onto private garden terraces with daybeds and heated marble pools. Dining pavilions clustered around the 165-foot main pool offer traditional Turkish food and Mediterranean-inspired dishes. An informal Beach Club sits at the sea’s edge, with decks for sunbathing and a selection of nonmotorized water sports. Other amenities include two spa suites, a tennis court, fitness and yoga studios, and a library. Yacht charters and tours by private car can be arranged. This property is a self-contained world of deep tranquility. The resort is closed from November to mid-April.

Lowest Rate: Pool Suite, $930; Editor’s Choice: Pool Pavilion Deluxe Sea View, $1,460. Bülent Ecevit Cad., Demir Mevkii, Göltürkbükü, 48483 Bodrum. Tel. (90) 252-311-1212.

“ For centuries a quiet town of fishermen and sponge divers, Bodrum is now one of the most fashionable yachting centers in the Aegean. NADORE / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES COURTESY OF AMAN

HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM TURKEY — 79 RECOMMENDED HOTEL INDEX

SPAIN LISBON AREA The Albatroz Hotel (93)...... 43 MADRID Tivoli Palácio de Seteais Sintra Hotel (90)...... 43 Hotel Ritz (94)...... 11 The Principal (94)...... 10 COIMBRA URSO Hotel & Spa (94)...... 10 Quinta das Lágrimas (90)...... 44

Gran Hotel Inglés (92) ...... 10 PORTO BASQUE COUNTRY The Yeatman (93)...... 47

Gran Hotel Domine (92)...... 13 DOURO VALLEY & NORTHERN PORTUGAL Hotel Maria Cristina (92)...... 13 Six Senses Douro Valley (95)...... 49 LA RIOJA & RIBERA DEL DUERO Vidago Palace (94)...... 49 Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine (96)...... 15 Quinta da Côrte (92) *...... 49 Discover Serene Retreats in Hotel Marqués de Riscal (92)...... 15 THE ALENTEJO Hotel Viura (92)...... 15 São Lourenço do Barrocal (96) * ...... 52 SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA L’AND Vineyards (95)...... 52 Portugal’s Countryside. Online. A Quinta da Auga (95)...... 17 Convento do Espinheiro (94)...... 53 Parador de Baiona (90)...... 17 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova (93)...... 53 Parador de Santiago de Compostela (90)...... 17 Sublime Comporta (90) *...... 53 BARCELONA THE ALGARVE Visit HideawayReport.com/Go/Portugal Mandarin Oriental (95)...... 21 Fazenda Nova Country House (92)...... 55 Majestic Hotel & Spa (94)...... 21 Vila Joya (92)...... 55 Mercer Hotel (94)...... 20 The Serras (94)...... 20 SLOVENIA Gran Hotel La Florida (90) ...... 20 Kendov Dvorec (94)...... 57

CATALONIA CROATIA Mas de Torrent (95) ...... 23 Torre del Remei (92) ...... 23 Villa Dubrovnik (95)...... 60 Lešić Dimitri Palace (94)...... 60 SALAMANCA Esplanade Zagreb (91)...... 61 Hotel Rector (92) ...... 24 Hotel Vestibul Palace (90)...... 61 MALLORCA St. Joseph’s (90) ...... 61 Belmond La Residencia (95) ...... 27 Gran Hotel Son Net (94) ...... 27 MONTENEGRO Son Brull (92)...... 27 Aman Sveti Stefan (96)...... 62

MENORCA MALTA Torralbenc (93) * ...... 29 The Xara Palace (92)...... 63 Cugó Gran Menorca (92) *...... 29 Fontenille Menorca Santa Ponsa (91) ...... 29 * GREECE VALENCIA ATHENS Hospes Palau de la Mar (90) ...... 31 Hotel Grande Bretagne (92)...... 67 ANDALUSIA THE PELOPONNESE Hacienda de San Rafael (95) ...... 33 Amanzoe (94)...... 69 Finca Cortesin Hotel (94)...... 35 Hotel Alfonso XIII (94) ...... 35 SANTORINI Hospes Palacio del Bailío (93)...... 33 The Tsitouras Collection (95)...... 71 La Bobadilla (92)...... 35 CRETE Hotel La Fuente de la Higuera (92)...... 33 Elounda Mare (93)...... 73 Corral del Rey (91)...... 34 Hospes Las Casas del Rey de Baeza (91)...... 34 TURKEY Hospes Palacio de los Patos (91)...... 34 Quinta da Côrte, ISTANBUL Parador de Granada (91)...... 35 Douro Valley Four Seasons at the Bosphorus (96)...... 77 PORTUGAL Pera Palace Hotel (92)...... 77 Sumahan on the Water (92)...... 77 LISBON BODRUM NEXT HIDEAWAY GUIDES — APRIL 2020 Olissippo Lapa Palace (94)...... 41 Amanruya (95)...... 79 Valverde Hotel (94)...... 40 Santa Clara 1728 (93) *...... 40 Great Britain & Ireland + Africa & Middle East Pousada de Lisboa (92)...... 41 * New this year Santiago de Alfama (92) *...... 40 ADDRESS INQUIRIES TO HIDEAWAY REPORT, P.O. BOX 684368, AUSTIN, TX 78768. WHILE WE HAVE MADE EVERY EFFORT TO INCLUDE THE MOST UP-TO-DATE AND Bairro Alto Hotel (90)...... 41 DEFINITIVE INFORMATION IN COMPILING THIS BOOK, WE CANNOT ASSUME RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ERRORS, INACCURACIES OR OMISSIONS. PRICES INDICATED ARE BASED ON PUBLISHED RATES AT TIME OF PRINTING AND ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE. CALL ANDREW HARPER TRAVEL AT (800) 375-4685 FOR BEST AVAIL- Palácio Belmonte (90)...... 41 ABLE RATES. COPYRIGHT 2020 ANDREW HARPER, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. QUOTATION, REPRODUCTION OR TRANSMISSION BY ANY MEANS IS PROHIBITED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE PUBLISHER. ALL PHOTOGRAPHY IS COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL AND MAY NOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT PERMISSION. PHOTO BY JEAN-FRANCOIS JAUSSAUD Discover Serene Retreats in Portugal’s Countryside. Online.

Visit HideawayReport.com/Go/Portugal

Quinta da Côrte, Douro Valley

NEXT HIDEAWAY GUIDES — APRIL 2020 Great Britain & Ireland + Africa & Middle East

ADDRESS INQUIRIES TO HIDEAWAY REPORT, P.O. BOX 684368, AUSTIN, TX 78768. WHILE WE HAVE MADE EVERY EFFORT TO INCLUDE THE MOST UP-TO-DATE AND DEFINITIVE INFORMATION IN COMPILING THIS BOOK, WE CANNOT ASSUME RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ERRORS, INACCURACIES OR OMISSIONS. PRICES INDICATED ARE BASED ON PUBLISHED RATES AT TIME OF PRINTING AND ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE. CALL ANDREW HARPER TRAVEL AT (800) 375-4685 FOR BEST AVAIL- ABLE RATES. COPYRIGHT 2020 ANDREW HARPER, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. QUOTATION, REPRODUCTION OR TRANSMISSION BY ANY MEANS IS PROHIBITED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE PUBLISHER. ALL PHOTOGRAPHY IS COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL AND MAY NOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT PERMISSION. PHOTO BY JEAN-FRANCOIS JAUSSAUD