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The Food Myth

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The Food Myth THE FOOD MYTH OS_112015.P00.indd 1 10/21/15 5:04 PM OS57_092-101 Brain Food.indd 92 10/22/15 3:21 PM OS57_092-101 Brain Food.indd 93 10/22/15 3:21 PM WHAT IF WE TOLD YOU THAT THE FLAVOUR OF YOUR FOOD HAD MORE TO DO WITH YOUR SENSE OF SMELL THAN WHAT WAS GOING ON IN YOUR MOUTH? WHAT IF WE SAID THAT, IN THE FUTURE, EATING OUT WOULD BE A FULLY IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCE INVOLVING FOOD THAT HAS NEVER TASTED SO GOOD? THE FUTURE IS HERE AND IT HAS A GRIP ON YOUR SENSES WORDS: MARK JOHANSON ILLUSTRATIONS: KYLE SMART ry a quick experiment the next flavour – namely which bits of our brains In fact, research shows that smell may time a member of cabin crew light up when we’re tasting something,” account for as much as 80 to 90 per cent T drops by with food or drink. It’s explains Oxford professor Charles of what we perceive as flavour. Anyone nothing too demanding. Just take a bite Spence, author of The Perfect Meal. who’s ever had a cold and couldn’t or sip, think about how it tastes, then “The hope is that, by understanding the stomach the taste of their food already plug in your headphones and tune in to brain mechanisms underpinning how knows this, though they might not have one of the classical or jazz music stations. we experience flavours, we can better realised it at the time. What sort of sounds do you hear? design foods and beverages.” What it is that Spence is trying to Is it an upbeat and higher-pitched song Spence is kind of like the Yoda of discover is how various stimuli play a role with, say, a twinkling piano or chimes? If neurogastronomy. His Crossmodal in our dining experience. And his lab is so, you may find that your food or drink Research Laboratory is full of gizmos kind of like a kitchen for mad scientists. tastes slightly sweeter than before. But like aroma machines and taste pumps, “Imagine somebody comes in to the maybe it’s a slower and lower-pitched and he dishes out new studies at a lab,” he says, describing a typical day song you’re listening to, like brassy jazz dizzying rate that highlight the ways in at the office. “It’s a dark, silent room, or bass-heavy blues. These sounds might which “off plate” elements impact our maybe in a soundproof booth, and they bring out the bitter and umami tastes. perceptions of flavour. have a couple of tubes just underneath Researchers call this subtle change Up until recently food was discussed their nostrils and a couple of tubes lying in flavour perception “sonic seasoning,” almost exclusively in terms of taste. But on top of their tongue. We can deliver and it’s an important element within according to Spence, eating is actually one specific smells and specific tastes at the emerging field of research known of the most multisensory experiences we the same time, or different times, or as neurogastronomy. all have on a daily basis. Food isn’t just matching combinations of smell and “Neurogastronomy is the name given something we taste; it’s something we taste like sweetness on the tongue and to studies that look at the brain on touch, see, hear, and, above all else, smell. strawberry to the nose, or mismatching | 94 | | 95 | OS57_092-101 Brain Food.indd 94 10/22/15 3:21 PM | 94 | | 95 | OS57_092-101 Brain Food.indd 95 10/22/15 3:21 PM FOOD IS ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY DISCUSSED IN TERMS OF TASTE, BUT EATING IS ONE OF THE MOST MULTISENSORY EXPERIENCES WE HAVE | 96 | | 97 | OS57_092-101 Brain Food.indd 96 10/22/15 3:21 PM BRAIN FOOD combinations like the smell of chicken stock and a sweet taste.” Spence gets his subjects to respond and differentiate what they’re perceiving: How intense is it? How much do they like it? What shape are they thinking of at any given moment? If he plays music, can he enhance the experience of taste? It all might sound a bit crazy, but new insights into our multisensory perception of flavour have already had wide sweeping impacts on the products we consume. Have you noticed that several of your favourite chocolate bars recently hit the shelves with a “new shape”? That’s because a study sponsored by Nestlé found that curves – as opposed to straight lines – enhance inmouth perceptions of melting. Nestlé boils it down to something called “mouth geometry”: A curved shape is simply a better fit for your oral cavity. Other companies, like Unilever, are experimenting with reducing the sodium content of their food products while still maintaining the same salty taste by adding high levels of savoury aromas. Using 60 test subjects and two samples of beef bouillon, researchers found that a combination of potassiumbased salt replacers and savoury aromas could compensate for a 30 per cent reduction of sodium without any noticeable change in the flavour profile. Companies have also begun enhancing their products by offering sensory apps. Take agenas, for example. It recently released a ‘Concerto App’ that lets consumers scan a QR code on each ice cream carton to enjoy a private, twominute concerto. The brand believes this virtualreality showcase – a fiddler literally pops up from the carton top when viewed through your phone – will give the ice cream enough time to temper so that it’s at an ideal consistency when eaten. Rival Ben & Jerry’s, meanwhile, is rumoured to be developing a soundtrack to pair with its flavours. Perhaps the most exiting practical application of this research in neurogastronomy (and the closely related field of gastrophysics is how new ideas are filtering down into restaurant kitchens around the globe. | 96 | | 97 | OS57_092-101 Brain Food.indd 97 10/22/15 3:22 PM BRAIN FOOD “There are many chefs who can look Fantasy Food at the science and turn it into wonderful, creative, talked about, stimulating Five of the world’s best multisensory eating experiences experiences,” Spence said. “They will take an idea, put it on the menu, try it out, and you have the perfect environment to bring something away from the lab. You have real diners paying real money for real experiences.” Ultraviolet portions of hot and iced tea that don’t blend Spence believes there’s a new Ultraviolet is Shanghai’s most mysterious or Blumenthal’s signature Sound Of The generation of chefs right now who, for restaurant (it has no postal address) and Sea, which comes with an iPod tucked into the first time in history, are “thinking the culmination of 15 years of meticulous a conch shell to enhance the salinity of the about the minds of their diners and not planning from French chef Paul Pairet. Diners seafood it’s paired with. just about the sourcing, preparation and meet at an agreed spot and are ushered to thefatduck.co.uk presentation of the food on the plate”. a table in a bare-bones room nearby with One of his early collaborators was chef no décor whatsoever. As the 20-course Heston Blumenthal, whose three Michelin- meal begins, however, they find themselves starred restaurant, The Fat Duck, is located completely bombarded with stimulation, in the British village of Bray. Exploring from 360-degree wall projections to scent natural affinities between taste and sound, diffusers and mood lighting. The immersive alinea the pair discovered in 2007 that diners dining experience is choreographed in Chef Grant Achatz has brought the culinary perceive seafood as stronger and saltier a way that’s said to enhance the flavour carnival to Chicago with his inventive and when accompanied with the sounds perceptions of each dish. wildly acclaimed restaurant Alinea. From of the ocean – even if those seagull uvbypp.cc surprising scents to culinary pyrotechnics squawks and pounding waves emanated and mood-altering lights, dining at Alinea from a speaker. A dish resulting from the is nothing short of an adventure for the collaboration, called Sound Of The Sea, five senses. One of the most theatrical has became one of Blumenthal’s signature dishes has to be the Green Apple Balloon. items: A sculptural plate of seafood, tickets Bar This edible inflatable is made from apple seaweed and panko “sand” that comes The name is like a cruel joke because taffy that’s been puffed up with helium with an iPod tucked into a conch shell. tickets to Barcelona’s famed Tickets Bar and attached to an “apple leather” string. “Now more than ever the line are few and far between. But those who Guests pop the balloon to enjoy flavours between food and science is being do secure a spot (generally two months lighter than air. blurred,” Blumenthal explains. “Our in advance) can expect everything from alinearestaurant.com senses are so entangled and intertwined exploding olives to edible trees made of that the possibilities of what we can cotton candy in this eclectic tapas bar create are endless… I think we almost from Ferran Adrià, of El Bulli fame, and need to go back to the basics, examining his brother, Albert. Tickets draws equal how our primal senses react to the inspiration from the theatre and the circus, world around us to harness this in our with dishes that dabble in sensory-altering sUBlimotion enjoyment of food.” magic of the mind. Travel around the world, from the Spanish Sound Of The Sea was developed in ticketsbar.es island of Ibiza to the bottom of the ocean the early days of multisensory dining, a and the depths of outer space, on this movement that has since ballooned in 20-course culinary journey from Michelin- size and scope, birthing new restaurants stared chef Paco Roncero.
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