The Food Myth

THE FOOD MYTH

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Photography Patrick Demarchelier Patrick Photography The Dubai Mall, Fashion Catwalk Atrium

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ON THE COVER ANDREW NAGY

remember leaving university, Fully aware of government plans to as a twenty-something, with modernise India’s railway, we felt it only I hopes, dreams and an incredibly wise to send a writer there for one strong desire not to get a real job. final hurrah. “Go until your visa runs Not immediately at least. And so in out,” was the plan. And he did, and he’s hopelessly clichéd fashion, I set about put together a rather lovely feature booking a round-the-world trip. about it too. After a few weeks of prep (begging Another thing I remember about THE FOOD MYTH for money from parents and any other India is that back then, as a rather This month’s cover story will revolutionise wealthy relatives I could find), the route naïve traveller with a less than iron the way you eat. Neurogastronomy is was set. India-Thailand-Vietnam-Fiji- constitution, I feared eating almost the name of the game and it’s absolutely Australia-America. I was happy. everything. It resulted in a diet of, well, mindboggling. For our cover we went to It took my best friend roughly 20 bread. The upshot was that I lost a fair illustrator Kyle Smart, whose work has seconds to shoot down this dream. “Ooh, amount of weight and missed out on appeared in The Wall Street Journal mate. India? India ﬁrst? I wouldn’t do that whole host of fantastic food. and Port magazine. if I were you.” His thinking being that the Why am I telling you this? Well, our second most populous country on Earth other main feature this month is about might be such an assault on the senses neurogastronomy and it’s staggering. I that making it my ﬁrst port of call would won’t go into details here, but suffice have me running home within the week. to say that I know what you’ll be eating I followed his advice, and was in the future – it comes in a special ultimately pleased I did. Don’t get me shape to fit your mouth and with added wrong, India is an absolutely amazing sounds of the sea. country, with stunning landscapes and Enjoy the issue. NOW AVAILABLE ON YOUR IPAD rich history, but any journey there can be tough, particularly a first one and especially by train – watching the stark “WHAT MAKES INDIA SO TOUGH contrasts of life whizzing past your window. However, this is also what IS ALSO WHAT MAKES IT SUCH AN makes it one of the classic journeys. AMAZING COUNTRY TO VISIT”

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WE ARE PRESENT IN THE FOLLOWING COUNTRIES Albania, Andorra, Armenia, Bahrain, Belarus, Bosnia Herzegovina, Croatia, Cuba, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iran, Kosovo, Kuwait, Lebanon, Malta, Montenegro, Oman, Portugal, Qatar, Romania, Russia, Saudi Arabia, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Switzerland, Thailand, Turkey, United Arab Emirates, United Kingdom WE ARE ALSO PRESENT IN THE DEPARTMENT STORES OF El Corte Ingles (Spain), Falabella (Chile), Groupe Beaumanoir (France), Siman (El Salvador, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Costa Rica). For Bosnia Herzegovina, Kosovo, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, Slovenia: Primis Consult – [email protected] For Croatia: Pianoforte Croatia d.o.o. – [email protected] For Spain: [email protected] For Greece: Yama Hellas S.A. – [email protected] / For Portugal: Corrêa & Terenas S.A. – [email protected] For Russia: Indaco OOO – grechkoentrade.ru / For all the other countries: [email protected] CONTENTS

FRONT 22 30 32 35 42

Experience Flashback Entrepreneur Lunch With Stay 48 59

Neighbourhood Local Knowledge

MAIN 68 84 92

The Last Train Magnificent Sevens Brain Food

BRIEFING 104 110 112 114 116

Emirates News Inside Emirates Destination Comfort Visas, Quick Connect & Quarantine Information 120 122 128 130

UAE Smart Gate Route Map The Fleet Knowledge

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OS57_017 Contents.indd 17 10/22/15 3:09 PM CONTRIBUTORS

NOVEMBER

Some of the people who helped create this issue of Open Skies

ANDREW MERYL GARY MARK BIRBECK D’SOUZA EVANS JOHANSON

Andrew is an Edinburgh-born Meryl is the deputy digital Gary is a freelance feature Mark is an American writer author, writer and blogger editor at GQ India who turned, writer from Sunderland. who contributes to a number who contributes regularly to grudgingly, to journalism after His writing has appeared in of international publications a broad range of international accepting the hard truth that Rolling Stone, The Guardian, from his home in Santiago, and national titles. This month he just wasn’t good enough The Independent and Dazed Chile. This month he explores he spoke with Komal Ahmad, to become a professional & Confused. This month he the multisensory process who created an app to feed footballer. This month he writes about India. behind our ﬂavour. the homeless. writes about Diwali. “Travel the length and “It was mindboggling to “The beauty of an idea “As a Christian boy breadth of India by train: discover that eating is one often lies in simplicity. brought up in India, the that was my big idea. of the most multisensory Komal Ahmad and the festival of Diwali was an One of the world’s most of all human experiences. Feeding Forward team unusual but fun time. My populous countries, After speaking are focused on one goal friends got presents – I it turns out, is held with experimental – to end food poverty didn’t, but it’s an amazing together with red tape. psychologist Charles through excess food moment of celebration But the many delays and Spence, I will never look re-distribution. And it all and I still always love detours were what made at another meal in the comes down to an app.” the ﬁreworks.” this trip so special.” same way.”

KAYE CAROLYN SANDRA SEAN MARTINDALE STRITCH TINARI WILLIAMS

Kaye is a semi-nomadic writer Carolyn is a freelance Sandra is an Australian Sean is a British writer and currently based in Yorkshire’s photographer and blogger freelance journalist and photographer based in Berlin. beautiful Calder Valley. This from Newcastle. She spent photographer, based in Dubai. He has written for The New month she travelled down to four months photographing This month she wrote about Yorker, the Economist, VICE, London for lunch with the India, guided by one self- not only the fantastic Cafe and Esquire. This month he acclaimed chef Tom Sellers. imposed rule: she would Rider, but also man behind writes on how Rugby Sevens travel only by train. Vintage Watch Dubai. is rivalling the full game. “It’s always inspiring to hear of someone rising “There’s never a “As a journalist there “It’s almost strange from humble beginnings dull moment in was a wistfulness on writing about sevens to fulﬁl their dreams and India, arguably the seeing the functional rugby while the ambitions. My meeting most photogenic timepieces with a story 15-a-side guys are in the with British celebrity country in the world. collected by Vintage middle of a World Cup. chef, Tom Sellers, was Photographing its ever- Watch Dubai; if only But with the game soon the perfect heartwarming changing landscape they could whisper to take its Olympic bow story of a working class is thrilling, even if it of the tales they’ve in Rio, the gap between hero done good. And was through the dirty seen and the battles the two is much smaller boy, has he done good.” window of a train.” they’ve survived.” than I’d thought. ”

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From its modest beginnings in 1985, Emirates has grown to be one of the world’s leading airlines. With its focus on innovation and unwavering commitment to passenger satisfaction, Emirates has become a global success. As its partner for all 30 years, we’re proud to salute Emirates on this important milestone.

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Carefully curated content focused on unique experiences

Dior on display 24

Lunch With Stay Local Knowledge 35 42 59 FRONT

OS57_021-028 Experience.indd 21 10/22/15 3:11 PM ExpE riE ncE

November 3 The Melbourne Cup Melbourne, AustrA liA

ThIs MonTh’s MElbouRnE Cup wIll bRIng ausTRalIa To a sTanDsTIll onCE agaIn, MakIng IT a hoRsE RaCE ThaT’s lEss spoRT anD MoRE FIERCE naTIonal pRIDE

Jean Shrimpton wasn’t about to make the three-piece suit, straw-hat gloves and is no horse race, it’s a national institution. same mistake twice. Three days earlier, at tights. However, there was no denying Running since 1861, even the outbreak the horse race known as ‘The Derby’, the who had grabbed the front pages over the of war couldn’t stop it and it’s now a public British model hadn’t really given her outfit course of the biggest week in Australia’s holiday in Melbourne, mainly in weary (above) too much consideration, yet had annual sporting calendar. acceptance from workplaces that would both outraged Australian high society and Fifty years down the line fashion still report record sick leave on race day. thrust the miniskirt into global conscious in has a special place at the Melbourne Cup, With AUS$6.2 million to share between one effortlessly glamorous swoop. but it’s the day as a whole that has seen the first 10 past the post, it’s the richest Of course, after the furore had died it become known as The Race That Stops two-mile race on earth, and as a handicap down and she came to attend the main A Nation – now an official trademark by it offers an interesting glimpse into the event, the 1965 Melbourne Cup, the the Victoria Racing Club... and a poem by Australian psyche: with better horses woman described as the first supermodel Australian writer Vivienne McCredie, for weighted down, every nag has an equal

was rather more classically attired with that matter. Make no mistake about it: this chance – it’s all about who wants it most. Iwo RD s: an DRE w nagy I M ag E: g ETT y

Every year Emirates brings one of its many destinations to life in its Flemington Racecourse hospitality marquee. The Emirates Marquee has seen key attractions of the world recreated including the canals of Venice; France’s Chateau Versailles; Dubai’s bedouin villages; India’s vibrant colours and fragrant tastes. This year the theme is England.

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November 9 – 24 Le ThéâTre Dior Dubai, uaE ExPLOrE ThE LAST SEVEn DECADES OF DIOr hAuTE COuTurE AS ThE FAMED FAShIOn hOuSE ShOWCASES OVEr 60 OF ITS ICOnIC DrESSES In DuBAI

In 1947 the French designer Christian Dior effort and the general make-do-and-mend original, and was painstakingly recreated turned the fashion world upside down attitude of wartime Europe meant women using the same techniques and fabrics. when he launched a debut haute couture had been sporting simple, boxy and more For example, every last inch of the 1949 collection dubbed the New Look. His militaristic outfits. This helped the line Miss Dior dress, (allegedly named after clothes were all about creating feminine become a roaring success and soon his Christian’s sister Catherine), is covered in silhouettes, the pinnacle of which being New Look was being imitated the world beautiful individually handcrafted flowers. the Bar Suit. Easily his most iconic piece it over. You can discover just why at Le The show features outfits from the featured a large corolla skirt that kicked Theatre Dior, a travelling exhibition of last seven decades of Dior, including out over the hips with a white blazer that Dior’s most famous haute couture dresses the stunning gold dress worn by actress synched in at the waist. in small-scale form at The Dubai Mall’s Charlize Theron in the 2011 J’adore It might seem unusual to describe Fashion Catwalk Atrium this month. advert. So go along, pick your favourite and a single outfit as having great historical Each outfit – and there are more than convince yourself it’s a history lesson.

significance, but strict rationing, the war 60 of them – is perfectly identical to the dior.com WO r DS : LO u ISE qu IC k IMAGE: B A AS LGI DAS FO D IO

If you’re into fashion, check out Lifestyle TV on ice Digital Widescreen, home to fashion channels including Fashion One, E! and Video Fashion. Plus, the hit movie The Devil Wears Prada is showing in Film Club and In Louboutin’s Shoes is on channel 1274 in Documentaries.

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November 11 – 15 Diwali india

THErE’s soMETHING sooTHING ABouT THE sYMBolIC DIwAlI fIrEworK DIsplAYs You CAN ExpECT THIs MoNTH, sAYs MErYl D’souzA, GQ INDIA’s DEpuTY DIGITAl EDITor

When I was a child my Diwali-related with firecrackers earned you high-fives Hindu New Year. It’s the celebration of a emotions were always fear and jealousy. instead of a spanking. Staying up until the new beginning and an official holiday in Fear because for every dazzling firework early hours of the morning was also a Nepal, India, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Mauritius, show there were deafening firecrackers much-cherished prerequisite. I was well into Guyana, Trinidad and Tobago, Suriname, that would scare the life out of even my teens before I even bothered to find Malaysia, Singapore, Fiji and Pakistan. grown men. Jealousy because it wasn’t easy out what the festival was really about and There’s something highly symbolic and for a five-year-old Christian boy to see his what it meant to Hindus around the world. soothing in watching those fireworks closest friends receiving Diwali gifts while Hindu mythology tells an epic tale of illuminate the sky. It’s like letting go of standing just a few feet away. Lord Rama and his wife Sita returning your inhibitions, vanquishing your demons As time went on, the festival of lights to their kingdom in northern India from the past 12 months and looking became nothing more than a five-day from exile after defeating the demon on as they splatter into nothing against licence to create as much havoc as possible. king Ravana. In essence, the festival is a the ink-black sky – all the while creating The best part was that the adults were in celebration of light over darkness that something inexplicably beautiful for the

on it too, and pranking your neighbours happens to fittingly coincide with the rest of the world to watch. IMAGE: GETTY

Emirates serves nine destinations in India: Ahmedabad, Bengaluru, Chennai, Hyderabad, Kochi, Kolkata, Trivandrum, Mumbai and New Delhi.

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FOR SHOPPING LOVERS CASTELLANA STORE MADRID / DIAGONAL STORE BARCELONA

DEPARTMENT STORES SPAIN & PORTUGAL ExpE riE ncE

November 27 – 29 Abu DhAbi GrAnD Prix Yas Marina circuit, uaE

ForMEr WorLD chAMPIoN DrIVEr JENSoN BuTToN oN ThIS MoNTh’S GrAND PrIx FINALE, ThE PErcEIVED GLAMour oF F1, AND hoW hE hASN’T EVEN ThouGhT ABouT rETIrEMENT yET

Let me tell you this: Abu Dhabi is a great almost feels like an end of term party. at McLaren, but I don’t tend to wear one circuit. I’ve been on the podium there This season’s been a little rough, but it’s during the race, as it’s important to be as three times and it’s a fun track to drive on. also had positives. Thankfully, every race in F1 light as possible when you’re racing. Out That said, it has its own unique challenges. is a new opportunity to win – you can’t really of the car I’ve been wearing the Formula 1 Its sectors are made up of two almost look at it any other way. There’s no doubt chronograph McLaren special edition. completely different parts: fast corners this is a very glamorous sport and as drivers As for retirement, I’m not thinking about and long straights in Sectors One and Two, we’re extremely fortunate, but there’s a lot anything beyond next year at this point. and a tight, twisty, slow-speed bit in Sector of hard work, long hours, media and partner This is my 16th year in F1 and I know I Three. It really does have everything, and commitments, time spent on planes, jet lag, won’t be on the grid forever, but the sport for a driver it’s very satisfying to race there. training, and all the other elements that come has been part of my life for so long that A lot of my affinity for the place with driving in 19 Grand Prix races a year. I haven’t really contemplated what I’d do probably also comes from the fact that it’s I’ve worked with Tag Heuer on a number when I hang up my helmet.

usually the last race of the season and it of campaigns and activities during my time abudhabi-grand-prix.com IMAGE: GETT y

Watch real-time sport on ice TV Live, which is now available on more than 70 of our Boeing 777 aircraft. The Sport 24 channel airs live F1 races including the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix on November 29. More aircraft with ice TV Live are coming soon.

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OS57_021-028 Experience.indd 28 10/22/15 3:11 PM Miranda Kerr

Watch AED 1,170 FLASHBACK

THE SPRUCE GOOSE FLIES

ON NOVEMBER 2, 1947, ECCENTRIC BILLIONAIRE HOWARD HUGHES FLIES THE LARGEST, LONGEST, WIDEST PLANE EVER SEEN

The look on Howard Hughes’ face was a picture. Having taken the flying boat HK-4 Hercules on two increasingly quicker taxi tests, one final attempt was set to go. As the wooden behemoth sped across the water, it slowly rose to 70ft, coming back down with a surprisingly graceful splash around 1.6km later. The Spruce Goose had just taken what would be its one and only flight. Despite a revered place in history, the Spruce Goose (a nickname Hughes detested) was actually something of a problem. In 1942, with the US in the grip of World War II and the Allies suffering at the hands of German U-boats in the Atlantic, a large aircraft carrier was required – and Howard Hughes was commissioned, along with ship builder Henry J. Kaiser, to build it. Unfortunately, Hughes was something of a perfectionist. He didn’t build BIRDWATCHING normal; it had to be the fastest or the slowest, the biggest or the smallest. According to Kaiser, it was this which caused the delays that meant HUGHES’ ORIGINAL FLYING construction didn’t even begin until 1944 – when the war was coming to an BOAT STILL STANDS end and the plane not needed. Kaiser promptly walked off the project leaving Hughes to go it alone with the modified HK-4 Hercules model instead. After leaving Hughes’ hangar – since used as a By 1947 it was ready, but Hughes was called to a Senate War Investigating movie set for films such as Titanic and End of Committee to answer why $22m of government funds had been used on just Days – the Spruce Goose was bought by the one prototype. “The Hercules was a monumental undertaking,” he explained. Aero Club of Southern California and used in a “It is the largest aircraft ever built. It is over five stories tall with a wingspan number of exhibitions. It now has, what should longer than a football field. That’s more than a city block. Now, I put the sweat hopefully be, a final resting place at the Evergreen of my life into this thing…. if it’s a failure, I’ll probably leave this country and Aviation Museum in Oregon, US. Undoubtedly never come back. And I mean it.” star attraction, here visitors can wander around On November 2, 1947 the Spruce Goose flew, thus validating the use of the wooden beast at their leisure. government funds. After which it was kept in a climate-controlled hangar with evergreenmuseum.org a full-time staff keeping it operational right up until Hughes’ death in 1976.

If you’re an aviation enthusiast in London, check out The Emirates Aviation Experience, which gives an insight into the modern achievements of commercial air travel. If you’re in Dubai, visit The Emirates A380 Experience which lets you take the controls in our state-of-the art flight simulator at Dubai Mall.

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Feeding Forward San FranciS co, c aliF ornia

Words: AndreW BirBeck iMAGe: JuliA roBBs

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OS57_032-033 Entrepreneur.indd 32 10/22/15 3:12 PM ENTREPRENEUR

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

For the real San Francisco… head for Mission. It’s a great district with real local flavour and the excellent Tartine Bakery. For terrific city views hang out in Dolores Park. If you just have a day in the city I’d recommend… hiring a bike in Golden Gate Park, cycling to the bridge and grabbing brunch or lunch at North Beach. The best coffee in town… I love Philz Coffee. There are a few around but you’ll find the original on 24 Street in Mission. The best advice I can give is… Take time to figure out your calling and when you do, follow through, no matter what. Own your dream.

n 2012 Komal Ahmad had what could endeavours as “simple yet highly effective detects the user’s location and immediately be described as an epiphany. Appalled food recovery that essentially redistributed matches their excess food to nearby I by the homelessness and hunger she excess edible food from campus dining organisations in need,” explains Ahmad. “An witnessed in and around Berkeley, where halls to nearby after-school programmes, on-demand driver picks up and delivers. she was studying medicine with a view homeless shelters and other human The organisation will then send a thank- to joining the Navy, Komal had an idea. service agencies”. The positive impact was you message along with a picture and/or It sounds like simplicity itself, a glaringly immediate and the programme quickly testimonials of the people the delivery fed. obvious solution to a problem that really spread throughout the San Francisco Bay It allows the user to see the actual impact shouldn’t exist. Area. At face value all this sounds relatively made in people’s lives.” Ahmad noticed that thousands of easy and makes perfect sense. However, the Across the planet food waste takes tonnes of perfectly edible food was being logistics and organisation are simply mind- place on an unimaginable scale. The thrown away each day. It led her to the boggling. And that’s where can-do thinking, statistics are truly shocking. In the US alone question: what if that food could be determination, innovation, a great team an estimated 40 per cent of consumable re-directed to those who so desperately working together and technology come in. food produced goes to waste. To put this needed it? From tiny acorns giant oaks “I realised the traditional method of in perspective, that equates to around grow. Starting at UC Berkeley, Ahmad coordinating food donations over the 165 million kilos per day. It’s difficult to began to organise a food re-direction phone is fraught with inefficiencies,” reconcile this fact with hunger being a programme. It was both a runaway success explains Ahmad. “Often people end stark reality for a significant portion of and steep learning curve. “The issue is not up with excess food and are unable to the American population and, of course, a lack of food, but rather an inequitable locate and contact the people who need around the globe. Bizarrely too there distribution of it,” she says. “The food it most when they need it most. Feeding are huge fiscal and environmental costs recovery scheme we started on campus Forward solves this issue by using the attached to disposing of this excess with was called BareAbundance which, in a speed and accessibility of smart phones.” more than a billion dollars per annum short time, became the not-for-profit The technology, which is constantly being being spent in the US to get rid of food. organisation Feeding Forward.” updated and enhanced, allows businesses Much of it ends up in landfill too with With willing on-site volunteers and and organisations to register a food inherent environmental implications. Re- the co-operation of the college, food surplus. The only information needed is the distribution seems to be the answer and that otherwise would have either been type of food available, how much there is there’s no reason for the initiative not to composted or binned was re-distributed and when it should be collected. Feeding spread far beyond American borders. locally. Komal describes her initial Forward does the rest. “Our platform feedingforward.com

Have you downloaded the Emirates App? Available for iPhone, iPad and Android, the Emirates App makes it easy to view and arrange your trips when you’re on the go. Designed to complement the iPhone app, there’s also an Emirates App for Apple Watch.

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Lunch with

Tom SellerS We meet the UK’s most talked about chef at his Michelin-starred Restaurant Story

WORDS: Kaye MaRtinDale iMageS: geOff BROKate

ell this is awkward. how he’s only just found out about the interview, leaving us to Tom Sellers, rising star of the UK’s burgeoning haggle over how much time we have. Once settled and with his W food scene, and owner of the hugely popular small white dog, Daphne, in tow, we talk. Restaurant Story in London, is late; 20 minutes late to be exact. I’d read about Tom’s transformation from slacker schoolboy Once here, and in-between apologising profusely, he explains to focused and driven chef who plotted his career through

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The Team Members of LUX* help people to celebrate life with the most simple, fresh and sensory hospitality in the world.

MAURITIUS REUNION MALDIVES CHINA U.A.E (2016) | LUXRESORTS.COM

LUX*_AD_Emirates.indd 1 10/14/14 4:45 PM Lunch with

i loved the kitchen – the camaraderie with a group of people, the pressure, the heat. i was a rogue as a kid but just connected with the discipline in there

the kitchens of the finest restaurants in the world with a should have expected from someone who’s based the concept chess player’s precision. Along the way he became one of the of their restaurant around their life. youngest chefs in the UK with his own restaurant to boot. As he talks about revelling in the high-octane pressure of life With a modish side fringe and an air of mischeif about him, in a kitchen, I wonder where this laidback guy found the drive Tom appears younger than his 28 years, but while his face to fight his way to the top of such a competitive industry. “I fell offers a warm smile and open manner, his body language tells in love with the energy that you get from cooking,” he explains. another story. His arms are folded high around his ribcage “The camaraderie with a group of people, the pressure, the while his torso and legs point away from me – part defensive, heat. I was a bit of a rogue as a kid and there was a discipline part ready to dash off to the next part of his day. there that I connected with.” Like most people, he warms up as he starts to talk and the At the age of 16, life came into focus as he decided – as time-conscious urgency melts away as he falls into the slow lilt he has throughout his career – that if he was going to do of his Midland accent. He’s happy to talk at length about his something, he wasn’t going to settle for second best. He humble beginnings in a “normal Nottingham estate”, winding knocked on the door of Tom Aiken, then London’s most his way through tales in an unguarded manner that perhaps I innovative chef, and asked for a job. After a one-day trial he

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I remember standIng outsIde readIng that revIew, In tears, thInkIng to myself: ‘just what have I done?’

was offered a commis chef position. He leans in, offering me a snippet of classic Tom Sellers folklore “Tom [Aiken] said, ‘I’ll pay you £12,000 a year and you work 110 hours a week.’” It was a masterstroke, the first of Tom’s many bold leaps out of his comfort zone and into the unknown. “I found out very quickly that I was entering a very different world. Tom [Aiken] is a very intense individual who expected the highest standards in a very pressured high-speed environment.” Rising to the occasion, the previous serial underachiever found the challenge infectious. Aiken went on to become an influential figure in Tom’s life. Unlike the 16-year-old who fell into food without too much “He realised I had some talent and saw that I was young and of a plan, two years later Tom was now showing the clearly driven so he invested a lot, becoming a father figure to me. I thought out determination and confidence that has brought was in his kitchen 19 hours a day and it was there that I went him success at such a young age. “When I left London the big from being a teenager to a young man.” drive for me was that I wanted to do things, to show that I But like all father/son relationships there came a point where wasn’t the underachiever I’d been at school. My plan was to Tom felt he had to go his own way. Nervous to broach the work with great chefs and in the back of my mind I was like: subject with his mentor, he found the words to say he felt it ‘One day it’ll be a dream to cook my own food.’ I truly believe I was time to leave. Aiken could see Tom’s potential and arranged was meant to cook; to express myself with food.” the job of a lifetime for his protégé at Per Se in the US, one of At 18, Tom left behind the life that had shaped him and the world’s top restaurants. “It felt like it was a reward for all bought a one-way ticket to New York. His time at Per Se the dedication and hard work I’d done for him. I think he knew gave him the skills he needed to take his skillset and sense of that Per Se could take me to places that he couldn’t.” possibility to the next level. Watching Thomas Keller manage

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opinion that Story was simply “a restaurant to tick off the list and not to revisit”. He turns to me momentarily as if searching for sympathy, as he confesses to “standing outside in tears after reading the review thinking, ‘What have I done?’” Keen to put a positive spin on a bad situation, Tom now thinks the reviewer did him a favour. “It made me think long and hard about how we can continue to reinvent ourselves, to keep moving forward and refining what we do.” As we begin to wrap up the interview, Tom’s body rests back and he turns the chair away from me, gazing out of the window. I sense he’s shifting into a different mode, moving away from the temporary compliance he’d offered as he prepares to step back into the lead role. Interestingly, as the the place gave him a wider view of what it meant to be a chef. photographer starts snapping away, his eyes narrow and his He started to see that he could pull together a brand and a smile gives way to a stern frown. His whole being takes on a concept to create a common goal with a group of people. petulant countenance as if to portray the rock ‘n’ roll figure Listening to Tom, I get the sense he’s spent a lot of time talking he’s hyped up to be in the media. and thinking about his ‘journey’, as he explains both his personal More pressing duties beckon Tom as he steps into the and professional development while in New York. kitchen. Rough-housing with his team, giving everyone a However, after almost two years at Per Se Tom found friendly punch on the shoulder. I leave with the distinct himself, once again, hungry for the next challenge. Next was a impression that the man is still a boy at heart. brief stint in France where he found the 40-hour working week limiting, followed by a return to London for a spell at Trinity, where he focused on the business end of being a chef. Keen to return to an elite kitchen, Aiken again orchestrated a high-profile position at the world renowned Noma restaurant in Copenhagen. “It was hard. I had to learn a new way of cooking, of thinking: It was a totally different philosophy.” The most important thing that he learnt at Noma was that it was time to go it alone. “I didn’t care how old I was or what people were going to say to me.” With the philosophy that has defined Tom’s short career he decided that he should stop thinking about it and do it. Two years later he took the most decisive step of his career and opened London restaurant, Story. Feeling the weight of expectation, Tom was determined that Story be a reflection of his identity and tell the tale of his background, philosophy and journey. Petrified that he would be seen only as a facsimile of his illustrious list of mentors, he created a menu grounded in traditional British cooking, with more than a nod to his working class background. His signature recipe is the ‘candle’, a bread and beef dripping dish, inspired by his father’s favourite weekend meal. “It all started with that dish and went on from there. I always The Bill wanted a restaurant and always wanted to call it Story, Apple and carrot juice – US$7 because I was going to tell what I was all about. My story, my life, everything I’ve worked for: the hours of blood, sweat and Set lunch – US$60 tears, it all came down to this.” Gaining a Michelin star within five months of opening was With either: the perfect start. However, despite all the accolades and Scallops, cucumber and dill ash or crab, glowing reviews, the ever driven Tom is still spurred on by his smoked leek, rapeseed, pear and lovage first and worst review. Despite his frequent pronouncements that he’s never asked for anyone’s approval, he seems haunted by the reviewer’s Total: US$67

Emirates’ eight daily flights to London will all be served by the highly popular A380s from January 1, 2016, cementing the airline’s status as the largest international A380 operator into the British capital.

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Trump SoHo New York, US

Words: Marina Chetner iMages: truMp soho

Trump SoHo New York, a hotel named over the famed metropolis. Luxury with views of the Hudson River, uptown for, well, you know who (now, of course, travellers, high-flying executives, and Manhattan, Brooklyn, and beyond. as the rather outspoken Republican families trailing an entourage seek out Top perk: an in-house car that candidate as well as retail magnate), the 2,300-square-foot duplex penthouse chauffeurs guests within a two-mile is becoming something of a jewel in that rises from the 43rd to the 44th radius from the hotel. Penthouse guests downtown Manhattan. floor. Adorned with art and encased in have access to an upgraded fleet of In a city as cramped as this, the guest windows, it has two bedrooms, two- Bentleys and Maybachs. The Trump rooms here are a retreat; so spacious, and-a-half bathrooms, and ample areas standard of service? Polished to a T. they have soaking baths with views for entertaining, plus an open terrace trumpsoho.com

Emirates serves New York three times daily – and all three services are with the Emirates A380.

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OS57_042-046 Stay.indd 42 10/22/15 3:15 PM Yas Mall celebrates you this November. It’s Yas Mall’s 1st Anniversary and you and your family are invited to a memorable month of celebrations all day long. Catch the very best in entertainment, dining, shopping and more...

YAS MALL, WHERE IT’S ALL HAPPENING YAS ISLAND – ABU DHABI

#YasMall Stay: ClaSSi C

Brown’s Hotel London, UK

Words: Mark Evans IMagEs: BroWn’s HotEl

If there were a checklist for ‘the hotel, its magnificent Victorian exterior positively bristles with history. quintessential London hotel’, Brown’s resplendent against a line of equally Yet inside it also achieves a Hotel would confidently tick them all impressive neighbours. Delve into that contemporary feel – Brown’s off. Location? The heart of Mayfair. 178-year history and you’ll discover a underwent a US$37 million History? 178 years and counting. who’s who of impressive guests and refurbishment in 2005 – and avoids Celebrity restaurant? The Hix Mayfair, former residents: Alexander Graham Bell the stuffiness of some of its illustrious with much-vaunted chef Mark Hix at made the first phone call here, Rudyard counterparts. The result is arguably one the helm. Kipling wrote The Jungle Book here, London’s finest hotels, regardless of But that flippancy doesn’t do the Roosevelt stayed, Conan Doyle stayed, how you choose to measure it. old girl justice. Brown’s is a beautiful Stevenson, Barrie and Stoker stayed… it roccofortehotels.com

Visiting London? The Emirates Air Line cable car promises great views of the city. The ten-minute journey crosses the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula and the Royal Docks.

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Park Hyatt ZuricH Zurich, SwitZ erland

Words: AndreW nAgy ImAges: PArk HyAtt ZurIcH

This could very well be the best time of crafted menu for brain, mood and clean lined and comfortable luxury. year to stop at the Park Hyatt Zurich. beauty. The creation of nutritionist Of course, summer’s just fine here too, Wander in from a weekend on the Marianne Botta, it taps into modern but you can’t shake the feeling that this a slopes to a warm, welcoming lobby, and wisdom on the power of diet. festive place. In fact, throw in a Christmas collapse into one of the large sofas by Once you make it past lobby level cookie making class – there are two in the library and roaring fireplace. you’ll find exactly what you would November – and you’ve got the perfect You’ll also benefit from its intriguing expect from a five-star hotel in the base for a wintery weekend in Zurich. approach to food, with a scientifically heart of Switzerland: not edgy cool but zurich.park.hyatt.com

Zurich is all A380-route with two flights a day operated by Emirates’ flagship double-decker aircraft.

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OS57_042-046 Stay.indd 46 10/22/15 3:15 PM A perfect destination for the whole family. Despite fast-paced development in Al Ain, it is still a safe and quiet place surrounded by greenery and extraordinary nature. It offers a relaxing retreat for any individual after a tiring day at work or school and is a must-visit tourist destination.

Al Ain National Museum Al Ain Palace Museum Green Mubazzarah The oldest museum in the UAE. Open The museum is based in the Palace of Is an area with sulphur water wells and since 2 November 1971, it displays the the former UAE President Sheikh Zayed hot springs; it has developed into an city’s unique heritage and history. Bin Sultan Al Nahyan and his family and important tourist destination further is regarded as a memorial and a unique defined by beautiful gardens. cultural landmark.

Jebel Hafeet Al Jahili Fort Rising 1,240 metres above sea level One of Al Ain’s biggest forts; its and visible from outer space, these construction began in 1891 and was towering heights have obtained a place completed in 1898. as the number one family destination.

800 555 @visitabudhabi visitabudhabi.ae Neighbourhood

BOSTON SOUTH END DISTRICT

Words: AdrIAN MoUrBY IMAges: KATe TAdMAN-MoUrBY

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Thirty years ago you would only go to of Tremont Avenue was brought into the process of gentrification began in South End if you had no other choice. being. South End lay on the other side the 1990s, South End had all the raw Cut off from central Boston by ‘The of Tremont and was always the poor material for a trendy shopping and Zone’ – a gangland area where visitors relation. Small-scale industrialisation restaurant neighbourhood. were unwelcome – this Victorian suburb followed, then came the commercial In recent years Southie’s long rows had fallen on hard times. stagnation of the 20th century. There of red brick terraces and parks have South End was created after the simply wasn’t the money to pull blossomed with design shops, pet American Civil War when huge areas Southie’s buildings down. As a result its parlours, delis, restaurants and arts of Boston Bay were filled in and the gracious old houses and commercial venues. Former tenements now change fashionable ‘Back Bay’ area to the north blocks were left mostly intact. So when hands for millions of dollars.

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TORO TAPAS

Founded in an old piano factory in 2005, Toro Tapas is the brainchild of two celebrated chefs, Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette, who wanted to create an out-of-the-way restaurant that people would discover. It was a brave move to come to South End even 11 years ago, but Toro Tapas’ very liberal take on Spanish cuisine took off almost immediately. The place is packed and noisy every night. Disarmingly, Jamie admits that he has no idea why his compact roadside restaurant is so popular: “If I knew I would bottle it and make a fortune.” Toro opens at 6pm (5.30 at weekends) and you need to be there early to get a table. Expect Spanish dishes like paella but also deliciously sweet corn on the cob, octopus, “hamburguesas” and hamachi. There’s quite a strong sense of Spain meets Japan at Toro Tapas. As one waiter told me: “The menu is basically whatever Jamie feels like making.” 1704 Washington St | +1 617 536 4300 | toro-restaurant.com/boston LEKKER HOME

Lekker means “yummy” in Dutch, but Natalie Van Dijk Carpenter, who founded this design store in 2003. prefers to translate it as “approachable”. Based in a modern block on Washington Avenue, Lekker imports tables, sofas, dishes, cushions and lamps from more than 50 designers across Europe as well as in Japan and America. Its style is modern but warm, with none of the starkness of some contemporary designers or the disposability of IKEA. Lekker Home products are made to last, like the teak and oak tables from Belgium, which have become something of a Boston classic, or the Japanese ceramic tableware, the brushed stainless steel Italian cutlery and the Scrimshaw whale, lobster and octopus trays from New England. According to manager Katie Kavanagh, students who came in 12 years ago just to buy a candle are now earning well and furnishing their entire homes from Lekker. 1313 Washington St | +1 617 542 6464 | lekkerhome.com

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FORMAGGIO KITCHEN – SOUTH END

Formaggio was one of the first new enterprises to give South End a chance. An offshoot of a much larger delicatessen in Cambridge, it opened here on the last day of 1999. Although Formaggio carries a wide selection of wines and coffee, herbs and spices, hams and jams, it’s for cheese that the shop is best known. There are more than 100 in stock at any one time, all selected by David Robinson, Formaggio’s dedicated cheese buyer. He visits every producer individually, even the Frenchman on a hillside with just 60 goats. The store’s import licence means that it’s able to import quickly, ensuring freshness. Its Poilâne bread is Fedexed overnight from Paris every Wednesday and is on the shelves by Thursday afternoon. Formaggio has the look of a small European deli. Stock is piled high and there’ll usually be one or two customers who have called in for a cup of $1.50 coffee at the counter. 268 Shawmut Ave | +1 617 350 6996 | southendformaggio.com THE BUTCHER SHOP

Celebrity chef Barbara Lynch’s latest venture on Restaurant Row – the most popular part of Tremont Street as far as Boston diners are concerned – is The Butcher Shop, which sits just opposite Barbara’s seafood outlet, B&G Oysters. Inside, the restaurant is stripped-back brick, brushed steel and dark wood. Customers sit at high brasserie-style tables, at the grey soapstone bar, or cluster round a huge wooden butcher’s block on which meat master classes are held at weekends. Specialities of the house include steak tartare, a signature burger, Wagyu Denver steak, and the house pasta with meaty Bolognese sauce. There’s also an ambitious range of ten artisanal cheeses. The house red came from an Austrian vintner called Herr Heinrich, who was so impressed by his meal that he declared his intention to create a unique wine just for Barbara Lynch. Butcher’s open till midnight but evening bookings are essential. 552 Tremont St | +1 617 423 4800 | thebutchershopboston.com

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PATCH NYC

For adorable objects that you don’t need but absolutely must have, there’s nowhere better than Patch NYC, a store founded in New York by two designers, John Ross and Don Carney. Three years ago they moved to a gated courtyard enclave in South End that’s home to several artists. The new Patch store sells a cornucopia of items: pillows and postcards, scarves and lamps, jewellery, ceramic playing cards, and some very expensive Italian candles. John and Don design 40 per cent of the range themselves and import the rest. Don has a penchant for reworking Victoriana and Day Of The Dead imagery. The store rarely opens before midday and doesn’t advertise its existence. According to John, almost all their customers come from word of mouth recommendations. “People coming to Boston seem to know about us.” Patch also runs a gallery on the opposite side of the courtyard hosting regular exhibitions of art they like. 46 Waltham St | +1 617 426 0592 | patchnyc.com MICHELE MERCALDO JEWELRY

Michele Mercaldo was the first jeweller to move into South End in the 1990s and she transferred to premises in tree-lined Shawmut Avenue in 2004. Michelle works at the back of this spacious shop with her three assistants, creating a range of silver and gold rings, bracelets and necklaces and also resetting heirloom jewellery. As a designer she has a particular enthusiasm for the lustrous silvery-white metal palladium, and her work sells for anything from $60 to $12,000. She also showcases work by other jewellers she likes, many of them her former assistants. New artwork is displayed on the walls with a fresh artist exhibiting every three months. At the same time that the interior of the shop is rethought, the window display is also changed. This tends to be a work of art in its own right. At the time we visited it was in the form of a bamboo grove. 276 Shawmut Ave | +1 617 350 7909 | michelemercaldo.com

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WALLY’S CAFE JAZZ CLUB

The oldest continuously operating Jazz cafe in America, Wally’s was founded in 1947 by Joseph “Wally” Walcott, a Barbadian immigrant who lived to the ripe old age of 100 before passing the cafe on to his three sons, Frank, Lloyd and Paul. Rooted in South End’s Afro-American community (as a student Martin Luther King lived just a few doors away), Wally’s was nevertheless the first New England jazz club to offer a platform to racially integrated groups. Charlie Parker, Billie Holiday and Art Blakey all performed here and today Wally’s takes its role as Boston’s unofficial jazz academy very seriously. It’s open 365 days a year and the first few hours are always given over to students. There’s no cover charge but a bucket is passed around this narrow ground floor bar for the musicians. Get there between 9.30 and 10pm for the best guest acts and make sure you carry photo-ID to prove your age. 427 Massachusetts Ave | +1 617 424 1408 | wallyscafe.com BOSTON CENTEr FOr THE ArTS

Even in the dangerous 1960s the BCA was always there on Tremont Street, occupying Cyclorama, a 19th century domed building designed to hold a vast 400-foot, 360-degree reconstruction of the Battle Of Gettysburg. That canvas is now in the Gettysburg Museum And Visitor Center and the stunning circular exhibition space left behind is now BCA’s main event venue. The rest of the complex consists of three theatres, the white-box Mills Art Gallery, and the Beehive jazz venue. The centre is also home to Boston Ballet and four theatre companies. Next door, in a 2004 extension, the Stanford Calderwood Pavilion contains two further theatres. It was built on the site of Boston’s National Theatre, which in its time presented the shows by Sammy Davis Jr and Duke Ellington. The centre opens daily at noon and, needless to say, with all that space there is always something playing or on display at BCA. 539 Tremont St | +1 617 426 5000 | bcaonline.org

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LocaL KnowL edge Cafe RideR A combination of serious coffee and specialist motorbikes might sound unusual (it is unusual), but it could well be Dubai’s most intriguing cafe

words and IMaGEs: sandra TInarI

art specialty coffee bar, part motorcycle workshop, Cafe As you might imagine, the remit sees a diverse customer Rider is tucked away within Dubai’s industrial zone and base fill the place, from bikers resting after a morning ride to P drawing an eclectic community of coffee connoisseurs families with children whizzing across the cafe’s floors on toy and bike enthusiasts alike. motorcycles and cars. “Cafe Rider is different, and you will sense it when you walk “There is such a crossover,” Moulvi says of his customers. “It’s in,” says founder Murtaza Moulvi. “We believe ourselves to be become a place for artists no matter what their art might be, curators of art in a sense. We source the best coffee beans with caffeine being the common thread. It’s what Dubai is – a we can to offer that perfect cup of coffee, and create the best mix of the local and expat community, who all feel comfortable custom designed motorcycles we can build, too.” enough to venture into this unassuming, unpretentious

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Free SIM with credit

Present your boarding pass at one of the below locations to get your Free prepaid SIM with credit* UK - WHSmith store at Birmingham, Heathrow & Manchester Arrivals Netherlands - Lebara stand at Amsterdam Schiphol Plaza (located near the arrival exits 3 or 4) Australia - Lebara Stand at Sydney International airport (located at arrival exits AB & CD) Denmark - WHSmith store at Copenhagen Arrivals

*Terms and conditions apply at lebara.com. Credit included with your FREE SIM will be: £1 in the UK, €1 in the NL, $1 in Australia & 10 DKK in Denmark.

LG7263P_5f_Emirates Ad_195x260mm_09-07-15.indd 1 14/07/2015 18:01 LocaL KnowL edge

Cafe RideR offeRs ameRiCan-style food and Coffee fReshly impoRted fRom a small san fRansisCo RoasteR, seRving signatuRe dRinks and pouR-oveRs, along with espResso and CappuCCino

warehouse on the edge of Al Quoz. This is the Dubai I grew up As unusual as the concept might be, for Moulvi it was a in and that’s what I love seeing.” natural choice. “I am born and bred in Dubai, where nothing Cafe Rider offers American-style food and coffee freshly is impossible. Dubai has always been the one to start the imported from a small San Fransisco roaster, serving signature quirky trends and not afraid to try something new. We chose drinks and pour-overs, along with espresso and cappuccino. Its Al Ouoz as it’s the road less travelled by many who think only mechanics revive old-school bobbers, cafe racers and modern ‘glamourous Dubai’ exists. ‘Mad Max’ machines. A corner concept store also does a brisk “We realised the gamble of doing so but were hoping that trade, with own branded T-shirts, and leather message bags and there were lots of people like us, who wanted to have an gloves, as well as stocking emerging brands. unplugged place to hang out. We opened Cafe Rider to be able There is one thing that Moulvi would like to be clear to show a different side of Dubai. It’s home-grown and organic. about, however. “We’re not a theme café,” he explains. “We That’s what resonates with residents and tourists here in UAE. continuously make sure we concentrate on the product and go Cafe Rider is a product of passion and that can be seen and felt to great lengths to be true to the core of what want to spark the moment you walk in.” in this region: a revival of cafe culture.” café-rider.com

the City sightseeing hop-on hop-off bus is a great way to explore dubai. learn more about City sightseeing dubai, and all the routes and stops at citysightseeing-dubai.com

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OS57_059-065 Local Knowledge.indd 61 10/22/15 3:17 PM 8911_Bridal ad_Open Skies_195x260.pdf 1 8/23/15 5:55 PM LocaL KnowL edge VIntage Watch DubaI Luxury watches are easy to find in Dubai, but if you’re looking for something a little different and with a story to tell, there’s a man you should meet

t’s hard to get a word in edgewise with watch connoisseur, An avid collector of vintage watches with a strong narrative, Osman Bhurgri. Not because the Irishman is a big talker, Bhurgri recently launched a small collection for sale through Dubai’s I but because he – or more specifically his watches – are independent concept stores. His vintage pieces have seen battle and in demand. the depths of the Arctic seas – which naturally is part of the appeal. Naively, I’d chosen a busy local cafe for an interview with the “It’s the story they tell. The collecting of vintage watches is a man behind Vintage Watch Dubai. When it comes to Bhurgri’s compelling hobby for men as they’re really the only accessories collection, men are like bees to honey. As soon as he opened we get to wear. These fantastic little pieces of macro mechanical his case, filled with rare workhorse timepieces lovingly restored, engineering have survived so much, in many cases outliving he draws an inquisitive crowd. their original owners.

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“I love the functionality aspect of a watch from eras such as the 1980s and ’90s, when having an accurate timepiece was an essential part of everyday living – as opposed to checking the time on your phone.” Bhurgri’s collection includes rare diving watches by niche Italian brand, Squale, a clock from a Russian MiG jet and an air force issued Precista 6BB that was likely deployed at Bessbrook military heliport in his home country of Northern Ireland during the 30- year conflict commonly referred to simply as The Troubles. Vintage Watch Dubai started as social media fun but strong interest saw Bhurgri launch the brand with watches for sale, offering original military of defence straps obtained internationally or made of Dubai camel hide. i love the story that some “It’s really an equal mixture of obsessively hunting online and watches have to tell, not to sheer luck,” Bhurgri says of his sourcing methods. If watches have a story to tell, then working order or even being in one mention the fact that they piece is non-essential. A prize purchase was a box filled with are really the only accessory watches and was secured at a Ministry Of Defence auction that held a variety of timepieces in disarray. men should have “Repair-wise, you need to do the smaller stuff yourself, such as inspecting a watch and having a basic understanding of parts. For small things, like bezel changes, straps and adjustments, I enjoy doing them but for more complicated work, I send the watches to my watchmaker in Ireland. Behind every great watch collection there should be a great watchmaker. Think of them like a doctor!” Vintage Watch Dubai has struck a chord as buyers return to appreciating craft, authenticity and heritage. Bhurgri’s first range, which is sold through the likes of curated store Akin Barber & Shop, has been a hit. As for his treasured Ministry Of Defence find, Bhurgri says the Cabot Watch Company watches found in there were Royal Navy issued, carrying the British Empire’s ‘Broad Arrow’ military marking on the back, as well as the dates, 1989 to 1990, tying them to the first Gulf War. “I spent 18 months seeking out parts to restore them one-by-one into working order but making sure to leave enough patina on them to ensure their battle worn history could still be seen,” he says. instagram.com/vintagewatchdubai

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A collection of stories from around the world

Magniﬁcent Sevens 84

The Last Train Brain Food 68 92 MAIN

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OS57_068-083 The Last Train.indd 70 10/22/15 3:19 PM With plans in place to modernise India’s railway, the classic journey through the subcontinent could soon be a thing of the past. We sent a writer to document the trials and tribulations of attempting to traverse one of the world’s most populous countries by train

olkata, midday. The yellow Hindustan Ambassador Missing a train in India is serous business and Howrah is an trundles forward a few metres, stops, forces its way into unforgiving place for people in a hurry. Every last Indian is here, the next lane and stops. No air-conditioning in these big a billion of them, I’m sure of it, each carrying every last one of old taxis. The windows are wound all the way down but their possessions. There’s no seat not sat on, no wall that isn’t Kthe air that fills the cab is humid, heavy with fumes, and carries being leaned against, scarcely an inch of floor-space free from prowling mosquitos. bags, cases, beat-up old trunks, cardboard boxes reinforced The taxi driver chews paan open-mouthed, the stimulant’s with sticky tape – by people themselves, lying down on blankets juices leaving dark red stains on his lips and teeth. The young they’ve spread out wherever they could find room. Bengali scowls at the traffic, rages about the stubborn jam The station holds within its walls, beneath its high ceilings, of cars, trucks, motorbikes, and the barefooted man pulling a India’s best and worst traits: wallahs, wheeler-dealers and rickshaw full of scrap metal. pickpockets, the showy rich, the dignified poor, those who This journey should’ve taken 20 minutes. We’ve been on stare without shame and those who are quick with a smile, the road an hour. Police pull us over to check the driver’s bureaucracy, hypocrisy, lunacy, barefoot beggars shaking a cup documents, so it takes another half an hour to get to where at well-heeled businessman, good food, weird food, dangerous we’re going‚ the biggest, busiest railway station in all of India, a food‚ and for me, the start of another long train ride across the huge 100-year-old red brick fortress known simply as Howrah. most fascinating, frustrating country in world. For the author Paul Theroux, trains are the only decent way I catch my train, just. The Shatabdi Express, its average speed to travel. It is, as he wrote in his mast famous work, The Great a leisurely 58km/h eased out of Howrah station. I stretch out in Railway Bazaar, “a far cry from the paralysis that afflicts the car my seat, in an air-conditioned bogie (carriage), with all of India passenger”. With this quote in my head, I pay the taxi driver, to watch through the window, and feel content to have found shake loose my passenger’s paralysis, and sprint into the station. some calm amid the chaos of this country.

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OS57_068-083 The Last Train.indd 71 10/22/15 3:19 PM The LasT Train

There are plans to modernise India’s railway. So with Theroux’s Manish worked on the travel desk in my hotel. He was book under my arm, knowing the kind of trip he took may soon unwilling to discuss so much as the weather without first sitting be a thing of the past, I had decided to spend six months touring me down and sending out into the street for tea from his the length and breadth of it, guided by one self-imposed rule: I wallah friend. I told him about my trouble buying train tickets. would travel only by train. “If a train is large and comfortable,” he Like his compatriots outside, he refused to accept this. But wrote, “you don’t even need a destination; a corner seat is enough, several days and countless cups of absurdly sweet chai later, we and you can be one of those travellers who stay in motion, were no further forward. So I arranged with Manish to hire a straddling the tracks, and never arrive or feel they ought to.” car and a driver, and to visit by road all the places in Rajasthan I I left home in January with one bag and a one-way ticket had intended to visit by rail. to Delhi, nothing more. Almost everything I knew about train In Udaipur, the lake city known as the Venice Of The East, I travel in India came from Theroux’s book‚ which he published boarded my first proper Indian train – a sleeper travelling the in 1975. The American spent four months travelling through 1,000km to Mumbai. “To understand the real India,” Theroux Europe, the Middle East, the Indian subcontinent and Southeast wrote, “the Indians say, you must go to the villages. But that is Asia. I intended to spend six months solely in India. The author not strictly true, because the Indians have carried their villages occasionally flew and took boats between countries. But I to the railway stations.” These words were illustrated perfectly wouldn’t leave the subcontinent until my visa ran out, so I by the sight of Udaipur City after dark. This little four-platform would definitely travel only by train. station looked like the set of an apocalypse movie, with the whole town waiting to be evacuated on a train that would never come. There were more people sleeping on the floor here than at Howrah, a station five times its size, giving the after most journeys i felt impression the evacuees had been waiting not hours, but days. Indians and tourists gave me warnings about train travel. i was finished with rail “The trains are delayed by days,” they said. “The trains are dirty. The trains are unsafe.” My train chugged to a stop in front of travel, but it wasn’t long me and I boarded the air-conditioned, two-tier class of bogie known as AC2. “Don’t accept food or drinks from strangers,” they said. “Don’t show your ticket to anyone but the inspector. before i was elbowing Don’t leave your bags unattended.” I boarded. The bogie was open-plan, with berths on one side of the aisle arranged my way to the front of a widthways in bays of four, and longways in bays of two on the other side of the aisle. ticket office queue again Three older ladies from Mumbai joined me in my berth, followed by a small army of porters carrying their luggage. In Delhi I couldn’t get a train. At least, not to anywhere I One of the ladies, the leader, asked in perfected English: wanted to go. I ended up spending a week in what was my “From which country do you come?” My answer, England, was least favourite city in India. But it was difficult to be bored in satisfactory. She smiled and said, “Nice country.” From this point the area I was staying, the notorious Paharganj. on I was spoken to and fussed over as if I were travelling with One night, walking along the street looking for a bar, a man my grandmother, mother and aunty. Before we’d even left the emerged from the shadows. “Hello, sir,” he said. I returned his station, I’d accepted crisps and water from them, shown them hello but didn’t stop. “How are you? Your country? Where you my ticket, and left them to mind my luggage while I wandered go? You want to buy a flute?” The hawker tried tirelessly to sell up and down the train. The ladies even arranged, and paid for, this flute, pursued me with the kind of dogged urgency that a restaurant to prepare and deliver breakfast, right to my bunk suggested I played the flute, was in the market for a new flute, when we stopped at a nearby station. and had showed keen interest in buying his particular flute. An attendant came around, dishing out sheets, pillows and That’s Paharganj. The craziest street in one of the craziest blankets. We drew the large curtain that covered our berth and cities in the world. A whirlwind of noise and colour, smells and I read for a while by the light above my bunk. Sleep came in shouts. Where four, five lanes of traffic drive up and down a fits and starts. Lying down, the train’s every rock and bounce is road wide enough for one. Where packs of stray dogs and exaggerated, so much so that it felt like a ship in stormy seas. herds of prying cows roam. Where a derelict mosque has I’d wake up from a doze certain we were about to capsize. reopened as an electrical goods shop. Where everyone wants Throughout the night, the train seemed to stop and remain to sell you something, and if they don’t have what you want stationary for long periods. Each time this happened I’d draw to buy, then they’ll find someone who does and pocket a back the small curtain that covered the window in my berth, commission for bringing you to them. Every time I stepped out usually revealing a dimly lit station – deserted but for a solitary of my hotel it was that way – like I was the first tourist in town figure, a silhouette on platform – never sure whether I was and the last potential buyer on earth. awake or dreaming.

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OS57_068-083 The Last Train.indd 72 10/22/15 3:19 PM The LasT Train

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The LasT Train

Theroux said Mumbai: “fulfils the big-city requirements of age, depth and, inspiring a chauvinism in its inhabitants, a threadbare metropolitan hauteur rivalled only by Kolkata”. This haughtiness is best seen in and around Kala Ghoda, an arty area whose colonial architecture looks all the better for being a little threadbare. But, for me, Kolkata is big-city India at its best – an old-world wonder with all the beautiful rundown buildings that go with it, where the iconic Hindustan Ambassadors taxis boss the roads until they’re engulfed by a passing herd of goats. My proposed route around India was what the guidebooks call The Grand Tour. Between Mumbai and Kolkata, it descended into The Grand Detour. There were many reasons for this. It’s not that easy to buy a train ticket in India, especially along the more popular routes. They’re often fully booked weeks, sometimes months in advance. My longest train journey was almost two days straight, but was enjoyable. The most unpleasant trip was the shortest. Three cramped hours sat on the floor outside the toilet in Sleeper Class, the cheapest, most notorious kind of carriage. After most trips, I felt I was finished with train travel. But it was never long before I was queuing again, elbowing my way to the front of the queue at a ticket office in some provincial train station, trying to book another seat. I also got a bit too comfortable in certain places. There were three lazy weeks in Goa, exploring the beaches of India’s smallest state on a beat-up old moped, drinking the local brew and eating red hot chicken xacuti, a curry full of Kashmiri chillies. I zigzagged and backtracked and went around in circles. I twice visited Kerala.

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Its endless rolling green tea gardens, around a village called Sengulam near the hill station Munnar. It was mesmerising. India’s hill stations are towns built at altitude by colonising sometimes i got a little Europeans to escape the heat. Perhaps the most famous of these is Darjeeling. The train trip I most looked forward to was along too comfortable... the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. This route along a narrow gauge is a world heritage site and goes from New Jalpaiguri up exploring goa on a beat- 2,100 metres of switchback mountain. But when I was in West Bengal, due to a landslide, the steam locomotive wasn’t running. up moped, i zigzagged I went to Darjeeling anyway. By car. Stand almost anywhere in that town, found up in the foothills of the Himalayas, and and backtracked and the view is sublime. On a clear day, I could see from my hotel window the world’s third-highest mountain, Kanchenjunga. I used the town as a base to explore the Singalila Ridge – a went around in circles trekking route that offers, to the early riser, views of Everest. Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi sees high-speed lines Back and forth I hiked across the border with Nepal, sleeping as being crucial to the country’s development. One proposal along the way in little lodges found in isolated farming villages. suggests building work on these lines could begin as early as I don’t claim to be an expert on India. But, whenever I met 2017. India has much to gain from modernising its railway. But and swapped recommendations with fellow travellers, I’d say it’ll lose something too. try Kochi during Biennale, its huge contemporary arts festival. I When I think of the subcontinent, I think of train travel. I would tell them to ignore the guidebooks and go to Bangalore spent almost a week in total riding India’s railways, travelling for its bookshops, for its nightlife. And I’d suggest they wander the better part of 10,000km. My best memories hang around without aim along the cluttered streets of Mysore and test their a handful of sunny afternoons. I’m drinking sweet chai out bartering skills at the loud and colourful Devaraja Market. of a paper cup, eating a vegetable samosa from a folded bit The truth, though, is that I left India with a list of places to of newspaper. A dapper old Indian man – there was one on visit far longer than one with which I arrived, and couldn’t be every train – stands over me going, “From which country do happier about it. you come?” He’s the one that spends the entire trip pacing

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on the train, the world flashes by in jump cuts: from lush farmland to barren wasteland, a one-bedroom hut to an eight-bedroom mansion

up and down the bogie, looking for a job to do, taking it upon homes, children playing cricket anywhere there’s room for a himself to tell each and every one of his fellow passengers game, big waves, big smiles, people getting on with it, hope and exactly how late the train is running, down to the minute, but despair, a better tomorrow. never revealing where he’s retrieving this information from. The train stops at a station with a name that’s a volley of “Nice country,” he’d say. “Accha, accha, accha,” his words of awkward syllables. The bogie grows loud. “Chai, chai, chai-mmm,” agreement when I spoke. shout the boarding chaiwallahs, carrying giant pots of tea. On this train, the world outside the window changes in “Paani, paani, paaniii” go the paaniwallahs, a bucket of bottled jump cuts: from lush green farmland to dry barren wasteland, water on each shoulder. There’s the rising chatter of voices the jungle, the desert, the sea, a one-room hut and an eight- speaking every one of India’s 800 languages. The train noises bedroom mansion, people wearing lungis to work the field, are equally memorising – buh-bump-bump, picking up speed, commuters wearing officewear to wait for local trains, the buh-bump-bump – and I feel truly like one of those travellers mountain range, the valley, the plains, passing through slums, life who doesn’t need a destination, one who straddles the tracks, at its toughest seen in snatches through windows in makeshift never arrives and never feels they ought to.

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OS57_068-083 The Last Train.indd 83 10/22/15 3:19 PM OS57_084-091 Magnificent Sevens.indd 84 10/22/15 3:21 PM OS57_084-091 Magnificent Sevens.indd 85 10/22/15 3:21 PM Sevens has long been considered the poor relation of rugby’s 15-a-side form. But with sides from all over the world competing at events such as the Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby Sevens, not to mention its Olympics bow under a year away, sevens is gaining some serious traction

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OS57_084-091 Magnificent Sevens.indd 86 10/22/15 3:21 PM ctober 9, 2009, is probably lights of major cities, sevens has a Native Constabulary, the game has the biggest moment in the rather more austere history, spanning become a national pastime. In 1977 O history of rugby sevens. over 130 years to the first match the country won the Hong Kong On a bright day in Copenhagen, the played by an amateur side from Sevens in only its second incarnation, International Olympic Committee Melrose, Scotland. It took another four beating Marlborough 28-18. Titles have (IOC) voted to include the sport decades for the sport to spread south continued to come the island nation’s in the Summer Games, with its first into England, and in 1926 a tournament way ever since, and players like Waisale appearance scheduled in Rio in 2016. was held in London for the first time. Serevi and Samisoni Viriviri have long While that moment was a The Hong Kong Sevens brought the wowed crowds with their dynamism. momentous day for the sport, for those game to a more international audience On the other end of the scale, who follow it around the world, it’s in 1976, and in 1999 the Sevens Series perhaps, is the USA, whose team clear that it has been a growing force was born. Not only did it give the big largely comprises players who found for many years, not least because of the Test-playing nations a chance to hone rugby through American football, one World Rugby Sevens Series – whose their skills and fitness – but it also of half a dozen national sports still opening tournament just happens to introduced countries not-so-acquainted more popular. be next month in Dubai.The series with the 15-a-side version. Since then, The UAE’s own ambitions, its then globe hops to nine other locations sevens has been played in all corners federation’s secretary general Qais Al including Vancouver, Hong Kong and of the world, from Kenya and the Cook Dhalai admits, will be “on the pitch, Singapore. It is the 17th edition of the Islands to Georgia, Russia, Brazil and rather than the scoreboard”. But the league and, crucially, the last before even the Philippines. Emirates are another nation whose sevens rugby takes its Olympics bow. In Fiji, where rugby is believed to commitment to sevens rugby has However, far from Olympic glamour have first been played in 1884, by flourished in recent years. Since 2011 or exciting events held in the bright local and European soldiers of the it has had a presence at the Dubai

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OS57_084-091 Magnificent Sevens.indd 87 10/22/15 3:21 PM sharjah museums ad 2.pdf 1 4/23/15 3:49 PM

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tournament, which will continue to Exiles Rugby Stadium in the historic Creek Sevens has seen rugby embraced by many grow after sevens’ Olympics designation. area. Today everything is bigger and better. nations outside of the traditional powerhouses. “Rugby is new to Emiratis so the “It has become an ambassadorial event sevens style of coaching is conducive for Dubai,” Al Dhalai says. “Twenty-eight teams have also been invited to compete, to the growth and development of the per cent of people who visit now come which Kilelea hopes will, alongside the Emirati player,” Al Dhalai adds. “We are from outside the country.” women’s rugby, attract more female fans. now in a position to field a competitive In 2015, 100,000 people will visit the “The situation now is that it’s more than sevens side as well as enter a regular 15s tournament, which from 2008 has been just rugby,” he says. “It’s a joyous event. side into our tier-three domestic division.” held at The Sevens stadium – purpose-built People just love the atmosphere and This year is the Dubai Sevens’ 46th for the event. Kilelea and his team have there’s something for everyone.” year. But its biggest changes have come strived to make the event more family- The main event is, however, the in the past two decades, as Dubai has friendly throughout the years: this edition rugby. This year more than 430 teams blossomed into a full-fledged global boasts live music, crèches, competitions requested to fill the 286 invitation spots destination. When Donal Kilelea joined and 15 food and drinks vendors. available, breaking all previous records. the Dubai Sevens organisation team in There are also a wide array of children’s The women’s game will play a vital role, 2003, it was a very different affair. The rugby tournaments, an under-sevens with 12 teams competing. tournament welcomed just 20 to 25,000 club – Sabaa – and a teen zone. Perhaps Sevens was once considered a people across its three days, at the small unusually, netball has a big focus and 32 training tool for those trying to make it

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in the 15-a-side game. No longer. The The IOC decision, adds Burwell, has them, warns Burwell, “Players will need lack of 15-a-side rugby’s heavyweight “changed and revolutionalised” the time to adjust, to get to the relevant forwards means players must be nimble sport, but in different ways for different fitness levels and understand the as well as strong. The way the game countries. “The fact that South Korea, structures so that their obvious quality is played, too, has changed wildly – Russia, China and USA now have can then shine through. although, as UR7s (Ultimate Rugby full-time rugby sevens programmes “Without this time and exposure to Sevens) CEO and coach Tom Burwell is something that no one would have the sport they’re not guaranteed to be a says, the aim is ultimately the same. thought possible 10 years ago,” he success,” he adds. “It’s for this reason that “It’s still about the creation and says. “The fact that Kenya, Japan and the likes of Sonny Bill Williams have signed exploitation of space on a rugby field,” Portugal would be competing at the to play with New Zealand for the whole he says. “The major differences that same table as the big boys of England, of the 2015/16 season and not just the have a huge impact on this are the New Zealand and Australia is equally Olympics, as it has been discussed with structured defences, fitness levels and staggering, but the shorter form of the other players around the world.” emphasis spent on areas as set piece game has made this possible.” However these high-profile and restart, which comes from coaches The IOC verdict has also helped transplants perform, it’s clear that having full-time squads rather than, as it sevens attract bigger stars. New sevens rugby is on an upward trajectory. was previously, players meeting the day Zealand’s Sonny Bill Williams and With events like the Dubai Sevens before the game.” Australian Quaid Cooper are two big grabbing ever-bigger crowds, the sport names that have been tempted to the may not be considered 15-a-side’s The big sides still dominate and format by the chance of a medal. But poorer cousin for very much longer. South Africa won last year’s tournament sevens will not be a walk in the park for dubairugby7s.com

If you’re a rugby fan, head to Sport TV on ice Digital Widescreen. Rugby programmes are on channels 1224 and 1225.

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OS57_084-091 Magnificent Sevens.indd 91 10/22/15 3:21 PM OS57_092-101 Brain Food.indd 92 10/22/15 3:21 PM OS57_092-101 Brain Food.indd 93 10/22/15 3:21 PM WHAT IF WE TOLD YOU THAT THE FLAVOUR OF YOUR FOOD HAD MORE TO DO WITH YOUR SENSE OF SMELL THAN WHAT WAS GOING ON IN YOUR MOUTH? WHAT IF WE SAID THAT, IN THE FUTURE, EATING OUT WOULD BE A FULLY IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCE INVOLVING FOOD THAT HAS NEVER TASTED SO GOOD? THE FUTURE IS HERE AND IT HAS A GRIP ON YOUR SENSES WORDS: MARK JOHANSON ILLUSTRATIONS: KYLE SMART

ry a quick experiment the next flavour – namely which bits of our brains In fact, research shows that smell may time a member of cabin crew light up when we’re tasting something,” account for as much as 80 to 90 per cent T drops by with food or drink. It’s explains Oxford professor Charles of what we perceive as flavour. Anyone nothing too demanding. Just take a bite Spence, author of The Perfect Meal. who’s ever had a cold and couldn’t or sip, think about how it tastes, then “The hope is that, by understanding the stomach the taste of their food already plug in your headphones and tune in to brain mechanisms underpinning how knows this, though they might not have one of the classical or jazz music stations. we experience flavours, we can better realised it at the time. What sort of sounds do you hear? design foods and beverages.” What it is that Spence is trying to Is it an upbeat and higher-pitched song Spence is kind of like the Yoda of discover is how various stimuli play a role with, say, a twinkling piano or chimes? If neurogastronomy. His Crossmodal in our dining experience. And his lab is so, you may find that your food or drink Research Laboratory is full of gizmos kind of like a kitchen for mad scientists. tastes slightly sweeter than before. But like aroma machines and taste pumps, “Imagine somebody comes in to the maybe it’s a slower and lower-pitched and he dishes out new studies at a lab,” he says, describing a typical day song you’re listening to, like brassy jazz dizzying rate that highlight the ways in at the office. “It’s a dark, silent room, or bass-heavy blues. These sounds might which “off plate” elements impact our maybe in a soundproof booth, and they bring out the bitter and umami tastes. perceptions of flavour. have a couple of tubes just underneath Researchers call this subtle change Up until recently food was discussed their nostrils and a couple of tubes lying in flavour perception “sonic seasoning,” almost exclusively in terms of taste. But on top of their tongue. We can deliver and it’s an important element within according to Spence, eating is actually one specific smells and specific tastes at the emerging field of research known of the most multisensory experiences we the same time, or different times, or as neurogastronomy. all have on a daily basis. Food isn’t just matching combinations of smell and “Neurogastronomy is the name given something we taste; it’s something we taste like sweetness on the tongue and to studies that look at the brain on touch, see, hear, and, above all else, smell. strawberry to the nose, or mismatching

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OS57_092-101 Brain Food.indd 95 10/22/15 3:21 PM FOOD IS ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY DISCUSSED IN TERMS OF TASTE, BUT EATING IS ONE OF THE MOST MULTISENSORY EXPERIENCES WE HAVE

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combinations like the smell of chicken stock and a sweet taste.” Spence gets his subjects to respond and differentiate what they’re perceiving: How intense is it? How much do they like it? What shape are they thinking of at any given moment? If he plays music, can he enhance the experience of taste? It all might sound a bit crazy, but new insights into our multisensory perception of flavour have already had wide- sweeping impacts on the products we consume. Have you noticed that several of your favourite chocolate bars recently hit the shelves with a “new shape”? That’s because a study sponsored by Nestlé found that curves – as opposed to straight lines – enhance in-mouth perceptions of melting. Nestlé boils it down to something called “mouth geometry”: A curved shape is simply a better fit for your oral cavity. Other companies, like Unilever, are experimenting with reducing the sodium content of their food products while still maintaining the same salty taste by adding high levels of savoury aromas. Using 60 test subjects and two samples of beef bouillon, researchers found that a combination of potassium-based salt replacers and savoury aromas could compensate for a 30 per cent reduction of sodium without any noticeable change in the flavour profile. Companies have also begun enhancing their products by offering sensory apps. Take Häagen-Dazs, for example. It recently released a ‘Concerto App’ that lets consumers scan a QR code on each ice cream carton to enjoy a private, two-minute concerto. The brand believes this virtual-reality showcase – a fiddler literally pops up from the carton top when viewed through your phone – will give the ice cream enough time to temper so that it’s at an ideal consistency when eaten. Rival Ben & Jerry’s, meanwhile, is rumoured to be developing a soundtrack to pair with its flavours. Perhaps the most exiting practical application of this research in neurogastronomy (and the closely related field of gastrophysics) is how new ideas are filtering down into restaurant kitchens around the globe.

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“There are many chefs who can look Fantasy Food at the science and turn it into wonderful, creative, talked about, stimulating Five of the world’s best multisensory eating experiences experiences,” Spence said. “They will take an idea, put it on the menu, try it out, and you have the perfect environment to bring something away from the lab. You have real diners paying real money for real experiences.” Ultraviolet portions of hot and iced tea that don’t blend Spence believes there’s a new Ultraviolet is Shanghai’s most mysterious or Blumenthal’s signature Sound Of The generation of chefs right now who, for restaurant (it has no postal address) and Sea, which comes with an iPod tucked into the first time in history, are “thinking the culmination of 15 years of meticulous a conch shell to enhance the salinity of the about the minds of their diners and not planning from French chef Paul Pairet. Diners seafood it’s paired with. just about the sourcing, preparation and meet at an agreed spot and are ushered to thefatduck.co.uk presentation of the food on the plate”. a table in a bare-bones room nearby with One of his early collaborators was chef no décor whatsoever. As the 20-course Heston Blumenthal, whose three Michelin- meal begins, however, they find themselves starred restaurant, The Fat Duck, is located completely bombarded with stimulation, in the British village of Bray. Exploring from 360-degree wall projections to scent natural affinities between taste and sound, diffusers and mood lighting. The immersive alinea the pair discovered in 2007 that diners dining experience is choreographed in Chef Grant Achatz has brought the culinary perceive seafood as stronger and saltier a way that’s said to enhance the flavour carnival to Chicago with his inventive and when accompanied with the sounds perceptions of each dish. wildly acclaimed restaurant Alinea. From of the ocean – even if those seagull uvbypp.cc surprising scents to culinary pyrotechnics squawks and pounding waves emanated and mood-altering lights, dining at Alinea from a speaker. A dish resulting from the is nothing short of an adventure for the collaboration, called Sound Of The Sea, five senses. One of the most theatrical has became one of Blumenthal’s signature dishes has to be the Green Apple Balloon. items: A sculptural plate of seafood, tickets Bar This edible inflatable is made from apple seaweed and panko “sand” that comes The name is like a cruel joke because taffy that’s been puffed up with helium with an iPod tucked into a conch shell. tickets to Barcelona’s famed Tickets Bar and attached to an “apple leather” string. “Now more than ever the line are few and far between. But those who Guests pop the balloon to enjoy flavours between food and science is being do secure a spot (generally two months lighter than air. blurred,” Blumenthal explains. “Our in advance) can expect everything from alinearestaurant.com senses are so entangled and intertwined exploding olives to edible trees made of that the possibilities of what we can cotton candy in this eclectic tapas bar create are endless… I think we almost from Ferran Adrià, of El Bulli fame, and need to go back to the basics, examining his brother, Albert. Tickets draws equal how our primal senses react to the inspiration from the theatre and the circus, world around us to harness this in our with dishes that dabble in sensory-altering sUBlimotion enjoyment of food.” magic of the mind. Travel around the world, from the Spanish Sound Of The Sea was developed in ticketsbar.es island of Ibiza to the bottom of the ocean the early days of multisensory dining, a and the depths of outer space, on this movement that has since ballooned in 20-course culinary journey from Michelin- size and scope, birthing new restaurants stared chef Paco Roncero. Just 12 diners at akin to culinary funhouses. International a time are allowed into Sublimotion’s high- food and restaurant consultants Baum tech room (which is encased in ever-shifting + Whiteman called multisensory the Fat dUck screens) to witness the happy marriage of dining one of the 11 hottest food and Heston Blumenthal was at the forefront of visual arts, haut cuisine and virtual reality beverage trends for 2015, and new neurogastronomy before the science even courtesy of the latest wearable technology offerings include Ultraviolet In Shanghai had a name, and his iconic restaurant, The from Samsung. Various stimuli are meant or Sublimotion In Ibiza. Both invite Fat Duck, will return to the British village to trick the mind and enhance all five diners to eat multicourse meals in a of Bray later this year after a six-month senses for a greater appreciation of the highly stylised environment where lights, stint at Melbourne’s Crown Towers hotel. multisensory perceptions of taste. sounds, temperatures and aromas are Expect concoctions like a cup with equal sublimotionibiza.com

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Better Care is now Closer to your Heart

American Hospital Clinics DubaiAmerican Media Hospital City Clinics - Dubai Media City Location Map

The new American Hospital Clinics based in Dubai Media City Dubai Pearl Abdullah Taryam Street offers close and convenient access to high quality primary care for adults and children, with Western board certified specialists Dubai Media City for patients in the nearby residential areas as well as access to DMC Al Sofouh

the American Hospital Dubai’s full range of specialty services Dubai Media City Hessa Street Hessa and diagnostics at the main hospital campus. Business DU Gloria Central Bldg. Towers Hotel The American Hospital’s new Dubai Media City Clinics is based From Sharjah on the ground floor of the Business Central Towers, Sheikh Sheikh Zayed Road From Abu Dhabi Zayed Road. Dubai Internet City Metro Station

Emirates Golf Glub The Greens Tecom Al Barsha

Clinic Timings Saturday - Thursday

Primary Care Clinic 9:00 am - 9:00 pm

From Al Khail Road From Pediatrics Clinic 9:00 am - 6:00 pm Coordinates 25°06'02.3"N 55°10'10.7"E This map is approximate and is not to scale

For appointments, please call +971 4 377 5500 or visit www.ahdubai.com MOH GS36487

American Hospital Clinics accepts most major health insurance plans, please call (+971) 800 5500 If you’re interested in food and cooking check out Lifestyle TV on ice Digital Widescreen for shows like Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations and episodes of top shows from Food Network.

RESEARCH SHOWS THAT SMELL MAY ACCOUNT FOR AS MUCH AS 80 TO 90 PER CENT OF WHAT WE PERCEIVE AS FLAVOUR

ever-shifting and meticulously controlled trend where chefs put all of the to tease out certain flavours. ingredients on one side of the pate and Other restaurants have used the leave the rest of the surface blank. The food-fixated brainiac also hopes research in neurogastronomy in subtler Spence hopes that the best of what new insights into our multisensory ways, crafting soundscapes with synesthetic works at the lab, the public experiments perception of flavour will percolate down matches between taste and music or using and these exclusive restaurants will to everywhere from hospital dining science to discover the most appealing birth new ideas in the near future, like rooms to airline cabins, where pressure ways of plating a dish. The latter is the multisensory cinemas or restaurants and engine noise can dull the senses. subject of an exhibit at the London Science where portable devices aren’t a nuisance, Just imagine if on your next flight you Museum, where Spence teamed up with but rather wholly integrated into the had a curated soundtrack to add some several up-and-coming chefs to see if dining experience through apps or sonic seasoning to your meal, or an aroma the way they intuitively plate their dishes iPad “lightplates” (already available at stick to bring out the sweet and salty matches up with how everyday museum- Schauenstein Schloss in Switzerland). “No elements, which are most affected by goers would want them. matter how great the food is,” he explains, altitude. This, Spence believes, is the future One interesting find: Most people “people will appreciate it that much more of dining, where taste is only the beginning abhor asymmetrical plating, a current if everything else around is optimised.” and flavour is a multisensory mind game.

NOW DO THIS AT HOME PLAY WITH LIGHT How to enhance your PLAY WITH PLATES Purchase a multicoloured LED light (with eating experience At your next dinner party try serving the same remote control), plug it in above your dinner dessert to your guests on vastly different table, and experiment with how different plates. Experiments conducted at El Bulli’s test settings affect the flavours of your food. kitchen in Spain found that diners perceived According to Spence, red lighting can bring strawberry mousse served on a white plate out fruitiness or sweetness, while a green as sweeter than the same dessert served on light can bring out sour and fresh notes. Trying a black plate. Subsequent research found that to loose weight? Recent research from the round plates accentuate sweetness, while University Of Arkansas shows that a blue light heavier plates enhance perceptions of flavour. may trick you into eating less. PLAY WITH SMELL The majority of what we think of as taste actually comes from our nose. One easy way to enhance the smell of a dish at home is to prepare it right at the table. You could, for PLAY WITH CUTLERY example, cook fish or meat in a smoker bag Speaking of heavy plates – heavy cutlery can PLAY WITH SHAPE and slice that bag open right in front of your also enhance diners’ perceptions of flavour. Shape is one of the most overlooked elements family or friends so the aromas stay at the A team from Spence’s Crossmodal Research of flavour, but it can be particularly important table. You can also play with the cutlery by Laboratory conducted a large-scale dining when it comes to preparing desserts. The wrapping various herbs around the handle experiment at a Scottish restaurant earlier Crossmodal Research Laboratory found of a fork and seeing how those smells affect this year and found that diners who ate with that sweetness is matched with roundness, the taste of the food. heavy cutlery were willing to pay 15 per cent bitterness is matched with angularity, and sour more for their food than those who ate with the tastes tend to be angular and asymmetrical. restaurant’s normal, lighter utensils.

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Essential news and information from Emirates

Desert fun in Dubai 104

Inside Emirates Route Map 110 122 BRIEFING

OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 103 10/22/15 3:22 PM EmiratE s nE ws Food, Fat bikEs and Fun in dubai

Arabian Adventures, the region’s for a traditional Emirati meal with Arabic Bikes. Fat bikes are built with oversized leading destination management coffee and dessert. tyres to help riders glide through soft company, has announced new tours Meanwhile, if you’d like a little more terrain like sand and are growing in from November 1 that boast unique adventure, you could try Desert Dune popularity around the world. Be part experiences allowing you to enjoy the Buggies. This bucket-list adventure sees of an exclusive experience with the city in style. you drive across the sand dunes in only company in Dubai to offer them If you try Flavours of Dubai you’ll brand-new fully automatic, four-seater as part of a desert safari package. As learn more about the culture and off-road dune buggies. Follow your guide well as a dune drive through the Desert heritage of the Middle East by way of or take time to blaze your own trail, but Conservation Reserve and fat bikes, fantastic local food. Enjoy a traditional either way be sure to stop for photo you’ll be able to try sandboarding and Arabic fruit cocktail, a taste of Turkish ice opportunities along the way. enjoy a picnic breakfast. To make a cream and Lebanese bites. End the day Finally, if extreme is definitely your booking call +9714-303-4888 or visit with a trip to Café Bateel in Jumeirah, thing, try Desert Dune Drive with Fat arabian-adventures.com EmiratEs ExtEnds HamburgEr sV sponsorsHip Emirates has announced the renewal of its sponsorship agreement with Hamburger SV for another three seasons until June 2019, highlighting its ongoing commitment to Germany and to football around the world. The partnership started with the 2006-07 season and the airline is the most longstanding jersey sponsor in the club's illustrious history. In addition to being the main shirt sponsor, the sponsorship includes prominent branding of the distinctive Fly Emirates at the Volksparkstadion, the home of HSV, as well as promotional and hospitality rights. Emirates also remains partner in the 'Der Hamburger Weg' initiative. “Today’s announcement is not just about sports, it is also an Emirates’ investment in Germany,” said Boutros Boutros, Emirates’ Divisional Senior Vice President Corporate Communications, Marketing & Brand. “Since we started flying from Dubai to Germany in 1987, we have experienced a robust demand for our daily flight and a constant loyalty from our passengers. Today, we offer nine daily nonstop flights from four German gateways continuously increasing the mutually beneficial trade, tourism and investment our flights brings to the country”, he added. Emirates is a long-standing supporter of football with partnerships across Europe including AC Milan, Arsenal FC, Olympiacos, Paris Saint-Germain, Real Madrid and SL Benfica.

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 104 10/22/15 3:22 PM 2003519 Etisalat Visitor Line Openskies Burj Khalifa A Final.indd 1 7/28/15 4:53 PM EmiratE s nE ws emirates introDuces ‘the icon collection’ Emirates’ Official Store has unveiled a new apparel, home, and travel collection in collaboration with Hatty Pedder, a renowned Dubai-based British artist and fashion illustrator. ‘The Icon Collection’ is a unique interpretation of the globally recognisable Emirates cabin crew and their jet-setting lifestyles. The collection includes stylish floaty tops and sweatshirts that appeal to all ages, handbags and luggage, and a sophisticated range of home items. Items in the collection retail from 35 AED to 400 AED, and are available at the Emirates Official Store at The Dubai Mall (Ground level, The Village) and at all other stores in Dubai and Abu Dhabi. The collection is also available at emiratesofficialstore.com

What was your favourite What adventurous activity are you Be There in aspect of New Zealand aside from most looking forward to? the activities? Base-jumping ranks among the most New Zealand I enjoyed the stop by the sheep farm. I thrilling activities being enjoyed all over the was hoping to experience wool shearing, world. I hope to wear the wingsuit and Have you seen Rahed’s thrill-seeking but it wasn’t the season for that. I enjoyed attempt it at least once. adventures? He’s one of seven chasing the sheep trying to feed them the Emirates Globalistas showing you hay I was given by the farmer. new experiences around the world. Follow their stories and be inspired What was your favourite to Be There yourself experience overall? The heli-boarding, for sure. As a little kid I used to follow and watch all the professional snowboarders reaching untouched mountain peaks by helicopters and riding their snowboards down the snowy fresh tracks. I must say doing that myself was definitely a dream come true. What’s your advice for anyone To follow Rahed and plan your adventure travelling to New Zealand? go to emirates.com/BeThere or follow Travel the country in a campervan. The #BeingThere experience is so liberating and exciting Where do you get your sense at the same time. Secondly, get fit before of adventure? landing in New Zealand, as the amount From the city of Beirut where I grew up, of outdoor activities you can enjoy is Watch the Be There Travel Series cycling and skateboarding the city streets in endless. Lastly be prepared to meet the on ice Digital Widescreen. Go to summer and snowboarding the country’s friendliest people who will welcome you Lifestyle TV or choose channel 1292 beautiful snowy slopes in winter. with genuine smiles.

Don't miss your flight get to your Please make sure you get to your boarding gate on time. Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and gate on time gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 106 10/22/15 3:22 PM THE BiggEsT parTy on THE planET jusT goT a wHolE loT BiggEr...... anD you arE on THE guEsT lisT!

Tournament Sponsor

#EVERYBODYPLAY

R7_260hx195w_ mm_Open_Skies_AD_20_10_2015.indd 1 10/20/15 5:09 PM news

the pangolin CRiSiS

The pangolin, also known as a scaly anteater, is covered in hard plate-like scales. But demand for their meat and scales, is seeing these unique African creatures being hunted to extinction. Emirates is supporting United for Wildlife, an organisation working to fight against poaching. Learn more about United for Wildlife on channel 1502 on ice Digital Widescreen

asian pangolin •Manis pentadactyla (Chinese Pangolin) – Critically Endangered

african •Manis javanica pangolin (Sunda or Malayan Pangolin) – Critically Endangered •Smutsia temminckii (Cape or Temminck’s ground •Manis culionensis Pangolin) – Vulnerable (Philippine Pangolin) – Endangered •Smutsia gigantea (Giant ground Pangolin) •Manis crassicaudata – Vulnerable (Indian or Thick-tailed Pangolin) – Endangered •phataginus tricuspis (Tree or African White-bellied Pangolin) – Vulnerable

•Uromanis tetradactyla (Long-tailed or Black-bellied Pangolin) – Vulnerable

For more on wildlife and conservation, visit Wildlife TV for a collection of award-winning documentaries including Attenborough’s Big Birds and top shows from Animal Planet. Channels 1240 to 1251 on ice Digital Widescreen INFOGRAH IC : JOHN MARSLAND SOURCE WWF

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 108 10/22/15 3:22 PM Your home in Dubai

• Located in the heart of Dubai • Opposite Metro Station • Walking distance to Burj Khalifa, world’s tallest skyscraper • Dubai Airport - 15 min • Abu Dhabi Airport - 45 min • Walking distance to shopping malls • Close to Business Hubs (DIFC and DWTC) • Spa and Outdoor Swimming Pool

Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O Box 116957 Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 323 0000 | Fax: +971 4 323 0003 www.emiratesgrandhotel.com

EGH Open Skies Ad 195x 260mm Apr 2014.indd 1 20/04/2014 15:47 InsI de emI rates what a journey Milestones that have seen Emirates become a truly global leader

1985 DXB KHI EK600 departs Dubai International for Karachi, its first commercial flight. 1987 Emirates takes delivery of its first bought aircraft, an airbus 310. The airbus a310-300 is designed to Emirates specifications. 1991 DXB LHR Service begins to the busiest internationalhub in the world – London Heathrow. 1992 Emirates begins flights to Charles de Gaulle in Paris. 1996 Emirates takes delivery of its first Boeing 777-200 and becomes the first airline to show live footage of take-off and landing on its in-flight entertainment system. The B777-200’s maiden flight is to London Heathrow. 2000 Emirates becomes the first airline to sign up for the airbus a380 when it orders seven, with an option on five more, at the Farnborough Air Show.

A daily service from Dubai to Sydney commences on the first A340-500 to join the fleet, DXB cDg 2003 which was the maiden flight for the airline’s industry leading First Class suites. The A340-500 features ice , its game-changing in-flight entertainment system – including 500 channels in all classes, and every seat is equipped with a phone.

Emirates makes its first flight to New York’s JFK Airport, its first destination in the United States. DXB JFK A £100 million deal with arsenal Football Club is signed, which includes naming rights to its new stadium for 15 years and shirt sponsorship for eight years, starting from the 2006/07 season.

Emirates is visible across three world cups – the FIFA World Cup in Brazil, the ICC Cricket World Cup in Australia, and the Dubai World Cup.

INFOGRApHIc: SARA RAFFAGHEllO Emirates celebrates a milestone in its employee history, with its cabin crew team now totalling 20,000 staff. Emirates signs an historic $9.2 Billion order with Rolls-Royce for 200 A380 engines.

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 110 10/22/15 3:22 PM InsI de emI rates

Emirates takes delivery of its first Boeing 777-200 and becomes the first airline to show live footage of take-off and landing on its in-flight entertainment system. The B777-200’s maiden flight is to London Heathrow.

Emirates becomes the first airline to sign up for the airbus a380 when it orders seven, with an option on five more, at the Farnborough Air Show.

The A340-500 features ice , its game-changing in-flight entertainment system – including 500 channels in all classes, and every seat is equipped with a phone. 2004 A £100 million deal with arsenal Football Club is signed, which includes naming rights to its new stadium for 15 years and shirt sponsorship for eight years, starting from the 2006/07 season.

2007 In the same year, Emirates reaches six continents with the launch of services to Sao Paulo, Brazil. Emirates stuns the world by signing up for 120 Airbus A350s, 11 A380s and 12 Boeing 777-330ERs, worth an estimated $34.9 billion at the Dubai Air Show. 2011 Emirates places the largest single order in Boeing’s history – 50 777-300 ER aircraft, worth $18 billion in list price. The order also includes 20 777-300 ER options valued at US$ 8 billion. 2012 Emirates launches its first social media platform on Facebook followed by Google +. 2013 Emirates rewrites aviation history with an order for 200 aircraft – 150 Boeing 777Xs and 50 A380s. At US$99 billion, it is, at the time, the largest order in civil aviation history. 2014 Emirates is visible across three world cups – the FIFA World Cup in Brazil, the ICC Cricket World Cup in Australia, and the Dubai World Cup.

Emirates celebrates a milestone in its employee history, with its cabin crew team now totalling 20,000 staff. Emirates signs an historic $9.2 Billion order with Rolls-Royce for 200 A380 engines. 2015

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 111 10/22/15 3:22 PM Destination

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 112 10/22/15 3:23 PM DESTINATION

COPENHAGEN

Emirates will serve the Danish capital with an A380 from December 1, so enjoy our guide to one of Europe’s great cities

Cutting-edge fashion, razor-sharp design and a culinary scene at historical and cultural attractions. As a royal city of almost a the forefront of world gastronomy – for many Copenhagen is the millennia, fairy-tale castles and cobbled streets are resplendent, trendiest city in Europe. as are impressive museums and galleries. Denmark's National The residents, who dress down to go out, create a vibrant Museum is deﬁnitely worth your time, providing a fantastic atmosphere throughout the centre of the city, but those who want overview of the country’s rich history. to party a little harder head to the Kødbyen meat packing district, Perhaps the most important development has been the arrival where clubs and bars entertain throughout the night. of better mid-range and budget accommodation options. The While the city’s cool credentials are gaining headlines in style many diverse delights of Copenhagen are now far more accessible magazines the world over, Copenhagen has an abundance of so there is no excuse not to explore this superb city.

EAT STAY DO EMIRATES

GERANIUM GENERATOR VISIT TIVOLI GARDENS STAFF Headed by the exceptional HOSTEL COPENHAGEN One of the oldest theme parks Rasmus Kofoed, Geranium boasts Cool, spacious and cheap, the in the world and beautiful TIPS two Michelin stars. This is serious Generator Hostels provide a gardens combine to create a food and the restaurant aims place to lay your head and hang tourist hotspot in Copenhagen. to bring clarity and diversity to out in central locations without If the wooden rollercoaster its culinary creations. The whole the cost. WiFi, pool table and isn’t for you, head back at night experience from the service to other amusements entertain, when the beautiful lighting the plating to the food will leave but expect the hustle and bustle and attractions make for an CAFE CULTURE a lasting impression. associated with groups travelling. entertaining and engaging stroll. "My favourite place to geranium.dk generatorhostels.com tivoli.dk eat is Café Victor on the famous Stroeget Street. Get the seafood NOMA NIMB HOTEL HANG OUT IN NYHAVN and steak." If you are one of the lucky ones Situated in the famous Tivoli A former busy commercial port, Marco to secure a reservation at the Gardens, the location couldn’t Nyhavn is now a picturesque Mohabbat world’s best restaurant, a table be better. Stunning design and place to unwind with a leisurely Cabin Crew at one of the most inﬂuential an impeccable sense of service walk and a trip to a cosy eateries of the last hundred combine to provide a truly restaurant or bar. The colourful years awaits. Expect seasonal satisfying stay. After breakfast houses, so synonymous with foraged food, groundbreaking head back to your balcony and the city, have also played host to style and service at comes in at watch the crowds make their some of the country’s greatest a whole new level. way around the gardens. artists as well as the writer Hans noma.dk hotel.nimb.dk Christian Andersen.

AMASS HOTEL CPH LIVING TOUR THE CASTLES BE SURE TO Amass is firmly on the foodie’s For a truly unique stay head to With its rich royal history there SHOP tour of the city. Former Noma the converted barge that is Hotel are plenty of stunning castles "Ther are great souvenir options in Copenhagen. chef Matthew Orlando is at CPH Living. Clean and simple and palaces to enjoy across Buy a Viking hat, or the helm and uses ingredients rooms boast views over the Copenhagen and beyond. Try go for some delicious from the restaurant’s own water in the centre of the city. the spectacular royal hermitage Anton Berg chocolates." onsite garden. Feeling sociable? The rooftop terrace is the place Rosenborg Castle or head to Kennet Try the communal dining table to relax with a beverage and Kronborg Castle, one of the Jakobsen experience. watch the city come alive. finest Renaissance buildings of its First Officer amassrestaurant.com cphliving.com type in the world.

Emirates flight EK 151 leaves Dubai at 08:20am and arrives in Copenhagen at 12:20pm. The return flight EK 152 departs Copenhagen at 2:20pm and arrives in Dubai at 11:35pm the same day.

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 113 10/22/15 3:23 PM COMFORT

WELLNESS IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

SMART TRAVELLER

DRINK PLENTY TRAVEL LIGHTLY WEAR GLASSES USE SKIN KEEP MOVING MAKE OF WATER Carry only the Cabin air is MOISTURISER Exercise your lower YOURSELF Rehydrate with essential items that drier than normal, Apply a good legs and calf muscles. COMFORTABLE water or juices you will need during therefore swap quality moisturiser This encourages Loosen clothing, frequently. Drink your ﬂight. your contact lenses to ensure your skin blood ﬂow. remove jacket tea and coffee in for glasses. doesn’t dry out. and avoid anything moderation. pressing against your body.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY AT THE AIRPORT DURING THE FLIGHT WHEN YOU ARRIVE Consult your doctor Allow yourself plenty of time Chewing and swallowing Try some light exercise, before travelling if you for check-in. will help equalise your ear or read if you can’t sleep have any medical concerns Avoid carrying heavy bags pressure during ascent after arrival. about making a long through the airport and and descent. journey, or if you suffer onto the ﬂight as this can Babies and young from a respiratory or place the body under passengers may suffer cardiovascular condition. considerable stress. more acutely with popping Plan for the destination – Once through to ears, therefore consider will you need any vaccinations departures try and relax as providing a dummy. or special medications? much as possible. Get as comfortable as Get a good night’s rest possible when resting and before the ﬂight. turn frequently. Eat lightly and sensibly. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 114 10/22/15 3:23 PM

Visas, quick connect Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.

CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA.

The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta

nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr programmE.

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 116 10/22/15 3:23 PM This image is for advertising purposes. MOH NV18895-30.3.16

INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE SERVICES AT YOUR DOORSTEP

MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES: • Mediclinic Welcare Hospital • Mediclinic City Hospital • Mediclinic Dubai Mall • Mediclinic Ibn Battuta • Mediclinic Meadows • Mediclinic Arabian Ranches • Mediclinic Mirdif • Mediclinic Al Qusais • Mediclinic Beach Road • Mediclinic Al Sufouh • Mediclinic Corniche • Mediclinic Al Hili

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST.

UAE • SOUTH AFRICA • NAMIBIA • SWITZERLAND www.mediclinic.ae & quarantine information Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. US Customs and Border Protection Agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow theSe StePS:

1 2 3 4

have your boarding card or You’ll be given a Quick After passport clearance, If your bag is tagged to your ticket for your connecting flight Connect card. Continue to the claim your baggage and clear final destination, hand it to ready for the ground staff as Quick Connect queue in the US customs, regardless of your emirates staff at the transfer you exit. Arrivals hall. final destination. counter for your onward flight.

quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left on board. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items. You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if:

• you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock

the counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer.

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 118 10/22/15 3:23 PM calethon.pdf 1 10/22/15 6:49 PM

CMY

Calethon Construction, present in the Middle East and especially in Iraq for nearly twenty years, specialises in the provision of a multitude of services to the Oil & Gas industry.

Mechanical, Electrical and Instrumentation installation for the Petrochemical & Processing industry

• Cable pulling & Installation • Cable Termination & Glanding • Piping fabrication and installation • Non-destructive Testing, Hydro-testing & Radioactive Testing • Instrumentation installation Testing • Tubing Installation • Hot-works in Brownﬁelds • FOC Cable installation

Large scale Civil Works including but not limited to:

• Terrain Excavation, grading, leveling & compaction • Road construction • Building construction, both traditional & Pre-engineered • EPC Large scale Life Support Facilities • Hydraulic and Electrical distribution networks installation

CALETHON CONSTRUCTION SA, SWITZERLAND - Via Générale Guisan 12 6902 Paradiso - Lugano SUI | Tel: +41 (91) 960 9970 CALETHON DUBAI, Dubai Middle East Ofﬁce: Gold & Diamond Park, P.O. 34273 Dubai, U.A.E | Tel: +971 (4) 325 6030 CALETHON IRAQ - Calethon North Rumaila Camp, Al Attari Gate, Iraq | Tel: +964 (78) 151 50339 CALETHON TURKEY - Ankara, SUBESI Turan, Gunes Bulvan 84/2 Yildiz Cankaya, Ankara , Turkey UAE SMART GATE

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE BE SMART! UAE SMART GATES USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI UAE INTERNATIONAL A A A AIRPORT B B B

GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START

Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed C D F through Dubai International airport by using UAE Smart Gate. If you hold a machine-readable passport, UAE Emirates ID card or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds. F G G Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International airport.

I I I USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

J K L

Have your UAE Emirates ID card, E-Gate card or machine-readable passport ready L M M 1 to be scanned

N N Z N

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, you can O P Q scan your UAE Emirates ID card. If you have 2 an E-Gate card place it into the E-Gate slot

S M S A S

OK!

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue S K S S footprint guide on the ﬂoor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When ﬁnished, the next set of gates will open 3 and you can continue to baggage claim S *UK USA

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY: REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY • Machine-readable passports from To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments the above countries having your details validated by an immigration ofﬁcer. That’s it! Every time • UAE Emirates ID cards you ﬂy to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way • E-Gate cards just minutes after you landed.

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• ﺻﻴﺎﻏﺔ ﺍﻟﻌﻘﻮﺩ ﻭﻣﺮﺍﺟﻌﺘﻬﺎ Contract Drafting & Review • • ﺗﺄﺳﻴﺲ ﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ ﻭﺍﻷﻭﻓﺸﻮﺭ ﻭﺍﳌﻨﺎﻃﻖ ﺍﳊﺮﺓ Business Setup , Offshore & Free Zone Companies • • ﺍﳋﺪﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﻘﺎﻧﻮﻧﻴﺔ ﻟﻸﻓﺮﺍﺩ ﻭﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ Corporate & Commercial Legal Services • • ﺍﻟﺘﻘﺎﺿﻲ ﻭ ﺍﻟﺘﺤﻜﻴﻢ Litigation & Arbitration • • ﲢﺼﻴﻞ ﺍﻟﺪﻳﻮﻥ Debt Collection • • ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﻨﻮﻙ ﻭﺍﻟﺘﺄﻣﲔ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﺤﺮﻳﺔ Banking, Insurance & Maritime Cases • • ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﳌﻘﺎﻭﻻﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻌﻘﺎﺭﺍﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﻌﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ Real Estate, Construction & Labor Cases • • ﺍﻟﻌﻼﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﺘﺠﺎﺭﻳﺔ ﻭﺑﺮﺍﺀﺍﺕ ﺍﻻﺧﺘﺮﺍﻉ ﻭﺣﻘﻮﻕ ﺍﳌﺆﻟﻒ Trademarks, Patents & Copyrights • DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS, 14TH FLOOR, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD P.O. BOX: 9055, DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 330 4343 | FAX: +971 4 330 3993 [email protected] | www.emiratesadvocates.com

ABU DHABI RAS AL KHAIMAH DUBAI INTERNET CITY Tel: +971 2 6394446 Tel: +971 7 2046719 Tel: +971 4 3900820 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

SHARJAH JEBEL ALI DIFC Tel: +971 6 5728666 Tel: +971 4 8871679 Tel: +971 4 4019562 WITH AFFILIATE OFFICES IN SAUDI ARABIA, [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] QATAR, BAHRAIN, KUWAIT AND OMAN

FOR 24 HOUR LEGAL ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL +971 (50) 328 99 99 ROUTE MAP

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 122 10/22/15 3:23 PM ROUTE MAP

NEW ROUTES: Bologna: daily service starts November 3 Panama City: daily service starts February 1, 2016

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 123 10/22/15 3:23 PM ROUTE MAP

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 124 10/22/15 3:23 PM honcha.pdf 1 6/22/15 11:13 AM

YOUR CONCRETE PRODUCT REQUIREMENT OUR PRODUCTION SYSTEM SOLUTION

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AIR PURIFYING BLOCKS UV pollutant clean air (E.G.Nox)

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ILLUMINATED TECHNOLOGY AIR PURIFYING TECHNOLOGY

Fujian Excellence Honcha Environmental Intelligence Equipment Co. Ltd Head Ofﬁce: 3-16B, Quanzhou Economic & Technological Development Zone, Quanzhou, Fujian 362005, China Factory: Xuefen, Huaqiao Economic Development Zone, Nan’an Fujian, 362300, China Tel. No: (86-595) 2249 6062 , 2249 6066, 2249 6070 | Fax. No: (86-595) 2249 6061 Web: en.honcha.com | E-mail: [email protected] , [email protected] ROUTE MAP

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 126 10/22/15 3:23 PM OPEN SKIES FOR IPAD

Search for Open Skies on the App Store

os ad_OS.indd 1 10/22/15 5:48 PM THE FLEET

Our ﬂeet contains 245 aircraft made up of 230 passenger aircraft and 15 cargo aircraft

BOEING 777-300ER Emirates is the world’s largest operator of this aircraft, which joined the ﬂeet in 2005.

Number of Aircraft: 110 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m

BOEING 777-300 Since 1999, Emirates operates two and three-class versions of the 777-300.

Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m

BOEING 777-200LR In 2005, the Boeing 777-200LR set a new world record for distance travelled non-stop when it landed at Heathrow airport, London, after a journey of 21,601km (11,664 nautical miles) from Hong Kong - the long way round. Emirates received its ﬁrst 777-200LR in August 2007. Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

BOEING 777-200ER Emirates’ ﬁrst Boeing 777-200ER joined the ﬂeet in 1997.

Number of Aircraft: 6 Capacity: 274 Range: 14,310km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m

BOEING 777F The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably- sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo Number of Aircraft: 13 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

For more information: emirates.com/ourﬂeet

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 128 10/22/15 3:25 PM AIRBUS A380-800 Emirates has operated the A380 since 2008, and is the world’s largest operator of this aircraft.

Number of Aircraft: 69 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m

AIRBUS A340-500 This ultra-long range passenger airliner was introduced to the Emirates ﬂeet in 2003. This saw the launch of the First Class Suite which has since been rolled out on the Boeing 777 and Airbus A380.

Number of Aircraft: 1 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m

AIRBUS A340-300 Similar in many respects to Emirates A330-200s, the A340-300 is equipped with four engines giving it an enhanced range.

Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m

AIRBUS A330-200 First added to the ﬂeet in 1999, this aircraft operates predominately on shorter-haul routes.

Number of Aircraft: 18 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m

BOEING 747-400ERF This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m allows the carriage of long pieces.

Aircraft numbers through end November 2015

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OS57_103-129 Briefing.indd 129 10/22/15 3:25 PM KNOWLEDGE

Due to the scarcity of land, Tokyo incinerates 70% of its DESTINATION garbage every year, recycles 21% and dumps the remainder. How a city works. This month: Tokyo Source: Waste Atlas

TOKYO TOWER TOKYO DRIFT Tokyo’s nine terrestrial television The tower monitors pollution and Edo was founded in 1457, becoming and four FM radio stations are traffic on the streets below. The City of Tokyo in 1889, which transmitted from the Tokyo Tower. Source: Tokyo Tower official website disappeared when it merged with Tokyo Prefecture on July 1, 1943. The Eiffel Tower was the inspiration for the Tokyo Tower, which is repainted every five years, a process that takes 12 months each time.

YUP DEFINITELY TRAFFIC OVER THERE

IT’S BEEN FIVE YEARS BOYS. TIME TO PAINT!

“Tokyo buildings are numbered by the order in which they were built, not their location on the street”

Source: A First Course In Japanese by Fudeko Obazawa Reekie 6 3.64 12.3 Months an oshiya, or “pusher”, is trained Million people pass through Shinjuku Million tons of garbage is being used to before they’re allowed to start pushing Station daily, making it the world’s create the manmade island of Umi-no- people on to crowded trains during busiest rail station. Mori, or Sea Forest, in Tokyo Bay. It will rush hour. Source: Guinness World Records be a 2020 Summer Olympics venue. Japanese Railway, Transport And Source: Tokyo Summer Olympics Technology Authority planning committee

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