SUBSCRIPTION PUBLISHED 5/- PER ANNUM. EACH MONTH. 00

COPIES FREE 00 TO ALL MEMBERS OF THE I RaSH WHOLESALE FROM ASSOCIATION AND EASON & SON, Ltd. OF ITS ASSOCIATE DUBLIN. DEPARTMENT TRAVEL TY~ OFFICIAL ORGAN OF THE IRISH TOURIST ASSOCIATION, DUBLIN. ,. ..- ~ . ;""

VOL. 4. JULY, 1929. NO. 11.

A Memorable Event.

N Sumla\ 23rd of June, 11 remtlrkablc dCllIOll­ lo,yalty of a nation to it, ideltb, but t.he spirit of ordel' stratio;;" of the vitality tlnd eal'lle,:;tne8S of t.he and progt'ess which i~ chnl't1ct.eri -t.ic ol the Irish O New took place when the country Henaissance. celebrated the Centenary of Catholic Emancipation and the triumph of Daniel O'Connell, the Libewtor. Primarily it was of course, an occasion of thanks­ The Irish Countryside. aivina and the eel:emonies, which "'ere exelusivelv of o 0' " [\ religious nature, \vere marked by a dogree of quiet _\Jl countries have certtlin attraction, ill eommoll devotion which in itself was [\ tribute to the Irish "'hich they can offer to holida\' makcrs but in the people. Another a pect of the celebration "'hich compctition for touri·t tmffie tl~e distinc'tive feat.ures must have its tribute was the remtlrkably effici ilL of a country will be the determining factors in bringing organisation work. 1 othing like it htl~ been soen in visitors. In Ireland one of t.he ullique sights i-; the Ireland before, and it i' improbable that the work remarkable freshnc,'s lmd fricndl} lIppCtlrance of tlll' would have been as "'ell done in any other country. countryside. An equttble clilnlttc has given oUt' Over 300,000 people, or nearly onc-tenth of the entire countryside It cool and frcsh appearance >;ueh as i~ population of the Irish I,'ree State, a sembled in the not to be found in any country in the world. Phrenix Park, Dublin. They came lrom nil parts of It is only in these SUlllBwr (h,\ s, ",hen the hot the countrv-from Valentia to :'Ialin Head. For the sun is seen through the trees which o\'er"hadow a most part' they arrived, assembled and dispersed Wicklow road, or glinting on 0. \Vestcrn lake. that thi-; within the space of 14 hours. Their assembly was freshness can be fully enjoyed. In tll evenings, whell marked by no crushing or undue haste. Dublin the etting sun tUl'll8 n Kerl.'Y bog iuto a blaze of t.rellted her yj itors well; nOllO "'ont [l\vay hnngry. glory, with our wbitewasrwc1 Uwtehe

Photo) [LT..\. .111 e.cclllsice riI'''' of the s('Clle ill Phlrlli.r Pa/'I, 011 the occa.ioll of the Celllellary Uelebmtiolls of Catholic Emallcipation. IRISH TRAVEL. July, 1920. DRIVING THROUGH CONNEMARA 'By W. M. Letts. ~ 'E of the delights 01 motoring is to rccall cer­ every 'hadc of umber, sienna, ru et, \'andyke, in its tain days, to compare notes with others, to oft colour; now it i' a great ilver hield of the bay, O dll'ell in memory on the lights and colours with thc majestic cone of , the holy thnt are so tnpricious until the mind records them in mountain, blessing sea and land. .\.gain, it is an old that sketch-book which even thc unskilled may keep. \roman in red petticoat piling turf, or a donkey with There i.. 11 question I have often put to sailors: her little \roolly, straggle-legged foal at her side, or a " What is tbe most benutiful harbour you have seen?" flock of proud-cyed, stiff-necked geese gaggling de­ To motorists I \\'imt to ,ay: "\Vhnt is the most fitlDCe nt the car. memorable dri \'e you lwve tnken?" ~lallarnnll'y is a beauty spot, famous in guide books, :'Iny I put the Jast question to myseU and answer but we did not stop till wo reached \Vestport. One it 101' sheer joy in recalling the beauties oC thc day alwaYi:l does wait a little in Westport, it is so often and or the placc? the last link with civilisation. You may cash a cheque We left Dugort, 011 the thero, and buy provisions north-wcst of .\chill Island, for lunch, cheese and toma­ on a .June morning, leaving toes and bananas, things at nn ens,\ nfter-breakfast you may not see for a long hour. Tbe nm acmss the time, for \Vestport is an im- island is loYel,\ for n sblrt. portant town, though to :\lountains lire tu111 bled be­ English c.ye it may look fore nnd nround. nnd the sleepy and ver,\- Irish. sea glomlls in thc loughs and Our way took us through hnys of this indented lnnd. the Marquis of 's estate I could neyer leave .\ehill and out to the Louisburg without n heavy heart, for it road. \Ve \\'ere running s ms a blesRed islc of peace under the shadow of Croagh and kinclliness: nnd the Patricl{, the mountain of hollow noisc n the "'heels Photo] 11 f,onely Stretch near Doolagll. [.-\uthor. pilgrimage, trodden b,v hun-

Photo] .t Distant Fie!!' of ('roagh Putrid... [Author. Photo] A chill IJead. [Author. run oyer the bridge at .\chill Sound has a dolour in it. dredi:l at thousands of piou feet. We stopped to look " Oh! happ.· i 'land, I will c me back," the heart at ~Iurrisk .\bbey, an anci nt ruined haunt of holy snys with a sigh, lest the dr am should be vain. J1wn, and now an bbey of tho e gay brothers, the jackdawR. We lunched on a bank above drifts of .H ,\chill Round the driver of the car, with many y llow flags, and looked out to 'ea or up to the moun- m,mly admonitions about the right way to drive, got iain ns tbe mood took us. into the Dublin train. All handR were busy in per- \Vb n th • car ret1ched Louisburg we turned. Every . uading a huge, l£-willed, ow to enter the same road th,\t Olle does llot follow in this \Vest country it'ain. In the bustle and general excitement the ad- is n lure resisted. \Ve might have gone to Muilrea monitionR \\'ere quietly taken and as quietly the car and th lonely. hare below that mountain, but we ~lid off on the roarl to Mnllarann.\. There is beauty, turn cl inland to follow the mo t beautiful road I know hut no monotony of beant.v, all ihe way on these that takes the happy wanderer by Doolough Pass and 'Vest of Tre]nn(l ronds. Now it iR n bogland, with Delphi to Lecnane,the key of Connemara. A lonely 252 (Continued on pag 269.) July, 1929. :RISlI TRAVEL. The Beauties of Kenmare. (13 . W' .L.)

FIRST set foot in Co. Kerry at 1\.en- I mare, and found there a t h l' i v i n g town and a host of t h i n g s to interest. Looking towards the sea from the lofty su ­ pension bridge \I,hich pans the J(enmare Hiver, on the right lay a pier, now apparently little used. At 101V tide the approach of a v e s s e 1 through the ledges of rock mu"t have been almost im­ po sible. But ship of 150 tons could snfely enter with the full tide. Photo] Jfl/c/(sna Jfol/ntain, Kenll1m·e. [,\lIthor. In Stuart day, when 'Yilli11l11 l'ett~" founded the to\l'n, he \\'as regarded as of the" .\ncient t1nd :'Iodern Htate of the County of an ;tchenturolls and not too sensible pioneer, becau"e Kerr~ " should consult Dr. 'mith's 1ldmirable hi'­ he determined to form an Engli'h ettlement in this tory, publi hed in 175G, lmd no,,· a rare book. \\'ild district. The historian of tho'e times, whose Cut off from the outside world by a journey of two pen betray the mrlll, after a lively description of the da.\· through mounhlinous paths and den Cl forests, abundance of nature in this most beautiful trad of the mall community established1lt ~-edeen (l(enlllare the British 1 lcs, gocs on to say: \\"11 the llame afterwnrcls gi ,"en b.\ Iletty's de cenclant, " But during the greatcr part of the 17th cenlur.\, Lord 'helburne) to smelt iron for English manuft1C­ this pamdise \n1S as little kno\\'11 to the civilised WOrll! turers continued to prosp l' for 18 years. The popnhl­ flS Spitzbergen or Greenland. If ever it "'as men- ban amountecl to 180; the land aronnd, cleared of its

Photo] Tile J(e11lnare Ri/·cr. [.\ IIthor. Ph to] Arbutus Foliage at Killal"llCy. [Author. tion d, it was mentioned a a horrible desert, a chao foresl trccs, was successfully cultivated, and t,,·o small of bog., thickets and pre ipiees, where the she-wolf barks were employed in fishing and trading along the still littered, and \\,here some half-naked sal'ages, ,1'110 con t. Salmon abounded in the ril'er and the moun­ ('ould not speak a ,,'ord of English, made them elve tnin streams, and some of the ettlers were bold burrow in the mud, and lil'ed on rool' and our enough to venture round 1\Iucksna and bring back the milk." The reader who \I'ould hnve a better account fish of Dromoughty Lake. But it was a dangerous 21)3 (Continued on page 266. ) IRISH TRAVEL. July. 1020.

GET INTO THE HOLIDAY MOOD 1

By THOMAS KELLY.

NE aspect fourth at tennis or bridge seelllS in charge of a trio O of a holiday \\'ho are beneath 'your social or performing statu>; do resembles a not disdain his offer 011 that account. They may be joint bank­ anxious to pick lip tips from you, and their ::;eeming ing account. buoyancy in assuming that they are your peers may In fairnel>s be due to a brave attempt to cloak their ner"ou ness! ~'ou cannot Don't be too critical of the \raiters and \\'aitn' '::;e ex p ec t to who seem intent all ignoring you. That pause bet\veen get from it the cours s is good for digestion-an 1 those who \\'ait more than on you arc doing their best. Possibly some of them yoU!' proper may have to deal with that terrible person-the man share - but \rho ti ps in advance! Besides it is a poor irleal of :vou arc holiday that i::; embodied in the Y rkshiremtm's reply often dis­ to the query as to whether he had enjoyed his \\'eek appointed in at Blackpool: " _\y, I diel that. \Yaitn'ss \\'ere "lick that re­ thi year and the grub wa~ a\,' red!" spect; while _\nd don't pack up your troubles before you "l.lrt. in practice you arc sometime::; inclined to fancy that 'rry flinging them to the foUl' "'incls instead. But those who are partners in your adventure are not begin your packing proper at least. fl \\'eek in adv'lI1ee. quite doing you justice. Then it will resolve itself into a plea. ant prepar'1tion, Such a viewpoint has spoiled many a holiday, in. tead of the more usual elevcnth hour nightmare. doomed it to failure even before its start. For it is a L00k upon your holida.\· as ft great adv nture. truism to say that not a little of the enjoyment o[ a Don't start off \\,ith a sort of half-hope that 'you may holiday comes from anticipation, provided the antici­ have a better tim than la. t yeal·. Fare forth to it pation is along the right lines. But I do not belieye with the resoh'e thnt from the experience you will that anyone benefits from the type of thought which dm'i\·c much gain, and already you tlre half-way takes a turn after this manner: " By J aye! if I don't to\\'anls fl suc·c·essful holie1 ;\ou. as well. \Vhat matter if a traill i, five minutes late, 01' a punc­ A not unusual type of holiday-maker is the man tured tyre keeps YOUI' dinner waiting. Think of all who is kept busy all through the work-a-day year an(l the folk who \\'ould willin~ly change places with you! then finds himself at the seaside for a fortnight. He arrives at the hotel with the stubborn attitude of one who would announce to all and sundry: " I've come LIMERICK AGRICULTURAL SHOW. here to be rested and a1l1u. cd." Though he does not know it, be is asking for disappointm nt. Far better F'l'ER a lapse of seventeen .veal', an illl1u ntiaI had he come in the frame of mind in which a holidtly A committee, under the chairman;,hip of the is Yisioned as an opportunity for amusing other people! Earl of Dunl'11\'en, has been appointed to l'c-C'~tablish A hotel holidtlY etllls for team work, for gi"e and the Limerick _\gricullural Show, The committeC' IHlye take, for the getting of on's shoulder to the joy-wheel set about tl1l' work in hand in a very thorough ftlshion, now and again. The folk who derive most enjoymC'nt and a prize list of £800 hns been e~tablishcd, rrwent.v from the plea. ant social intercourse which a holiday C'lflsscs for horses, thirty cIa .'es for Mttk, sixt,v hotel offerfl arc gen rally those who bu. y themselves cIa. S'S for poultry, nl1cl C'i~ht:v lasses for horti<'ldture in helping others to feel that they ar not heil1go ha\'e been arranged for. Exhibits of agl'icullurnl ignored. 11 lachiner.\·, implements, motors ar also being Were I compiling a list of holiday "Dont'~ "I arranged, fmd nothing i,; being left undone to make should give first place to "Don't think too mueh the show the finest Irish sho\\' oubicle Btlll,.,briclge. about yourself either before or during the holiday." .\Ugllst 21st and 22nd haye be n d <·iclecl upon :h tIll' Even if the man who casually asks you to make [1 dates of the show. 254 July, 1929. IR ISH TRAVEL.

I IN THE DEISE COUNTRY. THE WATERFORD GAELTACHT. 13y I. :MacLeod

\\'a' here, tradition says, that Phil Carty and young George Borrow escaped when flying from the Red­ toats in 1817, by each hiding in a coffin which was being waked. Helvick Head, which is called after Helviou a Xor e invader-vick being the Norse for harbour~ls a fine promontory, and commands a wonderful view out to sea. Standing on the look-out, one can catch a faint glimpse of the Metal Men at Tramore Bay; on the right, l\Iine Head lighthouse is just visibl", ,lOd the broad Atlantic stretches out before one. On a bright day one can often see the American liners plying to and from Cobh. Helvick Harbour, in a "heltered position round from the head, is ideal for n cooling plunge on a hot summer day. We pitched our tent right on the Head, facing Dungarvan, and many an evening we lay outside on the grass watching the sun going down to the left of the Comeraghs, and casting ruddv shadows across the l'hoto] LismOl'e Castle. [Author. still \vaters of the bay, the surface of which was only ~f the train steamed into Dungarvan station \\'e ddurbed by the occasional bobbing up and down leaned out eagerly to catch a glimpse of our our pet seal as he drew near the harbour in answer A future Fear an Tige. He came up to us as \\'e to our whistle, and disappeared again quickly, as he ~lighted with the ever ready" eead mile failte," and spied un audacious fisherman coming along with his we soon found ourselves chatting freely \vith him in lobster pots. Irish as we were being \vhisked along the Dungarvan The coast line from Helvick round to )'line Head Ring road in a jaunting car. Soon we were within i rugged and not unlike the Cornish coast. In many -sight of the Connigar, a 10n

A BANK HOLIDAY TALE. SEEING THE "ROARADENDRUMS." 13y M, L. CRANSTON.

R country cousin, Priscilla, was me bodilv on to the car. Further demur horse at (I think) twelve to one. "If it " Up " not long ago. " Let's do was usel~ss. As we set off, I devoutly wins," I said hopefully (this time it \I'as O something special to-day," said hoped that none of our friends would Priscilla who hesitated) "we'll be able­ when Whit Monday dawnl:'__ glo­ see us, for it dawned on me that our to stay on till the end." It came in rious after two miserable days. "" here'll attire matched the men's. Priscilla was last ~ we go?" We discussed everything, from rigged out in a sporty Irish tweed "uit, Priscilla counted her few bits of smalL the Pier at Dun Lao~l1aire to the Zoo. and I had on a striped wool three-piece, silver. "If we go baek by car we won't Finally we settled on HO\l th and the with jazz scarf tied in an impish bow have any money left for tea," she cal­ "Roaradendrums," as Priscilla calls under one ear. eulated. "\\'hich'lI we do?" them. The horse was as slow-footed as our " \Valk, and get the tea," I said em­ Our preparations for the Jay"s outmg fello\l-fares were nimble-witted. Police phatically. were simple. I made up a packet of adjurations to "K?pe movin' there ," sandwiches and stuffed them into the were countered by a brilliant display of A Lm SUPERB. pocket of my rose-red mackintosh. I'ris­ Dublin "back-chat." We got to the The road from the races seemed twice­ cilia thrust a bag of bulls-eyes into the entrance, paid, and drove right up to as long and dusty as when we drove it other pocket, and we set off about 11.30. the rails. a few hours earlier, but we had enouglL We always say that the easiest way to " Good luck to ye, Miss," the jarvey cash to take us to Howth to get tea and get to any place round Dublin is to said as he lifted me down. "I hope ye"1I our return tickets took us back to the­ start from the Pillar, so we trummed back a winner, Rn' I'll be waitin' for ye Pillar. there and changed into the Howth c.ar. wh n ye're goin' home." " Have you anything left?" I asked as. \Ve took return tickets, which was lucky As we settled with him, my coat came I found the few coppers in my bag would as things turned out later. The tram unrolled, and at sight of it the three just take us home. "A ha'penny." She' was packed with hilarious bank-holiday­ men smiled broadly, for the bag round held it out. "Perhaps you'd like to ites. As it drew up at Sutton a Il,an the sweets had burst and one rose-red keep it as a souvenir of your first raee­ sitting beside us leaned across to onc <.n side was studded over with black and lTIccting r' the opposite seat-" Got a tip?" he white bulls-eyes. I rolled it up again **** queried. hastily, and leaving the boy to retrieve * "Well, what did you think of the rho­ " What's on?" I whispered to Pri ·cilla. tho e that had fallen off, we set out to dodendrons?" was the family query " Baldoyle," she answered h~icfl~" see the fUll. " Let's go." whi("h greeted us. be~an, " Oh, whatever will they say?" 1 pro­ t\ BlT OF A FLUTTEII. "\\'e-er--" I but a look tested, for my family are not-well-the There were gipsies and fruit-sellers, from Priscilln silenced me. sort that go to races, but she i~nored my and stalls for lemonade and other re­ "The Roarudendrums"- he ("lasped scruples. As the passen~e!s filed from fr shments, and above all the noise and her hands e("statically-" the R03raden­ the car she grasped the lust one by the ehatter the voices of the Bookies " yel­ drums were 'UPERB!" coat and demanded-" How d'you get lin° a~in onc another." The small tand there:" was so full \le eouldn't sce from it, so lIe g-rinned affably. "Get off here, wc went to the rails and ,got quite a SIR WALTER RALEIGH'S, Miss, and get a side car. It's only a ~ood place. Wc tried to get a card, but mile." were still without onc \\h n the horses HOUSE AT YOUGHAL came out to parade before lhe first ra("e. " \Ve're going," she decided instanter, RARE opportunity will be afforded and almost dragged me from the tram. A kindly neighbour, however, lent us his, and we were thus able to back our fan­ visitors on A u~ust IHh next of cie. But we \lere not in luck's way. A seein~ Sir Waiter Haleigh's famous. BIRDS OF A FEATHER. :JIv horse came in seeond last and Pri'­ house at You~hal "hen a Gard n Fete There were motors of all sorts, a"d of cilia' fifth. will be held in the grounds. Sir Waiter" Haleig-h's house dates from 11·6 ~ A.D., cour e the inevitable " outsides." She To console ourselves wc spread the when it was built for the Warden of St. rushed up to the nearest onc. " How still-bulls-eye trimmed ma("kintosh on the ~fary's Colle~iate Chureh. Ralei~h lived much to the races?" she gasped. bank and proceeded to eat our lunch, here during the years 1588 and 1589, and "Shillin' each." The jarvey touched finishing off with a few of the "trim­ wc leam from the Annals of Youghat his "Homburg" and set it at a sti 11 mings." \Ve were still eating when an that he was ~Jaror of the town. IIere more rakish angle, but Priscilla was not oran~e-bo. came along and for a con­ nalei~h entertai;led Spenser, the poet,. a bit perturbed. "Come on." She sideration he went to ~et us a card. lIe while the latter was writin~ the first beckoned to me and I had to join her, was back.. in fi"e minutes, just as the but I glanced doubtfully at the fares three books of the" Fairy Queen," and parad for the seeond ra("e \I a in pro­ one of the b d!ooms is still shown to the already seated-a fat man with a bri~ht. gress. A~ain wc ba("ked our fancies­ red face, surmounted by a loud check visitors as Spenser's room. Here, too,. and again without success, the hor cs the potato, originally brought from Vir­ cap turned back to front; another man coming in sixth and ninth respectively. with a bowler stuck on the back of hi3 ginia, was planted in Ireland. The We watched the third ra("e without gl'ounds surronnding the house arc beau­ head, and a small boy in a red jersey, risking any more of our precious funds, perched on the "well." tifully wooded. The yews, closely asso­ which would have been ample for the ciated with Raleigh and his pipe; the "I don't think we ought--" I was " Roaradendrums," but "ere meag-re for m vrtles, bays, nrbutus and other exotics beginning another whispered protest"hen Baldoyle. Then the fourth race came on. acid to the' old-II orld atmosphere of the­ the jarvey settled the matter by lifting I plunged and put my last shilling on a plaee. 256 July, 1929. I RI SH TRAVEL. Irish Travel Holiday ', Winners of the May , . Competitions. 0 Competition

TAKE YOUR CAR TO IRELAND-A VIEW OF WICKLOW-MY IDEAL HOLIDAY-A HOLIDAY AT HOME-IN CO. SLIGO-FERMOY

South of England and return was just on eighteen Take Your Car to Ireland. hundred mile'>, and the total co t of the car, includ­ 'By j. F. 'Barrett. Cumberly. Surrey. ing insurance, petrol, garage fees, transport, etc., ",,'as HE majority of motorists are very nen'ou about under sixteen pounds. T takincr their cars from their native heath and Ireland, from m,,· short experience, is a ',,"onderful embarking 0 on what is known as a "foreign country for the motorist, having superb scenery, a tour." Ireland is unfortunately included under this warm-headed people, and cvery facility for the motor­ heading, and the inquiring visitor receives many con­ ing tourist, To advise how to get the best out of any flicting reports about the tro~ble of the Custom , the trip to Ireland, where time is not unlimited, I must st'lte of the roads, steep gradIents, garages, and other finish as I started, " Take your car." points affecting the enjoyment of a motor tour, Let me set at rest the mind of any doubting A View of Wicklow. motorist by declaring that no more enjoyable holiday could be spent than a car tour in the Emerald 'By John M orrison. Old Basin. Glasgow. Isle, The motorist EVER shall I Ior­ will find the ach'an­ N get a walk I tage of such a course had early last sum­ are many and various, mer. It was rather whilst the supposed late in the evening difficulties will not when I set out from appear, He "Yill find my hotel in Wicklow, that the Customs and 'trolled along to formalities are over in the quaint old village a fell' minutes and of Hathne,y. Its the officials are kind­ thatched roofs and ne s itself; that he white - \\'ashed ,,'alls can commence the basking in the bril­ dav's run 'whenever liilllee of the setting he' is ready-or the sun Ial'cinated me for ladies are~",,"ithout smYlC time, and it I"as waitinCT for trains, with bacl\\nU'd glances and that the roads that I cl imbed the hill are excellent, ",,'ell path leading bac'k to sign-posted, and the town, Bnt "",hen I gradients, even on reaehed the summit the Western coast, " DUllbl'is1Jtia," off the coa,,/ of .)[a'l0' of the hill I had to are quite easy for a Tbis remarkable rock, altiJouj(h an i,land ,ince the earlie"t times, has buildinj(S stop again, for the on it. It is a 'eabird .,anctuary and lle,,~inj(·place, low pow red car. 0 l' Photo by ~iall ~IcCormick, Carrowmore, nallina, who has been awarded the pan a m it that Of adventures he prize of a. camera b} .. Irish TraveL" stretched before me will meet man:v, To filled me with ",,'onder. relate one exp;rience on the road: I met one signpost '''hc're the sea, like fl great spoonful of liquid peace, ,yhich point d the wrong way, Rather perplexed, I c'n'pt int.o the bay, a foaming fringe gleamed along the made inquirie of a local, and received the a t<>unding shin~le, Y llow and tender tint Bided with the fnc reply in a rich Irish brogue, "• ure it blew that way this morning," of the ca, for the sun had slipped behind the 'Wicklow In addition, he will find that the car can take him Hills, leaving it", afterglo'" to enchilllt the waters, Thc to ",,'onderful beauty spots which train traveller' never windjammers that drO\\'sed in thc harbour were at reach and everywhere on the road he ",,'ill meet ,Yith rest, and it seemed content to drcam away eternity. the t~aditional h'indness of the Irish people and be Only the softest of winds whispered its apologies be­ absolutely amazed at their willingness to oblige, tween their spars, reluctant to disturb the calm of the Again, the car is economical, l\1y tour from the evening, This gentle breath, far from causing corn. 257 IR1.S,H XRA,VEL. .July, 1929. motion, soothed all um-uly elements, and added spirit Time! Well, I should amble so leisurely as to allow to the stillness of the sea. myself a week for the getting there. That would give The little town of Wicklow seemed to be taking me two full weeks at Rosslare, as I should ultimately merely a languid sort of interest in the onmarch of return to town by train. the waters. As lights gradually blinked from the win­ What glorious possibilities! I could rest upon Bray dows, and the clock on the tower chimed out ten Head, or bask anywhere along a far-stretching sea­ weary strokes, this wa:s the essence of the place: ~hore; could even spare time to wander into the Glen " Well, we're interested of course, but still, with our 01 the Downs, the Devil's Glen, and the sweet Vale goats and donkeys to attend to in the morning, we of Avoca; to linger in the streets of Wicklow, Gorey, haven't really time to bother." The hills at the back, Enni'corthy, and Wexford; even to kneel at St. heavy and sad, slumbered moodily, resentful against David's Well, and climb the historic heights of Vinegar the never-ending animation of the waters. Only the Hill. river, as it purred its way through the Murrough, was And why Rosslare? Do not think that it is because at sympathy with the sea, and it laughed buoyantly GeOl'ge Bernard Shaw invariably goes there. If you at the moon's efforts to catch an undistorted glimpse really wish to know, just get the Rosslare folder, of herself on the stone-disturbed ripples. issuecl by the Irish Tourist Association, read it, and It was late that night when I got home. I may wager that you shall be hot-foot after me. And listen! I know that once back in the toils of town My Ideal Holiday-A Trek to and routine, my exchequer will be in a more virile Rosslare. condition than upon returning from London or Douglas. 'By F. P. Carey, William St., Dublin A Holiday at Home. "S EE Ireland Fir t!" That for the future will What to do when we 'can't get away.' be my vacation slogan, even though I have already 'een so much of my native country 'By F. M. Stokes, Vunlaoghaire. that I shall be merely revisiting almost any place my VERYONE needs a holiday-by which is choice could fall upon. E usually meant change of air and scene. But, I have made the choice. Declining summer Now, most of us can get at least a week in the shall sec me en 1'uute for Rosslare, one of Ireland's year, but perhaps there comes a time when even a portals. week is an impo:ssibility. Then we feel aggrieved I shall not, however, go by train-nor even by 'bus, with fnte, and in consequence our everyday surround­ up-to-date as I am. 0, my friends! "Shank's ings become distasteful. Instead of feeling aggrieved, mare " for me! ho\\'e\'er, supposing we make up our minds to view Really, I am quite sane. Think it out! What may the neighbourhood afresh and see what new things one see of the still-hidden glories of the Co. Dublin, we can learn about it. of the smiling Garden of Ireland, or of the peculiar Unrecognised Romance and Beauties. beauties of \Vexford county, whilst cooped up in \Ve may think we know" every stick and stone," a railway eaniage? When one has time, why not but do \\'e? What do we know of its history? What earn honestly a week or fortnight's rest at a given stirring battles or scene have been staged within its resort by di:lt of walking thereto? borders? What do we know of its legends and folk­ I saw rural Lancashire and Yorkshire several tim('~, lore? Its antiquities and place names? Its geology but only onf'e in an impressionable aspect. That W'IS and topography? Its industries and sporting facili­ when I hacl " footen " the ,,,ay from Liverpool to lan­ ties? Its fauna and flora? It is surprising how chester, thenl'e to Bolton and Preston, and O\Tcr the familiar objects and places become romantic when boundary by Lancastei". I can imagine the genuinf' seen again t the background of their associations! pleasure of that walking tour as multiplied a thousancl­ Then about those vien's-the show spots we think fold in a trek through a portion of my own country. we know so well. If we make pilgrimage to tb m at Baggage! All I need shall be contained in a haver­ unfamiliar times, at dawn or by moonlight, they will sack strapped to my back. And my needs shall be take on new beauties. Again, on wet days, for all reduced to the absolute minimum, leaving out the holidays hrwe such, wc can amu;:;e ourselves with the silver-backed brushes and the evening-,mit. How literature inspired by our own" W e Town." And if much more enjoyable pur yearl.v vacations could we it has given birth to none it will surely have produced always determine where to draw the line as between a writer or great man, the story of whose life will kit-packing and house-removal! repay study. I should tramp from place to place, putting up An Cl All-the-Summer " Holiday. where I could wherever darkn ss should find me, and The pes imistic may argue: " Can't get away at all! setting forth again as soon after the following sum-ise Stuck in the office (or shop) all day!" Well. Cut as possible. down the usual evening amusements by half and use 258 Jttly, 1929. IRISH' TR14 VEL. this free time to go a-holidaying. And unlike other literary world, for it was Innisfree, one of the island' holidays to which" Finis" must be written when the on the lake, that inspired the poet to write some of his suit-ca as are unpacked, the Holiday at Home can most beautiful lines. continue till the days begin to draw in once more. Other things there are to wonder at-prehistoric monuments on Cairns Mill and in the Deerpark, his­ 'By M. McCarthy. toric Breffni Castle, from which Dermot MacMurrouaho In Co. Sligo. Kilfinnian. fled with 0 'Rourke's wife, Devorgilla-to brina about c~rse " Oh, sure she's a Queen in purple and green, an invasion of his country and an everlastina on As she shimmers and glimmers her gardens between his head. Lovely and historic Dromahair~ belauded And away to Lough Lene the like isn't seen, Of her "ivel' aquiver Icith shadOlD and sheen, by Bulfin in his" Rambles in Erin," and the adjacent The beautiful city of Sligo." Creevelea Abbey; Glencar, with its peaceful lake and Swiss valley, will make the tourist linger-and these HE stranger in Sligo will at once become are but a few of the many places that excite the heart conscious of his presence in genuine tourist T and stir the imagination of visitors to Sligo. If rest or ground. Celebrated for the uncommon splen­ recreation is required, Rosses Point and Strandhill, dour of its surroundings and the numerous relics of ~ligo's seaside suburbs, are close to hand. Rosses antiquity which everywhere survive, Sligo is more re­ Point is the especial rendezvous for the votaries of golf, markable still in that such abundance of natural and no more sporting 18-hole links does Ireland boast. beauty ·I.md historical wealth is concentrated within so If fishing be the quest, the rivers and lakes of limited a space. Sligo provide the opportunities-and the fish, not trout That, too has been said of Killarney, and perhaps it merely, but salmon as 'well, the game salmon of Sligo. is this feature-the concentration of its beauty-that sometimes prompts people to designate the surround­ ings of ligo the "Killarney of the West." 0, Fermoy for the Sportsman. logically, to describe Killarney as the " Sligo of the 'By v. O' Carroll, Mount Street, 'Dublin. South" would be equally apt. Judged by other stan­ dards, the similitude i not, hO\\'e"er, complete; for ER~IOY has long ago acquired fame as a fi'hing the truth is that Sligo, for its 'cenery, its storied ruins F centre, for the Blackwater, on which the town and its glamour, is unrivalled anywhere else in Ire­ is '0 picturesquel,Y situated, is one of Ireland's noted land, is typical only of it elf and alone in its peculiar salmon rivers and one of the earliest in the country. charm and appeal. For ligo is a tourist re ort ,,,ith \Vriting of the Blackwater at Fermoy a ,,-ell-knO\\'J1 a personality. author and practical angler has said: " In all a life­ Writing of it in his recently published" Ireland of time devoted to running water I have never seen a the Welcomes," D. L. Kelleher says: " Sligo is one river tretch to compare with this. I do earnestly of the ' finds' of Western Europe for any "'ho will advise visitors to make Fermoy a centre." The venture for gold of the eye and heart and imagination; fisherman at Fermoy has the added pleasure which that is to say, there is delectable scenery, a great love beauty of environment provides, for no Irish river is story, and, all around, a series of wonder tales that so beilUtiful as the Blackwater as it winds its way rival the Greek for distinction and grandeur." through well-wooded banks and past many legend­ The town itself impresses one by it;:; brightness, its haunted castles, to the sea. vitality and its prosperity; though it is not commer­ ~ ot for salmon only is the Blackwater noted, for it cialism which brings the tourist here. Of greater con­ holds splendid trout as well; while those who prefer cern to him are the hotels, which are really good, and the quietude of smaller streams have but to drive the facilities for sight-seeing, which are splendidlv a few miles outside Fennoy to reach the Funcheon, organised. Having seen the historic abbey-in ruins, the Araglen, or the Bride, there to fish for trout (and but splendidly preserved-the tourist's ambition will almon, too), with a certainty of a good day's sport. be to climb t,he.heights of , for he will have Beauty and romance he will find along the banks of heard that on the flat summit of that hill Connaught­ these Blackwater tributaries too--ancient castles and men of an early generation have built a huge cairn abbe.Ys, cromlechs, raths, pillar stones and holv wells to stand as a memorial to Maeve, their beloved though at Glan"'orth and similar relics of a storied past at vainglorious Queen, who ruled the West in the fir t Kil"'orth and Castlelyons. century of the Christian era. Benbulbin, too, he must Fermoy i also the centre of a famous fox-hunting explore to see for him elf the magnificent views from ddrict; it is equally celebrated for greyhound that uncultivated hill and the spot where legend has coursing, and boa ts probably the best pack of otter hewn the rocky bed of the hunted Diarmuid and hounds in Ireland. Grainne. But 'above all he will yearn for Lough Gill, Finall~', the visitor will find a warm welcome in and viewing that most beautiful of Irish lakes will Fermo~', and, what is of more material importance, understand why Sligo is synonymous with scenery. he will find good hotels and excellent faciliti s for the It was Lough Gill which gave W. B. Yeats to the enjoyment of a sportsman's holiday. 259 IRISH TRAVEL. July, 1929. Glenqem I=Usr -CO. Donegal

Holiday lOuring onPratts WHETHER your way leads to the rugged grandeur of the Donegal Highlands, to wild Connemara, to Killarney and over the Coomakista to Glengariff and Gougane Barra, or across the Sugar Loaf to Glendalough and the Seven Churches, your engine will run better and more smoothly on Pratts-the pure petrol. Pratts gives more miles per gallon and more miles per hour, swifter acceleration, greater power on hills-in fact everything necessary to make for pleasant, trouble-free touring! Start on Pratts. And everywhere that you fill up en route, fill up with Pratts. Never say" petrol"-say PRATTS Irish·American Oil Co., Ltd., 1 and 2 Upper O'Connell Street, Dublin.

260 July, 1929. I RI SH TRAVEL. 13y RINGABELLA, co. CORK. Miss Jenny H arvey

HEERIO everybody! What a glorious day 101' plates, etc., from the same stores needed no careful a picnic! Three cheers for Ringabella!! handling. A Deccaphone meanwhile played" I want C. Got all the baskets? Right! In you go. t<> be happy, " and everyone gaily joined in the chorus. Puff, puff, a shriek, the rattle of the engine, and off Once again the roving spirit takes possession of u . we gol Rocky Bay is voted and decided upon. Is this a hen The train steams slowly into the first stopping sta­ party? ~ot likely! Now where has Katty and John tion-Rochestown, with its fine Capuchin 1\Ionastery, disappeared to? Of course Viva and Billy have kindly standing peacefully at the top of the hill, overlooking gone to fetch water-" some mothers certainly rear the tiny village. their sons to practice kindness!" "Passage next stop," -houts the sleepy porter. Rocky Ba~-, nearby, is voted as our ramble quar­ Passage and Monksto""n, two seaside and fishing vil­ ter , and justly so. 'Midst shouting and singing, with lages, and the residence of our more prosperou to\\'n­ joy in God's bright sun-hine, we climb the low hills folk, who also possess town houses. Both places afford round about us, and from the height we saw Daunt ',; the sightseer a lovely picture, the older houses being Rod:, proudl,v and defiantly staring us from without <]uaint when compared with the more modern dwel­ that grand harbour. lings; the little yachts resting calmly on the smooth Roche's Point waters, while the fi hm'men haul in their nets on the turns her b a c le pier-all this seen from the fleeting train as it pnp,se faintly on us, but by on its "'av to Crosshaven. Rob e l' t 's Cove . Hurrah! Crossbaven at last. Hail thop,e t\\·o greets us with a jaunting-cars, somebody. \Vhat! one shilling slumberous smile, a head to FountainstO\Yn. Righto! three inviting a tour of its mile. Jump up everybody, for a buggy cranny nooks and ride. X 0 smell of gasoline here! cave'. From here Everyone ready? Gee up, Hors y. we get an exquisite \Vith a bumpety bump, \\'e're view 01 our o",'n and <>ff, along the cool, shady road one 01 the finest har­ -so "'ell knO\\'n to picnic bours in the world. parties - our lu-ty On our right the voiee keeping time masses of waving, to the clatter of the golden corn await horse's hoofs. the cruel h and Soon we jump ex­ which plucks its citedly off the cars, cars, and the cool as the hor e come to a dead s top green of the grass a t Fountainstown. on which we al'e Fer l' y boats are Photo] TIle Beach at C,·ossl,al'cn. [LT.A. now sitting gives a h ail e d; in we sweet relief from the tumble, while the boats l' ck in the water, and in sun 'p, glare. No wonder poets went into ecsta­ flv minute \\'e are landed safe and dry on Ringabella sies over nature while writing its golden praises, Strand. for each one of us felt a thrill at the beauty Kettles, jugs" parcels, and baskets, and everybody and simplicity of it all. Cameras are focu sed, merr.v and bright. Soon a cheery fire is crackling in and long afterwards, during the winter evening, tho e the good old-fashioned way. None of your wobbly snap hots bring vividly to mind the hours spent Primu for us. Bathina costumes are donned, and amidp,t uch glorious scenery and happy surrounding . woe to the one who doe n't " dip." The water i. After a few games of the well-known " forfeits" simply lovely here at all times, and underfoot the -and the "old" fools were the best fool -wo sand i so fine that stones are a rarity; conseCiuently, partook of some tea, while jokes go spinning round, corns and bunions are safe. and the happy laughter echoes acro the smooth ow, then, who's hungry? A rush is made to the waters. ba kets, but la! thev are empty! A laugh rings out The declining sun warns us of the close of day, and, from behind a shady rock, and peering over, we dis­ 'midst packing Ilnd gathering, everybody shouts, cover a delicious lunch neatly arranged on a large " 'Ihree cheers for Ringabella I" while someone breaks .. Woolworth's" dining cloth, which deceived the in in"a clear, sweet voice with" The end of a perfect most critical e.ve as to its quality. Unbreakable cups, day. 261 (Continued on page 266.) IR ISH TRA 'V EL. July, 1929_

"IT'S THE TOBACCO THAT COU TS"

PLAYER'S MEDIUM NAVY CUT CIGARETTES 10 for 6d. 20 for l1~d

262 July, 1929. IR ISH TRAVEL.

Wexford -a County of Gardens

13y M. Lyster.

Photol Ferry Can·i]. [l.T.A.

N the occasion of my first visit tn situation is dramatic. On the edge of ing water a tower stands as a symbol '" exford some years ago I the steep rocks that top the swift flow­ of old historic days. It was here that O asked a friend who knew the tered all the way to the south coa t. the first ca tIe in Ireland was erected town of "Wexford well what sort Some miles beyond \Vexford-a morn­ by the English. of a place it was and he said, " Oh, \Vex­ ing's drive it i '-one comes to the cor­ On the following day as I was leaving ford is a busy place-the people there ner of Ireland, as it "ere, where the \Yexford I sat near a man in the train get up very early in the morning-they road turns from the south-east coast to who was able to tell me something in­ get up earlier than anywhere else in Ire­ due sruth. I think it is nenr Hook teresting about all we saw. He did so land." Head. and near the place where the in such an original way that I deeply When I reached it it was pouring "ith first Englishman landed in Ireland, which regretted not having met him at the out­ rain, and yet it was not unpleasant. ""e g-ave rise to the saJing "he'll get it set of the journey. A long stretch of lunched in the long, narrow street that by hook or by crook." sea runs inland near \Vexford town, and looked as if it had been stolen from "'e took another road to ee Lady's he told me how once a colon v of houses some Continental town, and afterwards Island Lake-a lake thnt is lonelv and and a school had been separated from we went by train to Rosslare. Even bright and sunny, and i overlook'ed by the mainland here by the tide, and how more than \\'exford itself Rosslare the ruins of a fort and a monastery-sa for many years the people continued to seemed to testify that its people got up wople say-that were plundered by leud an i land existence that was not early, for signs of growing and thriving Cromwell. Later we drove to Johns­ free from danger as they were never were apparent on every side. town's Castle. A beautiful lake lies be­ sure when the tide would advance still I remember "Wexford as a couoty of fore the castle here, and beyond it a further upon them. Eventually it did gardens. Some years ago an enterpris­ second and a third lake, and there are advance, and they were obliged to ing priest encouraged the care of gar­ walks with countle s flowering shrubs. abandon the island. He pointed to a dens and gave prizes for ~he best flowers. Tt has all the charm and beauty of an narrow, lonely strip of land Iunning out His influence still remams. All along Irish demesne, and each of these that into the open sea. "You write," he the coast road that runs out from Ross­ one visits seems to have a unique attrac­ said to me thoughHully. "If ever you lare and looks back to \Vexford, there tion of its own. write a book you ought to "rite it there. are beautiful gardens. Inland the fronts Swans, with their young, floated fr

and Canada. .\nother prominent Irish­ McKenna. Altogether the vessel will North German Lloyd Enterprise. American to arrive last month was Mr. land 300 passengers at Galway. John J. ~Iurphy. president of the Ameri­ The orth German Lloyd Co. are can Irish Hi tori al Society. carryinO' a large number of distinguished On the 17th July Mr. J. T. Hogan For Sale at Culdaff. Co. Donegal. passengers to Ireland this sea on.. La t of the Company' Boston Offi~e wil! .con­ month Mr. Maurice Kavanaugh arrived by duct a special party of IrIsh vIsitors this line. Mr. Kavanaugh represents a Up-to-date Business Premises suitable for syndi~ate. booked from New England by the Hotel. Farm attached. Good fishing on U.S. newspaper . He intends River running through Farm. For full specl~1 "Karlsruhe." The" Karlsruhe," which doing a series of articles on Ir;­ will can at Galway, win also carry a particulars apply to Mrs. McColgan. Culdaff· land which will appear III more than 1;>0 newspapers throughout the nited States large party under the leadership of fr. 263 IRISH TRAVEL. July, 1929.

• STEAMS"'HIPS - RAILVVAYS - HOTELS - EXPRESS. TO AND FROM COBH DIRECT. The only route which provides com­ plete steamships. trains and hotels under one management throughout. Through bookings to New Zealand and Australia connecting with the Canadian Australasian Line. For safety of funds when travelling ~ ~ carry CT~a~:H~~s' ~h~~~~cs. Express ~ CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. rt 10 Westbourne Place, COSH. ~ ~~ ~~ ~~ ~~~::(,0 TRAt"olSPO

Monthly Competitions for Articles and Photographs. BOOKS AND CAMERAS.

URING the months of July and AUg'ust, the Editor of 3. Standish O'Grady: 111ISII Tn \VEL, through the kindness of The Talbot The Cuculain Cycle. 3 vols. D Press, Ltd., and Messrs. Thos. Mason & Sons, will Finn and his Companions. offer prizes of books and cameras for articles and photographs 4. Thos. F. O'Rahilly, ~1.A.: dealing with aspects of .holiday in Ireland. Danta Gradha. An Anthology of Irish Love Poetry. Articles. DanfhocaiI. Irish Epigrams in Verse. 5. M. J. ~IacManus: The authors of the ix best articles dealing with any aspect of Dublin Diversions. holidaying in Ireland will receive their choice of any of the " So this is Dublin !" books or groups of books mentioned hereunder. A Green Jackdaw. Articles must not exceed 300 words. Songs. 6. Seumas 0 Kelly: The latest date for receiving entries for the July Competition Waysiders. Storie of Connacht. will be 31st July, 1929. The Golden Barque. Articles should be addressed to "Irish Travel" Holiday Jack B. Yeats: Competition, 14/15 Lower O'Connell Street, Dublin. Life in the West of Ireland. The Editor's decision on all matters relating to the competi­ tion must be accepted as final. Photographs. 'While every care will be taken to ensure the safety of A prize of a Zeiss Ikon Roll Film Tengor Camera, fitted with special type M. front and Goerz Anastigmat Lens, and taking manuscripts. the Editor will not be responsible for articles the standard size Roll Films, 3* 2·k, will be p:iven for the best mislaid or lost in the post. scenic or holiday photograph received by the Editor on or Unsuccessful articles will be returned to competitors only on before 31st July. receipt of stamped addressed envelopes. A condition of entry will be that the copyright of the winning 1. J. Crampton Walker: photograph will pass to the Irish Tourist Association, Inc. Irish Life and Landscape. The Editor's decision must be accepted as final. Reproductions of examples of the work of Irish artists Photo!l:raphs shoulrl be adrlressed to " Irish Travel" Holiday representative of the 20th century. Competition, 14/]5 Lower O'Connell Street, Dublin. 2. Aodh de Bhicam : Unsuccessful photographs will be returned to competitors Gaelic Literature Surveyed, with extracts and translations. only on receipt of stamped addressed envelope. 264 July, 1929. I RI SH TRAVEL. LAHINCH AND MALBAY. 'By G. C. STA CPOOLE.

to state that \\,hen this was excavated no key was found. Had it been di covered, the legend goes on La a' 'ert, the city would at once have risen from the water, and become the property of the finder I From Liscannor a hort run brings the motorist to the magnificent Cliffs of ::\loher, which rise like a \\"all more than 650 feet from sea-level. Less ImO\\"n, but almost equally striking, are the cliffs at Hag's Head; the latter being so named from its resemblance to 1 rather unattractive fem,lle countenance. 'rhe stor\' goes that the name of the originnl of this portrait wa' :\1al, and that, ha.ving fallen in love with a hero, she pursued him from thi" Rpot to the "'efiternmoRt cnd of Cbre. To escape her he 1 ared on to the little island dose to Loop Head; and ~lal, endeavouring La follow, fell into the se,l and W,lS drowned. To this too affec­ tionate lady ~1albay, near Sp,mifih Point, ow's it,; [Author. Photo] The Golf Course at Lahinc1l. name. The rlaces last mentioned are eafiilv reached from Lahinch by rail or car. Spanish Poi~t is known a' _\.HI~CR is kno\\"n to "ol£er the wide \\'orld over; the scene of one of the .\rmada ship\\Tecks; and the L but to many \\,ho are not golfers the place is ,l 1,'1',1"e of the Yictimfi of the hi toric storm are till paradise. For the motorist, cyclist and pede trian pointed out. The fiPOt ifi quiet, but not \\'ithout its there are good roads and ple,lsant \\'alk ; for the arti t tlttractions; and during the summer months it white- and photographer the grand coast and leaping \\"twos \\"ashed cotblges ar usu<1lly occupied by- yi~itor provide endless subjects for pictures; and for the per­ son who desires nothing more than rest and quiet, there are the yello\\- sands and lo\v cliffs near the vil­ lage, where many a delightful, htz~' haul' (;an be en­ joyed. :From the sandhill;;, carpeted \"ith bright pansie and trefoils, one of the loveliest sea-views in Ireland is to be seen. \YeRt"'ard lie the broad _\.tlantic, its long, white rollers ceasel . sly- brellking on the strand: to the left, running for 'everal miles under a ridge of uplands, is the 10\,- coa t of Liscannor Bay, along which rises in places the blue smoke of the kelp­ burning so extensively carried on by the poor folk ('f the district. To the right are the little fi,;hing village and mediaeval ca tle of Liscannor, and near the point beyond them a patch of \\·hit foam marks the reef where, according to legend, once 1'0 e the lost City of . Author. Kilstapheen. Photo] The Strand at La1>inc1>. Thi place was said to have been s,vallO\\"ed up by' \Yithin ea y walking distance of Lahinch are the a tidal ,vave early in the ninth century; and many half-fallen Castle of Dough, the ruined Church of Kil­ stories have been't<>ld of fishermen who, sailing over macreeh.\", the villag of Ennistymon, where the River the pot, could heal' its church bells ringing beneath Inagh ftllls in a series of pr tty cascades over rocky the water, and smell its f1o\ver,V meadO\vs. ~ T ither ledge, and the charming little wooded glens and sound nor scent boded ill to anyone; but the person "'<1 terfall of ~1oy. who had the misfortune to Re it submerged to\\'el" and spires was doomed to certain death ,,'ithin a ,,·eek. It onl.\" remains to add that Lahinch, though situ­ The golden key of the city \Va reputed to have been ated in " the next parish to America," is not at all buried in the grave of the warrior Conan on Slieve diffi 'ult of access, being readily reached by rail or road Cnllan, not far away; but it is perhaps superfluous from any other part of Ireland. 265 IR ISH TRAVEL. July, 1929.

The Beauties of Kenmare-cont. -by mountainous paths, past the great bulk of Man­ game, far more perilous than shooting down the seals gerton and the wooded slopes of Tore, to the Cascade, which came on shore to finish off the surfeit of mackerel which gets its name from that mountain, just as it and herring; or visiting the islands nearby in search of drains its never-ceasing waters from the same fruitful variegated marble, red and white, purple and green, source. Thence by the high road to Killarney and the r~mains which might furnish embellishments to the mansions lakes. But if it is late, and there only the of St. J ames' quare and to the choir of St. Paul's hour of sunset, that sight itself rewards many a day's Cathedral. travelling and affords a fitting prologue to the still more splendid 'cenes of the morrow. 'Ihe peace of these industrious people was broken in 1688. From all sides the warlike members of the -~ native race gathered to besiege them. The last re­ 1?..ingabella, CO. Cork-cont. mains of a tribal society which had been thrust into A race to the ferry boats, ,,,ith our baggage and these ,,,estern peninsulas by the Xorman lords had chattels, and once again the Irish jaunting cars are not been utterly destroyed afte~' the Desmond Hebel­ hailed. Everybody is hilarious, and nobody has any lion, and there still lingered the remembrance of an money, with the result that Pat and his companion independent state. The settlers took refuge in a threaten to leave us there; but we have not been to house which stood on a rocky peninsula, resolved to Blarney for nothing! and soon their good old Irish die in defending their boats and buildings, their natures come uppermost, and with many avowals of granaries and furnaces. Having erected a wall of turf I.O.L. 's, drive us back once more to the station, fourteen feet in height and t'lyelve in thickness, they good-humouredly paining us in " 'Vc won't go home gathered in both arms and provisions. The sevent....­ until morning, " at the came time nearly landing us in five fighting men then elected their governors, to a ditch, so much did they laugh at our wit and frolic. whom every member of the society swore allegiance. The whi tIe of the last train to Cork just ,,-ent off For some weeks this small commonwealth held out as we ru hed to the carriages and tumbled in "pell before a means of escape was accorded. Finally the mell," knocking the porter off his feet in our mad whole community evacuated its fort and embarked rush, at the same time stopping our ears to his flowery on a vessel which carried them safely to Bristol. speech! - Ninety years later Kenmare was again the centre Tired, but exceedingly happy, we reached Cork forty of a considerable fishery on the coast of Kerry. Lord minutes later, and before parting for our final destina­ Shelburne (1737-1805) lived there until he became fL tions gave solemn promises to each other for a Tenewal Cabinet Minister, took up his re idence in Berkeley of our" happy picnic" nt Ringabella trand. Square, advocated Parliamentary Reform, and in July, ~ 1782, kis ed hands as George Ill. 's Prime Mini tel'. In the Veise Country-cont. Before these events he had a plan for improving the beautiful spot, with its wonderful old round tower lot of the poorer tenants on his vast Ken-y 'tate of and its relics of early pagan and Christian archreology. 150,000 acres. It was to build ten cabins, and annex Like Ring, it stands on the margin of the sea, but is ten acres to each cabin, rent free for twenty-one years; even more sheltered. Several roads lead from here and to form twenty-acred allotments for the parks to into Clashmore and Youghal, each having its own the town of Kenmare. In this way he attracted new particular interest. settlers and proved himself a benevolent landowner. Another pleasant trip is from Ardmore to Monatrea, To-day Kenmare is an ideal place from which to a beautiful quiet spot at the mouth of the Tiver, explore South Kerry and its magnificent mountain facing Youghal, and from there into Youghal and ranges. Before you take the road to Derrygarriff, step along the Blackwater (the Irish Rhine) into Cappo­ aside to look at Cromwell's Bridge, a curious struc­ quin, and then on to beautiful Lismore. This drive ture which he neither built nor destroyed, and yet to along by the banks of the Blackwater must not be this day there are several of these old arches in the missed when visiting Co. Waterford. Here there is a county with a mysterious past. "When you have complete change from the rugged scenery of the coast mounted for six miles and reached the Windy Gap, line-the river flows slowly and stately, parts are there lies before you the whole massive range of the heavily wooded, and the almost riotous undergrowth Macgillycuddy's and the Owenreagh River flowing of shrubs and bushes, together with the silence and below-peacefully in contrast with the hurly-burly at great WInes , lend the air of a primeval forest. the Gap. The road runs on past Galway's Bridge and the Upper Lake, through changing scenes of a HEWETT'S WE can supply you with Travel Tickets wild and rugged nature. It is the main road to Kil­ TRAVEL larney. There is another way, a track rather, which .AGENCY from Anywhere to Anywhere. make your an adventurous traveller might take if he found him­ (iO) Hotel Reservations and relieve you of all self abandoned bv char-a-banc and motor car. This 'D'Olier Street. worries connected with Travel. way would lead him-not astray, if carefully followed 'D,·bUn. 266 July, 1929. IRISH TRAVEL.

White Star Line's part in Irish Tourist Catholic Club. rrhey will be conducted by Dr. Rosier Biggs of Washington, and the Rev. Francis J. Har­ Traffic. ney will act as chaplain. The White Star Line will continue this year the" Out-of-Season " tour' which HE White Star Line is having a remarkable proved so successful last year. In this connection a response to its efforts t{) bring American visi­ party of tourists will arrive at Cobh on the" Cedric " T tors to Ireland. The latest accounts from from Boston on eptember 22nd next. _~merica indicate that bookings in all clas es have more than realised expectations in the number of "~mericans coming to Irish port by the line. There is every prospect of the 15 per cent. increase in the number of Americans who visited Ireland last year being surpassed. Special organised tours are far in The Broadway excess of last year, and thi uugurs well for the future of tourist traffic to this country. Quite recently the White Star Liner" Baltic" landed 566 passengers at Soda Fountain Cobh. These ,,,ere accompanied by nIl'. Michael J. Limited Kelly, the company's Irish travel expert in New York. The White Star Line are fully alive to the advantages which Galway offer;; a a port of call, and on July 21st 8 LOWER the s.s. "Doric" will arrive there from ::\Iontreal Most Central with a party of 'Vesterns from the ~Iid-Western O'CONNELL and Up-ta-date tatcs aud Canadian, under the auspices of the STREET DUBLIN Soda Fountain, Tea Room and Restaurant in Ireland

STRING BAND daily from 4.30 to 10 p.m.

Also at Esplanade, Bray, Co. Wicklow

.. If you are interested in Al,Jine and Herbaceous Plants, Roses. Seed Potatoes, Hand made Lin~erie, fine Em­ broidery \York and rochet, Donegal Tweed and hand kmt Stockmgs, also Wheelbarrows and Wheelstuff. call [In last month's issue of " Irish Travel" this picture ap· at Llssadell off the Sli~o Bundoran Road Monday till peared in an article by Hilda M. Porter wrongly entitled Saturday morl1lng. Petrol Pump and Repair Shop for "Parknasilla." The picture was taken from the slip of Motors. Manager, Lissadell, Sligo." the Eccles Hotel, Glengarriff, at the beautiful Cork resort·l

...... - . DAIMLER AND CHRYSLER SERV~~~,.::::! Tourists desiring to Travel in Ireland, with the maximum of comfort, may do so by availing of our ervice. Our luxurious Daimler and Chry ler Cars, in charge of skilled and courteous chauffeurs, may be engaged for any time or distance-A Mile or a Thousand Miles LIST OF SELECTED TOURS ON APPLICATION GRESHAIvI MOTOR HIRE SERVICE (Rear of Gresham Hotel) UPPER O'CONNELL STREET, DUBLIN TELEPHONE: DUBLIN 800 LIAl\1 TOBI~. Proprietor. TELEGRAMS "PRIVACY, DUBLIN." ...... •...... ••...•...... 267 1 R 1 S H TRAVEL. July, 1929. Ireland of the Welcomes. By D. L. KELLEHER.

The following are extracts from D. L. Kelleher's nelO Guide 13001(. Copies Call be obtained from the ptlblishers, the Irish Tourist Association, at 1/- 1lelt.

Ballyshannon of the Salmon and the The Connemara Ponies. Fairies. Connemara the pony is the real friend of man, ALLYSHA~~ON in it hollo\\', half on the river I almost " one of the family." The remote and and half on the sea, is a rugged, lonely ragged often nearly inacce sible home. teads would be lost B Ivater and bare-beach sort of a town. The without their brave, intelligent and docile pony, who fairies, if they had mackintoshes, might be expected will easily e:arry two men, one in front and the other to frolic there and the heroes ,,'ould claim it as their on the pillion behind. The Connemara ponies, despite own, since it sits like a town in a poem between two the sugg stion of unity in the name, do not form one waterfalls astride a river and looking to,,'ards the sea. breed, but are rather of five or ix types, of which the You cro the big bridge and look, one side, at the Spanish (Andalu ian) and the Clydesdale are notable. endles ocean and, the other, at the broken-glass The Andalusian type is probably the oldest bre d, u unll,\' of a yellow, nun colour and about thirteen "'ater for ever gI;tkring III the river rapid'. hands high. It has been said that these ponies were On the bridge, a" on all bridge , you expect to find bred from undersized Spanish horses, and, alterna­ a slab commemorating John Nobody who presided rrt tivel,", that the fir t pony in Connemara was intra­ its opening in the .:;ear insignificance, .~men. ~Ia.vor­ due d in the rescue of a ,nee:k d ship of the .\rmada and Councillors are human; they can be forgiven for on the e coasts. This picturesque tale may, however, leaving their names to mystery and history on half be untrue, sinc:e there must have been ponie in the bridges of the world. Let it not outrage their Connemara long before the Armada. vanity too much that their tablets are seldom read, or, if so, only in the interval of striking matches on them to light the passing cigarette. But lye have said that Ballyshannon evokes the BURNS~LAIRD fairies and the heroes by its site and its -etting. Bettc'r LINE. than all, the fairies and the hero are at hand. For on this bridge the slab does not commemorate the THE DIRECT ROUTE local Mayor or Councillor, but one \Villiam Allingham, a merchant in ftliri " a Ballysbannoll man who intro­ BETWEEN dnecd to the "'ol'1d . ome of the mo>;L comptmionable SCOTLAND and IRELAND " little people" of all time. The Bridge at Bally­ BELF AST oia ARDROSSAN (Royal Mail Route) shannon thus de erve" the bure1. It c:elebrates a oia BROOMIELAW (Direct ServIce) poet just wher a poet Ivould love to be remem­ DUB LIN ~;~ g~~~~~~K bered. LONDOf\4DERRY ~;: g~~~~~~K

.\nd the herae.? L t u. present Ireland's 1110..;1 pi tur sque onc, the great gtlOl-breaker, soldier, rebd and and traveller, Hugh Roe 0 'Donnell, Prince, "'arrir)l' ENGLAND IRELAND and at la t exile out of Tyrconne1. Here he is nOlI', LONDONDERRY oia HEYSHAM only 22, for the second time fm escaped " convict " Through Booking between the 1:111 The Com"any'5 Guide Book. Time out of iron in Dublin Castle. He has made his way Pdocipal Stations in Scodl1nd ~~ Table. and Fa, e List, may be or England and Ireland. obtained on application. cri. s·cross throuah Ireland by river nnd road home to Passengers and their Luggage Goods and Live Stock carried Bnllyshannon. "The castle IH1 a noble dwelling and sut.iect to the condiuons specified in the Company' 5 Sadina Bills a princely residenc:e of his ftlluil.\·. He rested there for the present until the country assembled (e\'ery BURNS AND LAIRD LINES LIMITED onc who was in his neighbourhood) I\,here he was." 52 ROBERTSON STREET. GLASGOW. C.2. But in the end, poor fellow, he diedlonel.v in Spain. 9 DONEGALL PLACE. BELFAST. 16 WESTMORELAND STREET, DUBLIN. Ballyshannon of the poet, the hero, the scenery and PRINCE'S QUAY, LONDONDERRY the salmon, is a town indeed to see and to savour. 268 July, 1929. IRISH TRAVEL.

Driving Through Connemara-cont. country lay before us, desolate in bad weather, but now full of sun hine. The mountains had the heen and softness of green velvet in their colouring, with hadows of purple in their clefts. From the bridge below Delphi Lodge there is a view which one tries vainly to capture for ever. After the lonely pass by Doolough Lake, with its shadow and fearsomeness, the country becomes wide and cheerful, with a river running gaily through stretehe of boer cotton, yellow flag and ragged robin. To th south rises the Connemara Mountains-the T,,' lv' Pins, loveliest of peaks, and on every side mountains and again mountains. From this point our way took us by the Killarie', the long arm of sea that runs so far inland. \Ye passed Aasleagh 'Waterfall, and came in the fullnes.s of the June afternoon to Leenane, a tiny place which consists of an excel! nt hotel and a post office. Now, AnIRISH hoLida~ Leenane Hotel is one which wc may safely commend even to English visitors. It is under the mountain', One that charms the eye,rests the beside Killary Bay, boasts garden (such a charming mind, invigorates the body - in w'aterside garden, too) and garage, and the place is fact a general tonic at a cheap a centre for ,valking, climbing, fishing, and every sort cost-what more can you desire? of happiness that Connemara can give. \\'e only had time to take tea, get in petrol, and Then choose a holiday resort in go on our w'ay up the long mountain road to\\'ard,:; the . A few Clifden..\.t six o'clock on this June evening the earth famous resorts are: seemed oaked in sunshine. 'rhe Twelve Pins took to themselves all shades of blue and purple as the ~arney ~ee sun declined. The Diamond Mountain, true to it>: name, glittered in the evening light. The car ran Lahinch Mallaranny through the 10\'el.\, country al}out K~'lemore and passed Miltownmalbay Tramore the Ca"tle. the Com-ent now of the nuns from Ypres. Wicklow By Renvyle and Letterfrack we went, our hearts yearning to stop and see the places we mu t leave ,vith so s\\'ift a glance. Moderate" All-in" Hotel Charges \Ye reached Clifden b~' eight in the evening. I was longing for an uninterrnpted view of the Atlantic. I Circular Tour Tickets from Euston or Paddington, embracing Cork, wanted to look out at America, but although we started Killarney, Connemara and Wicklow, to take a narrow road that ran to the sea, I grew give tourists the choice of alternative anxious about the time and I turned the car toward,:; routes and there is also a wide selec­ Recess. The sunset was behind u" now and the air tion of cheap local Tours. 'n1S fre<;h from the Atlantic. There were gold clouds IllustratedGuides and travel informa­ like the golden fleece above the Twelve Pins, and the tion free from London Midland and loughs "'ere opals. Scottish Railway, Euston: Great We t<>ok our supper by the road. ideo What food i!'; Western Railway, Paddington; Great ever so good as the out-<>f-doors meal? Southern Railways, Kingsbridge, Dublin (who will also supply par­ It wa" not until 10.30 p.m. that we reached ilIaam ticulars of local tours and cheap rates Cross, that solitary lovely !';pot, compo ed of a tiny for motors accompanying passengers). station and a . mall, pleasant hotel.

Convenient Routes HEWETT'S WE can supply Rolls-Royce. Daimler or TRAVEL other First Class cars for Sightseeing in FISHGUARD TO ROSSLARE "AGENCY Dublin or Tours in Ireland. HOLYHEAD TO KINGSTOWN (ill (Dun LaoehaiTt) D'Olier

269 I RI S H. T R A VEL. July, 1\:129.

Asparagus Onions Peas Celery Asparagus Leeks Spinach French Beans in Branch The Largest Packers of Canned Vegetables in the World Sole Distributors for Irish Free State and Northern Ireland: THE BELGICA HIBERNIA TRADING CO., 7 Crow Street, Dublin

PHONE: 4111 } TELE GRAM'S: BEDROCK DUBLIN PRICE LISTS ON APPLICATION

270 Bush Hotel, Carrick·on·Shannon. Metropole Hotel, Cork. Jury's Hotel, Dublin. Shelbourne Hotel, Dublin.

Rosapenna Hotel, Donegal. Central Hotel, Bundoran.

Royal Hlbernian Hotel, Mongan's Hotel, Carna. Dublin.

Gweedore Hotel, Donegal. Salthill Hotel, Monkstown, Dublin.

View from Ross's Hotel, Dun Laoghaire. Standard Hotel, Dublin. Clydagh Hotel, GreYstones.

. , - .- ~--... -- - • ~.1 .,.J- ...., .",...-.... I ~.i!( . • ,,* I \''' .-1

st. Ann's Hill Hydro, Cork. Leenane Hotel, Galway. Great Northern Hotel, Roltrevor. Wynn's Hotel, Dublin. Lounge, Grand Hotel, $1Il!O, IR ISH '1.' RA VEL . July, 1929. IRELAND'S LEADING HOTELS. INDEX TO ADVERTISERS IS TillS SECflOS OF " IRISH TRAVEL." Cork. PAGE Dublin. PAGE Galway-contd. PAGE Jfetropole llotel 275 Shelbourne llotel 273 Corrib llotel, Oughteral'd 277 St. Ann's llill llydro 276 Jury's llotel 273 Leitrim. Royal llibemian llotel ... 273 Bush llotel, Carriclc-on-ShanllOll. .. 277 Down. Salthill llotel, MonlcstoIrn 273 Rosslare. Great Northern llotel, Rostrel:or 274 Standard llotel 274 Strand llotel 275 WYlln's llotel ... 274 Sligo. Donegal. RObs's llotel, Dun Laoghaire 275 Grand llotel. See below. Rosapenna IIotel. See below. Galway. Wicklow. Great Northern llotel, Bll1ldoran 274 Leenane llotel ... 276 Clydagh llotel, Greystones 275 GlOeedore IIotel 276 Mongan's llotel 277 The Royal llotel, Glendalough... 277 For Great Southern Railways Hotels see back page of magazine......

ROSAPENNA HOTEL, Co. Donegal,

IS the centre Excellent roads, ample garage with modern service, inspection pit, Resident Engineer, accessories. for touring the IMPORTANT-Import your car by Londonderry-St. Johnstown getting necessary papers stamped at BOTH places. The A.A., DONEGAL R.A.C., R.I.A.C. will arrange and advise. Championship Golf Links designed by H. S. Colt ; HIGHLANDS Putting Course, Tennis, Sea-bathing and boating. Bracing climate, Geology, History, Botany, An­ tiquity, Nature unadorned. Salmon and Trout on several loughs and rivers free to Residents. Sea fishing. Exchange facilities: Travellers' cheques and coupons on Banks, Agencies, etc., negotiated. TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS Accommodation for 120 guests. Private suites. "ROSAPENNA, CARRIGART." Private bathrooms.

......

GRAND HOTEL, SLIGO NEWLY DECORATED AND EQUIPPED IN THE MOST UP - TO - DATE TYLE

LOUNGE BAR - ELECTRIC LIGHT - MOTOR BUS Visitors assured of the best Hotel comforts and attention

TELEGRAMS: It GRAND, SLIGO" PROPRIETOR: P. S. COONEY

: :

272 IRISH TRAVEL.

'II!!1I1'!I!'!I!!!IIiilliilllillii lI!i!l!i!I!i!IIiliiliI, "III!!i"II" !llii!1Wliili! Ill!! !!Ill'" 11' !!iII """"~ · ~~~.~.~~ ····i ·······~~i~~~~~·· ., FIRST for BA1'\QUETS COMFORT DINNERS. CUISINE alld MEETINGS. Etc. SERVICE JURYIS HOTEL & g~~~~~E RESTAURANT DUBLIN.

: NEW AMERICAN BAR and OYSTER SALOON . in Basement. GRILL ROOM in Basement RESTAURANT-Ground Floor TEA LOUNGE-Ground Floor FACI:'\G THF. lll-:AL"TIFCL STF.PHI:.::"'S GREES PARK. COFFEE ROOM-Firot Floor ...... ~.~\JJ.. ~.A.~~~.~!.IN.~.~?().~::-:-.F.ir .•t..F~~.~j SHELBOURNE HOTEL A la carte and Table d'Hote Meals Afternoon Teas a. peeiality THE PREMIER FIRST-CLASS HOTEL RESTAURANT OPEN ON SUNDAYS ; . HOT AND COLD WATER and ORCHESTRA Suites with Private Baths and Toilet TELEPHONE IN BEDROOMS in Lift to all Floors RESTAURANT Rooms with hot and cold running water Haitdre'ling Saloon 1 to 3 Telegrams: .. JURYS DUBLIN" Telephone: No. 5511 in Moderate TEA LOUNGE For Tariff J. W. MANN1NG. Charges 4 to 7 apply Manager Managing Director......

...... - ...... - .

TELEGRAM::; :- TELEPHONE: TELEPHO.E: C. SALTOTELJ DUNLAOGHAIRB: •• HIREf

ROYAL HIBERNIAN SALTHILL HOTEL, HOTEL. MONKSTOWN, co. DUBLIN. Five minutes drive irem I{inu,town Pier

Standing in its own grounds within 10 minutes of Dublin by train. The The most up-to-date First Class Premier First Class Seaside Hotel in : Hotel in Dublin. Ireland. Central Heating throughout; Private Suites. Bedrooms with Bath­ room. Run in conjunction with and under same Management as Royal CENTRALLY FRENCH Hibernian Hotel. Meals interchangeable SITUATED RESTAURANT

...... : ...... •...... ••.•...... ••...... •••.•.•.•.•••• 273 I R TSH '1' R A VEL. July. 1929.

Pbone 897 (5 lines). \Vires; l: \Vyno's Hotel, Dublin." THE Wynn's Hotel STANDARD HOTEL, and Restaurant (Fully Licensed) HARCOURT STREET Lower Abbey Street, Dublin Completelv rebuilt in 1926, is fitted and equipped according to the latest ideas in hotel architecture, tor the greater comfort, convenience and safety of guests. lOO ROOMS, HOT AND COLD WATER. 10 BATHROOMS, ELECTRIC LIFT, CENTRAL HEATING, EXTERNAL FIRE ESCAPE.

RESTAURANT AND GRILL ROOM, COMMODIOUS LOUNGE, SPLENDID BEDROOMS, DINING The Most Comfortable ROOMS, SEPARATE TABLES, COFFEE ROOM. BAR LUNCHEONS AND DINNERS - a la Carte and Hotel 1n Dublin. Table d'Hote, Noted for its excellent Cuisine and Wines UNLICENSED. POPULAR TARIFF

Situated a few yards off main thoroughfare, enjoys complete Iimmunity from traffic and street noises at night time I Lift. Free Central Garage. DUBLIN'S MOST CENTRAL J Heating. No Tips. AND UP-Ta-DATE HOTEL

:....LlllDlJJ1lliiililiiiilil'i1!llIi!lIi!i!lii!i! !ill "Iii! "iI'''''' ii"!ii!!!ii '''i!i!!!i!i!i!lII1!!!iilitiiii'iili !Ill",,' •.1'",,1,

BUNDORAN ROSTREVOR DONEGAL BAY, CO. DONEGAL Carlin~ford Bay, Mourne Mountains Western Seaboard, IRELAND CO. DOWN, NORTHERN IRELAND On open Atlantic Equable Temperature Warmed by the Gulf Stream "An Old English riUage set in a Norwegian Fjord"

GREAT NORTHERN HOTEL GREAT NORTHERN HOTEL (Owned and managed by Great Northern Railway, Ireland) (Owmld and managed by Great Northern Railway, Ire/amI) ACCOMMODATION FOR 100 GUESTS ACCOMMODATION FOR 60 GUESTS Own 18-hole Golf Course. Tennis, Splendid Fly Fishing on ~felvinand Erne, Enchanting Scenery Golf Tennis Hill Climbing Fly Fishing Motoring Grounds GARAGE SEPARATE LOCK-UPS SF-A AND FRESH WATER BATrlS, ORCHESTRA GARAGE PRIVATE LOCK-UPS BATHS B-\LLROOM

Tariff -Guide from Resident Manageress Tariff-Guide from Resident Manageress

!!ii!i!"Ii' liilitlliiliil!ili !ii!!i!!iil! !!ill"il.

274 Ju7y, 1929. IR ISH TRAVE J.I .

DUN LAOGHAIRE ( Kingstown) Co. Dublin. Ross's Hotel, Ltd., FACING PIER e:f HARBOUR

CUISINE COURTEOUS EXCELLE TT SERVICE CORK. MODERATE RATES

BOATING BATHING TENNIS HOTEL METROPOLE GOLF MOTORING Finest unlicensed Hotel in Ireland

ELECTRIC ELEVATOR AND ALL MODERN CONVENIENCES Under personal direction of MRS. COLDWELL, Free Garage for Inclusive Terms 30 cars. 16/- a day. Managing Director. Bus meets all trains

TL:LEPHO~E 195 A:\D 196. Telegrams: Phone TELEGR.-\'IS: " ROSSOTEL. Dus L.-\OGHAIRE.' .. Hotel Metropale. Cork." 800 (3 linesl.

...... Clydagh Hotel, BEFORE LEAVING IRELAND Greystones, Co. Wicklow. COME TO THE

S TAN DI ~ G on 20 acres of beautiful STRAND HOTEL, pleasure grounds with private path to the South Beach. Garage for 8 cars, 3 Tennis Courts, Croquet Lawn and Ballroom are all ROSSLARE nee to residents. Separate Tables, Private Sitting Rooms, Children's Dining and Play Room. Excellent Cuisine with abundant supplies from Gur own Gardens and Poultry Farm. Invalid Cookery a Speciality. Elec­ tric Light. Modern Sanitation and Hot Water 5 y s t em. Dances, Tennis Tournaments, Bathing and Walking Parties, Pic-nics and ?\!otor Trips organised during the Season. Moderate Terms with Special Quotations for Family and Organised Parties. R.I.AC. and AA Appointments. Fully Licensed. Tariff and Booklet Post Free. Convenient to G.W.R. Steamers. Splendid Golf. TELEPHONE GREYSTONES 34. Tennis (3 Hard Courts). Putting Greens. Billiards. Bathing and Dancing Excellent Cuisine and Wines. The Clydagh successfully combines the Country R.I.A.C. and A.A. appointments. Garage free. Petrol and Oils Stocked. House atmosphere with all the conveniences of a lVires :-" KellYJ Strand:' PhD". :-Rosslar. No. 1. Modern Hotel...... : 275 IRISH TRAVEL. July, 1\)29.

{ ••••.•.•••••••••••••••••••••.•.•••••• '.0 ~ ••••••••.•••••.•••••.•••••.••••••..•• _- •••••••••••.••••••••.••..•.• - ..••• -- •••••••• - •••.••• - .•••••..•.•••••

GWEEDORE HOTEL, CO. DONEGAL.

HIS Hotel is surrounded by some of the best scenery in the County. It stands in its own grounds, has 'T its own farm and gardens. Visitors are assured of an abundance of vegetables, milk, eggs, etc. Free salmon and trout (white and brown) fishing. Skilled Motor Mechanics are on the premises. Petrol, Oils and Tyres in Stock. Golf 4 miles. Tariff and further particulars upon application to :­ W. H. HUNT, Proprietor.

...... -_ - .

KILLARY BAY, ST. ANN'S HYDRO CONNEMARA BLARNEY NEAR CORK Leenane Hotel Comfortable up-to-date Hotel. The Hotel overlooks Killary A.A. R.I.A.C. Bay and is in the centre of the finest Connemara Scenery. Garages, Motors for Fully equipped Baths under super­ Hire. Good Salmon and vision of Resident Medical Officer Trout Angling. Sea Fishing.

Grouse Moor. 7 miles from Cork. I mile from Muskerry Golf Course, 18 Holes. Tennis. Weekly Best Route-Dublin, Athlone, Galway,Leenane Terms from 4 Guineas. Electric Light. Free Garage. Excellent Cuisine.

TELEGRAMS: RAILWAY STATION: PROSPECTUS FROM SECRETARY. U McKEOWN, LEENANE." MAAMCROSS.

276 July, 1929. IRISH TRAVEL.

HOTEL CORRIB CARNA, LATE RAILWAY HOTEL, CO. GALWAY. OUGHTERARD

Just completed renovation and enlarge­ ment. Most Modern Equipped Hotel Mongan's Hotel in the West. Now 3 story with running water in all rooms. Electric Light. Latest Sanitation. Lough Corrib, quite First class Fishing and close to Hotel, is the best free fishing Shooting. Thousands of in Ireland. Last year's record for anglers from this Hotel for one day acres of rough shooting. (13 boats) 197 trout weighing 230lbs. Mountain, River, Lake Garage. Golf Links. and Sea. Free Garage. E. A. SWEENEY, Proprietor. TELEGRAMS :- ]. W. MONGAN, Proprietor.

• SWF.ENRY. HOTEL. OUGHTERARD 11

"i!'!iii!i " ill! "i1'II' it!!!! ill i!!!iiil!illi CARRICK - ON - SHANNON GLENDALOUGH CO. WICKLOW BUSH HOTEL Fully Licensed

Appointed by A.A. and R.I.A.C.

Convenient Stop for Motorists The Royal Hotel from Dublin to Donegal, Sligo, Mayo. Belfast to Mayo, A Model Hotel in the midst of Galway and the South the Wicklow Mountains close to Seven Churches and St. Kevin's Bed TELEPHONE 14.

ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT M. E. McDERMOTT, - PROPRIETRESS

...... :

277 IRISH TRAVEL. July, 1929.

GREYSTONES CO. WICKLOW CLERYS RESTAURANT

Ireland's Largest and Most Popular Restaurant.

Only the Best Food supplied. Quick and Courteous Service. Open from 9.30 a.m. to 9.30 p.m. The Grand Hotel Grill Room, Dining Rooms anti Tea Rooms. Luxurious Lounges on all Floors. Ice Cream Soda BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED Fountain. Lifts to all Floors. Every Room Licensed FACING THE SEA CLER Y & CO., LTD., Tennis and Lock up Two Gal Lifnks Garages O'Connell Street, DUBLIN.

' .

Phone Dublin 3644. Head Office :-8 UPPER O' CONNELL STREET. DUBLIN FUREY'S MOTOR TOURS "WE LEAD. OTHERS MA Y FOLLOW." Three years ago Hardy Bros. (Alnwick) ap­ pointed us their agents and discontinued their annual exhibition in one of the leading Dublin hotels. Since then we have represented them with muchsatisfaction to Irish anglers (and visitors) and, we think, with credit to ourselves. Our Fishing Tackle Dept. is now the ren­ dezvous of nearly all Salmon and Trout anglers. The stock carried, in both variety and quality, has never been approached in this country. In addition to Hardy's goods, we have a fine range of Rods, Reels, Lines, Flies, etc., to suit those requiring thoroughly reliable goods at lower prices.

A VISIT WILL BE APPRECIATED CATALOGUES FREE. THE BEST WAY TO SEE IRELAND. Daily Tours. Half-day Sight Seeing Tonrs and Weekly Tonrs by All-weather Coaches. HELYS Contractors to All the principal Tourist Agents and Shipping Companies throughout the world. including Thos. Cook & Son, Ltd., DAME STREET, DUBLIN. and The American Express.

278 july. 1929. IRISH TRAVEL.

Have you tried lnaking "Movies"

The simplest and least expensive way IS with the a ea

"Baby Cine" Movies cost as little and are as easy to make as snapshots-but they are much more fascinating. We shall be happy to demonstrate the "Baby Cine" to you. Lists free. Price from £4-0-0.

From all Recognised Photo Dealers, or OPTICIAN T. H. MASON (ESTABLISHED 1780) 5 and 6 Dame Street (near the Castle), Dublin

A PLEASING AND FASCINATING THE TALBOT PRESS MEMENTO OF IRELAND announces THE GLAMOUR SERIES Illuminating the. highways and by-ways 01 Ireland with Hashes of -0- WIt, humour and Imagination. Vivid and grnrbic to the last degree the volumes. 01 THE GLAMOUR SERIES cal up lor the reader as no lormal hIstory or travel book can do, the spirit 01 the real Irel~nd 01 to-day and .yes~erday-herchequered story, the Inre 01 her land­ scape, the as.pl.ratlons of her p:>ets and patriots, and the indefinable MODELS of TYPICAL IRISH chnrm of a l1VJLlg present that has its rools deep in the remote past. The Glamour of Dublin COTTAGES IN TURF By D. L. KELLEHER. With eight etchings by EstelJe Solomons, containing n, less than fifty~seven mtllnate cameos of old and new Dublin with eight perfect STRONG AND BEAUTIFULLY MADE reproductions of Miss Solomons' work. ' Demy 8vo, cloth extra. 3/6. 3-, 4-, 6/-, 76, 15-, 21­ The Glamour of the West Postage 6d. extra By D. L. KELLEHER. Crown Svc, cloth. 2/6 The Glamour of Belfast Bv H. A. ~1A(CARTA:-< W. HOWE Small 8"0. 2'6 The Glamour of Limerick Fine Art Dealer By A. J. O·IIALLOR.~:-I.

Crown S\'O, cloth. 2 J 6 30 NASSAU ST., DUBLIN Complete Catalogue 01 Books about Irelaud free on application.

The most striking and original Art Shop THE TALBOT PRESS, LTD., in Ireland. Talbot Street Dublin AND ALl. BOOKSELLERS

279 IRISH THAVEL. .July, Hl20.

A CHAIN OF HOTELS

DUBLIN: 1I0TEL and COLLEGE GREEN JURY'S RESTAURA~T GRILL ROOM. COFFEE ROOM. RESTAURANT. TEA LOUNGE. AMERICAN BAR and OYSTER SALOON. Hot and Cold Water and Telephone in every Bedroom. 'Phone No. 5511. Telegrams: ., Jury's Dublin'"

Our Travelling Hint! You will find the The ocean traveller who has ROYAL GEORGE HOTEL, LIMERICK made many Atlantic crossings, A comfortable and convenient stopping-place \\ hen visiting the and who knows what "service" SHANNON ELECTRIFICATION SCHEME really is, travels by the and neighbouring places of interest. HAMBURG-AMERICAN LINE 'PHOSE: LI:\IERICK 7-t. TELEr.RA'IS:" GI~ORGE HOTEL, Lnn:'RICI\.'1 knowing he will obtain that high Telephone No. 2438. Telegrams-" Union Hotel." Belfast standard of comfort and enjoy BELFAST. UNION HOTEL, that sense of well,being. the Family and Commercial, provision of which has earned for the Company its world, DONEGALL SQUARE SOUTH. wide reputation 0 f g i v i n g MISS OWENS. Proprietress. "A SERVICE UNSURPASSED" CLIFF CASTLE HOTEL, DALKEY, co. DUBLIN. Our travelling hint to those who do not yet know what Ideally situated. overlooking Dublin Bay. Mild Winter Resort. 7 minutes from Dun Laoghaire (Kingstown) " Hapag" stands for, is to travel Pier. 20 minutes rail to City. by this Line and learn why the Very Moderate T ..riff. Excellent Cuisine. Every Home Comfort. discriminating voyager does so. Phone O..lkey 88 ASK YOUR LOOAL AGENT! Under entirely New M..n"llement from 1st January. 1926. oP:i~~~Vi~~~.J;·au. Before booking for America, ask Dublin. ORTH STAR HOTEL Fully Licensed. IiO Bedrooms. Most Centr..1 Position. the local Steamship Agent about OMFORT RESTAURANT T I h the special facilities to be obtained LEANLlNESS COFFEl~ IWOM e ep one CIVILITY SMOKING LOUNGE 2110 on (he steamers of the Hamburg, A LA CARTE aad TABLE d'nOTE MEALS. RESTAURANT OPEN ON SUNDAYS American Line: For Tariff. apply Manaller. Telegrams: .. NORSTAR. DUBLIN," EXCELLENT MEALS - COMFORTABLE CABINS - IRISH MATRONS CARRIED - MUSIC - CINEMAS ON BOARD DANCES - CHILDREN'S FESTIVALS. e'c. Every lacility lor celebratina Holy Mass. GOLF LINKS HOTEL, LAHINCH, CO. CLARE. BeautiFully situated on a Cliff overlooking 'he Sea and the Famous Goll Links. Cobh (Queenstown) to Halifax and New York Noted lor its excellent catering. 84 Bedrooms lacing the Se.. Hot and THURINGIA July 23 I -rST LOUIS ... Aug. 18 Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths. Goll. Tennis. Bathing. Fishing. i *WESTPHALlA Aug. 17 I *nHURINGIA Aug. 3\ Carages; Motors rot" Hire. • A 1'0 calling 01 Bo,tan. 't Not calling at rlalifa.". EOMUNO O·OWYER. Proprietor. Galway to Halifax, 80ston and New York rol.phono Lahinch 3. *CLEVELAND ... Aug. 2 • Nut calling al H aU/ox. TAYLOR'S HILL PRIVATE HOTEL, GALWAY. Cobh to Hamburg Sea Bathing. Tennis and Golf Links within easy reach. WESTPHALlA Aug. 4 I CLEVELAND ... Aug. 31 Excellent cuisine. Terms moderate. Garage free. THURINGIA Aug. 18 I WESTPHALlA Sepr. \5 MRS. CHEEVERS. Pro"r:ttrt~ . Cobh to Cherbourg - CLEVELAND ... Aug. 31 I CLEVELAND ... OCI. 10 Galway to Cherbourg and Hamburg. CLEVELAND ... July 20

Apply to WM. HI MULLER &CO. (London) LTD., COSH (Queenstown) or to Principal Passenger Agents We represent all the principal Rail, Steamship and Air Companies

2 0 IRISH '[HA VE"iJ. AUg1tS t, 1929...... R. J. DUGGAN (Jhen rvivlir cowes­ TURF ACCOUNTANT sail6lraigbffor 6umwioe Starting Price on all Races Deposit Accounts a Speciality Credit Accounts opened on Now is the time to bo?k f?r a summer holiday in rrud-wlDter Approved References .... to be able to look forward again to tropical warmth and sun­ Rules on Application shine ... skies of deepest blue and palm-shaded shores .. ... leisurely cruising to lands of ro­ Write to any of my Offices;­ mance and charm ... by the well known cruising Cun.rder 38 STEPHE 'S GREE 'Phones: Dublin 62381/7 (P.B-E.) .. Laconia" (20,000 tons). Telegrams: ' Dulcet," Dublin. WEST INDIES 38 DAME STREET 'Phones: Dublin 2817/8. from Southampton January 16th, Telegrams" Battlement," Dublin. or from Liverpool January 14th. 42 days -- from 100 gns. 36 PARLIAME T STREET 'Phones: Dublin 129/~2. MEDITERRANEAN Telegrams: "\II/inners," Dublin from Southampton March 1st. 25 days from 50 gns. :...... •...... -- - _- . ATLANTIC ISLES & NORTH AFRICA For 'Reliability, Vurability and Covering Power from Southampton March 29th. 16 days -- from 30 gns. - -+- WORLD CRUISING DE LUXE INDESTRUCTIBLE PAINT Round the world cru~s~ by .the FOR 1.1. TERIOR OR EXTERIOR USE 20 000 ton world cruIsing liner "Franconia" from London January th 24th returning to England June 9 . WALLENE WATER PAINT Rates from £430. FOR I:\fTERIOR WALL SURFACES Apply Cunard Line Offices Dublin, Cobh, or Local Agents. STANDARD VARNISHES FOR ALL PURPOSES Manufactured by The Indestructible Paint and Standard Varnish Ld. Cunard WRITE. PHONE OR VISIT A. E. CAIRNS, \Vin~r 24 Lower Abbey Street. Dublin Cruises Telegrams: Telephone: Dublin 2326 "Weatherproof. Dublin."

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2 1 I RI S Jl '1' H AV I~ L , August, 1929, ~§ON @JEJLDOJF CONFECTIONERS· CATERERS Tele hon.e Telephon.e ~ _§ifMM'iln"'''''.· , CI·W-P-'" fRtb'.5serie (})e!geJ eafi' f/3e/ge. ~~~'-..1, LEINSTER S1', 34, DAME ST, ~~eJ DUBLIN. DUBLIN. =='!;~~

W.. represe' t the following companies and firms: DRIVE YOURSELF HIRE SERVICE. HEWETT'S WE HAVE TWO SEATERS. TOURERS AND SALOONS American Express Exprinter Martin Travel FOR HIRE ON THE .. DRIVE YOURSELF" PRINCIPLE. TRAVEL Co. Frames' Tours Bureau AmeropT ravelServ, FBI' C Polytechnic Tours Any period from 12 Hours to 3 Months. • Rates from £1 17 6 .AGENCY Armstrong Tours raneo.. e glqU~ o. Raymond &- Full Tariff on application to Associa.ted Tours George Marster 5 Whitcomb Co. ANDREW J. DOYLE, A.I.M.A.A.,

Sole caterer. Sole caterers

SPRING SHOW BULL SHOW J. E. MILLS, LTD., III

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, 'PHONES 5290-1-2, WIRES: "AMUSEMENrs, DUBLlS." ~ o 0 g The largest and most luxurious Restaurant in Ireland. g 1 The PLAZA ! Sg MIDDLE ABBEY STREET, DUBLIN. &~ ~ The epicure will find a social and artistic correctness 9 g in our service-a stately grace of tea and dinnerware ~ S tbat charmingly belies our moderate charges. • g 0 o 0 9 SPECIAL 0 ~ Everything at Thc Plaza i~ THR EEC 0 U R S E The Restaurant is open daily ~ O expressive of beauty and per- from 12 noon until I a.m·, ?? fcction-all cooking is un(ler L U N C H E 0 N and in addition to the daily ~ the personal upervi~ion of Table (l'Bote there is a 0 { Expert French chefs, 2/ 6 magnificent a. la Carte menn. j ~ooo I 0 00 0000000000

Going to the States? Go the convenient way.

TWO DOORWAYS FROM IRELAND-COB" (Queenstown) or GALWAY

NEXT SAILINGS Galway to NewYork and Cobh to New York. Boston 5·5· " KARLSRUHE" 3rd Au!;. 5.5. " DRESDEN .. 17th Aug. 5.·. " KARLSRUlIE" 31st Aug. 5.5. " DRESDEN .. 14th Sept. 5. 0 •" KARLSRUHE" 28th Sept.

5·S· " KARLSRUHE " 26th Oct.

RATES FROM CORH-' Cabin £30 min•• Tourist Third Cabin £22/5/0 min., Third CI ..s £18/15/0 RATES FROM GALWAY- Cabin £28 min.• Tourist Third Cabin £21/1010 min.• Third Class £18/5/0

ApPLY LOCAL AGENTS OR £iuwtid Steam SAip u,.., £id., CABIN CLASS. A COSy CORNf;R IN THr: DRAWING RO'1M. LIMERICK, GALWAY, COBH. ------

WITH U.S.A. & CANADA From COSH (Queenslown) To BOSTON and NEW YORK To NEW~YORK CEDRIC Sun., Aug. 4 CEDRIC Sun.. Sept. 1 CEDRIC Sun., Aug. 4 BALTIC Sun.. Aug. 11 To QUEBEC and MONTREAL ARABIC...... Sun.. Aug. 18 ADI~IATlC Sun., Aug. 2.5 CALGARIC Sun.. Aug. 11 MEGANTIC Sun., Aug. 25 Maintaining New Cabin and Tourist Third Cabin Service Third Class passengers also carried in new and improved accommodation Rales ;- Cabin from Tourist Third Cabin Third Class £30 £22 £18155 For full particulars apply to WHITE STAR LINE SCOTT & co. (Queenstown EDEN QUAY, DUBLIN LTD., COBH, or Local Allents

283 IRISH TRAVEL. August, 1929.

TICKETS ~! FOR ALL LONDON THEATRES Procure your Fishing Rods, Flies, By arrangement with Messrs. ASHTON & MITCHELL R eels and Tackle from the most 33 OLD BOND STREET LONDON practical and up-to-date Fishing PIGOTT & CO., LTD. - Tackle Specialists in Ireland. - are now prepared to book Seats for any London Theatre and to issue Tickets for same CATALOGUES FREE. - Full particulars sent free and Theatre Plans may be inspected at our Booking Office

ANGLERS RESORT

112 GRAFTON STREET (Opposite Dublin Castle) DUBLIN

THE LARGEST AND SOLE AGENTS IN SOUTH OF lRELAND FOR OLDEST HARDY BROS., LTD. FIRM IN ROBERT DAY & SON, LTD. IRELAND SOLELY Any Pattern Fly Copied. IN THE GLASS AND HAYES HOTEL, THURLES CHINA R.I.A.C. and A.A. APPOINTMENT TRADE

Accommodation Central for 100 Heating. WHYTE & SONS, LTD., Guests. Garage. 17 STH. GT. GEORGE'S STREET, 2 & 4 EXCHEQUER STREET, Four miles from H olscross Abbey. AND 3 & 4 MARLBOROUGH STREET, FULLV LICENSED Telegrams: .. HAVES. THURLES" DUBLIN.

284 Attgust, 1929. /R / S /1 TRA VEL.

TROUT FISHING REQUISITES: WfUk Rods, Flic~, Casts, Lines, Wade's, Brogues, Water­ proof Jackets, Oilskins, etc., etc TRAVELLING 'lJculu EQUIPMENT: SUIT C"SES, TRUNKS, RUGS, AauuJ. Ere.

DUBLIN: 45/6 lower O'Connell Street and 34 NAssau Street. CORK: - 78 Patrick Street.

\ ::.k.;: ::JON'T, let clothes worry you /' r,;' ~ while you're on holiday. B~ "J Remember that Prescotts Cleaning Service can assist you in .any part of the country. Your clothes will be returned without delay, perfectly cleaned by the most modern process. ( Visitors to Dublin Clothes crushed during packing, Buy Irish Poplin clothes you want cleaned for some or some of the beautiful special occasion, coats, suits, costumes, articles made from it, as a frocks, hats, all will be carefully and souvenir of Ireland's Capital. This unique material is made to­ scientifically cleaned at Prescotts. day in the same way and from the same materials as in the days when Huguenot refugees introduced the art into this country. Pride of craft is woven into every strand. ATKINSONS IRISH POPLIN TIES. HANDBAGS. SCARVES. HATS AND COATS Head Office:

82-84 TALBOT STREET, DUBLIN. Richard Atkinson U. S. A. Represenl,live: The lVarner Impo,ts, In&. & Co., College Green 210 FilII, At·,.. New York. BRANCHES riND AGENCIES EVERYWHERE. Dubli'l :: Estd. 1820 o

2 5 IRISH TRAVEL. AI/!Jtlst, 19~~.

Power's Three Swallow Whiskey Guaranteed Pure Pot Still, over seven years old. All Barley used is grown in Ireland.

JOHN POWER & SON, LTD. John's Lane Distillery, Dublin

~ " ...... ' . Telephone Dublin 5001. Telegrams: Traction. Dublin. SCIENCE Daniel Thompson Automobile Engineer POLISH 7 §ltnaw §treet, D1lnlblliillJl. . for . Sole Agent for BOOTS, FLOORS De Dion Bouton Cars AND FURNITURE Charron Laycock

- 0- Repairs to all mak s of Cars ex­ ped.tiously executed at moderate charges. Magnetcs R paired and H On merit alone" Batteries Charged. Acetylene Welding and body repair WOIk -0- a speciality. PU NCH AND co., CORK A II Work is Guaranteed. Factory, Glanmire

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