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THE ISSUE One of best-known winemakers in the Zelma Long world, Long has been an icon of the vine Co-owner/ and inspiration to many for decades. Winemaking Partner, Vilafonté This pioneer in the California wine scene was one of the first women to study Through skill, hard work Paarl, South Africa oenology and viticulture at University of and determination, these 13 California, Davis, in the late 1960s. Her winemaking career started at Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa Valley, where she worked for a female winemakers are true decade and rose through the ranks to become the winery’s chief trailblazers who forged their enologist. In 1979, Long was recruited as winemaker for Simi Winery in Sonoma County. During her 18-year tenure, she became own paths and are making a president and CEO of the winery, which made her the first woman to assume senior management of a California winery. In 1997, lasting impact in the world of Long established Vilafonté winery in South Africa, where she wine. Here, they share their focuses on high-quality Bordeaux-style red blends. She has also consulted for numerous wineries worldwide, including in France own words about their vinous and Israel, and founded and was the first president of the non- voyages and experiences. profit American Vineyard Foundation (AVF). —Lauren Buzzeo Why did you want to become a winemaker? I decided to enroll in the UC Davis enology and viticulture studies after my in-laws bought property on Pritchard Hill, Napa Valley, in the mid-’60s and planted Chardonnay and Riesling. I was a science the graduate, a practicing dietitian and decided to put my science and interest in food to a different direction. What is your proudest achievement? I have two. Number one: hiring and mentoring and encouraging young women. Many early women winemakers had worked for me. Diane Kenworthy, who worked with me at Simi as viticulturist, became the first woman president of the American Society for Enology and Viticulture. Dawnine Dyer became the long-term winemaker at Domaine Chandon. Genevieve Janssens became the first [woman] winemaker of Opus One. And so on. I continue to mentor young women in all fields, when the opportunity presents itself, suggesting education, including travel, problem solving and encouraging belief and confidence in one’s skills WOMEN and abilities. Second is Vilafonté. With my husband, Phil Freese, we conceived of creating a wine of international who make our significance, starting with buying land in South Africa, planting Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec. We acquired a local partner and 22 years on, our 2016 Series C this year won the Bordeaux Trophy in the Six Nations Wine challenge, an annual competition of New World countries. Three partners, all stars in their area of expertise: me, winemaking; Phil, winegrowing; Mike Ratcliffe, wine sales and marketing. Very fun. I recently read a quote that applies here: “If you want to go fast, go alone. If you want to go far, go with others.” What is your advice to someone interested in entering the wine business? WINE It helps if you are interested in agriculture, love nature and being “I continue to mentor young women in all outdoors, are fascinated by this ancient liquid, are attracted to fields...suggesting education, including travel, BY THE EDITORS OF ILLUSTRATIONS BY the taste and nuances of wine, and want a complex life because problem solving and encouraging belief and WINE ENTHUSIAST BARBARA SPURLL wine encompasses science, agriculture, soils, sensory perception. It is international, it is historical, it is endlessly varied, it is social. In confidence in one’s skills and abilities.” short, it is fascinating. 54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2020 WINEMAG.COM | 55 THE ISSUE Founded in 1977, Signorello Estate is Ludivine Griveau is the first female winemaker in the 473- Priyanka in the midst of a rebirth. It was one of year viticultural history of the ancient charitable Keto Ninidze the few wineries to burn in the 2017 Griveau Hospices de Beaune estate in the heart of Bur- Owner/Vineyard Manager/ French wildfires that hit Northern California, gundy, currently making Pinot Noir and Chardon- Winemaker, Oda Family Winemaker, Winemaker, Winery and French is key to its bright future. A Hospices de nay from more than 148 acres of legendary sites Signorello Estate Beaune Martvili, Georgia native of Mumbai, she worked in France across the Côte d’Or that include some famous Napa Valley, CA and New Zealand as well as alongside Beaune, France grands crus. Each November, her wines—hailed One of the world’s oldest Andy Erickson and Michel Rolland at Dalla Valle Vineyards as the best ever made at the Hospices—are sold at a charity auction in winemaking countries, Georgia before being named Signorello’s winemaker in the spring of Beaune that attracts visitors from around the world. Since she arrived rests heavily on tradition. It’s 2019. She is just the third-ever winemaker to grace the prop- in 2015, Griveau has steadily transformed both viticulture and wine- customary for men to make erty near Napa’s Silverado Trail, which comprises 100 acres, making, imbuing the wines with newfound elegance, transparency and wine and for their wives to 42 of which are planted to a variety of red and white wine expression. —Anne Krebiehl, MW pour and serve food without grapes. —Virginie Boone even being introduced. But Why did you want to become a winemaker? Ninidze has made her mark on Did you have any role models? I studied agronomy and food science, and didn’t expect to become a the wine industry here, as well I was an undergrad in Mumbai pursuing a degree in food winemaker. I was passionate about wine and gastronomy, but no one in as in the greater wine world. technology when our class visited Sula Vineyards for a field trip, my family is from the wine world. Since childhood, I have loved putting Beyond breaking boundaries and I instantly fell in love with the wine industry. My first mentor my sensations and perceptions into words. Doing my oenology diploma by simply producing wine, she was Neil Fernandes, Sula’s winemaker, who gave me valuable alongside engineering was how it all started. brings attention to women and direction in terms of gaining an education and, then, experience. Did you have any role models? domestic violence through More recently, Naoko Dalla Valle, who owns and operates Dalla A wonderful traineeship with the famous Nadine Gublin changed my controversial wine labels Valle, is someone I look up to immensely. She has such a clear life. She is my role model even now. She trusted me from the beginning, that feature images of naked vision and is tireless in her quest for perfection. Who Naoko taught me, prepared me to be a woman in this man’s world, shared her women. A former journalist, she is and what she does is truly spectacular. I learned so much knowledge and offered me my first job as a winemaker in Burgundy. co-authored the book A Gently working for her. What was the most surprising experience or encounter you’ve had as a Fermenting Revolution: Women “My winery was What is your proudest achievement? female winemaker? in the Georgian Wine Business one of the new- There were a few “firsts” early in my career I am extremely As a woman winemaker, I would say most men are welcoming, nice and has been a pioneer for wine wave pioneers in proud of. I was the first Indian to earn a master’s in viticulture and natural. But for some, it is difficult being managed by a woman, but tourism to Georgia’s Samegrelo and enology from UC Davis, and the first Indian to work in things are changing day by day. I remember region. —Mike DeSimone Samegrelo, which winemaking at Hospices de Beaune, Burgundy. And at Signorello, visiting a vineyard on the first made its contribution the best is truly yet to come. I’m honored to oversee the day of my previous job. The What is your proudest to start popularizing construction of a new winery and caves, and excited to work grower did not speak for achievement? local grapes.” alongside our new viticulture and winemaking team of Steve minutes and when he did, The Samegrelo region of Western Matthiasson and Celia Welch. only to the other male Georgia, where we live, once had What was the most surprising experience or encounter you’ve winemaker. But I insisted great winemaking traditions. What was the most surprising had as a female winemaker? and spoke about Sadly, it has been forgotten since experience or encounter you’ve To quote a friend, “grapes don’t care if you are a man or a myself in the third the 19th century, when fungal had as a female winemaker? woman.” All joking aside, I’ve been very fortunate to always work person, “she thinks diseases attacked its vineyards, I deeply realize that leading at wineries and with people where being a woman was a non- maybe we could try and then, during the Soviet era, a family winery in such a issue. I’ve always been treated like an equal, and for that, I am this,” etc… Finally, the state decided that vineyards conservative culture like Georgia, thankful to all my colleagues, past and present. he saw that I knew in Samegrelo would be a great where both family and wine What is your advice to someone interested in entering the what I was talking headache for their big industry. stand on patriarchal value wine business? about.

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