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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions Glen O. Brechbill Fragrance Books Inc. www.perfumerbook.com New Jersey - USA 2009 Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill “To my parents & brothers family whose faith in my work & abilities made this manuscript possible” 2 ARRANGING FINE PERFUME COMPOSITIONS © This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any man- ner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Designed by Glen O. Brechbill Library of Congress Arranging FinePerfume Compositions / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 338 pgs. 1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title. Certificate Registry # 1 - 200445731 Copyright © 2009 by Glen O. Brechbill All Rights Reserved PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First Edition Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 3 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions About The Book What can I say about a fine perfume. Of course the art of creating a fine fragrance in this industry is a very carefully guarded craft. In order to learn how to assemble a formula takes a very good memory, talent and years of hard work. In fact the three leaders in the industry including Givaudan, IFF and Symrise have their own schools where a student apprentices under a master perfumer. A fine fragrance is nothing more then an assemblage of pleasing materials that together works harmoniously in a blend. I decided to add my arrangements in order to display the art as simple as it is complex. If one works a composition as a percentage of various materials a fine fragrance formula can be deciphered. Unfortunately one will very rarely find any compositions on the world wide web. Part of this is due to the para- noia within the industry. A material understanding will allow you to decipher the complexity of just about any fragrance excluding Estee Lauder's Beautiful. Creating a formula with fifteen or more pages just over compli- cates the art, and of course the fragrance. I decided to add my personal classification of aroma chemicals through the book to help explain the simplicity of a creation and each fragrance family's uniqueness. Any given material can play an important role, or a subordinate one. Again, that is the nature of the creative art. Personally I believe a fine fragrance can be assembled utilizing a page and a half of various materials. What works together in a blend depends on skill and in part luck by the artist. Most fragrance houses in the states utilize test panels. Trying to get a scent created with endless critics further degrades the fine art. Asking some- one a pointed question the answer can be what you want to hear, but not necessarily the truth. Fragrance launches today are to many often tied to stars and gimmicks. Chandler Burr in his recent book show casing the industry states the business needs to get back to its roots. I think he is one hundred percent correct in his assessment. The miss truths put out by the marketing, public relations and ad advertising folks ads to the declining sales and many failures. Whether any particular fragrance in my book works is unknown. However, I do know one will not find a finer collection of fragrance compositions anywhere on the internet. The craft and its art are that highly prized. If one finds a book the formulas are either old, useless or misleading further obfuscating the art. Enjoy presentation into the creative art. Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 4 Index Index Pages Copyright 2 About the Book 3 Index 4 - 5 Fragrance Families 6 - 13 Fragrance Pyramid 14 - 16 Costing Out a Fragrance 17 Floral Fragrance Chemicals 18 - 28 Floral Floral Compositions 29 - 60 Floral Bouquet Compositions 61 - 68 Green Fragrance Chemicals 69 - 72 Floral Green Compositions 73 - 92 Fruit Fragrance Chemicals 93 - 96 Floral Fruit Compositions 97 - 120 Rose Fragrance Chemicals 121 - 126 Violet Fragrance Chemicals 127 - 130 Jasmin Fragrance Chemicals 131 - 132 Floral Fresh Compositions 133 - 141 Floral Sweet Compositions 142 - 148 Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 5 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions Floral Aldehydic Compositions 149 - 160 Chypre Floral Compositions 161 - 164 Chypre Fresh Compositions 165 - 172 Chypre Fruity Compositions 173 - 180 Musk Animalic Fragrance Chemicals 181 - 184 Chypre Floral Animalic Compositions 185 - 192 Chypre Green Compositions 193 - 204 Floriental Compositions 205 - 208 Oriental Sweet Compositions 209 - 212 Oriental Spicy Compositions 213 - 224 Masculine Fragrance Families 225 - 228 Herbaceous Fragrance Chemicals 229 - 231 Lavender Fresh Compositions 232 - 235 Lavender Spicy Compositions 236 - 239 Fougere Fresh Compositions 240 - 243 Fougere Floral Compositions 244 - 251 Fougere Woody Compositions 252 - 255 Fougere Sweet Compositions 256 - 259 Oriental Sweet Compositions 260 - 263 Spice Fragrance Chemicals 264 - 266 Oriental Spicy Compositions 267 - 270 Woody Fragrance Chemicals 271 - 274 Chypre Woody Compositions 275 - 290 Moss, Amber & Tobacco Fragrance Chemicals 291 - 292 Chypre Coniferous Compositions 293 - 296 Leather Fragrance Chemicals 297 - 298 Chypre Leather Compositions 299 - 302 Chypre Fresh Compositions 303 - 306 Chypre Green Compositions 307 - 310 Citrus Fragrance Chemicals 311 - 319 Citrus Floral Compositions 320 - 323 Citrus Fantasy Compositions 324 - 327 Citrus Fresh Compositions 328 - 331 Citrus Green Compositions 332 - 335 Bibliography 336 - 338 Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 6 Fragrance Families LASSIFICATION IS VARIED, and their are new sub-divisions constantly being added. Keep in mind the sub- Cgroups are part of the below families. Tastes and popularity of any particular group can vary from coun- try to country. With the launch of more, and more fine fragrances the market is getting increasingly over satu- rated. Employed today one will find a lot of marketing hype. This includes of course the use of movie stars, personalities, custom bottles, and fancy packaging. Fine fragrances can be categorized in several different aroma groupings. All scents no matter how unique and distinct fall into fragrance families that include Floral, Chypre, Oriental, Lavender, Fougere and Citrus. They are further divided between women, and men. Listed below are the original families as outlined by Haarman & Reimer. Feminine Notes Floral Family: The largest family of fine fragrances is by far the florals. Floral notes can find their way into the heart of many fragrances. A floral fragrance can be classified as light, green, floral, and heavy. Scents in this family include violet, carnation, rose, gardenia, lily of the valley, tuberose and narcissus. A light fragrance is often described as springtime flowers like Lily of the Valley, Lilac and Freesia often with citrusy or fruity top notes. Green accords can also be based on Muguet, and other leafy stem like materials sometimes based on herba- ceous, earthy notes like Galbanum. Narcotic floral effects can be achieved by blending different floral materials with rose notes plus adding exotic Ylang-Ylang, Methyl Benzoate, and other diverse floral materials. They are often found in southern cli- mates than in more northerly regions, and are thus considered heavy. These include, first and foremost, Jasmin represented by Benzyl Acetate, Hedione to name a few of the fragrance ingredients that are available to a cre- ative artist. Other exotic types include Tuberose, Orange Blossom and Narcissus. Floral notes in this family can also be balsamic such as Hyacinth. Various violet compounds are a favorite addition to many compositions. The fragrances included in this group enjoy the greatest acceptance around the world. Many formulas display dis- tinctive accords that are reminiscent of their natural counter parts. It can be made up of a wide variety of flo- ral bouquets, or a certain note which predominates. The floral family has six main sub divisions as Floral, Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 7 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions Green, Fruity, Fresh, Aldehydic and Sweet. Floral Floral A floral fragrance owes its nature to flower blossoms that may differ from one another. Rose materials such as Citronellol, Geraniol, and Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol predominate. Again Jasmine in combination with rose ingredients are the central part of this theme. By adding carnation, ylang-ylang, tuberose, iris and others a pure- ly floral effect can be achieved. Today more synthetic ingredients including the use of artificial bases are uti- lized due to the high cost and unavailability of essential oils. For example, a fine fragrance such as Chanel # 5 created by Ernst Breaux in 1923 would smell entirely different today. Floral Green A floral green fragrance are natural in nature compounded by blending of herbs, ferns, mosses and citrus fruits. This group is characterized of typical botanical fragrance notes, like those of leaves, stalks or freshly mown grass as well as cucumber-violet-like green notes. Generally relying on parts of plants, and flowers such as Muguet, or Lily of the Valley. They can be delicate as Muguet or have a strong stem like note characteristic of Styrallyl Acetate or Cyclamen Aldehyde. Green is often used to describe lush forests, fallen leaves during the autumn, a woodland meadow, or grassland. They can be further subdivided under Fresh and Balsamic. Galbanum or Olibanum would be in the later family, or the can be a green accord such as Cassis. Floral Fruity A fragrance of a floral fruity type can be achieved by blending fruity elements of a single fruit or a com- bination of two or more of which one can dominate. Apple accords that include, peach, apricot, pineapple, cas- sis, prune, strawberry, and raspberry.
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