Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Glen O. Brechbill

Fragrance Books Inc.

www.perfumerbook.com

New Jersey - USA

2009

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

“To my parents & brothers family whose faith in my work & abilities made this manuscript possible” 2

ARRANGING FINE PERFUME COMPOSITIONS ©

This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any man- ner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.

Library of Congress

Arranging FinePerfume Compositions / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 338 pgs. 1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title.

Certificate Registry # 1 - 200445731

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 3 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

About The Book

What can I say about a fine perfume. Of course the art of creating a fine fragrance in this industry is a very carefully guarded craft. In order to learn how to assemble a formula takes a very good memory, talent and years of hard work. In fact the three leaders in the industry including Givaudan, IFF and Symrise have their own schools where a student apprentices under a master perfumer.

A fine fragrance is nothing more then an assemblage of pleasing materials that together works harmoniously in a blend. I decided to add my arrangements in order to display the art as simple as it is complex. If one works a composition as a percentage of various materials a fine fragrance formula can be deciphered.

Unfortunately one will very rarely find any compositions on the world wide web. Part of this is due to the para- noia within the industry. A material understanding will allow you to decipher the complexity of just about any fragrance excluding Estee Lauder's Beautiful. Creating a formula with fifteen or more pages just over compli- cates the art, and of course the fragrance. I decided to add my personal classification of aroma chemicals through the book to help explain the simplicity of a creation and each fragrance family's uniqueness. Any given material can play an important role, or a subordinate one. Again, that is the nature of the creative art.

Personally I believe a fine fragrance can be assembled utilizing a page and a half of various materials. What works together in a blend depends on skill and in part luck by the artist. Most fragrance houses in the states utilize test panels. Trying to get a scent created with endless critics further degrades the fine art. Asking some- one a pointed question the answer can be what you want to hear, but not necessarily the truth.

Fragrance launches today are to many often tied to stars and gimmicks. Chandler Burr in his recent book show casing the industry states the business needs to get back to its roots. I think he is one hundred percent correct in his assessment. The miss truths put out by the marketing, public relations and ad advertising folks ads to the declining sales and many failures.

Whether any particular fragrance in my book works is unknown. However, I do know one will not find a finer collection of fragrance compositions anywhere on the internet. The craft and its art are that highly prized. If one finds a book the formulas are either old, useless or misleading further obfuscating the art.

Enjoy presentation into the creative art.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 4

Index

Index Pages

About the Book 3

Index 4 - 5

Fragrance Families 6 - 13

Fragrance Pyramid 14 - 16

Costing Out a Fragrance 17

Floral Fragrance Chemicals 18 - 28 Floral Floral Compositions 29 - 60 Floral Bouquet Compositions 61 - 68

Green Fragrance Chemicals 69 - 72 Floral Green Compositions 73 - 92

Fruit Fragrance Chemicals 93 - 96 Floral Fruit Compositions 97 - 120

Rose Fragrance Chemicals 121 - 126

Violet Fragrance Chemicals 127 - 130

Jasmin Fragrance Chemicals 131 - 132 Floral Fresh Compositions 133 - 141 Floral Sweet Compositions 142 - 148

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 5 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Aldehydic Compositions 149 - 160 Chypre Floral Compositions 161 - 164 Chypre Fresh Compositions 165 - 172 Chypre Fruity Compositions 173 - 180

Musk Animalic Fragrance Chemicals 181 - 184 Chypre Floral Animalic Compositions 185 - 192 Chypre Green Compositions 193 - 204 Floriental Compositions 205 - 208 Oriental Sweet Compositions 209 - 212 Oriental Spicy Compositions 213 - 224

Masculine Fragrance Families 225 - 228

Herbaceous Fragrance Chemicals 229 - 231 Lavender Fresh Compositions 232 - 235 Lavender Spicy Compositions 236 - 239 Fougere Fresh Compositions 240 - 243 Fougere Floral Compositions 244 - 251 Fougere Woody Compositions 252 - 255 Fougere Sweet Compositions 256 - 259 Oriental Sweet Compositions 260 - 263

Spice Fragrance Chemicals 264 - 266 Oriental Spicy Compositions 267 - 270

Woody Fragrance Chemicals 271 - 274 Chypre Woody Compositions 275 - 290

Moss, Amber & Tobacco Fragrance Chemicals 291 - 292 Chypre Coniferous Compositions 293 - 296

Leather Fragrance Chemicals 297 - 298 Chypre Leather Compositions 299 - 302 Chypre Fresh Compositions 303 - 306 Chypre Green Compositions 307 - 310

Citrus Fragrance Chemicals 311 - 319 Citrus Floral Compositions 320 - 323 Citrus Fantasy Compositions 324 - 327 Citrus Fresh Compositions 328 - 331 Citrus Green Compositions 332 - 335

Bibliography 336 - 338

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 6

Fragrance Families

LASSIFICATION IS VARIED, and their are new sub-divisions constantly being added. Keep in mind the sub- Cgroups are part of the below families. Tastes and popularity of any particular group can vary from country to country. With the launch of more, and more fine fragrances the market is getting increasingly over saturated. Employed today one will find a lot of marketing hype. This includes of course the use of movie stars, personalities, custom bottles, and fancy packaging.

Fine fragrances can be categorized in several different aroma groupings. All scents no matter how unique and distinct fall into fragrance families that include Floral, Chypre, Oriental, Lavender, Fougere and Citrus. They are further divided between women, and men. Listed below are the original families as outlined by Haarman & Reimer.

Feminine Notes

Floral Family:

The largest family of fine fragrances is by far the florals. Floral notes can find their way into the heart of many fragrances. A floral fragrance can be classified as light, green, floral, and heavy. Scents in this family include violet, carnation, rose, gardenia, lily of the valley, tuberose and narcissus. A light fragrance is often described as springtime flowers like Lily of the Valley, Lilac and Freesia often with citrusy or fruity top notes. Green accords can also be based on Muguet, and other leafy stem like materials sometimes based on herbaceous, earthy notes like Galbanum.

Narcotic floral effects can be achieved by blending different floral materials with rose notes plus adding exotic Ylang-Ylang, Methyl Benzoate, and other diverse floral materials. They are often found in southern cli- mates than in more northerly regions, and are thus considered heavy. These include, first and foremost, Jasmin represented by Benzyl Acetate, Hedione to name a few of the fragrance ingredients that are available to a creative artist.

Other exotic types include Tuberose, Orange Blossom and Narcissus. Floral notes in this family can also be balsamic such as Hyacinth. Various violet compounds are a favorite addition to many compositions. The fragrances included in this group enjoy the greatest acceptance around the world. Many formulas display distinctive accords that are reminiscent of their natural counter parts. It can be made up of a wide variety of floral bouquets, or a certain note which predominates. The floral family has six main sub divisions as Floral,

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 7 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Green, Fruity, Fresh, Aldehydic and Sweet.

Floral Floral

A floral fragrance owes its nature to flower blossoms that may differ from one another. Rose materials such as Citronellol, Geraniol, and Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol predominate. Again Jasmine in combination with rose ingredients are the central part of this theme. By adding carnation, ylang-ylang, tuberose, iris and others a pure- ly floral effect can be achieved. Today more synthetic ingredients including the use of artificial bases are utilized due to the high cost and unavailability of essential oils. For example, a fine fragrance such as Chanel # 5 created by Ernst Breaux in 1923 would smell entirely different today.

Floral Green

A floral green fragrance are natural in nature compounded by blending of herbs, ferns, mosses and citrus fruits. This group is characterized of typical botanical fragrance notes, like those of leaves, stalks or freshly mown grass as well as cucumber-violet-like green notes. Generally relying on parts of plants, and flowers such as Muguet, or Lily of the Valley. They can be delicate as Muguet or have a strong stem like note characteristic of Styrallyl Acetate or Cyclamen Aldehyde. Green is often used to describe lush forests, fallen leaves during the autumn, a woodland meadow, or grassland. They can be further subdivided under Fresh and Balsamic. Galbanum or Olibanum would be in the later family, or the can be a green accord such as Cassis.

Floral Fruity

A fragrance of a floral fruity type can be achieved by blending fruity elements of a single fruit or a combination of two or more of which one can dominate. Apple accords that include, peach, apricot, pineapple, cassis, prune, strawberry, and raspberry. Mixed with fine floral ingredients that include jasmine, violet, hyacinth and others provide a rich show case of what can be achieved within this family. Becoming more popular each day is the utilization of Papaya, and Passion Fruit. These perfumes are known to have a clean fruit quality and a soft warmth.

Floral Fresh

A flower that is found in nature can be fresh, yet sweet and green. This is part of the classification of fine fragrances that is open to interpretation. Some suggest that this type of fragrance can be based on hyacinth, lily of the valley and orange blossom with a fresh fruity note of Bergamot and other citrus materials. Jasmine based on Benzyl Acetate or Hedione can also be part of the theme.

Floral Aldehydic

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 8 depth. The first fine fragrance utilizing a large percentage of synthetic components was Chanel # 5 created by Ernest Beaux for Coco Chanel. Other sub groups can include woody and powdery notes that are a combination of Anisic Aldehyde, and Cedarwood Oil of Virginia.

Floral Sweet

A floral sweet fragrance is often described as a floriental. Fragrances in this family can include gardenia, jas mine, freesia, and orange flower. A fine sweet fragrance can be based on Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde, Vetiver including exotic spices and their essences.

Chypre:

The term Chypre was coined by Francois Coty who created the original perfume in 1917. They were based on aroma materials that had an origin from Mediterranean countries. Mr. Coty was born on the island of Cyprus thus he came up with his namesake Chypre. The concept is based on a citrus fresh accord and moss. Originally the accord was founded on Bergamot Oil although scents in the family can include clary sage, lavender, patchouli and resins. The scents feel perfect for those who enjoy the fresh outdoors. In women's fragrance there are five main subdivisions that include Floral, Fresh, Fruity, Musk and Green.

Chypre Floral

Keeping this concept true to form the rose is used as a dominate theme. In my book titled, A Reference Book On Fragrances I have a sub division that lists over 200 rose materials. Also used is a Gardenia accord that can be artificially recreated using a Jasmin rose theme with Styrallyl Acetate as a predominate green note.

Chypre Fresh

The term fresh is open to a wide variety of interpretations. Fresh can be floral directed having its origins in many different flowers, and of course with citrus top note components. With time this term has become increasingly generic in its use.

Chypre Fruity

This concept is characterized by a predominate fruitiness often having a peach like fragrance. It is more pronounced in this group having components that are inherent to this family.

Chypre Floral Musk

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 9 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions around the world after being vomited by the whale. A pound of this material can bring a King's ransom. Today most of the musk like animal materials are produced synthetically. Fine representations of this group include Galaxolide 50, Ethylene Brassylate including Cashmeran, and Nepalva. Materials that include Phenyl produce a musk like honey fragrance.

Chypre Green

A delightful concept, and one of my favorites is the Green theme. It is always open for experimentation and interpretations. Generally a wide variety of floral components are incorporated into this arrangement with a greenness based on Galbanum, Muguet, or Lily of the Valley, with strong green like synthetic notes. Often added are herbaceous coniferous traces to round off this accord.

Oriental Family:

The Oriental family of fragrances is often referred to as Amber. These perfumes have a strong, musky, spicy scent that often conjure up memories of Arabia and India. They are rich, heavy and diffusive. The sweetness can be derived from vanilla, sandalwood to name a few. Combining floral ingredients they are mysterious and sensual. The first Oriental was Jicky created by Guerlain in 1889. This group contain aroma materials often are reminiscent of the Far East. There's a wide range of interpretations some flowery related whereas others have a heavy spicy theme.

Oriental Sweet

An oriental sweet scent can have a citrus top note and a sweet vanilla amber foundation. Vanillin, and Ethyl Vanillin both aldehydes can be used up to 10 % providing that extra sweetness. One can also utilize Balsam Peru Oil, Vanilla Tincture, Vanilla Sur Abs. C'Less MD in conjunction with Benzyl family of materials.

Oriental Spicy

Incorporating spicy ingredients often from Indian can include clove, nutmeg and carnation, cardamom and curry. Adding musk materials that can include floral accords such as jasmine and ylang-ylang tend to provide a delicate touch to this group. The notes can be bitter, or contain sweet elements A fragrance in this area is distinctive, and can be enjoyed by both men and women. Many perfumers add balsamic notes derived from balsam materials including resinous notes derived from Balsam Peru.

EN'S FRAGRANCES TODAY ARE OPEN TO A MYRIAD of interpretations based on Lavender, Fougere, Oriental, MChypre and Citrus. The Oriental, and Chypre group shares a common theme with women's fragrances. Lavender Family:

Masculine Notes

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 10 are similar often incorporating aroma materials that can be found in either theme. Originally it was intended for women, but soon found its way to the men's side. Having fresh lavender as the main part of the fragrance there is less room for creative interpretation. Both fresh and spicy themes predominate.

Lavender Fresh

This group is categorized by a predominate Lavender accord. Supporting notes can come from many areas opening up this theme to a wide range of creative interpretations.

Lavender Spicy

Again Lavender is the dominate theme. However added to it is a pine like spiciness with a herbaceous tone centered on the fresh flower. It is generally found its way in many masculine applications possessing a wide range of different themes.

Fougere Family:

The French word for Fern is Fougere. Ferns found in nature have very little odor. Generally the concept is based on herbaceous materials that include Coumarin, Oak Moss, Lavender and Geranium. They are aromatic often with a camphoraceous, minty, eucalyptus like with an earthy nuance. They are usually found on low- growing, unobtrusively blossoming plants. Other examples include rosemary, sage as well as peppermint and lavender. It also can be quite representative of a woodland accord.

Fougere Royale first introduced by Houbigant in 1882 was the start of this family. A composition can utilize a wide range of aromatic chemicals as mentioned above including a variety of herbs, geranium and ferns. The group was originally intended for the feminine market. However, it soon found its way to the men's side of the fragrance isle. There are four sub-divisions in this group headed by Floral, Fresh, Woody and Sweet themes.

Fougere Fresh

This group has a predominate lavender freshness. Many of today's fragrances have utilized a dry-fresh approach that can often incorporate a variety of different accords.

Fougere Floral

The fougere floral theme can incorporate a variety of different components. This can include combinations of dry fresh lavender often utilizing muguet, cyclamen and spicy woody notes.

Fougere Woody

This is a predominate woody theme. However, to keep the fragrance a fougere woody materials have to be used that are part of this group. Sub divisions within this family can include ones with a leather, tobacco and animal materials.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 11 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Sweet

This division has a predominate lavender interpretation usually built on the tonka bean otherwise known today as coumarin. Depending on who smells the fragrance it can be sweet, fresh and yet woody depending on the percentages of fragrance ingredients utilized.

Oriental Family:

The oriental family of fine fragrances is shared with the women. Scents in this family include amber, vanilla, woods, and resins. Spice materials such as cardamom, nutmeg, caraway, cassia, carnation, cinnamon find their way in a variety of interesting combinations with a masculine theme. Floral notes such as rose and jasmine including the violet are part of the accord. Bay Oil from the West Indies including Pepper, Basil and Olibanum are popular base materials. The mystery of the orient gives forth to an interesting, and at the same time delightful group of fragrances.

Oriental Spicy

Scents in this family can include combinations of spicy notes along with amber, vanilla, woods and resinous materials. Fine fragrances in this group can be on the heavy side, and long lasting.

Oriental Sweet

An oriental sweet fragrance can share many similarities with its spicy counter part. In this family of fragrances there is a sweetness that can be based on vanilla, jasmine, or synthetic aldehydes to provide strength. Of course cloves, ginger, carnation, nutmeg, including caraway, and nutmeg are characteristic of this theme.

Chypre Family:

A Chypre fragrance was originally created by Francois Coty, and is based on ingredients originally from the Mediterranean countries. It emphases the contrast between the citrus freshness of bergamot type top notes and a mossy patchouli base. Chypre perfumes tend to be strong, and aromatic. In the men's side of the family there are five main groups that have a woody, leathery, coniferous, fresh and green themes. There is a wide range of accords that can be achieved by combining masculine aroma notes in daring ways. It is reminiscent of those who love to explore, and enjoy the fresh outdoors.

Chypre Woody

This is a group that is highly reminiscent of chipped wood. One of the exceptions is that of cedar which smells like a cedar chest odor with a slightly camphoraceous off-note. Sandalwood tends to smell sultry, and warm at times described as somewhat animalic. Vetiver from Haiti has a pronounced grassy earthy wood like note that varies depending on its purity. Patchouli can smell earthy, herbaceous sweet yet possess a slightly fruity tone. Other wood like materials include rosewood and pine oils. Each theme has a distinct pattern, and can incorporate materials that are utilized in other groups.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 12

Chypre Leather

Fragrance notes derived from genuine leather are dominate in this accord. Typical components can include Birch Tar Oil that is distilled from Birch Trees. Cade Oil can often be used to simulate the odor including Costus Oil. Other materials include Cedryl Acetate, 2, 6 Xylenol, Suderal LT & HT plus the Quinolines. Of course fine leather bases such as Leather LWS - 3768, and Hydrocarbon SB are often used to great effect. Great care has to be taken to tame the materials. Keep in mind some have restrictive uses in the European Union that includes Birch Tar Oil. I clearly remember on one occasion sampling this odor finding it lasted on a smelling strip well over a month.

Chypre Coniferous

A coniferous fine fragrance is reminiscent of crushed conifer needles, or resins that often display citrusy, herbaceous, or aromatic spice like elements. They can also possess an earthy note. This group is predominately resinous and green. Pine needle oil like Iso Bornyl Acetate, Fir Needle Canadian is preferred. Citrus top notes are often utilized to create sweet like fresh notes.

Chypre Fresh

A chypre fresh concept can include notes of sage, lavender, oakmoss, patchouli and resins. The scents have a woodsy outdoor feel reminiscent of the forest.

Chypre Green

The chypre green accord incorporates the same group of aromatic chemicals. However, in this case often Galbanum Oil and other green related floral materials are added to provide a fresh green effect.

Citrus Family

This is predominately a man's group of fragrances. Often citrus notes are combined in fine floral fruity accords to strengthen the top note of this group of fragrances. They are predominately light and fresh with an overwhelming citrus note such as bergamot, orange, lemon, lime, petitgrain, grapefruit, tangerine, and mandarin. Citrus fragrances are refreshing very popular in the summer.

Citrus Floral

A citrus floral arrangement is predominately floral based with a distinctive citrus note based on the above.

Citrus Fantasy

A citrus fantasy concept can also have a floral theme different base materials including the combination of many different citrus notes to produce different effects.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 13 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Fresh

A citrus fresh fragrance is open for interpretation. What's fresh to one interesting can be green to another. A fresh fruit can be tart, sweet, juicy strong or weak.

Citrus Green

A citrus green fragrance has elements of all of the above. The greenness can be derived from Galbanum Oils, Olibanum that can possess a natural green note to many floral materials including powerful top note green note aromas.

Ozone Family:

Oceanic, ozone, watery are an example of a new group of fragrances. Often they are described as things you can't bottle naturally like ocean spray, mountain air, or freshly laundered clothes. There is a wide range of fragrant ingredient materials available as outlined below:

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 14

Fine Woman’s Fragrance - L’Air du Flor

Citrus

Floral Bergamot Lemon Fruity Jasmin Lime TOP Carnation Orange Apple Rose Melon Violet Peach Galbanum Strawberry Gardenia Spicy Styrallyl Acetate Wood Cinnamon Green Cloves Cedar Nutmeg Patchouly Aldehydes Sandalwood MIDDLE Vetiver Mossy

Oakmoss Tremoss BASE

Amber Animal Amber Oriental Balsamic Labdanum Civet Vanilla Bean Castoreum Benzoin Musk Opoponax Musk Traseolide Tonka

The Scent Pyramid

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 15 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

he florals represent the soul of every feminine perfume. They are basically middle notes. Nevertheless, as Tyou can see, they also plan an important rolse in the devleopment of the top and the base of the fragrance. The citruses, first of the top notes, also play a fairly important rose in the development of the middle of a fragrance. Then come the green notes, the fruity notes, and lastly the aldehydes, pure aroma chemicals with no bases in nature, which are used to give diffusion and originality to a fragrance.

From there, we move on to the base notes, which include the spices ( which may also play an important rose in the development of the top of the fragrance), the mosses, the woods, the oriental/balsamic, the animal and the amber notes.

A triangle such as the outside one will give you a fragrance such as L’Air du Temps. The narrow inside triangle with its emphasis on the top notes shows a fresh fragrance such as Diorella. The wide traingle with its emphasis on the base notes illustrates a fragrance such as Shalimar.

While this is a very much a generalization, by varying the form of the traingle one can obtain an idea of the performance of a fragrance and of the corresponding raw materials which go into its development.

The above should not be interpreted as an attempt to reduce a perfume to a mere traingle: the grandeur of a fragrance comes from its richness, not from its austerity. Nevertheless, the triangle approach seems the most apt for visually translating notions which we all know are particularly difficult to grasp and express.

L’Air du Flor / Floral Floral

Top Notes Bergamot

Rosewood, Neroli Fresh Flowery

Peach, Spice Notes

Middle Notes Clove

Rose de Mai, Ylang - Ylang, Jasmin Floral Spicy

Orris, Orchid, Lily

Base Notes Sandalwood

Musk, Vetyver, Benzoin, Cedar Mild Powdery

Amber, Moss

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 16

Chypre Green

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

83 Iso E Super 6 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol 18 Musk 50 DPG 1 Geranyle Acetate Pure .1 Alcohol C - 9 4 Petunial 6 Lavander Abrialis - Aldron 1 Frescile 3 Germacrene D’Natural 40 % PC192 6 Nectaryl 65 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 7 Hydrofix L 11 Benzyl Alcohol FR 22 Linalyl Acetate 4 Santal Blanc 4 Heliotropine 18 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 12 Benzoato Benzila .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 15 Sandela 57 Geraniol Extra 7 Etil Vanilina Thodarome 8 Top Galbanum 18.326 1 Mousse De Chene 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate 23 Benzyl Acetate FFC 29 Terpineol - Prodasynth 1 Anisyl Alcohol 8 Citronellol 4 Ethyl Vanilline 14 Ionone Alpha White Coeur .1 Neofolione 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon 5 Blood Orange Oil 11 Aubepine .1 Acetophenone 28 Benzyl Salicylate 14 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 15 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Cyclic 19 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 3 Bois Ambrene Forte 11 Persicol SA 16 Aldehyde C -14 22 Hercolin - D 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 3 Cassis Fragrance 3 Ionone 14 Tangerine / Brazil 2 Floralyn 3 Styrallyl Acetate 1 Florol .1 Iris Abs. 11 Ethyl Linalool 327 Di Propylene Glycol 1,000 1 Applinal .1 Phellodedrine Fruit Oil 3 Bois Iris 1 Coriander Seed 1 Perryfix .1 Viola Odorata 2 Eugenyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 17 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions The Formula - Converting Pounds into Kilos

100 Lbs. Divided by 2.2046 = 45.36 Divided by 1,000 = .0453

.0453 X Parts = Grams Per Item = 1000 Parts Costing Out a Fragrance - Pine - All Purpose Cleaner

Parts Aroma Price Per Raw Material Material Pound Impact

291 Pine Oil Yarmor 302 1.03 .300 167 Iso Bornyl Acetate 1.35 .225 39 Alpha Pinene 2.25 .088 18 Eucalyptol 5.76 .104 3 Camphor Powder 2.00 .006 27 Galaxolide 50 8.75 .236 52 Alpha Terpineol 1.22 .063 26 Benzyl Salicylate 4.05 .105 24 Benzyl Benzoate 1.60 .038 23 Ionone Beta Pure 17.10 .393 11 Vertenex 2/45 .026 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate .860 .029 19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3.00 .057 28 Cedarwood Oil of Virginia 6.20 .174 1 Piconia 12.80 .012 12 Fir Needle Canadian 10.75 .132 17 Coumarin 7.50 .128 20 Santalex T - Sandela 6.50 .130 152 Di Propylene Glycol .64 .097 36 Terpinyl Acetate 1.80 .065

1,000 $ 2.408 Per pound

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 18

Floral Fragrance Chemicals

Acetate Eugenol Sweet spicy carnation. Acetate C - 8 Fruity, slightly fatty waxy floral odor. Acetate C - 9 Powerful fruity green leafy. Acetate Iso Eugenol Balsamic, warm faintly spicy. Acetophenone Pungent sweet odor, dilution - resembles hawthorne. Adoxal Sweet floral waxy rosy referred to as ozone like. Alcohol C - 8 Powerful fresh, orange rose like waxy and sweet odor. Alcohol C - 9 Powerful oily floral fresh petal like, dilution - rosy. Alcohol C - 10 Sweet slightly fatty oily waxy floral odor. Alcohol C - 11 Lenic Fresh rather fatty odor citrusy waxy rosy, petal like note. Aldehyde C - 8 Soft woody green mildly floral odor. Aldehyde C - 9 Diffusive fatty floral waxy odor. Aldehyde C - 11 Cyclic Pleasant waxy floral refreshing odor. Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic Powerful waxy rosy citrusy odor. Aldehyde C - 11 Undecyclic Fatty odor green floral. Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric Fresh sweet waxy herbaceous clean floral odor. Aldron Floral. Allyl Ionone Oily sweet slight flowery, but also fruity woody bark like green. Alpha Damascone Intense fruity reminiscent of plums and roses. Alpha Ionone Soft warm, orris violet like, sweet and extremely diffusive. Alpha Ionone 60 Mild floral violet odor. Alpha Ionone White Coeur Floral violet like. Alpha Terpineol Extra Delicately floral and sweet of lilac type. Ambrette A fragrance with a floral musk like scent. Ambrette XNM Sweet, but heavy floral musk odor. Ambrettolide Floral musky sweet odor. Ambrose Abs. A very strong green floral type fragrance. Amyl Cinnamic Alcohol Mild oily waxy floral and sweet. Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Mild herbaceous reminiscent of many types of flowers. A C A Di Methyl Acetal Peculiar animal green odor reminiscent of parts of jasmin. Amyl Salicylate Sweet herbaceous green slightly floral. Anatoly A floral material originating in Western Turkey. Andrane A very faint nondescript odor of floral type not sweet or green.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 19 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Anisic Aldehyde Intensely sweet floral yet somewhat hay like hawthorne. Anisyl Acetate Mildly fruity floral slightly balsamic vanilla like in plums, lilac. Anisyl Alcohol Mildly floral sweet odor reminiscent of vanilla. Argumen Aldehyde Floral aldehydic hyacinth type. Aurantesin Sweet floral odor reminiscent of orange blossom. Aurantiol Very sweet heavy floral orange blossom to linden flowers.

Balinol A green floral compound. Benzophenone Powdery geranium rose like. Benzyl Acetate Pw thin sweet fresh fruity floral of jasmin gardenia muguet lily. Benzyl Butyl Ether Sweet fresh floral and somewhat chemical. Benzyl Butyrate Heavy fruity floral, plum like. Benzyl Iso Amyl Ether Floral fruity odor somewhat greener and herby then benzyl acetate. Benzyl Iso Eugenol Faint rosy balsamic carnation. Benzyl Phenyl Acetate Mild sweet honey floral. Benzyl Salicylate Very faint sweet floral. Beta Ionone Warm woody dry floral odor with a fruity undertone. Bois Amberene Forte Green floral odor. Bois De Rose Oil Floral odor reminiscent of rose orange mignoette. Boisinal A very weak and sweet fruity floral odor. Bonorax An extremely green floral, not excessively sweet or cloying. Bourgenal A powerful muguet floral note. Bromystrol Alpha Pungent sweet grassy floral odor, reminiscent of hyacinth. Bromystrol Omega Powerful pungent floral somewhat grassy odor Rem of hyacinth. Brouts Abs. Eau D ' Oranger Strong and tenacious odor, musty dry faintly floral.

Camomile German Typically sweet, and herbaceous. Camomile Moroccan Similar to above and below except for a rose, honey character. Camomile Roman Characteristic odor of the flowers, fresh, sweet, herbaceous. Cananga Oil Java Sweet and floral, ylang ylang oil, jasmin. Cassie Abs. Powerful strong spicy floral odor. Cassie Bengale A spicy floral odor whose source is located in s.e. asia Cassione Intensely sweet floral, very slightly woody powdery. Cassis Base 345B A green fruity floral character. Cassis A 50339/779602 Fruity green sweet and very delicate, but at same time tenacious. Cassis D 500608 - 735395 A strong green floral slightly sweet material. Cassis Fragrance Strong green fruity floral fragrance. Cassis Givco Very diffusive strong green fruity floral odor. Cetone Alpha Tenacious floral violet compound. Chamomile Flowers AF - 26 A herbaceous reproduction of the true flower oil Cinnamalva Powerful warm spicy oily slight floral. Cinnamyl Acetate Sweet mild balsamic slightly floral fruity odor. Cinnamyl Iso Valerate Fresh, but delicately floral rosy odor. CIS Jasmone Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 20

Citronella Oil Java Fresh and sweet revealing high content of citronellol rose odor. Citronellol Oil Coeur Fresh, rosy, floral rosy. Citronellol Oil Extra Purer grade, fresher rosy. Citronellol 750 Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 73 %. Citronellol 80 Intermediate Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 83.5 %. Citronellol 850 Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 86 %. Citronellol Last Fraction Rosy, not as sweet as a typical fresh floral rose. Citronellyl Acetate Fresh, rosy, fruity odor reminiscent of geranium oil. Citronellyl N Butyrate Intensely fruity, sweet and somewhat rosy leafy, petal like. Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Fresh almost citrusy rosy, intensely fruity and sweet odor. Citronellyl Formate Pw leafy green fruity rosy fresh and light Rem of geranium rose. Citronellyl Nitrile A green rose like scent almost reminiscent of citralva. Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet herbaceous rosy, heavy and reminiscent of rose petals. Citronellyl Propionate Fresh fruity, sweet rosy odor more berry fruity odor. Cyclal C Powerful green leafy floral. Cyclamen Aldehyde Diffusive powerful floral green stem like odor.

Damascenia Rich sweet deep floral rose. Damascenia Rosa Abs. Rich warm spicy floral and very deep rose odor, honey tones. Damascenia Rosa Concrete Extremely rich deep & sweet floral truly reminiscent of pink rose. Damascenia 185 SA Floral fruity rose odor at same time very sweet. Damascenone A powerful floral fruity note, very natural rose plum like. Delphone Diffusive fruity floral odor of jasmin. Delta Damascone A hybrid floral rose compound. Dianthanol A spicy carnation floral rose compound. Di Benzyl Either Faint sweet odor of aubepine. Di Hydro Floralate A light green floral lily like odor not sweet. Di Hydro Iso Eugenol Warm spicy sweet slight floral balsamic odor. Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate Fruity odor of floral jasmin. Di Hydro Linalool Fresh floral citrusy. Di Methyl Anthranilate Heavy orange blossom mandarin peel odor. Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl Warm herbaceous floral reminiscent lilac, eldiflowers. D M B C - Acetate Fresh powerful fruity floral odor of jasmin, lily. D M B C - Propionate Sweet floral fruity of freesia, sweet pea, peony, magnolia. Di Methyl Octanol Waxy dry rosy odor. Di Methyl Octanyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity somewhat waxy odor. D M Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol Soft floral green. D I O L A Reminiscent of sweet lavender oil, herbaceous. Di Phenyl Menthane Harsh geranium leaf, orange blossom type odor on dilution. Di Phenyl Oxide Harsh floral green, metallic geranium rose type. Dorina S A Floral rose specialty base extremely fresh and floral. Dupical Floral, muguet.

Efetaal A floral type odor.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 21 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Ethyl Caproate Strong fruity winey odor of apple blossom, pineapple. Ethyl Laurate Fatty flower petal like odor. Ethyl Linalool Floral oily slight woody green soft odor.

Farenal Powerful intense aldehydic waxy like slightly floral. Farnesol Oil Mildly floral delicately sweet oily fresh green odor. Feuilles E ' Oranger Abs. Eau Floral odor of feuilles d ' oranger. Fleuroxene A strong green floral woody non descript odor. Fleur D ' Oranger Abs. Eau Dry floral herbaceous reminiscent of mandarin leaf oil. Fleur D ' Oranger 175 SA Floral herbaceous odor not sweet or fruity. Floraline Tuberose Concrete Heavy floral almost nauseating sweet heavy slightly spicy odor. Floraline Tuberose Pommade Heavy sweet floral honey like. Floral N A soft slightly green floral odor. Florapal Herbal fresh floral green. Florex A deep not sweet floral rose fragrance. Floromat A floral green type odor. Florosa A light sweet green floral. Florosia A light sweet green floral. Framboise 2222 A sweet fruity floral odor.

Geraniol Mild, and sweet floral rose. Geraniol 60 Sweet floral rose. Geraniol 90 Mild and sweet floral rose. Geraniol X Palmarosa Oil Sweet and floral rose like. Geraniol Extra Sweet floral rose coeur grade. Geranium Algerian Lighter more rosy leafy. Geranium Moroccan Sweet and powerful, rosy leafy slightly herbaceous odor. Geranyl Acetate Sweet fruity floral rosy. Geranyl Acetate Extra The finest sweet fruity floral rosy material available at low cost. Geranyl Acetone Fresh floral light, but rather penetrating sweet rosy light green. Geranyl Anthranilate Heavy sweet floral rose. Geranyl Benzoate Faint rosy, very tenacious mildly floral. Geranyl N Butyrate Sweet rather heavy fruity rosy odor. Geranyl Caproate Fruity geranium rose like. Geranyl Formate Fresh somewhat dry green leafy rosy odor. Geranyl Iso Butyrate Sweeter then n butyrate. Geranyl Phenyl Acetate Soft floral honey rose like. Geranyl Propionate Sweet fruity rose warm.

Hedione Warm, and sweet floral jasmin. Helioforte Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate. Heliomet Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate. Heliotropex B - 2226 Liquid form of heliotropin, very sweet and floral. Heliotropex N M Replacement Warm powdery floral like.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 22

Heliotropine Sweet floral warm slightly spicy, in dilution - cherry pie. Heliotropine N Liquid form of heliotropine very sweet floral slightly spicy. Heliotropyl Acetate Very sweet light floral with distinct fruity cherry top note. Hexalon Oily sweet slight flowery. Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Mild and sweet oily slightly floral. Hexyl Cyclo Pentanone # 405 Powerful and diffusive dry floral green herbaceous odor. Hexyl Salicylate Faint sweet herbaceous floral odor. Hyacinth Body Powerful leafy green with hyacinth note. Hydratropic Alcohol Coeur Sweet floral, but rather heavy odor of lilac, hyacinth. Hydrofix L Sweet floral lily with a fresh green dry out. Hydrofix R Floral lily. Hydroxycitronellal Sweet floral mild odor of muguet. Hydroxycitronellal X Citronellol Muguet sweet floral green, citrusy fresh. Hysimal Floral, lily of the valley.

Indolarome Diffusive, and powerful floral in extreme dilution. Indole Powerful choking odor, in extreme dilution - floral. Interleven Aldehyde Waxy rose floral. Ionone Alpha Extra Floral violet. Ionone Alpha Regular A very diffusive orris violet. Ionone Alpha Methyl C Floral violet. Ionone Alpha Methyl Naphyl A very faint slightly sweet floral violet type odor. Ionone Alpha Refined Floral violet. Ionone Alpha White Coeur Floral violet. Iralia A very pure orris or violet note of powdery woody character. Iris Aldehyde Extremely powerful, and diffusive orisy odor. Iris Concrete Woody oily violet like odor. Iris Concrete 199 KSA Woody fatty oily but distinctly violet floral. Irival Orris. Irone Alpha Refined Soft warm orris violet like sweet and diffusive. Iso Butyl Benzoate Weak fresh orisy odor. Iso Butyl Salicylate Sweet harsh herbaceous floral. Iso Cyclo Citral Powerful and diffusive floral green. Iso Damascone A nice sweet slightly fruity green rose complex. Iso Eugenol Mild and sweet deep floral carnation like. Iso Eugenol # 6504 A sweet spicy warm floral odor of carnation very nice. Iso Eugenol Ethyl Acetal Spicy floral carnation like, softer. Iso Jasmone Isomeric floral jasmin mixture. Iso Phytol Virtually odorless pure, carries dry leaf tea like odor. Iso Plugeol Minty herbaceous reminiscent of first smell of tuberose.

Jacinthe 127 SA A reconstruction of the natural oil. Jacintheme 135 SA Reminiscent of the green floral heart of hyacinth. Jasmal Powerful oily herbaceous warm jasmin odor.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 23 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Jasmaprunate Fruity like apple jasmin dry slight green like wild grapes. Jasmin # 187 A sweet floral fruity jasmin floral complex. Jasmin Abs. Floral jasmin not overly sweet like cananga oil. Jasmin Abs. Concrete Syn. A pleasant fruity sweet floral jasmin odor. Jasmin Abs. Italian Max. The purest heart of the floral jasmin. Jasmin Egyptian An extremely fine floral jasmin fragrance. Jasmin Petals Abs. Egypt A sweet strong jasmin green floral petal like odor. Jasmolactone Sweet fruity floral jasmin. Jasmo Lactone CNC Oily fruity floral petal like odor. Jasmonyl Intensely sweet floral jasmin. Jessemal Herbaceous floral jasmin.

Kir Base # 9741 Woody floral complex with amber violet note. Koavone Woody floral complex with amber violet note.

Lactone CIS Jasmone # 114 Soft floral odor of jasmin. Lactone CIS Jasmone # 411 Floral waxy jasmin absolute character. Laevo Citronellol Fresh and light rosy leafy. Lavandin Abrialis Sweet floral herbaceous lavandin. Lavandin Abs. Strong herbaceous with a camphoraceous character. Lavandin Abs. In Color Powerful camphoraceous herbaceous floral type odor. Lavandin Concrete Captures the heart of the sweet lavandin flower. Lavandin Grosso Sweet balsamic herbaceous. Lavandin Grosso C - 8713 Sweet herbaceous slightly camphoraceous lavandin. Lavender Abs. Barren Green Powerful balsamic camphoraceous, herbaceous floral odor. Lavender 40/42 Sweet floral herbaceous. Lavender Oil Spiked Typically sweet, balsamic and herbaceous. Lavender Oil Spike Sub. 2707 Fresh herbaceous lavender like. Liffarome Violet green. Lilial Sweet yet refreshing floral green. Lile Strallis 22 Fresh light green floral, reminiscent of lilial. Linalool Floral. Linalool Intermediate Light and refreshing floral woody odor. Linalool Oxide Powerful sweet woody floral. Linalool Terpenes Floral woody iris, quite harsh odor not pleasant. Linalyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity odor, bergamot pear. Linalyl Benzoate Balsamic floral bergamot fruity odor. Linalyl Butyrate Heavy fruity sweet bergamot like. Linalyl Formate Fresh citrusy green bergamot like. Linalyl Iso Butyrate More floral less fruity then n butyrate. Linalyl Propionate Fruity floral fresh very sweet bergamot. Lychee Green floral, very pleasant in extreme dilution. Lyral Delicately sweet, light and floral.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 24

Mallow A slightly green sweet floral fragrance. Merion A diffusive floral oriental woody complex. Methoxy Ortho Cinnamic Ald. Sweet and warm spicy floral. Methyl Acetophenone Pungent harsh warm sweet odor. Methyl Acetyl Anthranilate Floral linden blossom not nice. Methyl Anisate Sweet herbaceous delicately floral odor. Methyl Anthranilate Musty, fruity & dry floral odor reminiscent of concord grapes. Methyl Benzaldehyde Warm mildly floral sweet spicy odor of benzaldehyde. Methyl Benzoate Heavy sweet deep floral odor reminiscent of tropical flowers. Methyl Hexyl Ketone Pleasant floral bitter green, slightly musty. Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra Orris violet floral. Methyl Ionone Extra Mild floral odor of violets. Methyl Ionone Gamma A A floral violet woody isomeric mixture. Methyl Ionone Gamma X Mild floral odor of violets. Methyl Ionone Regular Mild floral odor of violets. Methyl I G Replacer Familiar woody floral complex, tobacco like undertone. Methyl Iso Residue Harsh floral violet slight woody. Methyl I G Supreme Floral violet woody fruity comlplex. Methyl Ionone Tails A harsh woody floral violet odor, reminiscent of ionone beta. Methyl Iso Eugenol Sweet and warm mild floral tea like slightly spicy. Methyl Jasmonate Powerful herbaceous floral. Methyl Lavandin Ketone Floral sweet lavandin like. Methyl Lavender Ketone Sweet floral lavender. Methyl Nonyl Ketone Fruity rosy orange like. Methyl Octine Carbonate Green violet leaf like. Methyl Para Cresol Sharp and sweet, dilution - ylang, hyacinth & wallflower. Methyl Phenyl Carbinol Earth green reminiscent of gardenia and hyacinth. Methyl Tuberate Floral most likely tuberose, rose like material not sweet. Mimosa Abs. Essence A green floral delicately mimosa like. Mimosa Abs. Morocco Powerful floral green. Mimosa Odor Essence Green floral capturing the heart of the mimosa flower. Mirabelle 2000 A fruity floral creation. Muguet Aldehyde 50 Diffusive green muguet lily type odor. Mugone 207M A faintly sweet muguet floral odor extremely viscous.

Neo Jasmin # 937 Sweet floral jasmin. Neral Crude 88 % Sweet floral citral lemony floral. Nerol Sweet rosy refreshing wet seashore like. Nerol A Sweet rosy refreshing. Nerol Petals Sweet rosy leafy refreshing. Nerol Special A fresh sea shore like floral rose. Neroli Bigarrade Moroccan Sweet spicy orange blossom obtained from sour orange. Nerolidol Mild and delicately floral slight green reminiscent of apple lily.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 25 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Nerolin Bromelia Crystals Soft floral. Neryl Acetate Very sweet fruity, floral odor of raspberry rose. 2,6, Nonadienal # 332 Intense powerful vegetable green, reminiscent of violet leaves. 2,6,Nona 1 al Diethyl Acetal Smooth floral violet, melon odor.

Octanol 2 A floral rosy fresh odor. Octanol Nitrile 10 B - 2216 A rosy floral odor. Octyl Formate Powerful, and relatively diffusive fruity green orris. Oranger Crystals Sweet and very tenacious orange blossom. Oranger Liquid Sweet floral rather harsh orange blossom. Orris Concrete A floral green violet like odor. Orris Oil Floral violet. Orris Resin Abs. Floral violet. Orris Resinoid A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor. Osmantha Floral. Osmanthus CC Abs. A sweet floral jasmin odor slightly green. Osmanthus NT 5232 A sweet floral jasmin odor. Oxyertaline Formate A faint green slightly sweet floral door.

Palmarosa Oil Sweet floral rosy odor. Para Cresyl Acetate Lily like odor. Para Cresyl Iso Butyrate Pronounced lily narcisus like odor. Para Cresyl Methyl Floral odor of wallflower, and ylang ylang. Para Cresyl Phenyl Acetate Floral odor of lily, hyacinth, jonquil. Para Cresyl Redistilled Floral odor. Para Methyl Quinoline Powerful and penetrating, dilution - sweet floral and tobacco like. Para Methoxy Acetophenone Sweet, but somewhat harsh hay like odor. Parmavert Powerful floral green, sweet and violet leaf like. Petilyn A very delicate and faint light green floral. Petitgrain Bigarade Oil Pleasant fresh floral sweet odor. Petitgrain Citronner Oil Distinct and pleasant, a fresh lemony floral woody odor. Petitgrain Oil Moroccan A fresh lemony floral woody odor extremely tenacious. Petitgrain Oil S A A fresh lemony floral woody odor. Petitgrain Oil Terpeneless Diffusive less better sweet floral woody odor. Petitgrainol Intensely woody neroli note. Phenoxanal Fresh floral rose. Phenoxy Ethanol Mild rosy, but also metallic. Phenoxy Ethyl Alcohol Mild honey rose odor. Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Sweet fruity rosy floral. Phenyl Di Methyl Acetal Powerful green earthy flower stem like odor. Phenyl Ethyl Acetal Warm, green leafy also rosy balsamic odor. Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor. Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Mild and warm rose honey like odor. Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate Very faint floral balsamic odor reminiscent of dry rose petals.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 26

Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate Very faint and sweet pleasant balsamic rosy odor. Phenyl Ethyl Formate Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor. Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Fresh fruity tea rose type. Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether Powerful diffusive, dilution - jasmin tobacco like. Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Heavy and very sweet floral balsamic odor, musky honey like. Phenyl Ethyl Pivalate Floral possibly faintly rosy pratically no odor. Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity. Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate Faint, but sweet and delicate balsamic floral. Phenyl Propyl Acetate Fresh floral powerful fruity green. Phenyl Propyl Alcohol Warm and mild balsamic floral, sweet odor. Phenyl Propyl Aldehyde Floral hyacinth, lilac, balsamic green. Phixia Sweet, floral at first delicate refreshing mild. Phytia Abs. Powerful floral herbaceous balsamic, not sweet. Phytol Delicate floral balsamic notes reminiscent of nerolidol, farnesol. Pivarose Floral tea rose. Piviane 2 A sweet rosy floral fragrance. Polarose Powerful fatty oily waxy rosy odor. Pseudo M I Terpenes A harsh floral violet like odor.

Racinia A dry floral rose complex. Reseda Body Delicate, but powerful hyacinth, narcisus, reseda note. Rhodinol X Citronella Naturally sweet rosy floral. Rhodinol Coeur Geranium rose. Rhodinyl Acetate Sweet, light refreshing rose muguet, green leafy notes. Rhodinyl N Butyrate Intensely sweet mellow fruity deep rosy. Rhodinyl Formate Fresh leafy green delicate rosy. Rhodinyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet, very deep soft honey like rose. Rhodinyl Propionate Rich and sweet fruity floral rose geranium type. Rhodinyl Salicylate Very weak sweet rosy powdery balsamic odor. Rhodinyl Valerate Heavy fruity, slightly earthy green, but also sweet odor. Rosacene A nice light delicate floral rose compound not overly sweet. Rosalva Powerful fatty oily, waxy rose odor. Rose Abs. Moroccan Extremely fresh and sweet floral rose odor. Rose Abs. Turkey A tenacious diffusive sweet floral, truly captures fresh flower. Rose Crystals Mild, at first very weak green rosy balsamic odor. Rose Essence 193 A very strong, but yet sweet floral rosy fresh odor. Rose Essence Bulgare A very diffusive vivacious rose odor, slightly sweet floral nice. Rosemary Oil Woody herbaceous, reminiscent of spike lavender oil. Rose Nitrile Rich rose geranium woody iris. Rose Oil Moroccan Deep sweet, rich and tenacious floral rose. Rose Oil Moroccan Select The finest moroccan rose fragrance at an attractive cost. Rose Oil Templar A typical sweet rose odor whose source is rooted in English lore. Rose Oil Turkey Diffusive strong vibrant floral rose scent reminiscent of the rose.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 27 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Rose Oil Turkey Commercial An extremely floral typical rose odor, not intense over powering. Rose Oil Turkish Sweet floral rose. Rose Orient Intensely rose like, mysterious, diffusive, rounded and nice. Rose Oxide R Reminiscent of rose geranium.

Scennal A fresh green floral lily type odor. Scentennal Powerful green refreshing watery floral. Schiff Base Methyl Anthranilate/Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde. Schiff Base Methyl Anthranilate/Hydroxycitronellal. Schiff Base Methyl Anthranilate/Lilial. Schiff Base Methyl Anthranilate/Triplal. Sclarene A very faint, but yet sweet floral odor. Sino Citral Fresh citral lemony with a floral background. Styrallyl Acetate Powerful and penetrating green floral in dilution. Styallyl Alcohol Dry floral earthy green, lilac, jasmin, mimosa, type odor. Styrallyl Propionate Balsmaic green floral type odor. Styrax Essence CD Has a pleasant balsamic odor recalling hyacinth and hawthorne. Styrax Clarified Sweet balsamic odor with a hyacinth like floral background. Styrax Provence Essence Sweet balsamic odor, floral in extreme dilution. Styrax Purified Sweet balsamic odor with a hyacinth tuberose background. Sweet Pea Resembles orange blossom, hyacinth and a touch of rose. Sweet Pea Double Not sweet strong or heavy floral odor. Syringa Floral odor of muguet and neroli oil. Syringa 1523 Soft and very tenacious floral odor.

Terpineol Extra Delicate floral sweet lilac type perfume grade. Terpineol Prime Delicate floral sweet lilac. Terpineol 350 Delicately floral reminscent of lilac. Tepyl Acetate Oily herbaceous floral and sweet earthy odor. Tetra Hydra Linalool Sweet oily and delicately floral. Tetra Hydra Mugol Fresh sweet floral odor. Tetralide Musky powdery floral. The 71795 Tea/Floral. Tolu Balsam Oil Warm balsamic and hyacinth like. Tolu Balsam Alva Essence A tenacious diffusive balsamic hyacinth in dilution like. Tolu Balsam Resinoid Warm and balsamic hyacinth like. Tolyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity and mildly green. Trans De Cadro Beta Naphyl Floral rosy. Trans 4 Decenal # 382 Has a fruity rose aldehydic character. Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate Fruity floral. Tuberanthia S A Tuberose Tuberose Abs. A heavy sweet almost nauseating floral odor of tuberose. Tuberose Pommade A heavy sweet almost overpowering tuberose odor.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 28

Undecavertol Strong, however not over powering slightly green floral odor.

Vanoris Woody fruity, soft refreshing odor of mild orris type. Vartol # 915 Floral rose type odor very dry. Velutone Faint, but sweet floral fruity odor. Violet Abs. French Strong herbaceous floral violet. Violet Abs. Rue Herbaceous floral violet, not as sweet as the french oil. Violet Abs. Selection Strong floral violet odor. Violet Colorless 54.5219 Herbaceous floral odor of the violet. Violet Leaf Abs. N.Y. 11149 Green floral violet, very subtle slight sweet. Violet F ' Builles Abs. Slightly violet, not strong or sweet.

Wild Pimento Oil Resembles spike lavender oil.

X.I. Aldehyde Powerful hay melon ozone note, floral aspect.

Yara Yara Crystals Intensely sweet orange blossom, acacia like. Ylang Ylang Abs. Intensely sweet floral, and very diffusive odor. Ylang Ylang Complete Powerful, and intensely sweet, but also soft balsamic floral odor. Ylang Ylang Concrete Rich sweet, and intensely floral. Ylang Ylang Oil Sweet floral, and intensely floral. Ylang Ylang Oil Extra Very powerful floral intensely sweet of cresylic benzoate type. Ylang Ylang " First " In between quality generally a mixture of different fractions. Ylang Ylang " Second " In between quality generally a mixture of different fractions.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 29 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floral Floral

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Bergamot 3 % - Dry

Jasmin, Rose, Violet Green Fruity

Middle Jasmin 10 %

Rose 24 % - Warm, Violet 3 %, Muguet 3 % Floral

Lilac 1 %, Carnation 6 %

Base Musk 6.5 % Warm

Tonka - Trace, Sandal 1 %, Moss - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 3 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 % Hercolyn - D 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 25 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 30

Floral Floral # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Oakmoss Givco 214 1 Top Rose ABQ 5644 6 Cedrafix 18 Linalool 28 Traseolide 700 Base 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Civet Tincture 5 DMBC - Acetate 7 Di Hydro Coumarex 1 Bergamal 24 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Undecatriene 3 Helioforte 1 Geranyl Linalool 12 Sandalwood Substitute 4 Verdantiol 8 Benteine .1 Fleurs d’Oranger abs. artess 39 Galaxolide Artessence 1 Cyclrose 1 Alpha Damascone 11 Phenylethylacetate 3 Gardenia Ether 14 Terpineol Perfume Grade 98 Hedione .1 Rose Oil Templar 3 Helional 8 Iraldeine 100 % 14 Eugenol 12 Linalyl Acetate 35 Hercolyn - D .2 Mirabeeel 2000 D 8 Cyclosia Base .1 Folione 6 Di Hydro Eugenol 3 Santalol 27 Citronellol 1 Strawberry Aroma Base 48 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Tuberose Oliffac 4 Super Cepionate 4 Iononyl Acetate 1 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Acetato Geraniol 9 Di Metil Octanol 1 Muguet Alcohol 38 Muguet Base 8 alpha - Ionone 7 Anisic Aldehyde - Basf Germany 1,000 275 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 3 Phixia .1 Alcool C - 9 1 Poirinate 3 Appila Augaflor 5 175 Geraniol 3 Sweet Pea .1 Myrrh Essence

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 31 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Alcool Benzilico 1 Bitter Orange Ivory Coast Oil 4 Brahmanol 4 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate 1 Moss Oliffac .1 Nonadienal 64 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Iris Beurre Essence 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 MDJ .1 Civet Base # 9 6 Indian Santal Core 1 Amber Core 3 Lilivert 73 Benzyle Acetate .1 Narcissus abs. - France 10 Iso E Super 25 Linalol Coeur 18 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye 1 Jasmone 7 Traseolide .1 Love - in - idleness 12 Eugenol 2 Merion 3 Fleuramone 53 Linalyl acetate Pure FCC 33 Carnation Base 4 alpha - Ionone 1 Rosone .1 Rose Absolute - Turkey 3 Eugenol, Iso 1 Orinox 15 Jasmin Province Base 3 Lyral 1 Iso Rose 2 Jasmonyl Acetate 4 Cashmeran 4 Scennal 15 Ionone Alpha 60 .1 Leaf Acetal 35 Hercolin - D 1 Abies Alba Needle Oil 8 Citronellol 750 4 Neryl Acetate 4 Massada 1 Tangerinol 1 Helioforte 16 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 309 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 163 Geraniol 1 Troenan 5 Benteine 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 6 Tangerine, C.P. Brazil 1 Carnation Augaflor 13 Bergamot Oil Substitute 1 Florymoss .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 32

Floral Floral # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

63 Galaxolide Artessence 1 Cananga 4 Helional 3 Peomosa .1 Civet Augaflor 3 .1 Leaf Alcohol 38 Hercolyn - D 4 Jasmin 9 Sandalwood Substitute 9 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl - Acetate .1 Musk Abs. C’Less .1 Ylang Heart No. 3 5 Vanillin 11 Peach Aroma Base 26 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 9 - Decen - 1 - OL .1 Mousse Essence Abs. 4 Lily Hexanol 3 Anisalcohol 1 Meranol 1 Damascenone 19 Linalol 34 Benzylsalicylate 1 Cassione 51 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Pamplemousse E. Blanc 3 Coumone .1 Rose Oil Otto 4 Hydroxycitronellol 97 % .1 Nonadienal 9 Lindenol 11 Linalyl Acetate 8 Citronellol 4 Methyl Amyl Ketone 6 Anisic Aldehyde - Basf Germany 2 Nerol 90 % 1 Benzophenone 5 Iridales 3 Ethyl Vanisal 7 2 - n - Hexyl Cyclopentanone 37 Rose Base # 60 4 Sandalore 4 Methyl Heptenone 3 Floral N 119 Geraniol 1 Orris Oil 83 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000 9 Cetonal V 304 Di Propileno Glico 8 Lyral 9 Methyl Iso Eguenol 7 Ionone Alpha 60 39 Benzyl Acetate 3 Apple Blossom 7 Bergamot Oils .1 Alcohol C - 8 4 Scennal

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 33 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Orange 5 %

Hexyl Salicylate 1 % Strawberry 1 %, Muguet 2 %, Bergamot 3 % Fruity

Lavender 3 %

Middle Jasmin 8 %

Violet 9 %, Rose 6 % Floral Powdery - Cedarwood & Aubepine Hawthorn 5 %, Lily 2 %, Lilac 4 %

Base Cedar 4 %

Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood 3 %, Musk 2 % Powdery

Civet - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 34

Floral Floral # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 11 Linalool 38 Cedarwood Oil Texas .1 Alcohol C - 10 9 Sandalore 4 p - Cresyl Methyl Ether 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Turpentine Oil, Portugal 11 Coumarin Substitute .4 Methyl Cinnimate 1 Styrax Oil Honduras 16 Hydroxycitronellal 27 Powdery Base 35 Geraniol 5 Cedrafix 4 Vetiveryl Acetate Popular 11 Sanjinol .1 Germacrene D’Natural 40 % PC 192 3 Heliotropine .1 Damascenone 1 Anisyl Alcohol 16 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 5 Cedro ( Arvore ) 51 Orange Guinea 22 Galaxolide 50 2 Tuberose Augaflor 25 9 Amyris 1 Vertifloreol 6 Vanillin 3 Aldehyde C - 24 Poire 15 Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal 8 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate 7 Cedrenyl Acetate 4 Myraldyl Acetate 10 Lilie 3 Nectarine 3 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate 61 Hedione 25 Linalyl Acetate 47 Aubepine 3 Nerol 96 % 1 Irone V 1 Mirabelle 2000 D 9 Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 4 Lysmeral 75 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Rosewood Texas Rectified 34 Terpineol 3 Iso Amyl Geranate 292 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Muguet Alcohol 3 Elintaal Forte 1 Neroli Artessence 22 Jasmin Artificial Base .1 Florane 5 Iso Raldeine 95 1 Gelsol F 4 Citronellol 17 Benzophenone 1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 35 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzoato Benzila 6 Galbanum Givco 121 8 Vanillina ( China ) .1 Alcool C - 9 41 Cedarwood Texas Oil 1 Maive Sylvestris Mall 23 Benzophenone 14 Bergamot Oil Substitute 44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Methyl Jasmonate 29 Sandalwood Extender .1 Tagetes Afrique Du Sed 1 Rose Crystals 17 Hexyl Salicylate 24 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Stawberry pure 1 Tonquitone Super 6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Vanillin, ethyl .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Iso Damascone 19 Coumane .1 Violet Leaf Oil Abs. 48 Aubepine 2 Syringa Aldehyde 1 Iso Jasmone 14 Lavender 58/52 22 Powdery Base .1 Neroli Oxide 65 Hedione 2 Jasmorogne 12 Acetate Benzila Fenil .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso 1 Musk Ambrette 3 Lysmeral 3 Heliotropine .1 2, 6 Nonadienal # 332 6 Citronellol 4 Iso Raldeine 95 4 Sandalore 1 Neryl Acetate 9 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 3 Fraisse 3333 SA 12 Ionones For Soap 53 Orange Oil Juicy 5 Leonile 3 Para Cresyl Redistilled 301 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 Muguet Aldehyde 54 Geraniol 98 1 Cassia Bark Oil China 28 Terpineol Prime 4 y - Irone 71 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 6 Hydroxycitronellal 3 Hawthorne 1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 36

Floral Floral # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethopian Tincture 5 Lavender Oil 40/42 23 Benzophenone 6 Strawberry pure 1 Bisabolene 23 Linalyl Acetate 26 Cedre Atlas .1 Styrax Essence 41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 14 Hexyle Salicylate 18 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 6 Ionone Alpha White Coeur .1 Musk Abs. C’Less .1 Aldehyde C - 10 21 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 3 Nerol 49 Hawthorn 53 Orange Oil Florida Valencia C.P. 11 Benzyle Phenyl Acetate 1 Jasilyn 18 Cou Marin .3 Fraisberry 9 Benteine 4 Ionone - alpha 16 Benzyl Alcohol 5 Bergamot Oil Substitute 8 Sandalwood 12 Muguet Aldehyde 50 7 Vanilina 3 Iso Jasmone 67 Claigeon ( MDJ ) 8 Linalol 10 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 3 Muguet Augaflor 16 28 Powdery Base .1 Nonadienal .1 Oakwood Extract 1 Bergamot Ivory Coast 7 Citronellol 750 .1 Leaf Alcohol 4 Vanillin, ethyl .1 Rose Orient 3 Para Cresyl redistilled 3 Hydrofix R 71 Iraldeine Standard Substitute .1 Rosa Damascenia 8 Muguesia 6 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 53 Geraniol 3 Geranium over Roses 4 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 3 Lavender Oil Std. 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Massada 281 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 37 Lilac Base 4 Methyl Cedrylone 1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 37 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Pineapple 1 %

Lime 1 %, Bergamot 7 %, Neroli .5 % Fruity Sweet

Melon .75 %, Apple .5 %, Pear 1 % Middle Jasmin 10 %

Cinnamic Alcohol 1 % Carnation 2 %, Rose 9 %, Muguet 6 % Floral Fresh Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 % Violet 3 %

Base Galbanum 1.5 %

Moss - Trace, Amber - Trace, Sandalwood 3 % Sweet Mossy

Musk 3 %, Styrax .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 3 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 31 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 38

Floral Floral # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

15 Galbanum Res. 3918P 31 Linalool 98 % 3 Benzoin Gum Siam # 3 - Laos .1 Vanilla - Mexican 29 Benzylsalicylate 4 Perryfix 4 Styrax Resinoid 5 Tangerine Oil CP Clear 28 Galaxolide 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute 41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Palmarosa Oil Guatamala 6 Cedarwood Morocco 3 cis - 3 - Heyl Acetate 3 Amber Substitute 4 Viridine .1 Galbanum Resinoid Artessence .1 The 5 Anthea SandalCoeur 1 Cypriol, light 5 Gardenia Oil 3 Pearalate 4 Kephalis 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 14 Osyrol 12 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 43 Hexil Cinnamic Aldeido 4 Sandal, Asia 26 Laurine 3 Anapear - Givaudan 5 Irone 9 Melonyl 86471 VMF 11 Cinnamic Alcohol .1 Rose Oxide L 38 Muguet Base 5 Dimetol 1 Rose Acetate 48 Linalyl Acetate S 96 4 Cedrenyl Acetate 4 Neroli Oliffac 10 Meijiff .3 Cyclal - C 5 Citronellol - Basf 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol 19 Ionone For Soap .1 Rosewood Essence 73 Geraniol .1 Leaf Alcohol 5 Anis Alehyde 1 Cassia FN 10745 324 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 6 Nerolidol 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000 1 Iso Jasmone 1 Benzophenone 97 Benzyl Acetate 1 Undecavertol 3 Lavender Flower 1 Poirenate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 39 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 38 Linalol synthetique 29 Etilen Brasilate 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 14 Galbanum Givco 121 11 Ally Amyl Glycolate 3 Koavonne 3 Ripe Pear 1 Moss Oliffac 52 Muguet Base 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Poirinate 3 Sandela 10 Dimetol 4 Iso - Eugenol 9 Bergamot Oil Substitute 29 Benzylsalicylate 4 Trifernal 6 Styrax Coeur 6 Neroli Oliffac 9 Sandalwood Oil odor type compound 3 Perryfix 10 Cinnamic Alcohol 7 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate 17 Iso Eugenol Replacement 24 Linalyl Acetate 6 Laurine 4 Pine Tree Siberia 37 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Anapear - Givaudan 19 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 1 Berzoate De Methyle 1 Javanol 1 Neroly 3 Hydroxycitronellal A 5 Bonorax 5 Methyl Cedryl Ketone .4 Evening Primrose Oil 22 Citronellol .2 Floreal 3 Gardenia Acetal .1 Methyl Tuberate pure 1 Rosone .1 Trimofix “O” 12 Ionone Alpha 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate 315 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 8 Melonyl 86471 VMF .1 Rosalva 103 Acetate De Benzyle 62 Geraniol 4 Nepalva 3 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate .1 Undecavertol 1 Vern Aldehyde 4 Jasmonyl Acetate 2 Top Muguet 18.326 3 Anapear

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 40

Floral Floral # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amber Base 3 Poirinate .1 Mousse Essence Abs. 5 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 29 Musk Ambrette Substitute 28 Linalool Nat. 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 DMBC - Acetate 1 Rose Crystals 4 Levenalis 3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 3 Top Muguet 18.326 35 Benzylsalicylate 13 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 9 Galbanum - Iran 45 Linalyl Acetate ( Ex Citrata ) .1 Civet 241 Oliffac 3 Viridine 10 alpha - Ionone .3 Rose Oil Moroccan Select 43 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Meijiff 6 Styrax Clarified 4 Di Hydro Myrcenol 101 Acetate De Benzyle 8 Nerol 3 Comfrey .1 Ciclal - C 26 Iso Raldeine Substitute 5 Neroli Oliffac .1 Boise De Gaiac 4 Anapear - Givaudan 9 Cinnamic Alcohol 8 Alpha Ionone White Coeur 55 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 6 Methyl Iso Eugenol 8 Citronellol .1 Perryfix 13 Eugenol .2 Aldehyde C - 111 Lenic 1 Iso Jasmone 4 Tilanol Super 3 Peomosa 3 Nerol 8 Dupical 1 White Grapefruit Israeli Oil 6 Laurine Extra 3 Cedrenyl Acetate 9 Iraldeine 100 % 1,000 304 Di Propileno Glico 3 Applinal 77 Geraniol 4 Scennal 3 Pearlate 5 Methoxymelonal 3 Glycoflor .1 Undecavertol 6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 9 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 8 Lime Oil C.P. Mexico

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 41 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Peach 1 %

Lime 3 %, Lemon 2 %, Bergamot 5 %, Floral Fruity

Pineapple 1 %

Middle Lilac 1 %

Amyl Salicylate 1 % Muguet 5 %, Lavender 4 %, Violet 3 % Floral Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 % Rose 5 % - Sweet, Carnation 4 %, Jasmin 2 %

Base Tonka 1 %

Sandalwood 3 %, Cedarwood 2 % Woody

Cutters

Benzyl Propionate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 42

Floral Floral # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

28 Sandela .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 13 Cou Marin 38 Lavender Oil Provenzo .1 Moss Oliffac 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 10 Benzyle Propionate 8 Nectaryl 3 Acetyl Iso Eugenol .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric .1 Civet Abs. 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 25 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Lavender Oil 24 Cedar Atlantic Oil 10 Aldeido C - 14 3 Heliotropine 24 Linalool - China natural 8 Benteine 6 Myrac Aldehyde 12 Amyl Salicylate 3 Sandafleur 2 Iso Jasmon 1 Pimento 5 Anisaldehyde 3 Orangeflor 33 Eugenol 22 Di Hydro Myrcenol 51 Hydroxycitronellal Aub AB 2040 .2 Aldehyde 13 - 13 15 Amil Cinamico Aldeido 37 Linalyl Acetate 4 Cedramber 1 Ionone 100 % 75 Lilac Base 32 Lemon Ivory Coast 22 Cepionate 1 Perryfix 4 Flor De Larange Eter 3 Jasmonyl Acetate 19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Floramat 27 Methyl Ionone Gamma 1 Strawberry pure 8 Citronellol 50 1 Muguet Alcohol 13 Benzyl Iso Eugenol Forte 9 Lyral 54 Geraniol 1,000 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 280 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 Iso, Eugenol 6 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1 Florymoss 4 Triplal .1 Black Currant Bud Absoflor 3 Citronica

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 43 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Okumal .1 Alcohol C - 9 32 Iso E Super 53 Muguet Base 3 Sandalore .1 Rose Oil Otto Bulgaria .1 Evernyl 114 Linalol S97 4 Patchouli Oil F 867 5 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl - A 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Undecavertol 9 Galbanum Resinoide .1 Violiff 11 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Geraniol 600 14 Laurine Extra 11 Verdox 1 Vanilla Bean Clair 1 Sur Fleurs d’oranger Oil 11 Peonile 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 75 Super Cepionate 27 Linalyl Acetate 5 Brahmanol .1 Folione 2 Javanol 3 Di Ethyl Malonate 9 Lilial 5 Florhydral 68 Ionone For Soap Base .1 Leaf Alcohol 4 Methyl Para Cresole 3 Neroli Bigarad 8 Citronellol 1 Styrallyl Acetate 11 Iso Amyl Geranate 8 Tangerine, Florida 12 Gardenia Base 3 Nerol 36 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Top Galbanum 18.326 SAB 23 Aubepine .1 Methyl Tuberate 5 Geranyl Acetate .1 Geranio Bourbon 9 Lavende Verte 338 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 15 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 1,000 34 Geraniol 3 Anisalcohol 5 Lyral 8 Ionone Alpha 60 33 Galaxolide 50 1 Poirinate 3 Galbanodor 2 Florymoss 6 Triplal

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 44

Floral Floral # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Benzoin Siam Resinoid .1 Rose Glycol 12 Alicate 4 Eugenyl Acetate 33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 4 Vanillin 12 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 29 Sandela 7 Myrac Aldehyde 11 Benzyle Propionate 1 Thyme White Oil 6 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 3 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate 7 Koavonne .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 22 Acetato Benzila 22 Lemon P.G. 9 Ionone Alpha 24 Linalool Ex Bdr 10 Salicylate D’Amyle 1 Acetate De Geranyle .1 Adoxal .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate 9 Di Metil Phenyl Etil Carbinol 1 Florosia 85 Lilac Base 1 Pepperwood 3 Pommerol 4 Lyrame 15 Lavender Oil 3 Nerol 22 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 22 Di Hydro Myrcenol 9 Citronellol 750 2 Concord Grape, Red 13 Eugenol .3 Iso Rose 1 Vanilla Resinoid 33 Linalyl Acetate 51 Geraniol 98 6 Menthanyl Acetate 33 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Jasmone 6 Diola 5 Benzyl Iso Eugenol 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 299 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 15 Ionone Alpha Refined 1,000 1 Rose Crystals 11 Methyl Iso Eugenol 3 Anisaldehyde 24 Cedarwood Oil Port Orford 26 Lyral 33 Methyl Lavender Ketone 4 Methyl Pamplemousse 3 Cassie Egypt 11 Aldeido C - 14 9 Triplal

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 45 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Violet Notes

Lime 1.25 %, Rose, Bergamot 5 % Green

Orange 2 %, Basil 1 % Middle Jasmin 6 % Amyl Salicylate 1 % Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Rose 26 %, Muguet 6 %, Violet 3 % Floral Cinnamic Alcohol 1 % Lilac 5 %, Carnation 1 %

Base Resin Tolu 1 %

Sandalwood 1 %, Vanilla 2 %, Moss - Trace Light Balsamic

Myrrh - Trace, Patchouli .5 %, Styrax .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 46

Floral Floral # 5a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Styrax Resinoide 4 Vanilla Inco 3 1 Rose Crystals 27 Lyral 12 Vanillin .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Malus Sylvestris Mill - Apple 9 Patchouli Oil - Light Color 1 Jasmonyl 6 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid 22 Orange Oil Sweet - US 10 Salicylate D’Amyl 4 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate 1 Mousse De Chenne 8 Dihydromyrcenol 23 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 1 Myrrh Resinoid Washed .1 Methyl Octin Carbonate Substitute 6 Hyacinth Body # 1 1 Ciclal - C 65 Benzyl Acetate 7 Hydroxyciol 11 Ethyl, Vanillin 4 Menthanyl Acetate 8 Cinnamic Alcohol .2 Alcohol C - 9 10 Eugenol 23 Orange Florida Valencia 12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Verdyl Propionate 8 Methyl Cedryl Ketone .1 Bramble Florida Water 7 Citronellol 1 Neryl Acetate 3 Acetate D’Iso Eugenyl 4 Litsea Cubeba Oil 10 Osyrol 7 Orange Aldeido 11 Iraldeine Substitute 9 Alpha Ionone 70 % 45 Geraniol 60 3 Jasilyn 48 Terpineol Prime 3 Hysimal 304 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 1 Cetonal 11 Iso Eugenol Replacement 25 Methyl Ionone Gamma .1 Rosalva 19 Lilial 87 Phenylethylalcohol 1 1, 3, 5 Undecatriene FCC .1 Aldehyde C - 10 .3 Methyl Heptenon 1 Cassia Oil - Viet Nam

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 47 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 5b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Amyris Oil E.I. .1 Aldehyde C - 10 5 Patchouli Crude 9 Di Hydro Myrcenol 23 Benzylsalicylate 1 Tuberose Augaflor 25 12 Vanillin .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 10 Resin Tolu Substitute 23 Linalool .1 Evernyl .1 2, 6 Nonadienal # 332 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Anisylalcohol 53 Super Cepionate .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 4 Indisan 11 Mehtyl Ionone For Soap 11 Amyl Salicylate 9 Dimetol 6 Myrrh Resinoid Washed 4 Methyl Pamplemousse 12 Cinnamique Alcool .1 Alcool C - 8 10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 38 Linalyl Acetate 28 Iraldeine Substitute 4 Verdyl Propionate 5 Styrax Eal Resinoid 3 Neroli Oliffac 4 Iso - Eugenol 2 OJ Carbinyl STV 9 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Rose Turkey 7 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Orange Flower Water Tunisia 9 Kephalis .1 Violet Leaf 143 Geraniol 60 1 Iso Rose 7 Iso Eugenol Replacement 4 Florhydral 5 Hyacinth PP 3 Geranyl Acetate 2 Javanol 3 Tilanol NP 14 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 1 Melfloral .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. 23 Citronellol Pure 306 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 5 Cetone V 3 Eugenol USP 1 Rose Acetate 47 Lilac Base 3 Boisnal 39 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 22 Orange Oil Florida C.P. Valencia 6 Verdyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 48

Floral Floral # 5c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Sandalwood Oil Nardanised 1 Vetynal Extra .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 4 Muguet Aldehyde 33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 23 Orange Oils 1 Mousse De Chenne 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute 4 Sandela 1 Carnaline 5 Tolu Resinoid 10 Terpineol P.G. 12 Vanillin 5 Verdyl Acetate 10 Amyl Salicylate .4 Aldehyde C - 12 Lenic 6 Patchouli Cark .1 Folione 65 Benzyle Acetate 29 Linalyl Acetate .1 Alcohol C - 8 9 Dimetol 29 Iraldeine Standard Substitute .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 24 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Methyl Jasmonate 11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 7 Verdyl Propionate 1 Myrrh Resinoid Washed 4 Eugenyl Acetate 9 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Aldehyde Iso C - 11 12 Styrax Clarified 3 Basil, Sweet 10 Cinnamique Alcool .1 Undecatriene .6 Sandiff .1 Tea Essence 3 Anther 1 Heliotropin Di Ethyl Acetal 97 Geraniol .1 Rose Otto Oil 14 Hyacinth Base 1 Petilyn 9 Lyrame Super 24 Ionone Alpha 1 Rose Crystals 299 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Hyacinth Body # 1 1,000 4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 7 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Methyl Para Cresole 79 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Aldehyde C - 10 14 Linalol 63 Muguet Base 27 Citronellol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 49 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Basil 1 %

Orange 5 %, Bergamot 4 % - Fruity, Green Notes Floral Herbaceous

Middle Rose 14 % - Sweet

Hexyl Salicylate 2 % Lavender 4 %, Violet 3 %, Muguet 5 % Floral Terpinyl Acetate 2 % Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 % Vanilla 4 %

Base Tonka 1 %, Musk 2 %, Sandalwood 3 % Sweet

Civet - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 50

Floral Floral # 6a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Orange Sweet USA 27 Sandalwood Extender 1 Vanillyl Alcohol 8 Coumarin 7 Ionone Alpha 19 Vanillin 12 Terpinyl Acetate 24 Musk Gx 50 % in DEP 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Ocimenyl Acetate .1 Civet Base # 3 1 Geranyl Acetate 9 Benzylsalicylate 3 Clarycet 1 Ambrinol .3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico 6 Helional 5 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate 4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 2 Jessemal 3 Florosia 11 Fir Needle Canadian 15 Ethyl Vanisal 4 Herboxane 13 Eugenol 5 Fir Needle Canadian 46 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 7 Verdyl Propionate 1 Doremox 6 Lindenol 1 Rose Crystals .1 Undecavertol 4 Cashmeran 1 Neryl Acetate 52 Super Cepionate 3 Koavonne .1 Rosalva 27 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate 32 Lavender Fresh 50/51 .1 Leaf Alcohol 16 Iso Bornyl Acetate 1 Cantryl 7 Citronellol 3 Helioboquet 18 Carnation Base 1 Physalis 263 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .3 Caryophellene Acetate 4 Benteine 118 Geraniol 980 Pure 3 Levenalis 1,000 1 Helioforte .1 Alcool C - 09 53 Muguet Base 14 Linalool Extra 99 % 46 Orange Base 3 Basil Oil Sweet USA 16 Hexyl Salicylate 3 Bonorax

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 51 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 6b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

23 Vanillin 14 Amyl Salicylate 4 Brahmanol 3 Macrolide 10 Benzyl Benzoate 6 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate 26 Etilen Brasilate 3 Helional 8 Cou Marin 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Rose Turkey Abs. - Turkey 29 Sandalwood Substitute 4 Dihydro Floralol 9 Benzyl Salicylate 2 Styrallylacetate .1 Civet Tincture 3 Troenan 1 Galbanum Resinoid 48 Orange Sweet Argentina Valencia 18 Ethyl Vanillin 17 Linalool 57 Acetato Benzila .1 Rose Oxide L 36 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Basil Oil ( Ocimum Cynan Oil ) 6 Amyris Oil W.I. .1 Orange Essence Oil 1 Levanalis .1 Viola Oderata L. 5 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 1 Roseate 2 Serenolide 2 Gelsol F 39 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Verdyl Propionate 6 Citronellol 3 Myraldyl Acetate 9 Methyl Lavender Ketone 28 Linalyl Acetate 22 Eugenol 5 Nerol 5 Hydrofix R .3 Muguet Alcohol 77 Geraniol 60 % 1 Petilyn 46 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Ylang Givco 225 289 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Iridales 1 Iso Rose 3 Sandalore .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1,000 19 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 3 Apple Juice Givco .1 Aldehyde C - 10 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 33 Lavender Bulgaria Oil

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 52

Floral Floral # 6c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Coumane 55 Orange Oil Valencia 18 Vanisal 18 Linalool 9 Benzyl Benzoate 1 Shiso 1 Benzoin Siam # 2 2 Styrallyl Acetate 57 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Cassia rectified 29 Sandalwood Extender 4 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate 9 Benzylsalicylate 1 Cyclemone A .1 Civet Base .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 7 Hexyl Salicylate 23 Amyl Salicylate 4 Eugenol Iso 18 Fir Needle Oil Canada .1 Nonadienal 6 Anther 3 Cassifex 8 Osyrol 1 Cinnamon Leaf 43 Hedione 3 Diola 8 Benteine 5 Methyl Jasmonate 18 Irone Alpha 6 Verdyl Propionate 14 Citronellol Pure .1 Jasmin Indian Abs. 1 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 58 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Geranyl Acetate 15 Eugenol 1 Gelsone 19 Rose For Soap Base 4 Irone V 118 Geraniol 60 .2 Acetato Para Cresol 3 Brahmanol 3 Flor De Laranga Eter 23 Lilial .1 Ylang Oil # 3 9 Iraldeine 100 % 1 Muguet Augaflor 18 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 276 Di Propileno Glico 4 Myraldyl Acetate 1,000 1 Amberonne 27 Lyral 33 Linalyl Acetate 1 Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal 3 Nutmeg Oil - Sir Lanka .1 Alcohol C - 8

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 53 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Bergamot 11 % - Fruity

Orange 3 %, Neroli 1 %, Lemon 1 %, Lime 1 %, Wintergreen - Trace Fruity

Grapefruit 1 %, Peach 1 %, Lavender - Trace, Cherry, Strawberry .25 %

Middle Rose 11 % - Warm

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Muguet 4 %, Violet 3 %, Jasmin 2 % Floral Vertofix 2 % Green Accord Lily 1 %, Carnation 3 %

Base Cedarwood 3 %

Vanilla - Trace, Tonka 3 %, Musk 1 % Sweet

Sandalwood 1 %, Patchouli .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Propionate 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 4 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 % Di Propylene Glycol 31 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 54

Floral Floral # 7a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Vanilline .3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 31 Coumarin Substitute 48 Linalool Coeur 12 Benzyle Propionate 1 Vanillyl Alcohol 1 Musk 50 DPG 6 Ionone Alpha White Coeur 24 Cedarwood Oil Port Orford .1 Celery Essence 5 Patchone 5 Aldeido C - 16 39 Benzyl Salicylate 34 Orange Oil, Sweet 3 Vanillinethyl .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate 48 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 7 Dimetol 8 Musk Ambrette Substitute .3 Alcohol C - 10 22 Amil Cinamico Aldeido 6 Tangerine Flavor Oil Natural 6 Cedrenyl Acetate 1 Meranol 5 Sandalore .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic 23 Vertofix Coeur 11 Grapefruit Brazil 18 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 8 Nectaryl 7 Lilie .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 5 Muguet Aldehyde 6 Ionone Alpha 70 % 8 Citronellol Prime 3 Methyl Lavender Ketone 4 Balsam Peru Oil 58 Linalyl Acetate 23 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Neroli Oil Tunisian 49 Geraniol .1 Geraniol 600 1 Rhovanil Natural 1 Floramat 36 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 7 Peach Pure - Givaudan 65 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 1,000 .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1 Rose Oxide R 4 Meijiff 3 Cedraclaire 19 Eugenol .3 Witergreen Oil 1 Tuberose Substitute 5 Benzaldehyde .1 Rose Templar

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 55 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 7b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Iso E Super .1 Viola Odorata 3 Vanillin .3 Alcohol C - 10 31 Cedarwood Oil Virginia .1 Orange Bitter Africa 26 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 6 Benzaldehyde 48 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Florymoss 7 Patchouli Oil Light 6 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate 14 Etilen Brasilate 4 Eugenyl Acetate 5 Benzyl Propionate 38 Orange Oil Florida 9 Sandalore .1 Leaf Alcohol 11 Nepalva .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 38 Benzyl Salicylate 5 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 1 Ethyl Vanisal 3 Nerol Coeur .1 Rosalva 1 Bisabolene 27 Vetiver Extender .1 Methyl Salicylate 4 Balsam Peru Oil .5 Aldheyde C - 12 Lauric 19 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Neroli Oil - Citrus Aurantism 1 Sweet Grass 4 Tangeria Oil Extra 4 Tonka Resinoid 1 Neryl Acetate 3 Methyl Benzoate 11 Lemon Spain 14 Citronellol 1 Hydrofix L 3 Guaicwood Acetate .1 Neroliflor .1 Rose Oil Templar 57 Linalyl Acetate 2 Anisyl Alcohol 9 Grapefruit Oil California 6 Benteine 6 Peach Blossom FM - 1042 55 Geraniol 60 1 Aldehyde C - 16 324 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 58 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000 5 Lavender Oil Bulgarian 1 Alpha Damascone 38 Linalol 38 Muguet Base 13 Tuberose Substitute 28 Eugenol 1 Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 56

Floral Floral # 7b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Vanisal 1 Guaiyl Acetate 1 Patchone 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 14 Vertofix Coeur 3 Eugenyl Acetate 9 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A .1 Alcohol C - 10 11 Benzyle Propionate 9 Phenyle Ethyl Acetate 28 Cou Marin .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 53 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Benzaldehyde 98 % 6 Patchouli Oil .3 Geraniol 600 42 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 3 Sandalwood Super Eco 1 Anisyl Alcohol 12 Persicol SA 11 Vetiver Extender 4 Aldehyde C - 16 3 Cedrenyl Acetate 8 Lime Oil Roses Type 001 10 Amil Cinamic Aldeido .1 Folione 14 Citronellol 1 Vanillyl Alcohol 2 Ethyl Vanillin 38 Linalool 1 Rose Acetal 6 Neroli Oliffac 4 Sandalore 12 Grapefruit 66 Rose For Soap Base 3 Diola 3 Methyl Diantilis 2 Truffle Oil 5 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 33 Orange Oil Sweet - Sicilian 9 Lilie 10 Lemon Oil, Argentina 6 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Bonorax 35 Eugenol .1 Fraise 3333 SA .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 4 Heliotropine 48 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,0000 9 Ionone Intermediate Base 314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 37 Lyral .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 1 Methyl Salicylate .1 Aldeido C - 10 22 Super Cepionate 53 Geraniol 60 68 Linalyl Acetate .1 Methyl Cinnimate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 57 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Neroli 1 %

Orange 3 %, Lemon 1 %, Lavender 1 %, Strawberry .5 % Floral Fruity

Bergamot 11 % - Fruity, Wintergreen - Trace, Grapefruit 1 %, Peach 1 %, Lime 1 %

Middle Rose 7 % - Warm

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Muguet 4 %, Violet 3 %, Jasmin 2 % Floral Vertofix 3 % Cinnamic Alcohol 1 % Lily 1.5 %, Carnation 3 %

Base Cedarwood 3 %

Vanilla 2 %, Tonka 3 %, Musk 1 % Warm

Sandalwood 2 %, Patchouli .75 %

Cutters

Benzyl Propionate 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 3 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 % Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 58

Floral Floral # 8a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Brahmanol 10 Aroma Peach Base 48 Di Ethyl Phthalate 10 Lavender Oliffac 9 Vanillin .1 Alcohol C - 9 12 Galaxoide 5 Clementine (o) 10 Benzyle Propionate 42 Linalool Natural 28 Coumane 3 Methyl Cedrylone 9 Vanillin, ethyl .3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico 30 Cedar Atlantica Oil 8 Neroli Bigarade 8 Patchouli Rectified Oil 1 Azarbre 32 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 14 Peach Aldehyde 1 Methyl Salicylate 6 Hydroxycitronellal 10 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol .1 Orange, Blood Tarocco 8 Canada Fir Balsam .2 Aldeido C - 11 Undecilenic 21 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Jasmone 19 Benzyl Acetate 3 Galbanodor 6 Methyl Benzoate 5 Dimetol 13 Para Cresyl redistilled .1 Methyl Cinnimate 29 Vertofix Coeur 56 Linalyl Acetate 38 Muguet Base 4 Grapefruitone 4 Rosone .1 Rose Oxide R 11 Ionone Alpha Refined 12 Lemon Oil Spanish 6 Diola 1 Fraise 3333 SA 8 Citronellol 4 Sandalore 17 Jasmin Province Base 3 Tangerinol 9 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 1 Balsam Peru Oil 295 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 35 Geraniol 26 Carnation Base 3 Lyrame Super 9 Cinnamic Alcohol 17 Sandalwood Substitute 29 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 10 Grapefruit Oil C.P. FCC .1 Alcohol C - 10 4 Lime Oil 410

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 59 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 8b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Vanillin ex Clove Oil .7 Alcohol C - 10 11 Helional 1 Lime Oil W.I. Distilled .1 Rose Crystals 1 Pommerol 42 ( DEP ) .1 Aldehdye C - 10 19 Osyrol 1 Floreal 7 Patchouli Light 3 Beramot Calabria 9 Benzyle Propionate .5 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 3 Geranium,Egypt 4 Tangerina 30 Benzylsalicylate 7 Methyl Jasmonate pure 9 Ethylene Brassylate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 22 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 51 Linalyl Acetate Extra 97.5 % 26 Cedro ( Arvore ) 38 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Milfoil East European 8 Dimetol 6 Vanillin, ethyl 1 Syvertal 48 Hydroxycitronellal A 1 Pearlate 25 Vertofix Coeur .1 Methyl Salicylate 6 Metil Benzoato .1 Leaf Alcohol 18 Benzyl Iso Eugenol 903 1 Iso Eugenol .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 11 Grapefruit, Oil Florida - US 20 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Supafleur 5 Citronellol Coeur 2 Neroli Oil Morocco 3 Meijiff 11 Persicol 14 Para Cresyl redistilled 4 Kephalis 27 Ionone For Soap 2 Nerol 9 Methyl Iso Eugenol 9 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 4 Indisan 38 Linalool 300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 23 Carnation Base 3 Methyl Cedrylone 1,000 13 Ionone Alpha Refined 9 Cinnamic Alcohol 8 Lavender Fine 35 Orange Sweet 12 Lemon Guinea .1 Aldehyde C 11 - 11 1 Vamba 25 Geraniol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 60

Floral Floral # 8c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Musk 50 DEP .3 Alcool C - 10 3 Rose Crystals 35 Orange Peel Oil Sweet China 28 Cou Marin 2 Vetiver Java 1 Amber Base 13 Orange Oil - Citrus Sinensius 50 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Methyl Geranate 29 Cedarwood Atlas .3 Aldehyde C - 10 18 Sandalore 1 Chandanone 8 Benzyle Propionate .1 Rose Damascenia 13 Vanillin 3 Lioral 9 Patchouli Oil MD .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenico 29 Benzyl Salicylate 8 Irisone Bis 4 Helioropine 63 Linalyl Acetate 3 Cedrafix 1 Methyl Octyl Ketone 18 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Laurico 23 Benzyl Acetate 99 % 13 Dimetol 9 Ethyl Vanisal 1 Amberwood 4 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol 9 Lemon Oil Cold Pressed 32 Vertofix Coeur 4 Hydroxyciol 43 Geraniol .1 Parmavert 8 y - Irone 11 Grapefruit White 6 Ethylene Brassylate 1 Anisalcohol 1 Jasmone 10 Lavender Bulgaria 9 Metil Benzoato 1 Methyl Salicylate 12 Ionone Alpha Refined 3 Para Cresyl redistilled 7 Citronellol 1 Bergamot Calabrian Supreme 44 Muguet Base 276 Proplino Glico 7 Javanol 1,000 45 Linalol 15 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 33 Carnation Base 12 Peach Aldehyde .1 Alcohol C - 8 1 Myraldyl Acetate 9 Neroli Oliffac

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 61 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floral Bouquet

FLORAL BOUQUET

The Floral Bouquet fmaily is feminine, and is new and one of my favorites. Some perfumer’s refer it as a Frangipianni. In my mind it can be based on jasmin, rose, muguet, gardenia, carnation or for that matter any floral material. The direction of this group can be based on any theme including fresh floral top notes and fruity arrangements.

Top Lemon 2 %

Rose - Trace, Bergamot 6 %, Pineapple 1 % Floral Fruity

Strawberry

Middle Rose 11 % - Sweet

Muguet 9 %, Violet 6 %, Lilac 4 % Floral

Jasmin 5 %, Carnation 2 %

Base Sandalwood 4 %

Cedar 3 %, Vanilla 3 % Sweet

Musk 5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 5 % Benzyl Benzoate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 62

Floral Bouquet # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Iso & Super .1 Rose Bulgria .1 Vanilla Absolute 18 Lemon Oil of California 3 Acetate Iso Eugenol .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 35 SandalwoodSubstitute .1 Methyl Cinnimate 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 White Rose 4 Cedrafix 12 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 15 Vanillin 4 Nerol .1 Mousse D’ Arbre 10 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 5 Anandol .1 Leaf Alcohol 9 Irisone Pure 1 Methyl Tuberate Pure 13 Ethyl Vanillin .1 Folione 28 Cedarwood China BPC 37 Linalyl Acetate 53 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Strawberry pure 1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Grapefruit Pink 22 Laurine Extra 1 Nerolidol .1 Vanilla Absolute 4 Bergamot C.P. Italy 71 Muguet Base 2 Top Galbanum 18.326 38 Terpineol Prime 1 Poirinate 3 Metil Benzoato .1 Ylang Heart No. 3 6 Citronellol 3 Hysimal 18 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Roseardia Augaflor 21 11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Cyclogalbonate 83 Geraniol 1 Melonis 1 Sandalore 1 Neryl Acetate 326 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 6 Rose Artificial 3 Iso - Eugenol 1,000 4 Geranyl Acetate 1 Bisabolene 6 Lilial 38 Benzyl Salicylate 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 24 Linalol .1 Alcohol C - 8 1 Carnaline

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 63 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Bouquet # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Osyrol 2 Cananga Oil Java 1 Vanilla Bean Clear .1 Ionone 38 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 17 Vanillin 1 Methyl Diantilis 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 24 Lemon Oil, Brazil 29 Sandalwood Extender 9 Rose Base 1 Gardenia Fleuriff .1 Leaf Alcohol 11 Benzyle Benzoate .1 Tagette Flower 1 Piperonal ( Heliotropine ) 3 Persicol 18 Cedarwood Oil of Virginia .1 3 - Octanol 44 Acetate De Benzyle .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute 15 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Para Cresyl redistilled 3 Cedrenyl Acetate 33 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate 6 Lilial 2 Pollenal 2 8 Sandalo Misore .1 Orange Flower Ether 5 Citronellol 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 38 Terpineol PG 3 Lemon Sicilian Pelarice 1 Heliomet 2 Neryl Acetate 3 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Iso Jasmone 22 Iso Eugenol Replacement 5 Lilestrallis 22 7 Anisic Aldehyde .1 Rose China Oil 64 Geraniol 60 3 Jarraral 3 Kephalis 2 Santalol 78 Muguet Base 314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 9 alpha - Ionone 1,000 14 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Sandalwood Oliffac 6 Methyl Iso Eugenol 43 Iraldeine Standard Substitute 6 Orange Sweet Israel 27 Linalol 1 Top Galbanum 18.326 .1 Alcohol C - 9 4 Strawberry Aldehyde

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 64

Floral Bouquet # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

37 Sandalwood Oil Substitute .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Heliogan 14 Vanillin 3 Phenoxanol 11 Benzyl Benzoate 1 Vanillyl Alcohol 5 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Mimosa Abs. 6 Vanilla Beans, Indonesia 4 Nerol 96 % 4 Anthea Sandal Coeur 3 Aldehyde C - 16 33 Cedarwood Oil Microscopy .1 Methyl Tuberate 11 Vanillin, ethyl 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 46 Benyzl Acetate FFC .1 Viola Odorata 48 Benzyl Slaicylate - IFF 1 Cananga Java 59 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso 3 Sandalore 1 Bonorax 1 Hydroxycitronellal 97 % 3 Carnation Augaflor 51 .1 Rosalva 1 Hydroxyciol 1 Aubepine 4 Alpha - Ionol 23 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Pamplemousse E. Blanc 6 alpha - Ionone 1 Galbanum Oil Artessence 14 Citronellol 1 Iris Beurre Oil 35 Terpineol Prime 27 Linalyl Acetate 25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 3 Nerol 84 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa 2 Nectaryl 43 Muguet Base 4 Di Hydro Jasmone .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1 Alpha Damascone 290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 3 Lilial 9 Phenylethylalcohol 1 Sandiff 27 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 18 Linalol .1 Neroli Egypt Essence 23 Lemon Oil South African .1 Alcool C - 8 4 Strawberry Aldehyde 1 Noz Moscada

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 65 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL BOUQUET

Top Bergamot 3 %

Ylang Ylang 1 %, Green Notes 1 %, Lavender .5 % Fresh Fruity

Peach - Trace

Middle Rose 19 %

Jasmin 5 %, Violet 5 %, Lilac 1 % Floral Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 % Carnation 1 %, Muguet 5 %

Base Musk 3 %

Tonka 1.5 %, Cedarwood 3 %, Sandalwood 3 % Warm

Amber - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 66

Floral Bouquet # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

13 Musk Cetona 19 Vanoris .1 Ambrinol - Firmenich .6 Tuberose Oliffac 8 Alicate 12 Linalol Natural 6 Iso E Super .3 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic 9 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Galbanum Oil Artessence 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 7 Lavender Oil 40/42 14 Traseolide 3 Muguet Des Bois 11793 6 Levanalis 4 Cyclorose .1 Heliomet 37 Methyl Ionone Gamma 5 Di Hydro Coumarex .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 28 Cedarwood Rectified 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 49 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Citrus Corps 37 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Para Cresyl Acetate 1 Flor De Laranja Eter .1 Alcohol C - 9 46 Benzyle Acetate 4 Methyl Benzoate 149 Rose Substitute 2 Styrallyl Acetate 6 Hydroxycitronellal A 4 Helioboquet .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate 1 Honeysuckle 12 Citronellol 850 2 Meranol 10 Methyl Iso Eugenol 24 Linalyl Acetate .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 3 Scennal 22 Lilac Base 1 Orris Oil - Italy 304 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol 1 Bois Amberene Forte 8 Florida Oil Guinea 4 Di Methyl Octanol .1 Geraniol 600 46 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .1 Kir Base # 9741 2 Syringa Aldehyde 17 Phenylethylalcohol 3 Phenyle Ethyl Acetate 1,000 1 Atralone .1 Aldeido C - 10

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 67 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Bouquet # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Chandanone .1 Rosa Centifolia 9 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .1 Sandalwood Essence 22 Sandela 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate 38 Ethylene Brassylate 1 Mugone S207M 9 Di Hydro Coumarex 3 Nectaryl 32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Linalool 29 Cedarwood Texas 4 Hydroxyciol .1 Atralone .1 Rose Oxide R 5 Sandec Givco 1 Cassia 4 Benzyl Iso Eugenol .2 Methyl Tuberate 6 Traseolide 22 Linalyl Acetate 5 Khoavone 4 Gardenia Fleuriff 17 Lavender Oil - France 11 Ylang Ylang Substitute 19 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Meranol 28 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Tamarind Oil 15 Hydroxycitronellal 99 % 3 Jasmorange F .1 Alcohol C - 8 2 Kohinool 11 Eugenol USP 1 Neroli Oliffac 24 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 143 Geraniol 1 Vanilla Mexicana 12 Terpineol ( Perfumery Grade ) .1 Rose 37 Rose Substitute 1 Geranyl Linalool .1 Exaltolide 3 Aquamor 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol 325 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Benzoin Resinoid 1,000 18 Citronellol 11 Irisone Pure 63 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Florymoss 16 Iso Nonyl Acetate 4 Geranyl Acetate .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso 1 Scennal 1 Geranium Oil Bourbon 3 Jasmone

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 68

Floral Bouquet # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Powder 5 Meijiff 1 Mousse De Chenne 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Muguet Alcohol 14 Coumarin Extra Pure 4 Tuberose Oliffac 28 Traseolide 3 Linacol 31 Cedarwood Oil Texas 2 Pasion Fruit 5 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 3 Heliotropine 13 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 10 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Syringa 6 Musc BRB .1 Bulgaflor 3 Kephalis .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 4 Amyris Oil .1 Rose Abs. Bulgarian 1 Benzyl Iso Eugenol 24 Vanoris 38 Aldeido Cinamic Amil 3 Bergamot Oil Ivory Coast 43 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Leaf Alcohol 1 Damascenia 185 SA 1 Citronica 59 Acetato Benzila 4 Trepanol 12 Lindenol .1 Ylang Ylang # 2 19 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Rose Oxide L 4 Sandalwood - Australia 6 Tangerine - Syria 23 Tuberose Sbustitute 1 Geranyl Acetate Pure 5 Lavender Oil, Moldovan 1 Santalyl Acetate 1 Rosone 3 Galbex 183 48 Hydroxycitronellol Pure 99 % FCC 2 Jamaica Oil 339 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Iris Beurre Oil 152 Geraniol 80 1,000 1 Datilat 1 Geranium Oil - Egypt 12 Citronellol 9 Eugenol 3 Naturanate .1 Alcohol C - 10

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 69 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Green Fragrance Chemicals

Acetate C - 9 Powerful fruity green leafy. Aldehyde C - 6 Powerful fatty green grassy odor. Aldehyde C - 8 Soft woody green mildly floral odor. Alfania Base 38228 If a compound based on alfalfa most likely green or herbal. Ambrose Abs. A very strong green floral type fragrance. A C A Di Methyl Acetal Peculiar animal green odor. Amyl Salicylate Sweet herbaceous green slightly floral. Anisyl Formate Sweet herbaceous green somewhat dry odor. Armoise Oil Herbaceous green.

Balinol A green floral compound. Benzyl Formate Powerful fruity green herbaceous. Bois Amberene Forte Green floral odor. Bourgeon De Cassis Green.

Cassis Base 345 B A green fruity floral character. Cassis Fragrance Strong green fruity floral fragrance. CIS 3 Hexenyl Acetate Intensely green sharp fruity, very diffusive, dilution - banana. CIS 3 Hexenyl Benzoate Mild, but tenacious green herbaceous woody odor. CIS 3 Hexyl Alcohol Powerful, and intensely green grassy odor. CIS 3 Hexyl Salicylate. Sweet, slightly green balsamic odor. Citralva Powerful oily green lemony fresh odor. Citronellal Powerful fresh green citrusy, slight woody odor. Citronellyl Formate Pw leafy green fruity rosy fresh and light Rem of geranium rose. Cortex Aldehyde Powerful green woody sap like, but fresh aldehydic sweet. Cumin Aldehyde Extremely powerful diffusive green spicy slightly fatty odor. Cuminic Aldehyde Pungent green herbaceous odor. Cyclal - C Powerful green leafy floral odor. Cyclamen Aldehyde Diffusive powerful floral green stem like odor. Cyclo Galbonate Strong herbaceous green.

Decatone A strong green odor. Di Ethyl Malonate Sweet pleasant fruity green reminiscent of apples. Di M Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol Soft floral green.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 70

Di Phenyl Oxide Harsh floral green.

Ethyl Levlulinate Ethereal fruity, somewhat green and sweet odor. Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate Powerful diffusive green fruity pungent odor Rem of apple peels.

Farnesol Mildly floral delicately sweet oily fresh green odor. Feuillage Vert Base 47.062 Green floral base possessing a cool natural freshness. Fleuroxene A strong green floral woody nondescript odor. Floral N A soft slightly green floral odor. Floromat A floral green type odor. Floropal Herbal fresh floral green. Florosa A light sweet delicately floral green fragrance. Florosia A light sweet green floral.

Galbanum Oil Spring green leafy like. Galbex 183 Woody green herbaceous odor. Geranium Bourbon Green leafy rosy strong. Geranyl Acetone Fresh floral light, but rather penetrating sweet rosy light green. Geranyl Formate Fresh somewhat dry green leafy rosy odor. Grapefruit Body Fleurom Extremely powerful green grapefruit odor. Gyrane A diffusive herbal green type odor.

Heptavert A green woody odor. Herbaflorat Green sweet fruity. Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate Oily sweet fruity green apple, and galbanum like odor. Hexyl Benzoate Woody green piney balsamic odor. Homo Cumminic Aldehyde 50 Pw, diffusive green twiggy effect with cut grass hedge like odor. Hyacinth Body Powerful leafy green with hyacinth note. Hydratropic Aldehyde Very powerful penetrating green earth foilage. Hydratropic A D M Acetal Powerful, earthy warm spicy green deep fruity odor. Hydrofix L Sweet floral lily with a fresh green dry out. Hydroxycitronellal X Citronellol Muguet sweet floral green, citrusy fresh.

Iso Cyclo Citral Powerful and diffusive floral green.

Jacintheme 135 SA Reminiscent of the green floral heart of hyacinth.

Leaf Acetal Extra Powerful oily green odor with a sweet vegetable undertone. Leaf Acetate Intensely green diffusive odor. Leaf Alcohol Powerful fruity green slightly fruity. Leaf Salicylate Sweet, slightly green balsamic odor. Liffarome Violet green. Ligustral Fresh green.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 71 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Lilial Sweet yet refreshing floral green. Lile Strallis 22 Fresh light green floral, reminiscent of lilial. Linalyl Formate Fresh citrusy green bergamot like. Lyral Delicately sweet, light and floral.

Mallow A slightly green sweet floral fragrance. Mayol A sweet green floral material. Melon Enhancer A diffusive green melon type odor. Melonyl 86471 VMF A very nice light sweet green melon odor very diffusive. Methyl Heptenone Extra Fruity green slightly waxy. Methyl Hexyl Ketone Pleasant floral bitter green, slightly musty. Methyl Octine Carbonate Green violet leaf like. Methyl Phenyl Carbinol Earth green reminiscent of gardenia and hyacinth. Mimosa Abs. Essence A green floral delicately mimosa like. Muguet Aldehyde 50 Diffusive green muguet lily type odor.

Nerolidol Mild and delicately floral slight green reminiscent of apple lily. Nerolidyl Acetate Sweet woody and mildly refreshing green.

Olibanum Oil Strongly diffusive fresh terpeney green. Orris Resinoid A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor.

Phenyl Acetaldehyde Powerful green wood sap like. Phenyl A Glycerine Acetal Peculiar oily green earthy ranty, but mild and sweet. Phenyl Di Methyl Acetal Powerful green earthy flower stem like odor. Phenyl Ethyl Acetal Warm, green leafy also rosy balsamic odor. Phenyl Ethyl Formate Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor. Phenyl Propyl Acetate Fresh floral powerful fruity green. Phenyl Propyl Aldehyde Floral hyacinth, lilac, balsamic green.

Rhodinyl Formate Fresh leafy green delicate rosy. Rhodinyl Valerate Heavy fruity, slight earthy green, but also sweet odor. Rose Crystals Mild, at first very weak green rosy balsamic odor.

Scentenal Powerful green refreshing watery floral. Stemone Green slightly herbaceous odor. Strallyl Acetate Powerful and penetrating green floral in dilution. Strallyl Propionate Balsamic green floral type odor. Syringa Aldehyde Powerful and refreshing green fruity forest like sweet odor.

Taget Abs. Intensely herbaceous green with a sweet fruity undertone. Tolyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity and mildly green.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 72

Trans 2 Hexenyl Acetate Powerful and fresh green sweet fruity very natural odor. Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate Powerful herbaceous green and fresh woody odor.

Undecavertol Strong, however not over powering slightly green floral odor.

Vern Aldehyde Fresh green. Vetchouli Green herbaceous odor.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 73 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floral Green

FLORAL GREEN

Top Green Notes 1.5 %

Violet Notes, Cassis .5 %, Melon 1.5 %, Jasmin Green

Pineapple 1 %, Green Materials 2 - 4 %, Apple .5 %

Middle Muguet 5 %

Lily 12 %, Carnation 2 %, Rose 7 % - Sweet Floral

Lilac 2 %, Jasmin 3 %, Violet 3 %

Base Musk 6 %

Tonka .5 %, Sandalwood 1 %, Galbanum 2 % Animalic

Civet - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 74

Floral Green # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

53 Galaxolide 50 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 21 Sandalwood Extender 26 Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso 9 Benzylique Alcool 3 Di Ethyl Malonate 18 Galbanum Coulress A 2 Methyl Jasmonate pure 6 Coumane 4 Cyclamen Aldehyde 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Linalol 5 Javanol .1 Aldehyde C - 8 22 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 4 Top Galbanum 18.326 3 Heliotropine .1 Celery Essence 12 Amyl Cinnamic aldehyde 2 Apple Oliffac .1 Civet Ethiopian 3 Green Base Augaflor 10 34 Hydroxycitronellal A 1 Muguet Alcohol 11 Jasmin Artificial Base .3 Leaf Salicylate 1 Geranodyle 4 Vern Aldehyde 48 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Methyl Tuberate 15 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 3 Scennal 19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 15 Linalyl Acetate 6 Eugenol 2 Cassis Fragrance 4 Methyl Benzoate 1 Iridales 13 Rose Substitute .2 Damascol - 4 19 Lindenol 10 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 12 Citronellol 4 Hydroxyciol 4 Sweet Grass 37 Lilial .1 Rosalva 1,000 315 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Tuberose Oliffac 69 Geraniol 7 Iso & Super 11 Lysmeral 63 Muguet Base 1 Applinal .1 2, 6 Nonaiden 1 OL 14 Styrallyl Acetate 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 75 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Green # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Brahmanol .3 2, 6 Nonadienal 1 Evernyl 3 Petunial 44 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 15 Carnation Base .1 Civet Abs. A 17 Melon Oliffac 9 Santal Core .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 17 Galbanum Res. 3918 P 6 Linalool 925 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Hydroxy Extra 21 Benzyl Alcohol 1 Cyclal - C 9 Cashmeran 4 Apple Oliffac 7 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 22 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 16 Jasmin Artificial 3 Florosa 13 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Limette Pressee Afroid 25 Salicylate D’Benzyle 3 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate 6 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 5 Raspberry Leaves - IFF 4 Verdilyn 1 Tuberose Oliffac 15 Rose Substitute 4 Irisone Pure 9 Eugenol 7 Kir Base # 9741 14 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido 1 Lyrame 25 Ionone Alpha 60 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 3 Cyclo Galbanate 1 Jasmone .1 Rose Oxide L .2 Neryl Acetate 8 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 1 Sandalore .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 14 Citronellol 323 Propileno Glico 1,000 18 Terpineol Prime 114 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 55 Geraniol 90 3 Metil Benzoato 14 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 35 Hedione 4 Top Galbanum 18.326 .1 Aldehyde C - 8 11 Styrallyl Acetate 3 Verdox

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 76

Floral Green # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

53 Ethylene Brassylate 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 21 Sandela 26 Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso 9 Benzylique Alcool 3 Di Ethyl Malonate 18 Galbanum Coulress A 2 Methyl Jasmonate pure 6 Coumane 4 Cyclamen Aldehyde 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Linalol 5 Javanol .1 Aldehyde C - 8 22 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 4 Top Galbanum 18.326 3 Heliotropine .1 Celery Essence 12 alpha Amyl Cinnamic aldehyde 2 Apple Oliffac .1 Civet Tincture 3 Green Base Augaflor 10 34 Hydroxycitronellal A 1 Muguet Alcohol 11 Jasmin Artificial Base .3 Leaf Salicylate 1 Geranodyle 4 Vern Aldehyde 48 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Methyl Tuberate 15 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 3 Scennal 19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 15 Linalyl Acetate 6 Eugenol 2 Cassis Fragrance 4 Methyl Benzoate 1 Iridales 13 Rose For Soap Base .2 Damascol - 4 19 Lindenol 10 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 12 Citronellol 4 Hydroxyciol 4 Sweet Grass 37 Lilial .1 Polarose 1,000 315 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Tuberose Oliffac 69 Geraniol 7 Iso & Super 11 Lysmeral 63 Muguet Base 1 Applinal .1 2, 6 Nonaiden 1 OL 14 Styrallyl Acetate 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 77 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL GREEN

Top Green Notes .6 %

Bergamot 3 % - Fruity, Cassis 1 %, Peach 3 % Fruity Green

Green Materials, Apple 1 %

Middle Carnation 1 %

Muguet 12 %, Jasmin 14 %, Lilac 2 % Floral

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Violet 5 %, Rose 6 % - Warm

Base Musk 2 %

Tonka - Trace, Moss - Trace, Galbanum 1 % Animal Sweet

Cedarwood 2 %

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 3 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 % Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 78

Floral Green # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

13 Iso & Super 2 Di Methyl Octanol 6 Coumane 7 Cassis Fragrance 10 Benzyl Alcohol 11 Muguet Aldehyde 50 .1 Moss Oliffac 4 Styrallyl Acetate 11 Galbanum Resinoid - Iran 5 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate 48 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 14 Linalool 1 Safranal .3 Syringa Aldehyde 29 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Geranylacetoin 17 Musk Ambrette Substitute 1 Cassia Oliffac 8 Cedrenyl Acetate 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 13 Benzoin Resinoid 9 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate 6 Tradeolide 1 Neroli Oil - Morocco 123 Acetate De Benzyle 3 Boisnal 15 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 29 Linalyl Acetate 6 Anis Aldehyde .1 Nonadienal Di Methyl Acetal 3 Cedro ( Folha ) 3 Kir Base # 9741 .1 Roseessence 193 D 1 Jasilyn 62 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Neryl Acetate Primary 5 Jasmonyl Acetate 3 2-n-Hexyl Cyclopentanone 2 Cedraclaire 2 Bois Ambrene Forte .1 Fir Balsam 1 Irotyl V 13 Ionone Alpha Refined .1 Rose Bulgare Oil 6 Heliotropine 4 Persicol 19 Terpineol 2 Cyclamen Aldehyde 8 Pine Oil Light 314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 Citornellol 1,000 1 Methyl Tuberate 8 Jasmin Province Base .1 Alcohol C - 6 103 Muguet Base 3 Apple Blossom FM - 1242 1 Carnaline 18 Geraniol .1 Ylang Heart No. 3 1 Bergamot Oil - FCF 4 Lavender Oil Clonal

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 79 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Green # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Cou Marin 19 Peach Aroma Base 12 Benzyl Alcohol 6 Jasmonyl Acetate 4 Heliotropine 3 Stemone 28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 11 Linalol 19 Galaxolide 50 8 Pech pure - Givaudan .1 Oakmoss Givco 204/2 .1 Mirabelle 2000 34 Benzyl Salicylate 17 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 11 Galbanum Resinoid 1 Petilyn 3 Vanisal 11 Verdox 5 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Aldeido C - 14 14 Ionone Alpha 7 Vert de Cassis Givco 180 6 Musk Gazalle 3 Bois Ambrene Forte 3 Cedrenyl Acetate .3 Ylang Ylang “Second” .2 Cetonal V 2 Appila Augaflor 7 7 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido 2 Persicol SA 3 Kephalis 24 Linalyl Acetate 135 Muguet Base 1 Nerol 11 Eugenol .1 Leaf Alcohol 2 Vanillin, ethyl 7 Green Peach Base 8 Citronellol 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 1 Methyl Jasmonate 4 Neo Galbanum Oil N 35 Geraniol 2 Cyclamen Aldehyde 4 Lyrame Super 1 Boisnal 3 Cedraclaire 3 Gardenia Fleuriff 323 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Florosia 1 Methyl Benzoate 1 Neryl Acetate 4 Di Methyl Octanol 5 Carnaline 12 Ionone Alpha Refined 1,000 .1 Folione 23 Terpineol Prime 120 Benzyl Acetate 4 Acetate De Styralyle 1 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate .1 Rose Oil Turkey

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 80

Floral Green # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Galaxolide 1 Vetiveryl Acetate Popular 3 Heliotropine 3 Bourgenal 11 Alcool Benzilico .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 9 Coumane 4 Nerolidol 18 Traseolide 700 Base 18 Lindenol .1 Atralone 1 Undecatriene 53 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Blue Rus Accord - IFF 3 Heliomet 9 Persicol SA 1 Velvet Rose 4 Nerol 34 Benzyle Salicylate 7 Iso Raldeine .1 Damascenone 9 Aldeido C - 14 10 Alpha Ionyl Acetate 6 Muguet Augaflor 16 4 Cyclogalbaniff .1 Rosessence 17.600B 19 Ionone Alpha 60 12 Verdox 13 Aldeido Hexil Cinamico 10 Linalool 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma .1 Bois De Rose Essence 4 Atlas Cedar 3 Kir Base # 9741 99 Super Cepionate 1 Honeysuckle 107 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 4 Scennal 6 Citronellol .1 Jonquil Abs. 38 Jasmin Province Base 8 Cassis Givco 9 Eugenol 25 Linalyl Acetate 1 Methyl Jasmonate 1 Apritone 1 Lavanda Spliego .2 Rose Orient 44 Geraniol 3 Hydroxycitronellal 97 % 1 Pepperwood 1,000 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 328 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Methyl Para Cresole 22 Peach Pure 4 Cassis Bourgeons 1 Oxanone

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 81 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL GREEN

Top Cassis .5 %

Bergamot 4 %, Peach 7 %, Green Notes 1 % Fruity Green

Apple 1 %

Middle Jasmin 20 %

Lilac 1 %, Violet 3 %, Rose 3 % Floral Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Muguet 13 %

Base Musk 5 %

Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood .5 %, Civet - Trace Warm

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 82

Floral Green # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Emeressence 4 Styrallyl Acetate 10 Alcool Benzilique 8 Apple Juice Givco 123 .1 Civet Base # 5 4 Kir Base # 9741 12 Ferula Galbaniflua .1 2, 6 Nonadien # 332 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Verotyl 38 Ethylene Brassylate 5 Cyclamen Aldehyde 9 Helional 6 Irone Alpha Refined 74 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Neroli Blossom Water .1 Helioforte 1 Muguet Alcohol 93 Benzyl Acetate 5 Applitone OA 114 Muguet Base 3 Stemone 6 Alicate 4 Tangerine ( O ) 1 Serenolide 1 Alpha Damascone 9 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 9 Green Peach Base 1 Cyclomugal 2 Petilyn 8 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol .1 Geraniol Oil pure 4 Florosia 2 Green Augflor Base 7 Lindenol 1 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 6 Citronellol 98 % 11 Peach Pure - Givaudan 1 alpha - Irone .1 Alcohol C - 90 4 Sweet Grass 1 Cyclal - C .1 Rose Oxide l 25 Linalyl Acetate 77 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Perryfix 9 Rose Artificial Base 3 Lavender Oils 303 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 2 Heliogan 23 Geraniol Extra pure 1,000 16 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 1 Jasmone 4 Lyrame Super 12 Linalol Coeur 97 % .1 Galbanum Oil Artessence 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 52 Aldehyde C - 14 1 Tuberose Oliffac

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 83 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Green # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Coumane 9 Bergamot Oil Substitute 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 2, 6 Nonadienal # 332 53 Galaxolide Artessence 14 Peach Pure - Givaudan 9 Benzylalcohol 33 Geraniol 1 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 4 Kir Base # 9741 7 Sandalwood Oliffac 1 Tonka Feve Resinoide .1 Damascenia 185 SA 5 Cassis Fragrance 24 Benzyl Salicylate 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Fluffy Musk - Givaudan 38 Aldehyde C - 14 19 Iraldeine Standard Substitute 27 Linalyl Acetate 73 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 11 Verdox 5 Cedrafix 1 Florosia 4 Etilen Brasilate 4 Cyclamen Aldehyde 78 Muguet Base 1 Bergamot Italian - Citrus Bergamia 9 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 White Vineyard Peach - Givaudan 73 Benzyle Acetate 3 Nerol 4 Iso Amyl Geranate 1 Perryfix 1 Di Hydro Coumarex 4 Applinal 5 Sweet Grasss .3 Bourgenal 9 Citronellol 750 4 Citronet .1 The 3 Di Ethyl Malonate .1 Musk Abs. C’Less 2 Top Galbanum 18.326 15 Terpineol Prime 1 Meranol .1 Rosone .1 Geraniol 600 309 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 Geranyl Phenyl Acetate 5 Ionone Alpha Refined 1,000 .1 Rose Oxide R 6 Myraldyl Acetate 7 Hydrofix L 14 Linalol 17 Methyl Ionone Alpha 5 Acetate De Styralyle 7 Green Base Augaflor 8

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 84

Floral Green # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Heliomet 32 Peach Aroma Base 12 Benzyl Alcohol FR 4 Verbena Oil France 47 Etilen Brasilato 17 Gardenia Base 9 Tonka Resinoid 4 Orange West Indian 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 11 Verdox 6 Galbanolide 1 Bergamot Calabrian Essence 3 Sandalore .1 Black Currant Bud ( Cassis ) Abs. 24 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Vanillyl Alcohol 1 Kephalis 4 Di Ethyl Malonate 1 Cyclal - C 29 Peach Aldehyde 3 Vanillina 1 Bois Ambrene Forte 11 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .2 Raspberry Leaves - IFF 63 MDJ 3 Ferula Galbani Flua .1 Rose Oxide L 3 Jasmonyl Acetate 118 Muguet Base 2 Stemone 11 Cepionate .1 Folione 4 a - Irone 28 Linalyl Acetate 3 Gardenia Fleuriff 4 Styrallyl Acetate 1 Reseda Body 5 Viridine 1 Rose Crystals 3 Pearlate 1 Doremox 4 Muuet Alcohol 28 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Rose Orient 6 Citronellol .2 Cyclomyral 3 Lioral 1 Melfloral .1 Exaltolide 12 Lindenol 24 Geraniol 1,000 292 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 cis - 2 - Hexen - 1 - OL 3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 86 Hedione 5 Cyclamen Aldheyde .1 Aldehyde C - 8 15 Linalol synthetique 3 Kir Base # 9741

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 85 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL GREEN

Top Bergamot 11 % - Fruity

Green Notes .5 %, Tangerine 1.5 %, Berryflor .5 % Fruity Green

Melon 1.5 %, Lavender .5 %

Middle Rose - 13 % Warm

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Kephallis 2 %, Muguet 8 %, Jasmin 7 % Floral

Violet 10 %, Lilac 3 %

Base Musk 3 %

Galbanum 1 %, Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood 1 % Warm

Amber - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 31 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 86

Floral Green # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Galbanum Resinoid .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 9 Santalex T Neat 1 Geranyl Acetate Pure - IFF 4 Amyris Oil W.I. 1 Jonquil Absoflor 13 Iso E Super 3 Styrallyl Acetate 35 Di Ethyl Phthlate (DEP) 1 Green Base Augaflor 5 9 Coumane 5 Aldehyde C - 14 1 Amber Substitute .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 28 Ethylene Brassylate 1 Verdantiol 6 Osyrol 2 Ciclamen Aldeido 11 Hydroxycitronellal “E” 1 Cassis Bourgeons 10 Laurinal 4 Stemone 53 Iraldeine Standard Substitute 8 Lilie 19 Kephalis 2 Cyclal - C 5 Sweet Grass 1 Sweet Pea 33 Super Cepionate 5 Gardenia Ether 54 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Berryflor 6 Methyl Benzoate 12 Amyl Salicylate 22 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 9 Geranyl Acetate For Soap 29 Lilac Base .1 Rose Glycol 1 Benzophenone 4 Methyl Amyl Ketone 15 Jasmin Province Base 10 Ionone Alpha Refined 13 Lilial .1 Leaf Alcohol 8 Citronellol Pure 14 Tangerine Oil - Florida 1 Santalol 1 Cassis Fragrance 301 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Peomosa 48 Geraniol 60 1,000 7 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 3 Oncidal 52 Muguet Base 15 Melon Oliffac .1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Orange Carbonyls 4 Acetate De Styrallyle 6 Hexyle Salicylate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 87 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Green # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

12 Galbanum Resinoid .1 Neroli Egypt Essence 10 Sandalwood Extender 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 14 Muskylein 6 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 11 Salicylate D’Benzyle 3 Palmarosa Indian 12 Helional 14 Tangerinol 1 Amber Base .3 Poirenate .1 Civet Tincture 2 Ciclal - C 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 32 Hidroxicitronelal .3 Sweet Pea .1 Cedrol Crystals 1 Molton Woods - Firmenich 9 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Styrallyl Acetate 17 Musk Z 4 - IFF .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 5 Melfloral 2 Neroli Tunisian 22 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 15 Melon Oliffac 14 Citronellol 96 FCC 1 Petilyn 5 Kephalis 1 Lavender 48/50 % 1 Rhodinol Ex Geranium Oil .1 Alcool C - 9 7 Iso - Eugenol 3 Muguet Alcohol 76 Geraniol 60 .1 Rose - Egypt .1 Musk Abs. C’Less 2 Berryflor .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 1 Iso Jasmone 28 Lilac Base .1 Leaf Alcohol Pure 98 % 43 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Myraldyl Acetate 69 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Tuberose Augaflor 25 318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Aquamor 98 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Tuberose Oliffac 1 Rose Crystals 1,000 6 Lyral 3 Berryflor 78 Muguet Base 1 Anapear - Givaudan 5 Hexyl Salicylate 1 Vandor B 6 Methyl Lavender Ketone 1 Vernol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 88

Floral Green # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Ambre 140 BSA 1 Cis 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 28 Traseolide 700 Base .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 9 Rhodiascent 6 Phenylethylacetate 11 Benzyl Salicylate 2 Acetate De Styralyle 12 Galbanum Select - Ferol Galbanifera 4 Galbex 183 4 Cedryl Acetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 lauric 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Iso Raldeine 70 9 Sandalwood Oil Indonesia 4 Methyl Lavender Ketone 6 Muskylein 3 Sweet Grass 4 Vanilys 6 Tangerinol 9 Hydroxycitronellol 9 Gardenia Fleuriff .1 Cinnamon Bark Ceylon .1 Violiff 66 Benzyle Acetate 6 Green Key KF1 22 Hexil Cinnamic Aldeido 17 Melonyl 85471 VMF 6 Berryflor 34 Linalool 11 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 1 Undecatriene 18 Kephalis .1 Leaf Alcohol 29 Lindenol 3 Ionone 63 Muguet Base 5 Muguet Aldehyde 50 1 Bergamot African 9 Mandarin Oil, Red 9 Citronellol Coeur FCC 52 Linalyl Acetate 6 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Neryl Acetate 73 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Cyclamen Aldehyde 48 Geraniol 14 Lyral 3 Ionone - alpha 1,000 300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Sandalwood Oliffac 1 Cyclal - C .1 Alcohol C - 9 .1 Galbanum Resinoid Artessence 6 Hexyl Salicylate 1 Lily Aldehyde 3 Allyl Phenoxy Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 89 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL GREEN

Top Orange 6 %

Bergamot 4 % - Fruity, Lemon 2 %, Grapefruit 1 % Fruity Green

Green Notes .5 %, Apple - Trace, Petitgrain 1 %, Basil 1 %

Middle Muguet 5 %

Amyl Salicylate 5 % Rose 17 %, Hyacinth 1 %, Violet 1 % Floral Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 % Jasmin 4 %

Base Musk 5 %

Tonka 2 %, Galbanum .5 %, Pine 1 % Mossy Animalic

Moss - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 3 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 90

Floral Green # 5a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Galbanum Oil A 3 Vern Aldehyde 13 Traseolide 2 Triplal 9 Vanillin 1 Rhodiaflor 29 Benzyl Salicylate 6 Styrallyl Acetate 18 Helional .1 Nonadienal 3 Iso Bornyl Crystals .1 Alcohol C - 9 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 18 Linalool Coeur 43 Amyl Salicylate 1 Geranyl Acetate 5 Kephalis 3 Irone V 1 Alpha Damascone 5 Green Base Augaflor 10 49 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 53 Orange Oil Midseason 38 Benzyl Acetate .1 Aldehyde Iso C - 11 23 Etilen Brasilate 2 Neryl Acetate 4 Calyxol 4 Myrac Aldehyde 6 Hyacinth PP .1 Friasse Distille 17 Gardenia Base 4 Verdyl Acetate 8 Alpha Ionone .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 4 Top Galbanum 18.326 1 Tuberose Oliffac 5 Hyacinth 1 Cyclal - C 38 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Orange Aldehyde 3 Florosia 3 Verdox 6 Citronellol 750 7 Verdyl Propionate 5 Gardenia Fleuriff 11 Grapefruit Oil, White, Brazil 13 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 2 Methyl Pamplemousse 113 Geraniol Pure 6 Balsam, Fir Canada 5 Hysimal 9 Petitgrain Oil Paraguay 274 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 7 Cedar Atlantic Oil 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000 8 Lyral 25 Linalyl Acetate 8 Blood Orange Oil .1 Aldehyde C - 8 24 Lemon Oil of California

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 91 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Green # 5b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Galbanum Resinoide .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Triplal .1 Evernyl 1 Vern Aldehyde 28 Musk Ambrette Substitute 3 Tangerinol 1 Rose Crystals 1 Cassis 32 Benzyle Salicylate 50 Amyl Salicylate .1 Alpha Damascone 9 Petitgrain Paraguay 3 Styrax Resinoid 4 Myrac Aldehyde 1 Helioforte .1 Aldehyde C - 10 19 Ethylene Brassylate 11 Linalool .1 Nonadienal 1 Geranyl Phenyl Acetate 62 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Methyl Chamomile 38 Acetate De Benzyl 8 Lyral .1 Rosalva 4 Bergamot Oil - FCF 13 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 25 Lemon Oil Washed 18 Ionone Alpha Refined 4 Appila Augaflor 5 21 Citronellol 1 Orange Aldehyde 37 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Silvial 6 Sweet Grass 1 Jasilyn 101 Geraniol 60 28 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate 3 Nepalva 4 Nerol 14 Jasmin Artificial Base 3 Meijiff 2 Hyacinth PP 3 Osyrol 7 Lilial 1 Vanillin Acetate 282 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 6 MDJ .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1,000 23 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 8 Argumen Substitute .1 Aldehyde C - 24 Poire 3 Top Muguet 18.326 58 Orange Oil Brazilian C.P. 2 Styrallylacetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 92

Floral Green # 5c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

48 Ethylene Brassylate 24 Lemon Oil California .1 Civet Tincture 1 Styrallyl Acetate .1 Evernyl 2 Jasmin Egyptian 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Triplal 9 Galbanum Resinoid 4 Green Base Augaflor 10 32 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Petitgrian Oil Mandariner 19 Cou Marin .3 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 1 Benzophenone 8 Verdyl Propionate 4 Di Metil Benzil Carbinol 5 Myrac Aldehyde 3 Symmusk 63 Orange Oil of Florida 9 Hyacinth PP 1 Aldeido Ciclamen 12 Cetone V 3 Rhodiaflor SoA 73 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Verdox 1 Anisyl Alcohol .1 Leaf Salicylate 14 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 3 Pearalate 7 Sweet Grass 6 Lyral 3 Lavender Oil Standard .1 Orange Aldehyde 12 Citronellol 850 1 Boisnal 37 Iraldeine Standard Substitute 6 Vredyl Acetate 14 Lyral 7 Grapefruit Oil Pink C.P. 8 Pine Oils Natural 70 % 4 Neryl Acetate 113 Geraniol Pure 1 Felandrene 5 Top Galbanum 18.326 3 Iridales 3 Iso, Eugenol 2 Sandalwood Oliffac 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 295 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 16 Tuberose Substitute 1,000 .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 3 Hydrofix R 1 Vert De Bois 480M 43 Benzyl Acetate .1 Alcohol C - 8 3 Vern Aldehyde 3 Di Hydro Nootkatone .1 Aldeido C - 10

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 93 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fruit Fragrance Chemicals

Acetate C - 6 Sweet fruity berry pear like. Alcohol C - 6 Chemical winey, slightly fatty fruity odor. Aldehyde C - 7 Powerful oily fermenting fruity. Aldehyde C - 10 Powerful sweet waxy orange peel like odor. Aldehyde C - 14 Powerful peach odor. Aldehyde C - 16 Sweet fruity candy like strawberry. Aldehyde C - 18 Coconut, in extreme dilution - fruity. Aldehyde C - 19 Pineapple. Aldehyde C - 20 Raspberry. Acetate Iso Eugenol Sweet balsamic spicy fruity odor of clove's. Acetate PA Sharp mixed fruity pineapple like odor, heavy and sweet. Allyl Amyl Glycoate Strong fruity pineapple. Allyl Caproate Fatty fruity, reminiscent of pineapple. Allyl Cyclo Hexyl Propionate Powerful and sweet fruity odor resembles pineapple. Allyl Heptoate Sweet, fruity pungent resembles banana. Alpha Damascone Intense fruity reminiscent of plums and roses. Amyl Acetate Powerful fruity banana like odor. Amyl Butyrate Fruity odor of apricot banana pineapple. Amyl Iso Valerate Fruity ethereal heavy apple like odor. Amyl Phenyl Acetate Fruity balsamic sweet odor. Amyl Propionate Sweet fruity apricot pineapple like odor. Apple Oliffac Fresh green apple. Aurantiol Sweet heavy floral orange blossom lily.

Benzyl Acetate Powerful thin sweet fresh, fruity floral odor of jasmin gardenia. Benzyl Butyrate Heavy fruity floral plum like. Benzyl Formate Powerful fruity green herbaceous. Benzyl Iso Amyl Ether Floral fruity odor somewhat greener and herb than B.A. Benzyl Propionate Fruity sweet, rosy floral. Bergamot Oil FCC Fresh, fruity citrus odor. Bergamyl Acetate A sweet bergamot orange fragrance. Beta Damascone Fruity. Beta Ionone Warm woody dry odor, fruity undertone.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 94 Glen O. Brechbill

Boisnal A very weak and sweet fruity floral odor. Butyl Butyrate Powerful fresh sweet fruity reminiscent of banana pineapple.

Calone 1951 Has a faint fruity melon odor. Casis Base 345B A green fruity floral character. Cinnamyl Acetate Sweet mild balsamic, slightly floral fruity odor. Cinnamyl Iso Butyrate Fresh fruity, mild balsamic, sweet odor, Rem of ripe banana. CIS Jasmone Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral. Citrathal Fruity fresh like odor. Citroflex # 2 Mild sweet winey, fruity plum like. Citronal Fruity. Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Fresh almost citrusy rosy, intensely fruity and sweet odor. Citronellyl N Butyrate Intensely fruity, sweet and somewhat rosy leafy, petal. Citronellyl Formate Powerful leafy green fruity rosy fresh & light Rem of geranium. Citronellyl Propionate Fresh fruity, sweet rosy odor more berry fruity odor.

Damascenia 185 SA Floral fruity rose odor at same time very sweet. Delta Dodelactone Fresh fruity oily odor of good tenacity. Di Ethyl Malonate Sweet pleasant fruity green odor reminiscent of apples. Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate More fruity less floral. D M B C - Acetate Powerful fresh floral fruity slight herbaceous jasmin lily. D M B C - Butyrate Mild herbaceous fruity plum prune like. D M B C - Propionate Sweet floral fruity odor of freesia, sweet pea, peony, magnolia. Di Methyl Malonate Apple ethereal fruity.

Ethyl Acetate Pleasant ethereal fruity brandy like. Ethyl Aceto Acetate Ethereal fruity sweet rum like. Ethyl Anthranilate Sweet fruity grape like milder than methyl ester. Ethyl Benzoate Warm floral fruity. Ethyl Butyrate Powerful ethereal fruity odor of banana, pineapple. Ethyl Caproate Strong fruity winey odor of apple blossom, pineapple. Ethyl Caprylate Fruity winey, and sweet odor Rem of apricot and pineapple. Ethyl Cinnimate Sweet balsamic, fruity honey like odor. Ethyl Heptoate Powerful fruity wine like brandy berry. Ethyl Iso Valerate Powerful and penetrating apple ethereal vinous fruity. Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate Powerful diffusive apple, green fruity pungent of apple skins. Ethyl Pelargonate Slight fatty oily fruity nut like. Ethyl Valerate Fruity apple like.

Gamma Decalactone Peach like. Geranyl Acetate Sweet fruity floral rosy. Geranyl N Butyrate Sweet rather heavy fruity rosy like.

Helioforte Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 95 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Heliomet Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate. Heliotropine Very sweet floral, warm lightly spicy, dilution - cherry pie. Heliotropyl Acetate Very sweet light floral, cherry fruity undertones. Herbaflorat Green sweet fruity. Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate Oily sweet fruity green apple, and galbanum type odor. Hexyl Acetate Sweet fruity berry like, pear like milder then amyl acetate. Hexyl N Butyrate Powerful fruity heavy odor a melange of unripen fruits.

Ionone Beta Pure More fruity, and woody like than alpha. Iso Amyl N Butyrate Powerful diffusive fruity sweet apricot pineapple like odor. Iso Amyl Propionate Sweet fruity apricot pineapple. Iso Butyl Caproate Mild herbaceous woody, but over all fruity oily odor. Iso Damascone A nice sweet slightly fruity green rose complex. Iso Nonyl Acetate Woody fruity soft refreshing odor.

Jasmin # 187 A sweet floral fruity jasmin floral complex. Jasmin Abs. Concrete Syn. A pleasant fruity sweet floral jasmin odor.

Ketopommal Fruity sweet.

Laveo Menthyl Acetate Mild and sweet slightly fruity herbaceous minty odor. Linalyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity recalling bergamot pear. Linalyl Butyrate Heavy fruity sweet bergamot like. Linalyl Iso Butyrate More floral less fruity. Linalyl Propionate Fruity floral.

Manzanate A slightly spicy heavy ethereal fruity apple odor. Melon Oliffac Fresh clean melon odor. Methyl Anthranilate Mostly fruity and dry floral odor reminiscent of concord grapes. Methyl Cinnimate Powerful fruity balsamic like, dilution - strawberry less balsamic. Methyl Heptenone Extra Fruity green slightly waxy. Methyl Heptoate Fruity green slight waxy berry like. Methyl Nonyl Ketone Fruity rosy orange like. Methyl Salicylate Warm sweet rosy fruity. Mirabelle 2000 A fruity floral creation.

Nerolin Bromelia Crystals Delicate and sweet very tenacious floral fruity odor. Neryl Acetate Very sweet fruity, floral odor of raspberry rose. Nopyl Acetate Sweet woody fruity odor.

Octyl Formate Powerful, and relatively diffusive fruity green orris. Oxanone Very sweet fruity warm raspberry odor.

Peach Oliffac Peach.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 96

Persicol Peach. Perryfix Fruity sweet odor of pears, very nice and diffusive. Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Fruity sweet, rosy floral. Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor. Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Fresh fruity tea rose like. Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity. Prenyl Acetate Fresh diffusive, fruity banana, bergamot like.

Raspberry Ketone Very sweet fruity warm odor of raspberry preserves.

Strawberry Oliffac Fresh sweet fruity odor of strawberries.

Trans 2 Hexenyl Acetate Powerful and fresh green sweet fruity very natural odor. Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate Fruity floral. Vanoris Woody fruity, soft refreshing odor of mild orris type. Veltol Warm fruity caramellic sweet odor. Veltol Plus Intensely sweet fruity bread like pleasant odor. Velutone Faint, but sweet floral fruity odor.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 97 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floral Fruity

FLORAL FRUITY

Top Bergamot 9 % - Fruity

Rose - Trace, Strawberry - Trace, Green Notes .5 % Floral Fruity

Lavender 3 %, Orange 1 %, Ylang 1.5 %, Wintergreen - Trace

Middle Muguet 3 %

Hawthorn 2 %, Rose 6 %, Jasmin 4 % Floral

Violet 5 %, Carnation 2 %, Lilac 3 %, Ylang 2 %, Geranium - Trace

Base Musk 2 %

Vanilla 1 %, Tonka 3 %, Balsams 1 %, Warm Balsam

Civet - Trace, Sandal 1 %, Labdanum 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 % Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 98

Floral Fruity # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

18 Galaxolide 3 Geranyl Acetate 2 Coumarin 2 Anapear - Givaudan 23 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Undecatriene 9 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Lolitol .1 Civet Powder # 1A 22 Aubepine 11 Benzyl Benzoate .1 Alcohol C - 10 12 Amyl Salicylate .1 Rose Centifolia 6 Musk Emeressence 1 Methyl Diantilis 7 Labdanum Resinoid 50 %/DPG .2 Aldehdye C - 12 Fram. 1 Amberonne 2 Strawberry Pure 42 Benzyl Acetate .1 Mirabelle 2000D 5 Cedraclaire 11 Orange Oil Sweet 1 Anisyl Alcohol .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 24 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 28 Lavender Oil, Moldovian 8 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 1 Geranyl & Neryl 4 Benzophenone 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 7 Meijiff 52 Linalyl Acetate 35 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Santalol 59 Geraniol .1 Leaf Acetal 7 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol .1 Rose De Mai 1 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 3 Bergamot Oil, Brazilian 3 Sandela 4 Scennal 125 Lilac Base 2 Ionone - alpha 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 cis - Jasmone 1 Javanol 1 Bourgenal 294 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 5 Hyacinth 3 Citronellol 6 Peach Oliffac 1,000 8 Lilial .1 Thyme Oil Red 45 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate .1 Elderflower Extract 44 Linalool Synthetic FCC 11 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 1 Cassia Oliffac

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 99 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fruity # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 1 C - 16 ( Strawberry ) 22 Ethylene Brassylate 6 Lavender 50/52 % 7 Bacdanol .1 Violiff 11 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Aldehyde C - 10 .1 Civet Artificial I.A. 14 Bergamot Oil Substitute 28 Coumarin Substitute 8 Geranyl Acetate 24 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Thyme Captatus Oil 6 Vanisal 14 Orange Bigarade California 9 Benzyl Benzoate 37 Linalol Pure FCC 4 Cashmeran 1 Anapear - Givaudan 18 Sandalwood Mysore Core .1 Vanilla Abs. - Madagascar 1 Cinnamique Aldehyde 1 Nutmeg .1 Rose Oxide R 17 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 33 Hydroxycitronellol 9 Terpineol P.G. 4 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Indian Sandal Core 8 Labdanum Resinoid .1 Niaouli Essence 1 Caryophylline 1 Rose Acetate 3 Eugenol .1 Methyl Salicylate 25 Aubepine ( Anisic Aldehyde ) .1 Leaf Alcohol 127 Lilac Base 1 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 29 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 1 Ylang Oil # 1 8 Citronellol 2 Kephalis 48 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 1 Geraniol 600 .1 Alcohol C - 8 1 Peach Oliffac 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 53 Linalyl Acetate 297 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 14 Ionone For Soap 48 Geraniol 1,000 9 Lyral 1 Bois De Gains 13 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 23 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Aldehyde C - 111 Lenic 3 Styrallylacetate .1 Amyl Salicylate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 100

Floral Fruity

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Benzophenone 9 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 3 Pelargene 9 Benzoin Siam 41 Linalol .1 Civet Base # 1 14 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 6 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid 1 Neryl Acetate Pure 11 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .1 Methyl Salicylate 28 Di Hydro Coumarex 4 Jasmonyl 47 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Rhodiaflor SoA 29 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Amyl Salicylate 11 Sanjinol .1 Methyl Tuberate 8 Benzyl Benzoate 63 Linalyl Acetate 23 MDJ 1 Styrallylacetate 14 Anisic Aldehyde PQ 10 Orange Oil Midseason 1 Thymol Crustals 17 Jasphene 29 Eugenol .1 Aldehyde C - 10 1 Anisylalcohol 1 Mandarin Oil Essence 4 Labdanum Resinoid 1 Vartol 11 Rose For Soap Base 3 Nerol 10 Aldeido Cinamico 1 Methyl Ionone 6 Lavender Chinese .4 Geranylacetoin 7 Di Hydro Eugenol 1 Hydroxyciol 8 Citronellol 1 Strawberry Aldehyde 33 Geraniol .1 Reseda Body 135 Lilac Base 1 Jamaica Oil 19 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 4 Sandalore 1,000 289 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 9 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate 10 Ethylene Brassylate 42 Lyral 1 Meranol .1 Folione .1 Citronellyl Acetate 1 Thyme Oil Redistilled 4 Apium Graveolens Linne

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 101 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY

Top Bergamot 9 %

Wintergreen - Trace Strawberry - .5 %, Green Notes Floral Fruity Spice Notes Lavender 3 %, Orange 1 %, Ylang Ylang 1.5 %, Wintergreen - Trace

Middle Muguet 4 %

Carnation 2 %, Hawthorn 2 %, Rose 6 %, Jasmin 4 %, Violet 5 % Floral Amyl Salicylate 2 % Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Lilac 11 %, Ylang Ylang 4 %, Reseda

Base Musk 3 %

Vanilla 1 %, Tonka 2 %, Balsamic 1 % Balsamic

Sandalwood 1 %, Labdanum 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 % Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 102

Floral Fruity # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

26 Osyrol 10 Peach Pure - Givaudan 9 Alcool Benzila 6 Benzaldehyde .1 Veltol 3 Styrallyl Acetate 3 Amber Base 163 Citroflex # 2 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate 1 Hexyl Salicylate 4 Raspberry Ketone 1 Pepperwood 2 Mousse De Metre 45 Verdox 23 Benzylsalicylate .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate Substitute 9 Muskylein 17 Peach Aroma Base 5 Acetyl Iso Eugenol .1 Styrax Mix - Oil 6 Benzyl Butyrate .1 Alcool C - 9 1 Atalone 13 Fructone 8 Iridales 1 Ciclamen Aldeido 14 Ethyl Aceto Acetate 3 Top Muguet 18.326 3 Cetonal 1 Cassia Oil B & F 11 Iso Eugneol Replacement 2 Sparkling Champagne - IFF 6 y - Irone .1 Nerol Artessence 28 Jasphene 27 Linalyl Acetate 23 Hidroxicitronelal 19 Strawberry pure 10 Citronellol 4 Stemone 7 Laurine Extra 1 Rose Oil Maroc 31 Rose For Soap Base 3 Calendula Officinalis 1 Rosone 1 Anisyl Acetate 5 Eugenol, Iso 4 Kohinool 19 Hydroxycitronellal 97 % 2 Neryl Acetate 8 Methyl Ionone .5 Orange Peels 276 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 65 Geraniol Prime 3 Kir Base # 9741 1,000 3 Rosa Centifolia 19 Linalool 1 Tuberose Augaflor 25 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF .1 Leaf Alcohol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 103 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fruity # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Rosone .2 Alcohol C - 10 12 Tonkarinol 1 Veryflor .1 Civet Powder # 1B 58 Peach Pure - Givaudan 37 Musk 50 DPG 3 Acetyl Eugenol 3 Cedrenyl Acetate 9 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 23 Benzyl Salicylate .3 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic 6 Chandanone 14 Verdox 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Jasmonyl Acetate .1 Vanilla Absolute .1 Aldehyde C - 11 5 Alcool Cinamico .1 Fleurs d ‘ Oranger Abs. Artess 109 Benzyl Acetate 6 Green Peach Base 10 Cashmeran 6 Nerol 3 Benzoin Siam No. 2 .1 Undecatriene 9 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Nonadienal 1 Damascenia 4 Vert de Cassis Givco 180 5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Methyl Pamplemousse 8 Tonka Resinoid 5 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate 13 Citronellol 3 Iris Beurre Oil .1 Rosalva 8 Bergamot C.P. Italy 72 Hedione 1 cis - 3 - Hexnyl Salicylate 1 Rose Templar 11 Persicol SA 16 Lilac Base 1 Tansy Oil Canada 123 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Geranyl Acetate 26 Geraniol 60 1 Orange Essence Oil, Brazil 303 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Lyral 9 Hydroxycitronellal Sub AB2040 1 Mimosa Artessence 1 Cyclal - C 3 Lavender 40/42 5 Gardenia Fleuriff 1,000 1 Beta Damascone 1 Tuberose Oliffac 3 Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan 1 Styrallyl Acetate 2 Lilestralis

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 104

Floral Fruity # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Amberlyn 57 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 35 Cou Marin 19 Nectaryl 10 Patchouli Oil MD 3 Styrallyl Alcohol 8 Vanilline 39 Aurantiol pure 23 Benzyl Benzoate 10 Mandarin Oil Red .1 Mousse Essence Abs. 1 Pepper Oil Black .1 Civet Tincture 1 Geranyle Acetate 19 Sandalwood Substitute .3 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 1 Earth 9 Peach Aldehyde 6 Cinnamique Alcool 3 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 4 Glabanum Resinoid 10 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 6 Helional .1 Folione 9 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 1 Damascenia 15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 34 Linalyl Acetate 1 Geraniol 600 2 Iso, Eugenol 17 Vertofix Coeur 5 Bois Ambrene Forte 9 alpha - Ionone 11 Vetiver Acetate 8 Laurine 4 Tilanol Super 16 Hexil Cinnamic Aldeido 1 Florantone T 3 Di Methyl Octanol 9 Muguet Aldehyde 50 14 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 6 Verdyl Propionate 66 Geraniol Pur 1 C - 14 17 Citronellol .4 Galbanolide 7 Syringa 8 Oxanone 29 Tuberose Substitute 1,000 6 Vanillin, ethyl 335 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 10 Sandec Givco 26 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 13 Grape Base 2 Dianthanol 26 Methyl Anthranilate 15 Linalol S 97

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 105 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY

Top Grape 6 %

Rose, Peach, Bergamot 6 %, Violet Note Floral Fruity

Pineapple 1 %, Raspberry 1 %, Mandarin 1 %, Green Notes 1.5 %

Middle Rose 6 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 % Lilac 3 %, Jasmin 5 %, Violet 1 % Floral Vertofix 1.5 % DMPEC 1 % Lily 6 %, Carnation 5 %, Tuberose 3 % Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 % Patchouli 1 % Base Tonka 3 %, Sandalwood 1 %, Vanilla - Trace, Vetiver 1 % Warm

Amber 1 %, Earth, Galbanum .5 %, Civet - Trace, Moss - Trace

Cutters

Cinnamic Alcohol 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Benzyl Benzoate 1.5 % Benzyl Salicylate 1.5 % Di Propylene Glycol 35 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 106

Floral Fruity # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Amber Base 14 Tuberose Substitute 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 8 Geranyl Acetate .1 Civet Tincture 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 11 Sandalwood Substitute 9 Mandarin Italy 29 Cumarine 6 Styrallylacetate 15 Benzyl Benzoate 7 Aldeido C - 14 29 Cumarine 3 Ethyl Geranate 15 Benzyl Benzaote 1 Iso Jasmonate 9 Patchouli Oil - Indonesia 64 Geraniol 15 Benzyl Salicylate 23 Linalol 11 Galbanum Resinoide 1 Cassia Egypt 4 Vanillin 4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 12 Gardenia Base .1 Rose Oxide 3 Iso Bornyl Crystals 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 54 Benzyl Acetate 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 9 Cinnamique Alcool 35 Linalyl Acetate 1 Earth 17 Aurantiol Pure 34 Hydroxycitronellol 5 Jasmonyl Acetate 12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Raspberry Ketone 9 Cyclosia Base 3 Coriander Leaf 12 Jasmin Artificial Base .1 Undecavertol 11 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 4 Muguet Aldehyde 10 Vertofix Coeur 1 Tuberose Oliffac 15 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Lysmeral 4 Vanillinethyl .4 Bonorax 3 Florex 5 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate 8 Ionone Alpha .1 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal 12 Laurine 1 Apium Graveolens 318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Citronellol 33 Lilac Base 1,000 9 MDJ 48 Iso Eugenol Replacement

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 107 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fruity # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Benzyl Benzoate 10 Ylang Ylang Substitute 3 Amberwood F 11 Mandarin Oil - Washed 9 Patchouly Oil 14 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 11 Sandalwood Extendre 3 Bois Ambrene Forte 3 Vanisal 32 Methyl Anthranilate 1 Anisque Alcool 9 Persicol SA 19 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Syringa Aldehyde 51 Benzyle Acetate 28 Tuberose Substitute 12 Cinnamique Alcool 13 Cyclosia Base - Firmenich .1 Iso Butyl Quinoline 2 Acetate De Styrallyle 17 Benzylsalicylate 28 Linalol .1 Civet Natural 1 Tagette Oil 10 Gardenia Base 13 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 1 Mousse De Chenne .3 Top Muguet 18.326 19 Vertofix Coeur 1 Clove Leaf Madagascar 17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Oxanone 3 Laurine - Givaudan 1 Cyclorose 44 Eugenol 1 Hysimal 11 Jasmin Province Base 5 Gardenia Fleuriff 1 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 2 Jasilyn 45 Lilie 35 Linalyl Acetate 18 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Bois Ambrene Forte 9 Citronellol 1 Canfora 1 Benzoin Siam # 1 .1 Leaf Alcohol 33 Terpineol Prime 42 Geraniol 330 Propileno Glico 1,000 .1 Vanilla Resinoid 8 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Damascenone 4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 27 Aurantiol pure 3 Citronica .1 Violiff

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 108

Floral Fruity # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Amborate 53 Benzyle Acetate 14 Benzoato Benzila 1 Styrallyl Propionate .1 Civette French 2 Aldehyde C - 20 33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 27 Methyl Anthranilate 4 Vanillin .1 Geranium Egyptian Type 22 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 10 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 7 Galbanum Resinoid 12 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 10 Sandalwood Extender 24 Linalol 2 Ethyl Vanillin 6 Raspberry Ketone 9 Cinnamic Alcohol 9 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 28 Helional 1 Styrallylacetate .1 Earth 5 Geranyl Acetate 9 Jasmin Artificial Base .3 Cassia Oil 80/85 % 13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate 10 Laurine Extra 37 Linalyl Acetate S 96 7 Citronellol 3 Bois Amberene Forte 13 Cyclosia Base 22 Hedione 28 Tuberose Substitute 9 Peach Blossom FM - 1042 46 Eugenol 6 Florhydral 35 Geraniol Pure 7 Lysral 17 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 11 Mandarin Oil Italian Select .1 Mousse De Metre .1 Roseessence 193 D 10 Patchouly Light Indonesia Oil .2 Leaf Alcohol 9 Gardenia Base 3 Nerol 13 Ionone Alpha 60 11 Phenyle Ethyl Alcohol 300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 26 Terpineol Prime 9 Methyl Ionone 13 Para Cresyl redistilled 35 Aurantiol 3 Top Galbanum 18.326 2 Dianthanol 12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 109 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY

Top Apple 5 %

Hexyl Salicylate 5 % Green .5 %, Bergamot 5 %, Orange Blossom 1 % Fruity Florhydral .5 % Iso Eugenol Tech .5 % Pear .5 % Rosyrane Super .5 % Delta Damascone .1 % Rose 10 % - Sweet

Middle Jasmin 6 %, Muguet 4 %, Violet 1 % Floral

Peonile 3 % Aubepine .5 %, Carnation .5 % Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4.5 % Galbanum .5 % Base Musk 5 %, Iso E Super 2.5 %, Tonka 1 % Animalic, Amber

Vanilla 1 %, Sandalwood 1.5 % Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 110

Floral Fruity # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol 12 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 1 Benzophenone 37 Verdox 38 Traseolide 700 Base .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 9 Vanillin 14 Geranyl Acetate 7 Iso & Super 18 Linalool 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 22 Hexyle Salicylate 4 Caraway Oil - Ukraine .1 Orange Flower Abs. 23 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Rose Oxide R 8 Javanol 3 Lily Aldehyde 1 Anisyl Alcohol 9 Neroline 27 Peonile 10 Apple Oliffac 62 Acetate De Benzila .1 Alcool C - 8 5 Lilial 27 Linalyl Acetate 41 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Rosyrane Super 4 Florhydral 8 Peach Pure 6 Vanillinethyl 1 Delta Damascone 1 Peomosa 3 Neroli Artessence 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .2 Massada .1 Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Apritone 1 Sandalore 4 Cetonal V 8 Citronellol 8 Mandarin Oil Italian Distilled 21 Lyral 3 Stemone 5 Eugenol 5 Methyl Phenyl Carbinol 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Ionone 17 Jasmin Artificial Base 7 Tangerine Oil Florida 6 Iso Eugenol Tech - Givaudan 318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 83 Geraniol 1,000 1 Sparkling Champagne - IFF 11 Anis Aldehyde PQ 13 DMBC - Acetate 9 Rose Substitute 3 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 5 Spirogalbanone

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 111 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fruity # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol FR 37 Verdox 1 Benzophenone .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 38 Traseolide 700 Base 14 Geranyl Acetate 9 Vanillin 18 Linalool 7 Iso E Super 22 Hexyl Salicylate 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Orange Flower Abs. 4 Caraway Oil - Ukraine .1 Rose Oxide R 23 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Lily Aldehyde 8 Sandela 9 Neroline 1 Vanilla Tincture 80 % 10 Apple Oliffac 27 Peonile .1 Alcool C - 8 62 Acetate De Benzila 27 Linalyl Acetate 5 Lilial 4 Rosyrane Super 41 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Aldehyde C - 14 4 Florhydral 1 Delta Damascone 6 Vanillin Ethyl 3 Neroli Oliffac 1 Peomosa .2 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 1 Apritone .1 Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Cetonal V 1 Sandalore 8 Mandarin Oil Italian Distilled 8 Citronellol 3 Stemone 21 Liral 5 Methyl Phenyl Carbinol 5 Eugenol .1 Ionone 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 Tangerine Oil California 17 Jasmin Artificial Base 6 Iso Eugenol Tech - Givaudan 318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 83 Geraniol 1 Ghost Lisly 11 Aubepine 13 DMBC - Acetate 9 Rose Substitute 3 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 5 Spirogalbanone 12 Methyl Ionone Gamma

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 112

Floral Fruity # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 5 Galbanum Resinoid 1 Benzophenone 12 Methyl Ionone Gamma 38 Traseolide 700 Base 37 Verdox 9 Vanillin .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 7 Iso E Super 14 Geranyl Acetate Pure 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 18 Linalool 4 Caraway Oil - Ukraine 22 Hexyl Salicylate 23 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Jasmin Egyptian AbsoluteAbs. 8 Javanol .1 Rose Oxide L 1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Lily Aldehyde 27 Peonile 9 Neroline 62 Hedione 10 Apple Oliffac 5 Lioral .1 Alcool C - 8 41 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 27 Linalyl Acetate 4 Florhydral 4 Rosyrane Super 6 Vanillinethyl 8 Peach Pure 1 Florymoss 1 Delta Damascone 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 3 Neroli Artessence .1 Cinnamic Aldehyde .2 Massada 1 Javanol 1 Apritone 8 Citronellol 4 Cetonal V 21 Liral 8 Mandarin Oil Italian Distilled 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 3 Stemone 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 5 Methyl Phenyl Carbinol 17 Jasmin Artificial Base .1 Ionone 6 Iso - Eugenol 7 Tangerine - North Korea 318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 83 Geraniol 1 Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan 1,000 11 Hawthorn 13 DMBC - Acetate 9 Rose Substitute 3 Styrallyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 113 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY

Top Melon 17 %

Green Notes .5 %, Violet - Trace, Apple 5 % Floral Fruity

Bergamot 5 %, Fruity, Strawberry 3 %, Peach 2 %

Middle Jasmin 7 %

Benzyl Butyrate 1.5 % Muguet 4 %, Rose 8 % - Fruity, Violet 3 % Floral Ethyl Aceto Acetate 1 % Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 % Lily 2 %, Carnation 1 %

Base Veltol - Trace

Raspberry - Trace, Sandalwood 2 %, Moss - Trace Mossy

Musk 2 %, Amber - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 114

Floral Fruity # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Veltol 24 Linalool 11 Benzyl Alcohol 3 Benzladehyde 3 Heliotropine 53 Geraniol 60 24 Sandalwood Extender 3 Acetyl Eugenol 31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Peach Blossom FM - 1042 6 Amber Substitute .1 Metil Tuberato 5 Raspberry Ketone 103 Citroflex # 2 3 Berryflor 3 Methyl Amyl Ketone 12 Benzyle Butyrate .1 Rosacene 4 Muskylein 4 Geranyl Acetate 33 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido .1 Neofolione 21 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Ghost Lily Accord - IFF 1 Ambrox DL Coeur 33 Verdox 9 Ethyl Aceto Acetate 4 Neryl Acetate 5 Musk Ambrette Substitute .5 Jamaica Oil 74 Benzyl Acetate 9 Nectaryl 37 Fructone 33 Linalyl Acetate 3 Vetamber ( Kephalis ) 5 Strawberry Aroma Base 6 Methyl Iso Eugenol 4 Myraldyl Acetate 1 Rosone 1 Jasmone 14 Methyl Ionone Gamma 1 Bourgenal 12 Serenolide 1 Iritone 8 Citronellol 3 Santalyl Acetate 6 Methyl Para Cresole 1 Iso Amyl Geranate 3 Javanol .1 Ribes Nigrum 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 277 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 9 Iraldeine Gamma 1,000 38 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 7 Lilie 3 Galbanodor CG 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF 9 Methyl Jasmonate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 115 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fruity # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 1 Mousse De Chenne .3 DMBC - Acetate .1 Veltol 159 Fructone 45 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Galbanum Art Essence 19 Galaxolide 50 48 Geraniol 60 22 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 22 Linalool 28 Sandalwood Extender .1 Nonadienal .1 Civet Powder # 1b 1 Osmanthus Fleuriff 11 Benzyl Butyrate 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Cedrafix 3 Cyrohexylethylacetate 15 Benzyl Acetate 22 Strawberry pure 1 Amberwood 1 Kir Base # 9741 9 Hidroxicitronelal .1 Alcohol C - 8 63 Acetate De Benzila 3 Neryl Acetate 4 p - Cresyl Acetate 1 cis - Rose Oxide .1 Rosalva 9 Di Ethyl Malonate 3 Oxanone 28 Linalyl Acetate 6 Lilie 1 Massada 12 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Jasmorange 3 Woodynol I 1 Lolitol 27 Aldeido Hexil Cinamico .1 Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate 1 Rose Crystals 1 Santalyl Acetate 16 Laurine Extra 3 Phenafleur .1 Alpha Damascone 1 Jasilyn 23 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 274 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 6 Citronellol 1,000 22 Jasmin Province Base 7 Water Melon Ketone ( Aquamor ) 4 Hysimal 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 6 Ionone For Soap 3 Raspberry Leaves - IFF 33 Verdox

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 116

Floral Fruity # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Amber Base 6 DMBC - Acetate .1 Veltol .1 Folione 11 Benzyl Alcohol FR 9 Citroflex # 2 24 Galaxolide .1 Methyl Cinnimate 38 Phthalate D-Ethyle 22 Linalool synthetique 1 Heliotropine 28 Verdox 1 Rasberry Ketone 111 Melon Oliffac 7 Vanillin 7 Peach pure - Givaudan 11 Benzyle Butyrate .2 Aldehyde C - 8 .1 Vetimoss 1 Jasmonyl Acetate 24 Benzysalicylate 12 Melonyl 86471 VMF 29 Ionone Intermediate Base 6 Berryflor 9 Eugenol 4 Aquamor 11 Fructone 33 Linalyl Acetate 3 Eugenol 3 Geranyl Acetate 60 % FCC 58 MDJ 5 Di Ethyl Malonate 31 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Stemone 8 Lilial 13 Aldehyde C - 16 3 Jasmin Artificial Base 1 Mugone S 207M 29 Osyrol .2 3 - Nonen - 2 - ONE 8 Jasphene 1 Perryfix 11 Citronellol 4 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 7 Laurine 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF 64 Geraniol 3 Tangerine 9 Lyral 6 Bergamot Augaflor 4 282 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 1 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000 8 Terpineol Prime 1 Phenoxanol 3 Styrallyl Acetate .1 Tuberose Oliffac 4 Hidroxicitronelal 23 Peach Aroma Base

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 117 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY

Top Strawberry 4 %

Blueberry 6 %, Lemon 2 %, Orange 5 % Fruity

Peach 2 %, Grape 3 %, Pineapple 1 %, Cherry 1 %

Middle Violet 7 %

Ethyl Butyrate .5 % Rose 6 % - Sweet, Hawthorn 1 %, Carnation 1 % Floral Amyl Acetate .5 % Benzyl Butyrate .5 % Jasmin 4 %, Cinnamic Alcohol 2.5 %

Base Vanilla 2 %

Veltol .5 %, Raspberry .5 %, Sandalwood .5 % Sweet

Musk .5 % Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 118

Floral Fruity # 5a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Veltol 4 Cassifix 1 Amberlyn 2 Rasberry Leaves - IFF 11 Alcool Benzila 13 Methyl Anthranilate 13 Vanisal .1 Alcohol C - 8 2 Acetate Iso Eugenol 9 Linalol Natural 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Cis - Jasmone 24 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 14 Persicol SA 6 Cremophor - Basf 7 Bergamot Oil Substitute 21 Alcool Cinamico 1 Liffarome 36 Blueberry Treatarome Base 5 Geranyl Acetate 5 Amyl Acetate 1 Vertosine 4 Benzyl Butyrate 3 Rose Acetate 3 Oxanone 29 Strawberry Aldehyde 9 Muscone 6 Nerol 10 alpha - Ionone 8 Peach Blossom FM - 1042 8 Ethyl Vanillin 22 Linalyl Acetate 53 Claigeon 11 Aurantiol 55 Iraldein Standard Substitute 48 Orange CP Brazil 17 Eugenol 2 Neryl Acetate 4 Citronellol Extra .3 Aldehyde C - 10 1 Anisyl Alcohol .1 Cherry Extract 12 Ethyl Butyrate 1 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 53 Geraniol 1 Jasmone 5 Metil Benzoato 19 Anisic Aldehyde 307 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 9 Alpha Ionone 80 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Methyl Phenyl Carbinol 6 4 - (P - Acetoxy phenyl ) 2 - Butanone 3 3 - Octen - 2 - One 9 Benzaldehyde .1 Folione 32 Blueberry Base 13 Lemon Oil

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 119 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fruity # 5b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

10 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 4 Geranyl Acetate 4 Heliotropine 17 Methyl Anthranilate 12 Vanisal 1 Fraistone 33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Methyl Jasmonate 5 Veltol 6 Nerol 1 Anisyl Alcohol 6 Strawberry Pure 38 Blueberry Base 1 Bigarade Oxide 8 Benzaldehyde 1 Geranyl Acetate 24 Benzyl Slaicylate - IFF .1 Apricot Essence 5 Raspberry Ketone 27 Linalyl Acetate 10 Eugenol .3 Muskylein 9 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Neryl Acetate 22 Cinnamique Alcool 22 Lemon C.P. & Distilled 30 Blueberry Treatarome Base 13 Aurantiol Pure 5 Ethyl Butyrate 28 Aldehyde C - 16 19 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme .1 Ivor Corps 6 Citronellol 96 FCC .1 Folione 5 Methoxymelonal 1 Cassia Oliffac 3 Benzophenone 46 Orange Sweet Israel 67 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Galbanodor 7 Amyl Acetate 1 Meranol 8 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Wardia 45 Geraniol 1 Irival 4 Hawthorn Base 329 Di Propileno Glico .1 Civet Powder # 1A 1,000 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 6 Benzyl Butyrate 1 Geranyl Iso Valerate 43 Hedione 3 Cremaphor Basf 12 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 9 Linalol 33 Persicol SA 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF .1 Cherry Extract 1 Vanilys

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 120

Floral Fruity # 5c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Balsam Peru Oil 21 Peach Aldehyde 23 Benzylsalicylate 4 Raspberry Leaves - IFF 1 Veltol 9 Aurantiol pure 10 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 13 Bergamot Oil Substitute 4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 5 Aldeido C - 16 33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Benzaldehyde 9 Benzyl Butyrate 51 Orange Blood Teracco 42 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 6 Linalool Pure 99.5 % 8 Cremophor 1 Anisylalcohol 21 Alcool Cinamico 17 Lemon Oil, Brazil ( Tahiti Type ) 65 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Nerol Coeur 3 Amyl Salicylate .1 Aldehyde C - 10 73 Blueberry Base .1 Methyl Cinnimate 3 Di Hydro Iso Jasmone 4 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 11 Iso Eugenol Replacement 11 Linalyl Acetate natural 1 Berryflor 13 Methyl Anthranilate 1 Cetylia Base B 1 Neryl Acetate - IFF ( Ventos ) 12 Ionone Alpha 60 .4 Perryfix 9 Citronellol 2 Iso Nonyl Acetate 12 Hawthorn 1 Jasmonyl Acetate 27 Blueberry Treatarome Base .3 Iso - Eugenol 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1 Geranyl Iso Valerate 53 Geraniol 4 Mandarinal 9 Ethyl Butyrate 2 Nerol 4 Vanillin 330 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Lilial 1,000 6 Geranyl Acetate 9 Methoxy Melonal 27 Hercolin - D 1 OJ Carbinyl STV .1 Alcool C - 9 9 Oxanone 3 Ethyl Vanisal

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 121 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Rose Fragrance Chemicals

Adoxal Sweet floral waxy rosy referred to as ozone like. Alcohol C - 8 Powerful fresh, orange rose like waxy and sweet odor. Alcohol C - 9 Powerful oily floral fresh petal like, dilution - rosy. Alcohol C - 11 Lenic Fresh rather fatty odor, citrusy waxy rosy petal like note. Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic Powerful waxy rosy citrusy odor. Alpha Damascone Intensely fruity reminiscent of plums and roses.

Benzophenone Powdery geranium rose like. Beta Damascone Fruity apple rose like odor. Bois De Rose Essence Slightly rose like with a sweet undertone. Bois De Rose Oil Floral odor reminiscent of rose orange mignoette. Bois De Rose Syn AB2034 Excellent substitute for bois de rose oil. Bois De Rose Terpeneless Oil Floral and reminiscent of rose orange and mignonette.

Citronellol BRI Fresh, clean floral rosy odor. Citronellol Oil Coeur Fresh, rosy, floral rosy. Citronellol Oil Extra Purer grade, fresher rosy. Citronellol 700 Clean fresh rose, citronellol 70%, Geraniol 7%, Nerol 18%, D M Octanol 5%. Citronellol 700 98TA Clean, fresh, rose. Citronellol 750 Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 73%. Citronellol 80 Intermediate Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 83.5%. Citronellol 850 Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 86%. Citronellol 850 Clean fresh rose, citronellol 86%, geraniol & nerol 12%. Citronellol 950 Clean rose like, citronellol 95%, geraniol and nerol 4 %. Citronellol Last Fraction Rosy, not as sweet as a typical fresh floral rose. Citronellyl Acetate Fresh, rosy, fruity odor reminiscent of geranium oil. Citronellyl Acetate A Sweet fruity geranium rose citronellyl acetate 85%, neryl acetate 5%. Citronellyl Acetate BRI Fresh, rosy, fruity odor. Citronellyl Acetate Pure Sweet, fruity rose like, citronellyl acetate 95%, neryl acetate 5%. Citronellyl Anthranilate Rosy, fruity odor, extremely long lasting. Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Fresh almost citrusy rosy, intensely fruity and sweet odor. Citronellyl N Butyrate Intensely fruity, sweet and somewhat rosy leafy, petal like. Citronellyl Formate Pw leafy green fruity rosy fresh and light reminiscent of geranium rose. Citronellyl Formate Natural Sweet citrus floral honey.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 122

Citronellyl Lactone D Tenacious, spicy, rose absolute character. Citronellyl Methyl Acetal A little known citrus note very effective natural note to lemon. Citronellyl Nitrile A green rose like scent almost reminiscent of citralva. Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet herbaceous rosy, heavy and reminiscent of rose petals. Citronellyl Propionate Fresh fruity, sweet rosy odor more berry fruity odor. Citronellyl Tiglate Leafy, rosy geranium note useful in geranium, rose petal bases. Citronellyl Valerate Rosy, herbaceous honey like aroma.

Damas Rose FM1248 Is very damascone rose directed. Damascenia Rich sweet deep floral rose. Damascenia Rosa Abs. Rich warm spicy floral and very deep rose odor, honey tones. Damascenia Rosa Concrete Extremely rich deep and sweet floral truly reminiscent pink rose. Damascenia 185 SA Very powerful warm fresh top note of rose otto. Damascenone A powerful floral fruity note, very natural rose plum like. Damascone Beta Powerful, fruity floral note reminiscent of blackcurrant, plum, rose, dil. Delta Damascone A hybrid floral rose compound. Di Butyl Sulfide Green, violet leaf, rose geranium character. Di Hydro Carvyl Acetate Floral with rose, and cuminsed background, useful in floral accords. Di Methyl Octanol Waxy dry rosy odor. Di Phenyl Oxide Harsh floral green, metallic geranium rose type. Dorina S A Floral rose specialty base extremely fresh and floral.

Ethyl Ortho Methoxy Benzoate Ylang tuberose, floral complex with raspberry and phenolic nuiance. Farnesyl Acetate Faint, green floral rosy odor use in rose apple and herbal accords. Florane Powerful, green crrushed petals rose like. Florex A deep not sweet floral rose fragrance.

Geraniofix AB751 Sweet green geranium rose, best used in 10% dilution. Geraniol Mild, and sweet floral rose. Geraniol Coeur Floral, rose oily and green. Geraniol Extra Sweet floral rose coeur grade. Geraniol For Soap AB2015 Economical sweet rose base in lieu of geraniol last several days. Geraniol 5020 Blend of geraniol 52%, nerol 25%, citronellol 20%. Geraniol 60 Sweet floral rose. Geraniol 600 Fresh rose petal, geraniol 60%, nerol 25%. Geraniol 7030 Sweet fresh rose, geraniol 71%, nerol 19%. Geraniol 8020 Sweet fresh rose with a citrus note, geraniol 81%, nerol 18%. Geraniol 90 Mild and sweet floral rose. Geraniol 980 Dry, rose petal, geraniol 97%. Geraniol NC Floral, spicy note reminiscent of rose & palmarosa with carnation tone. Geraniol N Supra Typical rosy mild, reminiscent of palmarosa oil Geraniol RG Rose alcohols mix with citrus, verbana notes of nerol, dewy. Geraniol WT Floral rose note with fresh verbena nuances.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 123 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Geraniol X Palmarosa Oil Sweet and floral rose like. Geranium Absolute Intense and powerful somewhat leafy earthy but soft pleasant. Geranium Algerian Lighter more rosy leafy. Geranium Augaflor 9 A powerful rose like odour of Bourbon with a high degree of tenacity. Geranium Bourbon Green leafy rosy strong. Geranium Bourbon Oliffac An economical simulation of the natural oil for fine fragrances. Geranium Bourbon Super A low priced apporach to geranium oil. Geranium Chinese Natural source is China with a fine herbaceous rose like fragrance. Geranium Concrete A delightful earthy herbaceous somewhat rosy foilage green like odor. Geranium Egyptian Floral geranium rose blended from different batches. Geranium Moroccan Sweet and powerful, rosy leafy slightly herbaceous odor. Geranium Oil Has a full leaf like rose odor. Geranium Oil Syn ABQ 5629 Excellent substitute, interesting fruity and rosy nuances. Geranium 222 Powerful green, leafy rosy with a fruiy minty undertone, rich. Geranodyle Is a complex mixture with a fresh geranium odour. Geranyl Acetate Sweet fruity floral rosy. Geranyl Acetate Extra The finest sweet fruity floral rosy material available at low cost. Geranyl Acetate Pure Sweet, fruity and rose, geranyl acetate 98%. Geranyl Acetone Fresh floral light, but rather penetrating sweet rosy light green. Geranyl Anthranilate Heavy sweet floral rose. Geranyl Benzoate Faint rosy, very tenacious mildly floral. Geranyl N Butyrate Sweet rather heavy fruity rosy odor. Geranyl Caproate Fruity geranium rose like. Geranyl Formate Fresh somewhat dry green leafy rosy odor. Geranyl Iso Butyrate Sweeter than n butyrate. Geranyl Phenyl Acetate Soft floral honey rose like. Geranyl Propionate Sweet fruity rose warm. Geranyl Tiglate Quite pleasant sweet herbaceous geranium like fragrance.

Iso Amyl Geranate Rosy, lemon honey character. Iso Butyl Phenyl Acetate Powerful leafy rosy musky fragrance. Iso Damascone A nice sweet slightly fruity green rose complex. Iso Rose An isomeric rose floral compound.

Lorena Has a fresh odor of rose that recalls tang of the sea.

Meranol Dry rose petal. Methyl Nonyl Ketone Fruity rosy orange like. Methyl Tuberate Floral most likely tuberose, rose like material not sweet.

Neo Rose Otto A very high quality rose otto replacement at a lower cost. Nerol Sweet rosy refreshing wet seashore like. Nerol A Sweet rosy refreshing. Nerol BG A good general purpose rose verbena quality with a warm spicy.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 124

Nerol Coeur Moderately priced lemon verbena note dominating the rosy. Nerol 800 Sweet fresh citrusy rose. Nerol 850 Sweet citrusy, rose and fresh. Nerol G A powerful refreshing, clean lemon rose odor. Nerol 900 Sweet floral rose fresh citrus like. Nerol O M Earthy, musty, palmarosa notes covering the verbena character. Nerol Petals Sweet rosy leafy refreshing. Nerol Regular A green note blends with the rose verbena tones in this grade. Nerol Special A fresh sea shore like floral rose. Neryl Acetate Very sweet fruity, floral odor of raspberry rose. Neryl Butyrate Green waxy oily and fatty. Neryl Formate Rosy, herbaceous green character. Neryl Geranyl Acetate Citrus sweet floral. Neryl Iso Butyrate Rosy, berry character. Neryl Iso Valerate Rich, clary sage of bergamot odor in oriental, oakmoss. Neryl Propionate Fruity, jam like odor used in citrus and floral fragrances.

Octanol 2 A floral rosy fresh odor. Octanol Nitrile 10 B - 2216 A rosy floral odor.

Palmarosa Oil Sweet floral rosy odor. Palmarosa Oil Brazil Palmarosa has a sweet, floral, rosy scent. Palmarosa Oil Guatemala A pale yellow or olive colored liquid with a sweet floral rosy odor. Palmarosa India Palmarosa oil has a sweet floral with a hint of rose. Patinol AB286 Is more geranium rosy in character then geranofix. Peomosa Floral, rose mimosa like with a special light dry out. Peonile With its geranium-rosy character provides interesting floral effects. Phenirat Sweet, fruity, floral like rose somewhat honey. Phenoxanal Fresh floral rose. Phenoxy Ethanol Mild rosy, but also metallic. Phenoxy Ethyl Alcohol Mild honey rose odor. Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Sweet fruity rosy floral. Phenyl Ethyl Acetal Warm, green leafy also rosy balsamic odor. Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor. Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Mild and warm rose honey like odor. Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Extra Fine, smooth, more powerful quality lasts a few days. Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate Very faint floral balsamic odor reminiscent of dry rose petals. Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate Very faint and sweet pleasant balsamic odor. Phenyl Ethyl Formate Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor. Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Fresh fruity tea rose type. Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Heavy and very sweet floral balsamic odor, musky honey like. Phenyl Ethyl Pivalate Floral possibly faintly rosy pratically no odor. Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity. Pivane 22 A sweet rosy floral fragrance.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 125 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Pivarose Pleasant, tea rose. Polarose Powerful fatty oily waxy rosy odor.

Racinia A dry floral rose complex. Rhodinol Coeur Geranium rose. Rhodinol X Citronella Naturally sweet rosy floral. Rhodinol X Geranium Oil Floral, rose sweet waxy and powdery. Rhodinyl Acetate Sweet, light refreshing rose muguet, green leafy notes. Rhodinyl N Butyrate Intensely sweet mellow fruity deep rosy. Rhodinyl Formate Fresh leafy green delicate rosy. Rhodinyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet, very deep soft honey like rose. Rhodinyl Propionate Rich and sweet fruity floral rose geranium type. Rhodinyl Salicylate Very weak sweet rosy powdery balsamic odor. Rhodinyl Valerate Heavy fruity, slight earthy green, but also sweet odor. Rosacene A nice light delicate floral rose compound not overly sweet. Rosalva Powerful fatty oily, waxy rose odor. Rosamusk Unusual combination of rose with musky modifications. Rose Abs. Morocco Extremely fresh and sweet floral rose odor. Rose Abs. Oliffac An inexpensive substitute of natural absolutes from rose petals. Rose Abs. Turkey A tenacious diffusive sweet floral, truly captures fresh flower. Rose AB380D Rose absolute, slightly herbal animalic tones. Rose Acetate Mild floral rosy. Rosania FM1018 Diffusive natural green geranium rose. Roseate Delicate moist rose petal tone with gentle power. Rose Bulgare Oil Intensely rose like, and sweet. Rose Concrete Morocco Has a warm deep floral, slight woody sweet with honey like notes odor. Rose Crystals Mild, at first very weak green rosy balsamic odor. Rose De Mai Rich, sweet, deep rosy very tenacious odor with honey notes. Rose De Mai Abs. Rich and sweet deep rosy tenacious odor. Rose De Mai Abs. French Has a rich sweet, deep rosy very tenacious odor. Rose Essence 193 A very strong, but yet sweet floral rosy fresh odor. Rose Essence Bulgare A very diffusive vivacious rose odor, slightly sweet and floral. Rose Geranium Augaflor 19 A wonderfully rich, warm rosey odour reminiscent of a summer day. Rose Givco 217 Warm rosy resembling natural Turkish oil quite delightful. Roseessence 17.600B Full, rich, strong as natural rose otto bulgarian. Rose Moroccan Abs. Deep sweet, rich and tenacious floral rose odor. Rose Moroccan Oil Fragrant rose and characteristic of the flower. Rose Nitrile A rich rose geranium woody note with excellent strength. Rose Oil Moroccan Deep sweet, rich and tenacious floral rose. Rose Oil Moroccan Select The finest moroccan rose fragrance at an attractive cost. Rose Oil Otto Warm deep floral slightly spicy odor reminiscent of red roses. Rose Oil Templar A typical sweet rose odor whose source is rooted in English lore. Rose Oil Turkey Diffusive strong vibrant floral rose scent reminiscent of the rose. Rose Oil Turkey Commercial An extremely floral typical rose odor, not intense or over powering.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 126

Rose Oil Turkish Sweet floral rose. Rose Orient Intensely rose like, mysterious diffusive, rounded and nice. Rose Otto Augaflor A deep, warm, rich unmistakable rose odor. Rose Otto Syn. Pour Savon A low cost simulation of rose otto for general purposes. Rose Otto Turque Oil Sweet, intense floral rose. Rose Oxide D Gives fresh herbal rose effects and rosy green nuances. Rose Oxide Inactive A compound with an intensive note of roses. Rose Oxide L Constituent of bulgarian attar of roses. Rose Oxide R Reminiscent of rose geranium. Rose Oxyde Green, very diffusive fresh note which resembles geranium oil. Rose Oxyde Gauche Similar although sweeter, fresher and more diffusive. Rosetal A Diffusive rose absolute type odor for use in floral based fragrances. Rose Tenace Diffusive long lasting rose odor suggests otto of rose. Rose Turkey Absolute Deep sweet rich rosy floral odor, souce Turkey. Rose Turque Essence Fragrant rose characteristic.

Top Rose ABQ5644 The top note of bulgarian rose oil lasts a few weeks. Trans De Cadro Beta Naphyl Floral rosy. Trans 4 Decenal # 382 Floral rosy. Tuberanthia SA Tuberose. Tuberose Abs. A heavy sweet almost nauseating floral odor of tuberose. Tubereuse 181 A reconstitution of tuberose absolute, rich warm, sensual. Tuberose Oliffac Sweet intense floral character of tuberose. Tuberose Pomenade A heavy sweet almost overpowering tuberose odor.

Wardia A classic reproduction of rose de mai absolute, powerful.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 127 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Violet Fragrance Chemicals

Alpha Ionone Soft warm, orris violet like, sweet and extremely diffusive. Alpha Ionone 60 Mild floral violet odor. Alpha Ionone White Coeur Floral violet like.

Beta Ionone Warm woody dry odor with a fruity undertone Beta Ionone R Dry powdery, floral, woody, orris. Bicyclohexanone P Cyclamen floral note with orris, woody, ozone nuances, fresh.

Cetonal Is an elegant ingredient used in woody, orris accords as well as with leather, tobacco and animal notes where it acts as an excellent blending agent and adds to the harmony of a fragrance. Cetone Alpha Tenacious floral violet compound. Cetone V Has many facets to its character and thus has many uses. It blends well with ionones, citrus notes, lavender, fruity and oriental accords where it adds body and excellent diffusion.

Folione Used in traces, produces violet-leaf and cucumber notes. It blends extremely well with products in the orris family of ionones.

Ionantheme 100 % Is used largely in floral, violet bouquets, but also in fruit accords to provide volume and substantivity. Is fruitier and less woody than either Irisone Alpha or Irisone pure. Ionol Alpha Berry, sweet ionone like with a woody floral powdery note. Ionol Beta Sweet, woody berry powdery, floral and fruity. Ionone Warm, balsamic, violet floral. Ionone Alpha Floral, violet, woody fruity. Ionone Alpha Extra Floral violet. Ionone Alpha Beta Regular Warm, woody more violet, alpha ionone 60%, beta ionone 30%. Ionone Alpha Methyl C Floral violet. Ionone Alpha Methyl Naphyl A very faint slightly sweet floral violet type odor. Ionone Alpha Refined Fruity, woody violet, fresher, alpha Ionone 81%, beta ionone 9%. Ionone Alpha Regular Warm, woody violet, alpha ionone 70%, beta ionone 30%. Ionone Alpha White Coeur Floral violet. Ionone Beta Pure More fruity, and woody like than alpha.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 128

Ionone 100 % Violet odor with a suggestion of cedarwood and orris. Iraldein Delta Floral violet as well as with dry powdery iris nuances. Iraldein Gamma Sweetly floral like violet slightly fruity like fig and raspberry. Iraldein 100% Pleasant floral like violet as well as somewhat woody. Iralia A very pure orris or violet note of powdery woody character. Iris Aldehyde Extremely powerful, and diffusive orisy odor. Iris Beurre Essence Orris violet. Iris Beurre Oil Orris violet. Iris Concrete Woody oily violet like odor. Iris Concrete 8 % Irone Orris, violet leaf like green odor. Iris Concrete 11 % Irone Orris, violet leaf like green odor. Iris Concrete 199 KSA Woody fatty oily but distinctly violet floral. Iris Givco 204/2 This is a floral base specifically designed to match the scent of orris absolute for use in functional applications. This reconstitution reflects the different facets of natural orris absolute: gourmand, floral, woody and powdery. Iris Givco 204/2 acts as a modifier of Isoraldeine 70 and Ionone Beta, boosting and imparting sparkling and vibrant effects to them. It also blends beautifully with floral-green accords and enriches woody/chypre themes. This base does not lead to discolouration. Cost-effective, natural-smelling and stable replace-ment for orris absolute Iris Noir Abs. Violet floral orris like. Irisodor Violet floral. Irisone Alpha Widely used in perfume compositions of almost all types. The use of the fragrances in rose bases is very common. It is used in woody, floral, balsamic, piney or citrus-like fragrances. Irisone Pure Widely used in perfumes designed for functional products. Its powerful, rich, floral-violet character is easy to blend with many floral, woody, aldehydic, fruity and chypre accords. Iris 199 D Wax like mass of woody, but distinctly violet odor. Iris 199/K SA A reconstitution of iris concrete. Iris 199 SA A reconstitution of iris absolute. Iris Resin Deep sweet slightly woody tobacco like. Iris Resinoid Oily woody violet like. Iritone A velvety floral note in the violet ionone family. Irival Concentrated orris note. Irone Alpha Refined Soft warm orris violet like sweet and diffusive. Iso Butyl Benzoate Weak fresh orisy odor.

Linalool Terpenes Floral woody iris, quite harsh odor not pleasant.

Mahagonate Woody spicy resembling patchouli, vetiver and sandalwood iris. Merion Highly diffusive floral, oriental woody complex with violet note. Methyl Ionone Warm, woody floral violet lasts several days. Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra Orris violet floral.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 129 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra Floral, violet, isomeric mixture. Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso Precious wood tobacco, creamy violet. Methyl Ionone Alpha 60 Floral, violet, isomeric mixture. M I A Iso Super FM1110 A sophisticated product in which the violet florality is enhanced. Methyl Ionone Beta Woody warm odor. Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur Purer grade more woody, and warm. Methyl Ionone Extra Mild floral odor of violets. Methyl Ionone Extra 500 Floral, woody, violet. Methyl Ionone Gamma A A floral violet woody isomeric mixture. Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur Woody, floral violet. Methyl Ionone Gamma Extra Mild floral odor of violets. Methyl Ionone Gamma Pure Woody, floral violet, dry. Methyl Ionone Gamma Replacer Familiar woody floral complex, tobacco like undertone. Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme Floral violet woody fruity complex. Methyl Ionone Regular Mild floral odor of violets. Methyl Ionone Regular 450 Violet, woody. Methyl Ionone Residue Harsh floral violet slightly woody. Methyl Ionone Tails A harsh woody floral violet odor, reminiscent of ionone beta. Methyl Ionone Terpenes Harsh woody solvent masking odor. Methyl Octine Carbonate Green violet leaf like. Methyl Octine Carbonate Sub. An unrestricted and safe replacement. Methyl Octyne Carbonate Widely used in floral notes. It produces the powerful yet subtle note of violet leaves with a fruity-vegetable cucumber undertone.

Neofolione Blends very well with most floral notes, especially violet, where it is particularly useful in replacing Folione. It imparts freshness and diffusion and has good stability. Nonadienal Blends well in green top note accords. Used as a modifier it imparts a natural violet leaf aspect. 2,6 Nonadien 1 OL Cucumber or violet flower odor. 2, 6, Nonadienal # 332 Intense powerful vegetable green, reminiscent of violet leaves. 2, 6 Nonad 1 al Diethyl Acetal Smooth floral violet, melon odor. Nonadienol A constituent of violet leaves as well as of cucumber. Is effective in a wide range of applications in adding a natural melon-cucumber note. It is olfactively similar to Nonadienal, but is fruitier and less leafy.

Octyl Formate Powerful and relatively diffusive fruity green orris. Orriniff 25 % IPM Floral, violet, orris leather. Orris Abs. A floral green violet like odor. Orris Augaflor 13 This beautiful orris blend has all of the orris characteristics, warm in the top note, cascading into a sea of violet, thus extending the Perfumer's art to include this delicate fragrance. Orris Concrete Floral violet.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 130

Orris Concrete Natural Oily violet leaf like. Orris Conc. Natural Essence Violet floral. Orris Extract Waxy sweet floral violet with berry woody nuances. Orris Oil Floral violet. Orris Resin Abs. Floral violet. Orris Resinoid A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor.

Parmavert Powerful floral green, sweet and violet leaf like. Pseudo M I Terpenes A harsh floral violet like odor.

Raldeine A GV A special quality of methyl ionone containing larger amounts of the n-alpha greater 50 %, and n-beta typically 15 %. The result is a woodier, fruitier olfactive character. Rhuboflor Powerful green note, fruity floral and herbal, undertone orris.

Violet A favorite in Sufi healing since a hadith of the Prophet states that "the excellence of the extract is above all others extracts as the excellence of me is above all of the rest of creation". A shy yet deep and early scent for quiet beauties. Violet Abs. French Strong herbaceous floral violet. Violet Abs. Rue Herbaceous floral violet, not as sweet as the french oil. Violet Abs. Selection Strong floral violet odor. Violet Augaflor 27 A fresh, green, violet odour. Long lasting, with a wonderful deep green odour. Violet Colorless 54.5219 Herbaceous floral odor of the violet. Violet Concrete Characteristic of fresh violet leaves with a possible source in Egypt. Violet Leaf Absolute Oily green cucumber leafy fresh sweet floral odor quite strong. Violet Leaf Abs. N.Y. 11149 Green floral violet, very subtle slightly sweet. Violet Leaves Abs. Powerful green leaf odor delicately floral note reminiscent violet. Violet Leaves Abs. Green, melon floral, fresh waxy and leafy. Violet Leaf Abs. Slightly violet, not strong or sweet. Violiff Floral, violet, banana.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 131 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Jasmin Fragrance Chemicals

Benzyl Acetate Strong sweet fresh fruity floral odor of many types of flowers. Benzyl Acetate Coeur A richer, softer jasmin. Benzyl Acetate FFC Floral, jasmine Benzyl Propionate Fruity sweet, floral undertone type jasmin.

Claigeon Jasmin-like. Cepionate Powdery long lasting, jasmin. Cis-Jasmon Diffusive, fruity jasmin. Cis-2-Pentenol Powerful, jasmin, like. CIS Jasmone Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral.

Delphone Powerful, diffusive and complex floral aromatic and fruity, jasmin. Di Hydro Iso Jasmone Lactonic, floral, jasmine. Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate Fruity odor floral jasmin. Di Hydro Jasmone Fruity sweet floral woody with a powdery nuance. Di Jasmone A full, deep jasmin type odor, intensely floral. D M B C - Acetate Fresh powerful fruity floral odor of jasmin, lily.

2-Heptyl Cyclopentanone Floral, herbal, jasmin-like. 2-n-Hexyl Cyclopentanone Green floral, jasmin-like.

Iso Jasmone Isomeric floral jasmin mixture. Iso Jasmone Pure Powerful, latonic, celery - jasmin.

Jasmacylene Low cost, fresh diffusive green, woody anise, herby, - jasmin. Jasmal Powerful oily herbaceous warm jasmin odor. Jasmaprunate Fruity like apple jasmin dry slightly green like wild grapes. Jasmatone Diffusive, warm spicy celery, with a hint of frutiness, - jasmin. Jasmelia A pungent jasmin, jasmone odor with a hint of parsley. Jasmin # 187 A sweet floral fruity jasmin floral complex. Jasmin AB13 Economical but tenacious base with a fruity top note. Jasmin AB 410 Long lasting, absolute note of floral jasmin. Jasmin Abs. Floral jasmin not overly sweet like cananga oil. Jasmin Abs. Concrete Syn A pleasant fruity sweet floral jasmin odor.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 132

Jasmin Abs. Italian Max. The purest heart of the floral jasmin. Jasmin Abs. Oliffac An economical approach of the precious jasmin flower. Jasmin Chassis Abs. Resembles orange flower absolute, warm sweet and heavy. Jasmin Concrete With a varying source odor is waxy, fatty sweet jasmin like. Jasmin Egyptian An extremely fine floral jasmin fragrance. Jasmin Egyptian C2612 Has fine jasmin top note quite diffusive. Jasmin Etoile Givco 144 Spicy warm floral. Jasmin Lactone Powerful cream, jasmine, peach coconut note. Jasmin Petals Abs. Egypt A sweet strong jasmin green floral petal like odor. Jasmin 74D A reconstitution of jasmin absolute. Jasmine The sweetest and most celebrated flower of North Africa. Jasmolactone Sweet fruity floral jasmin. Jasmolactone CNC Oily, fruity floral petal like suggestive of many floral absolutes. Jasmo Lactone XC Jasmin absolute odor with a buttery note. Jasmoneige Natural jasmin. Jasmonol Floral waxy odor works well in tuberose, honeysuckle and jasmin. Jasmonyl Intensely sweet floral jasmin. Jasmonyl Acetate Jasmin somewhat pear like odor. Jasmophyll Sweet floral fruity like jasmin slight green herbal woody nuance. Jasmorange Fruity balsamic, green floral, aldehydic. Jasmopyrane Rich, waxy, sweet floral jasmin complex. Jasmopyrane Forte More tenacious floral jasmin, and has a slight mushroomy note. Jessemal Herbaceous floral jasmin.

Lactone CIS Jasmone # 114 Soft floral odor of jasmin. Lactone of CIS Jasmone # 411 A floral waxy, jasmine absolute odor. Used in jasmine fragrances.

Methyl Jasmonate The floral heart of jasmin, petal soft and tenacious, elegant. Methyl Jasmonate Extra More powerful and floral than standard material extremely diffusive.

Zeppin Diffusive, sweet, noble jasmin.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 133 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floral Fresh

FLORAL FRESH

Top Bergamot 8 % - Fruity Floral Fruity

Orange 4 %, Peach 1 %, Jasmin .5 %

Middle Rose 22 % Warm

Jasmin 10 %, Violet 5 %, Muguet 4 % Floral Green Ivy Givco 2 % Geranium 1 % Lilac 4 %, Carnation 4 %

Base Amber .5 %

Musk .5 %, Sandal 1 % Amber

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 % Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 134

Floral Fresh # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Vanilla Beans - Madagascar 6 Methyl Anthranilate 11 Musk Ambrette Substitute 8 Lime Oil C.P. 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 6 Amyris Oil 3 Santalol 23 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Ionone - alpha 5 Musk Dione 17 Peach Aldehyde 9 Galbanum Oil A 8 Aurantiol 10 Salicylate D’Amyle 12 Lemon USA - CA 6 Vanillin .1 Blackcurrant Absolute .1 Anisyl Alcohol 23 Linalyl Acetate 4 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 3 Petilyn 3 Pelargene 1 Meranol 96 Benzyl Acetate 12 Lyrame 5 Anisque Aldehyde .3 Jasilyn 3 Methyl Benzoate .1 Leaf Alcohol 11 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Black Tea Tincture 4 Methyl Cedyl Ketone 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 23 Citronellol 850 3 Ethyl Geranate 31 Eugenol 1 Jacinthe Augaflor 11 3 Ethyl Vanisal 5 Givescone 4 Styrax Resinoide 3 Veraflor 127 Geraniol 9 Citron Corps 9 Iridales 77 Lilac Base 276 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 19 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Ionone .1 Musk abs. C’Less 1 Alpha Damascone 41 Lyral .3 3 - Octyl Acetate 1 Cassis 1 Orinox 17 Linallol (l) ( natural ) 3 Syringa

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 135 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fresh # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Ethylene Brassylate .1 Alcohol C - 10 2 Cedryl Acetate 3 DMBC - Acetate 1 Ambrox D’L Coeur .1 Rose Oxide R 3 Benzophenone 42 Orange Oil of Florida 24 Benzylsalicylate 13 Aldehyde C - 14 21 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 35 Linalool 99 % 1 Heliomet .1 Rose Absolute Decolorized 3 Cashmeran 2 Methyl Diantilis 6 Resinoide Galbeno 1 Rose Acetate 11 Sandalwood Extender 1 Folia SA 13 Benteine 9 Orange Peel ( sweet ) 46 Ionone For Soap Base 47 Linalyl Acetate 25 Citronellol 4 Persicol SA 1 Irotyl 3 Tangerinr Oil Florida 3 Sandasweet 3 Meranol 2 Benzoin Resinoid .2 Aldehyde 13 - 13 43 Rose For Soap Base 5 Floreal 28 Eugenol .1 Leaf Alcohol 6 Di Metil Octanol 2 Iso - Eugenol 8 Hysimal 3 Fraisberry 7 Osyrol 6 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate 42 Lilac Base 11 Hedione 105 Geraniol .2 Iris Beurre Essence 11 Methyl Ionone Alpha 287 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 y - Irone 1,000 .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 9 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate 7 Methyl Iso Eugenol 4 Floramat 4 Santall 9 Geranyl Acetate Ex. Palmarosa 68 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Violettyne MIP

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 136

Floral Fresh # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

12 Santalex T Neat 6 Lavender Oil 3 Benzophenone 3 Fraise 3333 SA 4 Amber Base 41 Orange Oil Sweet - US .1 Civet Powder # 1B 1 Citronellyl Acetate 24 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 48 Linalyl Acetate Synthetic 9 Galaxolide 50 7 Peach Aldehyde 5 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Melfloral 27 Benzyl Salicylate 2 Geranyl Acetate 3 Iridales 5 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .1 Alpha Damascone 3 Grapefruit Cypress White 1 Amberwood .1 Alcohol C - 10 6 Irone V 1 Styrallyl Acetate 19 Citronellol Coeur 9 Orange Florida Midseason 73 MDJ .1 Aldehyde 13 - 13 7 Green Ivy Givco 168 .1 Rose Oxide R 38 Iso Eugenol Replacement 4 Peach Blossom FM - 1042 .1 Alcohol C - 8 1 Vanilla Beans 8 Liral .3 Hydroxycitronellal DMA 34 Jasmin Province Base 1 Sandalwood, India 37 Terpineol PG 4 Bergamot Oil Sicily 138 Geraniol 98 % 7 alpha - Ionone 3 Lioral 3 Santaliff 1 Iso Jasmone 1 Levanalis 54 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Javanil 290 Di Propileno Glico 1,000 1 Top Muguet .1 Angel Essence 4 Iso Eugenol 2 Methyl Diantilis 34 Etil Linalol 1 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 1 Citronellyl Acetate 4 Iso Jasmone B 11 2 Para Cresyl redistilled .1 Undecavertol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 137 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRESH

Top Grape 1 %

Bergamot 4 % - Dry, Lemon 1 %, Lime - .5 % Floral

Peach 1 %

Middle Jasmin 10 %

Amyl Slaicylate 1 % Violet 3.5 %, Muguet 7 %, Hawthorn 2 % Fresh Floral Methyl Benzoate 1 % Carnation 4 %, Lilac 9 %, Rose 20 %

Base Musk 1 %

Galbanum .5 %, Sandalwood 1 %, Styrax .5 % Sweet

Vanilla 1 % Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 138

Floral Fresh # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amber Substitute 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF 2 Raspberry Ketone 3 Orange Flower Base .1 Civet Augaflor 3 4 Methyl Pamplemousse .2 Veltol 9 Triplal 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Ghost Lily 2 Safraleine .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 119 Galaxolide 50 DEP 5 C - 16 28 Salicylate De Benzyle 3 Geranyl Acetate Pure 14 Osyrol .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso 3 Ethyl Butyrate 22 Linalool 14 Alicate 5 Strawberry Pure 30 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Lemon Oil California 1 Ambrofix .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 9 Hyacinth PP 1 Muguet Aldehyde 7 Citroflex # 2 4 Lime - Gambia 34 Benzyl Acetate 1 Tuberose Oliffac 2 Butyl Acetate 47 Verdox 1 Iso - Eugenol .1 Folione 9 Hexyl Acetate 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 5 Methyl Benzoate .1 Leaf Orient 11 a - Ionone Extra 2 Iridales 8 Citronellol .1 Rose Turque Essence 73 Muguet Base 1 Honeysuckle 9 Methyl Ionone Gamma 293 Di Propileno Glico 1 Ultrazeur 1,000 35 Geraniol Coeur 4 Florhydral 39 Linalyl Acetate 3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 13 DMBC - Acetate 36 Dihydromyrcenol 9 Hexyl Salicylate 4 Santalex T 3 Rhodiascent Extra Pure

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 139 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fresh # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Vanilina 24 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Kephalis 2 Nutmeg East Indian 19 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Floral 27 Osyrol .1 Tuberose Oliffac 5 Galbanum Colorized 6 Methyl Anthranlate 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Berryflor 9 Musk Ambrette Substitute .1 Nonadienal 8 Styrax Purified .1 Rose Iran Double Distilled Oil 11 Amyl Salicylate 6 Dimetol 14 Galaxolide 50 2 Jasmin Egyptian 3 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Geranium Oil Chinese 15 Ionone Alpha Refined 27 Linalyl Acetate Synthetic 6 Hyacinth PP .3 Santalyl Acetate 8 Metil Benzoato 13 Lemon Oil - Washed 74 Acetate de Benzila 8 Dihydromyrcenol .1 Rosalva 4 Leguminal 5 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol .1 Celery Essence 23 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Lime, Steam Distilled 9 Anisic Aldehyde 8 Aurantiol pure 1 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Iris Beurre Oil .1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Jasmylone 99 73 Lilac Base .1 Leaf Alcohol 4 Javanol 8 Lyral 291 Di Propileno Glico 1,000 21 Hedione 6 Citronellol 750 8 Syringa 13 Rose For Soap Base 21 Linalol 11 Lemon Oil Italian C.P. 24 Eugenol Pure 117 Geraniol 9 Persicol SA 3 Eugenol Acetate 1 Rhodiaflor SB

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 140

Floral Fresh # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Vanilla Beans - Madagascar 8 Lime Oil C.P. 11 Galaxolide Artessence 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Verdantiol 6 Amyris Haiti 9 Ionone - alpha 23 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % - China 17 Peach Aldehyde 5 Musk Dione 8 Aurantiol 9 Galbanum Oil A 12 Lemon USA - CA 10 Salicylate D’Amyle .1 Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan 6 Vanillin 23 Linalyl Acetate .1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Petilyn 4 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Meranol 3 Pelargene 12 Lyral 96 Benzyl Acetate FCC .3 Sparkling Champagne 5 Anisque Aldehyde .1 Leaf Alcohol 3 Methyl Benzoate 1 Black Tea Tincture 11 Ionone Alpha Refined 4 Soft Skin Accord - IFF 4 Methyl Cedyl Ketone 3 Ethyl Geranate 23 Citronellol 1 Jacinthe Augaflor 11 31 Eugenol 5 Florymoss 3 Ethyl Vanisal 3 Veraflor 4 Styrax Resinoide 9 Citron Corps 127 Geraniol 9 Ionone Alpha 77 Lilac Base 1,000 276 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 19 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Ionone .1 Musk Abs. C’Less 1 Alpha Damascone 41 Lyral .3 3 - Octyl Acetate 1 Cassis 1 Orinox 17 Linallol (l) ( natural ) 3 Syringa 6 Methyl Anthranilate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 141 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floral Sweet

FLORAL SWEET

Top Jasmin 1.5 %

Hexyl Salicylate 4 % Lime 4 %, Bergamot 6 %, Apple 5 %, Raspberry .5 % Fruity Sweet Hexyl Acetate 1 % Triplal .5 % Strawberry .5 %, Pineapple 1 %, Lemon 1 %

Middle Muguet 8 %

Fructone 1 % Rose 4 %, Jasmin 1.5 %, Violet 3 % Floral Butyl Acetate .75 % Ethyl Butyrate .25 % Hyacinth 1 %, Lily 1 % Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 % Amber - Trace Base Musk 12 %, Tonka 1.5 %, Civet - Trace Warm

Sandalwood 1 %, Veltol - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 4 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 142

Floral Sweet # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amberwood 3 Helional 2 Oxanone 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF .1 Civet Powder # 1B 3 Orange Flower Base .2 Raspberry Ketone 4 Pamplemousse 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Triplal 2 Safraleine 1 Lyral 129 Galaxolide 50 .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 28 Salicylate De Benzyle 5 Aldehyde C - 16 4 Osyrol 3 Geranyl Acetate 3 Ethyl Butyrate .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso 14 Alicate 22 Linalool - Kurary 35 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Strawberry Pure 1 Ambrofix 13 Lemon Oil California 4 Styrax Coeur .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 7 Citroflex 1 Muguet Aldehyde 34 Benzyl Acetate 4 Lime - Gambia 2 Butyl Acetate 1 Methyl Tuberate Pure 1 Iso, Eugenol 44 Verdox 9 Hexyl Acetate .1 Folione 5 Methyl Benzoate 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 11 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme .1 Leaf Orient 8 Citronellol 750 2 Iridales 73 Muguet Base .1 Rose Turque Essence 9 Methyl Ionone 1 Honeysuckle 293 Di Propileno Glico 1 Ultrazeur 35 Geraniol 1,000 4 Florhydral 39 Linalyl Acetate 3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 13 DMBC - Acetate 36 Di Hydro Myrcenol 9 Hexyl Salicylate 4 Sandela

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 143 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Sweet # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amber Substitute 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF 2 Oxanone 3 Orange Flower Base .1 Civet Augaflor 6 4 Methyl Pamplemousse .2 Veltol 9 Triplal 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Lilie 2 Pepperwood .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 119 Galaxolide 50 DEP 5 Aldehyde C - 16 28 Salicylate De Benzyle 3 Geranyl Acetate Pure 14 Osyrol .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso 3 Ethyl Butyrate 19 Linalol S 97 14 Alicate 5 Strawberry 30 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 12 Lemon Oil of Florida 1 Ambrofix .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 9 Hyacinth PP 1 Muguet Aldehyde 7 Frutone 2 Lime Oil # 410 34 Benzyl Acetate 1 Tuberose Oliffac 2 Butyl Acetate 47 Verdox 1 Iso Eugenol Replacement .1 Orange Flower Abs. 9 Hexyle Acetate 14 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 5 Methyl Benzoate .1 Leaf Orient 11 a - Ionone Extra 2 Iridales 8 Citronellol .1 Rose Turque Essence 73 Lilial 1 Kir Base # 9741 9 Methyl Ionone 293 Di Propileno Glico 1 Ultrazeur 1,000 35 Geraniol 60 4 Florhydral 39 Linalyl Acetate 3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 13 DMBC - Acetate 36 Di Hydro Myrcenol 9 Hexyl Salicylate 4 Sandalore 3 Coumarin pure

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 144

Floral Sweet # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

2 Amber Substitute 3 Helional 2 Oxanone 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF .1 Civet Augaflor 3 3 Orange Flower Base .2 Veltol 4 Methyl Pamplemousse 36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Triplal 2 Safraleine 1 Ghost Lily 124 Galaxolide 50 Dpg .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 28 Salicylate De Benzyle 5 Aldehyde C - 16 14 Osyrol 3 Geranyl Acetate Pure 3 Ethyl Butyrate .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso 14 Alicate 22 Linalool - Kurary 25 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Strawberry Pure 1 Ambrofix 10 Lemon Oil California 9 Hyacinth PP .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 7 Frutone 1 Muguet Aldehyde 37 MDJ 4 Lime - Gambia 2 Butyl Acetate 1 Tuberose Oliffac 1 Methyl Iso Eugenol 47 Verdox 6 Hexyl Acetate .1 Nonadienal 5 Methyl Benzoate 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 11 a - Ionone Extra .1 Leaf Orient 12 Citronellol 2 Iritone V 73 Muguet Base .1 Rose Turque Essence 3 Methyl Ionone 1 Honeysuckle 293 Di Propileno Glico 1 Ultrazeur 41 Geraniol 60 1,000 4 Florhydral 35 Linalyl Acetate 3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 13 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 36 Di Hydro Myrcenol 9 Hexyl Salicylate 4 Santalex T

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 145 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL SWEET

Top Bergamot 5 %

Orange Flower 1 %, Green Notes .5 % Fruity Green

Ylang Ylang 1 %, Jasmin 1 %, Vetiver

Middle Jasmin 5 %

Violet 8 %, Rose 8 %, Carnation 2 % Floral Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Amyl Salicylate 3 % Muguet 5 %, Vetiver 3 %

Base Musk 3 %

Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood 1 %, Styrax 1 % Light Musk

Moss - Trace, Patchouli 2 %, Opoponax .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 3 % Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 % Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 146

Floral Sweet # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Styrax Mix - Oil .1 Amberwood 24 Patchouli Oil Substitute 10 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 29 Benzyl Alcohol FR .1 2, 6 Nonad 1 al Diethyl Acetal 11 Alicate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 6 Opoponax Base 26 Linalol S 97 48 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Cassia Chinese 31 Galaxolide Gx 50 % DPG 2 Hydroxy Citronellal Di Ethyl Acetal 1 Mousse De Chenne 11 Orange Flower Base 24 Benzyle Salicylate 3 Vetiverol Extra 3 Piperonyl Acetate 1 Rose Oil Type NF 17 5 Cedrenyl Acetate 7 Bourgenal 53 Super Cepionate 31 Linalyl Acetate 9 Hidroxicitronelal 4 Aurantesein 10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Jasmophyll 1 Rosalva 3 Bergamot Oils 4 Methyl Phenyl Acetate .1 Neroli Oliffac 7 Traseolide 2 Eugenyl Acetate 5 Eugenol 1 Neryl Acetate 29 Amyl Salicylate 4 Rosilial Plus 27 Vetiver Extender .1 Caraway Seed Essence 48 Laurine - Givaudan 3 Santalex T - Neat 8 Citronellol 6 Iridales 5 Super Cepionate 7 Lavender Oil 40/42 64 Geraniol 60 1,000 15 Carnation Base 248 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 38 Hydroxycitronellol 1 Iso, Eugenol 9 Lyral 42 Methyl Ionone Gamma .1 Aldehyde C - 24 Pear 36 Methyl Ionone Gamma 8 Hexyl Salicylate .1 Orange Flower Abs. 9 Meijiff

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 147 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Sweet # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Sandec Givco 9 Orange Flower Base 28 Benzyl Alcohol FR .1 Alcohol C - 9 8 Di Hydro Coumarex 7 Vetiver Oil Haiti 11 Styrax Clarified .1 Ionone 47 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Styrallyl Acetate 29 Ethylene Brassylate 48 Muguet Base 3 Balsam Peru Oliffac 3 Hydratropic Aldehyde 21 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Vertifloreol 18 Patchouly Light 2 Tuberose Augaflor 25 1 Atralone .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 6 Opoponax Resinoid Washed 2 Genievre Baies Oil 33 Vetivert Extender 1 Scennal 1 Vanisal 3 Caraway Oil 6 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate .1 Rose Essence 193 D 9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Veraflor 3 Sandalore 2 Jamsonyl Acetate 15 Eugenol 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 38 MDJ 6 Myraldyl Acetate 6 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 27 Linalyl Acetate 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Santal Blanc 17 Rose For Soap Base .1 Leaf Alcohol 3 Vanilla Bean Tincture 1 Methyl Diantilis 5 Irone V 2 Neryl Acetate 8 Citronellol 3 Florantone T 15 Hedione 1 Cassia Oil - Fractions 6 Methyl Iso Eugenol 8 Lilial 325 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 51 Geraniol 60 3 Iridales 33 Iraldeine Standard Substitute 48 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Salicylate D’Amyle 3 Bois Amberene Forte 14 Linalool Synthetic

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 148

Floral Sweet # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Musk Ketone 3 DMBC - Acetate 7 Patchone 5 Orange Flower Base 16 Traseolide 700 Base 4 Eugenol Ex Clove 6 Opoponax Resinoid Washed 6 Terpineol 318 28 Benzyl Alcohol .1 Ylang Ylang Oil # 3 .1 Mousse De Metre 23 Iso Eugenol Replacement 49 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Styrallyl Alcohol 11 Styrax Resinoid .2 Lily Aldehyde 28 Amyl Salicylate .1 Vanilla Resinoide - Jamaica 10 Sandalwood Substitute 35 Linalyl Acetate 24 Musk 50 DEP 3 Sweet Pea 19 Iso E Super 1 Laurinal 77 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 13 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 8 a - Ionone 5 Vetiverol Extra 9 Amil Cinamico Aldeido 6 Florantone T 38 Hydroxycitronellal Sub AB 2040 7 Ionone Alpha Refined 3 Musk R - 1 3 Muguet Alcohol .1 Rose Oxide L .4 Iso Rose 27 Vetivert Extender 4 Massada 1 Helioforte 7 Orangeflor Deco 6 Santalol 1 Aniba Roseodora 13 Meijiff 3 Persicol SA 1 Iris Beurre Oil 2 Heliotropin 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000 335 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 14 Hydroxycitronellol 23 Rose for Soap Base 1 Florosia 4 Citronellol 1 Sandalo Olifac 66 Geraniol Extra 1 Tonkarinol 23 Linalool Coeur .1 Methyl Tuberate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 149 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floral Aldehydic

FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral aldehydic compounds were discovered in the 19th century. Aldehydes have a powerful diffusive effect, and are characterized by a rich opulent top note. In small parts certain aldehydes are used as a top note effect simulating a variety of floral scents that are found in nature. Muguet or Lily of the Valley based on Hydroxycitronellal is a popular example. Utilizing aldehydes provide modern accords with a richness and depth. The first fine fragrance utilizing a large percentage of synthetic components was Chanel # 5 created by Ernest Beaux for Coco Chanel. Other sub groups can include woody and powdery notes that are a combination of Anisic Aldehyde, and Cedarwood Oil of Virginia.

Top Bergamot 6 % - Dry

Orange Blossom 1 %, Ylang Ylang .5 %, Wardia 2 % Floral Aldehydic

Cassis 1 %

Middle Muguet 13 %

Jasmin 6 %, Ylang 2 %, Rose 4 % - Warm Floral Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 % Violet 9 %, Carnation 3 %, Nutmeg .5 %

Base Musk 6 %

Sandalwood 1 %, Tonka 5 %, Vanilla 1.5 % Sweet Spicy

Civet - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Benzyl Benzoate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 31 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 150

Floral Aldehydic # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Base # 9 6 Hydroxycitronellal A 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 29 Musk Ambrette Substitute .1 Rose Bulgare Oil 9 Benzyl Benzoate 1 Helional 48 Cou Marin 1 Gaultheria Southern FCC 9 Vanisal .1 Alcool C - 9 24 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Orange C.P. & Sweet 17 Amyl Cinamic Aldehyde 5 Iso - Eugenol 9 Sandela 3 Anisque Alcool 62 Benzyle Acetate .1 Jasmine Abs. - India 109 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Galbanodor 1 Damascenia 2 Citroflor 7 Vanillin, ethyl 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 3 Irisone Pure 5 Soft Skin Accord - IFF 4 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Methyl Jasmonate pure 22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic .1 Leaf Alcohol 27 Eugenol 1 Aldehyde Cortex 50 4 Citronellol 4 Floramat 23 Muguet Base 2 Jasilyn 4 Javanol 3 Alpha Ionone 60 1 Rosone 6 Kephalis 75 Iraldeine Standard Substitute 1 Bourgeons 1 Mallow 3 Geranyl Acetate Pure - IFF 20 Geraniol .1 Mallow .1 Vanilla Abs. C’Less 1 Citronica 3 Gardenia Acetal 314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 17 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000 1 Iso Jasmone 4 alpha - Irone 33 Galaxolide Gx 50 % DEP 11 Orange Flower Base .1 Aldehyde C 11 - 11 1 Vanillyl Alcohol 9 Wardia - Firmenich

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 151 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Aldehydic # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Sandalwood Substitute 4 Apritone 44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 15 Orange Flower Base .1 Civet Base # 1 19 Geranyl Acetate 9 Iso E Super 8 Bergamot Oil Na 24 Salicylate De Benzyle .1 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic .1 Tallish Patro Resinoide 4 Prunella 11 Benzyle Benzoate .1 Aldehyde C 11 - 11 3 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Cassis Fragrance 48 Coumane 4 Nutmeg Oil Indonesia 63 Benzyl Acetate Coeur .1 Ylang Oil I Morocco 10 Laurine Extra 2 Orangeflor Deco .1 Oakmoss Givco 214 5 Tangerine Oil C.P. Florida 15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Kir Base # 9741 16 Sandalmysore Core 4 Florantone T 117 Muguet Base 1 Peomosa 9 Methyl Ionone Alpha 2 Vanilla Inco 3 4 Citronellol 1 Petilyn 5 alpha - Ionone .1 Rose Templar 9 Meijiff .3 Leaf Alcohol 8 Vanillin 8 Geranyl Acetate Super FCC 43 Geraniol 970 4 Santalol 5 Lilivert .1 Iso Eugenol 1 Musk Emeressence 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 26 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000 307 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 72 Ionone Intermediate Base 7 Vanillin, Ethyl 8 Lavender 40/42 % 3 Sweet Pea 1 Cyclogalbaniff 7 Vetiveryl Acetate 4 Phixia 1 Croton Fruit Oil 3 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 152

Floral Aldehydic # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

38 Galaxolide 50 3 p - Cresyl Acetate 1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 1 Sandalore .1 Civet Augaflor 6 4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 24 Salicylate De Benzyl .1 Neroli Morocco 7 Vanillina 1 Verdantol 43 Coumarin Substitute 3 Nutmeg Oil - Indonesia 6 Khoavone 2 Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate 44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Vanilys 9 Serenolide 25 Linalol 6 Hydrofix L .3 Ylang # 1 11 Benzyl Benzoate 17 Wardia 4 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Alcohol C - 98 58 Benzyl Acetate 1 Ylang Ylang Substitute 13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Orange Oil of California 104 Muguet Base 3 Sandalwood Oil Rectified India 10 Ionone For Soap .1 Orange Flor Deco 1 Musk Tibetine 1 Tuberose Oliffac 4 Iris Beurre Oil 1 Cassis Fragrance .1 Rose Crystals 3 Massada 26 Eugenol 98 % natural 1 Carnaline 9 Jasmin Province Base 9 alpha - Ionone 5 Citronellol Coeur 4 Sandenol 208 7 Leeral 1 Franboise 2222 .1 Musk Absolute 1 Persicol 65 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 11 Rose Substitute 316 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 3 Citronellol Muguet 92 % 3 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .1 Neroline 1 Florisia .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 10 Orange Flower Base 28 Geraniol 17 Linalyl Acetate Special

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 153 Aranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Top Bergamot 6 %

Pear 1 %, Rose 2 %, Cassis .5 %, Strawberry - Trace Floral Aldehydic

Orange Flower 1 %

Middle Lily of the Valley 11 %

Rose 4 %, Ylang Ylang 1.5 %, Jasmin 5 % Floral

Nutmeg .5 %, Violet 10 %, Carnation 3 %

Base Sandalwood 2 %

Musk 5 %, Tonka 5 %, Vanilla 1.5 % Sweet Spicy

Civet - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 154

Floral Aldehydic # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Base # 1 6 Hydroxycitronellal 55 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 29 Musk Ambrette Substitute .1 Rose Bulgare Oil 9 Benzyl Benzoate 1 Alicate 48 Coumarin 1 Gaultheria Southern FCC 9 Vanillin .1 Alcool C - 10 24 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 3 Orange C.P. & Sweet 17 Amyl Cinamic Aldehyde 5 Iso - Eugenol 9 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 3 Anisque Alcool 62 Benzyl Acetate .1 Jasmine Abs. - India 109 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Galbanodor 1 Damascenia 2 Citroflor 7 Vanillin, ethyl 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 3 Irisone Pure 5 Iso Amyl Gernate 4 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Methyl Jasmonate 22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic .1 Leaf Alcohol 27 Eugenol 1 Aldehyde Cortex 50 4 Citronellol 4 Floramat 23 Muguet Base 2 Jasilyn 4 Sandela 3 Alpha Ionone 60 1 Rose Crystals 6 Kephalis 75 Iraldeine Standard Substitute 1 Bourgeons 1 Mallow 3 Geranyl Acetate Pure - IFF 20 Geraniol 98 % .1 Biflor .1 Vanilla Bean Clair 1 Citronica 3 Gardenia Acetal 314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 17 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000 1 Jasmone Iso 4 alpha - Irone 33 Galaxolide Gx 50 % DEP 11 Orange Flower Base .1 Aldehyde C 11 - 11 1 Vanillyl Alcohol 9 Wardia

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 155 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Aldehydic # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

62 Ethylene Brassylate 34 Linalol S 97 47 Coumarin Substitute 1 Carnaline 9 Benzyle Salicylate .1 Black Tea Extract .1 Rosalva 15 Orange Blossom Base 11 Sandalwood Oil Australian .4 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Lavender Population 8 Vanillin 1 Geraniol - ex Plmarosa Oil 1 Beta Damascone 6 Bourgenal 33 Benzyl Acetate 20 Linalyl Acetate 11 Rose For Soap Base .6 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 3 Heliotropine 1 Caraway Oil 111 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Ionone 100 % 3 Aspic Espagne .1 Celery Essence 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Rose Oil Templar 1 Dupical 6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 3 Eugenol 8 Neroli Artessence 77 Iraldiene Standard Substitute 3 Bergamal 9 Lilial .1 Undecatriene 4 Ethyl Vanillin .1 Leaf Alcohol 11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Fruitline AB876 32 Geraniol 3 Bourgenal 20 MDJ 1 Mallow .1 Syringa 4 Citronellol Pure 20 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000 .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 323 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 13 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 22 Eugenol / Clove 1 Bonorax .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 4 Nutmeg Oil - India .1 Nonadienal 1 Lime Oil Roses Type

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 156

Floral Aldehydic # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

42 Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 Muguet Aldehyde 50 1 Benzophenone 2 Florantone T 7 Cashmeran .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 11 Benzyl Salicylate 6 Cassis Fragrance 46 Coumane 4 Iso Jasmone B - 11 .1 Civet # 3 S - 788 3 Orangeflor 3 Piperonyl Acetate 5 Fir Needle Silver 8 Vanillin 2 Neroli Oliffac 1 Anisyl Alcohol 17 Linalyl Acetate 12 Sandec Givco 220 7 Nerol 128 Muguet Base 5 Orange Flower Base 63 Benzyle Acetate .1 Violet Leaf .1 Rosa Damascena 4 Wardia - Firmenich 16 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Alpha Iso Methyl Ionol Acetate 9 Phenylethylalcohol 1 Bergamot, C. P. Guinea 85 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Zingerone 22 Eugenol .1 Iridales 4 Ethyl, Vanillin 3 Vetiveryl Acetate Java 6 Citronellol 3 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 3 Ionone Alpha .1 Leaf Acetal 9 Ylang Ylang Substitute 1 Cyclorose 11 Hedione 1 Feuillage Vert Base 21 Geraniol 98 3 Neryl Acetate 8 Lyral 1 Orris Oil 309 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 .1 Carrot Weed Oil 4 Tuberose Substitute .1 Lichen 3 Safraleine 55 Galaxolide 50 Gx in DEP 1 Tuberose Oliffac .1 Alcool C - 8 1 Undecatriene 29 Linalool 4 Nutmeg Oil India

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 157 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Top Orange Blossom 1 %

Ylang Ylang .5 %, Wardia 2 %, Cassis .5 % Floral Aldehydic

Bergamot 6 % - Dry

Middle Muguet 11 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Rose 3 %, Ylang Ylang 2 %, Jasmin 5 % Floral

Nutmeg .5 %, Violet 10 %, Carnation 3 %

Base Sandalwood 2 %

Musk 5 %, Tonka 5 %, Vanilla 1.5 %

Civet - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 158

Floral Aldehydic # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

57 Traseolide 700 Base 8 Wardia - Firmenich 5 Picca Mariana .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 8 Vanisal 6 Terpineol ( Perfumery Grade ) .1 Civettone 1 Trimentina 11 Sandalwood Substitute 3 Orafleur 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 15 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Benzyle Salicylate 34 Linalool 5 Tonka Feve Resinoide 21 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 49 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Tuberose Oliffac 5 Musk Emeressence 2 Bourgeons De Cassis 44 Acetate De Benzyle 1 Orange Bitter .1 Vanilla Tincture .4 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 11 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Lysmeral 4 Sandalwood Oil .1 Nonadienal 6 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Ylang Heart No. 3 21 Eugenol .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 76 Muguet Base 18 Linalyl Acetate 17 Ionone Alpha 1 Florymoss 6 Citronellol 3 Orangeflor Deco 9 Iso Jasmone .6 Tangerine Oil CP Florida .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 3 Nerol Petals 23 Rose For Soap Base 1 Freesia 1 Cassia Oliffac 319 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Pepperwood 1,000 17 Geraniol 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 12 Hydroxycitronellol 9 Laurine Extra 83 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate 1 Perryfix - CA 9 Orange Blossom Base 4 Nutmeg Indonesia

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 159 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Aldehydic # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Vanillin .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 11 Musk Ambrette Substitute 5 Bergamot Africa 7 Kephalis 4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 7 Lyral 15 Osyrol .1 Folione .1 Alpha Damascone .1 Ligustral 12 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 1 Geranium Oil African 47 Rhodiascent Extra pure .4 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 51 Benzyl Acetate 6 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 4 Cashmeran 3 Nutmeg Oil East Indian 1 Florymoss 41 Linalol 6 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Violetleaves 5 Sandol - SA 1 Applitone 18 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Alcohol C - 08 33 Carnation Base .1 Rose Bourbon Abs. 1 Balsam Peru Oliffac 1 Galbanodor CG 4 Di Hydro Coumarex 10 Orange Blossom Base 53 Galaxolide Gx in 50 % DEP .1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF 1 Hydroxy Extra 23 Linalyl Acetate 12 Rose Substitute .4 Rose Summer Damask 5 Anisic Aldehyde 3 Cassis Fragrance 6 Citronellol 5 Dupical 14 Hedione 1 Lavender 50/52 % 103 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Nerol .1 Rosalva 1 Vamba 105 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .1 Geraniol 600 308 Di Propileno Glico 1 Massada 14 Geraniol 80 1 Iso - Eugenol 1 Cedraclaire 1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 160

Floral Aldehydic # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

62 Galaxolide 50 34 Linalol S 97 47 Coumarin Pure 1 Methyl Diantilis 9 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Black Tea Extract .1 Polarose 15 Orange Blossom Base 11 Sandalwood Oil East Indian .4 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Lavender Oil - France 8 Vanillin 1 Geraniol - ex Plmarosa Oil 1 Delta Damascone 6 Cassis Fragrance 33 Benzyl Acetate 20 Linalyl Acetate 11 Rose For Soap Base .6 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 1 Caraway Oil 111 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Ionone 100 % 3 Aspic Espagne .1 Celery Essence 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Rose Oil Templar 1 Dupical 6 Zeppin 3 Eugenol / Clove 8 Neroli Artessence 77 Iraldiene Standard Substitute 3 Bergamal 9 Lilial .1 Undecatriene 4 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Leaf Alcohol 11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Fruitline AB876 32 Geraniol 3 Bourgenal 20 Benzyl Acetate 1 Mallow .1 The 4 Citronellol 20 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000 .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 323 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 13 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 22 Eugenol / Clove 1 Petilyn .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 4 Nutmeg Oil - India .1 Nonadienal 1 Kaffir Lime

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 161 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Chypre Floral

CHYPRE FLORAL

Top Bergamot 4 % - Fruity

Triplal .5 % Green Notes - Trace, Jasmin Citrus

Undecavertol - Trace, Lavender .5 %, Apple 1 %

Middle Violet 7 %

Peonile 1 % Muguet 6 %, Jasmin 7 %, Hawthorn 2.5 % Floral Iso E Super 3 % H C A 4 % Argumex 2 %, Gardenia 1 %, Rose 6 % - Sweet

Base Sandalwood .5 %

Musk 3 %, Galbanum 1 %, Moss - Trace Warm

Patchouli - Trace, Okumal - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 34 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 162

Chypre Floral # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Sandela 17 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 27 Iso & Super 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 1 Oakmoss Givco 214 1 Geranyl Acetate 22 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Phenylethylalcohol 33 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 6 Triplal 1 Mousse De Chenne 14 Linalool Special 99 % 9 Galbanum Colourless A 1 Hydroxyciol .1 Civet Powder # 1A .1 Rose - Saudi Arabia 13 Alicate 9 Verdox 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Methyl Jasmonate 7 Gardenia Fleuriff 1 Styrallyl Acetate 14 Peonile 3 Ionone Alpha 42 Hedione 1 Meranol 9 Gardenia Base .1 Undecavertol 3 Styrax Extra .3 Bois De Cedre Texas .1 Rose Crystals 4 Iso Amyl Geranate 24 Aubepine 23 Linalyl Acetate 38 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 9 Lavender Tasmanian 26 Benzyl Acetate .1 Methyl Tuberate 5 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol 3 Apple Oliffac 15 Citronellol 1 Tangerinol 1 Florymoss .1 Leaf Alcohol 18 Jasmin Province Base 1 Cyclogalbonate 1 Anisyl Acetone 1 Iso - Eugenol 345 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 54 Liral 71 Geraniol 1,000 1 Sage Clary 55 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Mayol 9 Amyl Salicylate .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Undecylenic 3 Verdantiol .1 Rose Otto Bulgaria

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 163 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Floral # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Okumal .1 Rose Oil Otto Bulgaria 32 Iso E Super 114 Linalol ( Perfumery Grade ) 3 Sandalore 5 DMBC - Acetate .1 Evernyl .1 Undecavertol 4 Patchouli Oil F 867 .1 Jasmine India Absolute 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Geraniol 600 9 Galbanum Resinoide 11 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate 11 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Sur Fleurs d’oranger Oil 14 Laurine 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 1 Vanilla Bean Clair 27 Linalyl Acetate 11 Peonile .1 Folione 75 Super Cepionate 3 Apple Oliffac 5 Osyrol 5 Florhydral 2 Javanol .1 Leaf Alcohol 9 Lilial 3 Neroli Bigarad 68 Ionone For Soap Base 1 Styrallyl Acetate 4 Methyl Para Cresole 8 Tangerine, Florida 8 Citronellol 750 3 Nerol 11 Iso Amyl Geranate 5 Top Galbanum 18.326 SAB 12 Gardenia Base .1 Methyl Tuberate 36 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Geranio Bourbon 23 Aubepine 5 Geranyl Acetate 9 Lavende Verte 1,000 338 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 15 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 34 Geraniol 3 Anisalcohol 5 Lyral 8 Ionone Alpha 60 33 Galaxolide 50 1 Poirinate 3 Galbanodor 2 Berryflor 6 Triplal .1 Alcohol C - 9 53 Muguet Base

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 164

Chypre Floral # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

33 Iso E Super 3 Geranyl Formate 9 Top Galbanum 18.326 4 Triplal 35 Phthalate D’Ethyle .1 Folione 1 Mousse De Metre 5 Lavender 48/50 % 17 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 1 Orris Inco 2 4 Patchouli Oil Light 1 cis - Jasmone 7 Sandalwood Synthetic 11 Verdox 35 Musk 50 DEP .1 Vert de Cassis Givco 180 .1 Anisylalcohol 3 Apritone 2 Javanol .1 Undecaverto 18 Gardenia Base 3 Citronet 1 Heliotropine 5 Nerol Pure 12 Peonile 2 Begamont 63 Hydroxycitronellol 27 Linalyl Acetate 1 Gardenia Acetal 1 Pamplemousse 71 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 4 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 97 % 64 Ionone For Soap .2 Neroli Bigarade Oil 33 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Stemone 58 Geraniol 970 .1 Germacrene D’Natural 40 % PC 192 11 Anisque Aldehyde 1 Iris Givco 204/2 57 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Sweet Orange Oil .1 Parmavert 3 Applinal 6 Citronellol 750 .1 Cis - 3 - Hexenol 14 Argumen 1 Florymoss - Givaudan 321 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Methyl Jasmonate 1 Benzophenone 1,000 4 Freesia 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Mallow 1 Perryfix 3 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Aldeido C - 8 10 Linalool Synthetic FCC 1 Muguet Aldheyde 50 BB

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 165 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Chypre Fresh

CHYPRE FRESH

Top Bergamot 6 % Dry

Jasmin 1 %, Ylang Ylang .5 %, Grape .5 %, Woody Notes .5 % Fresh

Green Notes, Carnation

Middle Jasmin 8 %

Violet 9 %, Carnation 2 %, Rose 7 % - Sweet Floral Amyl Salicylate 1 % Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye 2.5 % Vetiver 5 %, Muguet 2.5 %, Lavender .5 %

Base Tonka 3 %

Patchouli 2 %, Sandalwood 4 %, Moss - Trace Woody

Musk 2 %, Opoponax - Trace, Olibanum - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 166

Chypre Fresh # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Evernyl 8 Methyl Anthranilate 19 Patchouli Indonesian Light 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 10 Benzyl Alcohol 4 Carnation Augaflor 51 34 Coumane 6 Menthanyl Acetate 3 Olibanum Resinoid 29 Linalool 97 % 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 4 DMBC - Acetate 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Alcohol C - 9 16 Galaxolide Artessence 1 Styrallyl Acetate 5 Opoponax Base 7 Ylang Ylang Substitute 11 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Pearlate 8 Meijiff 2 Vetiveryl Acetate 35 Sandalwood Extender 9 Aurantiol Pure 77 Acetato Benzila 1 p - Cresyl Acetate 14 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Petilyn 23 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Bois Amberene Forte 4 Endro Estragao 20 Linalyl Acetate 73 Ionone Intermediate Base 14 Methyl Ionone Alpha 59 Geraniol 9 Lyral 16 Carnation Base 6 Myraldyl Acetate 3 Levanalis .1 Carnaline 1 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Leaf Alcohol 39 Vetiver Extender 5 Empetal 8 Citronellol 3 Jasmonyl 8 Irisone Bis .1 Ionone 318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .3 Phelandrone 3 Methyl Lavender Ketone 1 Roseone 2 Veraflor 1,000 6 Koavonne 1 Anisyl Alcohol .1 Undecavertol 4 Geranyl Acetate 3 Nutmeg India 6 Amyl Salicylate 2 Guaiyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 167 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Fresh # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

28 Coumarin Substitute .2 Methyl Tuberate Pure 14 Cashmeran 1 Dianthanol 9 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 4 Grape Base 1 Evernyl 25 Linalool 22 Salicylate De Benzyle .1 Octyl Acetate 3 Opoponax Base 11 Ylang Ylang Substitute 44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Muguesia 2 Olibanum Resinoid 50 % / DPG .1 Bha 6 Galbanum Resinoide 1 Girofle Griffex 9 Acetate Iso Eugenol 3 Cedrenyl Acetate 25 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Scennal 45 Rose Base .1 Rosa 6 Methyl Lavender Ketone 1 Mountain Savory 1 Jacinthe 127 SA .1 Ylang 5 Citronellol 5 Muguet Aldehyde 50 74 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 3 Jasmonyl Acetate 12 Eugenol .1 Fleur D’Oranger Vert De 115SA 3 Di Methyl Octanol 2 White Graperuit Israel Oil 7 Kephalis .1 Rose 1892 34 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 37 Linalyl Acetate 25 Galaxolide Gx in DEP 3 Bourgenal 19 Patchouli natural & std. Oil 1 Sandel, Asia 3 Lyral .1 Rose Oxide R 65 Geraniol 60 1 Vanillin 4 Hydroxyciol 47 Vetiver Extender 1 Santalol 1,000 316 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Helioforte 3 Tangerine - Mexico 44 Sandalwood Substitute 9 Lavender Oliffac 3 Methyl Iso Eugenol .1 Alcool C - 8 2 Valarian 5 Geranyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 168

Chypre Fresh # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

19 Patchouli Oil MD .1 Bitter Orange Sicily Essence 9 Benzyl Alcohol 1 Ethyl Geranate 28 Coumarin Substitute .3 Ionone 1 Lichen 23 Linalol S97 37 Sandalwood Extender .1 Tea Green 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Gyrane 24 Galaxolide 50 5 Methyl Jasmonate 3 Brahmanol 3 Scennal .1 Vanilla Absolute .1 Violiff 11 Salicylate Amila 39 Linalyl Acetate 1 Opoponax Resinoid .1 Aldehyde C - 10 4 Sanjinol 3 Rodinol Sweet 19 Benzyl Salicylae 5 Citronet 26 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Lindentree 14 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Petilyn .1 Alcohol C - 8 2 Orange Oils Dark 6 Alpha - Ionol 1 Thyme, White 3 Musk Gazalle 4 Nerol 97 22 Citronellol 3 Cananga 5 Orris Oil .1 Undecatriene 10 % 45 Geraniol 33 Ionone Alpha 60 9 Methyl Lavender Ketone 4 Rose Acetal 13 Damascenia Base 3 Mandarinal 1 Opoponax Resinoid Washed 6 Methyl Anthranilate 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Iso, Eugenol 24 Carnation Base 309 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 Ravensare 1,000 83 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 45 Vetiver Extender 24 Lilial 1 Acetate Styralyle 9 Aurantiol pure 4 Neryl Acetate 1 Phyllos

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 169 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE FRESH

Top White Vineyard Peach 4 %

Pear 1 %, Violet Leaves - Trace, Bergamot - Italian 6 % Fruity Fresh Fruity

Mandarin Yellow 3 %, Orange Flower Abs. - Trace

Ylang Ylang 3 % Middle Rose 9 % - Sweet, Sir Paul Smith Rose .5 %, Violet 5 % Floral Vetiver 2 % Reseda 1 %, Muguet 6 %, Jasmin 8 %

Base Patchouli 3 %

Sandalwood 3 %, Moss - Trace, Vanilla 3 % Warm

Tonka 1 %, Benzoin .5 %, Leather .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 3 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 170

Chypre Fresh # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

22 Patchouli Oil T 871 3 Geranyl Acetate .1 Civet 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate .1 Evernyl 34 Peacharoma Base 28 Sandela 1 Heptone 15 Vanisal 1 Santallyl Acetate 41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Orange Flower Base 5 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 24 Linalool 3 Cedryl Acetate Liquid 1 Serenolide 29 Benzylsalicylate 1 Neroline 4 Di Isopropyl Phenol 2 Iso Amyl Geranate .1 Chharla .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute 5 Brahmanol 3 Bergamot Oil Ivory Coast 15 Ethyl Vanillin 57 Linalyl Acetate 1 Adoxal 1 Methyl Benzoate 22 Vetiver Extender .1 Neroli Blossom Water 3 Balsam Peru Oil 4 Lilial 6 Javanol 9 White Vineyard Peach - Givaudan 9 Hydroxyciol .1 Ylang Eco Essence 1 Leather LWS - 3768 4 Lavender Oil Clonal 4 Reseda Body 2 Ionone Alpha 8 Citronellol750 .2 Leaf Alcohol 1 Nyctanthes 1 Meranol 13 Rose For Soap Base 5 Jasmorange F 312 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 53 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 78 Geraniol 98 % 2 Beta Ionyl Acetate 57 Muguet Base 71 Hedione 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Alcohol C - 08 24 Mandarin Oil Yellow C.P. 5 Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan .1 Cassia rectified

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 171 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Fresh # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Benzoin Siam Resinoid .1 Orange Flower Base 1 Oakmoss Givco 1 Anapear 44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Suderal HT - IFF 17 Vanilina 2 Ultrazur 35 Benzylsalicylate 5 Geranyl Acetate 29 Sandalwood Extender .1 Orange Flor Deco 1 Cedryl Acetate 1 Cassis Fragrance 25 Patchouly Madagascar 3 Geranodyle 2 Benzophenone 1 cis - 3 - Hexanol 13 Di Iso Propyl Phenol .1 Sandalwood Essence 6 Green Ivy Givco 168 35 Aldehyde C - 14 2 Suderal LT 1 Calendula Oil 5 Serenolide 3 Jasmonyl Acetate 19 Vetiver Extender .1 Folione 27 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Bergamot Eco Essence 12 Vanillin, Ethyl 1 Anapear 3 Heliotropinone 3 Nerol Coeur 68 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Phyllos 13 Benzyle Acetate 11 Alil Amil Glicato 14 Citronellol 1 Petilyn .1 Vanilla Absolute .1 Rose Riviera 25 Ionone Alpha 4 Laurine Extra 7 Terpineol .1 Vertocinth 3 Rose Oil Templar 18 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 25 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000 74 Geraniol 327 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Reseda Body 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Musk Emeressence .1 Alcohol C - 9 28 Mandarin Italian .1 Irone V 4 Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan 3 Amyl Salicylate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 172

Chypre Fresh # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 29 Patchouli Oil MD 8 Vertofix Coeur 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 26 Mandarin Oil - South Africa 25 Vanillin .2 Pepperwood 32 Sandela 1 Birch Sweet Canada .1 Mousse De Chenne .1 Undecavertol .1 Rose Oxide L 3 Anapear 1 Glycolierral 5 Argumex hc 3 Cedryl Acetate 50 % .1 Rose Blossom Pentanol 1 Anisyl Alcohol 6 Tangerine Oil - Florida 4 Reseda Body 4 Nerol 3 English Leather Base 3 Orange Flower Base 1 Methyl Benzoate 4 Pearlate 24 Vetiver Extender 3 Lindestrene 2 Hawthorn 11 White Vienyard Peach - Givaudan 6 Rosenol Synthetic 1 Bergamote Cote d’Ivoire 75 Acetate De Benzila 1 Bergamot Oil Calabrian Finest 17 Ethyl Vanisal 4 Geranyl Acetate 1 Damascenia 185 SA .1 Leaf Acetal 8 Hidroxicitronelal .1 Violet Leaves 63 Geraniol 1 Iso Jasmone 29 Ylang Ylang Substitute 38 Linalyl Acetate 24 Ionone Alpha 60 4 Methyl Lavender Ketone 15 Rose Substitute 1,000 314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 9 Citronellol Pure .1 2 - Undecanone 4 Laurine Extra .1 Alcohol C - 8 22 Linalool 54 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 28 Peach Pure - Givaudan 2 Massada 4 Meranol 18 Methyl Ionone Gamma

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 173 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Chypre Fruity

CHYPRE FRUITY

This concept is characterized by a predominate fruitiness often having a peach like fragrance. It is more pronounced in this group having components that are inherent to this family.

Top Apple 3 %

Bergamot 8 %, Lime 4 %, Tangerine 2 % Fruity

Peach 1 %

Middle Jasmin 8 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Rose 14 %, Lilac 6 %, Hawthorn 1 % Floral Methyl Cedryk Ketone 1 % Muguet 2 %, Argumen 1 %

Base Musk 10 %

Cedar 1, % Sandalwood 1 % Animalic

Moss - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 174

Chypre Fruity # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Moss Oliffac .1 Alcohol C - 9 93 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Lime Essence 9 Osyrol 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Tangerinol 14 Coumane 11 Di Ethyl Malonate 8 Cedarwood Oil Virginia 29 Linalool 3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Ocimene PQ 22 Benzylsalicylate 9 Lime Oil Distilled Mexican 4 Sandalore .3 Aldheyde C - 12 Lauric 1 Rosone .1 Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate 65 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 3 Bergamot Oil - Italy 9 Argumen Substitute 8 Hydroxyciol 4 Cycrohexylethylacetate 4 Methyl Diantilis 3 Florhydral 1 Phenylethylacetate 10 Aubepine ( Anisic Aldehyde ) 9 Menthanyl Acetate 22 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 43 Linalyl Acetate 1 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 2 Perryfix 5 Hydroxy Citronellal Di Ethyl Acetal 3 Hysimal 9 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 29 Di Hydro Myrcenol 58 Terpineol Prime 5 Vetyralia 3562 P 7 Citronellol 2 Top Muguet 4 Florhydral .1 Alpha Damascone 2 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Meijiff 294 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 7 alpha - Ionone 91 Geraniol 3 Jasilyn .1 Rose Templar 1 Glycolierral 3 Tropical Jasmine 8 Apple Juice Givco 204/2 4 Jasmin Egypt .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Undecylenic 10 Hexyl Salicylate 17 Verdox

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 175 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Fruity # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Santalex T Neat 5 Floramelon 22 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 9 Coumarin 13 Lavender Citrus Base 1 Mousse De Chenne .1 Violet Leaf Abs. .1 Civet Artificial IA 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 73 Galaxolide Artessence 9 Fresh Apple - Sweet Note 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Persicol SA 10 Patchouli Indonesian Light 26 Dimetol 9 Aubepine .1 Nonadienal 3 Scennal 33 Linalool 1 Cedro ( Folha ) .1 Rose Blossom Pentanol 8 Hyacinth Base 1 Vanilla Bean Tincture 5 Florhydral .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 22 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido 1 Tangerinol 4 Sandalwood Oliffac 1 Applinal 7 Cedarwood Oil ( Indian ) 19 Tangerine Oil C.P. 75 bEnzyl Acetate 1 Scennal 10 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 47 Linalyl Acetate 9 Argumen Substitute 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 14 Citronellol - High Purity 1 Apritone 2 Lindenol .1 Leaf Alcohol 1 Methyl tuberate Pure 3 Methyl Jasmonate 3 Di Methyl Octanol 5 Citrus Bergamia 8 Rose Substitute 1 Meranol 9 Lilial 35 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 297 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 5 Lyral 67 Geraniol 60 28 Lilac Base 11 Hexyle Salicylate .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 26 Apple Juice 600 .1 Black Tea Extract 1 Iso Damascone .1 Rose Abs. Maroc 4 Armoise Maroc

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 176

Chypre Fruity # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Cedrenyl Acetate 3 Apple Juice Givco 223 8 Brahmanol 6 Bergamot Oil - Italian 1 Oakmoss Givco 214 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 2 Ambarine - Synarome 2 Berryflor 75 Galaxolide Artessence 1 Iralia 14 Coumarin pure 47 Linalyl Acetate Synthetic 33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 19 Dimetol 1 Rose Crystals 6 Geranyl Acetone 22 Benzylsalicylate 11 Verdox 9 Laurine Extra 8 Bergamot Oil Substitute 3 Javanol 4 Vanilla Beans 58 Acetate De Benzila 7 Lime Oil, distilled 4 Melfloral 9 Di Ethyl Malonate 21 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .8 Styrallyl Acetate 3 Sandalwood Oliffac 23 Tangerine Oil - Florida 9 Aubepine 2 Gelsol F 12 Argumen Substitute .1 Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate 10 Methyl Cedryl Ketone ( Vetamber ) 1 Syringa Aldehyde 55 Terpineol Prime 3 Petilyn 4 Citronellol 1 Apple Oliffac 15 Jasmin Province Base .1 Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant 5 Ionone Alpha 60 2 Silvial 103 Geraniol 98 % 1 Nerol 1 Cashmeran 1 Styrax REsinoide .1 Alcohol C - 9 1,000 302 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Ivor Corps 26 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic .1 Carnation Leaves Essence .3 Rose Otto 31 Linalol Synthetic

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 177 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE FRUITY

Top Vanoris 3 %

Fleuramone - Trace Bergamot 6 % - Fruity, Petitgrain 1 %, Lemon 7 % Fruity cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate - Trace Extrovert High Impact - Trace Basil 2 % Rose Nitrile - Trace Jasmine 11 % Middle Tilanol 3 %, Rose 7 % - Sweet, Violet 2 % Floral Amyl Salicylate 1 % Vertenex 3 % Verotyl 3 %, Argumen 1 %, Cyclomyral 1 % Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Iso E Super 4 % Base Vanilla 1 %, Tonka .5 %, Spruce Oil 2 % Warm Woody

Fir Needle Oil 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 % Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 178

Chypre Fruity # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Coumarin pure 6 Petitgrain Paraguay 3 Heliotropine 28 Iso Nonyl Acetate 10 Benzyl Alcohol .1 Floral Water Rose 1 Rose Crystals .2 Spearmint Oil 7 Vanillin 67 Lemon Oil ( Euro Coumarin Free ) 24 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Verdyl Acetate 41 Iso E Super .1 Cyclovertal 1 Sandalwood Oliffac 25 Verotyl .1 Orcinyl 3 .2 Extrovert High Impact 22 Benzyl Saliyclate 10 Fir Douglas 10 Ionoen Alpha White Coeur 16 Bergamot Oil Substitute 2 Fleuranone 1 Ionone Alpha REfined 4 Ethyl Vanisal 11 Verdyl Propionate 68 Hedione 4 Iso Methyl Cedyl Ketone A 2 Toscanol 1 Jamaica Oil 34 IBCH - Acetate ( Vertenex ) 3 Tangerine Oil Florida 9 Cyclomyral .1 Basil Commores Essence 3 Methyl Octalactone 1 Amyris Oil - Haiti 52 Geraniol Pur 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB 29 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Meranol .4 Meijiff .1 Bulgaflor 11 Rose For Soap Base 5 Nerol 18 Methyl Ionone 3 Trepanol 287 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Iso - Eugenol 27 Tilanol Super .1 Vanillyl Absolute 9 Lilial 1,000 6 Citronellol 7 Floralmelon 35 Linalyl Acetate 27 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Neroli Egypt .1 Aldehyde C 11 - 11 .2 Applinal 10 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 23 Linalol .3 Rose Nitrile

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 179 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Fruity # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Coumarin pure 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Heliotropine 26 Linalol 10 Benzyl Alcohol .3 Rose Nitrile 1 Rose Crystals 6 Petitgrain Paraguay 7 Vanillin 18 Iso Nonyl Acetate 25 ( DEP ) .1 Floral Water Rose 31 Iso E Super .2 Spearmint Oil 1 Sandalwood Oliffac 77 Lemon Oil ( Euro Coumarin Free ) .1 Lichen 9 Verdyl Acetate 22 Benzyl Saliyclate .1 Cyclovertal 10 Ionoen Alpha Refined 22 Verotyl 2 Fleuranone .2 Extrovert High Impact 1 Ethyl Vanisal 10 Fir Douglas 71 Benzyl Acetate 19 Bergamot Oil Substitute 2 Toscanol 1 Ionone 34 IBCH - Acetate ( Vertenex ) 11 Verdyl Propionate 9 Cyclomyral 4 Iso Methyl Cedyl Ketone A 3 Methyl Octalactone 1 Jasilyn 50 Geraniol 60 3 Tangerine Oil Brazil 29 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Basil Commores Essence .4 Laurine 1 Amyris Oil - Haiti 13 Rose For Soap Base 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB 18 Methyl Ionone Gamma 1 Meranol 300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 Bulgaflor 27 Tilanol Super 5 Nerol .1 Vanillyl Absolute 3 Trepanol 9 Lyrame 1 Iso - Eugenol 3 Citronellol 7 Melfloral 38 Linalyl Acetate 1,000 24 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Neroli Egypt .1 Aldehyde C 11 Lenic .2 Perryfix

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 180

Chypre Fruity# 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Coumarin pure 6 Petitgrain Paraguay 3 Heliotropine 28 Vanoris 10 Benzyl Alcohol .1 Rose Orient 2 Rose Crystals .2 Spearmint Oil 7 Vanillin 67 Lemon Oil ( Euro Coumarin Free ) 24 Phthalate (DEP) 9 Verdyl Acetate 40 Methyl Cedryl Ketone A .1 Cyclovertal 3 Sandalwood Oliffac 25 Verotyl .1 Orcinyl 3 .2 Extrovert High Impact 22 Benzyl Saliyclate 10 Fir Douglas 8 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 16 Bergamot Oil Substitute 1 Fleuranone 1 Ionone 4 Ethyl Vanisal 11 Verdyl Propionate 68 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 4 Sandalore 3 Toscanol 1 Florymoss 34 Vertenex 3 Tangerinol 9 Cyclomyral .1 Basil Commores Essence 5 Alicate 1 Amyris Oil - Haiti 52 Geraniol 60 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB 27 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Meranol .4 Meijiff .1 Bulgaflor 9 Rose For Soap Base 5 Nerol 6 Methyl Ionone Gamma 3 Trepanol 306 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Iso - Eugenol 27 Tilanol Super .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 5 Mallow 1,000 6 Citronellol 850 7 Melfloral 37 Linalyl Acetate 27 Jasphene 1 Neroli Egypt .1 Aldehyde C 11 - 11 .2 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate 10 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 21 Linalool .3 Rose Inactive

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 181 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Musk, Animalic Fragrance Chemicals

Abalide Sweet musk similar to tonalid. Ambargris A healing panacea made from large chunks of ambergris only when they are found by fisherman floating on the Atlantic Ocean. A scent so beautiful and popular in Morocco that it inspired John Singer Sargent to paint his famous La Furnee d'Ambergris. Ambergris T Oliffac A substitute for the traditional 3 % tincture of ambergris. Ambrain Labdanum musk. Ambrette Ess. Beurre Lave A delicate sweet musk fragrance. Ambrette C Sweet musk. Ambrette XNM Sweet, but heavy floral musky odor. Ambrettex Musk. Ambrettolide Floral musky sweet odor. Ambrinol Extremely powerful amber with natural somewhat musky. A C A Di Methyl Acetal Peculiar animal green odor. Amyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet musk animal odor. Angelic Root Oil Pleasantly aromatic a mixture of musk. Animalic 9143 Animal. Animalone Musk.

Benzyl Phenyl Acetate Mild sweet honey floral.

Castaulon Warm, intense fatty hairy animal odor. Castorium Hyper Abs. Very powerful warm animal like scent. Cashmeran Diffusive musk. Celestolid Mild, and sweet musky odor. Civet Abs. 394 BF An extremely powerful obnoxious animal like fecal odor. Civet AAB394 Fine substitute of the original absolute. Civet AB422A Excellent reconstitution long lasting. Civet Abs. 394 BF An extremely powerful obnoxious animal like fecal odor. Civet Artificial I.A. Lacks the characteristic softness which is found with powder. Civet Artificial XBS Obnoxiously strong fecal odor. Civet Augaflor 6 Strong, long lasting civet-like specialty, unmistakably animal with a woody background. A good economical reproduction of the

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 182

original and possesses good fixative properties. May be used to advantage in toiletries where the price of the natural material precludes use. Civet Base # 1 A very sweet slightly cloying fecal odor of the abyssinian cat. Civet Concentrate 50 Strong acidic animal, fecal tone invaluable in fine fragrances. Civet Concrete Musky odor extremely diffusive and tenacious. Civet Ethiopia A glandular secretion collected from primarily male cats. In small traces adds a velvety touch to many different fine bouquets. Civet # 3 S - 788 A strong animal odor of the civet cat close to the natural oil. Civet 170 BSA Typical animal sweet musky odor reminiscent of the civet cat. Civet Powder Unquestionably animal fecal odor of the civet cat. Civet Resin Abs. Diffusive animal fecal like odor of the civet cat. Civet Tincture An odor reminiscent of the civet cat, fecal like. Civet 241 Oliffac Strong animal, fecal notes similar to natural civet, sensual. Civettal A liquid form which lacks the softness found with natural powder. Civette Abs. Animal sweet, free from fecal and urine notes. Civette Artifical Abs. Animal sweet. Civette Givco 169 This Givco is a close reconstitution of civet absolute, which it can replace in equal amounts. It does not contain any animal extract. It adds diffusive warmth to fragrances and provides the distinctive effect produced by natural civet in floral-jasmin, amber, oriental, chypre, and tobacco accords. Civette 170 BSA Typical animal sweet odor of the civet cat. Civettone A ketone, active element in Abyssinian civet synthesized. Copaiba Oil Musk, milder sweeter almost creamy balsamic. Cyclo Penta De Canolide Musky somewhat animal.

Di Hydro Ambrettolide Musky sweet odor of good tenacity.

Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Powerful sweet honey like. Ethylene Brassylate Sweet musk warm and powdery. Exaltolide Delicately animal. Exaltex Musk.

Fixolid Sweet wody musky.

Galaxolide 50 Powerful sweet and musky. Geranyl Phenyl Acetate Soft floral honey rose like. Grisalva Ambergris.

Horsey Dis An animal amber complex.

Indoflor Crystals Distinct civet like slightly obnoxious animal odor. Iso Butyl Phenyl Acetate Powerful leafy rosy musky fragrance.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 183 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Labdanum Abs. A sweet herbaceous recalling ambergris, slightly animal.

Methyl Phenyl Acetate Powerful and diffusive honey musk odor. Monofax Musk. Moskene Musky sweet odor. Muscambre 66.130 A musky animal odor. Muscenone Musk. Muscomer Extra 810P An animal musk slightly sweet odor. Muscone Musk. Musk Booster 8-2-3 # DB10253 Musk. Musk C - 14 Musk, sweet. Musk C - 14 Supra Musk, sweet. Musk 144 Sweet musk. Musk Abs. C ' Less An animal musky odor powerful and intense. Musk Alpha A weak animal note, not very sweet. Musk Ambrette Sweet, but yet heavy floral musky odor. Musk Emeressence Sweet musk. Musk Ketone Sweet and very tenacious musky odor. Musk KN Musk. Musk T Musk, sweet. Musk T Supra Musky, fatty. Musk Tibetine Delicately sweet musky, mildly animal like. Musk TM II Sweet tenacious musk like. Muskylein Sweet musk. Musk Xylol Sweet musk tenacious odor rather harsh.

Nepalva Sweet musky odor.

Oxahexalid Sweet tenacious musk with an ambrette note. Oxalide T Sweet, soft extremely animal musky odor. Oxalide T Supra An isomeric sweet musk mixture.

Phantolid Sweet, musky somewhat animal odor. Phenyl Acetic Acid Sweet honey animalic type odor. Phenylal A very sweet honey animal odor. Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor. Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Mild and warm rose honey like odor. Polafix Sweet, woody musky odor. Polaride Sweet and musky odor.

Skatole Powerful sweet warm animal.

Tetralide Musky powdery floral.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 184

Tonalid Sweet woody musky. Tonalix 50 Strong radiant musk. Tonquitone Musk. Traseolide 100 Sweet musk. Triflaige - A Tropical, fruity, floral, musk-like.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 185 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Chypre Floral Animalic

CHYPRE FLORAL ANIMALIC

There are several popular animal notes that are employed in modern perfumery today. Musk was originally obtained from the musk deer native to Asia. In dilution otherwise known as a tincture it has a distinctive animal like note. Civet is a cat native to Ethiopia in Africa. The animal has a gland that produces a sweet urine musk like odor that produces a velvety nuance to many fragrance blends in trace amounts. A third is Ambergris produced by the sperm whale. Often this material gray in color is found washed up on the shores of beaches around the world after being vomited by the whale. A pound of this material can bring a King's ransom. Today most of the musk like animal materials are produced synthetically. Fine representations of this group include Galaxolide 50, Ethylene Brassylate including Cashmeran, and Nepalva. Materials that include Phenyl produce a musk like honey fragrance.

Top Bergamot 6 %

Lime 2 %, Cassis 1 %, Green Notes .5 %, Pineapple - Trace Fruity

Apple - Trace, Pear - Trace

Middle Jasmin 7 %,

Rose 15 %, Violet 7 %, Muguet 6.5 % Floral

Tuberose - Trace Base Musk 18 %

Sandalwood 2 %, Vanilla 1 %, Moss - Trace Warm

Tonka 1 % Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 26 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 186

Chypre Floral Animalic # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Sandela 1 Breu 1 Moss Oliffac 3 Stemone 123 Galaxolide 50 19 Linalol Pur FT 8 Benzilique Alcool 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 1 Ambre 140 1 Bergaleaves 38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 10 Vert de Cassis Givco 180 1 Ambergris .1 Folione 32 Benzyl Salicylate 17 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 37 Traseolide 6 Di Ethyl Malonate 2 Cedraclaire 3 Cassis 11 Amyl Salicylate 2 Pearlate 4 Massada 38 Linalyl Acetate 3 Cashmeran .1 Rose Oil Bulgaria .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 4 Applinal 1 Iso Rose 3 Menthanyl Acetate 11 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 2 Pearalate 72 Acetate De Benzila 4 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 6 Vanilline .1 Leaf Acetal 18 Methyl Ionone Gamma 3 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate 103 Geraniol 5 Myraldyl Acetate 2 Iso Amyl Geranate .1 Orange Essence Oil 46 Muguet Base 2 Galbex 183 3 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Grapefruit Essence 5 Citronellol 1 Amyris Oil W.I. 267 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 19 Rose For Soap Base 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 p - Cresyl Acetate .3 Mugone S 207M .1 Alcohol C - 8 24 Bergamot Oil Substitute 4 Styrallyl Acetate 3 Top Galbanum 18.326 1 Musk Emeressence 11 Dimetol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 187 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Floral Animalic 3 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Alcool Benzilico 11 Amyl Salicylate 6 Cedrenyl Acetate 22 Linalool Pur 125 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Rose Turkish Abs. 9 Vanillin 7 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate .1 Civet 3 Verdox 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Santalol 1 Oakmoss Givco .1 Alcohol C - 9 9 Levosandal 1 Moon Drops - Givaudan 1 Adoxal 3 Styrallyl Acetate 6 Macrolide 9 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 14 Rose Substitute 38 Linalyl Acetate 9 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 3 Perryfix 77 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 15 Dimetol 6 Ethyl Vanisal 4 Phenyl Hexanol 5 Top Muguet 18.326 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Salicylate .1 Exaltolide 2 Pearlate 4 Petunal 2 Cyclamen Aldehyde 9 Ionone Alpha 1 Cassis Givco 16 Rose Centifolia Base .3 Raspberry Leaves - IFF 4 Iso Eugenol Acetate 1 Jasmonyl Acetate 7 Citronellol 1 Irisone Pure 15 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Tuberose Oliffac 8 Lilial .3 Reseda Acetal 63 Muguet Base 289 Di Propylene Glycol 14 Ionone For Soap 1,000 94 Geraniol 3 Lavender - Turkey 2 Bois Ambrene Forte 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 a - Ionone Extra 9 Lime Oil # 96 3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Bergamot Oil Ivory Coast 4 Verotyl

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 188

Chypre Floral Animalic # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Vanilla Tincture 80 % 1 Tangerine Green Oil 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Myraldyl Acetate 9 Benzyl Alcohol 1 Bergamot Calabrin Essence 22 Sandalwood Oil Australia .3 cis - 3 - Hexenyle Salicylate 173 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Muguet Alcohol .1 Moss Oliffac .3 Aldeido C - 11 Lenico 9 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 5 Lime Oil, C/P & Folded 1 Benzophenone .1 Nonadienal 64 Acetate De Benzila 4 Pivane 22 1 Iso Jasmone 1 Bourgeons De Cassis 3 Hydroxycitronellal Sub AB 2040 3 Styrallyl Acetate 1 Damascenone Alpha 3 Lioral 4 Para Cresyl redistilled 6 Menthanyl Acetate 11 Salicylate Amila 3 Verdox 8 Kephalis 1 Cetylia Base T 6 Hawthorn 1 Iralia 3 Ionone 19 Linalool 10 Hydroxycitronellal 5 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 7 Ionone Alpha Refined 3 Vert De Cassis Givco 180 2 Peach Oliffac 1 Nerol Coeur 14 Jasmin Province Base 2 Cyclamen Aldehyde 3 Citronellol 750 11 Dimetol .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1 Farnesol 1 Methyl Benzoate 10 Lyral 9 Iris Beurre Oil 1,000 105 Geraniol Coeur 301 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 14 Phenyl Ethyl ALcohol .1 Exaltolide 53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Alcohol C - 10 11 Tuberose Substitute 4 DMBC - Acetate 27 Linalyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 189 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE FLORAL ANIMALIC

Top Bergamot 6 % - Fruity

Lemon 2 %, Pineapple .5 %, Basil .5 % Fruity

Violet Notes, Jasmin, Nutmeg .25 %

Middle Jasmin 8 %

Iso E Super 2 % Muguet 5 %, Violet 5 %, Geranium 1 % Floral Vetivert 1 % Florhydral 1 % Ylang Ylang 1 %, Rose 5 %, Lavender .5 % Cinnamic Alcohol 1 % Musk 20 % Base Sandalwood 3 %, Vanilla .5 %, Galbanum .5 %

Tonka .5 %, Amber - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 190

Chypre Floral Animalic # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

23 Iso E Super .1 Parmavert 28 Sandalwood Extender 4 Nutmeg Oil 137 Galaxolide Artessence 7 Iso Raldeine 1 Moss Oliffac .1 Nonadienal 3 Vanillin .1 Orange Aldehyde 50 % 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate .1 Civettal 29 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 43 Etilen Brasilate 1 Geranium Oil Moroccan 9 Brahmanol 37 Linalyl Acetate 11 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Bourgenal 1 Amber Substitute .1 Rose Otto 6 Muskylein 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 9 Alcool Cinamico .1 Exaltolide 72 Benzyl Acetate 1 Citronellyl Acetate 16 Vetiver Extender 27 Lemon Oil, Italian 1 Phyllos 1 Bonorax 5 Lyral .1 Bitter Orange Sicily Essence 2 Ethyl Vanisal 3 Glycoflor 4 Hysimal .1 Tuberose Oliffac 3 Citronellol 2 Cetylia Base T 24 Di Hyrdro Iso Jasmone 4 Cepionate 4 Florhydral .1 Nerol 6 Lavender 40/52 48 Geraniol 60 4 Muguet Augaflor 16 1,000 305 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 6 Koavonne 17 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1 Apple Blossom .1 Iris Abs. 3 Geranyl Acetate 1 Everlasting Oil - France 5 Velvione 28 Linalol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 191 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Floral Animalic # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

19 Sandela 4 Lavender Oil French 183 Galaxolide Artessence 6 Verdyl Acetate 4 Vanillin 24 Linalol 18 Iso E Super .1 2, 6 Nonadien 5 Velvione 6 Orange Blood Oil Sicilian .1 Vetimoss 7 Applinal 23 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Nerol 9 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Geranyl Phenyl Acetate 4 Eugenol 24 Lemon Oil Washed 11 Muskylein 3 Verdyl Propionate 8 Alcool Cinamico 1 Rose Orient 1 Ethyl Vanillin 38 Linalyl Acetate S96 86 Super Cepionate 3 Farnesyl Acetate 19 Vetiver Extender 6 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 7 Alpha Ionone 1 Petilyn 3 Rose Givco 217 .1 Hydroxycitornellaldimethylacetal 7 Florhydral 1 Florosia 6 Polarsan .1 Leaf Acetal 7 Methyl Lavender Ketone 1 Sandalwood Oliffac 9 Citronellol 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic .2 Elintaal Forte 3 Musk Emeressence 4 Iso Amyl Geranate 1,000 48 Laurine 6 Geranium Oil Egypt 45 Geraniol 970 .1 Iris Tincture 285 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 9 Iso Raldeine 70 4 Nutmeg Oil Indonesia .1 2 - Undecenal 3 Florymoss 12 Rose For Soap Base .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 3 Stemone

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 192

Chypre Floral Animalic # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

22 Iso & Super .1 Cassis Abs. 6 Benzophenone 3 Nutmeg India 3 Vanalina Rhovanil 1 CIS - 3 - Hexenyl Acetate 165 Musk Gx 50 % in BB 48 Muguet Base 5 Galbanum Resinoid 1 Sauge Sclarce 4 Coumane 3 Citronellyl Acetate 85 % 33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Rose Acetate 1 Amber Base 4 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Ethyl Vanillin 6 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 4 Givescone 3 Verdyl Acetate 81 Benzyl Acetate FFC 1 Styrallyl Alcohol 9 Ionona Alfa .3 Ylang Ylang 3 6 Lilial .1 Undecavertol 15 Methyl Ionone Alpha 1 Roseate 27 Ethylene Brassylate .1 y - Irone 5 Iris Givco 204/2 24 Lemon Oil - Washed 7 Citronellol 3 Verdyl Propionate 3 Jasmonyl LG 1 Sweet Pea 6 Elintaal Forte .1 Methyl Tuberate 21 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1 Styrax Oil - Turkey 6 Alcool Cinamico 1 Eugenyl Acetate 53 Geraniol 98 5 Methyl Lavender Ketone .1 Exaltolide 1,000 334 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 19 Tuberose Substitute 1 Iridales 4 Cetone Alpha 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Merion 33 Sandalwood Extender 5 Vetivery Acetate, Bourbon 1 Neroli Augaflor 15 .1 Violet Methyl Carbonate .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 193 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Chypre Green

CHYPRE GREEN

Top Bergamot 3 % - Fruity

Pineapple 1 %, Violet Notes, Cassis 1 % Floral Green

Green Notes, Peach 2 %

Middle Argumen 1 %

Muguet 10 %, Lilac 3 %, Jasmin 7 % Floral

Violet 3 %, Rose 5 %, Carnation 1 %, Hawthorn 1 %

Base Iso E Super 9 %

Sandalwood 1 %, Musk 3 %, Vanilla 1 % Woody

Moss - Trace Cutters

Benzyl Alccohol 2 % Benzyl Benzoate 2 % Benzyl Salicylate 4 % Hercolyn - D 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 194

Chypre Green # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Galbanum Coeur 6 Tangerinol 11 Alcool Benzilico 3 Jasmonyl Acetate 9 Santela 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 103 Iso E Super 4 Acetato Styralyle 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Undecatriene 7 Vanillin 3 Stemone 12 Benzyl Benzoato .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 3 Heliotropine 13 Bergamot Oil Substitute 1 Patchouli Oil 9 Linalool Synthetic FCC 14 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 44 MDJ 10 Aldeido C - 14 10 Argumen Aldehyde 7 Peacharoma Base 9 Eugenol 100 1 Cyclal - C 102 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Poirinate 4 Neo Galbanum Oil N 1 Tuberose Oliffac 11 Anisaldehyde PQ 1 Neroli Artessence 8 Citronellol .1 Galbanum Essence 4 Vanillinethyl 4 Muguet Alcohol 29 Terpineolprime 3 Cassis Fragrance 7 Rose For Soap Base 1 Geranyl Acetate 5 Methyl Ionone Gamma .1 Vanillyl Alcohol .1 Alcool C - 9 1 Cyclamen Aldehyde 22 Iraldeine Standard Substitute 1 Peomosa 1 Methyl Benzoate 5 Green Base Augaflor 10 4 Citronellol 3 Petilyn 6 Lyral .4 Melon Org 1 Iso Jasmone 4 Narcisse 2573 - RI - 4 325 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 23 Linalyl Acetate 42 Geraniol 1 Boisnal 33 Ethylene Brassylate 1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 195 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Green # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Vanillin 5 Cassia Fragrance 21 Alcool Benzila .1 Ylang Eco Essence 2 Balsam Peru Oil 24 Linalyl Acetate .1 Mousse Essence Abs. 3 Meijiff 54 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Bergamot Oil Substitute 15 Javanol 12 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 6 Patchouli Oil China 8 Ionone Alpha Refined 12 Benzyl Benzoate 1 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate 3 Cedryl Acetate 17 Peach Pure 93 Iso E Super 10 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 38 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Ribes Nigrum ( Black Currant ) 19 Kephalis .1 Nonadienal 27 Galaxolide Artessence 2 Aldehyde C - 12 Pear 4 Osyrol 3 Styrallylacetate 19 Aubepine 5 Iso Amyl Geranate 13 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso 8 Lavender Oil 40/42 4 Nerol 10 Sanjinol .1 Methyl Tuberate 1 3 - Octyl Acetate 3 y - Irone .1 Cyclrose 1 Damascenia 185 SA 3 Rosone .1 Leaf Alcohol 37 Lilial 3 Myraldyl Acetate 21 Carnation Base 5 Citronellol 3 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 1,000 .1 Alcohol C - 8 9 Hidroxicitronelal 324 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 Acetate De Benzyle 2 Iris Beurre Oil 43 Hercolyn - D 24 Liral 49 Geraniol 8 Linalol 3 Anapear - Givaudan 7 Lavender Citrus Base .1 Geranium Egypt Essence

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 196

Chypre Green # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate 9 Linalool ex Citrata 8 Helional 14 Aldehyde C - 14 104 Iso & Super 4 y - Irone 8 Cinnamic Alcohol .1 Rose Turque .1 Lichen 2 Scennal 9 Sandela 3 Vetyver Java 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Acetate De Geranyle 7 Vanillin .1 Tuberose Oliffac 1 Amyris Haiti 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 34 Salicylate D’Benzyle .2 Oxanone 9 Alpha - Ionone 9 Peach Blossom FM - 1042 1 Holy Basil Oil 4 Bourgenal 21 Gardenia Base 1 Vanilla Bean Clair 14 Methyl Jasmonate pure .1 Rose Oxide L 3 Javanol .1 Nonadienal 13 Aubepine ( ANisic Aldehyde ) 1 White Rose 1 Rosone .3 Leaf Alcohol 19 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 3 Florymoss 10 Eugenol 1 Friastone 2 Garcenia 75 % 1 Rose Acetate 9 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 25 Linalyl Acetate 28 Terpineol Prime 3 Bergamot Calabrian Gr. 3 6 Citronellol 950 .1 Genet Abs. - Italy 4 Hydrofix L 4 Vernol 1 Sandalore .1 Alcohol C - 09 5 Myraldyl Acetate 2 Sandal, India 1 Iso Rose 339 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 44 Geraniol 1,000 7 Eugenol, Iso 22 Hercolyn - D 105 Muguet Base 6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Anapear - Givaudan 2 Cassis Fragrance

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 197 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE GREEN

Top Green Notes 1 %

Cassis 1 %, Pear 2 %, Bregamot 4 % - Fruity Fresh Green

Pineapple 1 %, Grapefruit .5 %, Basil .5 %

Middle Muguet 11 %

Lily 3 %, Hyacinth 1 %, Rose 7 % Floral

Violet 5 %, Jasmin 3 %, Hawthorn 1.5 % Base Galbanum 2 %

Sandalwood 5 %, Oakmoss - Trace, Tonka 2 % Warm

Civet - Trace, Vanilla .5 %, Patchouli 1 % Cutters Benzyl Alcohol 2 % Benzyl Salicylate 3 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 198

Chypre Green # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Vanillin 3 Vert de Cassis Givco 180 22 Alcool Benzila 1 Meranol 3 Amyris Oil W.I. 3 Lime Distilled Peruvian 11 Patchouli Chinese .1 Aldehye C - 11 Lenic 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate .1 Civet Tincture .4 Iridales 23 Helional 7 Grapefruit Oil - West Indian 29 Salicylate De Benzyle 1 3 - Octyl Acetate 1 Mousse De Chenne 14 Linalool 24 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 2 Irisone Pure 8 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Geranyl Acetone 11 Cetonal V 1 Bourgeon D’Avana 14 Lavande - Matherone 5 Tangerine Oil Calif. - US 9 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 8 Gardenia Base 5 Sandalore 6 Nerol .1 Vanilla Abs. 100 % 23 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate 6 Methyl Cedryl Ketone Coeur 7 Verdyl Propionate 3 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Geraniol 600 10 Para Cresyl redistilled 4 Bergamot Italian FCC 14 Citronellol 6 Cassis Fragrance 103 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Aldehyde C - 19 1 Alpha Damascone 3 Petilyn .1 Alcool C - 8 4 Verdyl Acetate 5 Pine Seed Oil .1 Ionone 22 Hawthorn 5 Myraldyl Acetate 69 Geraniol 970 238 Di Propylene Glycol 1 Rosewood Texas Rectified 1,000 19 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 5 Hyacinth Body 48 Sandalwood Extender 6 Styrallylacetate 3 Galbanodor 2 Florymoss 3 Aldehyde Cyclo Hexyl Propionate 1 Sweet Basil Oil

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 199 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Green # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Vanillin 3 Aldehyde Cyclo Hexyl Propionate 22 Alcool Benzila 1 Sweet Basil Oil 3 Sandalore 3 Vert de Cassis Givco 180 11 Patchouli Oil MD 1 Meranol 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Lime Distilled Peruvian .1 Civet Tincture .1 Aldehye C - 11 Lenic 21 Di Hydro Coumarex 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 31 Salicylate De Benzyle .4 Iridales 1 Mousse De Chenne 5 Grapefruit Oil - West Indian 26 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 3 - Octyl Acetate 6 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 16 Linalool 11 Cetonal V 1 Irisone Pure 14 Lavande - Matherone 3 Geranyl Acetone 9 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 1 Bourgeon D’Avana 5 Sandalore 5 Tangerine Oil California .1 Vanilla Abs. 100 % 10 Gardenia Base 2 Methyl Cedryl Ketone Coeur 4 Nerol 3 Ethyl Vanisal 24 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate 10 Para Cresyl redistilled 7 Verdyl Propionate 7 Citronellol .1 Meranol 114 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 8 Bergamot Italian 1 Damascenia 185 SA 6 Cassis Fragrance .1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Aldehyde C - 19 5 Fir Needle Oil Canadian 3 Petilyn 22 Hawthorn 4 Verdyl Acetate 69 Geraniol 970 .1 Ionone 258 Di Propylene Glycol 1 Myraldyl Acetate 1 Rosewood Texas Rectified 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Hyacinth Body 1,000 41 Sandalwood Extender 5 Styrallylacetate 1 Galbanodor 1 Florymoss

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 200

Chypre Green # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Vanillin 3 Vert de Cassis Givco 180 10 Benzyl Alcohol FR 1 Rose Acetate 3 Amyris Oil W.I. 1 Lime Oil 410 9 Patchouli Chinese .1 Aldehye C - 11 Lenic 47 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate .1 Civet Tincture .4 Iridales 23 Helional 7 Grapefruit Oil - West Indian 22 Salicylate De Benzyle 2 3 - Octyl Acetate 1 Mousse De Chenne 15 Linalool 34 Hedione 2 Irisone Pure 8 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Geranyl Acetone 9 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Bourgeon D’Avana 15 Lavender Oil - French 5 Tangerinol 10 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 8 Gardenia Base 5 Indisan 2 Nerol Petals .1 Vanilla Abs. C’Less MD 27 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate 6 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 9 Verdyl Propionate 3 Ethyl Vanillin .1 Geraniol 600 5 Para Cresyl redistilled 2 Bergamot Italian FCC 11 Citronellol 850 6 Cassis Fragrance 121 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Aldehyde C - 19 1 Beta Damascone 3 Petilyn .1 Alcool C - 8 4 Verdyl Acetate 1 Pine Seed Oil .1 Ionone 19 Aubepine 5 Myraldyl Acetate 57 Geraniol 970 265 Di Propylene Glycol 1 Rosewood Texas Rectified 1,000 11 Phenyle Ethyl Alcohol 5 Hyacinth Body 48 Sandalwood Extender 6 Styrallylacetate 3 Galbanodor 2 Berryflor 3 Aldehyde Cyclo Hexyl Propionate 1 Sweet Basil Oil

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 201 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE GREEN

Top Lime 2 %

Undecavertol - Trace Apple 6 %, Bergamot 9 %, Green Notes 1 % Fresh Green Pharanone 10 % - Trace Florhydral - Trace Pear .5 %, Raspberry - Trace

Middle Rose 9 %

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 % Muguet 7 %, Jasmin 2 %, Violet 3 % Floral Peonile 1.5 % Hexyl Aceate 2 % Narcissus - Trace, Osmanthus 1 %

Base Spiro Galbanone 1 %

Musk 8 %, Tonka 1.5 %, Civet - Trace Balsamic

Ambrettolide - Trace, Sandalwood 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 202

Chypre Green # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Spirogalbanone 5 Top Muguet 18.326 14 Cou Marin .1 Alcohol C - 8 1 Mousse De Chenne 8 Alicate 1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 2 Pharone 10 % 53 Galaxolide Artessence 33 Verdox 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Aldeido Ciclamen .1 Civet Ethopia .1 Methyl Tuberate 11 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 21 Apple Juice Givco 22 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 5 Bourgenal 4 Cedraclaire 1 Vanillyl Alcohol 3 Sandela 3 Muguet Aldehyde 10 Galbanum Reunion 12 Dimetol 19 Sandalwood Extender 4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 1 Rosone 2 Osmanthus 38 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Vern Aldehyde 25 Zeppin 5 Geranyl Acetate 76 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 9 Raspberry Ketone 14 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 11 Lime Oil # 96 2 Anthamber Premium 4 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate 15 Citronellol 750 2 Bourgenal 10 Florymoss 5 Myraldyl Acetate 1 Delta Damascone 8 Manzanate 87 Geraniol 60 1 Soft Skin Accord - IFF 4 Lilie 14 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Koavonne 1,000 367 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Gardionolene 8 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 10 Gardenia Base .1 Undecavertol 3 Orange Oil Sweet .3 Aldehyde C - 8 19 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl - Acetate 3 Styralyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 203 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Green # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Spirogalbanone 8 Top Muguet 18.326 9 Alicate .1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Mousse De Chenne 8 Hexyle Acetate 1 Mberwood 2 Pharone 10 % 73 Galaxolide Artessence 48 Verdox 37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Aldeido Ciclamen .1 Civet Powder # 1A .1 Methyl Tuberate 11 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 15 Apple Oliffac 22 Benzyle Salicylate 2 Bois Ambrene Forte 4 Florhydral 1 Vanillyl Alcohol 3 Bacdanol 3 Muguet Aldehyde 8 Galbanum Reunion 11 Dimetol 26 Sandalwood Extender 4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 1 Rose Crystals 2 Hedione 41 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Vern Aldehyde 29 Super Cepionate 7 Geranyl Acetate 76 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 9 Oxanone 20 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 11 Lime Oil # 96 2 Anthamber Premium 4 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate 11 Citronellol 2 Bourgenal 4 Berryflor 5 Myraldyl Acetate 1 Alpha Damascone 1 Manzanate 83 Geraniol 1 Cashmeran 4 P - Cresyl Acetate 17 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Kephalis 1,000 349 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 Gardenia Fleuriff 8 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 11 Gardenia Base .1 Undecavertol 3 Bitter Orange .3 Aldehyde C - 8 19 DMBC - Acetate 3 Styralyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 204

Chypre Green # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Top Galbanum .1 Alcohol C - 8 16 Coumane 8 Hexyle Acetate 1 Mousse De Chenne 2 Pharone 10 % 1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 43 Verdox 63 Galaxolide 50 3 Aldeido Ciclamen 40 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Methyl Tuberate .1 Civet Tincture 14 Apple Juice Givco 11 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 5 Vert De Cassis Givco 22 Benzyl Salicylate IFF 1 Vanillyl Alcohol 4 Florhydral 3 Muguet Aldehyde 3 Bacdanol 9 Dimetol 10 Galbanum Reunion 4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 19 Sandalwood Extender 2 Osmanthus 1 Rose Crystals 1 Vern Aldehyde 41 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Geranyl Acetate 29 Zeppin 9 Oxanone 85 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 11 Lime Oil # 96 9 alpha - Ionone 4 Di Ethyl Malonate 2 Anthamber Premium 2 Bourgenal 16 Citronellol 5 Myraldyl Acetate 16 Peonile 8 Applinal 1 Damascenia 1 Soft Skin Accord - IFF 73 Geraniol 4 P - Cresyl Acetate 17 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000 5 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 341 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 Gardionolene 14 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 11 Gardenia Base .1 Undecavertol 3 Bitter Orange .3 Aldehyde C - 8 19 Jasmin Egypt 3 Styrallyl Acetate 5 Top Muguet 18.326

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 205 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floriental

FLORIENTAL

A Floriental is a new family of fine fragrances. The heart of the composition is based on a floral arrangement with a slight emphasis on oriental notes. Whether this fragrance should be classified in the floral family of fragrances or the oriental is open for debate. I decided to place it before the oriental family since the spice notes will predominate most arrangements.

Top Peach 1 %

Strawberry 1 %, Bergamot 7 %, Orange 5 % Fruity Sweet

Lemon 3 %, Tangerine 1 %, Apple - Trace, Basil 1 %

Middle Rose 6 %

Carnation 4 %, Jasmin 5 %, Violet 3 % Floral Spicy

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 % Muguet 3 %, Lilac 1 %

Opoponax 1 % Base Myrrh .5 %, Benzoin .5 %, Tonka 5 % Warm Spicy

Musk 3 %, Sandalwood 1.5 %,

Bacdanol 1 %, Vanilla .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 2 % Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 206

Floriental # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

19 Benzoato Benzila 4 Dianthanol 4 Heliotropine 1 Florymoss 16 Alicate 8 Strawberry Oliffac 13 Sandela .1 Myrrh Essence 4 Myrh Resinoid Washed 3 Verdyl Acetate 40 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 11 Opoponax Resinoid .1 Violet Absolute 12 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 1 Meranol 25 Galaxolide 1 Nutmeg Oil - Sri. Lanka 33 Coumarin Pure 35 Linalyl Acetate Pure 98 % 5 Bacdanol 2 Methyl Chavicole 4 Vanillin 5 Verdox 9 alpha - Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Celeri Oil 3 Muscomer 1151 P 1 Suderal LT 26 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Nectaryl 18 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Osyrol 35 Eugenol .1 Geranyl Acetate 57 Benzyle Acetate 9 Tangerinol 6 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Jasmonyl Acetate 23 Ionone Alpha 27 Lemon Oil, Washed 5 Osyrol 14 Carnation Base 3 Vanillinethyl 1,000 6 Citronellol 11 Lindenol 4 Kephalis 335 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Verdantiol 47 Geraniol 5 Myraldyl Acetate 3 Terpinyl Acetate 6 Syringa 25 Linalol 9 Hexyl Salicylate 3 Cinnamon Leaf Oil 7 Phenylethylalcohol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 207 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floriental # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

48 Coumarin Substitute 1 Ylang Ylang “Third” 5 Myrrh Resinoid Washed 14 Irisone Pure 17 Sandela T Neat 31 Lemon Oil Arizona C.P. 9 Benzyl Benzoate 1 CIS Jasmone 9 Opoponax Base 11 Methyl Lavender Ketone 24 Ethylene Brassylate 55 Orange Oil Guinea C.P. 43 Phthalate D’Ethyle 7 Aldehyde C - 16 8 Benzoin Resinoid Synthetic 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 1 Styrax Coeur 3 Verdox 9 Benzyl Salicylate 14 Pine Maritime Oil - France 3 Carvi 3 Carnation Augaflor 41 13 Iso Eugenol Replacement 2 Perryfix 9 Vanillin 24 Linalol 65 Claigeon 1 Cassia Oil B & F 5 Kephalis 4 Tonkarinol 1 Rose Crystals 13 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 17 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 9 Terpinyl Acetate 4 Lilial 6 Clove Oil rectified 7 Citronellol .1 Tonka Beans Abs. 3 Bisabolene 3 Raspberry Ketone 19 Cinnimique Aldehyde natural 7 Hidroxi Citronelal 4 Sandalore 1 Thyme Wild Oil 11 Iso - Eugenol 3 Acetate De Vetiver Coeur 63 Geraniol 9 Terpineol Prime 314 Di Propileno Glico 1000 5 Hydrofix L .1 Rose Oxide ( Inactive ) 22 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 14 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Celery India .1 Tea Essence 34 Carnation Base 1 Phytol 39 Linalyl Acetate Pure

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 208

Floriental # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 5 Citrus Bergamia 23 Benzoato Benzila 1 Safraleine 38 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 10 Aldehyde C - 14 41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 29 Linalool 12 Benzoin Siam Resinoid .1 Alcohol C - 8 9 Musk 781 53 Orange Navel Cold Pressed 10 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate 1 Moss Oliffac .1 Styrallyl Propionate 3 Vanillin 3 Piperonal 9 Opoponax Resinoid 50 % / DPG 4 Verdyl Acetate 12 Sandela 3 Clove Leaf Oil rect., min 85 % 19 Sandalwood Oil Australian 41 Linalyl Acetate 1 Benteine 5 Hydrofix R 16 Aldeido Cinamico Amil 7 Pine Tree Std. 35 Carnation Base 6 Di Ethyl Malonate 4 Eugenol 3 Tangerine Oil - Syria 3 Caraway Oil 7 Peach Oliffac 63 Super Cepionate 2 Myraldyl Acetate 3 Iritone 37 Lemon - Iran 7 Citronellol 750 .1 Rose Oil Templar 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 3 Nutmeg Indonesian 12 Lilac Base 1 Sweet Pea 1 Thymol Crystals 44 Geraniol 60 10 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000 318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 Musc 50 % DPG 1 Rosone 6 Verdyl Propionate 5 Pepperwood 34 Muguet Base .1 Ionone 4 Carnaline 3 Methyl Chavicole .2 Aldehyde C 11 ( Undecylinque ) 17 Acetate De Terpinyle

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 209 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Oriental Sweet

ORIENTAL SWEET

Top Bergamot 9 % - Dry

Green Notes .5 %, Jasmin 2 %, Orange 1 % Fruity Sweet

Ylang Ylang 1 %, Peach 3 %, Vetiver Acetate .5 %

Middle Muguet 4 %

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 % Jasmin 4 %, Carnation 5 %, Rose 6 % Floral

Violet 1 %

Base Vanilla 1.5 %

Sandalwood 2 %, Musk 2 %, Patchouli 1 % Balsamic

Tonka 1 %, Vetiver 4 %, Bacdanol 1 %

Resin Benzoin 1, Moss - Trace, Earth Note - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 7 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 210

Oriental Sweet # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Bacdanol .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 10 Benzoato Benzila 8 DMBC - Acetate 7 Vanisal 54 Linalol 22 Sandalwood Extender 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 5 Benteine 4 Vetiver Acetate 1 Oakmoss Givco 10 Orange Oil of Florida 68 Salicylate De Benzyle 29 Linalyl Acetate 13 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid 28 Peach Pure 5 Ethyl, Vanillin .1 Folione 7 Patchouli Light .2 Alcohol C - 10 1 Sandalwood Oil East Indian 1 Undecatriene 1 Earth 4 Nectaryl 35 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 27 Aldeido C - 14 42 Vetiver Extender 3 Vertoyl 39 Benzyle Acetate 1 Orange Aldehyde 3 Vanilla Resinoid 2 Petilyn 2 Cedrenyl Acetate 1 Sandalore 9 Di Hydro Coumarex 1 Bourgenal 1 Serenolide 1 Fleuroxene 37 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Phixia 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol 3 Ciclamen Aldeido 8 Citronellol 4 Laurine Extra 319 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 1 Iris Beurre Oil 52 Geraniol 3 Koavone 1 Meijiff 35 Carnation Base 6 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 5 Irisone Pure 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Acetate De Styrallyle 1 Meranol 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF 1 Tuberose Oliffac

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 211 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Oriental Sweet # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Vanilla 3 Raspberry Leaves - IFF 11 Benzoato Benzila 6 Vetiver Oil Haitian 1 Rose Crystals 2 Styrallyl Acetate 10 Coumarin 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 24 Bergamit Oil Substitute 22 Sandalwood Substitute 3 Cetonal 4 Woodynol - II 5 Vetiver Acetate 63 Salicylate D’ Benzyl .1 Alcool C - 9 11 Patchouli Oil, Indonesian, Light 4 Sandela 9 Benteine 2 Meijiff 23 Galaxolide 50 3 Ciclamen Aldehyde 38 Eugenol 2 Muguet Alcohol 31 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 25 Peach Aroma Base 5 Javanol 5 Sandalwood Oliffac 6 Ethyl Vanisal 1 Meranol 9 Laurine Extra 1 Undecatriene 3 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Rose Otto Augaflor 35 Vetiver Extender .1 Petilyn 6 Citronellol 850 .1 Neroli Blossom Water 7 Ionone, beta 1 Orange Naval Cold Pressed 43 Cepionate 9 Peach Pure - Givaudan 58 Geraniol 97 % 3 Bergamot C.P. Guina 4 Cedraclaire .1 Violet Leaves 47 Iso Eugenol Substitute 4 Fir Needle Canadian 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 5 Iraldeine Standard 317 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 .1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 4 Nerol 2 Bisabolene 11 Resin Benzoin 38 Muguet Base .1 Moss Oliffac .1 Rosenol synthetic .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic .1 Styrax Mix - Oil

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 212

Oriental Sweet # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Helional 4 Laurine 8 Vanillin 3 Caryophyllene Acetate 3 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Methyl Cinnimate 12 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Thyme Inco 20 28 Galaxolide 50 9 Terpinyl Acetate 22 Sandalwood Extender 4 Cassia 39 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 17 Orange Oil Guinea 8 Patchouli Indonesia 5 Zinergone 4 Cinnamon Bark Sri Lanka 40 % 1 Florymoss 73 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 29 Linalyl Acetate 1 Earth 13 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 26 Hydroxycitronellal A 4 Vetiver Acetate 32 Hexil Cinamic Aldeido 3 Clove Bud Oil 1 Amber Core 32 Peach Pure - Givaudan 4 Vanillin, ethyl 7 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 8 alpha - Methyl Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Black Agar Givco 215 43 MDJ 6 Peach Aroma Base 9 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 12 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 13 Lilial 1 Pepperwood 6 Cironellol 3 Bay Leaves Oil Anise 1 Fixateur 404 .1 Rose Oxide - ( Z ) 48 Carnation Base 1 Spicy Carbonate .2 Melaleuca Altrni Folia 1 Persil Feuilles 35 Geraniol 3 Cyclamen Aldehyde 1 Pepper ( Jalapeno ) 308 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 11 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1,000 8 Methyl Ionone Beta 17 Eugenol 4 Koavonne 47 Linalol S 97 2 Styrallyl Acetate .1 Tomato Leaves 1 CIS Jasmone .1 Sandalwood Essence .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso 1 Acalea II

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 213 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Oriental Spicy

ORIENTAL SPICY

Top Green Notes .5 %

Jasmin 2 %, Bergamot 9 % - Dry, Orange 2 %, Ylang Ylang 1 % Fruity Sweet

Peach 3 %, Apple .5 %, Neroli .5 %, Pear .25 %, Vetiver Acetate .5 %

Middle Violet 2 %

Jasmin 7 %, Carnation 4 %, Rose 5 % Floral

Muguet 5 %

Base Vanilla 2 %

Sandalwood 2 %, Musk 3 %, Patchouli 1 %, Tonka 1 % Balsamic

Vetiver 3 %, Earth - Trace, Bacdanol 1 %, Resin Benzoin 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 2 % Benzyl Salicylate 7 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 214

Oriental Sweet # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Vanisal 1 Undecatriene 10 Osyrol 14 Peach Pure - Givaudan 22 Benzoato Benzila 43 Linalool Synthetic FCC .1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 4 Jamsonyl Acetate 10 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG 1 Celery Seed Oil - India 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Floralol 9 Javanol 2 Cyclamen Aldehyde 8 Vertofix Coeur 12 Peach Pure 67 Benzylsalicylate 5 Vetiver Acetate 5 Methyl Jasmonate .3 Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant 4 Florhydral 24 Orange Oil of California 2 Methyl Benzoate .1 Alcohol C - 9 31 Super Cepionate .1 Ylang # 1 28 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido 1 Bourgenal 24 Vetiver Extender 1 Geranium Over Roses 7 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Rose Acetate 8 Benteine 9 Cinnamon - Chinese 4 Farnesol Oil 58 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 3 Irone V 4 Melfloral 6 Cinnamic Alcohol 3 Neryl Acetate 4 Meijiff 2 Stemone 5 Verdantiol 1 Pepper Black India Essence 43 Carnation Base .1 Alcohol C - 10 3 Dianthanol 9 Orange Oils, Dark 323 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Anisyl Alcohol 6 Sandalwood Mysore 37 Geraniol 4 Laurine 8 Rose For Soap Base 4 Kephalis 1,000 3 Phixia 48 Muguet Base 8 Citronellol 7 Phenylethylalcohol 3 Styrallylacetate .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 1 Caraway

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 215 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Oriental Sweet # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Vanisal 1 Undecatriene 8 Sandela 14 Peach Pure - Givaudan 22 Benzoato Benzila 43 Linalool Synthetic FCC .1 Earth 4 Jamsonyl Acetate 10 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG 1 Celery Seed Oil - India 38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Floralol 9 Javanol 2 Ciclamen Aldeido 8 Vertofix 12 Peach Blossom FM - 1042 69 Benzylsalicylate 5 Verdantiol 5 Methyl Jasmonate .3 Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant 4 Pescheux 34 Orange Oil Sweet 2 Methyl Benzoate .1 Alcohol C - 9 21 Hedione High Cis .1 Ylang # 3 28 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido 1 Bourgenal 24 Vetiver Extender 1 Geranium Over Roses 7 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Rose Acetate 8 Benteine 11 Cinnamon - Chinese 4 Farnesol Oil 48 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 3 Irone V 2 Melfloral 6 Cinnamic Alcohol 3 Neryl Acetate 4 Meijiff 2 Stemone 5 Sandela 1 Pepper Black India Essence 43 Carnation Base .1 Alcohol C - 10 3 Bisabolene 9 Orange Oils, Dark 333 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Anisyl Alcohol 6 Sandalwood Mysore 37 Geraniol 4 Laurine Extra 8 Rose Base 4 Kephalis 1,000 3 Phixia 48 Muguet Base 8 Citronellol 750 7 Phenylethylalcohol 3 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 1 Cosmone - Givaudan

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 216

Oriental Sweet # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Vanisal 1 Caraway 8 Bacdanol 1 Corsican Violet 22 Benzoato Benzila 14 Peach Pure - Givaudan .1 Earth 43 Linalool 7 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG 4 Jasmone 39 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 May Rose 9 Javanol 3 Floralol 8 Vertofix 2 Ciclamen Aldeido 67 Benzylsalicylate 12 Peach Blossom FM - 1042 3 Myraldyl Acetate 5 Vetiver Acetate 6 Pomarose .3 Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant 2 Methyl Benzoate 24 Orange Oil Sweet 31 Benzyl Acetate Coeur .1 Alcohol C - 8 28 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Ylang # 2 20 Vetiver Extender 1 Bourgenal 7 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Citronellyl Acetate 10 Iso Jasmone 1 Meranol 5 Nerolidol 9 Cinnamon - Chinese 3 Irone V 58 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 8 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Melfloral 2 Meijiff 3 Neryl Acetate 5 Verdantiol 2 Stemone 45 Carnation Base 1 Pepper Black India Essence 1 Bisabolene .1 Alcohol C - 10 326 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 9 Orange Oils, Dark 3 Sandalwood Mysore 1 Anisyl Alcohol 4 Meijiff 37 Geraniol 5 Rose Base # 60 4 Kephalis 3 Phixia 1,000 51 Muguet Base 8 Citronellol 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Styrallylacetate .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 217 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

ORIENTAL SPICY

Top Strawberry 1 %

Bergamot 6 %, Orange 5 %, Lemon 3 %, Fruity Sweet

Mandarin 2 %, Basil 1 %, Peach - Trace

Middle Cinnamon 2 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Jasmin 4 %, Carnation 5 %, Rose 5 % Spicy Floral Spice Notes 2 % Violet 3 %, Muguet 1 %, Pine 1 %

Base Tonka 6 %

Opoponax 1 %, Myrry 1 %, Musk 2 % Warm Spicy

Sandalwood .5 %, Cedramber 1 %, Bacdanol 1 %, Vertofix 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 3 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 % Hercolyn - D 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 218

Oriental Spicy

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Bacdanol 7 Lavender Oil Bulgarian 55 Coumarin Substitute 4 Zingerone 17 Ethylene Brassylate 9 Strawberry Aldehyde 21 Phthalate D’Ethyl 13 Terpinyl Acetate 9 Sandalwood Oil Australian 4 Lyral 28 Benzyl Benzoate 17 Mandarin Oil Italian Select 4 Cedrenyl Acetate 1 Fennel Oil, sweet 6 Thyme Spanish White Commercial 45 Orange spanish 11 Opoponax Resinoid 1 Carvi Europe 9 Cinnamon Bark Substitute .1 Nonadienal 4 Alicate .3 Ylang Ylang Complete 42 Hercolyn - D 37 Linalyl Acetate 10 Alpha Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Rosemary Leaves Oil 39 Eugenol 32 Lemon Oils 12 Myrrh Resin Substitute 8 Hydroxycitronellal “A” 4 Thymol Crystals 5 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate 43 Benzyle Acetate 4 Persicol SA 10 Fir Needle Oil Canada .1 Cury Leaf Oil 12 Iso Eugenol Replacement .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 11 Di Isopropyl Phenol 3 Strawberry Oliffac 4 Safraleine 1 Cassia Oil - Viet Nam 12 Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Proionate 15 Ionone Alpha .1 Myrrh Essence 4 Iso Eugenol 3 Cardamon Seed 8 Citronellol 292 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 11 Lilial 1,000 12 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 36 Geraniol 5 Poivre 125 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Nutmeg Aromatic Water 1 CIS Jasmone 24 Linalool 9 Vertofix Coeur

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 219 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Oriental Spicy # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Acetate D’Iso Eugenyl 35 Lemon Oil - Ivory Coast 28 Benzoato Benzila 1 Celery India 61 Coumane 4 Thyme Oil - Spanish White 18 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Sandalwood Essence 23 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Vetivert Oil - Haiti 9 Cedramber 1 Lilial 10 Opoponax Base 9 Aldeido C - 16 6 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 22 Mandarin Oil - South African 43 MDJ .1 Tobacco Inco 20 1 Aubepine .1 Lime Essence 41 Benzyl Acetate Coeur .1 Ylang Ylang II 12 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 1 Clove Bud Oil 9 Myrrh Resinoid Washed 4 Verdy Propionate 11 Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 CIS Jasmone 8 Alcool Cinnamique synth. 3 Iralia 12 Bacdanol 5 Hydroxycitronellal A 13 Pine Oil 900 .1 Nonadienal 18 Carnation Base 3 Verdyl Acetate 42 Hercolyn - D 5 Nectaryl 39 Geraniol Pure .3 Beta Caryophellene 11 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Massada 4 Cardamon Oil - Honduras 1 Caraway ( Carvi ) 10 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Opoponax Augaflor 24 13 Vertofix Coeur 1 Iso - Eugenol 1 Bisabolene 7 Citronellol 289 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 9 Lilial .1 Exaltolide 32 Ionone Intermediate Base 41 Hercolyn - D 3 Carnaline 52 Orange Oil Sweet - US .1 Alcohol C - 8 1 Tea Tree Oil 4 Jasmonyl Acetate 7 Terpinyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 220

Oriental Spicy # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Rose Crystals 5 Verdyl Acetate 9 Sandela 9 Lyral 57 Coumane 3 Cassia Oliffac 4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 14 Bergamot Oil Substitute 32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Pepper Black India Oil 11 Myrrh Resinoid Substitute 41 Linalyl Acetate 1 Drywood Augaflor 9 Aldehyde C - 16 10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 7 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate 6 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Narcissi Moroccan 16 Muscomer 1151 P 45 Orange Oil Brazil 10 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 1 Pelargene 9 Ionone Alpha 33 Lemon Juicy Coast 4 Flavoperine 8 Hidroxicitronelal 8 Massada 2 Coriande Seed Oil 36 Eugenol .1 Benzoin Abs. - Sumatra 12 Pine Oil 5 Celery Seed Oil 8 Sandalore .1 Folione 19 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 8 Safraleine 24 Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Tangerine, Florida 43 Geraniol 4 Santalol 18 Iso Eugenol Replacement 33 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 2 Girofle Clous Oil 1,000 8 Citronellol 319 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 7 Lilial 11 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 14 Acetato Terppinla 5 Benzyl Iso Eugenol 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 9 Iso Eugenol .1 Birch Sweet Essence .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 8 Nectaryl 6 Vertofix Coeur 1 CIS Jasmone 25 Linalol Coeur 3 Raspberry Leaves - IFF Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 221 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

ORIENTAL SPICY

Top Lemon 4 %

Orange 2 %, Jasmin, Cherry .5 % Fruity

Raspberry .5 %, Melon .5 %, Bergamot 2 %

Middle Muguet 6.5 %

Pepper 1 % Carnation 4 %, Rose 9 %, Violet 6 % Floral Spicy

Jasmin 3 %, Cinnamon 7 %

Base Musk 3 %

Opoponax 1 %, Myrrh 1 %, Sandalwood 3 % Warm Spicy

Moss - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylae 3 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 222

Oriental Spicy # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Acetate Iso Eugenol 2 Eco Friendly Accord 10 Coumarin Extra Pure 9 Cinnamon Bark Oil 31 Benzyl Salicylate 6 Jasmolactone Extra C 24 Ethylene Brassylate 25 Orange Oil, Sweet 8 Opoponax Base .3 Tobacco Tincture 1 Thymoxane 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Suderal HT 8 Brahmanol 13 Terpinyl Acetate 6 Caryophylline 919 41 Lemon Italian Select ( Winter Crop ) 11 Myrrh Resinoid Washed 1 Pimento Leaf 12 Cinnamon Bark Substitute .2 Sweet Almond Flower .1 Moss Oliffac 6 Benzaldehyde 29 Eugenol 4 Clove Oil, Rectified 31 Benzyl Acetate 9 Linalool 14 alpha Methyl Cinnamic Alcohol 1 Clemenflor 9 Liral 3 Melon Oliffac 4 Bisabolene .1 Coriander Oil Russian 3 Tonka Resinoid 1 Nerol 12 Iso Eugenol Replacement 5 Methyl Diantilis 15 Benzoato Benzila 3 Carnaline 4 Safraleine 22 Linalyl Acetate 8 Thyme ( Thymol Type ) 3 Girofle Clove Oil 53 Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Cinnamon Leaf Ceylon FCC 306 Di Propileno Glico 2 Tangerinol 14 Ionone Alpha 60 9 Citronellol 12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000 6 Raspberry Ketone 72 Geraniol 4 Jasmin Egypt 45 Muguet Base 2 Piper Nigrum - Black Pepper 1 Anisaldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 7 Geranyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 223 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Oriental Spicy # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

33 Ethylene Brassylate 2 Leather LWS - 3768 2 Heliotropine 5 Carnation Augaflor 51 1 Mousse De Chenne .1 Rose Oxide BRI 31 Benzyl Salicylate 43 Lemon Oil, Spanish 10 Myrrh Resin Substitute 9 Tangerine California FCC 14 Benzyl Benzoate .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lenic 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 1, 3, 5 - Undecatriene FCC 28 Javanol 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol 6 Bisabolene 5 Lysmeral 11 Opoponax Base 13 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 9 Pepper Oil Black 24 Orange Sweet 6 Cashmeran 3 Benzoin Infusion 45 Iso Eugenol Replacement 6 Oxanone 31 Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Cassia Oliffac 4 Poivre 125 6 Melonyl 86471 VMF 7 Eugenol USP 926 3 Florymoss 5 Caryophelline Beta 6 Benzaldehyde 29 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 29 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 17 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .5 Aldehyde C - 20 Raspberry 3 Pepperwood 3 Jasphene 4 Thymol Crystals 4 Cassione 9 Citronellol - High Purity 2 Fraise 3333 SA 2 Muskylein .1 Coriander Russian Essence 8 Cardamon Oil - Guatemala 26 Linalyl Acetate 322 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Iso - Eugenol 75 Geraniol 60 1,000 2 Sandalore 9 Terpinyl Acetate 14 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 13 Linalol S 927 3 Cascarilla Oil 1 Tea Tree Oil .1 Methyl Cinnimate 4 Jasmonyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 224

Oriental Spicy # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Vanillin 5 Carnation Augaflor 51 19 Rhodiascent Extra pure 9 Linalol S 97 8 Opoponax Base .1 Methyl Cinnimate 4 Heliotropine 13 Acetate De Terpinyle 2 Black Agar Givco 215 6 Tonkarinol 45 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 42 Lemon Oil Italian C.P. 3 Bisabolene 1 Cassia Natural Essence 1 Moss Oliffac 3 Costausol 13 Helional 5 Tilanol Super 29 Benzyl Salicylate 27 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 32 Sandela 3 Fir Needle Oil ( Pine Needle Oil ) 30 Benzyle Acetate 1 Suderal LT 11 Iso Eugenol Replacement 2 Coriander Oil Russian .1 Alcohol C - 10 .1 Nonadienal 6 Poivre 125 4 Lavendula Stoechas 8 Benzyl Benzoate 2 Coleus Oil 3 Safraleine 6 Raspberry Ketone 68 Geraniol .1 Ylang Ylang Super Extra 7 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 14 Linalyl Acetate 52 Hydroxycitronellal 98 % .3 Rose - Egypt 4 Caryophyllene Acetate 3 Flavoperine 3 Pepper Oil Black 1 Sweet Pea 11 Lyral .1 Rooibus 6 Myrrh Resinoid Washed .1 Benzoin Abs. - Sumatra 339 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Jeseate 7 Citronellol 4 Benzaldehyde 54 Ionone Intermediate Base 38 Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Crystals 1,000 4 Benzyl Iso Eugenol 33 Eugenol .1 Orris Oil 1 Sage Leaves Oil - France 3 CIS Jasmone 2 Aldeido Seringa Sarl

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 225 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fragrance Families

EN'S FRAGRANCES TODAY ARE OPEN TO A MYRIAD OF INTERPRETATIONS based on Lavender, Fougere, MOriental, Chypre and Citrus. The Oriental, and Chypre group shares a common theme with women's fragrances

MASCULINE NOTES

Lavender Family:

The fragrances are comprised of a union of lavender, or lavandin notes atop a mossy base with a citrusy freshness. Fougere Royale by Houbigant was the first scent in this class. The Lavender and Fougere families are similar often incorporating aroma materials that can be found in either theme. Originally it was intended for women, but soon found its way to the men's side. Having fresh lavender as the main part of the fragrance there is less room for creative interpretation. Both fresh and spicy themes predominate.

Lavender Fresh

This group is categorized by a predominate Lavender accord. Supporting notes can come from many areas opening up this theme to a wide range of creative interpretations.

Lavender Spicy

Fougere Family:

Fougere Royale first introduced by Houbigant in 1882 was the start of this family. A composition can uti-

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 226 lize a wide range of aromatic chemicals as mentioned above including a variety of herbs, geranium and ferns. The group was originally intended for the feminine market. However, it soon found its way to the men's side of the fragrance isle. There are four sub-divisions in this group headed by Floral, Fresh, Woody and Sweet themes.

Fougere Fresh

This group has a predominate lavender freshness. Many of today's fragrances have utilized a dry-fresh approach that can often incorporate a variety of different accords.

Fougere Floral

The fougere floral theme can incorporate a variety of different components. This can include combinations of dry fresh lavender often utilizing muguet, cyclamen and spicy woody notes.

Fougere Woody

Fougere Sweet

Oriental Family:

Oriental Sweet

Oriental Spicy

Scents in this family can include combinations of spicy notes along with amber, vanilla, woods and resinous

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 227 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions materials. Fine fragrances in this group can be on the heavy side, and long lasting.

Chypre Family:

Chypre Woody

Chypre Leather

Chypre Coniferous

Chypre Fresh

A chypre fresh concept can include notes of sage, lavender, oakmoss, patchouli and resins. The scents have a woodsy outdoor feel reminiscent of the forest.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 228

Chypre Green

The chypre green accord incorporates the same group of aromatic chemicals. However, in this case often Galbanum Oil and other green related floral materials are added to provide a fresh green effect.

Citrus Family:

Citrus Floral:

A citrus floral arrangement is predominately floral based with a distinctive citrus note based on the above.

Citrus Fantasy

A citrus fantasy concept can also have a floral theme different base materials including the combination of many different citrus notes to produce different effects.

Citrus Fresh

A citrus fresh fragrance is open for interpretation. What's fresh to one interesting can be green to another. A fresh fruit can be tart, sweet, juicy strong or weak.

Citrus Green

Ozone Family:

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 229 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Herbaceous Fragrance Chemicals

Alfania Base # 38228 If a compound based on alfalfa most likely green or herbal. Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Mild herbaceous reminiscent of many types of flowers. Anisyl Formate Sweet herbaceous green somewhat dry odor. Armoise Oil Herbaceous green.

Basil Oil Commores Fresh, somewhat herbaceous. Benzcinimal Powerful sweet herbaceous, cinnamon spicy odor. Benzyl Formate Powerful fruity green herbaceous.

Camomile German Typically sweet, and herbaceous. Camomile Moroccan Similar to above and below except for a rose, honey. Camomile Roman Characteristic odor of the flowers, fresh, sweet herbaceous. Carvacrol Penetrating dry medicinal phenolic herbaceous odor. Carvone Laveo Warm herbaceous bread like, reminiscent of spearmint oil. CIS 3 Hexenyl Benzoate Mild, but tenacious green herbaceous woody odor. Cornmint Terpenes Warm herbaceous bread like, spearmint like. Coumarin Sweet, herbaceous warm somewhat spicy odor, dilution - hay like. Cuminic Aldehyde Pungent green herbaceous odor. Cyclo Galbonate Strong herbaceous green.

Di Hydro Anethol Powerful sweet herbaceous. Di Hydro Cuminyl Alcohol Warm, herbaceous slightly woody odor. Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl Warm herbaceous floral. Di Methyl Hydro Quinone Warm herbaceous, nut tobacco like.

Ethyl Methacrylate Very diffusive and penetrating grassy herbaceous odor.

Floropal Herbal fresh floral green. Flove Oil Intensely sweet, coumarin hay like heavy herbaceous odor.

Galbex 183 Woody green herbaceous odor. Gamma Heptalactone Sweet herbaceous nut like. Gamma Octalactone Sweet herbaceous coconut like.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 230

Geranium Moroccan Sweet and powerful, rosy leafy slightly herbaceous odor. Gyrane A diffusive herbal green type odor.

Herbonal A fresh garden herb like fragrance. Herboxane A faint herbal odor with a sweet dry out. Hexyl Cyclo Pentanone # 405 Powerful and diffusive dry floral green herbaceous odor. Hexyl Salicylate Faint sweet herbaceous floral odor.

Iso Butyl Caproate Mild herbaceous woody, but over all fruity oily odor. Iso Butyl Salicylate Sweet harsh herbaceous floral. Iso Nonyl Alcohol Powerful oily herbaceous, dilution - sweet odor. Iso Plugeol Minty herbaceous reminiscent of the first smell of tuberose.

Jasmal Powerful oily herbaceous warm jasmin odor. Jessemal Herbaceous floral jasmin.

Labdanum Abs. A sweet herbaceous recalling ambergris, slightly animal. Laveo Menthyl Acetate Mild and sweet slightly fruity herbaceous minty odor. Lavandin Grosso Sweet balsamic herbaceous. Lavender Oil Spiked Typically sweet, balsamic and herbaceous. Lie De Vin Select Harsh herbaceous floral type odor.

Marigold Abs. Intensely bitter herbaceous odor. Menthanyl Acetate Fresh piney citrusy somewhat herbaceous. Methyl Anisate Sweet herbaceous delicately floral odor. Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Powerful sweet herbaceous cinnamon spicy. Methyl Heptyl Ketone Fruity floral, slightly fruity and herbaceous odor. Methyl Jasmonate Powerful herbaceous floral. Methyl Lavender Ketone Sweet floral lavender.

Ocimene Warh herbaceous and very diffusive odor. Origanum Oil Possesses a tar like herbaceous, but very refreshing odor. Orris Resinoid A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor. Ortho Methyl Cinnamic Ald Powerful sweet herbaceous woody camphoraceous, spicy. Oxaspirane Powerful herbal minty camphoraceous.

Patchouli Dark Extremely rich sweet herbaceous aromatic spicy woody. Patchouli MD Very sweet rich spicy aromatic herbaceous balsamic odor. Patchone Extremely dry woody camphoraceous, patchouli like odor. Phenyl Ethyl Formate Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor. Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity. Phytia Abs. Powerful floral herbaceous balsamic, not sweet. Piconia Woody, patchouli earthy like.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 231 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Rosemary Oil Woody herbaceous, reminiscent of spike lavender oil.

Sage Oil Clary Sweet herbaceous tenacious odor. Sage Oil Dalmation Fresh strong warm spicy herbaceous, camphoraceous. Stemone Green slightly herbaceous odor.

Taget Abs. Intensely herbaceous green with a sweet fruity undertone. Talin Fruity herbal odor of anise, basil and fennel. Tansy Oil Almost sharp and spicy dry herbaceous odor. Terpinyl Acetate Mildly herbaceous sweet and refreshing. Tepyl Acetate Oily herbaceous floral, and sweet earthy odor. Thyme Oil Red Rich sweet powerful, warm herbaceous spicy. Thymol Crystals Powerful sweet medicinal herbaceous warm odor. Tonka Beans Abs. Sweet herbaceous slightly coumarin. Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate Powerful herbaceous green, and fresh woody odor. T M Cyclo Hexanol Acetate Mild and sweet minty herbaceous.

Veltonal Strong herbaceous type odor. Verdyl Propionate Fresh herbal note reminiscent of basil oil. Vetchouli Green herbaceous odor. Violet Abs. French Strong herbaceous floral violet. Violet Abs. Rue Herbaceous floral violet, not as sweet as the french oil. Violet Colorless 54.5219 Herbaceous floral odor of the violet.

Wormwood Oil Intensely herbaceous green warm and deep.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 232

Masculine Fragrance’s - Lavender Fresh

LAVENDER FRESH

This group is categorized by a predominate Lavender accord. Supporting notes can come from many areas opening up this theme to a wide range of creative interpretations.

Top Lavender 7 %

Orange 5 %, Beramot 4 % - Fruity, Green Notes Herbaceous

Basil 1 %, Rose

Middle Jasmin 3 %

Amyl Salicylate 2 % Lilac 1 %, Carnation 4 %, Rose 10 % Floral Terpinyl Acetate 2 % Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 % Pine 5 %, Violet 1 %, Muguet 2 %

Vanilla 3 % Base Tonka 1 %, Benzoin 1 %, Musk 4 % Sweet

Labdanum .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate .5 % Benzyl Salicylate .5 % Hercolyn - D 4 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 233 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Lavender Fresh # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Benzyl Benzoate 9 Ionone Beta 5 English Leather Base 11 Citrus Lavender Base 3 Iso Bornyl Crystals .1 Birch Tar Rectified 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 23 Citronellol 11 Coumarin .4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate 6 Salicylate De Benzyle 14 Bergamot Substitute 18 Vanisal 1 Lyral 7 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG 3 Rosemary Oil Tunisian 4 Iso E Super 14 Lianlool 3 Musk Emeressence 5 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate 25 Amyl Salicylate 3 Diola .1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 11 Leather Base FM 1064 6 Black Agar Givco .1 Rose Oxide L 9 Iso De Hydro Lavandual 28 Linalyl Acetate 4 Ethyl, Vanillin 4 Herbonal 8 Kephalis .1 Aldehyde C - 8 19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 6 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate 8 Terpineol Prime .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 38 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Rose Acetate 33 Hercolin - D 1 Massada 26 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Nonadienal 6 Jessemal 1 Rosimariff 5 Labdanum Resinoid .1 Leaf Alcohol 28 Fir Needle Oil Canadian 3 Sage Sclarel - Russia 9 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur .1 Costus Oliffac 98 Geraniol 6 Sandela 285 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 7 Cedrenyl Acetate 1 Benzophenone 7 Lyral 1 Mahagonate 56 Lavender Oil Std. 4 Eugenol 18 Terpinyl Acetate 36 Galaxolide 50

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 234

Lavender Fresh # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Benzyl Benzoate 22 Acetate De Terpinyle 9 Coumane .1 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 33 Vanillina .1 Nonadienal 5 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 7 beta - Ionone 11 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG 3 Santalyl Acetate 16 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Laurico 28 Musk Ambrette Substitute 5 Hyacinth PP 5 Cedraclaire 1 Drywood Augaflor 4 Benzylsalicylate 48 Orange - Belize .1 Iso Propylene Quinoline 53 Lavender Fleurs 40/42 % FCC 52 Hedione 3 Santalyl Acetate .1 Earth 2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 9 Musk Gazalle 1 Suderal LT 43 Hercolyn - D 3 Sage Oil Clary 8 Levanalis .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauryl 28 Ethyl Vanllin 5 Verdyl Acetate 12 Lilial .1 Rose Oxide L 47 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Petilyn 9 Jasmin Province Base 4 Bergamot C.P. 22 Citronelol 2 Vertocinth 1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 3 Khovane 3 Rosalyptus 8 Lavender Oliffac 4 Cedrenyl Acetate 1,000 75 Geraniol 1 Pelargene 304 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Mousse De Chenne 13 Methyl Ionone Beta 6 Tonalid II 5 English Leather Base 1 Benzophenone .1 Phenylacetaldehyde 19 Amyl Salicylate 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 8 Lindenol 3 Lavandulas

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 235 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Lavender Fresh # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Iso E Super 1 Carnation Leaves Essence 33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Sage Oil, Dalmatian 8 Benzoato Benzila 19 Terpinyl Acetate 13 Cedro Virginia 6 Ethyl Geranate 26 Vanilina 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Alicate 9 Linalool .1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 2 Carnaline 7 Benzyle Salicylate 4 Verdyl Acetate 4 Iso Bornyl Crystals 1 Costus Oliffac 3 Benzoin Resinoid .1 Aldehyde Supra 22 Amyl Salicylate 52 Orange Oil, Sweet 9 Fir Needle Oil 1 Cyclal - C 34 Benzyl Acetate 17 Fir Needle Canada 42 Hercolyn - D 6 Verdyl Propionate 45 Carnation Base .2 Iralia 17 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Costus Oliffac 4 Tonka Resinoid 27 Linalyl Acetate 2 Woodynol - I 4 Jessemal 39 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Geranyl Acetate 6 Rhodia Scent 1 Petilyn 5 Citronellol 1 Cyclemone A 3 Hydro Carbon Resin SB .1 Folione 4 Di Methyl Octnaol 1 Cedrafix 5 Musk Gx 50 % DEP 3 Rosemary Spain 21 Lyral .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 14 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 295 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 65 Geraniol 1,000 6 Tonalid I 11 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 6 Hexyl Salicylate 57 Lavender 40/52 1 Styrallyl Acetate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 6 Diola

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 236 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrance’s - Lavender Spicy

LAVENDER SPICY

Top Lavender 6 %

Petitgrain 2 %, Bergamot 4 %, Clary Sage 1 % Fresh Herbaceous

Lemon 3 %, Basil 1 %

Middle Rose 5 %

Vetiver 1 % Lily of the Valley 4 %, Carnation 3 %, Jasmin 5 % Floral Terpinyl Acetate - Trace Cinnamic Alcohol - Trace Geranium 2 %, Fern 1 %, Fir 3 % Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Patchouli 2 % Base Musk 2 %, Sandalwood 4 %, Leather 2 % Sweet Mossy

Labdanum 1 %, Cedar 3 %, Amber - Trace, Moss - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 2 % Benzyl Salicylate 3 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 237 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Lavender Spicy # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

22 Benzyl Benzoate 12 Citrus Lavender Base 5 Cedryl Acetate 5 Sage Oil, Solvia Officia 3 Benzophenone 34 Lemon Oil South African 11 Amber Substitute 3 Caraway ( Carvi ) 12 Patchouli Oil MD 22 Linalool 28 Benzyl Salicylate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Grapefruit White 9 Iso & Super 3 Acetate De Terpenyle 3 Alcool Cinamico 62 Lavender French Alpine 11 Coumane 6 Bergamot Oil - Ivory Coast 22 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Verdyl Acetate 29 Cedarwood Himalayan 3 Green Ivy Givco 168 7 Labdanum Resinoid 50 %/DPG 9 Fir Needle Oil Chinese 16 Carnation Base .1 Rose Oxide L 29 Sandalwood Mysore 3 Dipteryx Odorata 14 Ionone Beta Coeur 5 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate 5 Cade Oil 7 Methyl Amyl Ketone 3 Claryfol 4 Herbon 4 Diola 21 Linalyl Acetate 7 Citronellol 3 Syringa 12 Organic Shampoo Base 1 Methyl Chavicol 53 Benzyle Acetate 5 Vetiver Acetate Java 24 Eugenol 7 Ocimene PQ 39 Geraniol 2 Verdantiol 319 Di Propileno Glico 1,000 6 Turpntine Oil Steam Distilled .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 4 Koavonne 2 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 17 Petitgrain Bigarade Tree Oil - Paraguay 9 Hexyle Salicylate 3 Suderal LT 1 Cirtronellyl Acetate 1 Safraleine

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 238

Lavender Spicy # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoato 1 Citronellyl Acetate 5 Cedrol Liquid 65 1 Bisabolene 3 Benzophenone 12 Citrus Lavender Base 11 Amberwood 5 Sage Oil, Solvia Officia 12 Patchone 34 Lemon Oil South African 28 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Caraway ( Carvi ) 54 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 19 Linalool 9 Iso & Super .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 3 Alcool Cinamico 8 Grapefruit White 11 Coumane 3 Acetate De Terpenyle 27 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 62 Lavender French Alpine 24 Cedarwood Oil Texas Light 6 Bergamot Oil - Ivory Coast 7 Labdanum Resinoid 5 Verdyl Acetate 16 Carnation Base 1 Green Ivy Givco 168 29 Sandalwood Mysore 11 Fir Needle Oil Chinese 14 Ionone Beta Coeur .1 Rose Oxide L 5 Leather LWS - 3768 3 Dipteryx Odorata 3 Claryfol 5 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate 4 Diola 7 Methyl Amyl Ketone 5 Citronellol 750 4 Herbon 14 Heidera Base 21 Linalyl Acetate 53 MDJ 3 Syringa 21 Eugenol 1 Methyl Chavicol 42 Geraniol 5 Vetiver Acetate Java 2 Veraflor 7 Ocimene PQ 320 Di Propileno Glico 6 Turpntine Oil - Viet Nam .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 1,000 4 Kephalis 1 Sandalore 15 Petitgrain Bigarade Tree Oil - Paraguay 9 Hexyle Salicylate 5 Suderal HT

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 239 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Lavender Spicy # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

10 Benzyl Benzoato 1 Bisabolene 5 Cedrol Liquid 65 9 Citrus Lavender Base 3 Benzophenone 5 Sage Oil French 11 Amber Substitute 31 Lemon Oil South African 12 Patchouly Madagascar 3 Caraway Oil Holland 26 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 22 Linalool 45 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 9 Iso & Super 5 Grapefruit White 3 Alcool Cinamico 3 Acetate De Terpenyle 14 Coumane 65 Lavender French Alpine 21 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 6 Bergamot Oil - Ivory Coast 27 Cedarwood Himalayan 5 Verdyl Acetate 5 Labdanum Resinoid 50 %/DPG 3 Green Ivy Givco 168 18 Carnation Base 9 Fir Needle Oil Chinese 31 Sandalwood Mysore .1 Rose Oxide L 16 Ionone Beta Coeur 3 Dipteryx Odorata 5 Leather LWS - 3768 5 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate 1 Claryfol 10 Methyl Amyl Ketone 4 Diola 4 Herbon 7 Citronellol 850 21 Linalyl Acetate 10 Organic Shampoo Base 2 Syringa 50 Benzyl Acetate 1 Methyl Chavicol 24 Eugenol 6 Vetiver Acetate 42 Geraniol 60 7 Amyl Salicylate 2 Oncidal 331 Di Propileno Glico 6 Turpntine Oil - West Virginia 1,000 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 4 Kephalis 2 Chandanone 17 Petitgrain Bigarade Tree Oil - Paraguay 9 Hexyle Salicylate 3 Suderal LT 1 Citronellyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 240

Masculine Fragrance’s - Fougere Fresh

FOUGERE FRESH

This group has a predominate lavender freshness. Many of today's fragrances have utilized a dry-fresh approach that can often incorporate a variety of different accords.

Top Bergamot 5 %

Lavender 7 %, Anise 1 %, Clay Sage 1.5 % Fresh Herbaceous

Lemon 3 %, Rosemary .5 %, Artemisia 1 %

Middle Cedar 3 %

Vetiver 3 % Geranium 2 %, Jasmin 4 %, Rose 6 % Floral Woody Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Sandalwood 3 %, Carnation 4 %

Base Patchouli 3 %

Amber .5 %, Oakmoss - Trace, Tonka 6 % Mossy Leathery

Musk 3 %, Leather 1 % Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 2 % Benzyl Salicylate 3 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 241 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Fresh # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

53 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 1 Guaiyl Acetate 22 Benzoato Benzila 19 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Lichen ( Moss ) 4 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Cedrenyl Acetate 2 Genievre Basil Oil Yugoslavia 5 Amber Base 3 Citronellyl Acetate 47 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Romarin Afrique de Nord 29 Patchouli Dark .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso 8 English Leather Base .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 31 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 1 Peppermint Oil - American 39 Benzyle Acetate 4 Methyl Camomile 28 Galaxolide 50 25 Linalol 15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye 1 Carnaline 27 Jessemal 4 Vetiver Acetate 11 Organic Shampoo Base 38 Lemon Oil Argentina 4 Tonka Feve Resinoide 6 Methyl Chavicole 12 Di Methyl Ionone 8 Anethole 26 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 16 Linalyl Acetate 3 Eucalyptus Radiata 1 Methyl Cedrylone 4 Herbaflorat .1 Rose Oxide L 6 Citronellol 750 3 Sandela 5 Morillol 2 Pepper, White 38 Vetiver Extender 4 Syringa 6 Serenolide 5 Rhodiascent 3 Benzophenone 3 Tonkarinol 12 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 9 Methyl Ionone Beta 13 Fir Needle Oil Canadian 5 Claryfol 41 Geraniol 6 Hawthorn 307 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 4 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 3 Green Ivy Givco 8 Citrus Lavender Base 10 Sage Spain .3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 242

Fougere Fresh # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

53 Coumarin Substitute 4 Anisyl Alcohol 18 Benzoato Benzila 2 Genievre Basil Oil Yugoslavia 1 Mousse De Metre 1 Citronellyl Acetate 6 Cedrenyl Acetate 5 Romarin Afrique de Nord 5 Amber Base .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso 46 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 20 Patchouli Oil - Indonesia 1 Peppermint Oil - American 10 English Leather Base 6 Hexyl Salicylate 31 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 26 Linalol 44 Acetato De Benzyl 1 Methyl Iso Eugenol 28 Galaxolide 50 4 Vetiveryl Acetate 19 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye 33 Lemon Oil Argentina 22 Jessemal 6 Methyl Chavicole 11 Organic Shampoo Base 8 Anethole 6 Tonka Feve Resinoide 17 Linalyl Acetate 10 Di Methyl Ionone 1 Methyl Cedrylone 24 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Oxide L 3 Eucalyptus Radiata 3 Santalol 4 Herbaflorat 2 Pepper Oil India 8 Citronellol 4 Syringa 7 Morillol 5 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 30 Vetiver Extender 3 Tonkarinol 8 Cashmeran 9 y - Irone 1 Rose Crystals 5 Claryfol 12 Ionone Beta 15 Fir Needle Oil Canadian 36 Geraniol 99 % 1,000 6 Hawthorn 316 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 3 Green Ivy Givco 13 Citrus Lavender Base 10 Sage Spain .3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico 1 Guaiyl Acetate 19 Phenylethylalcohol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 243 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Fresh # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

43 Cou Marin 4 Anisyl Alcohol 22 Benzoato Benzila 2 Genievre Basil Oil Yugoslavia 1 Moss Olifac 1 Citronellyl Acetate 6 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 5 Romarin Afrique de Nord 5 Amber Base .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 29 Patchouli Oil MD 1 Peppermint Oil - American 10 English Leather Base 16 Alicate 31 Benzyl Salicylate 24 Linalol 44 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 2 Iso Eugenol 28 Traseolide 4 Vetiveryl Acetate 15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye 35 Lemon Oil Argentina 22 Jessemal 6 Methyl Chavicole 11 Organic Shampoo Base 8 Anethole 3 Tonka Feve Resinoide 17 Linalyl Acetate 10 Di Methyl Ionone 1 Methyl Cedrylone 24 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Oxide L 3 Eucalyptus Radiata 3 Santalol 4 Herbaflorat 2 Pepper, White 8 Citronellol 4 Syringa 5 Morillol 5 Rhodiascent 38 Vetiver Extender 3 Tonkarinol 6 Serenolide 9 Ionone Beta 3 Benzophenone 1 Claryfol 12 Methyl Ionone Beta 10 Alpha Pinene 44 Geraniol 1,000 9 Aubepine ( Anisic Aldehyde ) 315 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Sandalore 3 Green Ivy Givco 13 Citrus Lavender Base 10 Sage Morocco .3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico 1 Guaiyl Acetate 13 Pheny Ethyl Alcohol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 244

Masculine Fragrance’s - Fougere Floral

FOUGERE FLORAL

The fougere floral theme can incorporate a variety of different components. This can include combinations of dry fresh lavender often utilizing muguet, cyclamen and spicy woody notes.

Top Artemesia 3 %

Lavender 7 %, Green Notes 1 %, Laurel 2 % Fresh Herbaceous

Rosemary 1 %, Petitgrain 3 %, Basil 1 %, Aldehydes 1 %,

Middle Rose 4 %

Oncidal .5 % Geranium 1 %, Carnation 4 %, Fern 1.5 % Herbaceous Floral Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Green Ivy Givco .5 % Jasmin 4 %, Lily 1 % Vetiver 4 % Moss - Trace Base Amber .5 %, Labdanum 2 %, Cedar 2 %, Fir 1 % Mossy Powdery

Tonka 6 %, Styrax .5 %, Benzoin 1 % Herbs: Armoise, Basil, Bucchu, Camphor, Cedar Leaf, Chamomile, Eucalyptus, Hay, Hyssop, Juniper Berry, Lavandin, Lavender, Oregano, Parsley, Pennyroyal, Peppermint, Pine, Rosemary, Sage Clary, Spearmint, Spruce, Tansy, Tarragon, Thyme.

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 26 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 245 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Floral # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Evernyl ( Lichen ) 4 Aubepine 55 Coumarin Extra Pure 10 Oak Base 3 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 8 Laurel Oil 1 Amber Base 5 Carnaline 38 Musk 50 DPG 7 Methyl Lavender Ketone 21 Benzyl Salicylate 6 Fir Balsam Artesence 8 Styrax Resinoid 1 Lilie 23 Cedar, Leaves / Toya 5 Dianthanol 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 31 Petitgrain Mandarin Oil 19 Labdanum Resinoid 3 Methyl Chavicole 42 Benzyl Acetate 1 Terpinyl Acetate 9 Benzoin Base 4 Rosemary Tunisia 1 Eucalyptol 97 7 Verdyl Propionate 4 Herbaflorat .5 Pomarose 38 Vetiver Extender 1 Caryophelline 10 Fir Needle Oil Canadian 1 Cyclamen Aldehyde 1 Rose Crystals 27 Artemesia 23 Cedarwood Oil Atlas 5 Verdyl Acetate 6 Diola 3 Scennal 32 Eugenol 4 Sage Leaves Oil - France 8 Citronellol 5 Eugenyl Acetate 1 Herboxane 2 Citronellyl Acetate 13 Methyl Ionone Gamma 1 Iridales 29 Geraniol 98 4 Oncidal 306 Di Propileno Glico 1,000 3 Koavonne 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 21 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye 5 Veraflor .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 4 Sandalore 9 Hexyl Salicylate 1 Styrallyl Acetate 72 Lavender Dalmatian .1 Phenyl Acetaldehyde

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 246

Fougere Floral # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Moss Oliffac .1 Phenyl Acetaldehyde 50 Coumarin Substitute 8 Aubepine 3 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 6 Oak Base 5 Amber Base 8 Laurel Oil 30 Musk 50 DEP 5 Carnaline 22 Benzylsalicylate 7 Methyl Lavender Ketone 3 Styrax Resin 6 Fir Balsam Artesence 23 Cedar, Leaves / Toya 3 Amyl Salicylate 41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Methyl Diantilis 19 Labdanum Resinoide 27 Petitgrain Mandarin Oil 35 MDJ 3 Methyl Chavicole 9 Benzoin Base 1 Terpinyl Acetate 5 Eucalyptus Oil 2 Rosemary Tunisia 4 Herbaflorat 7 Verdyl Propionate 38 Vetiver Extender .5 Diola 10 Fir Needle Oil Chinese 1 Iso - Eugenol 1 Rosone 1 Cyclamen Aldehyde 31 Cedarwood Oil Port Orford 31 Artemesia 6 Lavandonat 5 Verdyl Acetate 32 Eugenol 3 Stemone 8 Citronellol 4 Sage Leaves Oil - France 1 Herboxane 5 Eugenyl Acetate 13 Methyl Ionone Gamma 2 Citronellyl Acetate 29 Geraniol 98 1 Iridales 4 Oncidal 303 Di Propileno Glico 3 Koavonne 1,000 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 21 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye 5 Verdantiol .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 4 Sandalore 9 Hexyl Salicylate 1 Styrallyl Acetate 72 Lavender Dalmatian

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 247 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Floral # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Moss Oliffac .1 Phenyl Acetaldehyde 58 Coumarin Substitute 8 Anisicaldehyde 3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 6 Oak Base 5 Amberwood 8 Laurel Oil 34 Musk 50 DEP 5 Carnation Augaflor 23 19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 7 Lavender Oliffac 3 Styrax Coeur 6 Fir Balsam Artesence 23 Cedarwood Oil Texas Light 3 Scennal 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Methyl Diantilis 15 Labdanum Resinoid 24 Petitgrain Mandarin Oil 42 Benzyle Acetate 3 Methyl Chavicole 9 Benzoin Resinoid 1 Terpinyl Acetate 3 Alpha Fenchyl Alcohol 4 Rosemary Tunisia 4 Herbaflorat 7 Verdyl Propionate 40 Vetiver Extender .5 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 8 Fir Needle Oil Austria 1 Eugenyl Acetate 1 Rose Crystals 1 Cyclamen Aldehyde 23 Cedrenyl Acetate 32 Artemesia 6 Lavandonat 5 Verdyl Acetate 27 Eugenol 100 % 3 Amyl Salicylate 8 Citronellol 750 4 Sage Leaves Oil - France 1 Herboxane 5 Eugenyl Acetate 18 Methyl Ionone Gamma 2 Citronellyl Acetate 25 Geraniol 98 1 Iridales 2 Veraflor 307 Di Propileno Glico 1 Koavonne 1,000 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 21 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye 5 Veraflor .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 4 Sandalore 9 Hexyl Salicylate 1 Styrallyl Acetate 72 Lavender Oil 40/42

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 248

FOUGERE FLORAL

Top Lavender 7 %

Rosemary 2 %, Bergamot 4 %, Petitgrain 1.5 % Fresh Herbaceous

Laurel 2 %, Basil 5 %, Lemon 5 %

Middle Geranium 2 %

Oncidal 1 % Carnation 3 %, Rosewood - Trace, Jasmi 4 % Floral Green Ivy 1 % Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 % Cedarwood 2 %, Fern 4 %

Base Moss - Trace

Musk 2 %, Amber - Trace, Tonka 5 % Mossy Ambery

Styrax 1 %, Labdanum 2 %, Leather 1.5 %, Benzoin .75 %

Bases - English Leather, Lilac, Citrus Lavender, Carnation, Organic Shampoo

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 3 % Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 249 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Floral # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Cade Oil 13 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Benzophenone 3 Methyl Geranate 32 Benzoato Benzila 9 Citrus Lavender Base 1 Amberwood 15 Verdyl Propionate 1 Mousse De Chenne 3 Rosemary Tunisia 33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 7 Cedryl Acetate 50 % 13 Organic Shampoo Base 48 Coumarin 4 Methyl Cedrylone 11 English Leather Base 3 Pepper White 21 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 5 Eucalyptus Globulos 70 3 Vetyver Acetate Haiti 26 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 75 Lavender True Organic .1 Iso Propyl Quinoline .3 Piconia 5 Di Isopropyl Phenol 4 Sage Oil Dalmatian 12 Benteine 8 Methyl Ionone Beta 11 Lilac Base 7 Verdyl Acetate 15 Lyral 11 Terpineol Prime 8 Lilie 4 Methyl Chavocle .1 Lavender Abs. 14 Linalool 15 Vertenex 6 Methyl Lavender Ketone 9 Oncidal 27 Linalyl Acetate 18 Carnation Base .1 Folione 9 Methyl Ionone Beta 3 Methyl Heptone Ketone 13 Citronellol 850 - IFF 5 Veraflor 13 Carnation Base 1 Stemone 7 Beta Ionone R 4 Laurel ( Bay Laurel ) 17 Geraniol 13 Labdanum Resinoid 9 Styrax Pure 1,000 334 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Diola 7 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid 1 Methyl Camomile 35 Hedione 7 Herbenal 9 Green Ivy Givco 168 4 Drywood Augaflor 6 Citronellyl Acetate Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 250

Fougere Floral # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Birch Tar Oil 6 Citronellyl Acetate 3 Benzophenone 13 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 28 Benzoato Benzila 3 Methyl Geranate 1 Amberwood ABQ 5583 8 Citrus Lavender Base 1 Mousse De Metre 19 Verdyl Propionate 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Rosemary Oil Spanish 7 Cedryl Acetate Crystals .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 51 Coumarin 12 Organic Shampoo Base 11 English Leather Base 1 Methyl Cedrylone 25 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 3 Pepper White 3 Eucalyptus Globulos 70 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 22 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Vetyver Acetate Haiti .1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 72 Lavender True Organic 5 2, 6 Xylenol .3 Piconia 12 Benteine 7 Sage Oil Dalmatian 11 Lilac Base 14 Methyl Ionone Beta 15 Hydroxy Citronellal Di Ethyl Acetal 7 Verdyl Acetate 8 Lilie 9 Terpineol ( Perfumery Grade ) .1 Tobacco Absolute 4 Methyl Chavocle 17 Vertenex - IBCH Acetate 11 Linalol S 97 9 Oncidal 6 Methyl Lavender Ketone 18 Carnation Base 30 Linalyl Acetate 7 Beta Ionone R .1 Nonadienal 15 Citronellol Pure 3 Methyl Heptone Ketone 18 Carnation Base 7 Sandela 7 Beta Ionone R 1 Stemone 15 Geraniol 98 % 2 Laurel ( Bay Laurel ) 9 Labdanum Resinoide 9 Styrax Pure 325 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 3 Diola 7 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid 1 Methyl Camomile 37 Hedione 5 Herbenal 11 Green Ivy Givco 168 2 Drywood Augaflor

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 251 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Floral # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Birch Tar Oil 2 Drywood Augaflor 6 Benzophenone 6 Citronellyl Acetate 28 Benzoato Benzila 13 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Amberwood ABQ 5583 1 Methyl Geranate 1 Mousse De Metre 12 Citrus Lavender Base 43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 23 Verdyl Propionate 7 Cedryl Acetate Crystals 3 Rosemary Tunisia 48 Coumarin .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 11 English Leather Base 13 Organic Shampoo Base 21 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 Methyl Cedrylone 5 Eucalyptus Globulos 70 1 Pepper White 26 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric .1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 5 Vetyver Acetate Haiti 5 2, 6 Xylenol 70 Lavender True Organic 12 Benteine .3 Patchone 11 Lilac Base 4 Sage Oil Dalmatian 15 Hydroxy Citronellal Di Ethyl Acetal 8 Methyl Ionone Beta 8 Lilie 7 Verdyl Acetate .1 Tobacco Absolute 11 Syringa 15 Vertenex - IBCH Acetate 2 Methyl Chavocle 9 Oncidal 14 Linalool 18 Carnation Base 8 Methyl Lavender Ketone 7 Beta Ionone R 27 Linalyl Acetate 15 Citronellol .1 Violet Leaves 18 Carnation Base 3 Methyl Heptone Ketone 7 Beta Ionone R 5 Veraflor 15 Geraniol Pur 1 Scennal 13 Labdanum Resinoid 4 Laurel ( Bay Laurel ) 9 Styrax Pure 319 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Diola 1,000 7 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid 1 Methyl Camomile 35 Hedione 7 Herbenal 11 Green Ivy Givco 168

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 252

Masculine Fragrance’s - Fougere Woody

FOUGERE WOODY

Top Lavender 6 %

Oncidal .5 % Bergamot 4 %, Anise 1 %, Basil 1.5 %, Lemon 3 % Fresh Herbaceous Veraflor .5 % Clary Sage 1 %, Artemesia 1 %, Petitgrain 2 %

Middle Cedarwood 4 %

Amyl Salicylate 1 % Fir Needle Oil 3 %, Jasmin 1.5 %, Carnation 1 % Floral Woody Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Iso E Super 3 % Fern 1 %, Pine 3 %, Rose 2 %, Violet 4 %

Base Sandalwood 5 %

Tree Moss - Trace, Vanilla .5 %, Vetiver 3 %, Tonka 4 % Ambery Mossy

Labdanum 1 %, Amber - Trace, Benzoin .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 253 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Woody # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate .1 Vertimoss 37 Coumane 5 Citronellyl Acetate 38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 17 Petitgrain Citronee Oil 5 Benzoin Siam Resinoid .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 1 Amber Substitute 4 Ocimene PQ 4 Vanillin .1 Cedarwood Essence 51 Sandalwood Givco 203 6 Herbavert 18 Benzyle Salicylate 5 Drywood Augaflor 7 Alpha Pinene 1 Ocimum Basilicum L. 6 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Rose Oxide L 1 Labdanum Resinoid 70 Lavender Bourbon 14 Vetamber ( Kephalis ) 8 Methyl Cedrylone 9 Amyl Salicylate .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 6 Oncidal 24 Linalol 925 35 Vetiver Extender 1 Pinhero Anao 1 Bois de Rose 3 Methyl Chavicole 11 Organic Shampoo Base 5 Levenalis 16 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur .1 Folione 6 Patchouli Crude 4 Clary Sage 5 Beta Pinene 1 Trimofix 3 Ethyl, Vanillin 16 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate 8 Fir Needle Oil 3 Woodinyl Acetate 3 Citronellol 2 Clove Bud Oil 15 MDJ 6 Artemisia Vulgaris Moroccan 331 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Fir Needle Oil Canadian 41 Cedarwood Oil - US 4 Cedryl Acetate 5 Anethole USP .1 Benzoin Abs. 22 Geraniol 60 % .1 Horseradish Oil 3 Dihydro Cyclacet 9 Ionone Beta Coeur 10 Iso E Super 1,000 9 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 29 Iso Bornyl Acetate 32 Lemon Oil Washed 3 Lyrame 7 Phenylethylalcohol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 254

Fougere Woody # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

10 Benzyl Benzoate 19 Petitgrain Citronee Oil 33 Coumane .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 8 Ocimene PQ 5 Benzoin Siam Resinoid .1 Cedarwood Essence 1 Amber Substitute 6 Herbavert 4 Vanisal 2 Drywood Augaflor 49 Sandalwood Extender 3 Ocimum Basilicum L. 23 Benzyle Salicylate .1 Rose Oxide L 5 Alpha Pinene 62 Lavender Oil 40/42 4 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 8 Methyl Cedrylone 1 Labdanum Resinoid .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 14 Iso E Super 28 Linalool 9 Amyl Salicylate 1 Alpha Pinene 8 Oncidal 1 Rosemary Oil Maroc 38 Vetiver Extender 5 Levenalis 1 Bois de Rose .1 Folione 11 Organic Shampoo Base 4 Clary Sage USA Oil 9 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 2 Trimofix 6 Patchouli Oil MD 17 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate 5 Alpha Pinene 8 Woodinyl Acetate 3 Ethyl Vanillin 2 Clove Stem Oil 5 Fir Needle Oil 6 Artemisia Vulgaris Moroccan 3 Citronellol 3 Massada 13 Benzyl Acetate FCC 4 Cedryl Acetate 50 % 346 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 Benzoin Abs. 32 Cedarwood Oil - US .1 Javanol 5 Anethole USP 24 Geraniol 60 % 1 Hexyle Salicylate 1,000 8 Methyl Ionone Beta 8 Iso E Super 13 Eugenol 29 Iso Bornyl Acetate 32 Lemon Oil California 3 Hidroxicitronelal 10 Phenyle Ethyl Alcohol .1 Vertimoss 3 Geranium Oil Egyptian Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 255 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Woody # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

22 Benzyl Benzoate 19 Petitgrain Citronee Oil 34 Rhodiascent .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 8 Ocimene PQ 3 Benzoin Siam Resinoid .1 Cedarwood Essence 1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 6 Herbavert 4 Vanisal 5 Drywood Augaflor 47 Sandec 3 Ocimum Basilicum L. 23 Benzyle Salicylate .1 Rose Oxide Inactive 7 Alpha Pinene 64 Lavender Chinese 4 Cedraclaire 8 Methyl Cedrylone 1 Labdanum Resinoid .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 14 ( Kephalis ) 24 Linalol 925 6 Amyl Salicylate 1 Pinhero Anao 5 Oncidal 3 Methyl Chavicole 35 Vetiver Extender 5 Diola 1 Palmarosa Oil .1 Folione 11 Organic Shampoo Base 4 Clary Sage Oil Spanish 22 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 1 Sandalore 6 Patchouli Oil Indonesia 16 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate 5 Beta Pinene 3 Woodinyl Acetate 3 Ethyl Vanillin 2 Clove Bud Oil 8 Fir Needle Oil 6 Artemisia Vulgaris Moroccan 3 Citronellol 3 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 14 Benzyle Acetate 4 Cedryl Acetate 50 % 334 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 Benzoin Abs. 38 Cedarwood Oil Virginia .1 Alpha Damascone 5 Anethole USP 22 Geraniol 60 % 3 Dihydro Cyclacet 1,000 9 Ionone Beta Coeur 10 Iso E Super 9 Methyl Iso Eugenol 29 Iso Bornyl Acetate 34 Lemon Oil California 3 Lyral 7 Phenylethylalcohol .1 Lichen 1 Citronellyl Acetate Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 256

Masculine Fragrance’s - Fougere Sweet

FOUGERE SWEET

Top Lavender 7 %

Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric Bergamot 4 %, Rosemary 1 %, Laurel % Herbaceous

Thyme - Trace, Basil 2 %

Middle Carnation 5 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Jasmin 7 %, Muguet 2 % Floral Spicy Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Geranium 2 %, Rose 4 %

Base Musk 2 %

Tonka 3 %, Sandalwood 5 %, Amber - Trace Warm

Patchouli 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 257 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Sweet # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

20 Benzyle Benzoate 14 Bergamot Oil Substitute 17 Musk NC 27 Geraniol 98 % 7 Tonka Substitute .3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico 2 Benzophenone 10 Verdyl Acetate 1 Mousse De Chenne 9 Citrus Lavender Base 8 Patchluli Oil Light 4 Iso Nonyl Acetate 29 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 15 Terpinyl Acetate 19 Coumarin Crystals Extra Pure .1 Undecatriene 36 Osyrol .1 Rose Oxide L 10 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 4 Carnaline 17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Safraleine - Givaudan .1 Iso Propyl Quinoline .1 Birch Tar Oil - Rectified 33 Carnation Base 5 Ionone Alpha Refined 5 Cashemran 3 Thyme Oil White 3 Fir Balsam Canadian 17 Verdyl Propionate 15 Oak Base 1 Celery Seed Oil - India 7 Herboxane 5 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 18 Eugenol .3 Aldehyde Supra 6 Kephalis 19 Linalyl Acetate 10 Heidera Base 1 Methyl Chavicole 39 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 2 Syringa 19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Eugenyl Acetate 5 Cedrenyl Acetate 1 Tea Tree Oil 4 Prenol 15 Organic Shampoo Base 5 Citronellol 1,000 9 Lyral 315 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 10 b - Irone 2 Benteine 68 Benzyl Acetate 75 Lavender ( Bulgaria ) 16 Linalol Synthetic FCC 11 Helional 3 Rosmary Oil Morocco 9 Hexyle Salicylate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 258

Fougere Sweet # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

10 Benzyl Benzoate 16 Bergamot Oil Substitute 17 Musk Ketone 27 Geraniol 60 9 Tonka Substitute .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 3 Geranium Rose - China 10 Verdyl Acetate 1 Mousse De Metre 9 Citrus Lavender Base 8 Patchluli Oil MD 4 Pampleousse 26 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 12 Terpinyl Acetate 19 Alicate .1 Undecatriene 48 Sandela .1 Rose Oxide L 10 Methyl Iso Eugenol 4 Carnaline 19 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Poivre 125 .1 Iso Butyl Quinoline .1 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 14 Methyl Iso Eugenol 5 Ionone Alpha 60 2 Traseolide - Quest 1 Thyme Oil - Spanish 1 Fir Balsam Oil 17 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate 15 Oak Base 1 Celery Seed Oil - India 7 Herboxane 4 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate 40 Eugenol .3 Phenylacetaldenyde 6 Kephalis 23 Linalyl Acetate 10 Heidera Base 1 Methyl Chavicole 39 Methyl Ionone Gamma 2 Syringa 19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Eugenyl Acetate 7 Cedrenyl Acetate 1 Basilic 5 Vernol 12 Organic Shampoo Base 5 Citronellol 850 - IFF 1,000 15 Lyral 314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 10 a - Ionone 4 Meijiff 68 Super Cepionate 72 Lavender ( Bulgaria ) 14 Linalol Synthetic FCC 4 Helional 3 Rosmary Oil 12 Hexyle Salicylate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 259 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Sweet # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Benzyl Benzoate 9 Ocimene 17 Ethylene Brassylate 8 Bergamot Oil Substitute 6 Coumane 27 Geraniol 60 3 Benzophenone .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 1 Mousse De Chenne 12 Verdyl Acetate 8 Patchluli Oil Light 9 Citrus Lavender Base 28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Vanoris 14 Di Hydro Coumarex 16 Terpinyl Acetate 45 Sandela .1 Undecatriene 10 Cinnamon Bark Substitute .1 Rose Oxide D 19 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Rhodiascent .1 Earth 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol 14 Iso - Eugenol .1 Pepperwood - Givaudan 5 Musk Emeressence 5 Ionone Beta 1 Fir Balsam Anhydrol Inco 5 3 Thyme Oil - Spanish 20 Oak Base 17 Verdyl Propionate 4 Herboxane 1 Celery Seed Oil - India 38 Eugenol - Indonesia 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 6 Kephalis .3 Aldehyde Supra 8 Heidera Base 23 Linalyl Acetate 41 Methyl Ionone Gamma 1 Methyl Chavicole 19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Syringa 7 Cedrenyl Acetate 4 Eugenyl Acetate 5 Prenol 1 Basilic 12 Organic Shampoo Base 5 Citronellol 19 Lyral 1,000 303 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 12 y - Irone 4 Benteine 68 Hedione 72 Lavender ( Bulgaria ) 14 Linalol Synthetic FCC 11 Helional 3 Rosmary Oil Morocco

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 260

Masculine Fragrance’s - Oriental Sweet

ORIENTAL SWEET

Top Jasmin 2 %

Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic Orange 1 %, Green Notes .5 %, Bergamot 8 % Fruity Sweet Benteine Laurine Extra Ylang Ylang 1 %, Peach 3 %

Middle Violet 1 %

Muguet 4 %, Jasmin 4 %, Rose 6 % Floral Sweet Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 % Carnation 5 %

Base Vanilla 1.5 %

Sandalwood 2 %, Musk 2 %, Patchouli 1 %, Tonka 1 % Balsamic

Vetiver 4 %, Resin Benzoin 1 %, Moss - Trace, Earth - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 7 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 261 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Oriental Sweet # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Bacdanol .1 Civet 9 Benzyl Benzoate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 6 Vanilla Beans, Indonesia 28 Peach Aldehyde 19 Sandalwood Substitute 1 Rosardia Augaflor 21 10 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 3 Neroli Artessence 39 Phthalate D’Ethyle .1 Undecavertol 1 Mousse De Metre 2 Methyl Diantilis 4 Sandalwood, Java 11 Ionone Alpha White Coeur 23 Galaxolide Artessence 35 Linalyl Acetate 72 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Alcohol C - 10 9 Patchouli Oil MD 2 Styrallylacetate 11 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid 1 Iso Jasmone 8 Ethyl Vanillin 9 Lavender Oliffac 43 Benzyl Acetate 6 Anapear - Givaudan 9 Jasphene .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 1 Carnaline 11 Orange Oil, Sweet 38 Vetiver Extender 4 Vetiver Acetate 4 Fleuramone 3 Ciclamen Aldeido 22 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Vanilla Absolute 3 Orris Oil 1 Kir Base # 9741 .1 Earth 1 Mysoriff 45 Geraniol 60 3 Nerol G 9 Hydroxycitronellal A 5 Vertifloreol 6 Citronellol 9 Clemflor 1 Balsam Peru Oliffac .1 Decanal 4 Trans 3 Javanol 329 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000 1 Sandalwood Agemarked E.I. 25 Muguet Base 33 Carnation Base .1 Parmavert 3 Nutmeg, Ceylon 1 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa 47 Linalool Coeur .1 Violiff

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 262

Oriental Sweet # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Vanillin 4 Laurine Extra 22 Musk Gx 50 % DEP 3 Carnation Augaflor 17 6 Bacdanol 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 19 Sandalwood Extender 4 Jasmonyl Acetate 9 Benzyl Benzoate 54 Linalool Coeur 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Styrallylacetate 11 Cou Marin 1 Methyl Pamplemousse 10 Patchouli Indonesia 1 Bois Ambrene Forte 4 Iso E Super .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Undecelenico 1 Cedraclaire 3 Flroeal .1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 38 Linalyl Acetate 6 Etil Vanilina Rhodiarome 27 Peacharoma Base 3 Iris Beurre Oil 6 Hidroxi Citronelal 51 Benzyl Salicylate - 98 % China .1 Rose Abs. 9 Osyrol 1 Amberfleur 26 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Aldeido Ciclamen 31 Vetiver Extender 11 Aldehyde C - 14 49 Eugenol .1 Leaf Alcohol 9 Citronellol 3 Citronellyl Acetate A - IFF 42 Muguet Base 1 Eugenol Acetate .1 Alcohol C - 08 4 Iso Jasmone T 2 Iris Givco 204/2 6 Mandarinal 1 Winter Green 319 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 2 Fir Needle Oil Asia 1,000 41 Geraniol Pure 38 Acetate De Benzyle 1 Vanilla Beans 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 Methyl Ionone 10 Benzoine Resinoid 4 Odorys RH 5 Iso - Eugenol 6 Vetiver Acetate .1 Nonadienal 11 Orange Oil, Spanish

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 263 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Oriental Sweet # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Patchouli Oil MD 9 White Vineyard Peach - Givaudan 10 Benzoato Benzila 6 Hydroxycitronellal 99 % 11 Coumarin Substitute 1 Iridales 6 Opoponax Base 3 Muguet Augaflor 16 20 Cashmeran 11 Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Sandalwood Oliffac 1 Cis Jasmone 4 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 4 Cedraclaire 44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Styrallyl Acetate 11 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 1 Fixateur 404 .1 Evernyl 4 Alicate 58 Benzyl Salicylate 2 Fir Balsam Canadian 4 Vanilla Resinoid 3 Petilyn 5 Heliotropine 1 Bisabolene 48 Vetiver Extender 4 Nerol 41 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 55 Linalool 27 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Santalyl Acetate .1 Iso Butyl Quinoline 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 4 Cedrenyl Acetate 3 Cyclamen Aldehyde 5 Ethyl Vanisal 1 Acetate Terpenila 49 Geraniol 9 Orange Oil C.P. - USA 3 Lysmeral 1 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Vetiver Acetate 1 Di Methyl Octanol 2 Orange West Indies 32 Eugenol 334 Di Propileno Glicol 2 Benzoin Oliffac 63 1,000 6 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 3 Citronellol 35 Eugenol 4 Cedarwood Oil Atlas 27 Peach Aldehyde .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 9 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Benteine 33 Linalyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 264

Spice Fragrance Chemicals

Acetate Eugenol Sweet spicy carnation. Acetate Iso Eugenol Balsamic, warm faintly spicy.

Bay Oil West Indies Powerful spicy and sweet. Bisabolene Warm spicy balsamic.

Caraway Oil Intense and spicy. Cardamon Oil Spicy balsamic odor. Cardamon Abs. Strong warm spicy aromatic. Cardamone Oil D - 1204 Sweet, spicy piney woody camphoraceous. Caryophelline Beta Woody spicy dry and tenacious. Cassia Oil Intense cinnamon like. Cassie Abs. Powerful strong spicy floral odor. Cassie Abs. Syn 17.620 Warm powdery spicy and at same time herbaceous odor. Celery Seed Oil Spicy warm sweet, and rich soup like odor. Cinnamalva Powerful warm spicy oily slight floral. Cinnamic Aldehyde Warm spicy balsamic odor suggestive of cassia, cinnamon. C A Di Methyl Acetal Warm spicy, balsamic odor, cinnamon like. Cinnamon Leaf Oil Warm spicy rather harsh, lacks rich body of bark oil. CIS Jasmone Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral. Clove Bud Abs. An intensely warm powerful sweet clove spicy odor. Clove Bud Oil Warm, sweet clove odor. Clove Critical Sweet, clean clove spicy. Clove De Girofle Resin Abs. An extremely strong spicy, and herbaceous odor. Clove Leaf Decolorized Oil Has a typical clove odour. Clove Leaf Oil Harsh, woody and dry spicy odor. Clove Stem Oil Strong spicy somewhat woody, but quite pleasant odor. Clove Terpenes Oil Warm sweet spicy strong, typical clove odor. Coriander Oil Pleasant sweet somewhat woody spicy aromatic candy like. Coriander Essence Max A pungent spicy aromatic odor of coriander oil. Coriander Oil Russian Spicy and aromatic, very nice. Coumarin Sweet, warm, herbaceous, slightly spicy, dilution - hay like.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 265 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Coumarin Sub # 772A Almost oppressively cloying, more vanilla then herbaceous. Cubeb Oil Dry woody, but simultaneously warm camphoraceous spicy. Cumin Oil Extremely powerful diffusive green spicy, slightly fatty odor. Curruma Oil Spicy and fresh Rem of sweet orange, ginger & galganga oil. Cyclotene Sweet and very powerful, caramellic spicy odor, walnut mapple.

Dianthanol A spicy carnation floral rose compound. Di Hydro Iso Eugenol Warm spicy sweet slight floral balsamic odor.

Elemi Terpene, peppery lemon dilweed. Eugenol Powerful warm spicy balsamic. Eugenol Acetate Mild and sweet spicy balsamic.

Fennel Oil Bitter Sharp peppery, camphoraceous. Fennel Oil Sweet Sweet peppery, spicy. Flove Oil Intensely sweet, coumarin hay like heavy herbaceous odor.

Ginger Oil Warm fresh woody, spicy odor.

Heliotropine Sweet warm floral, slightly spicy, dilution - cherry pie.

Iso Eugenol Mild and sweet deep floral carnation like. Iso Eugenol # 6504 A sweet spicy warm floral odor of carnation very nice. Iso Eugenol Ethyl Acetal Spicy floral carnation like softer.

Methyl Amyl Ketone Penetrating fruity spicy light odor. Methyl Benzaldehyde Warm mildly floral sweet spicy odor of benzaldehyde. Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Powerful sweet herbaceous cinnamon spicy. Methyl Eugenol Peculiar musty tea like, warm mildly spicy. Methyl Iso Eugenol Sweet and warm mild floral tea like slightly spicy. Myrr Essence Warm balsamic, sweet somewhat spicy. Myrr Oil Warm spicy. Myrr Resinoid Intensely warm deep spicy. Myrtle Oil Rectified, Tunesia Distinct, spicy and camphoraceous.

Nutmeg Oil Fresh warm spicy.

Olibanol Highly balsamic and spicy. Opoponax Oil Possesses and intensely sweet balsamic spicy. Opoponax Resinoid Sweet aromatic reminiscent of spicy soups. Orange Des Indes 68A817 A nice clean fresh orange odor with a discreet spicy note.

Pepper Oil Black Fresh dry, woody warm spicy odor resembles dried pepper.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 266

Pimento Berries Oil Warm, spicy sweet odor. Pimento Leaf Oil Dry, woody warm spicy aromatic odor reminiscent of clove leaf.

Terpinyl Acetate Herbaceous sweet, refreshing spicy. Thyme Oil Red Rich sweet powerful, sweet warm herbaceous spicy. Thyme Oil White Sweeter then red oil. Thymol Crystals. Powerful sweet medicinal herbaceous warm spicy. Tonka Beans Abs. Sweet herbaceous slightly spicy. Tonkarinol Rich sweet warm distinctly coumarin.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 267 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrance’s - Oriental Spicy

ORIENTAL SPICY

Scents in this family can include combinations of spicy notes along with amber, vanilla, woods and resinous materials. Fine fragrances in this group can be on the heavy side, and long lasting.

Top Bergamot 6 %

Strawberry 1 %, Orange 5 %, Lemon 3 % Fruity Sweet

Mandarin 2 %, Basil 1 %, Peach 1 %

Middle Cinnamon 3 %

Carnation 4.5 %, Jasmin 5 %, Rose 5 % Spicy Floral Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 % Spice Notes 2 % Violet 3 %, Muguet 1.5 %, Pine 1 %, Lilac .5 %

Base Tonka 6 %

Opoponax 1 %, Myrrh 1 %, Musk 2 % Warm Spicy

Sandalwood 2 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 2% Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 268

Oriental Spicy # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Heliotropine 4 Pepperwood 17 Alicate 9 Cinnamon Leaf Oil - Sri. Lanka 28 Benzylsalicylate 6 Jasmolactone Extra C 22 Ethylene Brassylate 23 Orange Oil, Sweet 10 Opoponax Base .3 Tobacco Tincture 3 Thymoxane 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Suderal LT 8 Sandela 13 Terpinyl Acetate 6 Caryophylline 919 41 Lemon Italian Select ( Winter Crop ) 11 Myrrh Resinoid Washed 1 Suderal LT 15 Cinnamon Bark Substitute .2 Tea Tree Oil .1 Lichen 6 Benzaldehyde 33 Eugenol 4 Clove Oil, Rectified 27 Benzyl Acetate 9 Linalool 14 alpha Methyl Cinnamic Alcohol 1 Clemenflor 9 Lilial 3 Melon Oliffac 4 Bisabolene .1 Lavender Absolute 3 Tonka Resinoid 1 Nerol 12 Carnation Base 5 Methyl Diantilis 15 Hercolyn - D 3 Iso - Eugenol 4 Pepperwood 22 Linalyl Acetate 8 Thymol Crystals 3 Girofle Clove Oil 53 Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Cinnamon Leaf Ceylon FCC 306 Di Propileno Glico 2 Tangerinol 14 Ionone Alpha 60 9 Citronellol 12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000 6 Raspberry Ketone 72 Geraniol 4 Jasmin Egypt 45 Muguet Base 2 Piper Nigrum - Black Pepper 1 Anisaldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 7 Geranyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 269 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Oriental Spicy # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Acetate Iso Eugenol 9 Cinnamon Leaf Oil - Sri. Lanka 13 Coumarin Extra Pure 6 Jasmolactone Extra C 28 Benzylsalicylate 23 Orange Oil, Sweet 22 Ethylene Brassylate .3 Tobacco Tincture 10 Opoponax Base 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Thymol Crystals 6 Suderal HT 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 13 Terpinyl Acetate 8 Brahmanol 41 Lemon Italian Select ( Winter Crop ) 6 Caryophylline 919 1 Pimento Leaf 11 Myrrh Resinoid Washed .2 Tea Tree Oil 12 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 6 Benzaldehyde .1 Lichen 4 Clove Oil, Rectified 29 Eugenol 9 Linalool 31 Benzyl Acetate 1 Clemenflor 14 alpha Methyl Cinnamic Alcohol 3 Melon Oliffac 9 Lyral .1 Coriander Oil Russian 4 Caryophelline 1 Nerol 3 Tonka Resinoid 5 Dianthanol 12 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Carnaline 15 Benzoato Benzila 22 Linalyl Acetate 4 Poivre 125 3 Girofle Clove Oil 8 Thyme ( Thymol Type ) 1 Cinnamon Leaf Ceylon FCC 53 Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Tangerinol 306 Di Propileno Glico 14 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 9 Citronellol 1,000 12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 6 Raspberry Ketone 72 Geraniol 4 Jasmin Egypt 45 Muguet Base 2 Piper Nigrum - Black Pepper 1 Anisaldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 7 Geranyl Acetate 4 Pepperwood

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 270

Oriental Spicy # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Heliotropine 9 Cinnamon Leaf Oil - Sri. Lanka 11 Coumarin Substitute 2 Methyl Jasmonate 30 Benzyl Salicylate 23 Orange Oil Valencia ( Sweet ) 19 Galaxolide 50 .3 Tobacco Tincture 10 Opoponax Base 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Thymoxane 6 Suderal LT 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 13 Terpinyl Acetate 10 Brahmanol 45 Lemon Oil Washed 3 Caryophylline 919 1 Pimento Leaf 11 Myrrh Resinoid Washed .2 Tea Tree Oil 12 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 6 Benzaldehyde .1 Moss Oliffac 4 Clove Oil, Rectified 29 Eugenol 9 Linalool 34 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 1 Orange Aldehyde 12 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Melon Oliffac 9 Liral .1 Jasmine India Absolute 4 Bisabolene 1 Nerol Coeur 1 Tonka Resinoid 5 Methyl Diantilis 12 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Carnaline 15 Benzyl Benzoate 22 Linalyl Acetate 4 Poivre 125 3 Girofle Clove Oil 5 Caraway Oil - Holland 1 Cinnamon Leaf Ceylon FCC 49 Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Mandarinal 320 Di Propileno Glico 16 a - Irone 9 Citronellol 1,000 8 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 6 Raspberry Ketone 72 Geraniol 1 Jasmin Egypt 48 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Pepper Oil Black - India 1 Anisaldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 7 Geranyl Acetate 4 Safraleine

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 271 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Woody Fragrance Chemicals

Abalyn A weak piney woody odor. Allyl Ionone Oily sweet slight flowery, but also fruity woody bark like green. Aloe Vera Lupo Quinon Extract An extremely fine delicate ambergris sandalwood odor. Alpha Pinene Warm resinous, refreshing coniferious like. Ambergris T Oliffac Amber Amphermate Woody. Amyris Acetate Woody slightly sweet dry, fresh. Amyris Oil W.I. Faintly woody not dry.

Bacdanol Powerful sandalwood note. Beachwood Cresote Powerful and penetrating resembling that of smoked wood. Benteine A woody odor. Beta Pinene Dry, woody resinous piney. Birch Leaf Oil Pleasant woody green balsamic odor. Birch Tar Oil A phenolic tarry woody smoky leathery, diffusive material. Brahmanol A light sweet odor of sandalwood.

Cabreuva Oil Sweet woody very delicate slightly floral. Cade Oil Intense tar like smoky phenolic odor. Cadinene Mild, dry woody slightly medicinal tarry odor. Calamus Warm, woody spicy and pleasant odor. Cedarwood Alcohol A woody cedar type odor, a bit harsh. Cedarwood Oil Terpeneless Stronger woody cedar odor free from terpenes. Cedarwood Oil Texas Crude Pleasant sweet woody somewhat tar like odor. Cedarwood Oil Virginia Oily woody almost sweet mild pleasant, cedar chest like odor. Cedramber Refined woody, pleasantly green odor. Cedrene Woody, camphoraceous, somewhat dry green odor. Cedrenol Mild woody odor less dry more balsamic than cedrene. Cedrol Crystals Very faint odor of cedarwood type. Cedrenyl Acetate Faint fresh woody odor. Cedryl Acetate Woody slight leathery. Citronella Oil Ceylon Peculiar warm woody yet fresh grassy odor of wet leaves.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 272

Cortex Aldehyde Powerful green woody sap like, but fresh aldehydic sweet. Costus Oil Peculiar soft tenacious, reminiscent of old precious wood. Cubeb Oil Dry woody, but simultaneously warm camphoraceous spicy. Cypress Oil Pleasing smoky woody similar to amber.

Di Hydro Cuminyl Alcohol Warm, herbaceous slightly woody oily odor.

Fir Needle Balsam Resin A powerful diffusive pine forest type odor. Fir Needle Canadian Rich balsamic sweet, and pleasant oily pinaceous fragrance. Fir Needle Siberian Refreshing balsamic, slight fatty oily with Pw pine forest odor. Fixolide Sweet woody musky. Fleuroxene A strong green floral woody non descript odor.

Ginger Oil Sweet fresh woody spicy. Guaicol Powerful smoke like medicinal odor. Guaicwood Acetate Soft warm delicately sweet rosy woody odor. Gurjan Balsam Oil Mildly woody balsamic sweet odor.

Heptavert A green woody odor.

Ionone Beta More fruity, and woody like than alpha. Iraldeine Beta Woody warm odor. Iris Resin Deep sweet slightly woody tobacco like. Iso Cyclomene E Woody amber. Iso E Super Woody amber. Iso Longifolanone Fresh woody raw amber. Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A A fine sandalwood cedar complex quite natural.

Kephalis LRG - 1182 Woody amber complex. Koavone Woody floral complex with amber violet note. Kohinool A fine woody amber dry out.

Linalool Oxide Powerful sweet woody floral.

Menthanyl Acetate Fresh piney citrusy somewhat herbaceous. Menthol Racemic Similar to above more woody less sweet. Merion A diffusive oriental woody complex. Methyl Ionone Beta Woody warm odor. Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur Purer grade more woody, and warm. Methyl Ionone Gamma A A floral violet woody isomeric mixture. Methyl I G Supreme Floral woody fruity complex. Methyl Ionone Tails A harsh woody solvent masking odor. Methyl Ionone Terpenes Harsh woody solvent masking fragrance.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 273 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Mousse De Chenne Abs. Powerful clean oakmoss odor. Mousse De Metra Powder form of oakmoss. Moussyl 1055 A mossy balsamic type odor almost woody like very dry.

Nerolidyl Acetate Sweet woody and mildly refreshing green. Nopol Mild woody camphoraceous odor. Nopyl Acetate Sweet woody fruity odor. Norsdandyl 81157 A fine woody complex.

Orivone Very diffusive woody camphoraceous odor. Ortho Methyl Cinnamic Ald. Powerful sweet herbaceous woody camphoraceous. Osyrol Sandalwoody flowery woody note.

Parsley Seed Oil Warm woody sweet spicy. Patchone Extremely dry woody camphoraceous. Patchouli Dark Extremely rich sweet herbaceous aromatic spicy woody. Petitgrainol Intensely woody neroli note. Phenyl Acetaldehyde Powerful green wood sap like. Pine Oil Yarmor # 302 Fresh, harsh pine type. Polarsan Sandalwood.

Rosemary Oil Woody herbaceous, reiminiscent of spike lavender oil. Rose Nitrile Rich rose geranium woody iris.

Sandalore Sandalwood amyris woody type odor. Sandela Sandalwood. Sandalwood Essence Captures the sweetness and heart of sandalwood very nice. Sandalwood 77.125B Has the dry slightly sweet balsamic odor of amyris oil W.I. Sandalwood Oil East Indies Extremely soft sweet woody almost animal balsamic. Sandalwood Oil Australian Soft woody extremely tenacious and somewhat balsamic. Sandranol Woody, and extremely fine sandalwood compound last days. Santalum Citrinum Very pleasant sweet woody odor reminiscent of sandalwood.

Thiazyl Dry woody and Eau De Grouts character. Tree Moss Abs. A strong at the same time persistent moss odor. Trimofix Amber woody note with vetivert and smoky tobacco nuances. Turpentine SDW A woody solvent which is steam distilled.

Unipine 85 Fresh pine. Unipine 90 Fresh pine. Unitene D Piney lemony type odor.

Valanone B Warm woody odor.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 274

Vanoris Woody fruity, soft refreshing odor of mild orris type. Vertenex Sweet, animal creamy woody odor with a soft floral undertone. Vertofix Woody. Vetivert Oil Bourbon Woody, finest grade of vetivert oil.

Woodine Woody.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 275 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrance’s - Chypre Woody

CHYPRE WOODY

Top Lime 3 %

Grape 1 %, Apple 1 %, Orange 1 % Fruity Sweet

Bergamot 6 % - Dry, Strawberry - Trace, Cherry 2 %, Basil 3 %

Middle Veternex 19 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Hawthorn 3 %, Jasmin - Trace, Lilac - Trace Woody Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Carnation 2 % Base Sandalwood 10 %

Musk 5 %, Patchouli 1 %, Vanilla - Trace Warm

Iso E Super - 2 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 25 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 276

Chypre Woody # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

22 Iso E Super .1 Earth 1 Vanilla Resinoid 3 Methyl Anthranilate 40 Ethylene Brassylate 28 Geraniol 60 35 Phthalate Ethyle ‘D 2 Vetivert Acetate 114 Sandalwood Extender 3 Pheny Ethyl Acetate 7 Patchouli Light 1 Guaiyl Acetate 10 Benzyl Salicylate 25 Linalool 8 Javanol 1 Massada 3 Heliotropin .1 Aldehyde C - 10 7 Acetate Cedrenila 1 Verdox 5 Bacdanol 1 Santalyl Acetate 4 Lyral 8 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate 18 Benzyle Acetate 11 Orange Oil Sweet 15 alpha - Amyl Cinnami Aldehyde 1 Cedarwood Oil Virginia 5 Syringa .1 Methyl Cinnimate 6 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 17 Linalyl Acetate 163 Vertenex 4 Eugenyl Acetate 8 Phnyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Lime AB 402 14 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Oranger Crystals 15 Iso Eugenol Substitute 2 Fir Douglas 8 Osyrol 2 Waxberry Aldehyde 6 Anisic Aldehyde 4 Ionone Beta 4 Citronellol 850 2 Amyris Oil - Haiti 7 Valanone B 3 Lavender Oliffac 9 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 277 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Bisabolene 1,000 2 Merillol 1 Rose Crystals 5 Sandalwood Mysore 18 Benzaldheyde 24 Dihydromyrcenol 1 OJ Carbinyl 3 Merion 2 Base 3 .3 Aldeido C - 12 MNA 11 Verdyl Propionate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 277 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Woody # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

15 Iso & Super 11 Orange Oil Brazilian Distilled 9 Patchouli MD 21 Dimetol 11 Benzyle Salicylate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 1 Cade Crude 6 Lime Oils ( c.p. / dist. ) 3 Vanillin 1 Earth 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Aldehyde C - 10 87 Sandalwood Substitute 3 Litsea Cubeba Oil 6 Heliotropine 3 Verdox 48 Galaxolide Artessence 41 Linalool 19 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Orange Crystals .1 Birch Tar Oil rectofoed .1 Celery Essence 7 Cedrenyl Acetate 9 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate 2 Vanillin, ethyl 7 Methyl Anthranilate 16 Supercepionate 3 Aldeido C - 16 4 Vetamber 16 Benzaldehyde 25 Aubepine .1 Rose Wood Oil 157 Vertenex - IBCH Acetate 1 Santalol .1 Mousse Essence Abs. 2 Methyl Ionone Beta 17 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 18 Linalyl Acetate 15 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Drywood Augaflor 16 9 Citronellol 4 Lavender Oliffac 1 Tonalid II .1 Violet Leaves 3 Coniferan 1 Azarbe 2 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 278 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 14 Geraniol 1,000 3 Bisabolene 8 Methyl Ionone Beta 27 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Terpineol 2 Lindenol 1 OJ Carbinyl 4 Hexyl Salicylate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 14 Verdyl Propionate 1 Piconia

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 278

Chypre Woody # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

103 Sandalwood Oil Substitute 3 Apple Oliffac 1 Amberwood 5 Vertofix Coeur 35 Phthalate D’Ethyle 7 Methyl Ionone Beta .1 Moss ( Lichen ) .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 9 Alpha Pinene 37 Linalool Nat. 12 Benzyl Salicylate 22 Dihydromyrcenol 11 Iso E Super .1 Folione 48 Galaxolide Artessence 1 Methyl Chamomile 87 ( IBCH - Acetate ) 10 Verdyl Propionate 9 Sandalo Indie .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 8 Cedrenyl Acetate 4 Methyl Anthranilate 13 Amil Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Tonalid I 11 Patchouly Indonesia Oil .2 Violet Oil MF 2 Vanilina 2 Orange Bigarade California 1 Cade Oil rectified 14 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate 6 Jasphene 1 Cinnamon Leaves 9 Terpineol Prime 22 Linalyl Acetate 16 Kephalis .4 Fir Needle - Canada 4 Hysimal 2 Terpinyl Acetate 10 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Benzaldehyde 3 Valanone B 3 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 12 Citronellol 1 Fir Balsam Oreton 1 Ethyl Vanisal 9 Oranger Crystals 1 Bisabolene 12 Lime Oil Roses Type 12 Cepionate .5 Meranol 23 Geraniol 80 2 Pearlate 18 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 296 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 22 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1,000 1 Base # 3 - Givaudan 22 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 25 Anisic Aldehyde 3 OJ Carbinyl 1 Strawberry pure .1 Phenylacetaldehyde

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 279 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE WOODY

Top Bergamot 6 % - Fruity

Jasmin, Rose, Violet Notes Floral Fruity

Pear - Trace

Middle Lyral 8 %

Violet 1 %, Jasmin 6 %, Rose 5 % Floral

Muguet 2 %, Carnation - Trace

Base Musk 12 %

Bacdanol 3 % Sandalwood 12 %, Patchouli 3 %, Tonka 3 % Woody Cedramber 1.5 % Vanilla 3 %, Tolu Balsam 3 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 % Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 280

Chypre Woody # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Bacdanol .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 28 Patchouli 4 Ionone Beta 103 Galaxolide Artessence 22 Linalol S 97 26 Di Hydro Coumarex 1 Black Agar Givco 215 4 Iso E Super 1 Kephalis 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DP) 1 Muguet Alcohol 1 Amber Core 1 Thuja Wood Oil 9 Bacdanol 9 Pin de Siberle AN 12 Hydroxy Citronellal .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 106 Sandalwood Substitute 14 Vetiver Oil - Viet Nam 9 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 7 Methyl Iso Eugenol 3 Chandalone 12 Alpha Pinene 15 Vanillin 33 Linalyl Acetate 6 Coniferan .1 Styrax Essence 8 Benteine .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate Substitute 3 Eugenol 4 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 1 Jessemal 3 Woodynol - II 4 Kephalis 11 Terpineol 7 Tolu Balsam Resinoid 1 Citronellyl Acetate 12 Citronellol 96 % 1 Verdantiol 63 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Lioral 1 Methyl Iso Eugenol 5 Pine Oil 25 Geraniol 3 Orris Givco 204/2 6 Cedrenyl Acetate 270 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 9 Ethyl Vanillin 1,000 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 8 Lyral 3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Sandela 45 Hedione 4 Beta Ionone For Soap .1 Guaiaicol 13 Cedarwood Oil Texas Light .1 Phenylacetaldehyde 1 Eugenyl Acetate 1 Glycolierral

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 281 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Woody # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Benzoato Benzila 6 Ionone For Soap 28 Sandela 1 Trimofix 19 Etilen Brasilato 14 Ethyl Linalool 3 Rose Crystals 5 Vetyver Java 14 Vanillin 3 Fir Needle Silver 32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Methyl Ionones 75 Traseolide 700 Base 4 Cedryl Acetate 6 Labdanum Resinoid 50 % / DPG 3 Jessemal 1 Tonkarinol 1 Santalyl Acetate 14 Oak Base 3 Karnal 9 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Citronellyl Acetate 3 Anthamber Premium .1 Merion 27 Cumarine 1 Piconia 11 Cedarwood Texas 1 Base 3 14 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol 6 Galaxolide 50 DEP 2 Drywood Augaflor 8 23 Pachouli Oil Light 3 Hydroxyciol 9 Cedramber 1 Massada 7 Pine Needles Oil - Siberia 9 Lavener Oil 40/42 8 Citronellol 850 15 Pine Scotch Oil 17 Lindenol 1 Wealdwood ABQ 7019 4 Javanol 4 Birch - USA 43 Geraniol 60 .1 Woodamber - SA 3 Sandalwood 27 Linalyl Acetate 5 Tolu Balsam Resinoid 309 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000 8 Iris Beurre Oil 3 Black Agar Givco 215 104 Sandalwood Extender 58 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 3 Blue Cypress 1 English Leather Base

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 282

Chypre Woody # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

17 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 1 Hydroxy Extra 5 Patchouly - Indonesia 1 Aubepine .1 Oakmoss Givco 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketome 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 17 Ionone Beta 7 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 48 Traseolide 700 Base 5 Jasmonyl Acetate 88 Sandalwood Substitute 3 Diola 18 Vanillin .1 Folione 9 Benteine 2 Dianthanol 25 Cou Marin 2 Santalyl Acetate 7 Alpha Pinene 5 Amyris Oil W.I. 11 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 14 Osyrol 1 Costus Oliffac 13 Tolu Balsam Resinoid .2 Pivarose 6 Citronellol Prime 1 Styrax Essence 125 Sandalwood Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate Pure 98 % 4 Jasmin Benzola 4 Massada .1 Alcohol C - 8 2 Sandenol 1 Jivanti 5 Iso Eugenyl Acetate 47 Acetato De Bencilo 1 Irival 1 Di Methyl Octanol 2 Guaiyl Acetate 6 Iso Eugenol Replacement 4 Sandiff 4 Kephalis .1 Rose Templar 3 Iso Bornyl Acetate 11 Jasmin Province Base 306 Di Propileno Glico 1,000 9 Lyrame 4 Heliotropine 35 Gernaiol 6 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 14 Ethyl Vanillin .1 Labdanum Resinoid 1 Rose Acetate .1 Blanca Flor 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 25 Ethyl Linalool 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 283 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE WOODY

Top Bergamot 5 % - Dry

Peach 1 %, Green Notes, Pear Fruity

Violet Note

Middle Jasmin 1 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Muguet 4 %, Carnation 1 %, Rose 3 % Floral Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 % Lily 1 %, Cedarwood 3 %

Base Sandalwood 25 %

Tonka 1 %, Vetiver 14 %, Patchouli 1 % Warm & Sweet

Musk 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 284

Chypre Woody # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Cashmeran 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute 8 Hexyl Salicylate 1 Drywood Augaflor 206 Sandalwood Extender 6 Di Hydro Coumarex 1 Benzophenone 3 Methyl Ionone Beta 18 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Benzophenone .1 Evernyl 2 Ocimene PQ 9 Patchouli - J.Piltz 1 Guaiyl Acetate 4 Amyris Sandalwood Oil - Haiti 17 Linalyl Acetate 3 Cedrenyl Acetate 4 Aldeido C - 14 10 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Bangalo 31 Benzyl Acetate 1 Costus Oliffac 4 Sandalwood Oliffac 5 Ionone Beta 18 Eugenol 3 Piconia 7 Methyl Octlactone 2 Vetiver Redistilled 91 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Sandalore 1 Piconia .3 Geranium Oil E 27 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Cedryl Acetate Liquid 5 Methyl Cedryl Ketone .1 Phenylacetaldehyde 2 Osyrol 1 Rhodiaflor SB 4 Lavender Clonal .2 Santalox 244 M 73 Vetiver Extender 3 Pine Oil White 9 Ionone Beta 1 Folia SA 12 Oak Base 1 Massada 3 Citronellol 1,000 1 Pine Nigare 284 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 27 Rose Substitute 11 Geraniol 98 1 Labdanum Resinoide 9 Benzyl Alcohol 14 Galaxolide .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 26 Linalol Coeur 1 Madrox 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 285 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Woody # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Cinnamic Alcohol 9 Peach pure - Givaudan 11 Coumarin crist. 14 Vertofix Coeur 49 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 8 Sandalwood Oliffac 18 Linalyl Acetate 7 Patchouli China 1 Geranium Oil Algerian FCC 175 Sandalwood Extender 4 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 6 Traseolide 1 Vetiver Acetate 12 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 3 Jessemal 29 Cedarwood 1 Citronellyl Acetate 8 Benteine 4 Dihydrocoumarin 9 Amil Cinamico Aldeido 2 Majantal - IFF .1 Mousse De Metre 5 Turpentine Oil SDW 11 Cepionate 6 Clary Sage Oil - Hungary 3 Leather LWS - 3768 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 103 Vetiver Extender 4 Santalex T 8 Osyrol 1 Merion 5 Sandenol China 25 Linalol 1 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 3 Nectaryl 12 Oak Base .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 1 Para Cresyl redistilled 1 Drywood Augaflor 8 66 Muguet Base .1 Geraniol 600 24 Cedarwood Oil Virginia 2 Massada 3 b - Ionone .1 Rose Otto, Bulgaria 8 Citronellol 1 Mirabelle 2000 D 285 Di Propileno Glico .1 Styrax 4 Iso E Super 1 Rose Crystals 1 Abies Alba Oil - Bulgaria 1,000 22 Geraniol 5 Cedrenyl Acetate 3 Galbanolide 1 Labdanum Resinoid 1 Costus Oliffac .3 Aldeido C - 12 MNA

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 286

Chypre Woody # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Iso Bornyl Crystals .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 21 Musk 50 BB 5 Turpentine rectified 1 Vertimoss 4 Nectaryl 2 Brahmanol F 1 Geranium over Roses 7 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Rose Oxide L 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Ocimenyl Acetate 1 Benzophenone .2 Base R 924 35 Vertenex - IBCH Acetate 3 Methyl Cedrylone 1 Sandalmysore Coeur 1 Rosemary Moroccan 9 Cedarwood Leaf Oil 1 Costus Oliffac 14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Massada 3 Cedraclaire 4 Vetyver China 1 Tonalid II .1 Aldheyde C - 12 Lauric 127 Vertofix Coeur 3 y - Irone 1 Massada 5 Lavender Oil - Bulgaria 25 Vetiver Extender 3 Santal Oil & Resinoid MF 1 Benzyl Iso Eugenol 903 9 Ionone For Soap 11 Citronellol 96 % 1 Fixateur 404 105 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Muguet Alcohol 28 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldheyde 4 Diola 81 Sandalwood Substitute 1 Costus 320 3 Para Cresyl redistilled 38 Geraniol Pure 6 Terpineol Prime 1,000 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 309 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Patchone 3 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 5 Tuberose Substitute 17 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 9 Eugenol 1 Styrallylacetate 6 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 3 Cedro ( Arvere ) 14 Peach Pure - Givaudan 3 Iso - Eugenol 1 Santalyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 287 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE WOODY

Top Bergamot 5 %

Orange 7 %, Lemon 3 %, Lime 4 % Fruity

Basil 8 % - Fruity

Middle Woody 16 %

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3% Lilac 13 %, Rose 5 %, Muguet 2 % Woody Sweet Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3.5 % Oranger Crystals .75 % Lavender 2 %

Base Musk 4 %

Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood 2 %, Moss - Trace Sweet

Vanilla - .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 % Benzyl Benzoate 1% Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 25 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 288

Chypre Woody # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Bacdanol 5 Hexyl Salicylate 11 Benzyl Alcohol FR 17 Verdyl Propionate 9 Helional 4 Laurel Bay Oil 16 Sandalwood Extender 2 Guaiyl Acetate 12 Benzyl Benzoate 73 Orange Guinea 2 Oranger Crystals .2 Aldehyde C - 111 Lenic 19 Traseolide 700 Base 1 Birch Sweet Southern Oil 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Mandarin Artessence 1 Mousse De Metre 18 Lavender China Oil 3 Cade Rectified Oil 7 Dimetol 75 Iso Butyl Cyclo Hexyl Acetate 31 Linalyl Acetate S 96 4 Cedrenyl Acetate 14 Verdyl Acetate 25 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Sweet Pea 11 Benzylsalicylate 1 Bangalol 14 Cedarwood Oil Port Orford 3 Lime Oil Distilled Peru 6 Sandalore .5 Fir Needle Siberia - Russia 38 Vetiver Extener 24 Lemon Italian 1 Rosone 3 Methyl Cedrylone 83 Lilac Base 5 Ionone Beta Coeur 3 Woodinyl Acetate 6 Citronellol 3 Iridals 1,000 269 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 Rosmarina Offinalis 23 Geraniol 1 Ionone For Soap 9 Methyl Lavender Ketone 3 Laurel Leaf Morocco 1 Santal - India .3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico 11 Menthanyl Acetate 9 Oak Base 22 Linalool 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 289 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Woody # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Alcool Benzilico 71 Sweet Orange Spruce Oil 28 Traseolide 700 Base 17 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate 1 Amborate 28 Dihydromyrcenol 3 Patchouli Augalflor 22 .1 Tea - Tree 12 Coumane .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Ocimenyl Acetate 7 Iso & Super 4 Diola 1 Cade Crude ( Juniperus ) 8 Menthanyl Acetate 8 Alpha Pinene 3 Woodynol - II 17 Osyrol 15 Verdyl Acetate 72 Vertenex - IBCH Acetate .1 Cedarwood Essence 4 Cedrenyl Acetate 6 Dimetol 5 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 1 Fire 113 Lilac Base 25 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 1 Cedro ( Folha ) 6 Vetiver Acetate 4 Methyl Lavender Ketone 3 Costus Root Oil 2 Oranger Crystals 1 Labdanum Resinoid - Siam 33 Vertofix Coeur 5 Fir Needle Oil 19 Cedarwood Oil, Chinese .1 Rose Oxide L 6 Koavone 1 Black Agar Givco 215 4 Traseolide 4 Iris 1 Rosone 2 Santalyl Acetate 3 Fixateur 404 .1 White Rose 1 Pimento 2 Cedre Atlas Maroc 282 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 6 Citronellol 5 Iso Bornyl Acetate 1,000 .1 Folione 38 Geraniol 98 % 1 Thuja Wood Oil 35 Lemon Oil - Spain 1 White Thyme Oil 6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Amyris Oil 25 Hexyl Salicylate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 290

Chypre Woody # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Powder # 1a 3 y - Irone 1 Amber Base .4 Oranger Crystals 43 Galaxolide 4 Fir Balsam 41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Mandarin Oil Red 9 Coumarin 6 Ionone Beta 6 Patchouly Oil 3 Labdanum Resnoid 50 % / DPG 8 Tonalid II 32 Verdyl Propionate 43 Vertofix Coeur 14 Linalol S 97 9 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Santalyl Acetate 16 Sandela 1 Guaiyl Acetate - IFF 23 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Menthanyl Acetate 11 Vetamber 53 Orange Oil, Sweet 16 Alpha Pinene 17 Verdyl Acetate 64 Vertenex Coeur .1 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 15 Cedarwood Oil Texas 6 Ocimene PQ 4 Helional 4 Turpentine Oil 3 Etilen Brassilate 3 Dimetol 8 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 27 Linalyl Acetate 9 Citronellol .1 Jessate 29 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Vetiverol 1 Jessemal .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 1 Woodynol II 1 Anisaldehyde 27 Geraniol 3 Fixateur 404 101 Lilac Base 5 Levenalis 5 Hydroxycitronellal For Soap 10 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 261 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 .1 Cedryl Acetate Crystals 6 Methyl Ionone Beta 3 Iso Bornyl Crystals 1 Massada 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 1 Verotyl 22 Hexyle Salicylate 1 Cade, Rectified

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 291 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Moss, Amber, & Tobacco Fragrance Chemicals

Moss AB311 Powerful, decolorized moss. Moss AB311D Contains more colour stable mosses. Moss Oliffac Very tenacious oak moss odor as found growing on your forest tree. Free from coloring problems. Mousse B Resin Abs. Oakmoss. Mousse B Solide Resinoid Oakmoss. Mousse C Savon Resinoid Oakmoss. Mousse De Arbe Abs. Woody dry forest like, or seaweed like, herbaceous green. Mousse De Arbe Resinoid Treemoss. Mousse De Cevennes Oakmoss. Mousse De Chene Oakmoss. Mousse De Chene Abs. Powerful clean oakmoss odor. Mousse De Chene Abs. Oakmoss. Mousse De Chene Abs. Moroc Oakmoss. Mousse De Chene Abs. Yugo Oakmoss. Mousse De Chene Morocco Very tenacious oakmoss odor. Mousse De Mer FM1062 Effervescent, fresh, sea moss, interesting whiskey and ginger note. Mousse De Metra Powder form of oakmoss. Mousse Essence Abs. Typical treemoss odor. Mousse 27/30 Oakmoss. Moussyl 1055 A mossy balsamic type odor almost wood like very dry.

Tree Moss Abs. A strong and at the same time persistent moss odor. Tree Moss Abs. C ' Less M.D. A powerful mossy type odor which lasts days on the blotter. Tree Moss C ' Less L.C. A diffusive tree moss woody odor.

Amber

Ambafix AB549 Musky, tobacco, animalic fixative base, amber. Amber AB472 Warm, sweet slightly animalic, amber. Amberlyx AB2000 Powerful, rich amber base. Amberwood ABQ5583 Woody, amber complex. Amborate Delicate woody amber character.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 292

Amboryl Acetate Woody, with a delicate tenacious woody amber character. Ambrasol AB455 Cost effective, animalic, amber base. Ambre 140 BSA Very powerful amber and woody note. Ambrox D - L Coeur Very faint amber odor. Ambrox 10 % Powerful and elegant amber note with discreet rich woodiness.

Tobacco

Ambafix AB549 Musky, tobacco, animalic fixative base, amber.

Cade Oil Intense tar like smoky phenolic odor.

Frescolat Faint minty somewhat reminiscent of tobacco and camomile.

Gamma Hexalactone Warm powerful herbaceous sweet, tobacco like.

Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso Precious wood tobacco, creamy violet.

Styrax Coeur Tobacco, dewy, resinous balsamic.

Tabac Balkan Dec. Abs. Strong almost repulsive faintly reminiscent of cigar tobacco. Tabac Noir Abs. Warm aromatic intense odour of tobacco. Tabanon Warm, dry sweet tobacco like with good fixation. Tetra Hydro Para Methyl Is frequently used in traces for artificial civet bases and in heavy oriental com Quinoline positions. It produces honey, tobacco and animal notes also giving excellent f fixation. The/Res Inc ( Tea ) Resinoid Warm and reminiscent of tobacco. Tobacarol Woody, amber, spicy tobacco. Tobacco Abs. A diffusive material reminiscent of fresh tobacco leaves.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 293 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrance’s - Chypre Coniferous

CHYPRE CONIFEROUS

Top Rosemary 1 %

Lavender 5 %, Bregamot 6 % - Dry, Lemon 2 % Herbaceous

Sage .5 %

Middle Pine 8 %

Rose 3 %, Violet 4 %, Jasmin 5 % Floral Woody

Base Fir 3 %, Carnation 4 %, Turpentine 1 %

Sandalwood 3 %

Cedarwood 1 %, Musk 3 %, Leather 1 % Woody

Amber 1 %, Benzoin .5 %, Birch Tar Oil - Trace, Earth - Trace Bases: English Leather Base, Sandalwood Extender, Organic Shampoo Base, Oak Base, Iso Eugenol Replacement Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 1 % Benzyl Alcohol 1 % Benzyl Salicylate 1 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 26 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 294

Chypre Coniferous # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzoato Benzila 3 Santalyl Acetate 28 Sandalwood Extender .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 25 Galaxolide 50 1 Cade 41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Folione .1 Cade Oil 1 Girofle Feuilles 6 English Leather Base 22 Lemon Mexico 1 Ambrofix .5 Aldehdo C - 12 Laurico 8 Cedrenyl Acetate 53 Lavender 40/42 11 Benzyl Alcohol FR 1 Irone V 14 Alpha Pinene 3 Cedryl Acetate 5 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 11 Pine Needles Oil - Siberia 19 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 29 Linalol .1 Iso Butyl Quinoline 1 Sandalwood Oliffac 13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Ionone Beta 8 Organic Shampoo Base 3 Turpentine Oil SDW 35 Cepionate 2 Amyl Salicylate 107 Acetate Iso Bornila 3 Cedarwood Oil Texas Light 5 Black Agar Givco 215 19 Linalyl Acetate 22 Vertofix 4 Eucalyptus Radiata 14 Beta Pinene 7 Syringa 2 Indisan .1 Artemisia Morocco Essence 7 Kephalis 3 Polysantol 11 Oak Base .7 Jessemal 29 Ionone Alpha White Coeur 9 Citronellol 1 Rootanol 100 1,000 42 Carnation Base 281 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Suderal LT 5 Resinoide Labdanum 9 Fir Needle Oil Canada 27 Geraniol 4 Sage Oil Clary 11 Citrus Lavender Base .1 Methyl Cinnimate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 295 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Coniferous # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Piperonyl Acetate 11 Benzyle Benzoate 3 Trimofix “O” 4 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 5 Gyrane 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 7 Methyl Anthranilate 94 Sandalwood Extender 6 Clary Sage Bulgarian 7 Cedryl Acetate 50 % 21 Verdyl Propionate 1 Ambermor 3 Piconia 9 Alpha Pinene .1 Alcohol C - 10 4 Bisabolene 1 Terpineol 12 Salicylate De Benzyle .1 Violet Leaf 1 Aniba Rosaeodora 3 Greanodyle 35 Musk 50 DPG 1 Methyl Chamomile 113 Acetato Iso Bornila .1 Strawberry Aldehyde 21 Geraniol 98 % 19 Linalyl Acetate 17 IBCH - Acetate 4 Apple Oliffac 4 Cuir de Rosse 2 Orange Crystals 1 Kephalis 1 Vanillyl Alcohol 21 alpha Amyl Cinamic Aldehyde 5 Aurantiol 1 Ionone Beta 23 Orange Oil, sweet 7 Citronellol Prime 14 Verdyl Acetate 3 Suderal LT 1 Meranol 11 Beta Pinene 9 Lime Base 400 21 Hedione 17 Fir Needle, Canada 18 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 31 Linalool 20 Anisaldehyde PQ 1 Rose Crystals 26 Lilial 1,000 251 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 13 Eugenol .3 Aldehyde C - 12MNA 4 Patchouli 29 Dihydromyrcenol 18 Benzaldehyde .1 Rose Oxide R 3 OJ Carbinyl .3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 296

Chypre Coniferous # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

13 Sandalwood Super Eco 6 Irone Alpha Refined 4 Di Hydro Coumarex 35 Linalol 9 Benzyle Salicylate 8 Vetiver Oil - Hairi 17 Musecone 24 Benzaldehyde 4 Vanilla Inco 3 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 11 Patchouli Dark OE 2 Borneol Iso Pure 31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Helional 21 Vetamber .1 3 - Octyl Acetate 3 Cedryl Acetate 1 Dorina SA 27 Amil Cinnamico Alddeido .1 Aldehyde C - 10 4 Cedar Atlantica Oil 19 Orange Oil Sweet - Sicilian 149 Iso Bornyl Acetate 20 Di Hydro Myrcenol 1 Ethyl Vanillin 15 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate 9 Cashmeran .1 Neroline 3 Irone V 4 Petunial 2 Hawthron 9 Di Ethyl Malonate 25 Aldeido Hexil Cinamico 3 Litsea Cubeba Oil 19 Vertenex 5 Basil Commores Oil 13 Ionone Beta 3 Chandalyn AB 1513 1 Alpha Fenchyl Alcohol 2 Berryflor 21 Pine Oil 907 1 Vanillin Acetate 3 Safraleine 1 Jasmonyl Acetate 1 Labdanum Resinoid 35 MDJ 2 Citronellol 1,000 .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 296 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 25 Carnation Base 35 Geraniol Pure 9 Alpha Pinene 22 Sandela 16 Linalyl Acetate .1 OJ Carbinyl .1 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 1 Strawberry Aldehyde

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 297 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Leather Fragrance Chemicals

Birch Tar Oil Powerful phenolic, tarry woody smoky, leathery. Birch Tar Oil Distilled A tenacious woody smoky leathery quite diffusive. Birch Tar Oil Rectified A phenolic tarry woody smoky leathery, diffusive material.

Cade Oil Intense tar like smoky phenolic odor. Castoreum Abs. Warm animal leather like sweet odor. Castorium Abs. C ' Less Strong and warm resembles birch tar oil, leather like. Castoreum Abs. 50 BB Rich animal leather note extracted from beaver castors. Castoreum Givco 116 Castoreum Givco is a reconstitution of the natural oil, which it can replace in equal amounts. This reconstitution contains only synthetic ingredients and plant-based naturals. It reflects all the typical warm, animal, leather-like notes and is a highly interesting note for use in chypre, tobacco, leather and fougère types. Castoreum Hyper Abs. Very powerful warm animal like scent. Castoreum Oliffac An economical consistent quality substitute for castoreum. Castoreum 172 SA Warm, animal, leather like sweet odor with distinct smoky note. Castoreum Resin Strong and warm resembling birch tar oil. Castoreum Resin Synthetic Excellent reproduction of the natural material. Castoreum Resinoid Strong and warm leather like sweet odor of the beaver. Castoreum Tincture A alcoholic prepared extract of the castoreum beaver quite characteristic of the natural product. Castorium Synthetic 172 SAB A very strong sweet animal odor typical of the beaver. Castorium 10 " Pauls " Tenacious and warm birch tar like phenolic. Castorium Tincture Warm animal leather like sweet odor. Cedrafix Woody, cedar, leather. Cedryl Acetate Woody slight leathery with earthy undertone resembles vetiver.

Di Ispropyl Phenol (DIP) Has a faint hydrocarbon phenolic type odor.

Hydrocarbon Resin S B Balsamic leather.

Iso Butyl Quinoline Used in chypre, leather and woody compositions. It is widely used in masculine colognes where its vibrant, intense leather character

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 298

can be used to great advantage. Powerful and long lasting.

Leather Base FM1064 Fine leather goods, woody, animalic undertones. Leather Base FM1064B More economical quality less costly then Leather Base FM1064. Leather 3768 - LWS A powerful diffusive leather fragrance.

Suederal HT Concentrated true leather odor reminiscent of finest tanned hides. Suederal LT Leather odor reminiscent of finest tanned hides with a lighter note.

2, 6, Xylenol Sweet rooty odor of leather.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 299 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrance’s - Chypre Leather

CHYPRE LEATHER

Top Tangerine 2 %

Lime 1 %, Pineapple 1 %, Tangerine 2 %, Fruity

Bergamot 1 %

Middle Rose 3 %

Vertofix 5 % Jasmin 4 %, Carnation 1.5 %, Muguet 5 % Floral Iso E Super 5 % Amyl Salicylate .5 % Violet 3 %

Base Musk 7 %

Black Agar Resin 1 %, Tonka 1.5 % Sweet Leather

Leather 1.5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 1 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 300

Chypre Leather # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Birch Tar Oil rectified 8 Pine Oil 907 6 Tonalid .1 Birch White Rett Essence 11 Benzoato Benzila 6 Amyl Salicylate 3 Acetatyl Iso Eugenol 9 Lavender 40/42 15 Coumarin 53 Linalol S 97 27 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 8 Vetivert Oil - Bourbon 42 Iso E Super 3 Tangerinol 9 Sandalwood 1 Ionone 6 English Leather Base 1 Carnaline 4 Cedryl Acetate 50 .1 Fir Balsam Artessence 7 Koavonne 5 Methyl Cedryl Ketone For Soap 28 Di Isopropyl Phenol 1 Musk Emeressence 63 Galaxolide 4 Iso - Eugenol 38 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 1 Ambermor 7 Black Agar Givco 215 .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate 1 Cade Oil 2 Florhydral 14 Eugenol 4 Bangalol 45 Vetiver Extender 69 Linalyl Acetate 3 Labdanum Resinoide 4 Dimetol 8 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 13 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 6 Citronellol FCC 1 Fixateur 404 9 Organic Shampoo Base 3 Santalyl Acetate 13 Ionone Beta 12 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 22 Geraniol 98 8 Woodynol - I 7 Fir Balsam Canada 1,000 303 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 29 Acetato Iso Bornila 8 Lindenol 7 Dihydromyrcenol .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA 17 Taqngerine Brazil 4 Lilial 11 Lavender Citrus Base

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 301 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Leather # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

27 Di Iso Propyl Phenol ( DIP ) .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA .1 Civet Tincture 9 Di Hydro Myrcenol .1 Cade Oil rectified .1 Linden Blossom 19 Coumarin Substitute 8 Vetiveryl Acetate Popular 10 Black Agar Givco 215 7 Lindenol 14 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Anandol 9 Fresh Pineapple 9 Cedryl Acetate 50 % .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric .1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 8 Cedarwood Chinese 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Rootanol 100 7 Cuir de Russe .1 Aldehyde C - 11 48 Vertofix Coeur 4 Labdanum Resinoid 7 Benzoin Siam # 2 12 Florhydral 49 Vertofix Coeur 7 Benzyle Acetate 16 Pine Oil 900 5 Tangerine 23 Leather LWS - 3768 .8 Iridales 5 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 3 Jasmonyl Acetate 9 Citronellol 6 Suderal LT 7 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 1 Corps Pamplemousse 1 Methyl Amyl Ketone 2 Liguvert ABQ 7061 8 Givescone .1 Anise Essence 13 Eugenol 100 % 3 Timberol 23 Geraniol 80 67 Linalyl Acetate 11 Methyl Ionone Beta 323 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 9 Hydrocarbon Resin SB 1,000 3 Cedrol Texas 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Atralone 6 Kephalis 53 Galaxolide Artense 39 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 42 Linalol .1 Folione 8 Levenalis

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 302

Chypre Leather # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Birch Oil, Tar Rectified 1 Tangerinol 6 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid .1 Tea Tree Oil 23 2, 6 Xylenol 8 Lavender Oil 40/42 12 Benzyle Benzoate 3 Vetiveryl Acetate 5 Cedryl Acetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 43 Phthalate D’Ethyle 1 Valarian Root Oil 9 Benzyl Salicylate 10 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 14 Coumarin Pure 1 Teak 10995 23 Di Isopropyl Phenol 23 Citrus Retiulata - Tangerine 3 Rose Crystals 14 Suderal LT 10 Black Agar Givco 215 61 Linalol 9 Vetamber 3 Serenolide 4 Suderal LT 9 Di Hydro Myrcenol 25 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Rosemary Leaves Oil 3 Base 3 4 Styrax Resinoide 42 Acetate De Benzyle 2 Turpentine SDW 29 Vetiver Extender .1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 4 Ionone For Soap 73 Linalyl Acetate Pure 2 Labdanum Resinoide 1 Methyl Camomile 48 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Santalum Citrinum 11 Citronellol 1 Carnaline 35 Musk Gx 50 % BB 2 Benzyl Iso Eugenol Forte 4 Di Metil Octanol 1 Poivre 125 12 Eugenol .1 Sage Oil Dalmatian 30 % 7 Iso & Super 20 Geraniol 328 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000 3 Myraldyl Acetate 1 Symmusk 4 Ionone Beta 32 Iso E Super 7 Ocimene PQ 1 Basil Oil Sweet - USA .1 Zedemina Essence 3 Mysoriff .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 303 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrance’s - Chypre Fresh

CHYPRE FRESH

A chypre fresh concept can include notes of sage, lavender, oakmoss, patchouli and resins. The scents have a woodsy outdoor feel reminiscent of the forest.

Top Bergamot 6 %

Jasmin .5 %, Ylang Ylang .5 %, Grape 1 % Fresh Floral

Green Notes

Middle Muguet 2 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2.5 % Violet 8 %, Jasmin 7 %, Rose 6 % - Fruity Floral Amyl Salicylate 1 % Verdantiol 1 % Vetiver 4 %, Lavender 1 % Methyl Benzoate .5 % Patchouli 1.5 % Base Tonka 4 %, Sandalwood 3 %, Moss - Trace Warm Spicy

Musk 3 %, Opoponax - Trace, Myrrh - Trace Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 3 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 304

Chypre Fresh # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

39 Coumarin Pure 4 Styrallyl Acetate 14 Pogostemon Cablin 5 Aurantiol 24 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Lavender Bulgaria Oil 3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 3 DMBC - Acetate 1 Mousse De Metre 4 Carnaline 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 27 Osyrol 3 Vanilla Beans 32 Galaxolide 50 5 Methyl Anthranilate 1 Iso - Eugenol 1 Rose Acetate 23 Amyl Cinnamic Alehyde - KAO 8 Bergamote Italy 9 Armoise Tunisian 6 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 5 Opoponax Base 4 Methyl Benzoate 10 Amyl Salicylate 1 Cyclamen Aldehyde 44 Vetiver Extender 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 29 Ethylene Brassylate 2 Top Rose 63 MDJ 4 Veraflor 5 Sandalwood Oliffac 31 Linalyl Acetate 23 Ionone For Soap .7 Irisone Pure .1 Evernyl 5 Meranol 6 Citronellol Prime 3 Sandalwood, India 13 Ionone 100 % .1 Rose Oxide R 1 Iso Jasmone 1 Muguet Alcohol 48 Geraniol 4 alpha - Ionone 1 Cedrafix 6 Methyl Lavender Ketone 1 Rose Crystals 1,000 58 Iraldeine Standard 311 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Phenylethylalcohol 1 Geranium Oil 1 Geranyl Acetate .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 14 Bergamot Oil Italy 23 Linalool 2 Nutmeg Geranada

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 305 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Fresh # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

39 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 9 Lavender Bulgaria Oil 14 Patchouli Oil MD 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 27 Benzyle Salicylate 4 Carnation Flower 3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 1 ( Lichen ) 3 Vanilla Beans 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Methyl Anthranilate 15 Osyrol 1 Rose Acetate 26 Galaxolide 50 8 Bergamote Italy 1 Iso - Eugenol 6 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 28 Amyl Cinnamic Alehyde 4 Methyl Benzoate 9 Armoise Tunisian 1 Cyclamen Aldehyde 3 Opoponax Base 3 Jasmone 10 Amyl Salicylate 2 Rose Orient 41 Vetiver Extender 4 Verdantiol 32 Ethylene Brassylate 31 Linalyl Acetate 51 Hedione .7 Irisone Pure 5 Sandalwood Oliffac 5 Meranol 27 Ionone For Soap 3 Sandalwood, India .1 Florymoss - Givaudan .1 Rose Oxide R 6 Citronellol Prime 1 Muguet Alcohol 13 Ionone 100 % 4 alpha - Ionone 1 Iso Jasmone 48 Geraniol Pure 1 Cedrafix 1,000 6 Methyl Lavender Ketone 1 Rose Crystals 47 Iraldeine Standard 329 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 8 Phenylethylalcohol 1 Geranium Oil 1 Geranyl Acetate Pure .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 25 Bergamot Oil Substitute 23 Linalool 2 Nutmeg Geranada 4 Styrallyl Acetate 5 Aurantiol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 306

Chypre Fresh # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

39 Coumarin cryst. 3 DMBC - Acetate 14 Pogostemon Cablin 4 Carnation Flower 27 Benzyle Salicylate 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 3 Heliotropine 3 Vanilla Beans 1 Mousse De Metre 5 Methyl Anthranilate 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Rose Acetate 27 Osyrol 1 Bergamote Italy 29 Galaxolide 50 6 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 3 Iso - Eugenol 4 Methyl Benzoate 24 Amyl Cinnamic Alehyde - KAO 1 Cyclamen Aldehyde 8 Armoise Tunisian 3 Jasmone 3 Opoponax Base 2 Top Rose 10 Amyl Salicylate 4 Verdantiol 41 Vetiver Extender 31 Linalyl Acetate 32 Ethylene Brassylate .7 Irisone Pure 66 MDJ 5 Rose Acetate 5 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Sandalwood, India 20 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur .1 Rose Oxide R .1 Evernyl 1 Muguet Alcohol 6 Citronellol Prime 4 alpha - Ionone 13 Ionone 100 % 1 Iso Jasmone 48 Geraniol 1,000 1 Cedrafix 8 Methyl Lavender Ketone 1 Rose Crystals 47 Iraldeine Standard 332 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Geranium Oil 1 Geranyl Acetate Pure .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 9 Bergamot Oil Substitute 23 Linalol S 97 2 Nutmeg Oil W.I. 4 Styrallyl Acetate 5 Aurantiol 9 Lavender Oliffac Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 307 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrance’s - Chypre Green

CHYPRE GREEN

The chypre green accord incorporates the same group of aromatic chemicals. However, in this case often Galbanum Oil and other green related floral materials are added to provide a fresh green effect.

Top Bergamot 5 % - Fruity

Cassis 1 %, Peach 2 %, Pineapple 1.5 % Floral Green

Green Notes, Violet Notes, Neroli .5 %, Apple - Trace

Middle Argumen 2 %

Iso E Super 8 % Rose 7 %, Lily 1 %, Muguet 9 % Fresh Floral Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 1 % Amyl Salicylate 1 % Jasmin 6 %, Hawthorn 1 %, Carnation .5 %, Reseda .5 %

Base Moss - Trace

Sandalwood 3 %, Musk 3 %, Vanilla 1 %, Woody

Patchouli 2 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 4 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 34 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 308 Glen O. Brechbill

Chypre Green # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 27 Sandalwood Extender 1 Evernyl 72 Geraniol .1 Civet Augalfor 5 1 Neroli Oil 75 Iso & Super 3 Bergamot FCF Green Gr. 1 6 Vanalina 14 Linalol 38 Benzyle Salicylate 5 Irone Alfa 4 Massada .2 Di Ethyl Malonate 9 Patchouli Oil J 871 1 Florhydral 8 Anisaldehyde PQ 19 Aldeido C - 14 .1 Rosalva 3 Myraldyl Acetate 7 Hydroxycitronellal 55 23 Linalyl Actate Synthetic 1 Iso Jasmone .1 Rose Turkish Abs. - Turkey 20 Argumen Substitute 4 Methyl Ionone Gamma 11 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 2 Pearalate 65 Super Cepionate 1 Scennal .1 Alcool C - 8 1 Jasmone 9 Lilie 16 Allyl Amyl Glycolate .1 Rose Orient .1 Nonadienal 4 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Top Galbanum 18.326 5 Reseda Body 1 Mugone S 207M 91 Hydoxycitronellal Extender 3 Irone V 4 Nerol .1 Leaf Acetal 11 Eugenol 1 Nerol Petals 9 Amyl Salicylate 1 Tangerine Oil Natural 329 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Mallow 4 Citronellol 1,000 3 Amyris Oil W.I. 14 Rose For Soap Base 3 Apple Oliffac S .1 Orange Essence Oil 6 Phenylethylalcohol 9 Brahmanol F 4 Meijiff 3 Oxanone

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 309 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Green # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Meijiff 27 Sandela 3 Raspberry Leaves 1 Evernyl 75 Geraniol 60 .1 Civet Powder # 1A 1 Neroli Oil 75 Iso & Super 3 Bergamot FCF Green Gr. 1 4 Vanalina 14 Linalol 38 Benzyl Salicylate 5 Irone Alfa 4 Massada .2 Di Ethyl Malonate 9 Patchouli Oil J 871 1 Myraldyl Acetate 8 Aubepine 19 Aldeido C - 14 .1 Polarose 3 Myraldyl Acetate 7 Hydroxycitronellal 55 23 Linalyl Actate Synthetic 1 Iso Jasmone .1 Rose Turkish Abs. - Turkey 24 Argumen Substitute 4 Methyl Ionone Gamma 11 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 2 Pearalate 63 Super Cepionate 1 Scennal .1 Alcool C - 8 1 Jasmone 9 Lilie 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate .1 Adoxal .1 Nonadienal 4 Ethyl, Vanillin 4 Top Galbanum 18.326 5 Reseda Body 1 Mugone S 207M 90 Hydoxycitronellal Extender 3 Irone V 4 Nerol .1 Leaf Acetal 11 Eugenol 1 Nerol 14 Amyl Salicylate 1 Tangerinol 327 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Mallow 4 Citronellol 1,000 3 Indisan 14 Rose For Soap Base 3 Apple Oliffac S .1 Orange Essence Oil 6 Phenylethylalcohol 9 Brahmanol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 310

Chypre Green # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Meijiff 27 Sandalwood Extender 3 Raspberry Leaves - IFF 1 Evernyl 72 Geraniol 98 % .1 Civet Ethopia 1 Neroli Oil 75 Iso E Super 3 Bergamot FCF Green Gr. 1 6 Vanalina 14 Linalol 38 Benzyle Salicylate 5 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 4 Massada .2 Di Ethyl Malonate 9 Patchouli Oil J 871 1 Florhydral 4 Anisaldehyde PQ 19 Aldeido C - 14 .1 Rosalva 3 Myraldyl Acetate 5 Hydroxycitronellal A 23 Linalyl Actate Synthetic 1 Methyl Jasmonate pure .1 Rose Abs/ 22 Argumen Substitute 4 Methyl Ionone Gamma 11 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 2 Perryfix 63 Super Cepionate 1 Scennal .1 Alcool C - 8 1 Jasmone 13 Lilie 16 Allyl Amyl Glycolate .1 Alpha Damascone .1 Nonadienal 4 Ethyl, Vanillin 4 Top Galbanum 18.326 7 Reseda Body 1 Mugone S 207M 103 Hydoxycitronellal Extender 3 Irone V 4 Nerol .1 cis -3 - hexenyl Salicylate 11 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1 Nerol Petals 9 Amyl Salicylate 1 Tangerine Oil Brazil 318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Scennal 4 Citronellol nat. 1,000 3 Amyris 14 Rose For Soap Base 3 Apple Oliffac S .1 Orange Essence Oil 6 Phenylethylalcohol 9 Brahmanol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 311 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Fragrance Chemicals

Abbarome 011 Citrus, herbal, fresh. Acerola Any of various species of the genus Malpighia. The fruit has a citrusy like fragrance sweet and fresh. Acetate C - 10 Sweet fatty fruity odor of pineapple orange. Alcohol C - 8 Powerful fresh, orange rose like waxy & sweet odor. Alcohol C - 11 Lenic Fresh rather fatty odor, citrusy waxy rosy, petal like note. Alcohol C - 11 Saturated Oily fruity floral citrussy odor slight fatty overall fresh. Aldehyde C - 10 Powerful sweet waxy orange peel like odor. Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic Powerful waxy rosy citrusy odor. Aldehyde C - 12 MOA An aldehyde with a citrus tangerine note. Aldehyde Mandarine 10 % A mandarin orange fresh and citrusy. Aldenal C - 9 Blend of saturated unsaturated aldehydes powerful fresh and waxy citrus. Aldenal C - 10 Blend of powerful, fresh citrus odor. Alpha Terpinene Refreshing lemony citrusy odor. Auralva Neroli orange, muguet, grape odored schiff's base.

Bergamal Refreshing, aldehydic lemon, petitgrain note. Bergamot Augaflor 4 Characteristically bergamot, this compounded specialty has a fruity, woody, slightly sweet fragrance. Can be used up to 5 % in many medias. Bergamot Eco Essence A sweet fruity odor typical of the bergamot orange. Bergamot FCC Rich sweet fruity. Bergamot Givco 104 This reconstitution is bergapten-free and has no phototoxic potential. This is a bergamot that replaces the essential oil with superior stability and performance in functional products. Bergamot LCNP Alternative to bergamot, low cost non phototoxic. Bergamot NPT Closely resembles odor of bergamot oil, non phototoxic. Bergamot Oil Italian A fresh odor of the delightful bergamot natural source is Italy. Bergamot Oil Ivory Coast Sweet fruity bergamot odor that smells right off the west coast of Africa. Bergamot Oil Non Sensitizing Characteristic of the natural oil with natual sensitizing components removed in our special distillation process. Bergamot Oil Rectified A natural bergamot oil fragrance rectified to enhance its effect in many different fragrance formulations.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 312

Bergamot Oil Reconst. Juicy, natural reconstitution. Bergamot Super Oliffac Low cost simulation of the bergamot note for general purposes. Bergamot Terpeneless Extra Extremely smooth dry and clean of sweet bergamot. Bergamote 17.530 SA Rich, sweet fruity initial odor with balsamic body and dry out. Bergamyl Acetate A sweet bergamot orange fragrance. Beta Pinene Coeur Pine, citrus, lime. Bitter Orange NPT Odor similar to the West Indies bitter orange oil free of phtototoxicity. Bitter Orange Oil Cold Pressed A citrusy orange type odor. Bitter Orange Oil 5 Fold Slightly bitter but yet fruity citrusy orange odor. Bitter Orange Oliffac 301 Economical replacement for West Indies bitter orange oil dry citrus.

Cedrat Peel Oil A citrus fruit that resembles the lemon in appearance. Cedrat Petitgrain Oil Oil obtained from the leaves and twigs of the sour orange. Citracetal Citrus like odor, close to citral in it's strength. Citral Powerful lemony fragrance. Citral Di Ethyl Acetal Fine, fresh, citrusy stable in alkalis, fresher then nitrile. Citral Di Methyl Acetal Has a milder but much more natural lemon odor than citral. Citral Di Methyl Acetal Pure Very pleasant, floral lemon note. Citral Extra Finest quality of citral. Citral 700 Strong lemon odor suitable for chemical intermediate use. Citral 750 Grade suitable for chemical intermediate use. Citral 850 Clean, fresh citrus lemon odor. Citral 900 Intermediate grade, citrus lemon odor. Citral Residues A verbana grassy sweet type odor very diffusive. Citral Terpenes Harsh citral lemon odor. Citral X Lemon Fresh, juicy lemon peel, with a sweet tang nuance. Citral X Litsea Powerful, fresh top note, lemon. Citralex Fresh lemon, clean citrus odor resembling citral. Citralva Powerful oily green lemony fresh odor. Citralva Plus Intense lemon character, non discoloring. Citrathal Distinctive fresh lemon lime lasts one day. Citrathanil ABQ7023 Is more green floral and tenacious lemon then agrudor. Citric Acid Amhydrus A crystalline acid with a pleasant acid taste. Citrilys Givco 169 A pleasant citrus accord which evokes freshly squeezed tangerine peel blended with floral marine notes, giving it an unusual sparkling zest. The fruity back ground enhances the composition's natural aspect. Extremely diffusive and long-lasting, it performs well in most functional product bases. Designed for use as a top and middle note, it gives freshness and volume to all citrus, floral and green accords. Citrofuran AB5531 Is a more lavandacious citrus complex containing rhubafuran. Citronal Fruity. Citron Leaf Rectified Oil Tree native to asia having lemon like fruit with aromatic rind. Citronalva Citrus, lemon, aldehydic, metallic. Citronama Intense orange, ginger, palmarosa with ozone muguet aspects.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 313 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citronellal Powerful fresh green citrusy, slight woody odor. Citropal Moderate citrus type odor. Citrotone B Clean fresh fruit odor generally citrus, for all citrus types. Citrus Base Strong odor to lemon peels similar to melissa oil. Citrus Terpenes Based on d-Limonene this fresh citrusy fragrance is a perfumers delight helping to create fresh fruit blends and bases. Citryl Acetate Includes features of bergamot oil with delicate lemon top note. Citryl Nitrile A very strong lemon form of citral not pleasant lemon odor. Citryl Nitrile B - 1313 Dry hay like, fresh lemon, citral note. Clonal Dry orange peel note for citrus, bergamot cologne types.

Decanol Natural A diffusive natural orange, but not of great tenacity. Decanal - 4 - Trans Is an exceptionally strong and diffusive chemical. Used mainly as a top note ingredient, it produces a fresh, natural, citrus-like effect, imparting tremendous lift. Di Hydro Linalool Fresh floral citrusy. Di Hydro Myrcenol Powerful fresh lime like. Di Hydro Myrcenyl Acetate Sparkling, fresh lime, lavender lasts one hour. Di Hydro Terpineol Floral, citrus, lime pine. Di Hydro Terpinyl Acetate Fresh piney citrusy. D ' Limonene Citrus orange. Di Methyl Anthranilate Heavy orange blossom mandarin peel odor. Di Methyl Octenone Can be used to great advantage in citrus accords where it underlines the natural bitterness of the fruit. Its combination with fresh notes is much appreciated for the difusion that it brings to compositions. Its utilization with certain modern accords can give original and natural grapefruit character. Dimetol Powerful lime cologne like odor similar to di hydro myrcenol. Di Myrcetol Fresh citrus lime like odor. Dipentene 122 Fresh and sweet citrusy lemon.

Elemi Essence Fresh lemon like. Elemi Oil Fresh spicy lemon. Elemi Resinoid Fresh terpeney peppery lemon. Ethyl Linalyl Acetate Is softer, more floral, more bergamot and less lavender than Linalyl Acetate. It has an elegant, refreshing effect in floral bouquets.

Feuilles D ' Oranger Abs. Reconstituted feuilles d ' oranger. Feuilles E ' Oranger Abs. Eau Floral odor of feuilles d ' oranger.

Gamma Terpenes Citrus odor. Geraldehyde Intense aldehydic note with marine, floral and citrus moieties. Geranonitrile Fruity green, lemon. Gloria ABQ7022 Is a more citrusy fantasy base with a musky dry down. Grapefruit Oil 5 Fold Citrusy grapefruit slightly sweeter then grapefruit oil of Florida.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 314

Grapefruit Oil of Florida Tangy, citrusy grapefruit nice and fresh. Grapefruit Oil Nardenised A tingling, fresh deterpenised oil lasts several weeks. Grapefruit Oil Terpenes Fresh citrusy rather sweet odor. Grapefruit Base # 15794 B A typical odor of a very ripe grapefruit. Grapefruit Body Fleurom Extremely powerful green grapefruit odor. Grapefruitone Is a sweet fruity specialty with a grapefruit rind character.

Helioforte Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate. Heliomet Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate. 2, 4 Hexadien 1 AL Fresh, spicy green, floral citrusy odor used as top note. Hexadienal 2 Trans 4 Trans Green fruity aldehydic citrus use in melon, kiwi, tropical fruit. Hypo-Lem Citrus, aldehydic lemon.

Iso Bornyl Cyclo Citral A citrus lemon fruit type odor.

Jonquille Jacinthe Abs. A moderate orange that is yellower and stronger then honey dew.

Khadija Musk, ambre, citrus oriental bouquet.

Leila Lilacs in full bloom spiced with a hint of bergamot. A romantic spring bouquet conjuring visions of victorian elegance and the Belle Epoque. Lemarome N Extensively used for its lemon effect in cologne blends. Is also extremely useful in certain floral compositions where it imparts a unique natural freshness. Lemon Basil Oil The citral content of 41% gives this oil a verbena like quality while the basil side is not very evident. Lemon Essence HC Free A natural oil which has had terpene, and sequisterpenes removed. Lemon Givco 112 This base is an imitation of natural lemon odour that in addition has excellent stability and substantivity in all kinds of finished products. This Givco was especially developed for difficult bases like H.D.L.D. and H.D.P.D. Has strong diffusion & good impact on wet laundry. Lemongrass Oil Chinese Strong grassy lemon type. Lemongrass Oil Cochin Otherwise known as East Indian lemongrass oil. The finest essential oils odor varies depending on content of citral and other components. Lemongrass Oil Guatemala A very strong grassy lemon type. Lemongrass Oil Indian Citral content lower then above, but at same time similar. Lemongrass Oil Nardenised Lemon fresh, deterpenised oil lasts a few days. Lemongrass Oil Rectified Appears more lemony and sweet less verbena. Lemongrass Oil Terpeneless A verbena green grassy odor free from harsh terpenes. Lemonile Is used in lemon, verbena and lime compositions where it imparts freshness and diffusion. This nitrile is an extremely powerful chemical and has excellent stability in alkaline media. Lemon Isolate Is a natural distilled product with a fresh juicy tart lemon.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 315 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Lemon Juicy Fresh juicy lemon with a sweet citral terpeney nuance. Lemon Oil Typical lemon and refreshing. Lemon Oil 5 Fold Purer sweeter lemon. Lemon Oil Italian A lemon which is sweet and juicy from Italy. Lemon Oil of California Sweet juicy lemon. Lemon Oil Reconstructed A reconstituted fragrance closely resembling the essential oil. Lemon Oil Spanish Sweet, fruity odor of lemon, source Spain. Lemon Oil Synthetic Low cost reconstitution lasts one day. Lemon Oil Washed A slightly lighter and sweeter juicy lemon. Lemon Petitgrain Oil Strong fresh odor with a woody dry out. Lemonrone Lemonrone Powerful lemon fragrance very chemical like. Lemon Terpenes Mildly lemon. Lemorale Brisk fresh top note useful for lemon limes bergamot herbal. Lemon 360 A slightly sweet fruity lemon odor. Lemsyn Synthetic citral. Lime AB402 Sweet yet sharp lasts a few weeks. Lime Blossom The oil made from the flowers has a fresh green muguet lily like fragrance. Can be used as a floralizer to create interesting effects in many blends. Lime Exp. H C Free A natural oil which has terpene and sequesterpene removed. Lime Expressed NPT Similar odor to the natural expressed oil free of phototoxic. Lime Oil Distilled A tart sour ball candy like lime odor, very sweet. Lime Oil Distilled 4 Fold W.I. A tart lime odor vacum distilled for terpene removal. Lime Oil # 410 Oily sweet fruity lime. Lime Oil 4 Fold Sweeter juicer resulting from vacum distillation process. Lime Oil Expressed A lime fragrance fresh from the peel very reminiscent. Lime Oil Expressed 4 Fold W.I. A fresh slightly tart peel like in sweetness lime odor. Lime Oil Nardenised Sweet, pure deterpinseed oil with petitgran character on dry out. Lime Oil Reconstructed A reconstituted oil closely resembling the odor of a lime. Lime Oil Roses Type Sweet, juicy, candy lime like with a fresh peel character. Lime Terpenes Lime. Lime Oil Terpeneless Lime oil with the terpenes removed. Lime Oil Sequisterpeneless Lime oil terpene free. Lime Oxide Adds freshness and intensity to perfumes designed for functional products It is also a powerful citrus booster with excellent stability in many applications applications, including bleach. Limetol Is used where a lemon-woody note is desired. It also offers pine needle and lime nuances. Limettal ABQ5701 Tingling, fresh floral aldehydic, long lasting. Limettene Very strong pleasant fresh citrus note. Limonene - D Fresh and light sweet citrussy odor resembles orange peel. Limonene 130 Fresh hydrocarbon type lemon odor. Limonene Tech. Fresh clean citrus odor of the orange. Linaloe Wood Essence Floral rose citrus, soft and sweet.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 316

Linalyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity odor, bergamot, pear. Linalyl Acetate Synthetic Widely used for its typical bergamot freshness and lavender characteristic. Linalyl Benzoate Balsamic floral bergamot fruity odor. Linalyl Butyrate Heavy fruity sweet bergamot like. Linalyl Cinnimate Mild and balsamic sweet. Linalyl Formate Fresh citrusy green bergamot like. Linalyl Iso Butyrate More floral less fruity then n butyrate. Linalyl Propionate Fruity floral fresh very sweet bergamot. Litsea Cubeba Rectified Oil Intense citrus fruity lemon like. Litsea Cubeba Terpenes Now as sweet as regular litsea cubeba. Lolitol Fresh floral muguet with citrus nuances.

Mandarin AB646 The juicy zest base is built around citrathal. Mandarin Oliffac Sweet characteristic citrus mandarin note. Mandarinal A powerful fresh citrus aldehydic mandarin orange. Mandarinal 32.048 SA Powerful, fresh citrus aldehydic note of mandarin. Mandarin Ald. 10 Citrate An aldehydic mandarin orange. Mandarin Italian Select Intensely sweet not very fresh orange odor. Melissa Oil Has a sweet fresh lemon like scent. Melissa Resinoid A herb obtained by distilling lemon oil over the herb. Methanyl Acetate Piney citrusy type odor. Methyl Octyl Ketone Powerful citrusy orange. Mugol Extra Soft woody, citrus lime note with floral aspects. Myrcene Refreshing almost citrussy. Myrcenol 50 An excellent cologne note with a citrus lime quality. Myrcenol Super Fresh, citrus. Myrcenyl Acetate Sweet citrus.

Nardozeste ABQ5031 Powerful, dry lemon peel note. Neoproxen Herbal, leafy, green citrus. Neral Crude 88 % Sweet floral citral lemony type fragrance. Nerger Formate Tangy, sweet citrusy, lime, lemon, bergamot odor. Nerol Coeur Moderately priced lemon verbena note dominating the rosy. Nerol G A powerful refreshing, clean lemon rose odor. Neryl Geranyl Acetate Citrus sweet floral. Nonanal Di Methyl Acetal Refreshing, citrus, floral green odor. Nootkatone Purified Citrus grapefuit odor.

Octacetal Fresh, clean citrus character reminiscent of orange. Orafleur Powerful neroli, orange flower note, fresh and diffusive. Orange Aldehyde Powerful, dilution - sweet orange like, fatty odor. Orange Carbinyl Fruity orange. Orange Carbonyls Natural orange juice odor. Orange Des Indes 68A817 A nice clean fresh orange odor with a discreet spicy note.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 317 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Orange Essence Oil A natural oil free from terpene and sequesterpenes. Orange Flavor Zing. Green, fresh juicy sweet orange for juicy top notes in citrus blends. Orange Flower Absolute Has a very intensely floral, heavy and rich, warm, but also delicate and fresh, long lasting odor, closely resembling the odor of fresh bitter orange blossoms. Although this absolute certainly has notes in common with jasmin absolute, it has a much more versatile application as a floral fond when used at a compara- tively low concentration. It shows a pleasant, but peculiar and characteristic, sweet herbaceous backnote, not unlike the one found in jasmin. Orange Flower Bitter Very intensely floral, heavy and rich, warm, but also delicate and fresh, long lasting odor, closely resembling the odor of fresh bitter orange blossoms. Orange Flower Concrete A dark, brownish or orange brown paste or soft mass. Its odor is extremely strong, floral, deep sweet, with a peculiar woody breadcrust like backnote and great tenacity in floral notes. In high dilution, it is strikingly reminiscent of the odor of fresh orange blossoms. Orange Flower Ether Citrus grapefuit note also reminiscent of bergamot orange. Orange Guinea Oil Sweet fruity, reminiscent of the orange peel. Orange Isolate Has odor of natural peel, juicy with a rich aldehydic tone. O.J. Carbinyl STD Very juicy with an orange top note. O.J. Carbinyl VCV Orange, source is most likely valencia oranges. Orange Juice Extract Natural 4/10 Very characteristic of freshly squeezed oranges without the pulp or slight bitter taste that naturally occurs in the fresh fruit. Overall a delightful fragrance suitable for many different creative blends. Orange Oil Bitter Bright bitter odor of oranges. Orange Oil California Sweet orange peel like odor. Orange Oil Distilled Orange peel like slightly less sweet and juicy. Orange Oil 5 Fold A very weak orange peel like odor. Orange Oil Fla. Mid Season Fruity orange. Orange Oil Guinea C.P. Orange, source Guinea, a country located on the west coast of Africa. Orange Oil Nardenised A beautiful sweet, deterpenised oil. Orange Residue Orange peel type odor, however not sweet like california oranges. Orange Oil Sweet Sweet fruity odor of oranges. Orange Terpenes Sweet fruity orange. Orange Terpeneless A nice light rich very smooth orange odor. Orange Terpeneless Sweet fruity orange peel like, very nice. Orange Oil Terpeneless Special A A sweet fruity very smooth orange soda like odor. Orange Oil Terpeneless Extra A delicately sweet orange peel odor reminiscent of orange preserves. Orange Terpeneless X 5 Fold A very weak pure orange odor. Orange Oil Valencia Orange, source valencia type florida oranges. Orange Wax A real orange peel like odor, neither sweet or juicy. Oranger Crystals Sweet and very tenacious orange blossom. Oranger Guiena Essence Sweet fruity and characteristic of orange peel. Oranger Liquid Sweet floral rather harsh orange blossom. Ozonil Very strong fruity reminiscent of nuances in orange and mandarin oil.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 318 Glen O. Brechbill

Pamplefleur Citrus, grapefruit, floral vetivert. Petitgrain Abs. The best of petitgrain oil free of terpenic harsh by notes. Petitgrain Bigarade Abs. A beautiful product where the sulphur notes of petitgrain are muted. Has a green tea, citrus like woody note representing the essential oil to its finest. Petitgrain Bigarade Oil Pleasant fresh floral sweet odor. Petitgrain Citronnier Oil Distinct and pleasant, a fresh lemony floral woody odor. Petitgrain Oil Moroc Sur Fleurs Fresh floral citrus scent and a woody-herbaceous undertone. Petitgrain Oil Mandarin A fresh lemony floral woody odor extremely tenacious. Petitgrain Oil Paraguay Strong, bitter sweet, woody floral odor. The topnote is somewhat harsh, but it quickly gives way to a heavy and sweet bodynote of typical petitgrain character, bitter floral, with a sweet and slightly woody backnote. The dryout, which comes quickly since the odor of this oil is not very tenacious, is sweet and slightly woody floral. According to the age of the oil, there are wide variations in the topnote of its odor. Most often, the topnote smells like the topnote of crude bois de rose oil, almost nutmeg like and warm spicy. Petitgrain Oil S A A fresh lemony floral woody odor. Petitgrain Oil Terpeneless Diffusive less bitter sweet floral woody odor. Psuedo Linalyl Acetate Citrus, bergamot floral lavender.

Rhodinol Augaflor 18 This crisp, citrusy type compound can implant an element of Lemon in a per fume. Gives the finished fragrance a freshness of smell, and touch much sought after. Schiff Base Ligantraal, green citrus, orange blossom best in 10 % solution. Sino Citral Fresh citral lemony with a floral background. Sinocitril ABQ4020 Powerful aldehydic floral which has an enhanced tangerine character. Stymonile ABQ7020 Is a zesty citrusy, radiant, ozone fresh complex.

Tamarine Base 41.310 Very diffusive and natural note of the green mandarine. Tangelo Oil The fragrance is a cross between a grapefruit and a tangerine. They have become a popular fruit commercially, since they are larger than tangerines with less seeds. Altogether fresh and citrusy. Tangerine Essence Fruity, characteristic sweet tangy tangerine. Tangerine Oil Fresh sweet odor reminiscent of valencia oranges. Tangerine Oil Florida Fresh sweet odor of valencia oranges. Tangerine Terpenes Fresh sweet fruity odor of valencia oranges. Tangerine Type Oil Sweet tangy tangerine like reminiscent of the peel. Tangeris Givco 212 A pleasant citrus accord that evokes freshly squeezed tangerine peel, blended with floral, marine notes that give it an unusual sparkling zest. The fruity back ground enhances the composition's natural aspect. Extremely diffusive and long-lasting, it performs well in most functional product bases. Designed for use as a top and middle note, it gives freshness and volume to all citrus, floral and green accords.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 319 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Terpinene Gamma Terpeney, sweet, citrus with tropical and lime nuances. Terpinyl Acetate Extra Sweet slightly herbaceous of the bergamot lavender. Terpinyl Acetate (CST) Sweet, herbal, bergamot pure. Terpinyl Acetate (GUM) Sweet, herbal, bergamot lavender. Tetra Hydro Mugol Coeur Floral, citrus woody. Tetra Hydro Myrcenol Citrus, lime, sweet juicy. Triplal Powerful citrus green. Triplal Extra Green, citrus, herbal, aldehydic.

Unitene D Piney lemony type odor.

Vandor B Aldehydic, green, citrus fatty. Vertocitral Strong grassy green note, citric, somewhat herbal camphor like.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 320

Masculine Fragrance’s - Citrus Floral

CITRUS FLORAL

A citrus floral arrangement is predominately floral based with a distinctive citrus note.

Top Lime 5 %

Hexyl Salicylate 1 % Grapefruit 4 %, Mandarin 1.5 %, Bergamot 9 % - Fruity Citrus Vanoris 1 % Green Notes .3 %, Pineapple 1 %, Basil 1 %

Middle Lavender 3 %

Vertofix 2 % Violet # %, Muguet 4 %, Carnation 3 % Fresh Floral Iso E Super 2 % Pine Oil 3 % Jasmin 7 %

Base Musk 1 %

Sandalwood 2 %, Tonka 1.5 %, Vanilla .5 % Balsamic

Patchouli 2 %

Bases:

Orange Base, Bergamot Base, d’Limonene Substitute

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 2 % Benzyl Salicylate 2 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Hercolyn - D 20 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 321 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Floral # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Sandela 5 Verdyl Acetate 14 Coumane 13 Hexyle Salicylate 10 Benzyl Alcohol 51 Dihydromyrcenol 3 Vanalina 44 Linalool Synthetic 11 Sandec Givco 3 Grapefruit Body Fleurom 40 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 11 Iso Nonyl Acetate 1 Mousse De Chenne 3 Styrallylacetate .1 Spirambrene .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 9 Iso E Super 35 Grapefruit California C.P. Pink 24 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Muguet Alcohol 8 Gamma Terpenes 6 Cycloprop .1 Oranger Crystals 1 Levenalis 4 Indisan 9 Dimetol 2 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Myraldyl Acetate 31 Hydroxycitronellal A 53 Linalyl Acetate 223 d’Limonene Substitute 1 Grapefruitone 9 Para Cymene .1 Nonadienal 1 Folrosia .1 Ocimenyl Acetate 15 Carnation Base 1 Citronella Oil 19 Methyl Lavender Ketone 3 Bergamot 21 Geraniol 98 % .4 Aurantesin 5 Myrcene 1 Clemenflor 3 Citronellol 1 Lemonile 4 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 1 Santal 147 Hercolin - D .1 Aromabase Strawberry 9 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 1 Bourgenal 3 Geranyl Acetate 77 Hedione 5 Diola 1,000 7 Lyral .1 Aldehyde C - 11 28 Bergamit Oil Substitute 8 Vertofix 7 Allyl Amyl Glycolate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 322

Citrus Floral # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Musk 50 DPG 5 Methyl Chavicole 13 Benzyl Alcohol 3 Acetate De Styralyle .1 Lichen 6 Clonal 7 Sandalore 11 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate 15 Cou Marin 31 Linalol 23 Benzyle Salicylate 6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 16 Iso E Super 38 Grapefruit Oil White Indian 3 Heliomet 6 Lysmeral 28 Iso Bornyl Acetate 1 Santalol 11 Vanisal 5 Mandarine, Itlaian C.P. 14 Patchouli Oil Light 63 Linalyl Acetate 4 Citronellal 24 Dihydro Myrcenol 5 Ionone Alpha 60 3 Bergamot Oil ( Misc Origins ) 41 Muguet Base 11 Verdyl Propionate 73 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Dimetol 9 Eugenol .1 Leaf Alcohol 8 Myrcene 2 Grapefruitone 4 Citronellol 3 Ocimene PQ 8 Lavandulas 4 Alpha Ionone 70 % 195 D’Limonene Substitute 3 Citralva 6 Vanillinethyl .1 Orange Essence Oil 19 Geraniol 60 .1 Bay Leaves 65 Hercolyn - D 1 Iso Eugenol 3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000 7 Lavender Oliffac 55 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 11 Gamma Terpenes 4 Methyl Ionone Gamma 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 16 Vanoris ( Iso Nonyl Acetate ) 3 Laurine - Givaudan 38 Grapefruit Oil South African C.P. 9 Hexyl Salicylate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 323 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Floral # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Rhodiascent 3 Acetate De Styralyle 6 Cedrenyl Acetate 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute 19 Alcool Benzilico 9 Natural Nootkatone 80 - 85 % 22 Patchouli Oil Indonesia 13 Dimetol 14 Sandela 7 Iso Nonyl Acetate 20 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Aldeido C - 10 1 Moss Oliffac 39 Grapefruit Cyprus White 3 Vanillin .1 Undecatriene 10 % 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Methanyl Acetate 6 Levinalis 2 Scennal 27 Vertofix 1 Lemon Essence Oil 58 Benzyl Acetate .1 Peach Blossom FM 1042 1 Jasmone 27 Lime Oil Washed 250 d Limonene Substitute 4 Mandarinal 3 Lioral 1 Fruitalire 8 Pin Silvestre de France i.n. .3 Cyclamen Aldehyde 115 Hercolyn - D 6 Verdyl Acetate 3 Iso Amyl Geranate 3 Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso 5 Koavonne 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 9 Eugenol 1 Berryflor 6 Citronellol Coeur 2 Verdyl Propionate 2 Vanillinethyl 53 Linalyl Acetate 23 Jasmin Artificial Base 4 Litsea Cubeba Oil .1 Lichen 14 Geraniol 7 Citralva 1,000 12 Benzyle Benzoate 1 Methyl Lavender Ketone 22 Citral 750 7 Ionone Alpha 27 Lemongrass Oil Java 41 Linalol 16 Dihydromyrcenol 3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 4 Hexyl Salicylate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 324

Masculine Fragrance’s - Citrus Fantasy

CITRUS FANTASY

A citrus fantasy concept can also have a floral theme different base materials including the combination of many different citrus notes to produce different effects.

Top Bergamot 10 %

Orange 9 %, Lemon 4 %, Grapefruit 2 % Fresh Citrus

Lemongras 1 %, Peach 1.5 %, Neroli 1 %, Verbena .5 %, Apple - Trace

Middle Vetiver 1.5 %

Jasmin 7 %, Muguet 3.5 %, Rose 2 % Floral

Violet 4 %, Lavender 2 %

Base Vanilla 2 %

Moss - Trace, Sandalwood 3 %, Tonka .5 % Warm

Patchouli 2 %, Pine 1 %

Bases:

Bergamot, Lemon Arizona, Orange, Orange Flower

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 2 % Benzyl Salicylate 3 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 % Hercolyn - D 19 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 325 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Fantasy # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Neral, Refined 60 - 63 % 5 Cumarone 3157 P 7 Lime Oil Washed 4 Vanilline 14 Verdox 25 Sandalwood Extender .1 Aldehyde C - 31 .1 Mousse De Metre 35 Linalool Extra 99 % 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 14 Vertofix Coeur .1 Feuilles D’ Oranger Abs. 17 Patchouli Oil F 867 .3 Raspberry Ketone 3 Oranger Crystals 1 Verotyl 20 Gamma Terpenes 3 Citroflex # 2 1 Jasmone 47 Linalyl Acetate Ex Petitgrain 3 Sandela 6 Methyl Pamplemousse 24 Benzyl Salicylate 17 Lemon Oil of California 6 Pine Oil White .1 Leaf Alcohol 3 Muskylein 1 Clonal 14 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 11 Aldehyde C - 14 3 Iso Amyl Geranate 3 Helioforte 27 Hydroxycitronellol synthetic 2 Citrilys Givco 169 9 Iso Eugenol Replacement 15 Lemongrass Paraguay 63 Super Cepionate 3 Perryfix 4 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 8 Myrcenyl Acetate - IFF 11 Citronellol 80 33 Orange Terpenes 163 Dipentene 122 9 Citronella Oil Ceylon 1 Undecatriene 10 % 1,000 28 Hercolyn - D 5 Di Methyl Octanol 7 Alcool Benzilique 35 Geraniol 8 Cymene Para 95 % 209 Orange Oil Sweet 9 Valencene - ex Orange .3 Aldehyde C - 10 15 Litsea Cubeba Oil .1 Aldeido C - 10

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 326

Citrus Fantasy # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

19 Benzyl Alcohol 1 Benzaldehyde 6 Vanisal 1 Methyl Pamplemousse .1 Amberwood 8 Petitgrain Citroneer Oil 47 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 39 Sweet Orange Oil 1 Pine Oil Yarmor 3 Methyl Heptenone 1 Undecatriene 73 Linalyl Acetate 28 D-Limonene .1 Folione 1 Jasmon 36 Lemon Oil 340 1 Balsam Peru Oil .1 Aldehyde C - 10 11 Citrathal .2 Anapear - Givaudan 4 Sandela 8 Hydroxycitronellal 99 % 1 Benzyle Butyrate 6 Pamplemousse E Blanc 86 Super Cepionate 1 Verbena Oliffac 9 Citral 850 1 Melaflor 5 Jasphene 9 Citronella 85/25 China 13 Myrcene 4 Grapefruit Australina 25 alpha - Ionone 88 Limonene D 9 Benzylacetate 1 Orangeflor 4 Citronellol .1 Petilyn .1 Aldehyde C - 10 5 Verdox 14 Gamma Terpenes 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 6 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Stymonile ABQ7020 29 Geraniol 60 .1 Floralat 4 Citrilys Givco 169 41 Hercolin D 1 Nerone 1,000 3 Peach Aldehyde 168 D’Limonene Substitute 8 Lilial 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 9 Vanoris 7 Triplal - IFF 105 Orange Oil Sweet Cyprus .3 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic 41 Linalol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 327 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Fantasy # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

24 Benzyl Alcohol FR 1 Methyl Pamplemousse 6 Vanilline 8 Petitgrain Lemon Oil .1 Ambergris 15 Sweet Orange Spain Oil 42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Methyl Heptenone 1 Iso Bornyl Crystals 73 Linalyl Acetate Nat. 3 Undecatriene .1 Nonadienal 25 D-Limonene 36 Lemon Oil Washed 1 Jasmon .1 Aldehyde C - 10 1 Balsam Peru Oil .2 cis - 3- Hexyl Acetate 9 Citrathal 8 Hydroxycitronellal 7 Sandalina 6 Pamplemousse E Blanc 1 Fruitline AB 876 5 Verbena Oliffac 76 Zeppin 7 Aqualone 19 Citral 700 2 Citronella Oil China 5 Jasphene 4 Grapefruit Australina 13 Myrcene 89 Limonene D 25 Methyl Ionone 1 Orangeflor 9 Benzyle Acetate .1 Petilyn 17 Citronellol 5 Verdox .1 Aldehyde C - 10 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 14 Gamma Terpenes 1 Stymonile ABQ7020 6 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Floralat 28 Geraniol 60 4 Citrilys Givco 169 64 Hercolin D 1,000 1 Nerolin 4 Peach Aldehyde 133 D’Limonene Substitute 8 Lilial 3 Jasmorange 9 Vanoris 7 Triplal 125 Orange Oil Sweet Cyprus .3 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic 41 Linalool - John Manheimer 1 Benzaldehyde

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 328

Masculine Fragrance’s - Citrus Fresh

CITRUS FRESH

A citrus fresh fragrance is open for interpretation. What's fresh to one interesting can be green to another. A fresh fruit can be tart, sweet, juicy strong or weak.

Top Lemon 3 %

Petitgrain 1.5 %, Neroli 1 %,Lime 3%, Bergamot 6 % Citrus Fresh

Mandarin 1 %, Orange 10 %, Peach 1.5 % Middle Jasmin 6 % Citral 4 % Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 % Violet 3 %, Rose 8 %, Lemongrass 2 % Floral

Geranium - Trace, Verbena 1%

Base Moss - Trace

Amber .5 %, Civet - Trace, Sandalwood 1 % Moss Ambery

Vanilla 2 %

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 2 % Di Ethyl hthalate 4 % Hercolyn - D 4 % Di Propylene Glycol 26 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 329 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Fresh # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

21 Benzyl Alcohol .3 Aldehyde C - 10 4 Iso E Super 8 Myrcetol 1 Mousse De Metra 5 Verbenna Oliffac 44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Citrilys Givco 164 3 Citropal 129 Orange Oil Florida Velencia C.P. 4 Citronellal 4 Lemonile 7 Di Hydro Nootkatone 3 Jasmonyl Acetate 4 Palmarosa Guatemala 4 Bergamot ( Italia ) 3 Azuril 15 Peach Aldehyde 98 % 8 Lemon Carbonyls FN12231 27 Lime, Haitian Distilled 14 Citronellol 5 Petitgrain, Moroc Sur Fleurs 5 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Orange Carbonyl 7 Lemongrass Oil Yunnun 4 Grapefruitone .4 Orange Aldehyde 3 Tamarine Base 41310G 12 Citral Natural Ex Litsea 7 Orange Oil Sweet Brazilian 64 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Perryfix 5 Citroasis Base 129022L 3 Geranyl N - Butyrate 21 Linalool 7 Orange C.P. & Sweet 37 Hexyl Cinnamic Alehyde 9 L - Limonene 75 3 Citronama 1,000 .1 Benzaldehyde .2 Aldehyde C - 11 MOA 8 Citralva 336 Orange Terpenes 1 Allyl Caproate 4 Lemsyn 17 Ionone 4 Floralate 45 Geraniol 8020 9 Laurine 14 Orange Guinea 7 Bergamyl Acetate 10 Mandarin Yellow Brazil 38 Linalyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 330

Citrus Fresh # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

17 Benzyl Alcohol 5 Triplal 23 Sandela 3 Dimetol .1 Mousse De Chenne Morocco 4 Petitgrain Mandarin Oil 3 Balsam Peru Oil 13 Aldehyde C - 14 45 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 39 Linalyl Acetate 62 Super Cepionate 17 Lemon Oil of California .3 Alcohol C - 9 8 Dipentene 5100 7 Gamma Terpinene 95 .1 Leaf Alcohol 24 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 113 Orange Oil Sicilian 13 Citral FF 12 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 21 Citronellol Coeur .1 Rose Oxide L 2 Terpinol 1 Methyl Para Cresol 5 Geraniol 98 % 3 Melafleur 23 Linalool 2 Neorosal 16G 6 Citral Natural .1 Aldehyde C - 10 1 Bois Iris 3 Petitgrain Oil Moroc Sur Fleurs 5 Citruls Givco 169 19 Orange Sweet Oil 8 Myrcene 90 3 Violet .1 Civet Powder 5 Dimyrcetol 12 Hydroxy Citronellal Dma 2 Florosa O 2 Citronella Oil 85/35 Chinese 1 Helioforte 9 Rose Artificial .2 Citrus Base 4 Citronelva 48 Geraniol 5020 7 Lyral 1,000 13 Ionone Alpha 1 Vert De Fleur D’Oranger 332 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 Vertacetal 7 Sandalore 23 Violet Base 18 Hedione .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 1 Citryl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 331 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Fresh # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

12 Benzyl Alcohol 8 Grapefruit California C.P. Pink .1 Veltol 39 ORANGE OIL SUBSTITUTE 1 Amberlyn AB2000 23 Linalool Standard Ex Orange 6 Santiliff .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 39 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Orangeflor 13 Glbador CG 3 Bergamot Augaflor 4 .1 Civet 170BSA 5 Orange 68 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 4 Lilyall 5 Citronellal 7 Di Hydro Myrcenol Acetate .3 Alcohol C - 9 4 Orange Oil Bitter W.I. 4 Dimetol .1 3, 6 Nonadien - 1 - OL 8 Citronella Oil Java 4 DMBC Propionate 10 Citronellol 6 Lime Terpenes 3 Lotus 172 2 Octacetal 24 Hydroxycitronellal Pure FCC 135 Floral Orange Valencia 6 Oncidal 61 Linalyl Acetate 5 Lilial 3 Lime Blossom 19 Benzyl Salicylate .7 Strallyl Alcohol 27 Vetiver Oil Indonesia (Java) 6 Aldehyde C - 14 44 Geraniol Prime 5 Citrathanil ABQ7023 3 Melisse Oil 1,000 4 Citracetal 3 Geranyl Acetate 2 Limetol 13 Nerol 327 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 9 Zeppin 3 Iso Amyl Captoate 35 % FCC 5 Neofolione 13 Grapefruit Oil Florida .4 Aldehyde C - 10 5 Citryls Givco 169 2 Mandarin Oil Essence

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 332

Masculine Fragrance’s - Citrus Green

CITRUS GREEN

Top Tangerine 1 %

Lime 5 %, Orange 13 %, Bergamot 9 % - Fruity Citrus Floral

Pineapple 1.5 %, Mandarin 2%, Green Notes - Trace Middle Muguet 6 % Amyl Salicylate 2 % Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 % Lavender # 5, Violet 4 %, Rose 5 % - Sweet Floral

Jasmin 2 %, Geranium .5 %

Base Musk 2 %

D’Limonene Sub 30 % Patchouli 1 %, Amber - Trace, Vanilla .5 % Dry

Sandalwood .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 2 % Benzyl Salicylate 3 % Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 % Hercolyn - D 3 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 333 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Green # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 3 Vanillyl Alcohol 23 Musk TM II .1 Alcohol C - 09 8 Sandalwood Substitute 8 Tangerinol 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 57 Linalyl Acetate 8 Patchouli Oil Light 1 Cis Jasmone 17 Benzyl Alcohol 9 Fresh Pineapple 4 Vanillin 23 Bergamot Oil Substitute 28 Benzyl Salicylate 14 Lavender Oil French 40/42 3 Benzophenone 6 Lyral 19 Salicilato Amil .2 Geranium Rose Oil 24 Ionone Alpha White Coeur 43 Dihydromyrcenol 21 Benzyl Acetate 99 % .1 Folione 5 Muskylein 101 Orange Oil Substitute 3 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Kir Base # 9741 49 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Rose Oxide D 33 Jasphene 1 Jasmil 5329 .1 Rosone 9 Lime Oil West - Indian 15 Mandarinal 3 Acetate De Styralyle 6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 25 Orange Peel Oil Sweet Florida 3 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Alcohol C - 11 154 D’Limonene Substitute .1 Lemongrass Jave Essence 1 Irisone Pure 1 Jasmone 41 Geraniol 3 Sandalore .1 Heliomet 1,000 53 Di Propileno Glico 1 Mallow 9 Citronellol 10 Methyl Lavender Ketone 1 Lorysia 43 Hercolin - D 21 Citralva 43 Linalool 97 % 9 Tangerine Oil C.P. Florida .1 Aldehyde C - 10 1 Santalyl Acetate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 334

Citrus Green # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Patchouly Oil .1 Rose Oxide L 3 Amber Substitute 6 Petitgrain Citronee Oil 6 Sandalwood Givco 203 3 Lysral 35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Citronellyl Acetate 3 Benzophenone .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 4 Vanisal 41 Linalool Synthetic 23 Salicylate D’Amyle 7 Tangerine Oil - South American .1 Benzoin Essence - US 3 Scennal 1 Musk Emeressence .1 Rose Acetate 5 Benteine 107 Orange Oil Substitute 22 Benzyl Alcohol .1 Aldehyde 13 - 13 3 Florhydral 1 Bois Ambrene Forte 24 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Perryfix 38 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Bitter Orange Basil Oil .1 Alpha Damascone 14 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 3 Vanillinethyl 57 Linalyl Acetate ( x - Mentha Citrata ) 55 Hydroxycitronellol 3 OJ Carbinyl STV 6 Jasmin Province Base 8 Lime Oil - Washed 33 Iso Raldeine 70 .1 Aldeido C - 10 7 Citronellol 1 Fleurs d ‘ oranger abs. artess 4 Sandalwood Oliffac 17 Mandarinal 23 Citral 1 Undecatriene 1 Givescone 2 Citronella 82/32 9 Myrcene .1 Ribes Nigrum 33 Geraniol Synthetic 85 FCC .1 Mallow 3 Orange Amore Bresil 1,000 85 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Cis Jasmone 31 Lavender 40/42 207 Hercolyn - D 3 Tangerinol 4 Levenalis 36 Di Hydro Myrcenol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 335 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Green # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Vanillin 6 Valencene 21 Alcool Benzilico 1 Citronellyl Acetate 8 Patchouli Dark OE .1 Aldehyde C - 10 4 Givescone 4 Dimetol 33 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 6 Orange Power Givco 229 7 Sandalwood Oil Extender 3 Styrallyl Acetate 19 Galaxolide 1 Aldehyde Mandarin 10 % Citr 53 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Lavender Oliffac 1 Amboryl Acetate 3 Veteacetal 14 Gamma Terpenes 9 Mandarine 23 Amyl Salicylate 1 Glycolierral 25 Cepionate 4 Petilime FM 1213 6 y - Irone 7 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 261 D’Limonene Substitute .2 Orange Essence Oil 9 Ionone Alpha 60 1 Geranodyle 11 Citronellal Oil Java 1 Cis Jasmone 4 Florhydral 11 Tangerine, Florida 3 Ethyl Vanisal 1 Nerol 25 Citral Extra 2 Vernol 41 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Artemisa 17 Para Cymene .1 Rose Oxide R 1 Musk Emeressence 2 Formate De Geranyle 15 Citronelol 51 Linalyl Acetate 11 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 79 Hercolyn - D 17 D. Limonene 1,000 21 Geraniol 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Orange Aldehyde 37 Orange Oil Guinea .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 4 Iso Nonyl Acetate 35 Ethyl Linalool 63 Orange Oil Substitute

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 336

Bibliography

Ackerman, Diane. A Natural History of the Senses, 1990. Aftel, Mandy. Essences & Alchemy - A Book of Perfume, 2001. Arctander, Steffen. Perfume & Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. 1960. Arctander, Steffen. Perfume & Flavor Chemicals, Volumes # 1 & 2. Aurora Photos - Perfume Bottles - 20 - 36 Danforth Street, Suite # 216, Portland, Maine 04101. Bailey, L.J. Hortus, A Dictionary Of Horticulture of North America. 1935. Bedoukian, Paul Dr. Perfumery & Flavoring Synthetics. Bedoukian, Paul Dr. Perfumery & Flavoring Materials, Articles, 1945 - 1992. Bedoukian Research. Distinctive Perfume & Flavor Ingredients. Black, Penny. The Book Of Potpourri, Fragrant Flower Mixes For The Home. Brechbill, Glen O., A Reference Book on Fragrance Ingredients, 2005. Burfield, Tony. The Adulteration of Essential Oils, Globalnet.co.uk, London, 2003. Burr, Chandler. The Emperor of Scent, A Story of Perfume, & Obsession. 2002. Bush Boake & Allen, Inc. Aroma & Terpene Products. Calkin, Robert R. Perfumery Practice & Principles. Chanel Parfums, The Story of Coco Chanel, 1999. Clifford, Frank S. Romance Of Perfume Lands. 1881. Cola, Felix. Book of Perfumery. 1947 Creations Aromatiques Inc., Bases, Essential Oils, Fine Fragrances & Aromatic Materials. Dana, Star W. How To Know The Wild Flowers. 1995. Dictionary, The American Heritage Dictionary Of The English Language, 1971. Dictionary, Webster's Third New International Dictionary, Unabridged. Donato, Giuseppe & Siefried Monique. The Fragrant Past: Perfumes of Cleopatra and Julius Ceasar. 1995. Dorland, Gabrielle J. Scents Appeal. Dorland, Rogers. The Fragrance & Flavor Industry. 1971. Dragoco. World Class Flavor Ingredients. Duff, Gail. Natural Fragrances, Outdoor Scents For Indoor Use. Edwards, Michael. Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances, 1998. Fabulous Fragrances II, A Guide to Prestige and Perfume For Women & Men, 2001. Firmenich, Inc. Chemicals & Specialties. Fragrance Foundation. Fragrance & Olfactory Dictionary & Directory. 1981. Fragrance Foundation. The History, The Mystery, The Enjoyment of Fragrance. Fragrance Profiles. Allured Publishers. French Society Of Perfumers. Fragrance Classification Des Perfumes.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com 337 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Gaborit, Jean-Yves. Perfumes - The Essences and Their Bottles. 1988. Gaines, Ann. Coco Chanel. 2004. Genders, Roy. Perfume Through The Ages. 1972. Gilchrist, Cherry. The Elements Of Alchemy. Givaudan Fragrance Corporation. Fragrance Ingredients. Google Search Engine. Google Inc., 1600 Amphitheatre Parkway, Mountain View, California 94043. Grant, Junius. Hackh's Chemical Dictionary. 1944. Groom, Nigel. The Perfume Handbook. Gunther, Ernest Dr. The Essential Oils. Volumes # 1 & 2. Haarmann & Reimer. Aroma Chemicals & Specialty Scents. The H & R Books Of Perfume # 1 The H & R Book Of Perfume. # 2 Guide To Fragrance Ingredients. # 3 Fragrance Guide. Healy, Orla. Coty - The Brand of Visionary. 2004. Hiscox, Gardner D. Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes, & Processes. 1924. International Flavors & Fragrances. Perfumers Compendium. Irvine, Susan. Perfume - The Creation and Allure of Classic Fragrances. 1995. Jessee, Jill. The Perfume Album. 1972. Lawless, Julia. The Encyclopedia Of Essential Oils. Lawrence, Brian Dr. The Journals Of Essential Oil Research. Volumes # 1 - 4. Maron, Jan. Fabulous Fragrances II: A Guide to Prestige Perfumes for Men & Women. 2000. Material Safety Data Sheets. Mauer, Edward S. Perfumes & Their Production. 1958. Miller, Alan R. The Magical & Ritual Use Of Aphrodisiacs. Miller, Alan & Iona. The Magical & Ritual Use Of Herbs. Miller, Alan & Iona. The Magical & Ritual Use Of Perfumes. Moldenke, Harold & Alma. Plants Of The Bible. 1952. Moran, Jan. Fabulous Fragrances - The Women's Guide To Prestige Perfumes. 1994. Morris, Edwin T. The Story Of Perfume From Cleopatra To Chanel. 1984 Muller, Lamporsky. Perfume, Art, Science & Technology. Naves, Mazuyer. Natural Perfume Materials. 1947. Newman, Cathy, Kendrick Rob. The Art & Science of Scent. 1999. Pickles, Sheila. Penhaligon's Scented Treasury Of Verse & Pose. Pickles, Sheila. A Victorian Posy. Pickles, Sheila. The Language of Flowers. PFW Aroma Chemicals. Aroma Chemicals. Poucher, W.A. Perfumes, Cosmetics & Soaps. Volumes # 1 - 3. Quest International. A Compendium of Fragrance Ingredients. Rimelle, Eugene. Book Of Perfumes. 1865. Robertet. Natural Ingredients. Scent, by Visionaire Publishing 2004. Schab, Frank R. & Crowder, Robert G. Memory For Odors. 1995. Swarthout, Doris. An Age Of Flowers, Sense & Sentiment In Victorian America.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill 338

Takasago. Aroma Chemical Compendium. Theimer, Ernst T. Fragrance Chemistry, The Science Of The Sense Of Smell. Thompson, C.J.S. The Mystery & Romance Of Alchemy & Pharmacy. 1932. Thompson, C.J.S. The Mystery & Lure Of Perfume. 1927. Todd, Pamela. Forget-Me-Not, A Floral Treasury, Sentiments & Plant Lore. Toller, Dodd. Perfumery, The Psychology & Biology Of Fragrance. Turin, Lucas. The Secret of Scent, 2006. Verill, Hyatt A. Perfumes & Spices, History & Soaps, Preparation. 1940. Yahoo Search Engine. Yahoo! Inc., 701 First Avenue, Sunnyvale, California 94089. Worwood, Valerie A. The Complete Book Of Essential Oils On Aromatherapy.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com