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Argentina 10 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Argentina Salta & the Iguazú Falls & Andean Northwest p218 the Northeast p150 Córdoba & the Central Mendoza & Sierras Uruguay the Central Andes p285 p517 p318 Buenos Aires p52 The Pampas & the Atlantic Coast Bariloche & p115 the Lake District p356 Patagonia p400 Tierra del Fuego p492 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Sandra Bao, Gregor Clark, Bridget Gleeson, Carolyn McCarthy, Andy Symington, Lucas Vidgen PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Argentina . 6 BUENOS AIRES . 52 Santa Rosa . 132 Argentina Map . 8 Tigre & the Delta . 113 Reserva Provincial Parque Luro . 133 Argentina’s Top 20 . 10 Parque Nacional Need to Know . 20 THE PAMPAS & THE Lihué Calel . 134 What’s New . 22 ATLANTIC COAST . .115 Atlantic Coast . 135 If You Like… . 23 Northern Pampas . 116 San Clemente La Plata . 117 del Tuyú . 135 Month by Month . 26 Luján . 121 Pinamar . 135 Itineraries . 29 San Antonio de Areco . 123 Villa Gesell . 137 Argentina Outdoors . 34 Southern Pampas . 125 Mar del Plata . 138 Eat & Drink Tandil . 125 Necochea . 146 Like a Local . 39 Sierra de la Ventana . 128 Bahía Blanca . 147 Travel with Children . 45 Parque Provincial Regions at a Glance . .. 47 Ernesto Tornquist . 132 FELICITAS MOLINA/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES MOLINA/GETTY FELICITAS © PATAGONIALANDSCAPES/SHUTTERSTOCK CAPTIONCAPTIONSAN ANTONIO DE ARECO P000 P123 ELOJOTORPE/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES ELOJOTORPE/GETTY CAPTIONCAPTIONFARO JOSÉ IGNACIO P000 P560 Contents IGUAZÚ FALLS & Parque Nacional Quilmes . 269 THE NORTHEAST . 150 El Palmar . 185 Santiago del Estero . 270 Concordia . 186 Along the Río Paraná . .. 151 Catamarca & Paso de los Libres . 187 La Rioja . 272 Rosario . 151 Catamarca . 272 Santa Fe . 164 Misiones . 188 Posadas . 188 Belén . 275 Cayastá . 168 San Ignacio . 192 Londres & El Shincal . 276 Paraná . 168 Western Catamarca . 277 Corrientes . 171 Santa Ana & Loreto . 194 La Rioja . 278 Mercedes . 176 Santa María la Mayor . 195 Chilecito . 281 Reserva Provincial Iguazú Falls . 196 Esteros del Iberá . 177 Puerto Iguazú . 197 Parque Nacional Talampaya . 283 Along the Río Uruguay . 181 Parque Nacional Concepción Iguazú . .203 del Uruguay . 182 Gran Chaco . 205 CÓRDOBA & THE Colón . 183 Parque Nacional do CENTRAL SIERRAS . 285 Iguaçu (Brazil) . 211 Córdoba . 287 Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil) . 215 The Central Sierras . 299 Cosquín . 299 SALTA & La Cumbre . 301 THE ANDEAN San Marcos Sierras . 302 NORTHWEST . 218 Jesús María . 304 Salta & Jujuy Alta Gracia . .. 304 Provinces . 219 Villa General Belgrano . .. 308 Salta . 219 La Cumbrecita . 309 Valles Calchaquíes . 233 Parque Nacional Cafayate . .. 238 Quebrada del Quebrada de Cafayate . .. 245 Condorito . 310 San Antonio de los Mina Clavero . 310 Cobres . 245 San Luis & Around . 311 Salinas Grandes . 246 Merlo . 311 Jujuy . 247 San Luis . 312 Las Yungas . 249 Balde . 314 Quebrada de Parque Nacional Humahuaca . 250 Sierra de las Quijadas . 315 La Quiaca . 260 Valle de las Sierras Yavi . 261 Puntanas . 315 Tucumán & Around . 261 Valle de Conlara . 316 Tucumán . 261 Tafí del Valle . 266 MENDOZA & THE Around Tafí del Valle . 269 CENTRAL ANDES . .. 318 CAPTIONCAPTIONCAPTIONLA BOCA, BUENOS AIRES Santa María . 269 Mendoza . 320 P000P64 Amaicha del Valle . .. 269 Cacheuta . 336 ON THE ROAD PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET © PLANET HARVEY/LONELY LEE PHILIP © IMAGES HICKS/GETTY NIGEL CAPTIONCAPTIONCAPTION`SAN TELMO, CAPTIONCAPTIONCAPTIONSAN MARTÍN DE LOS P000BUENOS AIRES P63 P000ANDES P378 Potrerillos . 337 BARILOCHE & THE PATAGONIA . 400 Villavicencio . 337 LAKE DISTRICT . 356 Coastal Patagonia . 401 Uspallata . 337 Bariloche . 358 Puerto Madryn . 401 Los Penitentes . 338 Parque Nacional Around Puerto Madryn . .. 409 Puente del Inca . .. 339 Nahuel Huapi . 368 Coastal Río Negro . 409 Parque Provincial El Bolsón . 371 Reserva Faunística Aconcagua . .. 339 Around El Bolsón . 375 Península Valdés . 410 Las Cuevas & Villa la Angostura . 375 Trelew . 414 Cristo Redentor . 340 Villa Traful . 377 Around Trelew . 418 Parque Provincial Volcán Tupungato . 341 San Martín de Gaiman . 418 los Andes . 378 San Rafael . 341 Around Gaiman . 420 Cerro Chapelco . 384 Cañón del Atuel & Área Natural Protegida Valle Grande . 343 Parque Nacional Punta Tombo . .. 420 Lanín . 385 Malargüe . 343 Camarones . 420 Junín de los Andes . 388 Around Malargüe . 345 Cabo Dos Bahías . 424 Aluminé . 389 Las Leñas . .345 Comodoro Rivadavia . 424 Villa Pehuenia . 390 Ruta Nacional 40 . 346 Puerto Deseado . 427 Caviahue . 392 San Juan . 347 Monumento Natural Copahue . 392 Bosques Petrificados . 428 Around San Juan . 350 Chos Malal . .. 394 Puerto San Julián . .. 429 Valle de Calingasta . .350 North along the Parque Nacional San José de Jáchal . 353 Ruta Nacional 40 . 394 Monte León . 430 Rodeo . 353 Zapala . .395 Río Gallegos . 431 San Agustín de Parque Nacional Inland Patagonia . 434 Valle Fértil . 354 Laguna Blanca . 396 Esquel . .. 434 Parque Provincial Neuquén . 396 Ischigualasto . .. 355 Trevelin . 439 Parque Nacional Los Alerces . 440 Contents UNDERSTAND Argentina TIERRA DEL FUEGO 492 Today . 576 RICHARD MCMANUS/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES MCMANUS/GETTY RICHARD Ushuaia . 493 History . 578 Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego . 508 Life in Argentina . 588 Tolhuin & Lago Fagnano . 511 The Sounds of Río Grande . 512 Argentina . 590 Puerto Williams (Chile) . 513 Literature & Cinema . 592 The Natural World . 594 URUGUAY . 517 Montevideo . 520 CAPTIONCAPTIONCAPTIONRESERVA FAUNÍSTICA Western Uruguay . 537 P000PENÍNSULA VALDÉS P410 Colonia del Sacramento . 537 Gobernador Costa . 443 Carmelo . 543 Río Mayo . 443 Mercedes . 545 SURVIVAL Perito Moreno . 443 Paysandú . 547 GUIDE Los Antiguos . 445 Salto . 548 Cueva de las Manos . .. 446 Tacuarembó . 550 Directory A–Z . 602 Bajo Caracoles . 447 Valle Edén . 551 Transportation . 614 Parque Nacional Eastern Uruguay . 552 Perito Moreno . 447 Piriápolis . 552 Language . 620 Gobernador Gregores . 448 Punta del Este . 553 Index . 629 El Chaltén . 449 La Paloma . 561 Map Legend . 638 Parque Nacional La Pedrera . 562 Los Glaciares (North) . 455 Cabo Polonio . .. 563 El Calafate . 458 Punta del Diablo . 565 Around El Calafate . 466 Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Santa Teresa . 567 Los Glaciares (South) . 466 Chilean Patagonia . 471 Punta Arenas . 471 SPECIAL FEATURES Monumento Natural Los Pingüinos . 477 Going to a The Legend of Che . 306 Parque Nacional Fútbol Game . 66 Pali Aike . 477 Mendoza’s Wine . 328 The Tango . 100 Puerto Natales . 477 La Ruta de los Staying on an Siete Lagos . 383 Parque Nacional Estancia . 131 Bernardo O’Higgins . 482 Patagonian Wildlife . 422 Parque Nacional The Iguazú Falls . 212 Extreme Patagonia . 469 Torres del Paine . 483 Quebrada de Falkland Islands/ Humahuaca . 256 Uruguay’s Beaches . 554 Islas Malvinas . 490 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 29 Itineraries San Antonio Colonia del de Areco URUGUAY •# Tigre Sacramento É É •# •# f# É #_ R í o d BUENOS AIRES É #_ •# e l a La Plata P l MONTEVIDEO a t a É É A T L A N T I C O C E A N É •# Pinamar •# •# Villa Gesell Ta n d i l É Mar del •# Plata 1 WEEK A Week Around Buenos Aires Seen Buenos Aires from top to bottom and wondering where else to visit? There’s plenty of choice just outside Argentina’s capital, from small and alluring cobblestoned towns to bigger, more exciting cities and bustling soft-sand beach resorts. Tigre, with its hidden waterways and busy delta, is a popular porteño getaway for a day or two. Take a day-trip to peaceful San Antonio de Areco, which has a history of gaucho culture, or tidy La Plata, with its huge cathedral. Perhaps you’d prefer a weekend at the beach? Pinamar and Villa Gesell make great summer escapes, as does Mar del Plata, the biggest Argentine beach destination of them all. Or head inland to Tandil for a couple of days; it’s a pretty town near scenic hills and a large recreational reservoir. And then there’s Uruguay, just a (relatively) short boat ride away. Colonia del Sacra- mento is truly charming; filled with cobbled streets and atmospheric colonial buildings it makes a great day trip. Or stay overnight in Montevideo; kind of like BA’s little sister, it’s smaller and less frantic, but offers big-city delights such as a beautiful theater, an historic downtown and eclectic architecture. 30 BOLIVIA BRAZIL CHILE PARAGUAY •# Salta É ÷# Parque Nacional É Iguazú PLAN YOUR TRIP É •#Córdoba •# PA C I F I C Mendoza URUGUAY O C E A N #_ #– É BUENOS AIRES – É # IT Bariloche •# Lake I Reserva Faunística NERAR District ÷# Península Valdés # – É AT L A N T I C I ES Parque Nacional •#El Chaltén O C E A N Los Glaciares ÷# •#El Calafate Parque Nacional ÷# É FALKLAND ISLANDS (Islas Malvinas) Torres del Paine É •# Ushuaia 5 WEEKS Unmissable Argentina Argentina is a huge country – the world’s eighth largest – and experiencing all its high- lights thoroughly will require at least a month, plus several airplane flights. If you want to see both the north and south, plan your trip accordingly: Patagonia is best in January and February, but this is when the northern deserts are at their hottest, so doing both regions might be best in spring or fall. Tailor the following destinations to your tastes, spending more or less time where you want to. Take a few days to explore the wonders of Buenos Aires, with its fascinating neigh- borhoods and big-city sights. If it’s the right season, fly south for wildlife viewing at Reserva Faunística Península Valdés; the whales, elephant seals and penguins here are especially popular. From here hop another flight to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world and a prime jumping-off point to Antarctica (add another two weeks and minimum US$5000 for this trip!). Now you’ll head north to El Calafate, where the stunning Glaciar Perito Moreno of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares is one of the world’s most spectacular sights. If you love the outdoors, cross the border to Chile’s Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, an awe-inspiring cluster of mountains boasting some of the earth’s most beautiful land- scapes. Back in Argentina, next stop El Chaltén is another world-class climbing, trek- king and camping destination.
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