Survival Guide on the Road
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 42 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips Lake Victoria p211 Northern Tanzania p146 Central Tanzania Northeastern p201 Tanzania p117 Zanzibar Western Tanzania Archipelago p228 p68 Dar es Salaam p44 Southern Highlands p246 Southeastern Tanzania p279 PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 357 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP temp Directory A–Z .................. 358 the Afr search Fo www.amref.org Responder (ww responder.com). Se Transport ......................... 369 H e a l t h further details. Medical Check It’s a good idea to carry medical and À rst-aid kit Health ............................... 380 you, to help yourself in th case of minor illness or in As long as you stay up-to- ry. Following is a list of ite date with your vaccinations to consider packing: and take basic preventive Acetaminophen (parac Language ......................... 388 measures, you’re unlikely mol) or aspirin to succumb to most of the Acetazolamide (Diamo health hazards covered in for altitude sickness (pr his chapter. While Tanzania scription only) s an impressive selection ropical diseases on oՖ er, Adhesive or paper ta Index ................................. 399 more likely you’ll get a Antibacterial ointm of diarrhoea or a cold (eg Bactroban) for c more exotic malady. abrasions (prescri n exception to this is Antibiotics eg hich is a real risk (Ciproxin) or n Map Legend ..................... 407 he country. Road (Utinor) he other main Antidia th. Never lopera oose THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Mary Fitzpatrick Tim Bewer › Tanzania Top Experiences › 0 150 km Lake Victoria Kampala 0 100 miles Enjoy lovely Serengeti NP LEGEND Rubondo Island NP (p222) CA Conservation Area Experience stunning wilderness GR Game Reserve and amazing wildlife (p195) Ngorongoro Crater NP National Park UGANDA Descend into the crater NR National Reserve Kisii with wildlife galore (p191) Nkurungu Lake Manyara NP Mutukula Lake Isebania Take a classic East African Rumanyika Ibanda Bukoba Victoria Sirari Masai Nairobi safari (p183) Orugundu Mara NR GR GR RWANDA Musoma Mara River Bologonya Mt Kilimanjaro Ukerewe Ikorongo Bunda KENYA Trek to the top of GR Africa (p157) Kigali Rubondo Grumeti Island NP Nansio Speke Burigi Gulf River Lake Rusumu Falls Biharamulo GR Mwanza Ol Doinyo Natron GR Serengeti Lengai Namanga Kondoa Rock-Art Sites Benako Biharamulo NP Ngara (2878m) Marvel at these enigmatic Kobero Maswa Mt Kilimanjaro Kabanga Crater Highlands NP paintings (p208) Muyinga Lusahunga Ngorongoro Arusha Mt Kilimanjaro CA Ngorongoro Mt Meru NP Maswa (4566m) (5896m) Nyankanazi GR Crater Holili Usambara & Pare Mountains BURUNDI Lake Manyara Moshi Hike and get to know Bukombe NP Arusha Taveta Lake Makuyuni Eastern local life (p133 and p141) Kibondo Pare Kahama Shinyanga Eyasi Lake Mbulu Kitangiri Ol Doinyo Pang Sambu Mountains Mombasa 4ºS Kigosi (1570m) Arc GR Nzega Babati Tarangire ani Mt Hanang NP Mkomazi Manyovu Moyowosi Wembere (3417m) River NP Maasai Mountains GR Swamp Usambara Gombe NP Kolo Steppe Lushoto Horohoro Pemba Singida Mountains Kigoma Kondoa Mombo Kaliua Amani Uvinza Tabora Wete Tanga Lake Korogwe Chake Malagarasi Sagara Segara Chake River Ugalla Handeni Pangani Ugalla River Sikonge Manyoni GR Mkata Zanzibar River Saadani 6ºS Mahale DODOMA NP Zanzibar Mountains NP Wami River Town Lake Kongwa Msata Mpanda Bagamoyo Kisigo Kisigo Chalinze GR Morogoro Tangan Dar es Salaam River River Kilosa Katavi Rungwa yika NP Rukwa Rungwa Rungwa Zanzibar Archipelago GR GR Enjoy Stone Town and Mtns Kipili Uluguru Ruaha Mikumi Mikumi the beaches (p68) NP NP Kisaki DEMOCRATIC Kibiti Mafia REPUBLIC OF Lake Kipembawe Udzungwa THE CONGO Sumbawanga Rukwa Ruaha River Iringa Mountains 8ºS NP The Coast Kilindoni (FORMERLY Discover idyllic beaches ZAÏRE) Great Ifakara and Swahili culture (p290) Indian Chunya Makambako Gap Ocean Kasesya Selous Kilwa Kivinje Mpulungu Game Reserve Nangurukuru Mbeya Makambako Kilwa Masoko Mbala Kitulo Kilwa Kisiwani Tukuyu NP Mahale Mountains NP Pande Tunduma Matema Njombe Come face-to-face with 40ºE chimpanzees (p238) Karonga 10ºS Livingstone Mnazi Mmoja Mountains Lindi Mbwemkuru (Mingoyo)River Katavi NP River Mtwara Experience outstanding ZAMBIA Mbarangandu wilderness and wildlife (p242) Msangesi Kilambo GR Makonde Masasi Plateau Songea Lake Palma Lake Newala Bangweulu Ruaha NP Lukwika- Mbamba Bay Tunduru Lumesule GR Spot elephants amid MALAWI Nyasa Masuguru ELEVATION the baobabs (p261) Mtomoni Negomano (Lake River 3000m Ruvuma 2000m MOZAMBIQUE Southern Highlands 1000m Selous Game Reserve 500m Experience local life; Malawi) Kilwa Kisiwani hike rolling hills (p246) Float past hippos Explore ruins from the 250m and crocs (p286) 0 era of sultans (p292) 19 Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers. #÷ É É Serengeti •# National Lake Park É Natron É É É RMt Kilimanjaro •# Mt Meru Ngorongoro R É •# Crater #÷ É •# Marangu KENYA Lake Arusha Manyara É National É Park #÷ É Tarangire National Park INDIAN Usambara OCEAN RMountains Lushoto •# •# É Ta n ga •# Pangani É Stone É •#Town Zanzibar É •# Dar es Salaam Two Weeks Northern Circuit & Zanzibar This route combines wildlife watching with beaches and the alluring ‘Spice Islands’, with the chance for detours in between. It’s a heavily travelled route, with plenty of accommodation and dining choices at all stops. Starting at Arusha , explore one or two of the northern parks. Good wildlife- watching combinations include Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Crater (with a Lake Natron detour) or Ngorongoro plus Lake Manyara National Park and Tarangire National Park. Alternatively, go trekking in the north on Mt Meru or Mt Kili- manjaro, and do some hiking and cultural interaction around Arusha or in Marangu. Next, head southeast towards the coast. Detour to Lushoto and the Usambara Moun- tains for hiking and a taste of village life. Continue to Dar es Salaam and catch the ferry or plane to Zanzibar. Fly directly from Arusha to Zanzibar, or travel from the Usambaras to Tanga and the Pangani beaches, from where you can take a boat to Zanzibar. Once on Zanzibar, explore Stone Town before relaxing on the beaches along the east coast or in the north. 20 RWANDA Lake Victoria •# #÷ Mwanza Serengeti É National KENYA Park BURUNDI •# Arusha É PLAN YOUR TRIP Gombe #÷ National Park •# É Kigoma É Zanzibar Mahale Mountains National Park #÷ ITINERARIES Katavi #÷ É National Ruaha •# Park National Dar es É Park #÷ Mikumi Salaam •# #÷ Iringa É National É É DEMOCRATIC Kipili •# #÷ Park REPUBLIC OF •# Sumbawanga Kisolanza •# THE CONGO Udzungwa Mafia Mountains Mufindi •# National Park É É Mbeya•# Lake Tanganyika •#Tu k u y u •#Matema ZAMBIA MALAWI One Month The Southern Highlands & Western Tanzania Heading southwest from Dar es Salaam, you’ll quickly fi nd yourself in the scenic Southern Highlands. A good fi rst stop for a night or two en route to the highlands is Mikumi National Park, with its easily spotted wildlife. From Mikumi, it’s a straightforward detour to Udzungwa Mountains National Park, where backpackers and adventure travellers can enjoy several days hiking up the steep, moist, lushly vegetated slopes. Alternatively, continue from Mikumi straight on to Iringa, which makes a relaxing base. Once in Iringa, a two- or three-night detour to Ruaha National Park is easily arranged and well worth the eff ort. From Iringa, it’s a straight shot down the highway to Mbeya, with stops en route at the lovely Kisolanza, just off the main highway, or at scenic Mufi ndi, with its tea plantations. Both merit at least several days for relaxing and exploring. While Mbeya town is not as amenable as Iringa, there is plenty to do in the surrounding area, including hiking around Tukuyu or canoeing, exploring and hiking around Matema, with its picturesque beach. Taking your time, and exploring the various detours en route, it would be easy enough to spend the fi rst three weeks of your itinerary up to this point. With the remaining time, you could return the way you came, with time left over at the end for a short stay on Zanzibar or Mafi a islands. If you’ve kept a brisker pace, omitting detours, you should have time to continue north- west from Mbeya via Sumbawanga to Katavi National Park. This park deserves at least three days, especially in the dry season, when wildlife watching is at its best, although even a day trip in season can be very rewarding. Double back, and down the escarpment to Lake Tanganyika at Kipili for several days relaxing before taking the MV Liemba to Mahale Mountains National Park and the chimpanzees, or on to Kigoma. Kigoma is an ame- nable stop for several days, and Gombe National Park is close by for an overnight. From Kigoma, take the train, bus or fl y back to Dar es Salaam. Alternatively (and with more than one month), continue overland from Kigoma to Mwanza and Lake Victoria, from where you could proceed into the Serengeti and on to Arusha. 21 #– Kilimanjaro É International Airport KENYA RÉ Pare Mountains #÷ Mkomazi PLAN YOUR TRIP É National Park É R Usambara É Mountains •# Lushoto #÷ •# Ta n ga Amani Nature É •# Reserve Pangani ITINERARIES É INDIAN OCEAN Saadani National #÷ Park •#Bagamoyo É •# Dar es Salaam Two Weeks Northeastern Tanzania First week: after several days in Dar es Salaam, including a visit to historical Bagamoyo, travel northwards to explore the Pangani area with its beaches and long history, and to enjoy Tanga, with its amenable ambience and excur- sions. A good detour en route is to Saadani National Park, with its beach and its wildlife. Second week: buses leave Tanga daily for Lushoto and the western Usambaras. Bota- nists and birders can detour en route to Amani Nature Reserve in the Eastern Usam- baras, with its cool forest walks and traditional medicinal display.