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Home , Amani Nature Reserve, Mikumi National Park, Udzungwa Mountains

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PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 42 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

Lake Victoria p211 Northern p146

Central Tanzania Northeastern p201 Tanzania p117 Zanzibar Western Tanzania Archipelago p228 p68 p44

Southern Highlands p246

Southeastern Tanzania p279

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 357 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

temp Directory A–Z ...... 358 the Afr search Fo www.amref.org Responder (ww responder.com). Se Transport ...... 369 H e a l t h further details. Medical Check It’s a good idea to carry medical and À rst-aid kit Health ...... 380 you, to help yourself in th case of minor illness or in As long as you stay up-to- ry. Following is a list of ite date with your vaccinations to consider packing: and take basic preventive Acetaminophen (parac Language ...... 388 measures, you’re unlikely mol) or aspirin to succumb to most of the Acetazolamide (Diamo health hazards covered in for altitude sickness (pr his chapter. While Tanzania scription only) s an impressive selection ropical diseases on oՖ er, Adhesive or paper ta Index ...... 399 more likely you’ll get a Antibacterial ointm of diarrhoea or a cold (eg Bactroban) for c more exotic malady. abrasions (prescri n exception to this is Antibiotics eg hich is a real risk (Ciproxin) or n Map Legend ...... 407 he country. Road (Utinor) he other main Antidia th. Never lopera oose

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Mary Fitzpatrick Tim Bewer › Tanzania Top Experiences ›

0 150 km Lake Victoria Kampala 0 100 miles Enjoy lovely NP LEGEND Rubondo Island NP (p222) CA Conservation Area Experience stunning wilderness GR Game Reserve and amazing wildlife (p195) Ngorongoro Crater NP National Park UGANDA Descend into the crater NR National Reserve Kisii with wildlife galore (p191) Nkurungu Lake Manyara NP Mutukula Lake Isebania Take a classic East African Rumanyika Ibanda Bukoba Victoria Sirari Masai Nairobi safari (p183) Orugundu Mara NR GR GR RWANDA Musoma Mara River Bologonya Mt Kilimanjaro Ukerewe Ikorongo Bunda KENYA Trek to the top of GR Africa (p157) Kigali Rubondo Grumeti Island NP Nansio Speke Burigi Gulf River Lake Rusumu Falls Biharamulo GR Mwanza Ol Doinyo Natron GR Serengeti Lengai Namanga Kondoa Rock-Art Sites Benako Biharamulo NP Ngara (2878m) Marvel at these enigmatic Kobero Maswa Mt Kilimanjaro Kabanga Crater Highlands NP paintings (p208) Muyinga Lusahunga Ngorongoro Arusha Mt Kilimanjaro CA Ngorongoro Mt Meru NP Maswa (4566m) (5896m) Nyankanazi GR Crater Holili Usambara & Pare Mountains BURUNDI Lake Manyara Moshi Hike and get to know Bukombe NP Arusha Taveta Lake Makuyuni Eastern local life (p133 and p141) Kibondo Pare Kahama Shinyanga Eyasi Lake Mbulu Kitangiri Ol Doinyo Pang Sambu Mountains Mombasa 4ºS Kigosi (1570m) Arc GR Nzega Babati Tarangire ani Mt Hanang NP Mkomazi Manyovu Moyowosi Wembere (3417m) River NP Maasai Mountains GR Swamp Usambara Gombe NP Kolo Steppe Lushoto Horohoro Pemba Singida Mountains Kigoma Kondoa Mombo Kaliua Amani Uvinza Tabora Wete Tanga Lake Korogwe Chake Malagarasi Sagara Segara Chake River Ugalla Handeni Pangani Ugalla River Sikonge Manyoni GR Mkata Zanzibar River Saadani 6ºS Mahale NP Zanzibar Mountains NP Wami River Town Lake Kongwa Msata Mpanda Bagamoyo Kisigo Kisigo Chalinze GR Morogoro Tangan Dar es Salaam River River Kilosa Katavi Rungwa yika NP Rukwa Rungwa Rungwa Zanzibar Archipelago GR GR Enjoy Stone Town and Mtns Kipili Uluguru Ruaha Mikumi Mikumi the beaches (p68) NP NP Kisaki DEMOCRATIC Kibiti Mafia REPUBLIC OF Lake Kipembawe Udzungwa THE CONGO Sumbawanga Rukwa Ruaha River Mountains NP The Coast Kilindoni 8ºS (FORMERLY Discover idyllic beaches ZAÏRE) Great Ifakara and Swahili culture (p290) Indian Chunya Gap Ocean Kasesya Selous Kilwa Kivinje Mpulungu Game Reserve Nangurukuru Makambako Kilwa Masoko Mbala Kitulo Kilwa Kisiwani Tukuyu NP Pande Mahale Mountains NP Tunduma Njombe Come face-to-face with Matema chimpanzees (p238) 40ºE Karonga

Livingstone Mnazi Mmoja Mountains Lindi Mbwemkuru (Mingoyo)River Katavi NP River Mtwara 10ºS Experience outstanding Mbarangandu wilderness and wildlife (p242) Msangesi Kilambo GR Makonde Masasi Plateau Songea Lake Palma Lake Newala Bangweulu Ruaha NP Lukwika- Mbamba Bay Tunduru Lumesule GR

Spot elephants amid MALAWI Nyasa Masuguru ELEVATION the baobabs (p261) Mtomoni

Negomano (Lake River 3000m Ruvuma 2000m MOZAMBIQUE Southern Highlands 1000m 500m Experience local life; Malawi) Kilwa Kisiwani hike rolling hills (p246) Float past hippos Explore ruins from the 250m and crocs (p286) 0 era of sultans (p292)

19

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other

travellers. #÷ É É Serengeti •#

National Lake Park É

Natron É É

É RMt Kilimanjaro •# Mt Meru Ngorongoro R

É •# Crater #÷ É •# Marangu KENYA Lake Arusha Manyara É National É Park #÷ É INDIAN Usambara OCEAN RMountains Lushoto •# •# É Ta n ga •# Pangani

É

Stone É •#Town

Zanzibar É

•# Dar es Salaam

Two Weeks Northern Circuit & Zanzibar

This route combines wildlife watching with beaches and the alluring ‘Spice Islands’, with the chance for detours in between. It’s a heavily travelled route, with plenty of accommodation and dining choices at all stops. Starting at Arusha , explore one or two of the northern parks. Good wildlife- watching combinations include and Ngorongoro Crater (with a Lake Natron detour) or Ngorongoro plus Lake Manyara National Park and Tarangire National Park. Alternatively, go trekking in the north on Mt Meru or Mt Kili- manjaro, and do some hiking and cultural interaction around Arusha or in Marangu. Next, head southeast towards the coast. Detour to Lushoto and the Usambara Moun- tains for hiking and a taste of village life. Continue to Dar es Salaam and catch the ferry or plane to Zanzibar. Fly directly from Arusha to Zanzibar, or travel from the Usambaras to Tanga and the Pangani beaches, from where you can take a boat to Zanzibar. Once on Zanzibar, explore Stone Town before relaxing on the beaches along the east coast or in the north.

, Lake Lake Mafia Zanzibar Ruaha Dar es Salaam Mahale Mahale # • Matema Zanzibar to

, from where É KENYA Liemba . Kigoma is an ame- , with its tea plantations. #÷ nd yourself in the scenicnd yourself in the fi , with stops en route at the . This park deserves at least Lake Victoria Arusha ndi É Kigoma fi # • #÷ and Mu . is close by for an overnight. From is close by for an overnight. From Mbeya National National Mountains Udzungwa ort. Udzungwa Mountains ff National Park # •

É Iringa É # •

# • É , you’ll quickly Arusha Mwanza #÷ #÷

Park É Ruaha Mufindi Park National Kisolanza Matema National Serengeti # National Katavi • or canoeing, exploring and hiking around Tu k u y u and on to to # • en route to the highlands isrst stop for a night or two

MALAWI fi # • É Dar es Salaam Gombe National Park Gombe National , with its easily spotted wildlife. , with its easily spotted # • Alternatively (and with more thany back to Dar es Salaam. fl Tukuyu Mbeya and the chimpanzees, or on to Serengeti Lake

Victoria Mwanza É or at scenic the main highway, ff for several days relaxing before taking the MV for several days Sumbawanga Sumbawanga Sumbawanga # • Katavi National Park , just o #÷ Kipili

É ZAMBIA is easily arranged and well worth the e Kipili # • at

rst three weeks of your itinerary time, you up to this point. With the remaining É fi From Mikumi, it’s a straightforward detour to it’s Mikumi, From islands. Gombe National Park Lake #÷ Mahale Mountains National Park a

, which makes a relaxing base. Once in Iringa, a two- or three-night detour to two- a Iringa, a relaxing base. Once in , which makes Mikumi National Park National Mikumi Southern Highlands. A good Southern Highlands. Heading southwest from Heading

Kigoma fi Kisolanza

#÷ Tanganyika # É , where backpackers and adventure travellers can enjoy several days hiking up the can enjoy several days travellers and adventure , where backpackers • RWANDA BURUNDI

Ma Taking your time, and exploring your the various detours easy enough to en route, it would be Taking If you’ve kept a brisker pace, omitting detours, you should have time to continue north- time detours, you should have pace, omitting a brisker If you’ve kept While Mbeya town is not as amenable as Iringa, there is plenty to do in the surrounding there is plenty While Mbeya town is not as amenable as Iringa, From Iringa, it’s a straight shot down the highway to a straight shot down the highway it’s Iringa, From THE CONGO REPUBLIC OF DEMOCRATIC you could proceed into the with its picturesque beach. spend the could return you came, with time left for a short over at the end on the way stay or west from Mbeya via especially in the drythree days, season, when wildlife watching is at its best, although even trip in season can be verya day rewarding. back, and down the escarpment to Double Tanganyika nable stop for several days, and nable stop for several days, the train, bus or Kigoma, take one month), continue overland from Kigoma to

The Southern Highlands Tanzania & Western One Month lovely for relaxing and exploring.Both merit at least several days area, including hiking around Mountains National Park National Mountains Park steep, moist, lushly vegetated slopes. Alternatively, continue from Mikumi straight on to continue from Mikumi steep, moist, lushly vegetated slopes. Alternatively, Iringa National Park National

20 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 21 y fl . Bota- , for more OCEAN INDIAN Usambaras , with its beach and , with its beach and in the Eastern Usam- area with its beaches area with its beaches Pare Mountains Pare Dar es Salaam

#

• Ta n ga

É continue northve days) and Pangani

, including a visit to historical , including a visit to historical # • fi É Pangani Bagamoyo # • # •

KENYA É and the western #÷ #÷ Lushoto Park R # • , with its amenable ambience and excur-

Saadani

Mkomazi National Park É National Lushoto

Saadani National Park Saadani National É Amani Nature ReserveAmani Nature #÷ Dar es Salaam . While you likely won’t see Mkomazi’s rhinos, the rhinos, won’tsee Mkomazi’s . While you likely Tanga

Pare Mountains

É É

R É #– , travel northwards to explore the , travel Airport National Mkomazi Kilimanjaro International Bagamoyo and to enjoy and long history, First week: after in several days sions. A good detour en route is to Second week: buses leave Tanga daily for Tanga Second week: buses leave After exploring the Usambaras (plan on at least four to After exploring the Usambaras Two Weeks Two Northeastern Tanzania its wildlife. nists and birders can detour en route to out of Kilimanjaro airport, or return en route north, to Dar es Salaam. If time permits you could stop at culture. to know local Pare hiking and getting park is a complete topographical contrast to the lushness of the Usambaras, and a reward- park is a complete of the Usambaras, topographical contrast to the lushness ing stop, especially for birding. Another possible detour is to the baras, with its cool forest walks and traditional medicinal display. In the rains, the road up the rains, In medicinal display. baras, with its cool forest walks and traditional of birds and insects but the symphony in the surrounding forest to Amani becomes muddy, is unbeatable.

and and Mikindani , OCEAN INDIAN island. Spend the island. Spend the a fi , but it’s a rough ride. a rough ride. , but it’s Mtwara Lindi Ma , # • # • Mafia

Lindi É Kilwa #– # • Kilwa Kisiwani

Kilwa Masoko É # • Mikindani #

• É

Kilwa Kivinje

–

# # • Dar es Salaam É # •

É Selous Game Reserve ights. Once in the Selous, spend several days ights. Once in the Selous, spend several days #– É fl É ight connections on to , spend a couple of days enjoying the city’s restau- city’s enjoying the , spend a couple of days fl ying back to Dar es Salaam. Backpackers with more with more ying back to Dar es Salaam. Backpackers ji River. ji fl fi

É a # • Dar es Salaam fi Game Selous Reserve Starting in . This itinerary is suited for those wanting to get a quick glimpse of Tanzania’s This itinerary to get is suited for those wanting a quick glimpse of Tanzania’s from the standard northern circuit–Zanzibar combi- wildlife and beaches away nation described on p19.

From the Selous, there are daily From There are daily bus connectionsto on time could continue from Selous down the coast to time could continue from Selous down the remaining few days of your stay here in one of the lodges, diving and snorkelling, or here in one of the lodges, diving and snorkelling, or of your stay remaining few days Swahili sailing to some of the smaller islands to get a glimpse into the archipelago’s culture and long history before Mtwara There’s also a train and there are daily also a train and there are daily There’s and the amazing night sounds, espe- enjoying the lodges, the boat safaris, the wildlife cially hippos grunting in the Ru rants and craft shopping, together perhaps with a museum visit or a cultural tourism tour.

Selous & Ma Selous One Week One

22 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first.

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required

DAR ES SALAAM . . . .44 AROUND DAR ES SALAAM ...... 62 Pugu Hills ...... 62 Offshore Islands ...... 63 Northern Beaches ...... 64 Southern Beaches ...... 65

ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ...... 68 ZANZIBAR ...... 70 Zanzibar Town ...... 70 AROUND ZANZIBAR . . . . 92 Beaches ...... 92 Jozani Forest ...... 104 Menai Bay & Unguja Ukuu ...... 105 Offshore Islands ...... 105 PEMBA ...... 107 Chake Chake ...... 110 Southern Pemba ...... 112 Northern Pemba ...... 114

NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA ...... 117 Bagamoyo ...... 119 . . . 122 Pangani ...... 124 Tanga ...... 127 Around Tanga ...... 132 Muheza ...... 132 Korogwe ...... 133 USAMBARA MOUNTAINS ...... 133 Amani Nature Reserve ...... 133 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

Lushoto ...... 135 CENTRAL Udzungwa Mountains Around Lushoto ...... 139 TANZANIA ...... 201 National Park ...... 254 Iringa ...... 256 PARE MOUNTAINS ...... 141 Dodoma ...... 202 Around Iringa ...... 260 Same ...... 142 Babati ...... 206 . . . . 261 Mbaga ...... 143 Mt Hanang ...... 207 Makambako ...... 263 Mwanga & Around ...... 143 Kondoa Rock-Art Sites ...... 208 Njombe ...... 264 Usangi ...... 143 Singida ...... 209 . . . . 265 Mkomazi National Park ...... 144 Mbeya ...... 266 LAKE VICTORIA . . . . 211 Around Mbeya...... 270 NORTHERN Musoma ...... 212 Tukuyu ...... 271 TANZANIA ...... 146 Mwanza ...... 214 Lake Nyasa ...... 272 Moshi ...... 148 Around Mwanza ...... 220 Mbinga ...... 275 Machame ...... 153 Rubondo Island Songea ...... 276 National Park ...... 222 Marangu ...... 154 Tunduru ...... 277 Mt Kilimanjaro Biharamulo ...... 223 National Park ...... 156 Bukoba ...... 223 SOUTHEASTERN Trekking TANZANIA ...... 279 Mt Kilimanjaro ...... 157 WESTERN Mafia ...... 281 West Kilimanjaro ...... 160 TANZANIA ...... 228 Selous Game Reserve . . . 286 Arusha ...... 161 Tabora ...... 230 Kilwa Masoko ...... 290 Arusha Kigoma ...... 232 Around Kilwa Masoko . . . 292 National Park ...... 176 Ujiji ...... 235 Lindi ...... 295 Trekking Mt Meru ...... 179 Gombe National Park . . . 236 Mtwara ...... 297 Tarangire Mahale Mountains National Park ...... 181 National Park ...... 238 Mikindani ...... 301 Lake Manyara Uvinza...... 240 Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma National Park ...... 183 Estuary Marine Park . . . . 302 Mpanda ...... 241 Lake Natron...... 186 Makonde Plateau & Katavi National Park . . . . 242 Karatu...... 187 Around ...... 303 Sumbawanga ...... 244 Ngorongoro Conservation Area ...... 189 SOUTHERN Lake Eyasi ...... 194 HIGHLANDS ...... 246 Serengeti National Park ...... 195 Morogoro ...... 247 Mikumi National Park . . . 251 Mikumi Town ...... 253 OUROUR STORY STORY AA beat-up beat-up old old car, car, a a few few dollars dollars in in the the pocket pocket and and a a sense sense of of adventure.adventure. In In 1972 1972 that’s that’s all all Tony Tony and and Maureen Maureen Wheeler Wheeler needed needed forfor the the trip trip of of a a lifetime lifetime – – across across Europe Europe and and Asia Asia overland overland to to Australia.Australia. It It took took several several months, months, and and at at the the end end – – broke broke but but inspiredinspired – – they they sat sat at at their their kitchen kitchen table table writing writing and and stapling stapling togethertogether theirtheir fi first rst traveltravel guide,guide, AcrossAcross AsiaAsia onon thethe CheapCheap. . WithinWithin a a week week they’d they’d sold sold 1500 1500 copies. copies. Lonely Lonely Planet Planet was was born. born. Today,Today, Lonely Lonely Planet Planet has has o offi ffi ces ces in in Melbourne, Melbourne, London London and and Oakland,Oakland, with with more more than than 600 600 sta staff ff and and writers. writers. We We share share Tony’s Tony’s belief belief that that ‘a ‘a great great guidebook guidebook shouldshould do do three three things: things: inform, inform, educate educate and and amuse’. amuse’. OUR WRITERS Mary Fitzpatrick Coordinating Author, Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar Archipelago, Southeastern Tanza- nia, Northeastern Tanzania, Southern Highlands Mary’s fi rst foray into Tanzania was almost two decades ago, when she travelled up from Mozambique to climb Mt Kilimanjaro. Since then – lured by the mountains, the beaches, the people and the culture – she has returned countless times, has studied Swahili, and has visited (almost) every inch of the country. Highlights researching for this edi- tion included getting to spend so much time along the coast, and exploring Tanzania’s far south. A travel writer for over 15 years, Mary has authored numerous Lonely Planet titles, including Tanza- nia and East Africa. She is currently based in Tanzania. Read more about Mary at: lonelyplanet.com/members/maryf

Tim Bewer Northern Tanzania, Central Tanzania, Lake Victoria, Western Tanzania, Pemba Is- land While growing up, Tim didn’t travel much except for the obligatory pilgrim- age to Disney World and an annual summer week at the lake. He’s spent most of his adult life making up for this, and has since visited nearly 80 countries. After university he worked as a legislative assistant before quitting capitol life to back- pack around West Africa. During this trip the idea of becoming a travel writer/ photographer was hatched, and he’s been at it ever since, returning to Africa eight times. When he isn’t shouldering a backpack somewhere for work or pleasure he lives in Khon Kaen, Thailand, where he runs the Isan Explorer (www.isanexplorer.com) tour company.

Contributing Author David Lukas wrote the Wildife & Habitat chapter. David is a freelance naturalist who lives next to Yosemite National Park in California. He writes extensively about the world’s wildlife, and has contributed wildlife chapters for eight Africa Lonely Planet guides, ranging from Ethiopia to South Africa. He also wrote A Year of Watching Wildlife, which covers the top places in the world to view wildlife.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 5th edition – June 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 282 9 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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