How Tweed NEW YORK — Here’S to the Young Ladies Who Lunch

MISSY ELLIOTT’S ADIDAS DEAL/2 VICTORIA’S SECRET OFF THE TUBE/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • April 13, 2004 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles How Tweed NEW YORK — Here’s to the young Ladies Who Lunch. After all, there’s a whole new social generation, and designers are accommodating them with a fresh and quirky crop of suits for fall. Graphically patterned tweeds and the flirtiest of details are the season’s hallmarks. Here, Delphine’s wool and polyamide version, worn with Dennis Basso’s fox collar and photographed at the Maison de Fleur. For more suits, see pages 6 and 7; more furs, pages 9 to 28. Riding the Asian Boom: Wave of Store Openings Planned by Luxe Brands By Tsukasa Furukawa

YLED BY BROOKE MAGNAGHI YLED BY TOKYO — The luxury rush to Asia continues. Brands including Burberry, Giorgio Armani and Marc Jacobs have opened or plan to open stores in the Far East in the next few months as the region continues to recover from the impact of last year’s SARS virus; the Chinese economy grows at nearly a double-digit rate and the core Japanese economy performs at a level not seen in more than a decade. Burberry opened another flagship in Tokyo last week and plans to have more than 30 stores in China by the end of this See Burberry, Page31 A AT KARIN; HAIR BY DENNIS GOTSOULOS AT WARREN TRICOMI; MAKEUP BY PORTIA PETERS; ST PORTIA TRICOMI; MAKEUP BY WARREN AT DENNIS GOTSOULOS KARIN; HAIR BY A AT PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: NINA KEIT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004 WWDTUESDAY Missy Elliott Teams Up With Adidas Ready-to-Wear/Textiles FASHION By Melanie Kletter Gwen Stefani, Jennifer Lopez and Thalia, and the pack is grow- When it comes to suits, newness comes in a flounce here, a graphic pattern NEW YORK — Hip-hop artist ing fast. Beyoncé is at work on a 6 there and a bit of bold hardware. Here are a few looks with charm to spare. Missy “Misdemeanor” Elliott, signature line, and Ashanti is who often dresses in Adidas for also rumored to be launching her her videos and award shows, is own collection. At the same time, GENERAL taking her relationship with the as the line between sports and The luxury rush to Asia continues, with Burberry opening another flagship German athletic giant to the entertainment continues to blur, 1 in Tokyo last week and plans to open up to 30 stores in China by yearend. next level. The firm is set to an- athletic companies are reaching Hip-hop star Missy Elliott and Adidas are set to announce a deal today for a nounce a deal today with Elliott out to musicians to connect with 2 signature fashion collection, which will bow in stores in September. for a signature fashion collec- the 18-to-30-year old audience. tion, which will debut in stores Reebok has been among the most Valentino is well-known as the designer of wedding gowns for several this September. active in this area, and now has 34 famous or privileged clients, and now he will sell to the general public. The three-time Grammy win- licensing deals with musicians TEXTILES: Apparel makers have been devising ways to fend off competition ner is slated for an appearance at including Pharrell Williams, G- 30 from China and India when quotas vanish next year. Here’s the Yucatán plan. the Adidas Original store in SoHo Unit and Jay-Z. to give details of the new collec- Elliott’s line will fall under the EYE: Wednesday marks the 18th anniversary of Naomi Campbell’s career tion, which includes a range of Adidas Originals banner, which is 8 as a model. Here are some celebrations and some reflections. sport-inspired women’s apparel, the German company’s sport and WWDFur In Depth, a special report, appears on pages 9-28. accessories and footwear, WWD street fusion brand. A prolific mu- has learned. Adidas executives sician who is known to be a flashy Obituary ...... 34 declined to divulge specifics ex- dresser and sometimes out- Classified Advertisements...... 35 cept to say the line blends landish performer, Elliott has To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is “Adidas’ street history and sport- long been a fan of Adidas. She is [email protected], using the individual’s name. ing styles with Missy Elliott’s per- also no stranger to the fashion WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 sonality, flare and original style.” world, having appeared in mar- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Elliott joins a string of female keting campaigns for brands such VOLUME 187, NO. 78. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional musicians who have launched as Garrard, Sprite and Reebok, as issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three Missy Elliott additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 their own fashion collections in well as the Gap campaign last West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; inin Adidas.Adidas. Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, recent years, including Eve, GREGG DEGUIRE/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY Continued on page 32 Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. Victoria’s Secret FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is PacSun Success Gets required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Nixes TV Special correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Top Execs Pay Raise magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully By Karyn Monget screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. NEW YORK — Thanks to a stellar sales and earnings perform- NEW YORK — Is modesty the WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED ance in 2003, Pacific Sunwear of California Inc. rewarded its top new strategy at Victoria’s Secret? MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART executives with hefty increases to their annual pay packages, ac- The $3.8 billion lingerie spe- WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED cording to a filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission cialist has decided to can its TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Monday. $10 million fashion extravagan- ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. The annual compensation, composed of salary and bonus, of za — billed as TV’s “Sexiest Greg Weaver, chairman and chief executive officer, climbed 25 Night” — and has also canceled percent in 2003 to $2.6 million from $2 million in 2002. its annual catwalk show for the In Brief Tim Harmon, president and chief merchandising officer, fashion press. watched his total annual compensation rise 37.8 percent to $1.4 The show — which began million in 2003 from $1 million in the prior year, while Carl here in 1995 at the Plaza Hotel, ● DUPONT TO SLASH JOBS: As it prepares for the sale of its Womack, senior vice president and chief financial officer, had moved to Wall Street in 1998, the Invista fibers business, DuPont said Monday it plans to reduce its his annual compensation increase by 20.5 percent to $671,944 in Cannes Film Festival in 2000, head count by about 6 percent this year, as part of a broader cost- 2003 from $557,710 in 2002. Bryant Park in 2001 and the cutting campaign. The Wilmington, Del.-based chemicals giant Last week, management at the retailer said Womack would New York State Armory in 2002 said it expects to remove 3,500 employees through layoffs and at- retire later this year. The company is searching for a replace- and 2003 — had turned into a trition by the end of this year. None of the cuts will come from ment while Womack stays on through the transition. media feeding frenzy with Invista, which is expected to be sold to Koch Industries by the Also last week, PacSun posted comparable-store sales that in- scalpers reportedly selling tick- end of the month. DuPont aims to reduce annual costs by about creased 12.4 percent for March. For 2003, total sales soared 23 ets at up to $10,000 a clip. $900 million starting next year. It said in a statement that the job percent to $1.04 billion while net income rose 61 percent to $80.2 In 1999, Victoria’s Secret cuts, which will come primarily in North America and Europe, million. staged its first live Web cast of would contribute about $325 million in savings. DuPont warned — Arthur Zaczkiewicz the fashion show, with a report- that it expects to take a charge of 17 to 19 cents a share in its sec- ed audience of a billion people ond quarter, which ends in June, as a result of the changes. in over 100 countries, and in 2001, began broadcasting the ● DAMIANI NEWS: As part of a restructuring of its U.S. operations, show on TV, with an audience of Giorgio Damiani, shareholder and vice chairman of the Damiani over 12 million people. Group, the luxury Italian jeweler, will take over as chairman and A division of Limited Brands, president of Damiani USA Corp., a new post. Paolo Novembri, Victoria’s Secret offered no- chief executive officer, and Lynn Grimm, vice president and sales holds-barred sexuality for a and marketing director for Damiani in the U.S., have left the com- mass TV audience (the show pany and couldn’t be reached for comment at press time. Teresa aired at 10 p.m.), even before Andrés, who has been a sales manager at Damiani USA, will con- TIGER BUTTON CO., INC. Britney Spears and Christina tinue in her role, as well as manage the Latin American and Aguilera brazenly rollicked in Caribbean markets and oversee newly appointed area managers. TIGER TRIMMING, INC. music videos, and TV shows In a related move, Damiani said it plans to open a store on 307 West 38th Street New York, NY 10018 such as “Sex and the City” Madison Avenue and 67th Street in New York by late June. It also showed full-frontal nudity. (212)594-0570 800-223-2754 FAX (212)695-0265 signed an agreement for a second location at the King of Prussia A Victoria’s Secret spokes- Mall in Philadelphia, though details weren’t available. email: [email protected] www.TIGERBUTTON.com man would not address the question of whether the company re- ● MAY THEY RISE: Shares of May Department Stores rose 3 per- ceived pressure from the cent from the prior close to end the day at $34.15 after A.G. Federal Communications Comm- Edwards & Son equity analyst Bob Buchanan upgraded the ission, or whether women’s ac- stock to “buy” from “hold.” Trading on the New York Stock tivist groups were instrumental Exchange was 1.5 million, below the average volume of 1.8 mil- in the decision to drop the show. lion. The retailer’s 52-week high is $36.48, and the low is $19.89. He did say, however, that 25 per- “Having suffered three straight down earnings years in a row, cent of the decision was due to May Department Stores is, in our view, on the verge of a per- the “environment,” beginning in formance turnaround,” Buchanan said in his note. early January with the now infa- mous “wardrobe malfunction” during Janet Jackson’s breast- baring incident at the Super Correction Bowl that was televised on CBS. The controversy was later fueled Chloé is owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont. This was by federal regulators this month, incorrect in an Eye item on page 4, Monday. Continued on page 32 Red Rover Red Rover

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Pamella Roland’s tweed jean jacket and mini; Chanel bag; Constança Basto shoes. ▲ Quite Suitable

▲ Behnaz Sarafpour’s wool jacket; Eisenberg brooches at Barbara Flood’s Closet. NEW YORK — So, what’s new? When it comes to suits, it’s a question of some flounces here, a graphic pattern there and a bit of bold hardware. These are some of the latest touches on flippy skirts and little jackets with charm to spare. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004 7

Searle’s plaid David Meister’s wool wool suit; and mohair suit. Agatha pearls. PORTIA PETERS, GIORGIO ARMANI COSMETICS; STYLED BY BROOKE MAGNAGHI AND BOBBI QUEEN; FASHION ASSISTANT: PETER ALLEN ASSISTANT: BROOKE MAGNAGHI AND BOBBI QUEEN; FASHION PETERS, GIORGIO ARMANI COSMETICS; STYLED BY PORTIA BY PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS IANNACCONE AT LA GOULUE; MODEL: NINA KEITA AT KARIN; HAIR BY DENNIS GOTSOULOS AT WARREN TRICOMI; MAKEUP WARREN AT DENNIS GOTSOULOS KARIN; HAIR BY AT MODEL: NINA KEITA LA GOULUE; THOMAS IANNACCONE AT BY PHOTOGRAPHED 8 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004

Naomi Campbell in La Perla’s bra and briefs, Zaldy’s garter belt, Wolford hosiery and Louis Vuitton shoes, from the May issue of W. PHOTO BY STEVEN KLEIN PHOTO BY

Eighteen Again

NEW YORK — Wednesday marks the 18th treatment program for substance abuse at a U.S. facility. ganized AIDS benefits for Nelson Mandela, and is in ne- anniversary of Naomi Campbell’s career as Reports have placed her at the Cottonwood de Tucson gotiations to have Dolce & Gabbana host the first perform- a model. Telecom Italia gave Campbell her Center in Arizona, but Campbell would discuss the ex- ance of Cirque du Soleil in Milan. Connections being what eye® first congratulatory cake on the set of a com- perience only in general terms. “Rehabilitation is the they are in her life — complicated — Campbell was also mercial shoot in Italy a few months ago; her best thing — I think they should teach it in school,” she romantically linked with Cirque du Soleil’s founder, Guy friends are talking about a party in Dubai, says now. “You don’t just go to stop using what it is that Laliberte, last summer, as well as with the Italian tycoon where she posed for Louis Vuitton’s spring ad campaign; you’re allergic to. You find out why you’re doing it. Flavio Briatore, an NC Connect client who is also her fi- Russell Simmons is planning something in New York, and That’s what you need to know, the reason underneath, nancial adviser and, she says, “my best friend.” then there will be the big blowout co-hosted by Lenny and it can go back many years. And with me, it did.” “I don’t want to be, like, someone who has been in your Kravitz in the South of France, including a performance But she does not point fingers. “I blame nobody but life that you run into in a restaurant and just ignore,” she by Cirque du Soleil, on May 22, her 34th birthday. myself,” she admits. “I chose to do drugs. I did it of my explains. “For me, it is really important to remain friends, Eighteen years in the survival-of-the-fiercest modeling own accord. I’m the one who said yes. If you blame and I have remained friends with all my exes.” trade is an achievement in itself, if only because most other people, then you’re not on the road to recovery.” Likewise, her friends say that it is Campbell’s loyalty models these days weren’t even alive on the fabled after- Campbell has found solace in writing about her expe- they most admire. Robin DeMetz, a Manhattan house- noon in 1986 when Campbell was discovered shopping in riences, and she recently set to work on a pair of screen- wife who befriended Campbell five years ago, describes London’s Covent Garden. “I didn’t even count until recent- plays. One tells Campbell’s life story; the other is about a her as “a tough cookie, but there’s another side of her ly,” she explains during a grueling shoot for the May issue man who becomes fatally attracted to several women at most people don’t know. There’s not an anniversary or of WWD’s sister magazine, W, that imagines the backstage birthday that goes by without her sending flowers.” preparations of a showgirl, including a vitamin B-12 injec- Rehabilitation is the best Anna Sui, who has cast Campbell in all but one of her tion in her famous derriere. “But I don’t know if I’m going fashion shows, says that every time La Naomi shows up to be doing this after 20. I guess I should be honored to thing“ — I think they should for a fitting, she is reminded why the term “supermod- have the celebrations this year, because you never know.” el” was born. With Campbell, you never do know. There are the un- teach it in school. “Maybe she’s my good-luck charm,” Sui gushes. “No deniables: the 5 feet, 9 1/2 inches of her sitting in a tight matter what you put on her, it looks spectacular. We al- black blouse with hooks along the front and purple ” — Naomi Campbell ways have a hard time getting her to the fitting, but Dolce & Gabbana corduroys, her long, straight hair held when she gets here, all the fretting goes out the window, back by a pair of sunglasses. But then she talks about once. She’s also in negotiations to develop a reality and she says, ‘See, you didn’t even need me here.’” her rehabilitation from substance abuse, her anger is- show. “I just feel I need to start writing down my life,” Face time with Campbell might be a rarity on the pro- sues and her aspirations to be a serious businesswoman she says. “It’s very therapeutic. It’s like cooking.” fessional side, but maybe that’s why she tends to mix busi- and even a screenwriter. The model with the notorious- But in Campbell’s life, it always has been hard to dis- ness with pleasure. Even her long friendship with Briatore ly bad work ethic is now, she says, a workaholic. cern exactly where the nonfiction ends and the fiction — whom she once accused of punching her in the nose Talking about the photo shoot with Steven Klein for begins. Her previous literary effort, the 1994 novel, after a particularly nasty fight — has grown stronger (just W, Campbell says, “I’m looking at these, and it looks like “Swan,” told the loosely autobiographical story of a when Briatore is publicly bickering with his most recent another person.” British-born supermodel and the self-destructive behav- ex, Heidi Klum, who claims to be pregnant with his child). Campbell gives the impression that, over the past few ior of her friends. (Shortly after publication, the book Campbell swears she and Briatore, with whom she shares years, she has only just begun to discover her real self. was revealed to have been written by someone else.) a home in Kenya, have not gotten back together. She publicly acknowledged her cocaine addiction in Campbell has had a real experience with a stalker, but “I want to spend time alone right now,” she says. 2002, ironically in the context of a breach-of-privacy com- she also has explored the subject on film, in 1996’s “Someone told me that being alone doesn’t mean you’re plaint against London’s Daily Mirror in the Royal Courts “Invasion of Privacy” (as best friend to a pregnant lonely. I want to stay free — with myself — for a while. of Justice. Though she had been treated for what hospital woman kidnapped by the baby’s antiabortionist father), You can’t live for a man.” officials in the Canary Islands described as an overdose and in 1999’s “Prisoner of Love” (spending most of the With this last dictum, Campbell left New York for a in 1997, she denied using drugs for so long that perhaps film shackled to a wall by a conflicted mob assassin). If flight to Miami, where Briatore had dispatched her to the biggest demon Campbell has had to accept about her- there is a theme to be found here, it could be the uni- the Winter Music Festival to scout DJs for the summer self is the truth —not only about substance abuse, but versal struggle of beautiful women who put up with the season at his Billionaire club in Sardinia. The next also about all the temper tantrums and spoiled love af- bad behavior of the men who love them. night, the tabloids spotted her at the Delano making out fairs that have occurred along the way: Mike Tyson when Most of Campbell’s working hours are dedicated to a with Tommy Lee, although her camp said later it was a she was only 19; on and off with Robert De Niro; a failed two-year-old business venture, NC Connect, which she de- night out with a posse of “just friends.” Lee has since engagement to U2’s Adam Clayton, and the list goes on. scribes as “connecting people who don’t know how to get been romantically linked with his ex, Pamela Anderson. “I guess I’ve done things where I deserve to be called from A to B.” Recently, she arranged to have her friends, So maybe it wasn’t the real Naomi Campbell, after whatever, but that’s not who I am,” she says. Sir Elton John and Peter Gabriel, perform at an upcoming all. For that, you may have to wait for the movie. Four years ago, Campbell attended a monthlong children’s benefit with Quincy Jones in Rome; she has or- — Eric Wilson WWD W FrI Depth WWDFur In enough shawl enough shawl celebrities. r the designer accessories from coats, trimsand attention to well, withlotsof shaping upnicelyas $1.7 billion.Thisyearis increasing 13percentto strong 2003,withsales F chiffon dress.EarringsbyZanifor version withNaeemKhan’s silk David Goodman’s knittedsable coziness andsensualluxury. Here, Long, envelopingwrapscombine Talk aboutbold. NEW YORK — celebrities. r the designer accessories from coats, trimsand attention to well, withlotsof shaping upnicelyas $1.7 billion.Thisyearis increasing 13percentto strong 2003,withsales F chiffon dress.EarringsbyZanifor version withNaeemKhan’s silk David Goodman’s knittedsable coziness andsensualluxury. Here, Long, envelopingwrapscombine Talk aboutbold. NEW YORK — unways and unways and iligrana. Fur iscomingoffa iligrana. Fur iscomingoffa u nDepth Fur In P gs9to 28 ages 9 P ages 9-28 ages 9-28

PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: TAMIRIS AT ONE MODEL MANAGEMENT; HAIR BY DANNY RICKETTS AND MAKEUP BY ROANNA, BOTH AT WARREN TRICOMI; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN 10 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004

FUR IN DEPTH

Designers used fur extensively in Dennis Basso and Lil’ Kim 12 their fall runway shows in Europe and the U.S., giving the $1.7 billion industry cause to predict healthy sales this fall. 14 After making a comeback in the Nineties and attracting a new generation in the last few years, some in the industry are wondering whether there can be too much of a good thing. 16 Capelets, boleros and shrugs surface as winter’s favorite evening cover-ups, at their best over long, luxurious gowns. 20 Furs are taking on a sporty dimension, mixing dressed-down and dressed-up elements, as in a broadtail coat with a tweed effect or a sweeping fox vest. 22 The North American Fur and Fashion Exhibition, held annually in Montreal each May, has undergone a gradual evolution over its 21-year existence. 23 Retail fur prices are expected to climb by at least 15 percent this year, but many stores are planning double-digit gains led by brightly colored pieces in a variety of pelts and trims. 24 Evidenced by Jennifer Lopez’s fox-fur lashes at last year’s Academy Awards, fur of all stripes — from chinchilla and mink to rabbit and sable — has become a material of choice in accessories. 26 Rappers and other musicians, such as Eve, Lil’ Kim, Foxy Brown, Ashanti, Mary J. Blige and Beyoncé Knowles, are wearing fur like a coat of arms and often in a casual way.

26 Isabella Fiore inside

Editor Rusty Williamson Copy Chief Senior Vice President, James Fallon Brian Dunn Steven Hillman Group Publisher Ralph Erardy Senior Editor, Markets Art Director Deputy Copy Chief Arthur Friedman Andrew Flynn Peter Sadera Associate Publisher, Sportswear/Furs Associate Fashion Editor Associate Art Director Copy Editors Vanessa Mahlab Bobbi Queen Antonio Aguiar Lisa Kelly Maureen Morrison Production Manager Market Editor Assistant Art Director Doug Hennenmeyer Michele Leung Rosemary Feitelberg Kim Svitic Deborah Boylan Production Coordinator Contributing Editors Designers President, Leigh Roderick 24 Eric Wilson Kara Hasson WWDMediaWorldWide Marc Karimzadeh Amy LoMacchio Edward J. Menicheschi

WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004 12 Accessories are big at Dennis Basso.

FUR IN DEPTH

Michael Kors’ coral mink scarf and coat with paisley lining.

Fur has become“ such a mainstay in the fashion wardrobe. — Dennis” Basso

Carlos Miele was one of many who showed fur on the runway.

By Rosemary Feitelberg NEW YORK — Designers used fur extensively in their fall runway shows in Europe and the U.S., giving the $1.7 billion industry cause to predict healthy sales this fall. This comes on top of a 13 percent increase in 2003 volume, according to the Fur Information Council of America’s survey of fur specialty stores and leased department stores. The figure does not include fur sales in department stores and designer boutiques. Images of musicians such as Eve, Lil’ Kim and Ashanti wearing fur in music videos and out on their own have helped boost consumers’ interest in furs, especially Gens X and Y. With more companies offering lightweight, versatile styles that can be worn on an everyday basis, younger shoppers are being attracted to fur as a fashion option. More than half of consumers buying fur are now under the age of 44, according to the FICA survey. “Fur has become such a mainstay in the fashion wardrobe,” said designer Dennis Basso. “There’s something for everybody — even 19- year-old girls are shopping for fur scarves and vintage coats.” Mink is leading the charge as the most popular pelt, representing 65 percent of all sales, with sheared mink and shearling running second and third, respectively. Fur was repeatedly singled out as the leading fall trends at last week’s Fashion Group Foundation’s panel discussion about the season’s runway shows. In a video highlighting must-haves, fashion journalist Marylou Luther noted e royal treatment how fur was seen on loads of catwalks, including Chado Ralph Rucci, Celine, Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, James Coviello, Tuleh and Proenza Schouler. “Designers have put fur in focus,” Luther said. Saga Furs of Scandinavia sponsored 15 American designers and worked with several more, according to Steve Gold, North American director. “Fur has been part of fall fashions for about 10 years now, so designers need to continually see new and innovative ways of working with the luxury material to keep them interested,” Gold said. Marc Jacobs, Nicole Miller, Vivienne Tam, Gustavo Arango, Behnaz ORS PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; HAIR BY DENNIS GOTSOULOS AND MAKEUP BY ROANNA; BOTH AT WARREN TRICOMI WARREN ROANNA; BOTH AT AND MAKEUP BY DENNIS GOTSOULOS THOMAS IANNACCONE; HAIR BY ORS PHOTO BY

Continued on page 18 K th

14 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004

FUR IN DEPTH

Grace Fur appeared off the runway Jones as much as on, as seen on celebrities and assorted guests at fashion week.

Barbara Nan Bush Kempner

Anna Nicole Smith

brooches and capelettes — has also been a growing cat- the long reach of fur egory for fur design, as it represents an easier point of access for customers who are unaccustomed to wearing fur or who don’t want to look like their mothers. By Eric Wilson been in the past. Whether it is sheared, knitted or is This all adds up to an important distinction in the being used to trim a pair of stilettos, the result is that generational attitudes of consumers toward fur, as the NEW YORK — Fur’s status as a fashion trend of the you have more flexibility than you ever had before.” younger consumers are not looking at mink or sable past five years has had a rejuvenating effect on the The traditional fur houses of Seventh Avenue have as luxury status products, but as fashion. industry, perhaps to the point of overexposure. made impressive advancements with the design of their “It’s a different attitude toward fur right now,” said During the recent presentations of the fall collec- licensed collections in recent years, creating some of the Sui. “It’s not like buying a Cadillac or a dress-up tions in New York, London, Milan and Paris, fur was extravagant fur looks that end up in collections as var- thing, or where you feel like you’re the Barbie Prom everywhere on the runways, and because it was cold ied as those of Oscar de la Renta (made by Alixandre) or Queen. Young women are finding the glamour of fur, out and fur was fashionable, it was all over the audi- Michael Kors (by Pologeorgis). Kors showed mink pon- but they are responding to what is deconstructed.” ence, as well. chos and handbags trimmed with knotted-mink fringe While there remains a market for the full-length At Catherine Malandrino’s show in February, guests that trailed all the way to the floor. Balenciaga showed mink and sable business, vendors are making more wore fur boots, scarves and vests, and one woman boots lined with Mongolian lamb and Marc Jacobs space in their showrooms for unconventional collec- showed up wearing a giant fur Cossack hat — nearly trimmed his Scottish Highlands-themed collection for tions. Alixandre is launching a line of fur-trimmed identical, it turned out, to Louis Vuitton with ermine rainwear for fall designed by Jane Charney Lipman, the ones worn by several collars. the founding designer of Drizzle rainwear. models in Malandrino’s Anna Sui explored the Under the Jane Charney for Alixandre label, show, as well as those of medium for fall in a collab- Charney designed several styles that recall her signa- Michael Kors and oration with Adrienne ture double-coat looks. Most pieces are lined with DSquared later on. Fur is Landau, who specializes in rabbit, or French lapin, as it is called at Alixandre, reaching a wider audience, fur accessories and knitted even though the pelts come from a farm in Spain. too, although not always fur. Sui had seen her work Styles, which wholesale from $650 to $1,950, include with the benefit of a stylist, at various stores and sought traditional wool gabardine silhouettes lined in leop- as evidenced by com- out Landau’s expertise to ard printed lapin; a double-coat consisting of a muters barreling through design six colorful, knitted polyurethane topper that looks like patent leather Manhattan in rain-soaked fox coats for her show. and a shearling base that reverses to show a hide minks, thinking nothing of “Everyone has been treated so that it appears to have been dappled with rubbing up against their curious about furs for the rain drops (available in ivory or burgundy); a black fellow travelers in crowd- last few seasons and when I watch plaid coat lined with dark lapin and trimmed ed subways or elevators. saw Adrienne’s knitted furs with velvet on the undercollar and inside pockets, It’s enough to make one I thought this is the one and classic wool gabardine styles with fox cuffs. wonder, if fur is a fashion everyone’s going to get,” “It doesn’t need to look like you took your mother’s trend, will the trend end? Sui said. “What I like about mink coat and turned it into a raincoat,” said The answer, according them is that you don’t have Lawrence Schulman, president of Alixandre. “I hope to designers and retailers the heaviness of traditional we’ve moved past that.” who have brought fur into fur coats. Everyone is look- Charney said she was eager to adapt her outer- their collections or stores ing for a lighter version. In wear skills with a new material after reviewing the in recent seasons, appears London, they’re buying vin- fall shows. to be “no time soon.” That tage coats, ripping out the “Every collection had fur in it,” she said. “It’s is in large part thanks to the A fur hat from Catherine Malandrino and a coat by Adrienne linings and just wearing glamorous, it’s wonderful. There’s nothing more flat- widespread use of fur in Landau for Anna Sui. the pelts themselves. This tering around a woman’s face than fur. It’s about time nontraditional ways, such is a cleaner version.” we got back into a little bit of femininity.” as a trim, on accessories, knit into sweaters or lining a It’s also a version that takes a decidedly different Fur also got a boost from fashion designers’ cur- raincoat — rather than the age-old full-length mink. attitude toward fur than has traditionally been the rent fascination with the Thirties and Forties, and the By treating fur as a fabric, much like luxury cash- case. In the mid- to late 20th century, it was an return of the Lippi cat plays right into the prim mere or silk, the purveyors of fur are giving the American stereotype for women to wait for the day sophistication of the era. What the fall collections — revival of their medium a much longer shelf life, and their husbands (or whoever) would buy them a mink and the audiences attending them — proved is that also creating a series of mini trends within furs, like coat, a status symbol of achievement and wealth. there is still room for fur to grow as a fashion trend, bright beaver-lined jean jackets (fall 2000) or fur- Following a deep recession in the fur industry during and perhaps become even more widespread, even to fringed handbags (fall 2002) or the unrivaled fur look the 1980s, led by changing attitudes toward the sub- places where it maybe shouldn’t go. of this past winter, the leopard-like Lippi cat jacket. ject, furriers came up with a new strategy of develop- “Fashion trends always come and go in cycles, but “Fur was so prolific on the runways and I mean ing collections with designer labels and new I still think there’s some longevity in fur,” said Burke, just everywhere,” said Robert Burke, vice president approaches to fur to redevelop consumer interest. who downplayed any concerns that widespread and senior fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman. The results have been increasingly successful, draw- acceptance would have any impact on accelerating “Fur has more longevity now as a trend than it ever ing a new generation of consumers to wear furs that are fur’s pro-fashion cycle. “Are there some people who has in the past, and the reason is that it is being treat- more fitted, shorter, sportier and often, less obviously are buying short skirts who should not? Definitely, ed as a fabric and not in the traditional way it had fur. Accessories — like collars, scarves, fur rosette but that’s just the pitfalls of fashion.”

16 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004

FUR IN DEPTH evening stars NEW YORK — Capelets, boleros and shrugs surface as winter’s favorite evening cover-ups, at their best over long, luxurious gowns.

Dennis Basso’s Russian broadtail jacket and Vera Wang’s silk lamé gown.

Jerry Sorbara’s Adrienne Landau’s mink, chinchilla shrug crystal and metallic lace for Neiman Marcus capelet over Carmen over Badgley Marc Valvo’s cashmere Mischka’s metallic top and sequined skirt. silk dress. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004 17 STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN AND BROOKE MAGNAGHI; FASHION ASSISTANT: NICOLE KEATING ASSISTANT: BOBBI QUEEN AND BROOKE MAGNAGHI; FASHION STYLED BY

Cassin Fur’s mink capelet and Roland Nivelais’ silk lamé gown. All earrings by Zani for Filigrana. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODELS: TAMIRIS AND AMBER AT ONE; HAIR BY DANNY RICKETTS AND MAKEUP BY ROANNA, BOTH AT WARREN TRICOMI; WARREN ROANNA, DANNY RICKETTS BOTH AT AND MAKEUP BY ONE; HAIR BY AND AMBER AT ERICKSEN; MODELS: TAMIRIS KYLE PHOTOS BY 18 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004

FUR IN DEPTH

Accessories …Chado were seen at Ralph Derek Lam… Rucci…

the royal treatment

Continued from page 12 Sarafpour and Derek Lam were among those designers Saga sponsored, while it shared techniques with Michael Kors, Carolina Herrera, Carmen Marc Valvo and Peter Som. Saga Furs of Scandinavia represents fur breeders in Denmark, Finland, Norway and Sweden. J. Mendel is responding to the increased competition by upgrading its already …and Carmen Marc Valvo. luxe collection. Designer Gilles Mendel said for the coming season, his atelier in

New York “has devoted an increasing amount of time and expertise to create an even more couture line of furs.” “We believe it is essential to distinguish ourselves in a market where fur has become a such an integral part of so many collections,” Mendel said. To make fur more of a year-round item, J. Mendel introduced small shrugs in fox and in mink, and fur coats and jackets that are as light as suede. The company has four stores and plans to open two in the U.S. and one in Asia in the next year. Basso is also on the move, with plans to open several stores in the U.S. and possibly Europe within the next few years. One unit is expected to bow in Chicago, Beverly Hills or Las Vegas within the next year. Basso already has a freestanding store on Madison Avenue and a boutique in the Little Nell Resort at the foot of Aspen Mountain. Increased interest in accessories, an area that has been developed in the past year, has helped boost Basso’s overall volume. When shopping for coats, shoppers don’t think twice about buying fox collars, knitted fur scarves and fur hats, which retail between $500 and $5,000, he said. “Fur has become a luxury element and not just for its warmth,” Basso said. “Our average shopper is a woman in her late 30s to early 40s.”

OXAN Inc. 10 44 R t . 23 N . Suite 316 Wayne, NJ 07470 973-633-0300

Sales Offices: New York Michael Zeidner 212-921-8744 Chicago Michael Feder 312-527-1750 Los Angeles Barbara Nogg 213-489-4684 Dallas Kathy & Jo 214-740-1807 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004 19

Alixandre Furs, the maker of Oscar de la Renta’s percent ahead of last year, she said. Shoppers are look- love to defy old geographic stereotypes,” Yarmak said. licensed fur collection, plans to announce a licensing ing for accessories, a category that accounts for 20 per- “Our power is in combining sable and lynx, gold and deal with another designer by the end of the month, said cent of her business, as well as sportswear. By offering diamonds, cashmere and silk taffeta. We do our best to Lawrence Schulman, vice president. a variety of items beyond coats and jackets, Goldin’s make creations which are filled with imagination and “Fur is definitely a designer business without a collection “can be set up as its own little department in fantasy, each being viewed as individual works of art.” doubt,” Schulman said. “People are interested in qual- stores,” she said. Last fall, Lord & Taylor partnered with Ben Kahn ity and fashion.” “What’s exciting for me is for all these years I did Furs to open its New York salon in the store’s Fifth Based on the success of last year, the company plans designer collections, but until last year never with my Avenue flagship. The 2,000-square-foot shop bowed in to host more store appearances with de la Renta in own name,” Goldin said. “Now we are being taken very October on the main floor. 2004. About 15 to 40 pieces are sold at such events and seriously as a high-end designer.” Lavelle Olexa, senior vice president of fashion mer- 45 were sold at one last year, Schulman said. Another designer with a signature line, Helen Yarmak, chandising and public relations, said, “We have had a “They are wonderfully deconstructed, very lightweight said the appeal of fur is pretty consistent and universal. very positive reaction from our customer. Currently, we styles that almost could replace the cloth coat,” he said. “For women, furs and jewelry are not about warmth are looking to not only enhance our N.Y. salon, but we Alixandre Furs expects to increase its annual busi- or comfort,” Yarmak said. “They are about emotion, are reviewing additional locations for future expansion.” ness by $1 million, through its new fur-lined Drizzle attraction and the state of mind. Our clients look for The opening was a bright spot in a somewhat diffi- rainwear, which is being designed by Drizzle’s co- exquisite craftsmanship and beauty.” cult year for Ben Kahn Furs, which lost its president, founder Jane Charney Lipman. The collection is designed in Moscow, produced in Ernie Graf, in January at the age of 83. A memorial A. Kuehnert & Co., the U.S. distributor of Italy and sold in Russia, Europe and North America. service is scheduled for Sunday for Graf, an affable Mackintosh, is also getting into the fur-lined business. The aim is to open a London showroom in the next year. industry leader, at the Stephen Wise Free Synagogue, The company has teamed up with Cassin Fur to devel- “In the fast-paced international fashion world, we 30 West 68th Street, in Manhattan. op fur liners and collars for its classic coats. Designer Sherry Cassin said she got the idea after seeing Mackintosh coats at a Bergdorf Goodman event and “recognizing how sumptu- ous and practical the coats would be lined in fur.” Cassin is making removable liners and collars in sheared nutria, badger, raccoon and fox for the 160-year-old brand. They ship to Bergdorf ’s stores beginning in June. Wholesale prices for liners range from $395 to $795 and collars range from $125 to $395. Ronald Isley, a member of The Isley Brothers, has turned his attention to fur by introducing Mr. Biggs fur collection for men. Isley will unveil a collection of his-and-her furs in stores this fall. Sable, chinchilla, mink, fox and rabbit are featured in the 85-piece men’s collection, which will retail between $800 and $1,500. Isley’s collection is being produced by Tendler Furs, a 75-year-old New York- F U R S based firm run by third-generation furrier Steven Tendler. Another newcomer to the domestic fur scene is Russian TV commentator and designer Natalia Darialova. Sometimes referred to as “the Russian Barbara Walters,” Darialova, the host of a talk show seen by 50 million Russians, launched her fur and leather collection at Saks Fifth Avenue’s flagship in December. The line consists of . $5,000 shearling coats, $10,000 F ALL WINTER 2004 mink coats and $2,000 fur wraps and will be sold exclusively at Saks this year. After seeing all the creations she had made for her TV show and other events, Saks Fifth Avenue vice chairman and chief operating officer Steve Sadove encouraged her to develop a collection, Darialova said. She said she was inspired by Russian czars’ imperial-style “beautifully decorated fur coats.” BY APPOINTMENT Her interpretation includes long, embroidered coats. “I try to create clothes that accentuate the female figure — clothes that are comfortable, glamorous and eye-catching,” Darialova said. With business “booming,” Anne Dee Goldin has moved to a 5,000-square-foot space at 214 West 29th Street in the Fur District. “Fur is probably more important than it’s been in recent memory and the collection is being well-received,” 150 WEST 30TH STREET 13TH FLOOR Goldin said. NEW YORK, NEW YORK 10001 Interest from European PH: 212. 736. 5550 stores is helping boost sales, which are running at least 10 20 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004 FURsp IN DEPTHorting events NEW YORK — Furs are taking on a sporty dimension, mixing dressed-down and dressed-up elements, as in a broadtail coat with a tweed effect or a sweeping fox vest.

Helen Yarmak’s LoLouisuis Dell’Olio’s knitted silver fox shearling coat vest over for LeGar. Yeohlee’s overalls and shirt.

Dominic Bellissimo’s shearling jacket with Yeohlee’s skirt and Oscar de la Renta’s sweater. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004 21

Tendler’s knitted fox jacket.

Oscar de la Renta’s reversible broadtail coat for Alixandre Furs; clothes and boots from Oscar de la Renta. ROANNA, BOTH AT WARREN TRICOMI; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN; FASHION ASSISTANT: CANDICE LANGLEY ASSISTANT: BOBBI QUEEN; FASHION TRICOMI; STYLED BY WARREN ROANNA, BOTH AT PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODELS: EKATERINA AT KARIN; AMBER AT ONE MODEL MANAGEMENT; HAIR BY DENNIS GOTSOULOS AND MAKEUP BY AND MAKEUP BY DENNIS GOTSOULOS HAIR BY ONE MODEL MANAGEMENT; KARIN; AMBER AT AT THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODELS: EKATERINA PHOTOS BY 22 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004

FUR IN DEPTH

Jennifer Scott’s Silver fox Fox stole by white fox vest. collar and Lida Baday. muff by Izzy Camilleri.

Knitted beaver from EK’O by Dene Fur Clouds. naffem branches out at 21

By Brian Dunn show for Canadian buyers,” he said. that fur would become a major That message was reflected at last trend and would be sold in nonfur MONTREAL — The North American Fur and Fashion year’s show, which featured more fur stores,” Herscovici said. Exhibition, held here each May, has undergone a and fabric combinations and fur Four years ago, Richard H. also gradual evolution over its 21-year existence. accessories than previous editions. helped to develop FurWorks Canada, The show has been attracting more upscale exhibitors Flipping through show statistics, a new style of fur that is sportier and buyers, according to Alan Herscovici, executive vice Herscovici noted that 50 percent of looking, lighter and easier to wear president of the Fur Council of Canada, which produces buyers and 30 percent of exhibitors are than traditional furs created by top NAFFEM in conjunction with the Canadian Fur Trade now American, compared with 45 per- Canadian fur designers. For the first Development Institute. In fact, it now carries the sub- cent who are Canadian buyers and 58 time, this year’s Fur Works collec- heading The Luxury Outerwear Show. The next edition is percent who are Canadian exhibitors. tion was featured at the Prêt-à- set for May 2-5 at Place Bonaventure. The remainder come from Europe, Porter show. “We’re beginning to reach a wider audience and Russia, Japan and South America. “To survive as a sector, we must we’ve added other winter outerwear like leather and Now that NAFFEM is no longer find new fashion niches and accessories,” Herscovici said. “At the last show in uniquely a fur exhibition, show man- trends,” Herscovici said. “At NAF- May, 43 percent of the exhibitors were primarily fur ager Lena Romano has been market- FEM, Richard will add more excite- collections, including smaller pieces and vests. ing NAFFEM more aggressively to ment with new types of presenta- Another 30 percent were other types like shearlings, other organizations. She successful- tions and communications.” leathers and fur trim, and 11 percent were showing ly convinced DLS Outfitters of New Another initiative, also launched accessories. The remaining 16 percent of exhibitors York to attend the last show. DLS is a Fox and leather jacket from FurWorks. four years ago, is the Design were fur pelts, and other products and services.” consultant to about 120 independent Network, a collaboration with Saga That’s where the luxury tag comes in. Herscovici U.S. retailers. Furs of Scandinavia. The objective said that’s what the show has become. He works with “I had no idea how different and diverse the fur is to invite Canada’s leading fashion designers to cre- a staff of about 10 at the council office and an annual market has become,” said DLS president Frederick ate collections incorporating fur. budget of $720,000. Derring. “There was lots of interesting stuff and we Each year, five designers spend a week at the Saga “The message we want to get out is that NAFFEM will definitely get more stores to attend next year.” design center outside Copenhagen to learn how to is no longer just a fur coat show and it’s not just a Derring thinks most of his clients would be more work with fur provided by the fur council. The interested in getting involved in trunk designers produce a mini collection that is shown at shows rather than setting up fur depart- different venues, such as the Montreal and Toronto ments in their respective stores. fashion weeks, in China and Russia, and at the NAF- “I can also see some of the stores buy- FEM gala. Saga’s similar efforts with American ing fashion items rather than carrying a designers have been successful. full line,” Derring said. The five participants in this year’s Design Network A lot of high-end fashion boutiques that were Simon Chang, Renata Morales, Karen Palmer, sell fur don’t know much about it and can Crystal Siemens and Tavan & Mitto. learn a lot about the product at the show, “The objective is to encourage and stimulate inno- said Herscovici. “In addition, a lot of vation to broaden the market beyond the traditional exhibitors are doing more business with fur coat and main fur manufacturing centers,” boutiques than in past years, particularly explained Herscovici. “Everybody buys the same furs boutiques in hotels and ski resorts.” at the same price. To be competitive with Oriental One of NAFFEM’s main initiatives is to labor rates, we have to offer something different, and build its exhibition base to broaden its more innovative and more unique pieces.” appeal with a wider range of products, par- It also allows ready-to-wear designers to offer ticularly accessories such as silk scarves value-added products with fur accessories. All these and jewelry. initiatives are helping to make fur more of an every- “We want to attract more high-end bou- day item with a wider range of products and treat- tiques looking to expand their product ments, including knitted furs that have been created range,” said Herscovici. “We also want to by designers like Paula Lishman. attract the guy from, say, Las Vegas, to “As a result, there are more boutique owners show his exclusive leather garments.” attending the show, which gives us more confidence NAFFEM has been working with to get the word out to boutiques that the show is worth French fashion consultant Richard H. for attending,” said Herscovici. “We’re also looking to a number of years. Richard H. also works add more European exhibitors to allow more bou- FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT OUR as the artistic director of the Salon Prêt-à- tique buyers to offer more European collections. The AMERICAN DESIGNER INITIATIVE Porter in Paris. European boutique market is way ahead of North PLEASE EMAIL [email protected] “We brought him in to look at fur appar- America in terms of knowing the importance of fur el because he predicted a few years ago and fur accessories to grow their business.” WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004 23 retail brightens up

DALLAS — Retail fur prices are expected to climb by at least 15 per- “Women buy furs for fashion, not for warmth. It just doesn’t get cent this year, but stores don’t expect a slowdown in business. that cold in this part of the country,” Baldridge said. “So, we’re ex- Many are planning strong double-digit gains, using brightly col- pecting to do well with reversible furs, rabbit-trimmed capes, fox- ored furs, fox, mink, rabbit and fur-trimmed accessories to en- trimmed cashmere, chinchilla and mink. With all the fashion de- tice consumers. signers trimming apparel with fur and all the bright colors, furs “Retail prices will have to rise because fur prices were way are becoming important accessories for many women’s up at the auctions where manufacturers buy the pelts — any- wardrobes.” where from 15 to 35 percent depending on the fur and color,” Fur sales are projected to increase at least 10 percent at Tres said Steve Blatt, owner of seven-unit Searle, in New York. Mariposas this year, said Baldridge, adding that the store rang up “Minks will have the biggest price increase. The good news is $30,000 in fur sales last month. that furs just keep getting stronger at retail. I’m planning gains of “We’re off to an incredible start, when women begin buying 50 percent this year. We’re increasing our inventory and produc- furs in March,” she said, citing Bisange, Blum & Fink, Miller & ing more furs for our own label. We ran out of furs last season.” Berkowitz, Adrienne Landau, Trilogy, Cassin and Anne Dee Searle kicks off the fur season in August with a range of Goldin as top brands. styles in order to gauge consumer interest. Bob Rooke, owner of Gavrel Furs, a 50-year-old specialty “We normally bring in the entire line early and let shop- store in Fort Worth, said sales were up 15 percent last year and pers tell us where their minds are. Then we can adjust our are expected to climb even higher in 2004. merchandising approach for the rest of the season,” Blatt “The business starts earlier and earlier — this year we sold said. “One of the biggest trends this year is definitely going lots of coats in February,” Rooke said. “Women are seeing fur to be fox, which continues to get stronger each year due to in all the fashion magazines, both as coats and as an accessory its sporty and versatile nature. Designers are using fox as a or trim, and they’re also realizing that fur is much more af- trim on down coats and shearlings.” fordable. The stigma is long gone that furs are just for the Terry Thornton, divisional merchandise manager at 34- rich.” unit Neiman Marcus, said more designers are using fur in Rooke said sheared furs, mink, fox-trimmed cashmere, their collections, with fur accessories one of the strongest fitted-waist jackets, strollers and colors such as ice blue, trends. pink and key lime will help drive business this year. “If the European runways were any indication, more designers “We sell furs on a regional basis from our store and across the are going to be working in fur than ever before,” Thornton said. U.S. and globally on our Web site,” he said. “Our best-selling line is “We saw lots of fur in Italy, including fur trims, stoles, shrugs and Bella Bicchi.” neck pieces. It bodes well for many different areas in retail.” Joel Kaye, whose family owns Morris Kaye & Sons, a retail and As for trends, Thornton expects strong interest in brightly col- wholesale fur business in Dallas, said sales are up 10 percent for ored fox furs, short cropped jackets, strollers and traditional the first quarter of 2004 after gaining 25 percent last year. longer coats. “Last year was the best year in our company’s history,” said Tres Mariposas, a women’s specialty store in El Paso, has a Kaye. “We’ve gone with the trends and also now carry a full line healthy fur business with affluent Mexican women who live of leather and fur-trimmed denim accessories. This year, I’m ex- across the border in Juarez, said Bobbie Baldridge, buyer. pecting fox to be one of the most popular furs, especially since mink prices have risen so much.” — Rusty Williamson Fur accessories are popular. Here: a look from Carmen Marc Valvo. Above: Fur- trimmed items are strong at Searle.

DESIGNER FUR COLLECTIONS

BY APPOINTMENT ONLY

143 WEST 29TH STREET, 8TH FLOOR NYC, NY 10001 212.563.2250 24 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004

FUR IN DEPTH accessories’ fresh option

Giuseppe Zanotti

Michael Kors

Isabella Fiore

By Marc Karimzadeh NEW YORK — Jennifer Lopez was clearly onto something when she accessorized her eyes with fox fur lashes at last year’s Academy Awards. From chinchilla to mink, rabbit and sable, fur of all stripes has become a material of choice in accessories. The trend has been building momentum for a few seasons now, but it really hit its stride during the fall ready-to-wear collections. While Lopez’s fox eyelashes haven’t quite made the transition from red carpet to reality, dozens of designers and houses such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Oscar de la Renta and Michael Kors have homed in on the trend for over-the-top-luxury bags, shrugs, hats, gloves, boots and even strappy sandals. Kors offers mink and fox bags, coyote-trimmed boots, clutch bags with a fox wrist strap and shearling bags, but his pièce de résistance is arguably a knitted mink cross-body bag with a leather trim and fringe, for $4,900 retail. “I love something superluxe and unexpected,” Kors said. “I have always been a designer that’s all about fabric. Fur is just one more option, which I love to use in an unexpected way. It’s actually quite practical. It does not get dirty and can become a staple in your wardrobe for years to come.” For fall, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the creative director for women’s wear and accessories at Borbonese, designed handbags, boots and sandals in mink, fox and chinchilla, including a large crocodile handbag with dyed fox fur on both sides for $9,000 retail. “Combining fur with a ‘classic’ accessory instantly makes it more glamourous and intriguing,” Dell’Acqua said. “[It’s] for a client that knows and cares about trends, one willing and able to experiment and have fun with accessories.” Oscar de la Renta uses sables and minks in his fall accessories, and one of the designer’s most-booked bags is a mink satchel with a cabochon stone chain, priced at $3,900 retail. “Fur is luxurious and accessories seem to be getting more and more luxurious,” de la Renta said. “I think people were looking for something besides crocodile.” Jennifer Tash, president and founder of Isabella Fiore, concurred: “Bags almost became one dimensional lately. Everyone had their silver hardware and their pebbled leather. It almost became a sea of sameness. So you look around, think about textures, and fur offered something less serious and more fun.” The company is offering jack rabbit handheld hobo bags in colors such as violet and pink, and dip-dyed in black with a crystal rhine- Borbonese stone buckle. Designers agree that the trend isn’t just for the red carpet. “It could be a crazy rock star that wants to be excessive and wear something completely out there and crazy, or a normal woman who just wants to have fun with the item she wears, be sexy and get noticed,” said shoe designer Giuseppe Zanotti. “She can wear it at any time, to any occasion. Fur is never just a question of protecting from the cold, but it’s how you wear it. It feels really good and looks really sexy.” But it remains to be seen whether the fur accessories craze will translate into spring. “It’s more a fall trend,” said Tash at Isabella Fiore. “Every time people bring fur into summer, the consumer gets confused. If they have to choose between a pink fur bag or a linen bag in summer, they will pick the linen because it makes sense to them.” That said, it all depends on the fur, according to Dell’Acqua. “There might be a translation into spring,” he said. “Nowadays, furriers are able to obtain furs Oscar de la Renta that almost equate the weight of chiffon.” ZANOTTI PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; OSCAR DE LA RENTA BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT BY GEORGE CHINSEE; OSCAR DE LAZANOTTI RENTA PHOTO BY Sorbara Furs 150 West 30th St., New York, NY 10001 212-594-3897 Linea DoraSanti Exclusive ofPell NorthAmericanRepresentatives XavierBarcelona Manufacturer offineshearlingsandreversible karakullamb 151 West 28thStreet(6th&7th)NewYork, NY10001 T el [email protected] A DivisionofSharnelleFursLTD - callforanappointment 26 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004

FUR IN DEPTH all‘rapped’ in fur

NEW YORK — Rappers and other musicians are wearing fur like a coat of arms. they make personal appearances. Eve, Lil’ Kim, Foxy Brown, Ashanti, Mary J. Blige and Beyoncé Knowles are among “It means you have achieved a certain amount of wealth, in addition to being the many singers who have taken to fur and as a result are introducing a generation of fashionable and topping off a nice outfit” Allen said. young people to a look that was once reserved for the wealthy. Their male counter- Musicians’ interest in fur registers with consumers who opt for more affordable parts, Usher, Sean “P. Diddy” Combs and Ja Rule, have also been furthering the cause. options like vintage fur coats, fur-trimmed pieces and accessories, he said. Although fur has long been worn for formal occasions, today’s musicians are During Fashion Week in February, Allen dressed Eve, who is one of his clients, wearing fur as more casual attire. For a surprise late-night performance at a Boston in fur for the J. Mendel and Carlos Miele shows and the Louis Vuitton store open- club last month, Lil’ Kim turned up wearing jeans, a fur coat and sunglasses. ing. For her “Barbershop II” music video with Blige, Eve wore a Fendi fur with Rapper Rah Digga went with a floor-sweeping fur at the Gen Art fashion show in matching boots, but Allen said her fondness for fur is not due to its extravagance. February, Foxy Brown belted out raps in a chinchilla jacket at Fusha Designs and “For Eve, it’s a little bit different,” Allen said. “It’s not to be fabulous. She’s just Knowles sported a long mink coat to a Pepsi shoot in London earlier this year. a classy girl — polished and more mainstream — and she happens to be a rapper.” “These new rappers did not invent wearing a lot of fur and jewelry, but they have Not one to flaunt floor-length, boxy or brash-colored furs, Eve favors more light- definitely made it more casual and that’s the difference,” said Dennis Basso, who has weight, slimming styles that complement her skin tone, he said. decked out Diana Ross, Patti LaBelle and Natalie Cole in his fur coats over the years. “You’ll never see her wearing fur in the spring weather, either,” Allen added. “Those are the divas. They all have been wearing furs since they first could sing a note.” Baby Phat, a popular label with musicians, offers fake-fur jackets and coats in Knowles, on the other hand, started wearing fur a few years back, according to a spokesman at Hymie’s Fur & Leather store in Houston. That’s where she and her mother take their sketches to be made into one-of-a-kind designs, such as the Foxy Brown performing with Wyclef Jean Diana skimpy fur-trimmed bikini she wore in her “Survivor” video and the white fur at Fusha Designs fashion show. Ross stole she donned for her Rockefeller Center performance last year. “Beyoncé’s more interested in fur from a design perspective than just wearing it,” the spokesman said. Like Knowles, some celebrities aren’t merely interested in wearing fur — they’re looking to design some pieces of their own. Foxy Brown is reportedly working on a signature fur collection that could be launched later this year, according to her friend, Claudinette Jean, designer of Fusha Designs. Brown could not be reached for comment. The rapper Ja Rule and his wife, Aisha, are considering adding fur to their forthcoming women’s apparel collection, under their ErvingGeoffrey label. The name is a play on Irv Gotti’s birth name, Irving, and Ja’s real name, Jeffrey. Gotti is the founder of the record label formerly known as Murder Inc. During the Fusha Design fashion show, Brown performed wearing a short-waist chinchilla jacket designed by Fusha’s Jean. “Most artists like to be very individual,” Jean said. “For me, it’s a plus because I custom design a lot of my things. A lot of artists are wearing fur. It’s definitely one of the trends with Foxy, Clef [Jean’s husband, Wyclef] and Patti LaBelle.” Consumers are taking note and trying to copy their style, she said. a variety of colors. Designer Kimora Lee Simmons didn’t want to use real fur, out “People look on TV and in magazines and say, ‘Oh, Usher is wearing that or Foxy of respect to her husband Russell Simmons, who is a vegan. is wearing that,’ ” Jean said. “That’s a very excellent way of getting free advertising.” Whether they wear real or fake fur, musicians are motivating Gen X and Y to “Jacob the Jeweler” Arabo, owner of Jacob & Co. here, which is known for cater- find “fun, hip things in vintage shops or accessories,” Basso said. ing to musicians, has also seen his customers accenting their outfits with fur. “They definitely have influence on street fashion and fashion gets motivated by “Fur and jewelry go together,” said Arabo, whose diamonds are seen on Eve, street fashion,” he said. “Clearly, it sets a tone with what’s going on. The residual Knowles, Jessica Simpson and Britney Spears. “You can’t wear jewelry with no fur. effect is, ‘It’s OK to look glamorous.’” They complement each other.” Gilles Mendel, the designer behind J. Mendel, agreed: “There are definitely per- While some trends fade and rekindle, the combination of fur and diamonds has sonalities in the music industry who support the [fur] industry as a whole by wearing been pretty steadfast. fur and influencing a new and younger generation. Equally “It’s security,” Arabo said. “It shows people are self-satisfied and it’s a sign of important, however, are the fashion magazines and their edi- success. It’s a ‘Look at me now’ kind of thing. Some of them think, ‘Let me tors. By presenting fur in new ways, magazines inspire their show you how successful I am,’ but most of it is for fashion.” readers and show them new ways to incorporate fur into Celebrity stylist Alexander Allen noted that rappers and their wardrobes as a statement about style, not trends.” musicians have raised the bar for “fabulocity” and luxuri- — Rosemary Feitelberg AGE; EVE: JEMOL COUNTESS/WIREIMAGE ousness, by dressing to the nines in music videos and when

Rappers and musicians are helping to raise fur’s fashion quota. Here, from left, Ashanti; Lil’ Kim; Ja Rule and his wife, Aisha, and Eve at the J. Mendel fashion show. FOXY PHOTO: DJAMILLA ROSA ASHANTI: MARIO COCHRAN/WIREIMAGE; LIL’KIM: MYCHAL TAMA/GETTY; JA RULE: ROSA WATTS/WIREIMAGE; COCHRAN/WIREIM Fur is fashion, fur is forever, fur is for all ages.

Call Funtastic Furs for new and creative ideas utilizing the latest fur fashion techniques in addition to plucking, shearing and grooving. We manufacture fur coats and can help designers and outerwear vendors with fur trimming.

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AND MAGAZINE SPONSORS... WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004 29

Te xtile & Trade Report

in the range of $467, or 49,000 yen, to $657, or 69,000 yen, at current exchange New Spin on Textile Tech in Japan rates. Bottoms run from $152, or 16,000 yen, to $267, or 28,000 yen. By Tsukasa Furukawa nylon the white. When the fabric’s tem- The paper is made from ramie fibers, perature rises, the wax melts and ab- and companies are currently looking TOKYO — The Japanese textile indus- sorbs heat; when the temperature drops, into ways to produce it from wood, the try faces many of the same challenges as it solidifies and releases heat. spokesman said. its counterparts in the U.S. and Europe, In principle, the effect is similar to “The paper fabric excels in heat re- mainly surging competition from pro- that created by dropping an ice cube tention and can be used for winter cloth- ducers in nations where operating costs into a glass of room-temperature water. ing,” he said. “It is friendly to the envi- are lower. The yarn is being marketed for use in ronment, as it is combustible and bio-de- To overcome their cost disadvantages, innerwear, sportswear and casualwear, composing in soil.” Japanese yarn and fabric companies and will be available in time for the fall focus intensively on developing new 2004 retail season. In addition to the yarn, SOUPED-UP SILK products that offer unusual performance finished fabrics incorporating the yarn Japanese textile producers have been advantages, which their foreign competi- are available, the companies said. working with silk fibers for centuries. tors are currently unable to offer. Idemitsu Technofine, a But today’s silk industry is working to Among the Japanese industry’s latest subsidiary of Idemitsu Oil develop new varieties of silk yarn, which developments are a nylon-based synthet- Co., is the same company offer superior stretch and wrinkle-re- ic fiber that can actively manage tem- that produces tempera- sistant properties. Designers in Gifu have developed perature, clothes made from paper- ture-regulating protein Makers unveiled hybrid silk — a yarn based yarn and varieties of silk yarn powder from silk. The paper-based yarn, of which these combining the natural fiber with nylon with new performance characteristics. protein material is used garments were constructed. filament — and stretch all-silk yarn at a Below, a look at some of the latest in mixture with plastics LAB to tearing. Rather, the tradi- recent Hybrid Silk Exhibition in Tokyo. textile technologies out of Japan: to make such products as tional “Mino” paper, a specialty A total of 51 research organizations and leather for automotive CHECK product produced in Gifu for 13 silk companies, including Dainippon Silk A WARM HEART upholstery and other centuries, is sliced into tapes Foundation, the Silk Science & Research A pair of Japanese textile companies products needing temperature control. and then spun into yarns. Institute and Japan Kimono Culture have developed a nylon conjugated with “We are combining traditional tech- Institute, participated in the annual show. a wax core that they said offers unique PAPER POWER nique and modern technology,” said a The hybrid silk is made by combining temperature-regulating properties. A cooperative of Japanese textile, ap- spokesman for Oribe Apparel Plaza, the raw silk and nylon filament. When the hy- The hybrid yarn is called Thermo parel and design companies in the Gifu group that developed the technology. brid yarn is scoured, the nylon filament Support, and makers Kanebo Gosen Ltd. prefecture have developed a technology The paper is slit into tapes ranging shrinks, turning the hybrid into untwisted and Idemitsu Technofine Co. said it is to make clothing out of paper yarn, from 2 millimeters to 5 millimeters in yarn of nylon filament covered by raw silk. the first of its kind. The fiber works by which they assert can be stronger than width, and the tapes are then spun into The stretch silk is made by combin- absorbing heat when the fabric’s tem- cotton and linen. yarn by twisting and plying. The yarn ing twisted and untwisted silk yarns perature rises above body temperature While some disposable garments can then be woven into fabrics that offer and putting them through a careful and releases heat when the fabric’s tem- have been made of paper or nonwoven moisture absorbency and breathability. scouring process. perature falls below body temperature. materials with a similar texture for Presently about 20 different kinds of “From olden times silk has been close- In cross section, the yarn looks like a years, this technology does not rely on paper yarn and 200 different items of ly related with man as a textile fiber of hard-boiled egg, with the petroleum- forming garments from full sheets of women’s and men’s wear are available, beauty, comfort and gentleness to skin,” based wax forming the yolk and the paper, which tend to be stiff and prone the spokesman said. Jackets are priced manufacturers said in a joint statement.

Spring/Summer 2005 SOURCING The Moore Company Textile Group Collection Preview! INDIAN Dallas APPAREL June 4-5, 2004 We Bring Stretch to Life! Dallas Market Center Show times: 8:30 am – 6:00 pm Manufacturers of Stretch Warp Knit Fabrics and Woven New York Narrow Elastic June 9-10, 2004 New York - Penn Plaza Pavilion Show times: 9:30 am – 6:00 pm Prepare for a New Sourcing Relationship with India! Sourcing Expo — Indian Apparel is your opportunity to learn how to source in a quota-free world and protect your supply chain by engaging directly with quality apparel suppliers in a vertically integrated country. This trade mission will be combined with an educational component featuring speakers such as Rodney Birkins,Vice President of JC Penney Purchasing Corporation, Jerry Cook,Vice President for International Trade, Sara Lee Branded Apparel, Wendy Wieland Martin, Director of Trade and Customs Services for Kellwood Company,Ted Sattler, Executive Vice President of Foreign Operations for Philips-Van Heusen, and Thomas G.Travis, Managing Partner of Sandler,Travis & Rosenberg, P.A. , discussing the post-quota environment and future sourcing strategies. Don’t miss the industry’s first comprehensive look at the impact these liberalizing trade measures can have on your textile and apparel business. Register for this FREE,two-day event today! You could win the 2005 IBERC Diagnostic Program!* Register today and you could win an assessment that includes an analysis of your products’ Organizedsourcing matrix by: and strategic recommendations on crafting a forward-looking sourcing strategy George C. Moore tailored to your needs. *A $15,000 value. See our website for contest details. New York, NY Westerly, RI Call 800-5TRADE-5,or visit Phone: (212) 279-7733 Fax: (212) 564-5325 Phone: ((401) 596-2816 Fax: (401) 596-8550 www.IndianApparelExpo.com to register today! www.darlingtonfabrics.com www.georgecmoore.com Los Angeles Los Angeles Organized by: Phone: (818) 786-4010 Fax: (818) 786-4033 Phone: (323) 255-9705 Fax: (323) 255-9893

Intimates • Swimwear • Activewear • Sportswear • Surgical/Medical 30 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004

Te xtiles & Trade Yucatán: Mexico’s Worries in Microcosm By Scott Malone Compounding the problem, Mexican factories have focused on basic products like jeans and casual pants, NEW YORK — Around the world, apparel manufacturers which retailers can afford to order earlier. are ticking off the days until the quota system ends and “It makes no sense to produce a commodity garment BUTOW/CORBIS DAVID PHOTO BY wondering what they can do to fend off the competitive in Mexico,” Birnbaum said. “It’s faster to produce in onslaught they will face next year from China and India. China and ship to the States.” In the Mexican state of Yucatán, the effort to keep an He said much of the industry’s problem is that it industry competitive has led to a plan to start a univer- evolved in a “maquila” model, in which foreign cus- sity that would focus on the latest in apparel and textile tomers were counted on to specify and finance raw ma- management. Proponents of the project hope to get terials, and fairly closely monitor factory operations. He started on putting together a program in the near fu- said few manufacturers in the state have adapted to the ture. But they face an uphill battle in trying to garner full-package garment production model many retailers funding in a region where exporters are losing ground and vendors require today, in which they place an order and the government is still struggling to rebuild from and pay upon delivery of a finished garment. Hurricane Isidor, which hit the area in September 2002. Adam Feldman, owner and president of E&R Textile Mexico’s apparel industry is seen as From 1996 to 2002, Mexico held the leading position SA de CV, a knitwear maker based in the Yucatán town highly vulnerable to Chinese competition. as the top supplier of imported textiles and apparel to of Halacho, called Birnbaum’s assessment “pretty dead- the U.S. The country benefited from the NAFTA pro- on…The industry will die in the Yucatán if something is gram, which affords duty- and quota-free access to not done.” Mexican and Canadian imports, and from a surge of in- Feldman’s company, founded in 1997, opened its cur- vestment by U.S. manufacturers looking to move their rent cut-and-sew facility, which employs about 400, in factories into a lower-cost territory. 2001. Initially, the company worked on a full-package COUNTRY FOCUS: But two years ago China regained its position as the model, but today most of the licensed apparel it pro- leading supplier to the U.S. of those categories. In the duces is made on a cut-and-sew basis. year ended Jan. 31, Chinese imports to the U.S. rose 29.6 “The cutting and sewing industry will only go on for so MEXICO percent to $11.81 billion, representing 15.3 percent of long here. Our goal is to build a full-service operation total U.S. imports. At the same time, number-two here,” he said, adding that he hoped to arrange financing GDP: $924.4 billion/$8,900 per capita (2002) Mexico saw its shipments fall 8.1 percent to $7.91 bil- for this by the end of the year. “We feel extremely strongly GDP Change: +0.7 percent from 2001 lion, for a market share of 10.2 percent. that if we don’t become a vertical operation, at some point Population: 104.9 million Yucatán’s apparel industry is small in the context of it’s not going to work on cutting and sewing down here.” Mexico as a whole. Consultant David Birnbaum, hired Feldman said what the state needs most is people with Unemployment: 3 percent by the state government to craft a plan to save its indus- the technical training to serve as plant engineers and me- Te xtile & Apparel Exports to U.S.: $7.91 billion, try, estimated that the southern state’s exports repre- chanics. He noted that he has had to recruit staffers from down 8.1 percent* sent less than 10 percent of the country’s total. elsewhere in Latin America to fill those posts. Key products: Cotton pants, cotton knit shirts, cotton Yet he called the problems Yucatán faces “a pretty “There are no trained people here, no engineers,” specialty yarn, denim accurate model of the rest of the country.” he said, adding that the state does have a large popula- Currency: 11.16 pesos = $1 U.S. Bernardo Cisneros, Undersecretary for Economic tion of young people who speak English and Spanish. Development in the state government, said the apparel in- Birnbaum said his proposed technical school would Apparel-manufacturing employment: 563,000 (2004) dustry employs about 28,000 in Yucatán. That’s a small per- aim to teach factory-level employees how to do their jobs Major companies: Kaltex SA de VC, Compañía Industrial centage of the state’s population of 1.7 million, but he said faster and more efficiently, and teach Mexican company de Parras, Joy Textile, Imasab it represents about 45 percent of formal employment in the owners how to compete better in today’s industry. Still, state, where many people work in subsistence agriculture. he and Cisneros estimated that they will need $2.2 mil- The U.S.’s southern neighbor remains one of its largest trad- Cisneros said the risk of losing those jobs to China or lion to get the project started and acknowledged that it’s ing partners overall, and last year was the nation’s second- other Far Eastern competitors when the nations of the currently unclear where the money for that would come. largest export destination and third-largest source of imports World Trade Organization lift their quotas on textiles Feldman said he had pledged to support the program in all categories of merchandise. Along with fellow NAFTA and apparel in 2005 “represents a serious threat, not financially. “That is definitely something that we would nation Canada, which remains the U.S.’s number one trade only because of how important the sector is for the over- contribute to,” he said. partner in imports and exports, Mexico enjoys the most gen- all employment of the state, but also because it gives Philippe Atlan, president of A&B Productions SA de erous trading benefits the U.S. offers any nation. Mexico’s jobs to people in less-favored regions or countries.” CV in Tecoh, said he believes a technical school is need- trade with the U.S. grew sharply through the latter half of the He said people who have become accustomed to hav- ed and that he’d be willing to help finance it. Nineties, as many American manufacturing companies — ing disposable income after years of employment in the “There is a lack of people with experience as far as including textile firms Burlington Industries and Cone Mills, industry “get used to spending, and if that disappears, we the garment industry is concerned,” Atlan said. “I think and apparel giants VF Corp. and Levi Strauss — turned to it will have to accommodate these people in other areas.” it’s a good idea. Otherwise, you have to pay a lot of as an attractive low-cost manufacturing platform. However, in He noted that an increase in rural unemployment money to bring people from the States or Europe.” recent years, Mexico has lost ground to China, despite the would likely tend to encourage people to migrate into Cisneros said that although the state’s budget has duty- and quota-free treatment under NAFTA. China last year crowded cities in search of jobs. This is a problem that been stretched thin paying for the recovery from the displaced Mexico to become the second-ranked supplier of all experts say will confront many developing nations next hurricane 18 months ago, he nevertheless has applied imported goods to the U.S. China is already the leading sup- year if they lose jobs to China. to the national government for funding and is looking to plier of imported textiles and apparel to the U.S., and indus- In a 65-page analysis of the industry, Birnbaum ar- local investors and manufacturers. So far, he said, about try observers have expressed concerns that Mexico, which still gued that the outlook for the Yucatán is bleak. One of his 10 companies have signaled that they’d be interested in holds a 10.2 percent share of the U.S. apparel and textile key reasons for concern was that his analysis of U.S. im- joining a consortium to fund the college, though contri- market, will lose further ground in 2005. Since 2000, port data showed the state is losing sales to China, even butions have not yet been forthcoming. employment in Mexico’s apparel industry has fallen by 24.8 while its prices are currently lower than China’s. Citing He added that he supports a drive by the Mexican percent. Mexican authorities and international observers also the example of cotton pants, he wrote than on average National Chamber of Textile Industry to extend the Jan. caution that the country’s unemployment figures leave out the Mexico’s prices on a landed, duty-paid basis are current- 1 deadline for quota elimination. large numbers of rural people who are underemployed or work ly 67.8 percent higher than China’s for the U.S. market. “That would give us a little more time to get our act togeth- in the informal economy. Given that the quota charges importers must pay to get er and get our abilities up to the level of competition in the *FOR THE 12 MONTHS ENDED JANUARY 2004, COMPARED WITH THE YEAR-EARLIER PERIOD. access to scarce Chinese quota rights today inflate world,” he said. “I am a believer of free trade. I do believe SOURCES: CIA WORLD FACTBOOK, U.S. COMMERCE DEPARTMENT, OANDA.COM AND CAMARA Chinese prices by as much as 50 percent, he said China that over the…longer term there is a benefit of doing that. NACIONAL DE LA INDUSTRIA DEL VESTIDO will become an even tougher competitor next year. But I wouldn’t like to see massive job losses in the state.”

C.M.T. Italiana Tessile TEXITALIA – Fabrics from Italy Cotonificio Veneto Cuomo Spring/Summer 2005 Duemilagori - Tessuti Fini April 26-28, 2004 9:00am to 5:00pm Efilan Gallus The Los Angeles International Textile Show Gruppo Fedora ITS Artea TEXITALIA SEMINAR Fashion Theater – California Market Center 110 East Ninth Street, Los Angeles, CA Pacini Nello ITALIAN FABRIC DIRECTIONS Ritmotex by ANGELO USLENGHI Romi April 26, 2004 at 8:30 am Seterie Argenti California Market Center, room C686 33 East 67th Street, New York, NY 10021 Taiana Virgilio tel: (212) 980-1500 fax: (212) 758-1050 For more information please contact the email: [email protected] Teseo Italian Trade Commission at 212.848.0335 websites: www.italtrade.com Vasino WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004 31 Burberry Leads New Asian Wave Continued from page one year, while Armani is arriving in Shanghai this week for the opening of his Armani and Emporio Armani stores covering almost 12,000 square feet. Meanwhile, Louis Vuitton will open global stores in Tokyo, Osaka, Japan and Shanghai this year; Chanel will open a store on the first three floors of the 10-story, 66,500-square-foot Chanel Ginza Building in Tokyo in December, and Jacobs has announced plans to open his first store in China this fall, also in Shanghai. “China is where all luxury brands are going,” said Dana Telsey, an analyst with Bear Stearns. “The Chinese are being more consumers of luxury. It is a good time to invest and the area will grow over time.” Goldman Sachs has estimated that China’s luxury market is now worth about $2 billion, a fraction of its overall clothing and apparel market and only about 3 percent of global luxury goods sales of $65 billion. Clare Kent, luxury analyst at Morgan Stanley in London, has predicted that profits for luxury brands in China are at least five years away as wealth levels remain low among consumers and brands continue to face import duties of up to 35 percent on some products. But luxe executives — like those in every other industry — remain eager to get in on the ground floor of the potentially huge Chinese market; Kent predicts the country eventually could rival Japan as a consumer of luxury goods. Meanwhile, the store openings and growing demand in Asia are among the reasons luxury brands are bullish in their outlook for 2004 following a strong end to 2003. Gucci Group, for example, said its organic growth in Asia was 25 percent last year. “We are more confident in our forecast,” Patrick Houel, chief financial officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said last week as the group announced its best sales performance in five quarters. “We had a very good start to the year and we are much more optimistic than we were in December.” Houel pointed to the more favorable economic and monetary environments worldwide, as well as the improving tourism and the expanding economies in the U.S. and the Far East, as contributing to the strong outlook. Even though sales of the Vuitton brand in Japan in the first quarter were flat, this resulted from increased travel by Japanese tourists to other markets. “The Japanese luxury market has come back significantly in the last year, driven by the increasing consumer confidence, the rise in the Japanese stock market and the increased spending by Japanese consumers,” said Gilbert W. Harrison, chairman of Financo Inc. Burberry’s opening last week on Tokyo’s Omotesando Boulevard — which is attracting the world’s luxury brands in increasing numbers — signaled the sector’s growing confidence about the all-important Japanese market, which, in some cases, can account for up to 30 percent of a luxury brand’s sales. Burberry’s chief executive officer, Rose Marie Bravo, and creative director, Christopher Bailey, flew over for the opening, which included a runway show and a dinner. The show was held at the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery, the first time it was used for a fashion show, which was Bailey’s idea. The Omotesando store uses British materials and themes in a contemporary way. The interiors, designed by the company’s store-planning team, include custom-made furniture and furnishings, chrome fireplaces and fitting room walls decorated with Burberry signature buttons and leather buckles. Other decorations include a stainless steel floor-to-ceiling mobile by British artist Miranda Watkins, inverted cherry tree sculptures, and hand-molded and hand- painted resin flower sculptures in vases. The two-floor store, with 6,000 square feet of floor space, offers Burberry’s two top collections of men’s and women’s wear, Burberry Prorsum and Burberry London, and includes fashion accessories and fragrances. “Japan is our most important market and Tokyo is a very important city,” Bravo said when explaining why Burberry opened the store. “We felt we very much wanted a Burberry presence in Omotesando, and we wanted to position the brand amongst the other luxury greats. “The Japanese market is one of the most exciting markets in the world,” Bravo added, then said she continues to be impressed with the sophistication of the Japanese consumers and their “great craving” for luxury and quality, Burberry’s Omotesando store.

Rose Marie Bravo along with their knowledge of brands. She declined to comment on how much Burberry invested in the new store, but said it is “positioned at the highest level.” The company is working closely with its Japanese partners, Mitsui and Sanyo Shokai, to “give the market a vision of what the Burberry brand is around the world,” Bravo said. James Hurley, the luxury goods analyst with Bear Stearns, said the key to the new

PHOTOS BY MAKOTO ARAI MAKOTO PHOTOS BY store is it’s entirely funded by Burberry’s Japanese distribution partners, but the brand will have control over the merchandising and product. Telsey said in her research note Monday that, although it is reasonable to expect Burberry to see its sales volume gains in Japan “naturally begin to moderate after strong double-digit growth over the last few years [during fiscal 2003, Burberry’s Japanese sales volumes rose an impressive 10 percent],” the luxury brand continues to “surprise on the upside.” Telsey’s second-half, 2004 licensing revenue growth forecast “is consistent with the 10 percent growth that Burberry achieved in [the company’s most recently reported quarter]. Our growth in licensing revenue reflects the benefit of higher royalty rates in Japan, as well as the success of emerging licensed-product categories such as children’s wear, eyewear and fragrances.” Japan isn’t Burberry’s only focus, however, Bravo said, pointing to the company’s plans to open more stores in China this year, with the goal of having more than 30 by the end of 2004. “So we have been very aggressive in many of the Asian markets,” Bravo said, then noted Burberry has recently opened two stores in Hong Kong, as well as new ones in Singapore, Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia and Australia. Harrison of Financo said Burberry is a natural for the Chinese market. However, he questioned whether there were currently 30 locations that have the financial demo- graphics to support a Burberry store, “but certainly, over time, this is something they can achieve.” Hurley noted Burberry is entering the Chinese market with local dis- tributors, so it doesn’t have to invest its own capital if the program doesn’t work. At the latest count, Burberry-owned, directly operated stores worldwide totaled 114, with 68 in Asia, 27 in the U.S. and 19 in Europe. In addition, there were 141 other stores and outlets owned and operated by Burberry’s license partners throughout the A Burberry display. world, including the new Japanese unit. — With contributions from Jennifer Weitzman, New York 32 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004

president of the organization. Shugart said the organization approached Stuart to sit among the 11 Fashion Scoops judges (which include Los Angeles Lakers owner Jerry Buss and NASCAR driver Jeff Gordon) based on their long-term UNITE to Organize ON FIRE: Bloomingdale’s hottest-selling and sassiest T-shirt relationship; Stuart has designed dresses for the show in isn’t something you want to see your boss wearing. It says the past and winners have worn her line to premieres and “You’re Fired!” and was inspired by Donald Trump and the events. The designer joins such high-profile colleagues in hit reality show, “The Apprentice.” More than 2,000 units the pageant’s 53-year history as Roberto Cavalli, Nicole 200 H&M Workers have been sold since the shirts were put on display March Miller, Carolina Herrera, Betsey Johnson, Max Azria and 12 in the Young East Sider and men’s departments, Stuart Weitzman. “I used to watch the event as a kid and By Scott Malone fall, and in November alleged Bloomingdale’s said. Trump, parlaying his boardroom loved it, and now my youngest daughter, Sophie Curtis, is that the company had unfairly statement into a fashion one, codesigned and approved crazy about it so I’m doing it for her and for nostalgia,” NEW YORK — UNITE said laid off 14 staffers who had been the cotton Ts, working with Bloomingdale’s, which sells Stuart said through a spokeswoman. While in town for the Monday it had won the right to injured on the job and who had them in 28 stores. Made by Project E, “You’re Fired!” five days, she said antique shopping on La Brea Avenue organize some 200 workers at supported unionization. Scott male Ts are $36 and available in white and charcoal. For was her guilty pleasure. Swedish retailer H&M’s U.S. Zradzil, a senior researcher with women, there are tank tops, priced at $24, in gray and distribution centers in Secau- the union, said some of those white or white and red. The show’s finale is Thursday. SPINDLER MEMORIAL PLANS: The late Amy M. Spindler cus, N.J., and Cheshire, Conn. workers had since been rehired Meanwhile,“You’re hired” might have been the phrase will be memorialized at an event on April 25, scheduled The development comes at a but that others were still waiting Jill Stuart heard when she was asked to judge a parade of on the night preceding the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s time when the union is pushing to be called back to work. 51 beauties at Monday night’s Miss USA pageant Costume Institute benefit. About 400 guests are to expand its operations outside He said one of the union’s key broadcast from the Kodak Theatre in Hollywood. After all, expected at the invitation-only event, to be held at the its traditional base of apparel goals as it begins negotiating a Trump and NBC are the partners behind the event’s parent Rainbow Room. Spindler, the former style editor of The and textile manufacturing em- contract for the workers in the company, the Miss Universe Organization, and have final New York Times Magazine and a longtime fashion critic at ployees, and union officials said coming weeks would be “to im- approval on all judges, according to Paula Shugart, the paper, died on Feb. 27 from a malignant brain tumor. their next step would be to seek prove safety in the workplace.” to organize the chain’s approxi- One of the affected employees mately 2,000 store-level employ- is Deyanire Bautista, 29, who has ees in the U.S. In July, UNITE is worked for the company three expected to merge with the and a half years and is currently Hotel Employees & Restaurant a picker in the warehouse. Victoria’s Secret Off the Tube Employees International Union “I feel very grateful that we to form UNITE HERE. have won the right to be repre- Continued from page 2 bolder and better in terms of served as a powerful marketing who proposed fining Clear bolstering the brand for holiday tool for the brand and our prod- Channel Communications $495,000 sales,” said the Victoria’s Secret ucts. We’ve broken Internet Retail workers, especially apparel for sexually explicit materials on spokesman. He would not elabo- viewing records and been the “ the Howard Stern Show. rate other than to say, “At the first network televised fashion retail workers, are among the lowest- The Victoria’s Secret show end of the day, it’s about gener- show. Major achievements.” habitually generated scores of ating sales for holiday.” He said Razek noted that in order to paid workers in our economy. complaints by viewers to the the company has its current TV continue to grow the brand, “We ” FCC, which three years ago in- commercial with Bob Dylan and constantly challenge our gift-giving — Bruce Raynor, UNITE vestigated the brand for some of is evaluating other opportuni- through a new holiday campaign.” “This is part of UNITE’s or- sented by the union,” she said its on-air antics but later ruled ties to market the brand. Last year, Victoria’s Secret ganizing workers in apparel-relat- through an interpreter. “Now, we they weren’t indecent. Ed Razek, Victoria’s Secret upped the ante for a second sea- ed industries that are not subject- can finally start negotiating the Victoria’s Secret, whose sexy chief creative officer, was in son on CBS, which presented ed to offshoring, like distribu- things that we want in our jobs.” lingerie brand is well known leadership meetings Monday the show like a Broadway musi- tion,” said union president Bruce UNITE said the union was from Boston to Baghdad, has and could not be reached. cal with a cabaret-style vignette, Raynor in a phone interview. recognized through a card-check plans to respin and market the However, in a statement he said: laced with live performances by “We’ve now entered discussions process, in which the number of brand into “something bigger, “The Victoria’s Secret show has Sting, Mary J. Blige and Eve. regarding a proposal on the rules union cards signed by facility em- of organizing workers in the ployees was counted to deter- stores. Retail workers, especially mine whether a majority support- apparel retail workers, are ed unionization. That marks the among the lowest-paid workers in second time the union has recent- our economy — and that’s a grow- ly used the process successfully ing sector of our economy. It’s a — it also did so in organizing dis- significant group of workers that tribution workers at Brylane. needs union representation.” UNITE said a majority of H&M representatives in the workers signed cards in late U.S. and Europe did not respond March, but that H&M declined to to phone calls. accept the results and sent the UNITE’s 200,000 or so mem- matter to an arbitrator. The arbi- Why bers already include store-level tration decision came last week. employees at retailers including Union officials have argued Brooks Bros., Barneys and Jos. that card checks are a good alter- walk A Bank. native to elections overseen by The union had been cam- the National Labor Relations paigning to organize the distribu- Board. Both methods of ratifica- when tion-center workers since the tion are considered legitimate. you can Elliott, Adidas Sign Deal Continued from page 2 pany was a favorite of early rap- spring with Madonna. She is pers such as Run-DMC, who fly? currently featured in ads for helped fuel the craze for the MAC Cosmetics. brand as a fashion look in the Elliott, who couldn’t be mid-Eighties and even had a reached for comment Monday, song called “My Adidas.” got her start in the music busi- In recent years, Adidas has fo- ness as a writer, penning songs cused on building up its women’s for artists such as Mariah Carey apparel, and on offering collec- Fast access to the The news online at 12:01am EDT and P. Diddy before launching tions and not just items. It also 6 continents, 11 bureaus, 203 her solo career in 1997. She now has entered other fashion-orient- news, people and writes and produces all her own ed collaborations, including its reporters for unmatched coverage tunes. The timing for the press successful partnership with de- events impacting Search the previous five issues of WWD online conference today coincides with signer Yohji Yamamoto. 24/7 access on your desktop, anytime, anywhere her performance Monday night Nonetheless, while Nike and the industry at Madison Square Garden with Puma have gone more aggres- worldwide. Beyoncé and Alicia Keys on the sively into fashion, Adidas has “Ladies First” tour. Elliot and continued to stress that it want- Beyoncé wore Dolce & Gabbana ed to maintain its focus on ath- on stage as part of their acts. letic and performance products. For Adidas, the collection However, as its sales have sput- will help the German company tered recently, especially in build up the fashion end of its North America, the company is Go to WWD.com business and capture some of trying a range of strategies to re- the sales going to brands such as gain momentum. It recently Puma, which has steadily built tapped Erich Stamminger, a 20- first. insider. authoritative. global. up its nonperformance offer- year veteran of the company, as ings. While its focus has long its U.S. president and chief ex- been on performance, Adidas is ecutive officer, succeeding Ross no stranger to hip-hop. The com- McMullin, who left the company. CFDA Fashion Awards

5th Annual CFDA Issue Perfect Bound Issue: June 1, 2004 Close: May 3

The highly anticipated issue marking the 2004 CFDA Fashion Awards, the American fashion industry’s biggest event of the year. From their front-row seat in the industry, WWD editors will focus on the business of fashion. WWD offers in-depth coverage through exclusive interviews profiling each nominee.

Without a ticket, this is the only chance to get inside this monumental industry event to reach the fashion elite and major celebrity presenters.

Bonus distribution: CFDA Fashion Awards

For more information, contact Ralph Erardy, SVP Group Publisher at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 34 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004 Obituary Jerome M. Nemiro, 85 Valentino: Bridal and Beyond By Eric Wilson ready-to-wear collection that LOS ANGELES — Jerome M. A 50-year veteran of retailing, was based on a bag from Nemiro, president of the former Nemiro was described by col- NEW YORK — Two years into Valentino’s January couture Bullocks Wilshire, who took the leagues as a quiet and dignified the marriage of Valentino and show. Another all-croc version stodginess out of the store and man who took the time to get to Marzotto SpA, the designer has of the bag, in Valentino’s signa- the apostrophe out of the name- know all of his store employees finally stopped having cold feet ture red, is being designed for plate, died Friday night at the and befriended many of them. about selling his bridal designs Bergdorf ’s Christmas catalogue. Berkley Convalescent Hospital He was an avid tennis player to the general public. Also, after several successful here of natural causes after sev- and continued to play until last Valentino might be known as private couture events in New eral years struggling with May. He served in the U.S. Army the designer of wedding gowns York and Palm Beach, Fla., in Parkinson’s Disease. He was 85. Air Corps during World War II. for several famous or privileged recent seasons, the accessories While he worked at Bullocks Nemiro served on several clients — Jennifer Lopez (for used in the designer’s recent Wilshire from 1974 until 1987, boards, including the Friends of her brief marriage to Chris couture shows, including bags Nemiro expanded the depart- the School Volunteer Program of Judd), French actress Clotilde priced from $1,500 to $20,000, ment store chain from three to the Los Angeles Unified School Courau to Prince Emanuele will be featured at Valentino’s seven stores and from $30 mil- District; the International Filiberto, Jackie Kennedy to New York and Los Angeles lion in annual volume to $100 Student Center at the University Aristotle Onassis — but he has stores in the coming weeks. A sketch of million. In 1983, he launched of California at Los Angeles; the resisted selling bridal at retail “The U.S. is definitely the one of the company’s national mail- National Jewish Medical and throughout his career, until now. market where we’ve seen the Valentino’s order business. Research Center of Denver; the The designer created three best reaction to what we’ve been first retail He was a firm believer in Los Angeles Tennis Club; styles, which debuted in his doing with Valentino,” said bridal special events, and was among Southwestern University-UCLA New York flagship this month, Michele Norsa, ceo of Valentino offerings. the earlier purveyors of import School of Law Board of Visitors; as his introduction into the wed- and general manager of Marzotto extravaganzas featuring exotic the Advisory Board of the Fashion ding market. Apparel, in a phone interview merchandise from Europe and Institute of Design and Merchan- “We want to manage, monitor from the company’s headquar- other continents. dising, and the Otis Art Institute of and execute this in the proper ters in Italy. “One reason is that Nemiro was also successful Parsons School of Design. way, but going into weddings is a in the U.S., there are very strong in differentiating Bullocks He is survived by his second natural for Valentino,” said retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue, Wilshire from the parent wife, Dolores Naar; a son, Guy; Graziano de Boni, president and Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Bullock’s. Both had been divi- two daughters, Lee Ganey and chief executive officer of Marcus. Once we presented our sions of Federated Department Dee Van Romer; three stepchil- Valentino Inc. and Marzotto USA, plan to rejuvenate Valentino and Stores Inc., which eventually dren, Sharman Miller, Andy the American arm of the Marzotto they agreed with it, they have re- merged Bullock’s Wilshire into Naar and Peter Naar, and 10 operations. “It’s a given.” acted very fast.” I. Magnin. That chain was subse- grandchildren. Memorial serv- Expanding Valentino’s offer- In its most recent financial re- quently folded into Macy’s West. ice plans are pending. ings, from bringing the high-end port last November, Marzotto couture collection to the U.S. to outlined several points that indi- early 2005, while there are also the introduction of a new diffu- cate Valentino has regained talks to develop jewelry and sion collection last year, has some momentum in its retail and tabletop collections under the been as much of a priority of wholesale operations. Sales for Valentino brand. Fresh Launches Sugar Blossom Marzotto management since ac- the first nine months of 2003 rose “For me, 2003 was the year quiring the company in May 7.6 percent to $137.8 million, we dedicated to the U.S. and to NEW YORK — Fresh is getting Treatment, $36 for a 3.4-oz. tube, 2002 as improving the quality of while this spring’s wholesale or- licenses, but 2004 is for Japan,” ready to pour some more sweet contains hibiscus flower acids the designer’s retail distribu- ders were up by 20 percent. said Norsa. “Japan was pene- stuff on consumers with the said to advance the cell renewal tion and mending relationships In the first two years of its trated by Valentino a long time launch of its latest creation, the process and soften skin as well with its biggest specialty store ownership of Valentino, Marzotto ago, but it has remained, in Sugar Blossom collection, due as alpha hydroxy acids, sugar customers. In an interview at has focused on rebuilding the terms of location and image, far out in May. and hydrating oils such as apri- his office here last week, de U.S. market, which represents behind the rest of the luxury The 13-year-old Boston-based cot kernel and camellia seed. Boni outlined several initia- about a quarter of the brand’s brands. My aim is to get control beauty company — part of the Industry sources estimate tives planned for Valentino that worldwide sales, but had been of that market, probably with a LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis that the Sugar Blossom collec- ailing prior to the acquisition. partner, and start to plan for the Vuitton group — launched its tion could do as much as $5 mil- Valentino’s American business relocation and redecoration of first confectionary products, in- lion in its first year at retail. was weighted heavily toward its our shops and boutiques. That is spired by the application of The brand is also set to launch own stores, with only 30 percent probably our number-one com- sugar in remedies to speed the its first sun care products at the of sales from other retailers, but mitment for this year, while I healing process, in 1997. end of April. Sunshield Face and that ratio is now approaching a think of China as a big opportu- “[Sugar] has been a very suc- Body SPF 30, $48 for 5.1 oz., a 50-50 split, de Boni said. With the nity for 2005.” cessful line for us ever since we lightweight formulation that introduction of the younger- Meanwhile, in the U.S., de introduced it,” noted Lev boasts a sheer citrus scent, is for- skewing Valentino R.E.D., and Boni sees potential in continu- Glazman, chief executive officer mulated with Thermus Thermo- reopening wholesale accounts ing to offer higher-priced acces- phillus ferment, a deep-sea algae for men’s wear like Barneys New sories and designs from —with properties that intensify York and Saks Fifth Avenue, the Valentino’s couture collection, BEAUTY BEAT as temperatures rise and UV rays company has been able to also betting that a recent rebound in become stronger — and contains reduce its dependence on collec- general luxury business will of Fresh. “Obviously, there are a powerful enzymes that are acti- tion sales, which can be more last. He compared the fashion lot of companies that made the vated by the sun and stop free This zebra-print pony-skin handbag cyclical. industry’s current direction with concept their own, and that’s why radicals from breaking down col- Looking forward, Norsa and that of the automotive industry, will be carried exclusively by Neiman it’s important for us to continue lagen and harming healthy skin de Boni said Valentino’s ambi- which after recent additions of to innovate — we will continue cells. Top Protection Layer SPF Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. tions will be to improve its in- more affordably priced luxury putting products in the sugar line 20, $48 for 1 oz., is suitable for all frastructure in Asia and Europe, sedans, like the Mercedes C- that are innovative and more dif- skin types and contains a soy pro- underscore its recent turn- and to continue to explore cate- Class, has since turned to ultra- ficult to copy.” tein complex to increase cell res- around in the U.S., including gories that are appropriate for expensive editions of Maybachs Glazman said the Sugar piration and stimulate collagen the bridal line and creating ex- the brand. The bridal launch is and McLarens. Blossom collection was “a very synthesis. It also features Fresh clusive product for retailers. a first step, with three styles “If a guy can put $100,000 complex project” that took three Advanced Vitamin Release For example, Bergdorf priced from $3,850 to $8,200 in down for a car he has to wait for years to develop. He also said the Complex, which is said to repair Goodman, which opened a reno- flower-inspired silhouettes. three years to get, why can’t his new [foaming] texture in the previous UV damage. vated 700-square-foot Valentino Another area to develop is its wife put down $50,000 on a suit?” Sugar Blossom Body Treatment “In both formulas, we added a in-store shop last month, and fragrance business, which is de Boni asked. “In the 21st centu- is very different from the original new dimension of treatment uti- Neiman Marcus will exclusively being overhauled in a new deal ry, luxury has become mass. What Sugar Body Polish, and the prod- lizing signature ingredients, like carry a zebra-print pony skin with Procter & Gamble’s differentiates the average con- ucts in the line, which contain soy and algae, that promote im- handbag with black crocodile Prestige Beauté division that sumer from the luxury consumer, floral acids, are “very active.” mediate recovery from UV expo- handles and lining from the fall will see its first big launch in in this case, is the couture.” The Sugar Blossom Eau de sure and stimulate long-term re- Parfum, which retails for $75 for pair of past damage to give you a 3.4-oz. bottle, contains top everything you need and going notes of bergamot, Italian lemon, one step further,” said Glazman. South Korea deal follows recent licensing agreements in litsea and basil; middle notes of Sources estimate the sun Singapore, Malaysia and Taiwan. — David Hall masdevallia nectar, sheer mag- products could garner retail nolia, sugared passion fruit, sales of as much as $1.5 million ASIA WATCH GEOX IN HONG KONG: Italian shoemaker Geox has opened transparent jasmine and lily of in the first year on counter. a flagship on Hong Kong’s Nathan Road as part of its the valley, and bottom notes of The Sugar Blossom collection expansion efforts in Asia. The Geox Concept Shop is caramel, vanilla, marjoram and and sun products will be avail- EVERLAST DEAL: Everlast Worldwide is teaming up with owned by the company’s Hong Kong franchisee, Mirabell creamy amber. Sugar Blossom able in Neiman Marcus, Sephora, Seoul-based Image & Craft Planning Co. to launch International Holdings. Mirabell operates 40 stores in Body Treatment, positioned as a Barneys New York, Bergdorf Everlast-branded products in South Korea. The new Hong Kong and Macau and is a major distributor of Geox restorative polishing balm, con- Goodman and Fresh stores. The Everlast products, including men’s and women’s products in the region. Mirabell shops also feature tains brown sugar and floral Fresh brand is currently sold in sportswear, as well as footwear, will be introduced in South footwear from companies such as Rockport, Florsheim acids for a foaming, exfoliating 320 doors and will be entering 14 Korea later this year. Everlast said expanding its licensing and Skechers. Geox operates in 68 countries and claims formula. It retails for $62 for a Saks Fifth Avenue doors in May. activities in Asia is one of the company’s top priorities. The to be the eighth-largest shoemaker in the world. — D.H. 8.8-oz. jar. Sugar Blossom Hand —Kristin Finn WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2004 35

Technical Designer to$65-80K Looking for New Buyers: Assistant to Designer/ Marketing Rep/ Boys N-20 PDM. Specs, grades, etc India based Indian Yarn Dyed Fabric Production Manager Direct Sales Janet Stevens *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Mfr. having off-shore garment produc- Major Sportswear Co. seeks a A leading co. providing pro. services to [email protected] tion facilities in Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, responsible person with knowledge of the bridal mkt. seeks a highly motivated Jersey + Rib Lycra and Vietnam seeks apparel importers/ all aspects of overseas production. &dedicated indivi. to direct our mktg. Fleece + Velour vendors of reputed retailers to make Must be able to prepare trim sheets, tech. efforts & to asst. in inside sales to brides. TECHNICAL MANAGER Drake Fabrics use of these facilities. Handled large DESIGNERS packs, cutting tickets and track ship- Must have excellent organizational & 718-389-8902 volumes for Wal-mart, USA. Interested ments. Bi-Lingual (Chinese/English) with comm. skills & must be proficient in MS FOR PATTERN DEPT parties, please email to : Southwest Apparel min. 3 years experience. Office & Outlook. Sal. + bonus commen- Moderate sportswear manufacturer [email protected] Manufacturer seeks: Fax resume to: 212-967-8018 surate with exp. Please e-mail resume: seeks experienced technical manager [email protected] for pattern dept to join our woven production team. Candidates must (1) Two professional designers ASST DESIGNER $55K PATTERNMAKER / TECHNICAL have full knowledge of garment for young missy, contempo- Pvt Label. Illustrate, Fabric, Mills DESIGNER construction. Good organizational and CASH FOR FABRICS [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 computer skills. We buy large or small lots rary line. Requirements: 3-5 Fax resume: 212-730-2531 Prompt Payment! years exp., extensive off shore BABY PHAT/ PHAT FARM Call 917-749-4112 TECHNICAL DESIGNER Trend driven, strong knowledge of travel, eye for new trendy Candidate must have a minimum 5 yrs construction, experience w/ knit & TEXTILE DESIGNER Contractor Wanted colors, prints & treatment for experience. Knowledge of spec develop- wovens a must. Adrianna Papell High-End, Small Quanitity Production item driven sportswear. Knowl- ment from sketches, garment construc- Fax resume to: 212-941-0114 Better Dress & Eve Co seeks organ- sewing appliques onto T-shirts. tion, fit analysis. Able to follow through ized, detailed indiv to create prints, re- 201-447-1461 edge of knits a plus. Organiza- all aspects of sample development Patternmaker to $60K. Current exp. in peats, re-coloring, beading & embroid tional skills a must. and production. Computer literate and kids woven bottoms and sportswear re- designs. Min 3 yrs experience. Com- highly organized. Please indicate quired. 1st patern only OK. 1411 Broad- puter skills a must. E-mail resume to: salary requirements. way. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy [email protected] CLOSE OUTS (2) Freelance Design person, Fax resume to : 212-564-7418 We Buy Men’s, experience in prints & novelty PRODUCTION ASSISTANT t-shirts. Can work into perma- BOOKKEEPER/ Immediate opening for production TEXTILE DESIGNER Women’s & Children’s assistant for NYC based apparel whole- Established outerwear company is All Quantities nent position for young missy FULL CHARGE saler. Seeking computer literate self- seeking an experienced textile design- WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY contemporary sportswear line. starter. Must be detail oriented to er. Originate color and weaving pat- CHINESE BILINGUAL assist Production Manager with terns for men’s suit separates. Account We are nice people to deal with Private apparel importer seeks full cutting tix, schedules, trimmings management and merchandising fol- P.S. Large Piece Good Deals E-mail resume to charge bookkeeper. Min. 5 yrs. work inventory and quality control. Benefits low up including execution of sample Also HBA and General Merchandise. [email protected] knowledge in all acctg. applications. plus 401K Plan. yardage and pre production proto, Hard working, Checkable refs, Fax resume/salary rq. (646) 366-8742 maintain fabric library. Call Rocky 800-762-5488 Familiar w/computerized acctg. Fax resume w/ salary requirements programs. Aria is a plus. PRODUCTION COORD $65K to 212-643-0593 Designer Fax res./salary history/req. 212-354-2661 or email [email protected] Jr. Moderate Sportswear. Tracking, Cutting Tickets, Lab Dip Danskin, Inc., well established [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Textile Import Converter active apparel co. has an immed. DESIGN/ADMINISTRATIVE Correspond w/ overseas mills on daily opening for a dynamic designer to Midtown garment mfg seeks entry Production basis, detail oriented w/ good comp level candidate to act as liaison skills, ability to multi-task in a fast work with functional body/workout between showroom & production. Coordinator paced environment, strong import prod wear. Great eye for color and trend, Must be detail oriented & organized. Major’swomen’sand children’saccesso- exp w/ textiles, order processing, L/C’s 5 yrs. exp. nec. Must be able to Responsibilities include boards, ries company seeks a highly motivated Fax Resume 212-695-7548 maintain library, work with sewers, Production Coordinator with a mini- devel. product from concept stage sample inventory. Fabric knowledge a mum of 2 years experience who through hand-off to production, plus. Fax resume to Susan H. 212-704-0576 thrives in an upbeat and faced paced off-shore devel. a must. Proto environment. Responsibilities will in- DESIGN ASSISTANT clude daily communication with over- specs, flats & fitting exp. nec. Better Woman apparel seeks: seas vendors, act as a liaison between Adobe Illustrator & Photo Shop Designer Assist: Current min two design and sales depts. regarding art- working knowledge req. Competitive years exp. In better to bridge market. work and sales order details and vari- Fluent English /Mandarin. Proficient ous other follow up issues. comp & benefits package. Send with Photoshop, illustrator. Knowl- resumes w/ sal. history to: edge of fabrics, fittings, sketching & The ideal candidate must be a Team [email protected] or spec. Player, detail oriented, organized and Email resume to [email protected] possess excellent written and verbal Fax to 212-930-9103. communication skills. Computer liter- ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE EOE/M/F/V ate a must, AS400 experience a plus. Lantis Eyewear Corp., a designer, marketer & 3000 sq ft $5500 Flatiron 19th St. Design Assistant distributor of sunglasses, has an immediate Designed loft/showroom, 14’ Ceilings, Prior experience with Wal-Mart Retail Young designer collection launch needs Link also helpful. opening for an Acct. Mgr. w/ 3+ yrs exp successfully natural light. Shared conference area, candidate to assist the designer w/all managing specialty retail accts w/ ability to kitchen, private bath & office, Central Accessory Company aspects of the line’s seasonal develop- We offer an excellent compensation bring in new business. Midtown office. Great AC, alarm, DSL, passenger and freight ment. Must be computer proficient as comp. & benefits. EOE. M/F/D/V. elevator. Turnkey. 24 hr. access. CHINA-QUOTA FREE Large Accessory Co. starting new jewel- and benefits package including a well as technical in terms of fitting and 401(k) plan. For immediate considera- Send resume w/ salary requ. to: Call David @ 212-473-4760 All categories incl cotton jeans. High ry div. Designers, sales & support staff specing garments with at least 2 years needed. Benefits + good salaries. NY tion please fax resumes including sal- [email protected] or http://www.galante.com/st1.htm quality, large vol., FOB or LDP. Call experience in the industry. Please Fax fax to {201} 766-7717 Scott 212-719-2450/Victor 323-266-7711 position. Fax 201-840-9689 ary history and requirements to: all resumes to Stephanie at: 212-842-3217 37th St. Full Floor 7500 ft. 212-473-7301 or 212-473-7133 Beautifully Built Move In Condition ADMIN ASSIST $8 HOUR Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Filing, Answer Phones, E-mails PRODUCTION MGR Apparel Sales Rep Search-www.manhattanoffices.com PATTERN/SAMPLES Personals. 34th St & 7th Ave Midtown DESIGNER Established Co in LA seeks experienced Call Susie 212-947-3400 JUNIOR CUT AND SEW KNITS CHINESE BILINGUAL Sales Rep to sell women’s apparel. For Space in Garment Center Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Private owned Apparel Co. seeks a Must have established relationships work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Major Junior National Brand (New York City based) seeks creative and experi- production mgr w/min. 5 yrs exp & with Chain/Dept/Mass Market stores. Helmsley-Spear, Inc. good understanding in woven or Fax resume to 323-266-0600 212-880-0414 Admin. Assistant enced person to head up domestic cut Patterns/Samples/Beading Well known consultant with Fashion Co. and sew division. This person should knitted sportswear. The candidate clients seeks ENTRY LEVEL candidate be able to deal with the quick turn of must be detail oriented, excellent Showroom / Office / Retail Duplicates Cut & Sew w/excellent computer skills & profes- the junior business. The ideal person follow-up in all phases of production VP Sales We find you space-best deal-no fee Full Service - Good Quality sional phone manner to work 4½ days/wk. should have extensive knowledge of with overseas. Hard working, Chinese Sublet 525 7th/ready Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 in a Boutique/Office environment. Please the domestic piece goods and trim mar- / English a must. Computer skills. C’N’C CoSTUME NATIONAL Garment Center Real Estate Fax resume to: 212-730-9024 kets. In addition this person should Fax resume w/salary requirements C’N’C CoSTUME NATIONAL seeks Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 have the ability and experience to to 212-354-2661 sales driven professional with a PATTERNS, SAMPLES, work closely with our sales team minimum of 5-7 years experience in Showrooms & Lofts as well as oversee our sample room. RECEPTIONIST the contemporary market. Ideal PRODUCTIONS ADMIN ASST. Computer skills in Adobe, Photoshop candidate must have established BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Leading Men’s Retailer/Manufacturer General office and customer service and Illustrator would be helpful. seeks motivated person for receptionist relationships with department and Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Call Sherry 212-719-0622. responsibilities. Strong verbal/written specialty stores, the ability to bring in ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Please fax your resume to Jimmy @ position. Must be computer literate, have communication skills needed. Word / 212-290-8998 good communication skills, be detail new accounts, strong product Excel a must.Please fax resume to: oriented and organized. Some experience knowledge and possess excellent SPACE PRICE REDUCED PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Alfred Dunner Inc. @ 212-719-9684 required. Friendly office atmosphere communication skills. 1500-10,000SqFt Shwrm/Office/Design DESIGNER with full company benefits. Please fax resumes to 212-581-6756 Must see! Call Allan Gallaway PRODUCTIONS ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Rapidly growing moderate Missy Sweater/ Please fax resume to: (917) 777-0508 Bernstein R.E. 212-594-1414 Ext 251 Samples and patterns full servcie shop Sportswear Co. seeks exp’d. Designer to the trade. Fine fast work. Piece Goods with the ability to multi-task, and spot SALES ASSISTANT SALES ASSOC/ASST MGR 212-869-2699. Established Better Men’s & Women’s trends & silhouettes. Seeking a self French Fashion House. Exc package starter; organized and computer savvy, Fashion costume jewelry co. seeks FAX: 212-481-4086 [email protected] Sportswear Co. seeks a detail oriented person as a backup to Sales Executive individual to assist Piece Goods Dept. w/strong CAD, print, and pattern sense. Must be a team player w/knowledge of to major retailers. Must have complete Must have 1 - 2 years experience & be knowledge of Excel and Photoshop. computer literate. Fax resumes to: both knit & woven fabrics. Fax resume & salary requirements to: 212-840-5809 Good organizational skills a must. 212-473-7301 or 212-473-7133 Fax: 212-481-4244 Division Head $175K ++. Current exp. as head of div. of women’s designer label required. Admin Since 1967 Strong relationships w/ dept. stores. Women’s SAMPLE ROOM W-I-N-S-T-O-N outerwear exp preferred not necessary. Run en- EMPIRE TECHNOLOGY CENTER tire div. for large growing multi-div mdtwn co. COORDINATOR APPAREL STAFFING Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy FOR DESIGNER Fashion Design Conference DESIGN*SALES*MERCH SMALL PRODUCTION RUNS. Are you a Fashion Designer ? ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION FABRIC SOURCING MGR $110K SOURCE FABRIC TRIMS. ALL LEVELS OF FASHION DESIGN (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Mens/Women 10 Full Collection. SCHEDULES FITTINGS. Attend a conference at 6pm on the Vertical, Retail. Far East Exp. KNOWLEDGE OF PATTERNS, [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 SEWING. EXPERIENCED ONLY. increasing usage of CAD, PhotoShop APPAREL JOBS RESUME: [email protected] Intimate Apparel and Illustrator in Fashion Design. You 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)CAD Artists Manufacturer of sensuous intimate 3)Technical designer:kid-men-ladies-knit-wvn FASHION CAREERS Spec Tech/Import apparel since 1948 looking for an inde- 215 West 40th Street probably qualify for a reduced tuition. Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) Call 212-661-9122 for reservations. In Design, Tech Design & Production Min. 5 yrs exp. in fittings, garment con- pendent sales representative for the Sublet furnished showroom/office See listings @ www.apparelstaffing.com struction, grading & spec measure- following territories: Idaho, Oregon, space. Approximately 800 Sq. Ft. Refreshments served. Or Fax Resume To: (212) 302-1161 ments for kids thru plus sizes. Must Washington, N. Carolina, S. Carolina, Bathroom/Kitchen. Available immedi- have Computer exp. Must be able to W.Virginia, Virginia, and the New Eng- ately. Please call Joanne 212-391-8222 Assistant Designer land territory. Established customer Lay out, mark & cut patterns. Super- speak Chinese for detail oriented com- FASHION FORWARD munication w/ overseas makers. Salary base. Must be willing to travel and serv- vise sample makers. Req’d: 4 yrs. exp PLANNERS & ANALYSTS...... 50-80K ice existing customers and expand cus- & exp. supervising sample makers. Re- based upon experience. E-mail resume TEXTILE DSNR (home)...... 60-85K to [email protected] tomer base. Please fax resume to: sume to: Alvin Valley, 632 Broadway, FABRIC SOURCING ...... 40-50K (323) 261-8851 6th Fl., Suite 602, NY, NY 10012 BUYERS...... 80-100K Supply Chain Manager to $150K DESIGNERS (many areas)...... 40-200K PA loc. Import planning/ forecasting ASSISTANT MERCHANDISER Many other opportunities available. Allen*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 "ON THE MARKS" [email protected] RESUMES Call 212-986-7329 or Fax 212-986-7708 T.D. (2) $50K++ FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTS Computer literate, detail oriented, Women’s Stretch & Men’s Sportswear Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates experience with Photoshop a must. FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 GILBERT CAREER RESUMES Knowledge of CAD A plus. (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa Fax resume to: 212-941-0114 GRAPHIC DESIGNER TECHNICAL Designer-4+yrs exp w/a fashionresumes.com Accessories company seeks individual Young Men/Boy sportswr importer/exp For Sale: Complete fashioncareercenter.com with 1-2 yrs. min. exp. & the following: using PDM/ some tvl to China. $65-75k • Strong Illustrator 10 (MAC) & Call Les Richards at (212)221-0870 Lectra System Asst Bookkeeper Photoshop skills • 12 pattern grading / marking - RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 Growing textile co seeks person for • Organized & Responsible HP/Compac workstations Updating/Phone Interviews general office duties. Must be experi- • Excellent follow-up skills TECHNICAL DESIGNERS Production Patternmaker • 2 Lectra pattern-digitizing tables PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. enced with factor chargebacks, custom- • Illustration skills & speed a must * Bridge Pvt label...... $85-90K Exp in dresses, sportswear, blouses. • 3 plotters - 2 short bed - 1 long bed 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 er collections & accounts payable. • Accessory exp. a plus * Moderate Knit Tops...... $60K Looking for part time or work from Contact Kate Tuohy - FYC Apparel (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Must have knowledge of Excel & Word. Please fax resume to: (212) 967-4819 or * Bottoms/Tops...... $75-80K home. Fast and accurate. Please call Group LLC - 212-944-0255 www.resumesforfashion.com Fax Resume 646-349-3553 Email: [email protected] [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 631-273-3100 04.

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