Gillean Daffern’s KANANASKIS Country Trail Guide 4th Edition

VOLUME 2 West Bragg | The Elbow | The Jumpingpound CONTENTS

TRAILS

Changes in the 4th Edition — 6 North Hwy. 549 — 18 Acknowledgements — 6 Map of Kananaskis Country — 7 West Bragg Road — 26 Kananaskis Country — 8 What to expect — 9 Facilities — 11 Hwy. 66 — 39 Camping — 12 Info — 13 Powderface Trail — 186 Using the book — 14 Area map — 16 Hwy. 68 — 249 Maps — 270 Index of trails — 278 Contacts — 280 Introduction

to Hinton Kananaskis Country and Wa iparous Creek adjoining areas covered by the GHOST Kananaskis Country Trail Guides

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Kananaskis Lakes, Elk Lakes W to Nanton i Vol. 2 Jumpingpound, West Bragg, Elbow 940 llo The w Creek Vol. 3 Ghost, Bow Valley, Spray Hump Wilkinson Vol. 4 Sheep, McLean Creek Summit 940 Vol. 5 Flat Creek, Highwood, Cataract Willow Creek, Livingstone O ld to m HWY 3 an R ive to r Coleman 7 Introduction

RATING TRAILS USING THE BOOK No attempt has been made to classify trails. What’s difficult for one person is ARRANGEMENT OF TRAILS easy for another. It’s all relative. Also com- Trails are arranged by highway and are ing into play are the length of a trail, its colour coded. Refer to map on page 16. gradient, its remoteness from a trailhead, conditions underfoot and so on. Read TYPES OF TRAILS the introductory description carefully. If Official trails are maintained by you’re having a horrible time, it’s up to Kananaskis Country, Alberta Tourism, you to turn back and try something easier. Parks & Recreation, and Alberta Sustain- able Resources are a mix of new and old RATING TIMES trails, logging and exploration roads, fire Times are dependent on too many vari- roads and cutlines. Expect parking lots at ables — everybody chugs along at a dif- trailheads, biffies and the occasional pic- ferent rate. Some will be carrying heavy nic table. Junctions are marked with sig- packs; some people, like me, want to make nage of the “You are here” variety. Some frequent flower stops. And then there are trails have directional arrows or coloured the underfoot conditions to consider, the markers on trees or posts. Unless the trail weather and so on. is equestrian, expect bridges over creeks. • Half day, up to 3 hours. Unofficial trails are similar to the above, • Day, up to 6 hours. but sometimes have no obvious trailhead, • Long day, up to 10 hours plus. are neither signposted nor marked in (Take headlamps) any way except perhaps, for the occa- • Backpack, overnight camping. sional piece of flagging, cairn or trimmed branches. Creek crossings are the norm. For the first time, this category includes Some of the trips are designated “bike trails demoted from official status. ’n’ hike” and “bike ’n’ scramble.” Biking the first part of the trail can cut down the Routes either have no trails or have long time considerably. In this way I’ve often trail-less sections where you have to navi- squeezed a weekend trip into one day. gate from one intermittent game trail to an- other. Often there is some bushwhacking. DISTANCES Distances are given in kilometres. Dis- Scrambles can have official or unofficial tances shown between each segment of trails or be routes. They range from ridge trail are not cumulative; they show the walks to gruelling uphill flogs in excess distance of that segment only. of 1000 m to the top of a mountain. You can be sure of scree, and possibly a pitch TRAIL DESCRIPTIONS or two of easy scrambling. There may be Trail descriptions are arranged according mild exposure. Special equipment is un- to the character of the trail. Most trails lead necessary in optimum conditions when to a single destination. But sometimes the the mountain is devoid of snow and the destination is the springboard for further weather is good. options under headings like “going farther,” “side trip,” “optional descent route” etc. I HEIGHTS, HEIGHT GAINS sometimes describe the same mountain with are given in both metric and imperial. different ways up and down, or an area with a number of trails or peaks radiating out from

14 Introduction the same access. Occasionally loop trails BUYING MAPS can be extended into longer loops. Long- Maps in the back of this book are for distance trails, rarely hiked in their entirety, reference only. You need to carry a bona- are described by segment. fide topo map. The latest editions of Gem Trek maps come close to being the perfect DIRECTIONS maps for the area, with contour intervals Left and right refer to the direction of of 25 m. They show grid lines, up-to-date travel. Skier’s left/right refers to descent, road alignments, official trails, some unof- climber’s left/right to ascent. ficial trails, and major powerlines. Government topo maps, depending on GRID REFERENCES AND the edition, are in both imperial and met- GPS RECEIVERS ric, with contour lines at 100-ft. intervals Where I give grid references you can fol- and 40-m intervals respectively (not so low along on your topo map. good). Occasionally, features like small Maps have blue grid lines running lakes, streams, glaciers and even moun- east–west and north–south. Each line is tains are omitted, which leads to exciting numbered. The first two numbers indicate discoveries. Generally, road alignments the grid line forming the west boundary of are corrected on maps newer than 1983. the kilometre square in which your point Provincial Resource Base Maps is located, and the third number the esti- from Alberta Energy are updated fairly mated number of tenths of a kilometre your regularly and show what the other maps point is east of that line. The fourth and don’t: all cutlines, all powerlines and fifth numbers indicate the south boundary exploration and logging roads. Unfortu- of the square, and the last number is the nately, the reality is sometimes nothing estimated number of tenths of a kilometre like what is shown on the map. your point is north of that line. GPS receivers are useful when MAPS FOR VOLUME 2 bushwhacking or for finding your way Gem Trek back to a trail or a trailhead. • Bragg Creek and Sheep Valley: scale 1:50,000, contour interval 25 m. MAPS IN BOOK • Kananaskis Lakes: scale 1:50,000, Sketch maps in the text are not always to contour interval 25 m. scale and serve only to clarify complex ar- • Canmore and Kananaskis Village scale eas where you might go wrong. Maps at the 1:50,000, contour interval 25 m. back of the book are based on today’s topo maps, which come in a mix of imperial and metric. Therefore, the contour inter- Government Topo maps vals vary. There are also errors like miss- Scale 1:50,000 ing creeks, lakes, mountains and glaciers. • 82 J/15 Bragg Creek Because of this these maps are intended • 82 O/2 Jumpingpound Creek as a guide only. Still, trails and routes are • 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes marked as accurately as possible. • 82 J/10 Mount Rae • 82 J/14 Spray Lakes Reservoir • Red line: a trail, official or unofficial. • Red dash: a route. • Black line: trail in other volumes, or trail not used. • Dashed black line: route in other vol- umes of this series.

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78 77 Barrier Info 79-83 83 Centre 68

Barrier 85 Lake 84 70,71,73

74-76 69 72

2 1 65,66 3 West Bragg road

67 68 4-6, 8 Elbow Valley 6 Info 9 Centre 17 58,59 60-64 8, 10-13 6, 7

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42 40 The Area covered by Volume 2, showing 39 46 location of trailheads with trail numbers and areas covered by 38 maps at the back of 37 this book Elbow Lake

16 Hwy. 66

38 PIPER CREEK — map 5

Long-day hike, backpack dudes on horseback by outfitters, that Unofficial trail, creek crossings George called the valley after his wife Distance 4.9 km from Big Elbow trail to so that from his mountain top he could pass look down on his beloved Norma for all Height gain 610 m (2000 ft.) to pass eternity. High point 2576 m (8450 ft.) at pass Maps 82 J/10 Mount Rae, 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes

Access Via #37 Big Elbow trail at 419145.

A walk up a side valley of the Elbow River that can be done in one long day from Elbow Pass trailhead. The time can be cut down by camping at Elbow Lake or at Tombstone. Since the last edition a trail now runs all the way from Big Elbow trail to the mid-valley and offers fairly easy go- ing with just a few short, steep hills. Know you must ford the Elbow River and Piper Creek and that the forest section is longer than one would wish for, but all this merely whets the appetite for the glorious finale of alpine meadows. From the valley head, there is the option of climbing to Piper Pass and for experienced backpackers to cross over into the west fork of the Little Elbow. NAMING NOTE Slung between the icy cliffs of Elpoca Mountain and the sunbaked tombstone-like slabs of Tombstone Moun- tain, the valley is one of the most beautiful in the eastern slopes. For years its stream was called Elpoca Creek until that name was officially bestowed on another stream on the west side of Elpoca Mountain. The name “Piper” honours Norma Piper Poca- terra (the wife of George) a well-known singing teacher in Calgary and opera singer whose international career was cut short by World War II. It took 20 years for the name to gain acceptance. A resubmission by one of Norma’s accompanists, Dale Jackson, with the whole weight of the Kiwanis Mu- sic Festival committee behind him, finally did the trick in 2005. Long before the name became official, Elpoca Mountain looks down on the upper a legend grew up, told to unsuspecting meadows of Piper Creek Valley.

129 Elbow

Flower meadows below Tombstone Mountain.

130 Hwy. 66

To Piper Creek 1 km step, issues from a tarn tucked under the An undulating section which crosses the highest summit of Tombstone. Across the Elbow River valley. Be prepared for two valley to the left, hidden in a fold of mo- creek crossings. raine, lies another tarn. Fed by a perpetual At the cairn at about 419145, the trail snowbank, it lies deep in the shadow of leaves Big Elbow trail and straightaway Mount Schlee, named after Gerry Sch- descends very steeply to the Elbow River, lee, a well-known Calgary climber who which has to be waded. Climb the far bank. forfeited his own life trying to save two (A bench above the first uphill makes a fine paddlers caught in the Bow River weir. camping spot.) Cross an open ridge then dip into and out of a shallow draw. I love To Piper Pass 500 m the next stretch which follows an open Wherever you go, Piper Pass is a must-go ridge with views in all directions. Sud- for the view. denly the trail turns sharp right and heads Head up the right side of the right fork, across to Piper Creek. Cross at 414148. and cross it above a waterfall. Continue to the head of the valley, making for a very To the upper valley 3.4 km large white boulder at the demarcation A fairly easy forest climb to meadows. of meadow and scree. There are actually The trail turns left and continues along two low points in the watershed ridge the right bank of Piper Creek. Shortly, separated by a ruddy-coloured hump. veer right, up the hill. Cross a grassy side From the boulder a trail in easy-angled slope, then descend into the valley proper, scree heads for the lower, right-hand pass which is all forest at this point. at 392175 (cairn). Good time can be made on the trail which gains height slowly up the right (northeast) side of the valley between Elpoca and Tombstone mountains. Cross a stony creekbed, the steepest, longest hill occurring on the climb out of it. Then continue as before, crossing small pockets of meadows and many tiny side creeks with water. Just below treeline the creek falls in a series of cataracts down a small canyon. It’s here that kaleidoscopic flower meadows begin. The trail leads you out of the trees into the short turf of the upper valley. Note the waterfall up a left fork and a first view up ahead of ruddy-coloured Piper Pass between Cats Ears and Tomb- stone Mountain. A marker — branch and rock — indicates trail’s end, leaving you free to wander the meadows at will. This is the home of Alpines, including Lyall’s rock cress and my friend’s favour- ite golden fleabanes. Rivulets interlace across the surface of the grass, sometimes sinking into trenches a metre deep and a few centimetres wide. Up ahead, the The tarn under Tombstone Mountain, backdropped right-hand fork, tumbling over a rock by Elpoca Mountain. Photo Alf Skrastins

131 Elbow

From this high vantage point, there’s a by cliffs and vertiginous scree slopes; only glorious view back down the valley to the bright meadows of Paradise Pass can Mt. Rae. If Norma were here she would be seen in the distance. As you can see surely burst into song as she was wont the way down into the west fork is for ex- to do when arriving at a mountain pass. perienced scree bashers and route-­finders Perhaps her favourite aria from the mad only. See #47. scene in Act III of Lucia di Lammermoor: “Il dolce suono.” Top: Piper Pass from the white boulder. Conversely, the view north into the Bottom: Looking back down the valley west fork of the Little Elbow is obscured from the pass to Elpoca Mountain, Mt. Rae and the Rae Glacier. Photo Roy Millar

132 Powderface Trail

69 JUMPINGPOUND RIDGE TRAIL — maps 2 & 7

Day hike optional, but NOTE this short diversion Official trail with signposts, red is now an official viewpoint! markers & cairns It’s easy to see why this is Don Cocker- Distance 7.3 km to summit, 13.8 km ton’s favourite creation: it takes in some right through really fine country above treeline that is Height gain N–S 701 m (2300 ft.) often in condition right through to Decem- Height loss N–S 549 m (1800 ft.) ber 1 when the highway closes. It’s also High point 2240 m (7350 ft.) popular as an early spring hike when the Map 82 J/15 Bragg Creek highway opens on May 15, but be aware that snow piled up waist deep on the lee Access Via Powderface Trail (road). NOTE slope section of the north ridge means a This section of Powderface Trail is closed clamber over the boulderfield. Dec 1–May 15. Most people hike the northern portion North Lusk Pass trailhead (no biffy). to the summit and return the same way South Canyon Creek parking lot (no biffy). (14.6 km round trip). I recommend hiking Also accessible from the southern terminus the entire ridge and for this you’ll need of #70 Coxhill trail, the western terminus of two vehicles because walking back along #68 Jumpingpound Mountain east ridge, from the highway, as we did once, is mind- #67 Jumpingpound Summit trail, and #58 numbing. You can also combine it with and #54 Canyon Creek/Ford Creek trails in #70 Cox Hill (18.9 km one way). Canyon Creek. The grunting you will hear signifies not bears but mountain bikers. (Watch A not too strenuous ridge walk — the ridge for the Bow 80 race in September.) Also is broad — along the entire N–S axis of Jumpingpound Mountain. Taking in the The northern section of the ridge in late fall, with the summit of Jumpingpound summit of Jumpingpound Mountain is Mountain in the background.

226 Powderface Trail in September, the ridge is the scene of a is the view: the Moose Mountain summits three-day triathlon for horses. to the east and to the west a Fisher Range HISTORY NOTE This north end of the panorama where you can pick out a large ridge was first climbed by members of the number of scramble peaks. irrigation survey led by A.O. Wheeler. On Reach a Y-junction with signpost and these meadows on the 28 and 29 of May, map. The shortcut trail ahead passes 1897, the smoke was so thick from fires about 50 vertical m below the summit the survey crews “could do nothing” (a of Jumpingpound Mountain along the frequent occurrence), though they waited west flank. Barring a thunderstorm or a around until 2 pm on the second day. whiteout, it would be unnatural not to Finally, they gave up and returned in July want to bag such an easily attainable top, of the next year. so keep left. At the next T-junction turn left and walk up a few rocks to the summit, where the view to the south — ridge on ridge and range on range receding into the noonday sun — is suddenly disclosed.

To Jumpingpound Summit trail 800 m Return to the last junction and go straight, past a cairn. In 170 m you meet the short- cut and keep left. Not long after slipping into the trees you arrive at a T-junction. Keep left. (To right is Jumpingpound Summit trail.) Summer’s moss campion. Photo Gillian Ford To Canyon Creek 5 km NORTH TO SOUTH The southern section of the ridge is differ- To Coxhill Ridge junction 4.1 km ent in character. To avoid a section built From Lusk Pass trailhead, cross the like a porcupine’s back, the trail traverses highway onto the start of the trail. the west flank in the pines for a couple Straightaway after crossing the bridge of kilometres, then climbs back onto the over Jumpingpound Creek, you’re into ridge, now broad and grassy, bristling on long, sweeping zigs up a forested north- the west side with rocky outcrops. From west ridge. The trail straightens, flattens here you get a fabulous view of 12-km-long briefly, then resumes a steeper, tighter, Nihahi and Compression ridges. twisting climb to the southern terminus Back in trees the trail starts its descent of Coxhill Ridge trail at treeline. to Canyon Creek, winding about a small creek, then squeezing between “The To Jumpingpound Summit 3.2 km. Gates.” A few more zigs lead down to Turn right and stride along the northern meadows in the valley bottom. Beyond a section of the main ridge. If you’re here belt of trees you emerge on an old explo- in the late fall, as I often am, it appears a ration road also used by routes #54 and wind-blasted tundra harbouring tiny re- #58. This junction at 470423 is marked flecting tarns, a boulderfield — which the by a signpost. trail avoids by deking into the trees of the lee slope — and lots of cairns, nowadays To south access 700 m just ruins of their former glory. (A horti- Turn right, and on old exploration road culturist friend of mine assures me that cross a side creek and climb a hill. A the ridge greens up nicely in the summer.) final straight leads to the parking lot on Regardless of when you go, the treat here Powderface Trail the road.

227

Powderface Trail

#69 The tarn backdropped by the scramble peaks of the Fisher Range. Photo Angélique Mandel.

#69 The southerly section of the ridge, looking north.

#70 On the summit of Cox Hill, looking east to Moose Mountain.

228 Fisher Peak

Mount The Remus Tiara 66 MAP 6 Peak SEE EVAN-THOMAS Peak PASS VOLUME 1 412443 69 49A Mount Peak 5 Romulus 63A 427439 48 N 64A o r Peak North th 49 409435 F o Fork r 63 64C Tarn k 63B

Peak Canyon 436425 Creek 45 SEE 64B 49.2 VOLUME 1 north 54, Mount PARADISE 62 64B 58, 59 Evan-Thomas 49.1 62, PASS 60-64 Mount 63, fork Romulus 64 Mount West Fork Bryant 48 Lake Bryant Mount

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Mount Cornwall Mount Brock 55 50B 60A

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46 SEE VOLUME 1 51B 37

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T r a il Lake Rae SEE VOLUME 4 Mount Remus EVAN-THOMAS 37 PASS 45 49A Mount SEE Romulus VOLUME 1 Elbow 48 Lake N Elbow o 49 r Pass th F 274 o rk North Fork Tarn 48 Grizzly trail 20 INDEX Horizon trail 20 Hot Laps 60 Banded Peak, normal route 133 Hunchback Hills 246 descent to Cornwall Creek 135 the horseshoe 247 Beaver Flat to Cobble Flats 90–93 Iron Springs trail 31 via Elbow River 91 Îyarhe Îpan 114 via Rainy Creek 93 Jumpingpound connector 268 Beaver Lodge interpretive trail 89 Jumpingpound loop 268 Belmore Browne Peak 214 Jumpingpound Mountain, east ridge 224 descent route 219 Jumpingpound Ridge trail 226 Big Elbow trail 122–128 Jumpingpound Summit trail 222 viewpoint side trip 123 Lake Prairie Basin 186 Bobcat trail 37 Little Elbow trail 152–155 Brakeless 60 Little Elbow, north fork 164 Bryant Lake 204 Little Elbow, west fork 158 Canyon Creek ice cave 67 Lusk Pass 242 Canyon Creek 190 Mclean Hill 18–22 Compression Ridge 176 Moose Creek 236 Connops trail 22 Moose Creek interpretive trail 266 Cornwall Creek falls 124 Moose Dome Creek 70 Cornwall Creek 141 Moose Mountain, normal route 62 Cornwall/Outlaw col 169 from west peak 195 Corri Robb trail to Vents Ridge 85 Moose Mountain, north ridge 237 Cow Col 100 Moose Mountain Summits from Cox Hill 229 Canyon Creek 193 return via sunken valleys 232 centre peak 195 Dawson to Deer Ridge 241 south peak 196 Dawson trailhead, loops from 235 southeast peak 196 Deer Ridge 258 west peak 193 Diamond T loop 49 Moose Mountain DHS trails 58–61 Eagle Hill connector 254 Moosepackers 45 Eagle Hill from Sibbald Lake 255 Mount Cornwall, normal route 143 Eagle Hill via Seventy Buck Valley 249 Mount Cornwall from Talus Creek 170 Elbow Overlook 137 Mount Howard 202 Elbow to Threepoint Creek 136 Mustang Hills, The 94 Elbow trail 29 Nihahi Creek 171 Elbow Valley connector 52 Nihahi Creek, north fork 175 Elbow Valley trail 50 Nihahi Creek, west fork 172 Fisher Ridge 32 Nihahi Ridge interpretive trail 178 Ford Creek trail 183–185 Nihahi Ridge, south summit 179 Ford Knoll loop 181 North Bragg loop 26 Forgetmenot Mountain 121 North Fork Tarn 166 Forgetmenot Ridge 119 North Powderface Ridge 188 Fullerton loop 39 Ole Buck loop 260 Glasgow Creek 145 Ole Buck Mountain 262–265 Glasgow Creek loop 145 from south 262 cutline shortcut 147

278 from west 263 Ranger/Ridgeback connector 36 via second valley 265 Ridge trail 19 Outlaw from Outlaw Creek 135 Ridge 417331 174 Outlaw from Talus Creek 170 Ridge 548457 66 Paddy’s Flat interpretive trail 57 Ridgeback 46 Paradise Pass 162 Riverview trail 55 Party Zone, The 22 Second Gap trail 83 Peak 403471 217 Seventy Buck viewpoint 251 Peak 406463 219 descent via Ridge 448587 252 Peak 409435 207, 209 Sibbald Flat interpretive trail 254 Peak 412443, normal route 207, 208 South Lusk Meadows Peak 412443 from Jumpingpound 220 from the Jumpingpound 244 Peak 427439 211 Special K 61 from eastern cutblocks 212 Stallion Run 20 Peak 436425 211, 212 Sugar Momma 36 from eastern cutblocks 212 Sulphur Springs trail 53 Peak 461258 148 Swany’s Ridge from Mclean Creek 23–25 Peak 466270 150 Swany’s Ridge from Quirk Ridge 112 Pine Grove day-use side trip 269 Talus Lakes 167 Pine Woods interpretive trail 266 Three Trail Pass, normal route 187 Piper Creek 129 via Trail Creek Connector 189 Pneuma 60 Threepoint Mountain trail 138 Powderface Creek 79 Tom Snow trail south 40-43 pack trail start 81 Tom Snow trail north 233–236 Powderface Ridge from the east 101 Tombstone Lakes 157 east ridge 102 Tombstone Lakes trail 157 Powderface Ridge, normal route 105 Trail Creek connector, east leg 189 outlier 107 Trail Creek connector, west leg 189 south end of ridge 107 Upper Canyon Creek 198–201 Prairie Creek 76 west fork 199 Prairie Link trail 82 south fork 200 Prairie Mountain, normal route 72 to Secret Pass 201 south ridge 74 from Nihahi Creek 176 west ridge 75 Upper Glasgow Creek 147 Quirk Creek 108 Upper Pneuma loop 65 to Wildhorse trail 110 Vents Ridge, normal route 85 Quirk Ridge 111 east ridge 87 Rainy Creek trails 97–100 descent to Prairie Creek 86 forks connector 99 Wildhorse trail 115 Hill 539348 99 Rainy Summit connector 100 southwest fork 99 west fork 97 Rainy Summit Ridge 103 Ranger Hill trails 33–37 Ranger Ridge 37 Ranger Summit loop 34

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