Isaiah Davenport House Volunteer Newsletter December 2013 www.davenporthousemuseum.org 912/236-8097 Become a Facebook fan at “Davenport House Museum”

To the Inhabitants of Savannah and its Tuesday, December 3 at 10 a.m. - SHOP NEW: vicinity. – DH DOCENT HOLIDAY - Visit the DH Museum Shop to A gentleman, who has lately arrived REFRESHER/End of Year find holiday gifts. You must here from Europe, undertakes to cure Celebrations and Discussion of know we have terrific stocking all DISEASES incident to the noble 2013 Special Focus – CAKES stuffers, books and signature animal, the HORSE – corns, thrushes, AND COOKIES Savannah items. and contracted feet, completely and - 1 p.m. – 2013 Oyster Roast As a gift to you from December 1 expeditiously cured; splints sprains, Meeting through 15, DH Friends, Volun- lameness, and king hooves effectually - 6 to 8 p.m. – SAA JIs teers and Staff receive a 25% removed. He also undertakes to cure Wednesday, December 4 from 10 discount on shop purchases. the diseases of the eye, if called upon a.m. to 1 or 2 p.m. – KP win- - Gift Cards: Remember we have when they are first affected. He begs dow display creation (10 a.m.) gift cards! leave to remark, these diseases, gener- followed by wreath ornamenta- - New book: See the ally, may (if taken Care of at an early tion beautifully illus- stage) be cured IN a very short period, Thursday, December 5 from 4 to 6 trated new book and at a trifling expense. Horse Medi- p.m. – Special Tour with Hospi- Magnolias, Porch- cine, of every description, carefully tality es and Sweet Tea: prepared, and to be had on the shortest Saturday, December 7 from 5 to 7 Recipes, Stories & notice. Horses carefully bled. Young p.m. – DH Holiday Party! Art from the Low ladies and gentlemen taught to ride Sunday, December 8 from 4 to 7 Country by Pat Branning. Retail: and manage a horse dexterity in a few p.m. – Garden Rental $39.95 lessons. He will also break horses for Monday, December 9 through - Traveling to Charleston: Taking riding, and train them to draft in the Wednesday, December 11 – the DH to the next level, a group most perfect manner—as his object is Archeology Project begins/ including Ben Head, Adrienne to engage a preference and by his ex- Ground Penetrating Radar Williams, Liz Demos, Hugh ertions to please and reasonable terms - 5:30 p.m. – Preparation meet- Golson, Brooke Wilford and ensure the patronage of the public. ing for Holiday Evening Tours Jamie Credle will travel to Any commands, addressed to JOHN Tuesday, December 10 at 1 p.m. – Charleston to visit shops includ- LANGSTAFF, at Mrs. Davenport House Committee ing retail museum shops for Palmer’s boarding house, meeting models and inspiration, as they Jefferson street, corner of - 6 p.m. – JI Christmas craft the best way to present a President street, shall be Wednesday, December 11 at 5 new Museum s\Shop in the carefully attended to. p.m. – Dancing rehearsal Kennedy Pharmacy. Savannah Republican. December 7, 1819. Sunday, December 15 from 10 un- til noon - Road Scholars/DH YOUR PARTY, MY PARTY, OUR This being Christmas Day, no paper Holiday Experience PARTY: It’s time for mutual congrat- will be issued from this office tomorrow, Wednesday, December 18 at 5 ulations and joy! Please join your in order to allow the usual recreation to p.m. – Dancing rehearsal friends for the annual Davenport our workmen. Friday, December 20 from 8 a.m. House Holiday Party on Saturday, Savannah Daily Gazette. December 25, 1820. until 6 p.m. – Trip to Charles- December 7 from 5 to 7. If you ______ton/Gift Shop Study Group come and bring an DAVENPORT HOUSE CALENDAR Tuesday, December 24 at 1 p.m. – appetizer or dessert DECEMBER 2013 DH Closes for Christmas or a bottle of wine From December 1 through De- Wednesday, December 25 - DH the table will be cember 24 – Holly Jolly Trolley closes bountiful. Let’s Tours in the early evening (see Thursday, December 26 through enjoy each other’s the schedule in a separate attach- Monday, December 30 from 6 company and be thankful the DH ment) until 8:30 p.m. – Holiday Even- brings us together. Monday, December 2 at 2 p.m. - – ing Tours by Candlelight DH DOCENT HOLIDAY Tuesday, December 31 at 1 p.m. – HOLIDAY EVENING TOURS BY REFRESHER/End of Year DH closes CANDLELIGHT: Throughout early Celebrations and Discussion of Wednesday, January 1 – DH December we will plan the presenta- 2013 Special Focus – CAKES Closed tion of Holiday Evening Tours at AND COOKIES the end of the month. Our open house-style family Staff had done new work on this ing December and details will be pro- event has grown over year’s special focus CAKES AND vided in the Janu- the years and has COOKIES which you can read more ary DH Newslet- become a popular about in this newsletter. Jamie ter. Mark your offering for visitors Credle will review and amplify the calendar for to Savannah the new material with docents as well as Wednesday, Jan- week between Christ- providing a refresher on December uary 15 for a mas and New Year’s, interpretation. Please plan to attend workshop and 12/26 to 12/30. either on Monday, December 2nd at 2 discussion about Last year the DH p.m. or Tuesday, December 3rd at 10 the “dig” which will take place January saw around 100 a.m. Please know our visitors expect a 16 through 24. At the workshop, Rita guests each night of different sort of interpretation during Elliot of Lamar Institute will review the five day program. the month. Please prepare for your the finding of the GPR! You are invit- As always it takes an holiday tours. ed. Also, note there will be a Commu- army to put on a successful DH pro- nity Day on Saturday, January 18 for gram. We need docents, one per FOR DOCENTS: you to actually participate in the dig. room, in period costume or festive - Please remember if a guest asks you Exciting! dress for the four first floor rooms a question you cannot answer, please and two for the bedroom level. We find a staff person to assist or have MORE THAN DREAMING – COM- need singers and musicians to perform them write the question on one of the MITTEE FOR THE EVOLUTION OF a traditional holiday tune – Auld cards in the hall and give it to a staff THE DH/KP: Lang SYNE and another such as person to respond. The DH has put together a Bring a Torch to Jeanette Isabella - Boy’s Room Pillows: Mary Mis- knowledgeable and experienced group or Silent Night – for visitors to join tak made new pillows with zippers for of community members to discuss, in on. The Back Porch Band with the pine straw and Spanish moss illus- prioritize and plan the future of the Shari Laist will provide music in the trating what used to fill people’s mat- Museum property. Chaired by Hugh Kennedy Pharmacy before and after tresses. This is to keep the pine straw Golson, the Committee for the Evo- guests enjoy the house museum expe- and moss from getting all over the lution of the DH/KP met for the rience. At the end of the evening, pa- floor. You are welcome to unzipper first time on November 8 to begin trons will view an exhibition of early the pillows if you wish, as long as you thinking in a deliberate way for the 19th dance from the Davenport zipper them back up. Museum’s future. What will happened House Dancers. Those wishing to to the property over the next four to participate in the program should let JUNIOR INTERPRETERS: It is always seven years will be planned and coor- Jamie or Dottie know. There will be a a thrill to welcome young people into dinated in a careful way so as not to planning session on Monday, Decem- our world of community service. The disrupt operations at the expense of ber 9th at 5:30 p.m. if you are curious 2013 Savannah Arts Academy JIs current earned income – daily tours, and/or would like to participate. Help completed nine weeks of training and rentals and programs – with the goal us share the DH with those looking presented tours to the public on No- of transforming the property through for a family event! vember 29 and 30. a completely restored museum house and an exciting, attractive and income END OF YEAR INTERPRETATION: ARCHEOLOGY AT THE DH: producing shop in the Kennedy Phar- The house will be put into New Beginning December 9, the DH’s macy. Spaces, people, the museum’s Year’s mode for the month of Decem- Archeology Project will begin! The story and mission and . . . money all ber. Interpretive material is available Lamar Institute will start by scanning have to be well thought out. We are for review. Please ask Dottie for your the property with Ground Penetrat- delighted to have such good people copy of the basic information. If you ing Radar December 9 through 11. along for the ride. And we are happy prefer, the materials can be emailed to A technician will survey the ground that you – our volunteers and commu- you. There is also a notebook in the floor as well as the exterior of the nity members – will be there as well. kitchen containing all the interpretive property. The information will yield It’s all about making it work for good materials put together over the years not only evidence about the past but history, more inclusive storytelling and on topics such as punch, dancing, mu- also information about where power, resource survival. sic, syllabub and jellies, home fires, water lines and air condition lines, etc. Sub-teams of the committee will festive apparel and the Scottish tradi- exist – all of which are useful in meet throughout the upcoming year in tions familiar in the early 19th century. maintenance of the property. Be addition to the entire committee. You are welcome to aware this work will be going on if you Hopefully by the fall, a timeframe, copies of these to are scheduled to work for these days. benchmarks and goals will be set. further enliven your Please incorporate the quest authentic- Thank you to David Bloomquist, tour during the ity in your tour. Information about Christy Crisp, Liz Demos, Stewart month. the actual dig will be forthcoming dur- Dohrman, Joyce Ellis, Vaughnette Goode-Walker, Hugh Golson, Tom Please know we had an accident with DH: What is your favorite thing Hoffman, Andrew B. Jones, Kathe- the return address envelopes enclosed about the DH? rine Keena, Diane Kulp, Rick Mul- in a number of letters. A sheet of 30 or Stacy: The awesome group of people ler, Laura Lane McKinnon, Mills so of mailing labels had an error cutting I’ve met there. It’s really like a family. Morrison, Roger Smith, Brooke Wil- off the city, state and zip code. Staff Very genuine, warm, caring people. I ford, Jamie Credle, Daniel Carey, was mortified to find this out and an am so grateful for the friendships I’ve Jeff Freeman, Ben Head, James email was sent to all volunteers and found here. Kidd and Terri O’Neil Friends about this – at least to every- DH: Most unusual event at the one we have an email address for. DH? WORTH MENTIONING: - Road Scholars: The DH finished a Stacy: I would say the most unusual - Harvest Lecture: Thank you all successful spring series with AASU event for me is the opportunity to who attended and/or helped with the Road Scholars program. Thank you to spend a week or so at a time of inten- November 18th Harvest Lecture. A Anne Hagan, Raleigh Marcell, Jeff sive dance training from an amazing crowd of 150 people came to hear the Freeman, Linda Garner, Chassidy professional ballet dancer, Elizabeth talk Runaway Slaves in Savannah Malloy and Marty Barnes for their Albe. It’s rigorous, challenging, physi- and the South presented by Dr. Lor- good work with the program. In De- cally demanding, and wonderful! So en Schweninger. The sanctuary of the cember, Road Scholars will visit the much fun. Can’t wait for her next visit. historic Second African Baptist DH for a Holiday Program on Sunday, DH: How long have you been in Church was the setting and Pastor December 15. DH Dancers will per- Savannah MeGill Brown was the host who wel- form. The AASU coordinators have Stacy: I’ve been in Savannah 6 years comed those assembled and introduced given the DH 11 dates they will visit in now. Prior to that, I lived my entire the speaker. Please know that the Ke- the spring with groups arriving with life in Pennsylvania. It’s a beautiful hoe Inn provided lodging for the regularity on Wednesdays at 4 p.m. be- state; I do miss being surrounded by Schweningers. Volunteers Liz and tween late February and mid-May. The mountains. But Pennsylvania winters Ally Schreiber and well as Roslyn focus for that series will be “Alcohol were too cold and too long for me. A Kirkland of Second African Baptist Consumption in the Early 19th Cen- blanket of snow on the landscape is Church and DH staff helped with the tury.” magical to see; I travel north every win- program and reception. ter to visit, but then I like to return to - Volunteer Trip: Twenty-five DH VOLUNTEER SPOT- Savannah and warm up. It makes me people participated in the field trip on LIGHT — Stacy Hess smile every time I put on flip flops in November 15. Stuff we learned: It’s November, or sit outside sunning my- fun people who make a trip; we could DH: How did you come self in December. I love all the water have spent 3 hours at Wormsloe, an to be associated with the and the live oaks here. You won’t see enthusiastic and knowledgeable docent Davenport House? too many dolphins in PA. makes it work all the more a la Bethes- Stacy: n the summer of 2012, Jeff told DH: My plans for the future? da Academy, Skidaway Island State me that a professional dancer from Stacy: I’m not really much of a plan- Park has a lot to offer for those look- California was coming to teach Regen- ner, but these are my resolutions, is ing for a natural history experience and cy Dance at the Davenport House in that close? Cornelia Groves is as gracious a host- hopes that they could add dancing to To be a better friend and tend well to ess as she ever was. We are making their performances. My eyes lit up, and my friendships. To expand my mas- preliminary plans for the February field I asked if I could join them. Now our sage business and find more avenues to trip to Fort Jackson, Fort Pulaski and practices are a favorite part of my use my skills and creative talents to the Tybee Light House (hopefully week. I really enjoy dressing in cos- make a positive impact with lunch at some fun place like say tume and performing our dances for an DH; What is your favorite thing to North Beach Grill!). audience; it’s a chance to give people a do in Savannah? - Party Prep: There was a hold up window in to the past, and entertain Stacy: One of my favorite things to do with getting out the DH Xmas Party them. in Savannah is to walk the historic dis- invitations but no shortage of envelope DH: What do you do outside of the trict on a beautiful day. Seven years addressers. Thank you to Nicole DH? ago, before I moved here, I rented an Ausset, Sally Clark, Pamela Eaton, Stacy: I’ve been a massage therapist apartment on Jones Street for a month. Dottie Kraft, Karen Matteo, Kathe- for over 15 years now. In my work, I I went out every day walking, and fell rine Owens, Cynthia Sorel and Joyce blend traditional massage styles with in love with Savannah. The Zehl. the energy balancing work of Polarity, canopy of live oak trees, the - Annual Giving: Letters for the An- Reiki and aromatherapy. I really appre- beautiful historic homes; nual Giving Campaign when out on ciate the opportunity to make a positive where else can you be sur- November 7. Thank you to DH lead- difference for others. Hobbies include rounded by such amazing ership – Cornelia Groves, Archie Da- singing, dancing, yoga, roller blading, architecture and be hugged vis, Brooke Wilford and Jamie walking, kayaking, and horseback rid- by nature at the same time. Credle - for signing this year’s letter. ing. Cakes and Cookies: Special Focus Interpretation

DON’T YOU LOVE TO THINK cookies on the side board in the lowered to suit the heat. Universal ABOUT CAKE?! Cake for most is us Drawing Room. utensils of iron, brass, copper, or is soft, fluffy layers covered with tin included chafing dishes, drip- butter cream frosting. This concep- FRUIT CAKE/Twelfth Cake: John- ping pans, frying pans, kettles, tion of cake is the evolution of cen- ny Carson had a bit about there turies and is a true example of tech- sauce pans, patty pans, skillets, being only one fruitcake in the skimmers, stew pan and toaster. nology. Most of us don’t think of world that got passed from relative cake and technology in the same Wealthy families owned a good to relative without ever being eaten. sentence - at least those of us who many nonessential amenities, such One cake historian writes that the did not have the forethought to as cake pans, ice-cream molds, fish traditional holiday fruit cake is the take what used to be called Home kettles, and wafer irons, and a great- opposite of what cake is supposed Economics in high school. So er proportion of all their kitchen let’s think deeply about something to be. “Today the `British style’ wares were crafted of copper. most of us love! fruitcake has become notorious, Whether iron or copper, all these “Cake and Cookies” is the special with comedians offering riffs on the pots and pans were heavy and cum- everlasting cake. If the symbolic focus of the DH Holiday Interpre- bersome, and the requisite stoop- tation this year. And you may ask, forever import of Twelfth Cake is ing, bending, lifting, and carrying “Why Cake?” Well, cakes are celebrato- in the act of division and sharing, were not only muscle-building but ry. Most people like cake or a least the the symbolic significance of its de- hazardous. Dismal indeed was the idea of cake even if their diet does not scendant is in its indivisibility, with life of a cook in early America. Not allow their consumption. Cakes are part endless accounts of impenetrable only was she subjected to the dan- of celebrations throughout time. And, rock-like royal icing. In the Ameri- ger of the flames, `the deleterious examining the history of cake and can context the problem with fruit vapours and perilential exhalations cookies gives us a reason to think cake is that it is the opposite of of the charcoal,’ the glare of the about baking in the home and what what now registers as `cake’ in the scorching fire, `and the smoke so that was like when the Davenports popular imagination. If baneful to the eyes and complex- lived here. You must certainly `cake’ is soft, tall, light, ion.’ But she must live in the midst know that the DH intends to re- fluffy and ephemeral of these dangers.” (Garrett) store the original DH kitchen. So then a cake that is solid, for the next while, the DH will be dense and seemingly “all about” kitchens, food and do- everlasting poses a conceptual mestic arts. We believe there is a problem.” (Humble) bake oven in the wall behind Ja- mie’s office and that it may look ANTEBELLUM KITCHEN “Every early American house had a like the one in the Fredrick Selleck House on West York Street. When kitchen, but its emplacement, use, (not if) we find it, this will prove size and charter could differ dra- matically according to location and without doubt that baking – baking EVOLUTION OF CAKE cakes – took place at #13 Columbia economic and social distinction: IN A NUTSHELL - “According to Ward (the DH). North or South, urban or rural, villa or farmhouse, with servants or the food historians, the precursors And, at the holi- without.” (Garrett) of modern cakes (round ones with days cakes and icing) were first baked in Europe cookies are all “Typically, the fireplace was outfit- sometime in the mid-17th century. This is due primarily to advances in around us. The ted with a crane, from which hung a technology (more reliable ovens, museum has a kettle, a pot, and perhaps an addi- tional large water kettle with a spig- manufacture/availability of food traditional fruit molds) and ingredient availability ot so that hot water might always cake exhibited (refined sugar). At that time, cake in the Dining be at hand for cooking and clean- hoops--round molds for shaping Room and ing. All of these could be raised or cakes that were placed on flat bak- ing trays--were popular. They could eighteenth century that it began to be raising agents. The first was `pearl be made of metal, wood or paper. clear to cooks that a cake with suffi- ash’ – potassium carbonate prepared Some were adjustable. Cake pans cient eggs did not also require ale from wood ash—which was used in were sometimes used. The first icing barm to raise it. The two forms of America from 1790. The mildly alka- was usually a boiled composition of cake exist side-by-side in cookery line substance formed bubbles which the finest available sugar, egg whites books throughout the eighteenth and and [sometimes] flavorings. This icing nineteenth century, with a solitary mixed with a mild acid such as sour was poured on the cake. The cake yeast-raised cake to be found as late milk; the reaction is instant, unlike was then returned to the oven for a as 1861 in Isabella Beeton’s Books of that of yeast, allowing for the produc- while. When removed, the icing Household Management. Yeast tion of a quick `bread’ and cooled quickly to form a hard, glossy tends, increasingly, to be reserved as a cakes.” (Humble) [ice-like] covering. Many cakes made raising method for the plainer cheap- at this time still contained dried fruits er cakes. . . .” (Humble) PEARL ASH/TECHNOLOGY – “A (raisins, currants, citrons). (web) first step toward modernization ap- LEAVENING – EGGS – 1ST RECIPE peared in print in 1796 when a chemi- BREAD OR CAKE/EVOLUTION OF FOR SPONGE CAKE - “Beaten egg cal leavening agent called pearl ash CAKE - “So from what does the whites, or eggs beaten whole, were was listed as an ingredient in Amelia modern cake evolve? Its most obvi- soon found to be sufficient to raise Simmon’s book, American Cookery. ous ancestor is bread, and for much the smaller forms of baked goods. Pearl ash was the popular name given of their histories bread and cake were The earliest recipe published in Eng- to potassium carbonate, an alkaline virtually indistinguishable.” (Humble) lish for what is essentially modern obtained through the leaching of sponge cake is given by Gervase “Cake does not become firmly sepa- wood ash. Combined with sour milk Markham in The English Huswife of rated from bread for a very long or vinegar, it was a quick method for 1615.” (Humble) time.” (Humble) making dough or cake rise.” (Crump) LEAVENING – EGGS/MUSCULAR TECHNOLOGY PEARL ASH – SOAPY - “The prob- COOK/NOT YEAST - “It took a lot of lem with pearl ash was that it reacted YEAST, EGGS—“Leavening agents in eggs to replace the raising power of with fats to produce a pronounced Colonial times were liquid yeast or yeast. The commonest form of new soapy flavor. It was later replaced by eggs, which were beaten at length to cake was a pound cake, so called be- bicarbonate of soda, which, although produce the aerating necessary for cause the recipe required a pound it reacted similarly, did so much less cakes to rise. Although this required each of butter, sugar and flour, and strongly.” (Humble) time and perseverance, roughly the equivalent weight in eggs the result was a cake free (usually eight). The ratio provided PEARL ASH THEN SALERATUS - from that artificial taste sufficient raising power to leaven “Around 1790, pearl ash . . . was dis- endured by modern pal- even cakes rich in fruit. All such reci- covered to have leavening qualities. ates accustomed to baking powders pes required a lengthy beating of eggs, This was followed by saleratus, a that were foisted upon us in the name with some beating yolks and whites form of baking soda developed and of progress.” (Crump) separately and some together. These used in the early nineteenth century. cakes were an arduous undertaking— An acid such as buttermilk was added LEAVENING AGENT – REMOVAL to activate saleratus; by the mid- OF YEAST – DIFFERENCE BE- directions not uncommonly suggest at TWEEN BREAD AND CAKE - “The least an hour’s beating to cream to- nineteenth century, the acid being most significant change was the one gether the butter and sugar, and then used was cream of tartar. In 1836, that separated the British cake deci- allow the same time again for the baking powder was introduced, a sively from bread – the removal of whisking of the eggs. The caricature combination of the two.” (Crump) yeast as a raising agent. This change image of the enormously muscled happened so gradually that it is hard OVENS/IRON DUTCH OVEN/ cook has its basis in physi- to pinpoint the exact moment of tran- BREAD BAKING/TEMP - “The ac- sition . . . It would be tempting, then, cal reality.” (Humble) tual baking was done in iron Dutch to date the emergence of the egg- PEARL ASH - “The final ovens or brick ovens usually built into raised cake to 1727, but cookbooks stage in the evolution of the huge kitchen fireplace. A thor- are . . . a very inexact guide to culinary the modern cake was the ough knowledge of the process was practices. The most we can conclude vital. A fire was started in the brick is that it was in the early years of the development of chemical ovens about two or like a looking glass’ What the cook MISTRESSES hours prior to had to avoid was scorching the icing, RECIPES - “Recipes written in the putting in the presumably a common fault . . . The past were far different from those we loaves. The in- quantity of sugar involved in icing a record today. Ingredients were gener- structions in cake increased throughout the seven- ally given in avoirdupois weight . . . , cookbooks for baking bread were spe- teenth or eighteenth centuries, and the and a set of scales was an essential part cific in every detail, from the size and sugar began to be beaten together with of old kitchens. It was not until the type of wood needed to the proper the other ingredients before being ap- end of the 19th century that U.S. cup oven temperature necessary to bake. plied to the measurements were standardized by ‘If you can hold your hand within the cake.” (Humble) Fannie Farmer. Working with older mouth of the oven as long as you can FEATHER APPLI- receipts thus requires a sense of ad- distinctly count twenty,” wrote Miss CATION OF ICING venture, as well as a firm understand- Leslie, “the heat is about - “Hannah Glasse advises that the ing of culinary methods.” (Crump) right.’” (Crump) icing should be spread over the cake SPICES - “The old receipts revealed SUGAR - “There was no cut nor gran- with `a Brush or Bundle of Feathers’. astonishing sophistication abut sea- ulated or pulverized sugar, to be (Humble) [This documents what we soning with herbs and spic- turned from the grocer’s bag on the say in the Dining Room.] es.” (Crump) scales,” explained Eliza Chinn Ripley, LABOR OF SUGAR - “Sugar was al- ROSE WATER - “Rose water, a fra- who was born in 1832 and spent her ready `double-refined’ in English re- childhood in New Orleans. “All sugar grant preparation made by steeping or fineries by the early seventeenth centu- distilling rose petals in water, is used in except the crude brown, direct from ry, but it still represented a major ex- plantations, was in cone-shaped loaves cosmetics and in cookery. It was a penditure of effort to cut sections favorite condiment during the Tudor as hard as a stone and weighing several from the rock-hard cone and reduce it pounds each. These well-wrapped and Stuart periods and was still in used to a fine powder in a mor- into the nineteenth century, which it loaves were kept hung (like hams in a tar.” (Humble) smokehouse) from the closet ceiling. was gradually replaced by vanilla. Or- They had to be cut into slips by aid of MARZIPAN/ICING - “The marzipan ange-flower was sometimes used as a carving knife and hammer, then was revived as a layer between cake substitute for rose water.” (Crump) and icing in the late eighteenth centu- pounded and rolled until reduced to WORK/HOUSEWIFERY - “A thor- powder.” Eliza Leslie thought a pair ry. As well as tasting good, it en- ough knowledge of housewifery in all of sugar nippers from “breaking small hanced keeping qualities by separating its branches was expected of upper- the loafsugar, after it had the moist cake from the dry icing. It class women, and part of that meant a been cracked with a stout also meant that the icing itself no familiarity with cooking techniques. knife and a mallet or ham- longer needed to go into the oven as it Both cook and mistress knew what mer,” indispensable in the could be made to melt to a glassy wood and what type of fire was need- correctly furnished kitchen. sheet through contact with the hot ed for a certain dish, for instance. The The nipped, shipped, and marzipan.” (Humble) labor-intensive aspects – grinding, pounded sugar was stored SUGAR/ICING – CONFECTIONER’S - chopping, kneading, pounding—were in a closely covered tin or wooden “Sugar production was mechanized at handled by African American slaves. box.” (Garrett) about the same time, which allowed Working in a hot, smoky kitchen with ICING for the production of very finely pow- open windows—one nineteenth- cen- dered sugar, also known as confection- tury cookbook instructs, `in summer THE ICING OF THE CAKE - “The er’s or icing sugar. Since the sugar was try to churn early in the morning, as earliest form of icing involved painting so fine, it was no longer necessary to fewer flies swarm then.’ (Crump) a cake hot from the oven with egg melt it to achieve a smooth, glassy THE COOK - “African American whites beaten with rosewater, sprin- icing. Modern royal icing, the slaves, usually women, partnered their kling it with sugar and returning it to a `traditional’ covering for wedding or mistresses in the kitchen. With few low oven to dry. The ideal, according Christmas cakes, used the same ingre- exceptions, they carried out the actual to Sir Kenelm Digby, writing in 1669, dients as the earliest icing and dries to meal preparations . . . . They possessed should look `pure, white and smooth a rock-hard finish.” (Humble) like silver between polished and matte far more knowledge than we with our RECIPES, COOKS AND shiny, state-of-the- BLACK/WHITE INTERACTION – your 1234 cake. i.e. 1 cup butter, art kitchens may KITCHEN “Of the many places 2 cups sugar, 3 cups flour, 4 eggs realize. Cooking at where white and black plantation resi- (Web) open fires in huge dents interacted, the kitchen was - COOKIE: In America, a cookie is among the most critical. In this fireplaces and di- described as a thin, sweet, usually space, the relationship between the rected by their plan- small cake. By definition, a cookie can mistress and her enslaved cook could tation mistresses, be any of a variety of hand-held, flour these black women turned out mouth be simultaneously cooperative and contested.” (Carlyle) -based sweet cakes, either crisp or -watering fare that would rival any we soft. According to culinary historians, PREPARATION - COOKS RE- know today, in conditions we are hard the first historic record of cookies SPONSIBILITIES “After receiving the -put to imagine. The cook’s job was a was their use as test cakes. A small back-breaking effort. Up before ingredients, the cook began preparing dinner, the main meal of the day. amount of cake batter was baked to dawn to establish the fire which had Some cooks had one or more assis- test the oven temperature. (Web) been banked the previous night, she tants—either cooks in training or faced hours of preparations before people too young or old for other - CUP CAKE: Popular traditional the midafternoon dinner could be work—to help prepare vegetables, baked goods are particularly enjoyed when portability and ease of service is served.” (Crump) pluck chickens, or turn the spit, but the cook herself was responsible for appreciated. Cookies, tea cakes, petits WORK TO MAKE A CAKE/WORK OF orchestrating the meal and sending fours and cupcakes all spring from THE COOK - “To make a cake, for dishes to the dining room. Cooks the basic same idea. instance, the cook was required to often prepare a second meal for themselves, their families, and other - Gill is a unit of measurement for pulverize sugar (it came in loaves or slaves, which they ate when they volume equal to a quarter of a pint. It cones), grind spices, on occasion pick could.” (Carlyle) is no longer in common use, except in out bugs from the flour, beat egg FEMININE SPACE THE KITCHEN/ regard to the volume of alcoholic yolks with rods (the modern egg beat- CONTROL - “Some cooks were men, spirits measures. (Web) er was a late-nineteenth-century in- but the kitchen was predominately a - Jumbles are cookie-like pastries, vention) until `they get so thick as to female space, one over which slaves which tend to have a relatively simple be of the consistence of boiled cus- could exert a little control. While the recipe of nuts, flour, eggs, and sugar, tard,’ and so on. She performed mistress had ultimate au- with vanilla, anise, or caraway seed chores we would never imagine. thority and would drop in `Stick your pig just above the breast- unannounced to order used for flavoring. bone, run your knife to the heart, meals, distribute and - POUND CAKE: Historic evidence when it is dead put it in cold water for monitor supplies, and confirms recipes for pound cake first a few minutes,’ began one recipe in an supervise cooking . . ., she surface in 18th century English and old cookery book.” (Crump) was usually glad to leave American cookbooks. Then, as now, as soon as she felt her HEAVY WORK/SLAVE COOK/ there were variations on the recipe. presence was not needed.” (Carlyle) MISTRESS WORK - “While the heavy Early recipes sometimes included al- jobs were relegated to the cook, the cohol and currants. Many are flavored mistress of the house oversaw the TYPES OF CAKES, COOKIES with a hint of lemon. Then, as now, operation. She planned the menus, AND INGREDIENTS, ETC. proportions varied. Many recipes for discussed them with the cook, then - 1234: Culinary evidence confirms pound cake call for more or less than doled out necessary supplies most of the practice of naming cakes for their a pound! Cup cakes & 1234 cake are which were kept under lock and measurements dates (at least) to the related. key.” (Crump) 18th century. In the days when many "Pound-cake. A rich cake so called as ARISTOCRATIC WIVES - “Aristocratic people couldn't read, this simple con- originally containing a pound (or women usually had a specialty or two vention made it simple to remember equal weight) of each of the principal they prepared themselves.” (Crump) recipes. Pound cake and cupcakes are ingredients, flour, butter, sugar, fruit, foods of this genre. They were com- etc." ---Oxford English Dictionary, 2nd posed of the same basic ingredients of ed. Volume XII (p. 247) (web) - "Queen cake. A small rich cake notes the collection the recipes were Fruit Cake made from a creamed mixture with taken.] Beat 1 lb butter 1 lb Sugar to a cream currants, lemon zest, and sometimes add 12 eggs beaten light chopped almonds, baked as individual Black Cake lb flour well dried cakes. They have been popular since at 1 lb flour 2(1) lb stoned Raisins 1 lb currants 1 lb least the 18th century. Now usually 2 ” sugar Citron 1 lb blanched almonds cut up baked in paper cases, traditionally little 2 ” butter wine brandy Rose water a fluted moulds in fancy shapes were 2 doz eggs Glass of each, a nutmeg some cinna- used; Eliza Acton (1845) said that 2 lbs plums mon, mace and cloves, heart-shaped moulds were usual for 2 “ currants Flour the fruits this mixture." ---Oxford Companion to 1 “ citron White Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford Univer- 1 tablespoon of cinnamon sity Press: Oxford] 1999 (p. 644) (Web) 1 “ “ mace Queens Cake - Ratafia is a liqueur or cordial fla- 4 nutmegs Beat ¾ of a lb of butter to a cream voured with lemon peel, herbs in vari- 2 glasses of wine ¾ of a lb of sugar beat and sifted add ous amounts (nutmeg, cinnamon, 2 “ “ brandy To the butter and well stirred together clove, mint, rosemary, anise, etc.) typi- 2 lemons/grated rhind then cally combined with sugar. It may also 1 Teaspoonful of soda The whites of 3 eggs well beaten, then be prepared with peach or cherry ker- the yolks nels, bitter almonds, or other fruits, as This Mother’s receipt for the above. I Alternately a glass of brandy 1 lb of many different varieties are made. The have it this Thos. Spauldings. The Flour a nutmeg same name is given to a flavouring only receipt of hers. I have is for plum Telfair pudding, Has been in constant use by essence resembling bitter almonds, and the family since 1801. Superior Sponge Cake also to a light biscuit. Spaulding One pound Sugar half pound flour, 10 - SPONGE CAKE. A light cake made by the whisking method in which egg eggs, the rind and juice yolks are beaten with sugar, then flour Very nice cup cake of one lemmon, beat the yolks very and other ingredients added. The term 1 cup of butter, 2 of sugar, 3 of flour light and mix them put in the 'sponge cake' probably came into use (before its sifted) white beaten stiff, lastly shade in the during the 18th century, although the 5 eggs beaten very light, whites and flour very gently, and do not Oxford English Dictionary has no refer- yoke stir after the flour is mixed. ence earlier than a letter Jane Austen separately, White wrote in 1808 (she evidently liked beat the sugar with the yolks, cream sponge cakes)." ---Oxford Companion to ———- Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford Univer- the butter, Yeast sity Press: Oxford] 1999 (p. 748) - web & stir this flour into it alternately mix A handful of hops to a pint of water - A Shrewsbury cake or Shrewsbury in the yolks boiled until very strong biscuit is a classic English dessert, & whites, add a tumbler of sweet Strained and missed in a tolerably named for Shrewsbury, the county cream, or a cup thick batter add to it a Potatoe town of Shropshire. They are made of buttermilk, ½ tea spoons of soda, either Irish or sweet mashed & stirred from dough that contains sugar, flour, mixed in little in well in two tablespoons ful of egg, butter, and lemon zest. Shrews- of the cream, or milk, or if yeast pow- molasses bottle it hot & only half bury cakes can be small in size for der is used – fill the bottles serving several at a time, or large for ½ tea spoonful, ½ nutmeg, 2 table Reid serving as a dessert in themselves. spoons of brandy, ———— ½ lb of raisins or currants is an im- ——————————- Icing for Cake provement. List of Historic Recipes Gathered Take 8 eggs and after the whites are Cunningham from the Georgia Historical Society. well beaten to a froth

[See name at the end of each recipe spread a pound of sifted sugar on the top and the juice of 2 lemons

PEOPLE FROM EARLY 19TH CENTURY TALKING Some rose water rub this till over them to prevent them ABOUT CAKE perfectly smooth running together Robert MacKay to his wife Eliza Anne Mackay, White White Savannah, January 10, 1807 Speaking of having ———— been sent “the remains of . . . [a] Twelfth day feast, Cookies New Year Cookies more Jelly, Pyes & Tarts than served us for two days 1 lb Sugar boiled slowly in ½ 3 lbs of sugar ½ lb butter wine desert, though we had Craig, Nichols & several other pt of water glass of the Sweet Tooth Gentry to help us destroy them. . Take the scum off and then rose water one of water ½ tea- .” p. 57 cool add spoon Robert MacKay to his wife Eliza Anne Mackay, Two teaspoonsful of pearl ash of pearl ash 1 lb four teaspoon Savannah, January 24, 1807 then 2 ½ cinnamon 1 nutmeg put the “The Ladies are still insisting upon Mein & I giving Lbs of Flour rubbed in four sugar in the water them a tea party . . . Mrs. Taylor & Mrs. Scarbrough ounces of Butter cut the butter up in the flour insist upon making all the Jellies & trifle, Cake, 7c., & 2 table spoonsful of pounded Knead all will not be said no to. . . .”” p. 61 caraway Telfair Margaret Hall – attending a Presbyterian wed- Seed make rolls ½ inch thick ding “In a few minutes the solemnity of the scene bake Rusk was in some measure relieved by the entrance of a boy Them in a slack over 15 or 20 Melt together 1 pt milk ¾ sug- bearing a tray covered with plates of two beautiful minutes ar wedding cakes, of which each guest helped himself or They can be kept for three ½ butter pour it into as much herself to a large piece, even the newly married pair weeks. flour seemed to have retained their appetite for plum cake, Reid As will make it not too stiff, 5 and the gentleman had still his senses sufficiently eggs about him to take proper care of his wedding suit and Jumbles Beaten light – a cup of yeast – followed the examples of the other males of the party Beat up together 1 lb Flour, 1 put it to in spreading his pocket handkerchief over his knees to lb Butter 1 lb Sugar, add the Rise before tis baked wash the protect his trousers from the grease of the cake.” p.81 yolks top with of 2 eggs, cinnamon, nutmeg The top with the white of an Margaret Bayard Smith. Sidney, Sum- and Rose water, grease the tins egg mer 1811 – Birthday party “I had a table they are baked in Reid with benches round it in the front Piazza, Coconut jumbles to be made as to which we moved after dinner to eat our the above with the addition of PRIMARY RESOURCES FROM dessert, and which we called going to Mrs. cocou THE GEORGIA HISTORICAL Cutting’s party. Pine apples, oranges, cakes, sugar nut, part grated and part cut in SOCIETY: plumbs nuts figs &c &c adorn’d with the gayest flow- small pieces Ruth Erwin Welman Reid ers and lilies in abundance; to which elegant repast White Cookbook, 1838-1849. (for such it really was) I added nothing but ice- MS: 652. Georgia Histori- creams . . . . The Piazza was soon transform’d into a Macaroons cal Society. bower . . . When the sun was completely excluded, Beat up a pound of Butter and Anna Mathews White note- the Pianno was placed at one end of the large piazza one of sugar together, Blanch book, 1828-1832. MS: and the sopha at the other, and a table on which the and pound in a mortar 1 lb of 857. Georgia Historical big bowl (which is used only on grand occasions) the Almonds and a handful of Society. Savannah, Geor- birth day cake crown’d with lilies and roses and fruit kernels with a little sugar, put gia. was placed, and we drank punch, eat cake, till they all these to the butter and sugar Spaulding Family Papers, 1772- felt in a good humour for dancing.”p.88 with 1840. MS. 750 Georgia Mob at the White House – March 1829 “had cake the whites of 8 eggs beaten to a Historical Society. Savan- and wine in abundance” a struggle to get to the re- froth, put them on paper shape nah, Georgia. freshments “ice-cream, and cake and lemonade.” p. them round and bake them in a Sarah Alexander Cunningham 296 slack over Collection, 1803-1939. MS: March 1831 – “The bridal cake was crowned with a sift fine sugar 194. Georgia Historical pair of doves (in sugar).” p. 296 Society. Savannah, Geor- A look at the DH Guest Regis- enough to come back." gia. ter: During the month of No- "Awesome." "Interesting and “Recipe Book of Puddings. vember (2013), the DH saw visi- fun for all ages!" "Amazing." Telfair Collection. MS. tors from 42 states and 9 coun- "Great presentation." 793. Georgia Historical tries including Australia, Canada, "Breathtaking!" "Chassidy is Society. Savannah, Geor- Denmark, England, Finland, great!" "Really cool!" gia. Mexico, The Philippines, Scot- "Marvelous." "Loved it. Tour land and Switzerland. Interesting guide very knowledgeable." PUBLISHED PRIMARY hometown names include Up- "Susan was very thorough - great land, CA, Monument, CO, Mar- job!" "Superb guide." "Keep the SOURCES: seilles, IL, Fallston, MD, St cat." "Nice insight into past life." Mrs. Basil Hall. The Aristo- Leonard, MD, Moss Point, MS, "Kate is kool." "Super. Thanks, cratic Journey: Being the Osyka, MS, Bogota, NJ, Mentor, Joyce." "Amazing job. Thanks, Outspoken Letters of OH, Goodlettsville, TN, Chuck- Pete." "John - excellent tour." Mrs. Basil Hall – Written ey, TN, Kemah, TX, and White "We agree with the above com- During A Fourteen Stone, VA. ment." "John was great, humor- Month Sojourn I Ameri- ous and knowledgeable." "A ca. 1827-1828. How They Heard About Us wonder to see." "Thank you for Robert MacKay. The Letters (in descending order of fre- sharing your history with us." of Robert Mackay to his quency): Tour guides (Andrew "Lovely wall paper." Wife: Written from Ports Low House); trolley tours (Old "Wonderful, respectful preserva- in America and England, Town Trolley, Oglethorpe, Old tion effort." 1795-1816. Savannah Tours); brochures; In- Margaret Bayard Smith. Forty ternet (GroupOn, Trip Advisor); Years Of Washington guide books (AAA); Visitor Cen- Society. ter; concierge (Hilton, Gastonian, Planters Inn); friend; walk by; SECONDARY RESOURCES: repeat visit; relative; map; adver- Nancy Carlisle and Melinda tisement; and my absolute favor- Talbot Nasardinov, ite entry – Airport Handler! America’s Kitchens. His- toric New England. What They Had To Say: 2008. "Great tour." "Very interesting." Nancy Carter Crump. "Very informational." Hearthside Cooking: "Wonderful tour." "Great histor- ic information." "Terrific tour." Early American Southern "Worth seeing again." Cuisine. "Wonderful restoration. Bless Elisabeth Donaghy Garrett. the ladies!" "Absolutely captivat- At Home: The American ing." "Lovely." "Great guide!" Family 1750-1870. "Very beautiful." "Gorgeous Nichola Humble. Cake: A house! Fascinating history! Great Global History. tour guide!" "Beautiful house." History of Cake. http:// "Beautifully and faithfully re- www.foodtimeline.org/ stored - great guide." foodcakes.html "Inspiring." "Interesting house and history with a good guide. Thank you." "Nice. Interesting slice of history." "Loved it