STATE of the INDUSTRY What 2021 Holds for the Changing Culinary Landscape
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STATE OF THE INDUSTRY What 2021 holds for the changing culinary landscape JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 If you like to PLAY WITH FIRE, you belong WITH US Membership. Certification. Online Learning Center. Apprenticeship. Events. WeAreChefs.com. ACFchefs.org. FEATURE STORIES 28 For the Long Run ACF chef members from across the industry share the pandemic-driven positive changes they’ve made that have become permanent fixtures — and will ensure their future success. 36 Plight of Packaging COVID-19 and quarantines have driven an increase in takeout, and that means more to-go packaging. These chefs are making sure they don’t harm the environment as a result. If you like to DEPARTMENTS PLAY WITH FIRE, 10 Management Chef Ashten Garrett discusses the need for kitchen culture to become more diverse and inclusive. you belong 16 Main Course WITH US A look at melting cheeses — perfect for cold-weather days and comfort food dishes. 19 On the Side Potatoes offer a low-cost, versatile option for chefs looking to stretch their budget and creativity. 24 Pastry These cakes feature seasonal fruit for another layer of flavor, nutrition and finesse. 26 Classical vs. Modern Cuban-American Chef Carlos Villanueva prepares Boliche Cubano, a classic dish passed to him from his grandmother; a modern version swaps beef for quail. 44 Health Culinary medicine has been a growing interest over the past decade, but a global pandemic — combined with chef initiatives —could push it to the forefront of modern menuing. IN EACH ISSUE 4 President’s Message 6 On the Line 22 ACF Chef Profile 7 News Bites 42 Chef-to-Chef 14 Chapter Close-Up 50 The Quiz Membership. Certification. Online Learning Center. Apprenticeship. Events. WeAreChefs.com. ACFchefs.org. WEARECHEFS.COM 3 | President’s Message | Un Mensaje Del Presidente | There’s something about a new year. A new year gives us the chance to make resolutions, of course, but also to do some soul searching and decide what we want to change and accomplish in the coming year. It’s a way to start fresh. It’s a time to renew, recharge, and Editor-in-Chief Amelia Levin perhaps work to better ourselves a little. Creative Services Manager David Ristau I think I speak for most of us when I say Graphic Designer 2021 couldn’t be a more welcome new year. The pandemic and economic Armando Mitra Advertising and Event Sales woes have strained our mental, emotional and financial resources. But Eric Gershowitz now there is a light at the end of the tunnel. News about effective vaccines Jeff Rhodes Director of Marketing and Communications and improved treatments bring hope. This winter has been a rough one, Alan Sterling but we hunker down now so we can emerge safely and be together again. American Culinary Federation, Inc. That said, I cannot be more excited about what we have planned 180 Center Place Way • St. Augustine, FL 32095 for this year, including four ACF ChefsForum events: St. Louis and (800) 624-9458 • (904) 824-4468 • Fax: (904) 940-0741 Pittsburgh in March, and Tucson (Arizona) and Nashville (Tennessee) in [email protected] • [email protected] www.acfchefs.org April. Like many of you, I have missed seeing my friends and colleagues in the industry. We have put in place rigid COVID-19 safety guidelines Board of Directors that will help us stay safe when we meet again. As a supplement, we President Thomas Macrina, CEC®, CCA®, AAC® have a strong digital and virtual platform that offers yet another way to National Secretary maintain our close connections and access ongoing educational content Mark Wright, CEC, AAC National Treasurer for learning and growth. James Taylor, CEC, AAC, MBA I’m even more excited for the ACF National Convention this summer American Academy of Chefs Chair Americo “Rico” DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC in Orlando, Florida. The annual convention is a highlight of my year Vice President Central Region and, I’m sure, for many of you as well. This year’s event will be a little Steven Jilleba, CMC®, CCE®, AAC Vice President Northeast Region bittersweet, as my interim presidency will come to an end, but I look Barry R. Young, CEC, CCE, AAC forward to passing the gavel to the next president who will lead our Vice President Southeast Region Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC®, CCA, AAC federation toward a bright future. Vice President Western Region Robert W. Phillips, CEC, CCA, AAC Speaking of a bright future, I encourage you to consider using this Executive Director time to learn and try something new. Visit the ACF Online Learning Heidi Cramb Center to check out the popular COVID-19 Training and Certificate to The National Culinary Review® (ISSN 0747-7716), January/ help you navigate ongoing industry changes and assure customers that February 2021, Volume 45, Number 1, is owned by the American Culinary Federation, Inc. (ACF) and is produced 6 times a year your operation has met the highest standards for safety. Also, consider by ACF, located at 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095. A digital subscription to the National Culinary Review® participating in a competition this year; we’re in the process of building is included with ACF membership dues; print subscriptions are available to ACF members for $25 per year, domestic; the 2024 ACF Culinary Team USA and scheduling competitions for next nonmember subscriptions are $40. Material from the National year (visit acfchefs.org for more information). Culinary Review®, in whole or in part, may not be reproduced without written permission. All views and opinions expressed Above all, now’s the time to stick together. We’re all in this change as in the National Culinary Review® are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers or an industry, and as ACF members, we can progress — no, blast — into members of ACF. Changes of mailing address should be sent to ACF’s national office: 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL the future as a united and powerful front. 32095; (800) 624-9458; Fax (904) 940-0741. The National Culinary Review® is mailed and periodical postage Happy New Year and see you soon, is paid at St. Augustine, Fla., and additional post offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to the National Culinary Review®, 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095. Thomas “Tom” Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC National President American Culinary Federation Contact me at [email protected] or follow me on Twitter @cheftommacrina and Instagram @cheftommacrina 4 NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 El año nuevo siempre trae algo especial. Un año nuevo nos da la oportunidad de tener nuevos propósitos, por supuesto, pero también de hacer un examen de conciencia y decidir qué queremos cambiar y lograr el próximo año. Es una forma de empezar de cero. Es un momento para renovarnos, recargarnos y quizás trabajar para mejorar un poco. Creo que hablo por la mayoría de nosotros cuando digo que el 2021 no podría ser un año más esperado. La pandemia y las turbulencias económicas han agotado nuestros recursos mentales, emocionales y financieros. Pero ahora hay una luz al final del túnel. Las noticias sobre vacunas eficaces y tratamientos mejorados traen esperanza. Este invierno ha sido difícil, pero ahora nos refugiamos para poder resurgir y estar juntos de nuevo. Habiendo dicho esto, no puedo estar más emocionado con los eventos que organizamos este año, incluidos cuatro foros de chefs de la ACF: St. Louis y Pittsburgh en marzo, y Tucson (Arizona) y Nashville (Tennessee) en abril. Como muchos de ustedes, he echado de menos a mis amigos y colegas de la industria. Hemos implementado pautas de seguridad rígidas para combatir el COVID-19 que nos ayudarán a mantenernos seguros cuando nos encontremos en persona. Como complemento, contamos con una sólida plataforma digital y virtual que ofrece otra forma de mantener nuestras conexiones cercanas y acceder a contenidos educativos continuos para el aprendizaje y el crecimiento. Y estoy aún más emocionado por la Convención Nacional de la ACF este verano en Orlando, Florida. La convención anual siempre es lo más destacado del año para mí, y estoy seguro que es igual para muchos de ustedes. El evento de este año será un poco agridulce, ya que mi presidencia interina llegará a su fin, pero espero pasar la posta al próximo presidente que guiará a nuestra federación hacia un futuro brillante. Hablando de un futuro brillante, los invito a que piensen en aprovechar este tiempo para aprender y probar algo nuevo. Visiten el Centro de aprendizaje en línea de la ACF para consultar la popular Capacitación y certificación de COVID-19, que los ayudará a transitar los cambios continuos de la industria y garantizar los más altos estándares de seguridad para sus clientes. También les pido que consideren participar de una competencia este año; Estamos en el proceso de desarrollar el Equipo Culinario de la ACF 2024 en Estados Unidos y programar competencias para el próximo año (ingresen en acfchefs.org para acceder a más información). Y por sobre todas las cosas, este es el momento para mantenernos unidos. Todos estamos atravesando este cambio como industria, y como miembros de la ACF, podemos transitar este avance, ¡o mejor dicho, esta explosión! hacia el futuro como un frente unido y poderoso. Les deseo un feliz Año Nuevo y nos vemos pronto, Thomas “Tom” Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC Presidente Nacional American Culinary Federation WEARECHEFS.COM 5 | On the Line | What’s Cooking on WeAreChefs.com Visit WeAreChefs.com, the official content hub for the American Culinary Federation, to read online exclusive articles, including industry trends, interviews, COVID-19 coverage, recipes and more.