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INTRAMUROS

Founded by the Spaniards, destroyed by the Americans during the war, the walled city is being restored by the Filipinos.

by Esperanza B. Gatbonton

In the summer of 1570, Mar- tin de Goiti, Legaspi's master- of-camp, and Juan de Salcedo, the 's grandson, sailed off for from Panay, in search of a more congenial settlement than the Visayan island had been for their expedition. With them was a native Manilan, a trader newly converted to Christia- nity, who had followed the Spaniards to their new settle- ment from Cebu. He was to act as interpreter for the questing Spaniards. He probably guided them as well, northwards to Luzon and into Manila Bay, past Mindoro and Balayan Bay. The Spanish fleet consisted of one armed frigate, one junk and fifteen praus. The Spanish chronicler's account of the expedition's first view of Manila was little short of rapturous. Map of old

"The land all around this bay, town was situated in the bank of in the part where we anchored ... the river, and it seemed to be the port of Menilla, was really defended by a palisade all along marvellous. It appeared to be A Reprint from "Weekend,"a its front. Within it were many tilled and cultivated. The slopes warriors, and the shore outside Magazine of the Daily Express were smooth, and had but little crowded with people. Pieces of issued in Manila on 4 May herbage. In fact, so excellent artillery stood at the gates, 1980. indications have not been seen in guarded by bombardiers, lin- this land as were seen there...The stock in hand." 25

This was to be the Spanish attacked in 1574. With some "From this fort (Fort Santia- promised land. On the very luck, it held. go) and the beach near the sea, same site of this palisaded The succeeding governor, I have dug a deep ditch, 34 feet town that the voyagers came (1575- wide, which fills with the in- upon, the Spaniards built their 1580), was appalled by the coming tide and even at low tide city. They enlarged the orig- primitive conditions, of Mani- has sufficient water to float inal palisade which the dis- la's defenses. He ordered the several vessels used in carrying riverside staked in and the sea- materials to the said work. This placed indios has built at the ditch extends from the sea to mouth of the Pasig River and side filled in with earth. He the river and at that side around encircled their new settlement joined the palisades with the entire city in such wise that with a defensive wall. embankments and raised the latter is an island formed by The Walls took 300 years to mounds. This gave the garrison sea, river and ditch. In the place build. Beginning from Legazpi a commanding view of the of the wooden fortress, I am himself, up until 1872, succes- surrounding area. In those going to build a bulwark to sive governors-general sought early years, the danger often defend the entrance to the river to improve Manila's defenses came from the sea — from and beach which can correspond — in between fighting off in- raiding "moros," and from to the tower already built; and Chinese and Japanese pirates. the new fortress will defend vasions from land and sea: both sides of the ditch and the the Chinese Limahong, the At times, these marauders sea. Along the river bank I have Dutch, rebels from the were joined by the Portuguese, ordered stone breastwork built, Chinese Parian, and the British. who were primarily interested extending from the old wooden Each assault showed how for- in dislodging the Spaniards fortress, on one side, to the midable the Walls were in cer- from the East. ditch on the other." tain places and how vulnera- The following year, with ble they were in others. Over another Governor General — The material De Vera chose the centuries, the Walls be- (1584-1590) for his defenses was adobe or came a sophisticated fortress — and the services of Antonio volcanic tufa, which he describ- — surrounded by moats and Sederlo, a Jesuit who had once ed as "so suitable that when it ramparts, bastions and gates worked as a military engineer, is wet, it can be worked like and look-out towers, which a more lasting type of defense wood and when dry it is very kept an enemy at bay and the went up. De Vera wrote of strong and durable; and it is Spaniards safe within. his plans: better than brick for artillery," Even Intramuros, the Spanish city within the Walls, took on the character of its Walls — turned in on itself, smug, brooding on gone glory and in the end, defenseless against the outside world. Until 1852, its eight gates clos- ed at 11 o'clock in the evening to open only at dawn.

History of the Walls

The first defenses which the Spaniards built were no better than Soliman's palisades of palm tree-logs banked with earth. Guido de Lavezares (1572-1575) strengthened this main line of defense along the seaside, adding boxes and barrels filled with sand. As a precaution against fire, he or- Puerta Isabel, a gateway to Intramuros, has been restored dered all straw roofs removed from within the city limits. It and transformed into a small museum. was De Lavezares' fort which the Chinese pirate Limahong 26

A more elaborate gate in

ces. Dutch raids were most frequent, and most fierce dur- ing this period, and Chinese disturbances endemic. Gover- nor Sebastian Hurtado de Cor- cuerra, noting the inadequate protection of some of the strategic areas, introduced some remedies. On the southern portion, near the site of the old Fort of Nuestra Senora de Guia; and the Fun- dicion, Corcuerra built a moat which connected to an older one. He also demolished several houses which adjoined the Walls, but this decision was to be a very costly one for Corcuerra. For he incurred the ire of the Recoletos, whose convent outside the Wall, that of San Juan, only stood several paces away. But Corcuerra's foresight was to be vindicated, since the British used this weak spot for at- tacking the city's defenses in 1762. Like Lavezares years before Resentment from overwork- (1609-1616), him, Santiago de Vera ordered ed natives and exploited Chi- Nino de Tabora (1626-1632), all inflammable roof thatch nese created uneasy times for Diego de Fajardo (1643) and huts in the Walled City the Spaniards. In fact, Das- Manriquede Lara (1653-1663), brought down. With the new marinas was murdered by Chi- successively worked on technology and the skill of Se- nese mutineers on an expedi- changes on the western side, deno, roof tiles soon became tion to the Moluccas. De adding bastions and redoubts: fashionable in the Intramuros Vera's handiwork, the Fort of San Francisco, San Juan, San houses. the Nuestra Senora de Guia Jose, San Pedro. Fajardo, who The fortification of Manila (now the Bastion de San Die- completed the building of now took a more professional go located directly opposite Bastion de San Diego, also turn. Gomez Perez Dasmarinas the Manila Hotel), Dasmarinas finished what Tabora had be- came in 1590 (1590-93) supplemented with breastwork gun. He enlarged and improv- armed with a letter from King and ramparts. He added the ed San Andres and Dilao far Philip, and apparently accom- bastions of. San Andres (in beyond Dasmarinas' concept panied by an engineer, Leo- front of Bulletin Today); San of these bastions. nardo Iturriano, who designed Gabriel (beside Letran); San Dr Lara was kept busy by the fortress and the buildings. Fernando Dilao or San Loren- repairs and additional forti- (Whether Iturriano did come zo (near Mapua). For some fication. The Revel/in de to the at all is still time Dasmarinas' Walls suf- Parian is of this date. Two being disputed by historians.) ficed, and except for minor major earthquakes in 1645 Dasmarinas fortified Fort repairs and alterations, not and 1658 necessitated major Santiago, raising its walls to much was done to change repairs. Bastion de San Diego, double the height of a man, and them. which had just been complet- greatly reinforced defenses on The seventeenth century, ed in 1644, suffered heavy the landward side. however, saw many disturban- damage. It was said that De 27

Lara was so dedicated to re- parts facing the Pasig and con- Typhoons and earthquakes building the Walls that he gave verted them into a bastioned were constantly damaging the work his own money and front. Then Plano Bastion(Bas- rooftiles, so that by the end all his time. He practically tion de Sta Lucia), San Fran- of the nineteenth century, the lived in a little hut by the cisco and San Pedro were im- familiar red roof, quite often beach, so that he could al- proved. San Pedro, an out- moss-grown, had given way to ways be on hand. erwork, became a small fort, more practical galvanized iron. In the eighteenth century, while San Francisco also be- Intramuros architecture the bastions of San Andres came an independent unit, not used methods and materials and San Fernando de Dilao an extension of the curtain familiar to the Spaniards; but metamorphosed into their (plain span of the Wall con- in spirit it reflected the re- final stages — a far cry from necting two Bastions). alities of living in the tropics. the breastwork in Dasmarinas' Work on the most contin- Massive, squarish foundations plans, but bearing traces of Sil- ued and became more compli- of adobe that hug the earth va's and Tabora's planning. cated. The Spaniards were gave buildings stability against The restoration of Fort Santia- confronted with the problems tremors; wood tenoned and go was undertaken by Fernan- of constructing a ditch on wet dovetailed together could absorb the earth's movement do de Valdez y Tamon (1729- and boggy soil. They dug as without splitting. Large win- 1739). Its inner gate used to close to the wall as possible dows let in the wind and carry an inscription dedicated while working clear of its sunlight; when drawn to shut to this governor-general, who foundation. At the end of the scarp they built a long slope out the excess sun and rain, did much to rehabilitate and translucent capiz shells light- rebuild the old fort. way below the water line and Succeeding governors-gener- al heightened, modified, add- ed to the Walls. The addition of the battery of San Gre- gorio just outside the Bastion San Diego more or less com- pleted its development. The Intramuros architecture used methods and materials British took the city in 1762. They laid siege to Intramuros familiar to the Spaniards, but in spirit, it reflected the by training artillery fire on the Spaniards from the churches realities of living in the tropics. of Santiago' and San Juan — both churches were situated across what is now Padre Burgos Drive on General Luna Street. Afterward, the British themselves destroyed the two churches, seeing the wisdom extending to the bottom of ened the gloom within. of Corcuerra and Pedro the moat. Intramuros homes had all Manuel de Arandia, who had But the end of the empire the creature comforts of the repeatedly advocated their was now nearing for the East and imported goods from relocation. Spaniards. They did no addi- the West. Up till the turn of tional building, as though re- the twentieth century, popular The British departure in alizing the futility of hanging shops in Intramuros sold 1764 marked the last phase on to the four kilometers of fineries, wines, cheeses and in the development of the terrain that the Walls enclos- sausages from Europe. At the Walls. The Spanish engineer ed. Even the city within, with same time, circumstances Miguel Antonio Gomez repair- its seven churches and beau- forced the breaching of ed Real Gate and changed tiful homes, was sadly falling Spanish exclusiveness —allow- the right flank of San Gabriel. apart. The earthquakes also ing a rich Chinese trader or two, He made several changes on exacted a heavy toll on Span- or an indio servant or maid the Parian Gate — starting with ish finances and Spanish to reside within the Walls. the bridge, which used to be energy. Extensive repairs were Intramuros After Spain flushed to the left of the inner cumbersome. Some of the re- gate. This was moved to the pairs done on damaged struc- By the time the Americans center and a revellín or outer- tures were done in patches, came, Manila had grown well work added. Another Spanish without regard for consistency beyond the Walls. Extramural engineer modified the ram- with the old architecture. development left the Walled 28

City to the friars, to students per cent of the network except that modern "restora- and to a few aristocratic remained intact, though two tion" is a very exacting science families clinging to the past. of the most beautiful gates that is intrinsically related to Slowly it became a city of — Sta. Lucia and Fort Santia- archaeology, history and archi- dormitories and boarding go — were rammed by Ameri- tecture. All three are interre- houses. Impoverished mestizos can tanks. lated disciplines. The first two shared the entresuelos of provide the key to past history grand old houses their owners After a long period of and reconstruction; architec- could no longer keep up in neglect, Intramuros is today ture objectifies that past. style. being restored. A presidential To rebuild the Walls, exten- decree issued on April 10, sive research both by way of Intramuros Churches still 1979 created an Intramuros documentation and actual called the faithful to their Administration, which became excavation of the structure is doors for the pomp and responsible for the restoration necessary. Besides historical pageantry of Holy Week pro- and administration of Intra- and archaeological researches, cessions and novenas to cen- muros. Its chairman is the laboratory control is crucial to turies-old images. The Minister of Human Settle- restoration. In Intramuros, Recoletos' most famous image ments and Metro Manila where the materials for resto- was a Paciencia or Christ at Governor, Mrs. Imelda R. Mar- ration are mostly adobe, tiles the Pillar brought from cos. Its Action Officer is the and bricks, laboratory experi- Mexico in the seventeenth Minister of Budget Jaime C. ments analyze the composi- century. The Augustinians had Laya, a history connoisseur tion of each, so that replace- an image of La Consolacion, of Philippine antiquities. ments for the missing parts may approximate the originals as closely as possible. A range of firing temperatures for the bricks and tiles used in Intra- muros is recommended by laboratory technicians to con- Restoration is related to archaeology, history and trol the coloring and texture of the new prototypes. architecture. The first two provide the key to past Typing of stones is also history and reconstruction; architecture objectifies done to determine the "com- the past. patibility" of stones in terms of color, texture and porosity. A porous stone will suffer placed side by side with a non- porous type. Take only the ac- tion of rainwater. The porous stones will absorb a heavier and the Dominicans a celebrat- The Restoration Work amount of water than the ed image of La Soledad (Our non-porous one. If a porous Lady of Solitude). Intramuros, stone is mixed with non- despite its decay, kept its The restoration of Intra- porous types, the water will own charm and its nostalgic muros calls for the reconstruc- not be able to drain off and air. tion of its Walls and rebuilding evaporate. Excessive moisture During the Pacific War, In- of the city. The word "res- will cause the growth of harm- tramuros suffered heavily toration" implies reinstate- ful organisms and fungi. Each from bombardment and artil- ment to its original state. Thus type of stone also has dis- lery fire, inflicted by the ad- the immediate goal of the In- tinctive mineral properties vancing American forces and tramuros Administration is to which, in contact with other the retreating Japanese army. rebuild and complete the substances, can cause adverse The Spanish city, which the Walls, in places where no reactions. Walls had protected from streets or buildings stand. Two types of reconstruc- threats from land and sea, Work has begun on the revel- tion are being done in Intra- proved vulnerable to attack lin of the Parian. Puerta Isabel, muros. One is the restoration from the air. When the bom- Bastion de San Diego, Puerta of structures which are in bings stopped, there were Sta. Lucia, Bastion de San An- ruins. The other is the recon- only shells of buildings and dres and Fort Santiago. struction of buildings and debris. The Walls themselves Rebuilding the Walls might structures that have com- fared much better. Some 75 seem fairly easy work to do — pletely disappeared. Each type poses specific challenges to the tion, waterproofing of the restoration team, which structures and the extensive consists of archaeologists, use of dessicants. Better researchers, architects and answers might be in the years builders. Intramuros is a symbol of the ahead. When that happens, the Where existing structures Filipinos - the builders of restorers of Intramuros will are concerned, the actual also be better qualified to condition of the building has the Walls. iudge their usefulness. to be fully evaluated. Is it structurally sound? If not, Why restore Intramuros at how can it be reinforced by all? In the short time that modern methods of construc- restoration has been going on, tion, without altering the various 'Critics have come for- character of the building and quires of them a very strong ward to criticize the Philip- its appearance? In judging its sense of discipline and history. pine government's decision to architectural members, one restore the Walls. The most asks the questions: which be- The Walls in the Modern Era common remark is that a longs to what period, and how In the process of rebuilding, developing country such as integral is each part to the one very hard but vitally re- ours should not spend money spirit of the original struc- levant question is: How does on restoration, and should ture? one adapt these structures to pour it instead on projects modern use and modern that will materially and These questions cannot be demonstrably benefit the grea- answered precipitately, but times? Even the electrification of these ancient structures ter part of our national com- must be thought out with great munity. Besides these, critics deliberation. For mistakes creates problems. Wiring that will deface the structure is add, Intramuros is a colonial made now will create diffi- symbol. culties for the future, af- unacceptable, so that what fecting the entire pattern of would have been a fairly historical detail. straightforward installation in Rationale for Rebuilding Undoubtedly, there will be any other building becomes a errors along the way. Hence problem in restoration work. All of these points may be the full documentation of The adaptation of the Walls to valid — but the reasons for each building by way of pic- modern use has to take into restoring Intramuros transcend torial record and field docu- consideration the character of them all. The Walls may be mentation is done religiously, the structure itself. And in the regarded as a colonial symbol, so that mistakes can easily case of those portions of it because they were made for be corrected. In matters where that are being renovated into a our conquerors. But they are questionable decisions had museum site, one needs to as much a symbol of the been taken in the past, docu- evaluate as well the artifacts Filipinos themselves — the mentation may explain why that such a museum will house. builders of the Walls — signi- such a decision was reached As they are, the bastions, fying the fortitude and great- — and, justifying future gen- fortins, and gates are not ideal ness of spirit of the thousands erations in feeling some com- locations for museums. of workers who labored to passion for those who made it. build it. And whether we like Atmospheric pollutants — it or not, the Spanish colonial In the second type of res- dust and carbon monoxide period shaped us to be the toration, where the plans of from car exhausts — and a people we are today. buildings are based on archi- high degree of humidity neces- val records, determining the sitate a drastic correction of Perhaps because we are accuracy of given details the museum environment. The constant victims of war and creates difficulty for the archi- introduction of dehumidifiers destruction, we often fail to tect. He has to think instinc- and airconditioning should see how relevant the past is to tively into the construction normally solve the problem. our present condition. "Colo- methods of the past and eval- But they do not. Most of the nial" architecture met that uate details from the con- specimens involved — church challenge of relevance with text. In both cases, restora- vestment, images of saints, greater success than we are tion requires great humility icons, architectural details — doing today. This is one rea- from the architects and buil- never existed in a dry atmos- son why a whole block of ders for their sensitivity and phere. A sudden change, period architecture will go up creativity must always be sub- instead of doing them good, in Intramuros as part of the servient to the character of the can hasten their deterioration. restoration project. structure itself. Restoration re- One settles for cross ventila- Continued on page 45