GRAPE PRIDE Wine Country champions local wine purveyors MICHELIN STAR France’s renowned toque Alain Ducasse WINTER shares his secrets WARMERS to success Soups and sandwiches offer convenience, value and decadence

ANNUAL PINNACLE AWARDS ISSUE

TORONTO’S KING STREET FOOD COMPANY NABS COMPANY OF THE YEAR, EASTERN CANADA, HONOURS AT THE 26TH ANNUAL PINNACLE AWARDS

CANADIAN PUBLICATION MAIL PRODUCT SALES AGREEMENT #40063470 CANADIAN PUBLICATION foodserviceandhospitality.com $4 | DECEMBER 2014 Fresh look, enduring commitment Our new logo leads with our family name, refl ecting our commitment to another century of service from the heart.

At Gordon Food Service, we know what it takes to succeed.

For over 115 years, we’ve been advancing thoughtfully and innovating with purpose, partnering with our customers to keep them running today and help them grow tomorrow.

Each day, we’re bringing new ideas to the table. We look forward to meeting you there.

Visit gfs.ca to learn more about Gordon Food Service and our new look. VOLUME 47, NUMBER 9 DECEMBER 2014 CONTENTS

THE th 26 ANNUAL PINNACLE AWARDS 17

29 MARKING THE SEASON Introducing the 26th Annual 64 Pinnacle Award winners26 30 COMPANY OF THE YEAR – EASTERN CANADA WE THREE KINGS An expand- ing empire and a culinary coup of international proportions has cemented -based King Street Food

KRISTA COMEAU [PANINI & CARROT GINGER SOUP], MIKAEL VOJINOVIC [ALAIN DUCASSE ], JACQUELINE YOUNG [MANDEL HITZER] COMEAU [PANINI KRISTA Company’s place in Canada’s culinary landscape By Jennifer Febbraro

34 COMPANY OF THE YEAR – WESTERN 20 CANADA MOVING INLAND Cactus Restaurants Ltd. is set to continue its Features upward trajectory as it prepares to 53 THE SECRET’S OUT More than 150 expand into Eastern Canada restaurants champion Ontario’s By Brianne Binelli versatile, age-worthy and internationally 4 LIVING THE LEGACY With Mitch acclaimed wines By Helen Catellier Kostuch’s passing, the foodservice and 38 INDEPENDENT RESTAURATEUR hospitality, and publishing industries OF THE YEAR BUILDING AN EMPIRE lose one of their icons By Rosanna Caira Toronto’s Chase Hospitality Group is redefining hospitality, creating a unique Departments 17 STAR PERFORMER During a four- experience with top-notch food and day whirlwind tour of Toronto, chef service By Laura Pratt Alain Ducasse met with F&H to share 2 FROM THE EDITOR insights into what makes a Michelin- 42 CHEF OF THE YEAR TURNING THE 10 FYI star chef By Rosanna Caira TIDE Chef Ned Bell steals the spotlight 19 FROM THE DESK this year, becoming the poster boy for OF ROBERT CARTER 20 BITES & BOWLS Canadians are sustainable seafood 57 POURING: Cocktails warming up to soups and sandwiches, By Jackie Sloat-Spencer 59 EQUIPMENT: Buffet Equipment which offer convenience, quality and Food-holding Equipment ingredients and value By Liz Campbell 48 SUPPLIER OF THE YEAR 64 CHEF’S CORNER: STILL WATERS RUN DEEP The guiding Mandel Hitzer, Deer + Almond, principles of integrity, quality and Winnipeg innovation have made High Liner Foods a leading supplier of prepared

COVER PHOTOS: MARGARET MULLIGAN [KING STREET FOOD COMPANY], VENTURI+KARPA [CACTUS RESTAURANTS LTD.]. PHOTOS THIS PAGE: PHOTOS THIS PAGE: LTD.]. [CACTUS RESTAURANTS VENTURI+KARPA COVER PHOTOS: MARGARET MULLIGAN [KING STREET FOOD COMPANY], frozen seafood in Canada By Helen Catellier

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 1 FROM THE EDITOR

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TIME TO SHINE ho doesn’t like a winner? proud of what we have achieved in the Whether talking about sports, past 26 years with the Pinnacle Awards Wbusiness or entertainment, we’re program; after each annual edition, he magnetically drawn to successful individu- would be the first to congratulate me and als and companies. Understandably so. the KML team on yet another great event. Everyone wants to be associated with them As such, we dedicate this issue to Mitch because perhaps, selfishly, on some level, and to everything he represented. As a we hope their success rubs off on us. company, we are sad to have lost his guid- Ironically, when it came time to write ing spirit, his inspiring personality and his this month’s editorial, I planned to focus commitment to excellence. As individuals on excellence, as I typically do every we mourn the passing of a “gentle man,” December in our Pinnacle Awards issue. a humanitarian and a truly special indi- But, before my deadline, circumstances vidual. His legacy will live on. beyond our control changed what I wanted Speaking of excellence, earlier this to say, and why I wanted to say it. Sadly, fall, I had the distinct pleasure of inter- on Oct. 23, Mitch Kostuch, our president, viewing Alain Ducasse, chef/owner of 22 passed away suddenly, leaving a void in restaurants around the world (see story the lives of his personal family and his on p. 17). If anyone can talk about professional one, both here at Kostuch success he can. Ducasse’s stable of restau- Media and at TrainCan, our sister com- rants has garnered a total of 21 Michelin pany. On a larger scale, Mitch’s pass- stars, with three earning three Michelin We dedicate ing has impacted everyone he ever met, stars each — an incredible feat not rep- “ this issue to both professionally and personally, in licated by any other chef. When asked Mitch and to Canada and throughout the world. The what he attributes this achievement to, outpouring of affection moments after we his answer speaks volumes: “You have everything announced his passing is testament to the to work harder, better and faster than he represented. immense respect and admiration Mitch anyone else.” Certainly, all of this year’s As a company, commanded in the industry. winners, and Mitch Kostuch, can attest In many ways, it’s fitting that we feature to that sentiment. we are sad a special tribute to him (see story on p. As we close the chapter on yet anoth- to have lost 4) in the context of this special Pinnacle er year, let’s pause to celebrate the stars his guiding spirit, Awards issue — the one that focuses on that shine so brightly in this industry — excellence. Mitch was truly a special man including Mitch — and thank them for his inspiring who cared so passionately about the food- showing us the way. On behalf of the entire personality and service and hospitality industries, and he KML team, thank you for your continued his commitment was always inspired by the excellence he support over the past year. We wish you saw at every turn, from the operators to a wonderful holiday season, and a happy to excellence the chefs to the suppliers, to the students new year, punctuated by good health, pros- ” who will be tomorrow’s leaders. He recog- perity and always a touch of magic. nized the importance of every individual. He was always excited and re-energized after attending events and conferences, because he always walked away from them with new respect for the industry and a ton of new ideas. Rosanna Caira Of course, Mitch was very proud of Editor/Publisher what the teams at Kostuch and TrainCan [email protected] have accomplished. He was particularly

2 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM CONNECTING THE DOTS

WE HAVE BECOME THE MOST TALKED ABOUT FRANCHISE BRAND IN CANADA'S PREMIUM CASUAL DINING INDUSTRY.

WE’RE CONNECTING THE DOTS BETWEEN RESTAURANTEURS AND GUESTS ALL ACROSS CANADA.

FOUNDER MITCH KOSTUCH Feb. 11, 1931– Oct. 23, 2014

EDITOR & PUBLISHER ROSANNA CAIRA [email protected]

ART DIRECTOR MARGARET MOORE [email protected]

MANAGING EDITOR BRIANNE BINELLI [email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITOR HELEN CATELLIER [email protected] SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER [email protected]

MULTIMEDIA MANAGER DEREK RAE [email protected] DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER MEGAN O’BRIEN [email protected] GRAPHIC DESIGNER COURTNEY JENKINS [email protected]

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER/U.S.A. WENDY GILCHRIST [email protected] ACCOUNT MANAGER/CANADA STEVE HARTSIAS [email protected] ACCOUNT MANAGER/CANADA MARIA FAMA VIECILI [email protected] SALES & MARKETING ASSISTANT CHERYLL SAN JUAN [email protected]

CIRCULATION PUBLICATION PARTNERS [email protected], (905) 509-3511

DIRECTOR JIM KOSTUCH [email protected]

ACCOUNTING DANIELA PRICOIU [email protected]

OFFICE MANAGER TINA ALEXANDROU [email protected] ADVISORY BOARD CARA OPERATIONS KEN OTTO CORA FRANCHISE GROUP DAVID POLNY CRAVE IT RESTAURANT GROUP ALEX RECHICHI FAIRFAX FINANCIAL HOLDINGS LIMITED NICK PERPICK FHG INTERNATIONAL INC. DOUG FISHER FRESHII MATTHEW CORRIN JOEY RESTAURANT GROUP BRITT INNES KATIE JESSOP, REGISTERED DIETITIAN LECOURS WOLFSON LIMITED NORMAN WOLFSON NEW YORK FRIES & SOUTH ST. BURGER CO. JAY GOULD SCHOOL OF HOSPITALITY & TOURISM MANAGEMENT, UNIVERSITY OF GUELPH BRUCE MCADAMS SENSORS QUALITY MANAGEMENT DAVID LIPTON SOTOS LLP JOHN SOTOS MANITOWOC FOODSERVICE JACQUES SEGUIN THE HOUSE OF COMMONS JUDSON SIMPSON THE MCEWAN GROUP MARK MCEWAN UNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS NORTH AMERICA GINNY HARE To subscribe to F&H, visit foodserviceandhospitality.com Volume 47, Number 9 Published 11 times per year by Kostuch Media Ltd., 23 Lesmill Rd., Suite 101, Toronto, Ont., M3B 3P6. Tel: (416) 447-0888, Fax (416) 447-5333, website: foodserviceandhospitality.com.

Subscription Rates: 1-year subscription, $55 (HST included); U.S. $80; International, $100. Canada Post – “Canadian Publication Mail Product Sales Agreement #40063470.” Postmaster send form 33-086-173 (11-82). Return mail to: Kostuch Media Ltd., 23 Lesmill Rd., Suite 101, Toronto, Ont., M3B 3P6. Member of CCAB, a Division of BPA International, International Foodservice Editorial Council, Restaurants Canada, The American Business Media and Magazines Canada. We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada, through the Canadian Periodical Fund (CPF) of the Department of Canadian Heritage. Printed in Canada on recycled stock. 32 locations open 7 under construction

The larger the dots the more locations! TRIBUTE

Mitch was one of five children Mitch attended The Ryerson In 1972, Mitch graduated from born to Antoni and Karolina Kostuch, Institute of Technology. He York University’s MBA program, Polish-born immigrants to Canada. graduated from the Journalism becoming the first mature student Above, Mitch poses for his first program in 1953 to graduate from a university program communion picture without an undergraduate degree

Livingthe

LegacyWITH MITCH KOSTUCH’S PASSING, THE FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY, AND PUBLISHING INDUSTRIES LOSE ONE OF THEIR ICONS BY ROSANNA CAIRA

4 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM TRIBUTE

In 1988, F&H magazine Jan. 10, 1991 was an evening of Also attending the Gold Awards were launched the Man of the Year Award, celebration as editor Rosanna Caira won Jim Kostuch, then account manager, (forerunner to the Pinnacle Awards), which the Gold Award, presented by the Hotelier magazine as well as June and was presented to George Cohon, Ontario Hostelry Institute in the Media Mitch Kostuch then president of McDonald’s Restaurants of Category. (l to r) Wendy Gilchrist, account Canada. (l to r) Rosanna Caira, editor; Mitch; manager; Cari Montgomery, account Cohon; and Lorol Cullen, publisher manager; Caira; Krista Foss, assistant editor; Lorol Cullen, publisher; and Mitch, president

TO MANY in the hospitality and pub- foodservice and hospitality industry. Despite Travel was one of Mitch’s greatest pas- lishing industries, Mitch Kostuch was a man my university degree, I gladly accepted a job sions. There wasn’t a country Mitch hadn’t of many talents. He was an entrepreneur, a as a receptionist, eager to learn everything I been to nor was there a culinary competi- mentor, a visionary, an astute businessman, could about publishing. tion he hadn’t attended and supported: IKA a champion of all things culinary. In his per- Back then, the office was situated one HOGA, precursor to the Culinary Olympics; sonal life, he was a dutiful son, a protective floor below SB Capital, at 85 Bloor St. E., the Culinary Salons of the National brother, a warm and caring uncle, a loving a company Mitch and his partner, George Restaurant Association (NRA); the Bocuse husband and father, a doting grandfather Felles, began in 1973. Once a week, Mitch d’Or in Lyon, France, or the various World and a friend. Above and beyond everything would come down to meet with manage- Association of Cooks Societies competitions; else, he was a true “gentle man;” a warm soul ment and get a regular business update. I and, of course, the countless competitions at who genuinely cared about people and who instantly recognized him from his picture home in the country he loved. He was a food was infinitely passionate about the foodser- in F&H magazine; he held out his arm to aficionado. And nothing made him happier vice and hospitality industry. shake my hand, smiled that trademark smile than combining both of these loves. His sudden passing this October leaves and welcomed me to the company. I replied, I remember travelling with him to a huge void in the two industries he cham- “Thank you Mr. Kostuch,” and he quickly Frankfurt for the 1988 Culinary Olympics. pioned for almost 50 years. But, perhaps corrected me, “Call me Mitch.” For seven days, we got up early and met for Legacy more importantly, he leaves a void in the He never put on any airs. He was down breakfast, before I reported on the event; lives of his son, Jim, and his daughter, Lynn, to earth, accessible, genuine and generous. then we ate our way through the daily com- and those who worked with him at Kostuch Every Christmas, in those early days, he and petitions, and, come evening, we would Media Ltd. and TrainCan Inc. his wife, June — a wonderful and warm dine at some of the city’s top restaurants. As It’s hard to believe I met Mitch 34 years woman, who could make anyone feel at anyone who has travelled with him knew, ago, next February. There was no Hotelier ease instantly — would open their beauti- it was hard to keep up with him. I’ll never back then, no digital magazines, no Internet, ful home to the Kostuch team. We would forget when, after a late dinner, he turned no social media. It was a much simpler time have wonderful Christmas gatherings, with to me and said, ‘‘Let’s meet later tomorrow for both the publishing and the hospitality Champagne flowing alongside June’s home- morning,’’ in his authoritarian voice. I was industries. As a neophyte journalist, I hun- made traditional Christmas dishes. Later, so relieved that I could finally sleep in later. gered to get into the publishing industry, but as the company grew, and with the passing Little did I realize late for him meant 8:15 with little practical experience it was hard to of June in 2003, Mitch began to host those a.m. instead of 8 a.m. It’s a story that, to this gain a foothold. So I answered a newspaper gatherings at the Donalda Club, one of the day, brings a smile to my face. It proved how ad for a receptionist at a publishing com- city’s most prestigious golf and country tireless he was in his support of the industry, pany, not realizing its magazine served the clubs, where he was a founding member. attending events, meeting with chefs, lending

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 5 TRIBUTE

Mitch with Tony Pollard, president When the SkyDome opened in Toronto Throughout his celebrated career, of the Hotel Association of Canada, in 1989, F&H was there, taking Mitch was a big supporter of on a trip to China. The Great Wall of advertisers and staff on a personalized Canada’s culinary teams. Here he poses China is behind them tour of the stadium with the Canadian Culinary Team

his ear. He was so passionate about foodser- battle with Canadian Hotel & Restaurant — duce me to Haywood, the author. vice and hospitality, and he inculcated that a Maclean-Hunter publication that existed Mitch was ahead of his time. Years love in the KML and TrainCan teams. for 75 years and was our top competitor in before the fascination with cookbooks Of course, Mitch was also a brilliant jour- publishing — Mitch surprised us all and took hold, he published The Canadian nalist. He began his career at the Toronto purchased the magazine, eventually folding Menu Manual, a book authored by chef Star where he was a cub reporter working it into F&H magazine. Along the way, he John Schmied and some of the country’s the City beat. But his first real break came always quipped to his wife that she should leading chefs competing at the Culinary at Southam Business Press, where he spent consider herself lucky that he bought a food Olympics. It was one of my first editing 17 years working his way through vari- magazine and not a plumbing one. projects as assistant editor. ous jobs, beginning in editorial with Heavy As a true entrepreneur nothing made From the beginning, Mitch realized the Construction News, then moving to sales Mitch happier than launching new busi- power of partnerships. He worked actively where he eventually became a “space cadet” nesses and expanding our offerings. In 1989, with the Canadian Foodservices Executives (as he always liked to remind us), then pub- Kostuch Publications was asked to bid on Association, precursor to today’s Canadian lisher, and eventually VP. In 1970, he threw producing Ontario InnKeeper, a regional Association of Foodservice Professionals. it all away to return to school, where he publication covering the Ontario hotel Together they started the Top Management became the first mature student to gradu- industry. We lost the bid but, under then Night, an event that continues to this ate from a Canadian university without an publisher Lorol Cullen, we decided to start day, every February. He also published undergraduate degree. our own hotel industry magazine, and so supplements on leading Canadian compa- Mitch was always charting new paths. Hotelier was born (this year it celebrates its nies such as Canadian Pacific Hotels and After graduating from York University in 25th anniversary). Four Seasons Hotels. And, along the way, 1972 with an MBA, he was hired as a consul- During those early days of his tenure as he became involved in Cuisine Canada, tant at the CRA, now Restaurants Canada. owner of the magazines, Mitch created many now Taste Canada. More recently, he was He became very familiar with the CRA mag- industry firsts: the “Hospitality 100” (precur- instrumental in partnering with Chicago- azine, the association’s mouthpiece, and to sor to today’s “Top 100 Report”); and “The based Technomic and Lyon, France-based everyone’s surprise, he eventually purchased Fact File,” a compendium of stats compiled CHD Expert, understanding that together it, beginning a new chapter in his already in association with the University of Guelph we are stronger. illustrious career. He liked to tell the story and Prof. Michael Haywood (now a member He carried his love of news with him as that after he bought the magazine, Marketing of the Hotelier Advisory Board). Those were we launched the “What’s On! Report” in magazine featured an article claiming he had two of the projects I initially worked on in 1998, precursor to today’s “Newsblast.” It bought the fourth-ranking magazine in a my early days. I recall driving with Mitch to became his baby, and he worked tirelessly two-publication field. But he didn’t let that the University of Guelph so he could famil- to source industry news and write as many hold him back. In fact, in 1995, after a heated iarize me with the subject matter and intro- stories as possible.

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Mitch and his family pose in front In 1996, Kostuch Publications held Throughout their 46-year marriage, of the Donalda Club, where he was its Pinnacle Award luncheon on the June and Mitch were fortunate to travel a founding member. (clockwise, from left) basketball court at the SkyDome the world. Here they pose in Egypt Mitch; Jim, son; Dave Woodfine, son-in-law; Christine Kostuch, daughter-in-law; Lynn, daughter; June, wife; and Minnie Lulchak, mother-in-law

And, when technology entered our lives in the office — he liked their energy, their commending the sales team as they hit or in a big way with the advent of the Internet optimism and their potential. And, along the exceeded budget targets. in 1995, Mitch was one of the first Canadian way, he was a mentor to many, including me. He was always at the centre of fun. For publishers to lead the way by creating food- From the early days, he saw something in many years at Halloween, we hosted pump- serviceworld.com, nudging the rest of the me that he nurtured, and he gave me endless kin-carving parties for staff, and not only team to jump on the bandwagon. Where opportunities to grow. I remember at one of would he buy the pumpkins but he would others would pontificate and speculate about my first strategy meetings with the company, also judge the results and reward the best the lasting impact of new trends, Mitch a few months after starting at F&H, how in efforts. A few years ago, after hearing about would jump into the fray, not concerned awe of him I was, quickly realizing he was a a restaurant operator who had gifted her about failure but rather excited about the brilliant man I could learn so much from. employees with money to dine at competing new challenges and opportunities. So I stuck around for a long time, because restaurants and then report back on their I recall travelling to the International he gave me endless opportunities to grow findings, he decided to do the same with Hotel & Motel Show in New York in 1996, and to evolve. He was my biggest supporter, our staff. It was a way to involve them and where along with my team of editors, we allowing me to do whatever was important keep them interested. And one year, we even reported live from the show floor on the for the magazine and the industry. Whenever hosted a mock wedding for our then pub- new products introduced at the event. It was we attended events together, he would quip lisher Lorol Cullen, who had surprised us all yet another industry first. Mitch recognized that I was his boss. by eloping. While most owners might have trends before many even realized they were When I celebrated my 25th anniversary begrudged such frivolity, he welcomed it as a trends. And even when we, as his team, with the company, he gifted me with an way to build team spirit. would sometimes be reticent, he would be incredible trip to Umberto Menghi’s cook- Mitch was a true humanitarian. He was there to push us and nudge us into new ing school in Tuscany, Italy, and he did it always giving of his time, ideas and money. areas, recognizing it would force us to stretch before an audience of 500 industry execu- One of the charities that was especially our muscles in new directions. tives at the Pinnacle Awards. It remains one close to his heart was Friends of We Care. Mitch was a people person. When it came of the highlights of my career. Last year, he He was instrumental in its growth over the to employees, he let them learn through once again surprised me at the Pinnacle years, and he would educate people about its mistakes. He believed that the more you gave Awards by presenting me with a Lifetime importance, always urging staff to visit the them to do, the faster they would learn to Achievement Award, renaming the award in camps during “Camp Days” in the summer. do it and the better they would be. He regu- my honour (see this year’s Pinnacle Award One of the things I will miss most about larly popped in on employees to chat with Lifetime Achievement Award winner pro- Mitch is the chats we had on an almost daily them, to water their plants and to talk about file in Hotelier). He was always ready for a basis — bouncing ideas for new initiatives the day’s headlines. He valued the young; good celebration — whether it was employ- off of him or letting him know what I was he was always excited about having interns ees’ birthdays, milestone achievements or planning for the days ahead. He was always

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 7 TRIBUTE

Friends of We Care was one of Last Christmas, the KML team gathered Mitch was always the proud and doting Mitch’s favourite charities. Here Mitch at The Westin Prince to pose for a “granddad.” Here he poses with his poses with members of the KML team, Christmas shot. It was used for the three grandchildren, Kristen, Matthew and (l to r) Jackie Sloat-Spencer, assistant editorial page of the magazines Jessica (Jim and Christine’s children) editor; Brianne Binelli, managing editor; Jim Kostuch; and Maya Tchernina, web communications specialist

THE INDUSTRY SPEAKS excited by those new ideas, so much Centennial College’s new culinary Within hours of the passing of Mitch Kostuch, that he could hardly contain his building with his son, Jim; he made president and group publisher of Toronto’s Kostuch enthusiasm. a donation to Taste Canada; and he Media, Ltd., there was an outpouring of affection Nothing made him happier than attended the opening of Little Fin from many in the foodservice and hospitality new initiatives, because he was with me (the latest restaurant in industry. Here’s a sampling: an ideas man. When we moved to the Chase Hospitality Group, and our current address, at 23 Lesmill this year’s Pinnacle Award winner “Mitch was a quiet leader: thoughtful and reflective, generous with his time and his ideas.... He was a contributor and a mentor Rd., he built a test kitchen on our in the Independent Restaurateur for many and always a voice of reason. His legacy will be with us premises. It had always been one of the Year category. See story on p. always. Thank you, Mitch. — BARB SHOPLAND, CONSULTANT of his dreams, and he thought it 38). Even though I knew he wasn’t would complement the magazine as feeling particularly well, it didn’t “He will be truly missed. A great man. Kind. He always made time it would allow us to test recipes for surprise me that Mitch showed up for the young culinarians. He was a great supporter to me while I our monthly food column; he also that afternoon. He always wanted to struggled to find my path in my journey as a chef.” realized that industry suppliers and be in the know about the latest and — STEFAN CZAPALAY, CHEF chefs could use it, too. greatest happenings, and he contin-

“Mitch was a leader, not just in the publishing world, but also in the In 1996, he saw the growing need ued to ask probing questions right culinary and hospitality world. He is missed. for increased food-safety training to the very end, sharing in great — GURTH PRETTY, AUTHOR and vigilance in the kitchen and food and good conversation. signed a deal with the NRA to dis- While he is no longer physically “[Mitch’s] contribution to the hospitality business was enormous. tribute materials from its ServSafe with us, he is woven into the fab- The industry has truly lost one of the ‘good guys.’ program in Canada. That fuelled the ric of our lives and the life of this — JAY GOULD, NEW YORK FRIES & SOUTH ST. BURGER eventual founding and development industry. His memory, his legacy “He was a warm man who I just naturally respected.” of TrainCan Inc., in 2001, a food- and his indelible spirit will guide — JAMIE KENNEDY, CHEF safety training company he entrusted us to the next chapter at this com- to his son, Jim. During the past 13 pany. On behalf of the entire KML “Mitch was a true industry icon who touched so many people in a years, TrainCan has certified more and TrainCan teams, and the indus- positive way. He will be missed but fondly remembered.” than 160,000 foodservice employees. tries he loved so dearly, thank you — JACQUES SEGUIN, GARLAND COMMERCIAL RANGES Right to the end, he continued to Mitch, for all you have done and all “Mitch was a friend, a great supporter and a mentor through many do the things that brought him the that you were. We are richer for hav- years, and we all will miss him and his quiet, sage advice.” most pleasure — attending indus- ing known you. We miss you pro- — CHARLES GRIECO, ONTARIO HOSTELRY INSTITUTE AND try events. During his last days, he foundly, but your legacy continues. CANADIAN HOSPITALITY FOUNDATION attended the groundbreaking of Rest in peace.

8 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

FYI MONTHLY NEWS AND UPDATES FOR THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY

PARTNERS PARTNERSHIP IN PASTRY PERK Toronto’s George Brown As part of the new Advanced College partners with French Pâtisserie post-graduate Paris’ Alain Ducasse program between Toronto’s George Education to cultivate Brown College and France’s budding pastry chefs Ecole Nationale Superieure de Pâtisserie, students will spend their BY ROSANNA CAIRA first semester in Canada and their second semester in Europe where they will train with top French chefs his past spring, Anne before moving off-site for an eight- Sado, president of week externship. Students will com- TToronto’s George Brown plete their final semester at George College (GBC), and Lorraine Brown. The partnership will also Trotter (pictured, centre), dean of offer culinary students the oppor- the school’s Centre for Hospitality tunity to study and work in France and Culinary Arts, travelled to France. On their agenda was a stop at France’s Ecole Nationale upon completion of their George Superieure de Pâtisserie (ENSP), chef Alain Ducasse’s (pictured, centre, second from left) pastry school. Brown culinary credential or through The educators were looking to broaden the two schools’ already existing relationship and work out study tours. What’s more, chefs the details of the recently announced post-graduate certificate in Advanced French Pâtisserie. “We have from the French culinary program sent students on many study tours, and through that experience we came to respect what students could will visit George Brown to deliver do there,” Trotter told F&H in mid-October as the school officially launched the new program. courses and events. The idea to expand GBC’s relationship with ENSP had been percolating. In fact, GBC had already created a two-week study tour with ENSP. So, during the spring trip, the two educators were invited to Paris to meet with Ducasse. “We issued the invitation to chef Ducasse to visit us in Toronto over coffee at Restaurant Le Maurice, and he was delighted to accept,” said Trotter. This past October, the chef and worldwide restaurateur, who has amassed 21 Michelin stars, made the trip to Toronto (see interview with Ducasse on p. 17) and formally announced the new partnership. “We have found an educational partner that shares our vision of top-quality learning and output and international training,” said Ducasse. The new program will launch next spring. Twenty-four culinary students attending GBC will

gain hands-on pastry training in France through the three-semester Advanced French Pâtisserie PHOTOS: LUC OLIVIER [CULINARY CASTLE] BRILYNN FERGUSON [ALL OTHER PHOTOS] post-graduate program. Offered jointly with Alain Ducasse Education’s celebrated pastry and bakery school, ENSP, the program will cover topics such as chocolate confection, savoury baking, regional cheeses and artisanal breads. It’s designed to prepare students for an increasingly global workplace by offering an interna- tional education and hands-on experience. “It’s a convergence of opportunities in the marketplace,” explained Trotter. “This is a win-win situation. ENSP will benefit from the opportunity to teach our highly motivated and skilled students. After their studies and placements in France, the students will return to George Brown with much stronger skills, a richer understanding of local and sustainable ways of working and the international experience much sought after by industry.”

CULINARY CASTLE The Ecole Nationale Superieure de Pâtisserie in Yssingeaux, France, which is home to a special partnership with Toronto’s George Brown College, is an institution of international renown. School presidents Yves Thuriès and Alain Ducasse’s renovated culinary castle is the stomping ground for more than 1,550 students who use eight pastry labs and one amphitheatre where 10 perma- nent trainers and 100 professional speakers share their knowledge. “By focusing on innovation and modernity, our [teachers are] actively involved in the evolution of art,” reads the presidents’ letter.

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PHOTOS: LUC OLIVIER [CULINARY CASTLE] BRILYNN FERGUSON [ALL OTHER PHOTOS] K Y M C CY MY CM CMY FYI

COMING SCENE EVENTS STEALERS

JAN. 27- 29: International The Canadian restaurant commu- Production & Processing nity may not receive the accolades Expo, Georgia World it deserves on an international Congress Center, Atlanta. level, but recent openings across Tel: 678-514-1977; email: the country have made an impres- [email protected]; sion, as travel magazine EnRoute website: ippexpo.org recently presented its annual list of Canada’s Best New Restaurants. JAN. 29 - FEB. 1: Guelph Organic Conference, The top 10 winners are Wolf in Guelph University Centre, the Fog (Tofino, B.C.); Farmer’s Guelph, Ont. Tel: 705-444- Apprentice (); Le Vin 0923; email: organix@ Papillon (Montreal); Rge Rd auracom.com; website: (Edmonton); Mallard Cottage guelphorganicconf.ca (St. John’s, N.L.); Bar Buca (Toronto); The Chase (Toronto); JAN. 30: Friends of We Care Ayden Kitchen & Bar (Saskatoon); Calgary Bowling Challenge, Légende (Quebec City); and Edna Century Casino, 1010 42nd (Halifax). Ayden Kitchen & Bar, Street, Calgary. Email: sph- the new concept by Top Chef [email protected]; website: friendsofwecare.org Canada winner Dale MacKay, also took home the 2014 People’s Wolf in the Fog chicken platter FEB. 12: CAFP Top Choice Award. Management Night Gala & Fundraiser, The International POURING IT ON THICK Centre, Mississauga, Ont. Tel: 416-422-3431; Jeff Taylor (pictured), a bartender at Ottawa’s D’Arcy McGee’s, email: [email protected]; recently won a trip by performing an impressive rendition of website: cafp.com/toronto traditional Irish hospitality during Prime Pubs’ annual Draught MARCH 1- 3: Restaurants Master competition. Contestants gathered at Fionn MacCool’s Canada Show, Direct Energy in Brampton, Ont. to entertain the crowd by telling a traditional Centre, Toronto. Tel: 800- Irish tale, while pouring a pint of Guinness. “Bartending is a real 387-5649; email: event@ art, and when it is done expertly the guest experience is truly restaurantscanada.org; memorable,” said Nathan Cameron, national beverage manager website: restaurantshow.ca of the Vaughan, Ont.-based Cara Operations Ltd., parent com- pany of Prime Pubs. “We host the annual Prime Pubs Draught Master competition to keep our bartenders at the top of their FOR MORE game. And with a four-day, educational trip to Ireland, including EVENTS, a day at St. James Gate Brewery and $2,000 in spending money VISIT as the prize, it is our way of rewarding our top bartender for his http://bit.ly/FHevents hard work and dedication.” CULINARY DISCOVERY The founder of Zomato, an international restaurant-discovery app and website, has zeroed in on the Greater Toronto Area as his company’s first North American outpost. Zomato users can view menus, photos and choose local establishments based on their geo-coordinates. The app also offers a social network where users can write reviews and share recommendations. “We’re proud to include Toronto in our growing list of world-class cities. It boasts a vibrant restaurant industry, and Canada is a hugely promising market for us. We’ve earmarked US$10 mil- lion for our expansion in Canada and are committed to making Zomato the go-to restaurant discovery service in the country. Canada is truly a great starting point for us before we think of getting into the United States,” said Deepinder Goyal, founder and CEO of Zomato. The company plans to expand to Vancouver, Montreal, Ottawa and Calgary next.

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A TASTE were presented. The winners were: The Stop, by IN BRIEF PEOPLE Nick Saul and Andrea Curtis (Culinary Narrative Commercial foodservice Richard E. Allison OF SUCCESS – English); Les Saveurs Gastronomiques de la sales are expected to reach is the new president Bière, by David Lévesque Gendron and Martin $59.8 billion in 2015, of Domino’s Pizza’s Thibault (Culinary Narrative – French); The Flavour Principle, by Lucy Waverman and Beppi according to Toronto- International division. Crosariol (General Cookbooks – English); Dans based Restaurants During the past three la Cuisine de Danny St. Pierre, by Danny St. Canada’s annual Industry years, Allison has spear- Pierre (General Cookbooks – French); Toronto Forecast. Contract- headed the addition of Star Cookbook, by Jennifer Bain (Regional/ caterers and Western nearly 1,800 international Cultural Cookbooks); Gastro Grilling, by Ted Canadian markets are Domino’s locations in 10 Reader (Single-Subject Cookbooks – English); expected to lead the new countries. He suc- Les Règles d’or des Épices, by Philippe and Ethné De Vienne (Single-Subject Cookbooks growth...Montreal-based ceeds Michael T. Lawton, How the written word is received may be chang- – French); Michel Lambert (Hall of Fame MTY Food Group Inc. is current CFO, who ran ing, but it was clear at the recent Taste Canada Award); and Mona Brun (Hall of Fame expanding its roster of the division prior to food writing awards, that books — such as the Posthumous Award). quick-service concepts Allison...Richard Linley 58 submissions at this year’s event — continue As the awards’ presentation ended, attendees by purchasing the assets has taken the helm as the to feed innovation. took a moment to honour The Cookbook Store. of a group of companies president of the Vineland The 17th annual awards united old friends The Toronto gem, which closed recently, has — which owns Manchu Station, Ont.-based Wine and new colleagues at Toronto’s Arcadian Court been credited with elevating the quality of cook- for an evening hosted by celebrated TV person- books since opening in 1983. Wok, Wasabi Grill & Council of Ontario, repre- ality Ricardo Larrivée (pictured, between Alison Next year the awards’ ceremony will have Noodle and SenseAsian senting VQA wines from Fryer and Ted Reader), who extolled the virtues two new additions with a new Best Food Blog — for $7.9 million. The Ontario across the prov- of cookbook authors and cooks. “We bring accolade and new Taste Canada national chair, deal will add 133 units to ince. Linley previously people together around the table,” said the chef. Donna Dooher, chef, restaurateur and community MTY’s stable...Following served as senior director, “Every recipe we create is forging this tradition.” activist. Submissions for the 2015 Taste Canada a mandate to serve beef Government Affairs, And, tradition continued as nine awards Awards open Jan. 1. — Brianne Binelli raised without the use at Toronto’s Canadian of hormones or steroids, Beverage Association. RESTO and eggs from chickens BUZZ fed only a vegetarian SUPPLYSIDE Little Fin is the latest concept diet, Vancouver-based High Liner Foods from Toronto’s Chase Hospitality, A&W Food Services of Incorporated, based offering a variety of seafood to go Canada Inc. now serves in Lunenburg, N.S., from a small shop at 4 Temperance chicken raised without acquired the business St. in downtown Toronto (adjacent the use of antibiotics... of Atlantic Trading to The Chase restaurant). Burgers Second Cup acquired Company, LLC, a Miami- 17 of its franchised based importer of fro- include big eye tuna served on Kuu Bistro a black sesame or gluten-free cafés in Toronto. zen Atlantic salmon... bun ($15) and seafood rolls such as crispy rock shrimp with sweet chili and scallion atop Franchisees Debbie and Kitchener, Ont.’s Dare house-baked sesame challah ($10). Sides include sweet potato lobster chowder ($6.50) and Bob Riche have joined Foods Limited now chili-spiced broccoli ($4.50)...Saint-Houblon is a new drinking spot in Montreal, which the Mississauga, Ont.- offers Simple Pleasures specializes in artisanal beers from Quebec. Its bar menu is stocked with casual fare such as based head-office team Digestive and Social Tea sticky ribs slathered in spicy soft-tofu dressing ($10); it also offers dinner options such as as its new director of cookies in a new por- mac and cheese with braised lamb in IPA beer, dried apricot and sharp cheddar ($15)...Don Operations, Corporate tion pack...Chris Butchko Cherry’s Sports Grill has landed in the idyllic Prestige Rocky Mountain Resort in Cafés, and GM, Corpo- is now in charge of rate Cafés, respectively; marketing at Louisville, Cranbrook, B.C. as part of plans to open new locations in hotels and inns across the country. PHOTO: ALEXANDRA DAVIES [TASTE OF SUCCESS] Its menu includes meaty classics such as the Beer Can Chicken Platter served with garlic they’ll oversee the 17 Ky.-based Winston mashed potatoes, beer gravy and seasonal vegetables ($17.99)...Kuu Bistro is a funky new units as well as other Industries. Butchko was Izakaya in the Montreal restaurant scene. Specialties include grilled oysters, miso black company-owned loca- previously eMarketing cod and fried wonton cheese as well as various sushi rolls...C Restaurant and Raincity tions...Canadian Women manager...Mississauga, Grill have closed and been sold to the Delta, B.C.-based Viaggio Hospitality Group Inc. In Food, a networking Ont.’s Gay Lea Foods ...Toronto’s Linda Modern Thai now serves brunch. The Shops at Don Mills restaurant group that encourages Co-operative Limited offers Thai renditions on classic breakfast options. entrepreneurship in the has inked a deal to foodservice and beverage acquire Hewitt’s Dairy, a Opening a new restaurant? Let us in on the buzz. Send a high-res image, menu and industry, recently held Hagersville, Ont.-based background information about the new establishment to [email protected]. its first event in Toronto. family run processor.

14 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM PHOTO: ALEXANDRA DAVIES [TASTE OF SUCCESS] PHOTOS: PIERRE MONETTA, MIKAEL VOJINOVIC [TOP, RIGHT] IN CONVERSATION

STAR PERFORMER DURING A FOUR-DAY WHIRLWIND TOUR OF TORONTO, CHEF ALAIN DUCASSE MET WITH F&H TO SHARE INSIGHTS INTO WHAT MAKES A MICHELIN-STAR CHEF

BY ROSANNA CAIRA

hen you’re the Michelin gives your restaurants stars, chef/owner of that’s wonderful, and if the media 22 restaurants likes your restaurant, that’s great, but around the world the initial goal of any restaurant is to that have gar- please your customers.” Wnered a total of 21 Michelin stars, it The highly acclaimed chef, would be easy to believe the press reputed to be one of the world’s and focus on the accolades. But talk best toques, with his stable of to Alain Ducasse, and he’ll tell you restaurants, as well as inns and a chefs should not open restaurants to collection of cookbooks, was in achieve Michelin stars, they should Toronto this fall to announce the open them to please their customers. launch of a new pastry exchange “When a restaurant is full, you know initiative with George Brown

PHOTOS: PIERRE MONETTA, MIKAEL VOJINOVIC [TOP, RIGHT] MIKAEL VOJINOVIC [TOP, PHOTOS: PIERRE MONETTA, you have a successful restaurant. If College (see story on p. 10).

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 17 IN CONVERSATION

you arrive at perfection. That’s my Italy, the U.K., Japan, China, Russia objective; that’s my vision. That’s and the Middle East, there are also what’s needed to access gastronomy. outposts closer to home, in New That’s what rules my philosophy.” York and Las Vegas. “It’s important Ducasse believes focus is necessary to have a global vision,” says Ducasse, for success at any level, whether it’s explaining that’s what fuelled his a bistro, a takeout eatery or a haute- North American expansion. And, cuisine restaurant — “the same prep- though some might question why aration is necessary even if you’re a Parisian chef would venture to serving a sandwich — what bread are open a restaurant in Vegas, Ducasse you going to use, what are you going is quick to answer. “I was the first to put in the sandwich, which butter, European chef to open in Las Vegas.” which seasoning? It requires great As for Canada, for the moment, attention,” he says. Ducasse has no plans to open a loca- Interestingly, as the world tion in Toronto, where he dined at becomes smaller, the trends impact- some of the city’s best restaurants ing North American cuisine aren’t during his recent trip. “There’s too

vastly different from those of France. much competition here,” he quips. PHOTOS: PIERRE MONETTA, BRILYNN FERGUSON [BOOK SIGNINGS] “We’re interested in consuming less Plus, he says, he still has other loca- meat protein and using more prod- tions to open first, including Beijing ucts from the sea,” says Ducasse, with and Macau, China as well as another “less fat, less salt and less sugar as location in Paris. For Ducasse, achieving the pin- well as more local products.” He’s In terms of what makes a nacle of success has been a journey even coined the word, “glocal” to Michelin-star chef, it’s simple, says in balancing creativity with technical describe his philosophy of having a Ducasse: “You have to work more, kitchen skills. Having worked under global vision with a local focus. you have to work faster, and you culinary greats such as Roger Vergé Still, though trends aren’t that have to work better. It’s about being and Alain Chapel has given him vastly different across the pond, determined and having a strong more than encyclopedic knowledge, Ducasse believes there are differ- will and a strong vision with it’s taught him life skills. “I learned ences in how Europeans and North regard to your goals and the professionalism and leadership from Americans approach food. “In necessary values.” l Roger Vergé; with Alain Chapel Europe, we pay more attention to (French master chef), I learned gastronomy. It’s part of our his- about precision and discipline as tory. In Paris, for example, we have well as modern cuisine,” says the a number of fine-dining restau- toque. These days, he’s transferring rants. That’s our specialty. When that knowledge to his global brigade Americans come to Paris, they accept of chefs. He travels to oversee his paying $300 to $400 per person for restaurants but is quick to admit the food and wines.” empire runs successfully because he Ducasse recently made global has a good team. headlines by eliminating meat from But, at the root of his prosperity the menu at his newest restaurant, is a food philosophy, which focuses La Plaza Athénée in Paris. “I’m a on “great ingredients, locally sourced socially conscious chef, but I also and prepared based on the seasonal- wanted to demonstrate that haute ity — products prepared with perfec- cuisine can still be accomplished tion,” he states emphatically, explain- without meat. It’s a lot more work ing “they need to work harmoni- to create haute cuisine with limited ously, and [you need] to know which products, but it can be done, and I wines go with which dishes. At the dared to do it.” end of the day,” he says, “there has to Of course, these days North be a great deal of discipline, and [you Americans don’t have to travel that have to be] demanding of yourself far to delight in Ducasse’s cuisine. through the repetition of skills until In addition to restaurants in France, PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM

18 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FROM THE DESK OF ROBERT CARTER

REDEFINING A SEGMENT The casual-dining market is morphing, as more premium-casual restaurants compete within the traditional full-service segment

he casual-dining market in Canada is experiencing a transformation. TCompetition among the 21,359 casu- al-dining restaurants, which provide table service, wine lists and daily chef menu spe- cials, is increasing.

PHOTOS: PIERRE MONETTA, BRILYNN FERGUSON [BOOK SIGNINGS] In 2013, Canadians made more than grown and is redefining casual-dining. In many of the premium-casual chains are 667-million visits to casual-dining res- fact, findings from NPD’s recent report, based in Western Canada and have had taurants, spending more than $11 billion, “Full-Service Dining: What Customers great success bringing their unique con- according to NPD’s latest CREST market Want,” show the premium-casual segment cepts across Canada. insights. But this segment is experiencing is the future of casual-dining in Canada. challenges with customer traffic declining by Compared to regular casual-dining PREMIUM-CASUAL LEARNINGS an average of 1.0 per cent a year since 2008 restaurants, premium-casual operators So what makes a premium-casual restau- and with 376 unit closures last year. Much of offer a higher overall dining experience rant successful? It’s the food. According to this is due to the emerging fast-casual seg- with greater focus on customer service, the aforementioned NPD full-service res- ment and the influx of customers frequent- an upscale atmosphere and quality food, taurant report, consumers overwhelmingly ing quick-service restaurants. As a result, which garners an average spend of $6.25 cite quality food as the number-1 motiva- casual-dining operators are reassessing their more per person. In 2013, Canadians spent tion for choosing a premium-casual restau- strategic positioning to attract customers in more than $1.4 billion at premium-casual rant. It’s also the number-1 factor influenc- an increasingly competitive market. restaurants such as The Keg, Milestones, ing diner satisfaction, which is critical as 73 Moxie’s, Joey, and per cent of customers will not return if they THE NEW FACE OF CASUAL-DINING . Meanwhile, smaller, regional pre- don’t have a good experience. Other posi- Although the casual-dining segment has mium-casual chains, including Browns tive associations with premium-casual res- struggled in the past five years, the emerg- Socialhouse and Turtle Jack’s, are experi- taurants include menu innovation, indul- ing premium-casual sub-segment has encing aggressive expansion. Interestingly, gent options, a variety of flavoured coffees and teas and knowledgeable, friendly staff Among consumers reporting a Among consumers reporting an who make recommendations.

Poor Excellent/Very Good THE FUTURE OF PREMIUM-CASUAL overall experience... overall experience... According to NPD’s forecast report “2020 Vision,” the premium casual-dining seg- ment in Canada is expected to grow cus- % % tomer traffic by 2.0 per cent leading to 73 53 2020, outpacing overall market perfor- mance, which is expected to grow by 1.0 per cent. diners are responding to this will not return to will return to new sub-segment, and they expect more premium-casual restaurants premium-casual restaurants from traditional casual-dining. l

Robert Carter is executive director, Foodservice Canada, with the NPD Group Inc. He can be reached at [email protected] for questions regarding the latest trends and their impact on the foodservice business. PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 19 FOOD FILE

BITES& BOWLS CANADIANS ARE WARMING UP TO SOUPS AND SANDWICHES, WHICH OFFER CONVENIENCE, QUALITY INGREDIENTS AND VALUE BY LIZ CAMPBELL PHOTO: KRISTA COMEAU [THIS PAGE] PHOTO: KRISTA

20 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM When the Earl of Sandwich invented his namesake, he didn’t want to stop gambling to dine, so he simply placed a slab of meat between two slices of bread. With no condiments or other fillings, that first sandwich bore little resemblance to its modern incarna- A STEP ABOVE The southwestern tion, but it had one chicken club panini and carrot ginger soup at Halifax’s Ciboulette strong similarity — (above) are examples of the bold, unique flavours trending in the soup convenience. and sandwich category

The sandwich still meets that basic need ($6.96). And ordinary grilled cheese becomes Schnarch, chef/owner of Café Pavé in Old for convenience, but consumers want more. extraordinary with sun-dried tomatoes, basil Montreal, whose menu offers 22 sandwiches. “Customers want speed and [a good] price, and rosemary aioli ($6.96). “I cross-utilize many of the ingredients, so but they also want taste, and they want to feel “It’s not necessary to re-invent the wheel,” I can customize and create interesting com- good about what they eat,” says Brady Muller, asserts Anthony Rose, chef/owner of Rose & binations.” Thus, a simple chicken sandwich chef/owner of Ciboulette in Halifax. “Many Sons in Toronto. “Good simple classics are can take on enormous flavour variations, of our customers are regulars, so they don’t the best.” Nonetheless, his PLB Special Melt from the Tokyo with English cucumber, want the same old, same old, every day.” Breakfast sandwich — bacon, sausage, pickle, tomato and kamikaze sauce (slightly spicy Making the same old different is why fried egg and fried onions topped with cherry mayo with candied ginger) to the Tunis with the classic chicken club is the most popu- jam on buttery caraway rye ($13) — is not sun-dried tomato, goat cheese, spinach with lar sandwich at Ciboulette; there it comes your classic sandwich. roasted garlic and creamy pesto ($10.99 each panini-style with chicken, bacon, tomato, “It’s not trendy to have a big menu, but with soup/salad and beverage). mozzarella, avocado and chipotle mayonnaise I like the idea of options,” says Matthew “These days it’s all about customization,” PHOTO: KRISTA COMEAU [THIS PAGE] PHOTO: KRISTA

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 21

FOOD FILE

KICK IT UP A NOTCH Oakville, Ont.-based Tim Hortons hones in on a trend towards pre- mium ingredients with its Chipotle Steak and Cheese Panini affirms Emma Hyatt, Foodservice specialist at the NPD Group Inc. in Toronto. “Fast- casual is still an emerging segment, but its major source of growth is high quality, cus- INGREDIENT OF THE MONTH: COCONUT MILK tomizable, unique ingredients not normally Shunned by some for years because of its found in fast food.” saturated fat, coconuts have become the Tim Hortons has taken its menu to the darling of the foodie world, joining the ranks of next level by introducing steak, an item not superfoods. International launches of coconut normally associated with QSR. “We have water products have quintupled since 2008, seen a trend to more higher-end ingre- according to international research firm Mintel, dients and bolder flavours,” says Michelle and along with the water, the rest of the coco- Robichaud, manager, Public Relations at the nut is enjoying new acceptance. In particular, Oakville, Ont.-based chain. “Our guests are coconut milk is proving to be a big plus on really responding to our new Chipotle Steak menus. While fresh coconut milk is difficult to and Cheese Panini, made with 100-per-cent source, it’s readily available in tins and can be reconstituted from desiccated coconut Canadian beef ($5.29).” and hot water. Lactose-free, it’s a useful milk NPD’s Hyatt calls it premiumization. substitute in cream soups. Life’s Good Soups, “Fast-food restaurants are coming out with a retailer at the Farmer’s Market in Halifax, better quality, tastier, more inspiring ingre- uses coconut milk to add Thai flavour to gin- dients,” she says. “Consumers are resisting gery sweet potato green bean soup. At Piping spending at full-service but spending more Kettle Soup Co., in London, Ont., a rich lentil in QSR for higher quality, higher-spec items. soup gets an exotic twist from a dash of curry Some chains constantly launch limited-time and coconut milk ($2.50 to $8.95). And, in offerings bringing in fun new, interesting Halifax, Ciboulette’s most popular soup, carrot lines, which may become permanent.” ginger, becomes creamy smooth, and acces- Wendy’s has been creative with limited- sible to vegans with the addition of coconut milk ($6.40 with a biscuit). time offerings such as its Pretzel Pub chicken

FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 23 FOOD FILE

KEEP THEM HAPPY Customers want value, and that’s what they get at Halifax’s Ciboulette with its ham and brie sandwich alongside broccoli and cheddar soup (left) as well as at Toronto’s Ravi Soups, which offers mushroom soup, apricot lentil soup and a curried lamb wrap (below)

sandwich ($6.19), or its pulled-pork and of that value equation. “Our customers like crunchy slaw in a toasted brioche with bar- the fact that our chicken is grilled to order,” becue sauce ($4.99). Even McDonald’s is says Erica Gale, director of Marketing at upscaling with the recent introduction of Richmond Hill, Ont.-based Extreme Pita. crispy shrimp wrapped with vegetables and “They want to know their food is freshly pre- zesty sweet chili sauce ($5.49). pared.” Grilled chicken with tomato, cucum-

While these premium ingredients inevita- ber, mushroom, romaine lettuce, red onion, PHOTO: KRISTA COMEAU [TOP LEFT] bly come with a higher price point, there is green pepper and tzatziki sauce ($7.29 to a market for them. “Consumers are willing $7.99) is the top seller here, but customers to pay for menu items that are made with can request customized premium add-ons quality ingredients, because they can see the such as artichokes and roasted peppers. value they are getting for their money,” says While wrapped sandwiches made inroads Robichaud. during the carb-conscious diet-craze days, Fresh ingredients are an important part according to the NPD’s Hyatt, wraps and

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GETTING TO THE TOP OF IT McDonald’s special sauce was just the beginning. Aioli, salsas, jams and sauces such as chimichurri are spread- ing like wildfire. And today’s chefs are even making their own mustard and ketchup. Here are a few examples of restaurant sandwiches being given an extra zip with a special sauce.

THE LIBERTINE, Calgary: pan-seared sockeye-salmon focaccia, pickled vegetable slaw and baby arugula with house-made lemon ginger aioli ($16)

CIBOULETTE, Halifax: roasted veg- etables, with Muhammara (a purée of walnut, roasted red peppers, garlic, cumin and pomegranate juice) topped with caramelized onions ($6.96)

BISTRO SOFIA, St. John’s, N.L.: dried cured ham, mozzarella cheese and oven-roasted tomato basil sauce on focaccia ($10.45)

THE MEATERY, Vancouver: roasted pork belly, crackling, hot Italian sausage, rocket greens, pesto and artichoke aioli ($10)

Piping Kettle’s Thai vegetable soup RAVI SOUPS, Toronto: pulled pork, pineapple, mango, edamame, corian- pitas are still driving sandwich growth. And cent of sandwiches contained meat. “People der chutney and house-made tamarind Gale knows why wraps are a hit. “You taste are moving back to higher quality protein ketchup ($9.99) the fillings rather than the bread,” she says. but eating less,” says Bett Porta, owner of The owners of Ravi Soups, a Toronto chain The Meatery, where the free-range meats are EXTREME PITA, Canadian chain: opening its fourth location in seven years, local. The restaurant’s top-selling sandwiches grilled chicken, fresh strawberries and can attest to this. The restaurant’s sandwiches are hoisin-braised beef short rib with pickled blueberries, dried cranberries, goat come wrapped in a tortilla; the favourite is a cabbage and guacamole; or pulled pork with cheese, spring mix, romaine and meaty curried lamb with mango, pineapple, chipotle slaw ($10 each). caramelized red onion with creamy edamame, spinach and cilantro ($9.99). But, while sandwich sales have increased balsamic vinaigrette ($7.29 to $7.99) Sandwiches are often very meat-centric, two per cent, according to the NPD Group, so it can be a tough category for vegetarians. CREST, soup has seen a decline of three per Most restaurants offer at least one option, cent annually for the last five years. In the past usually substituting cheese or eggs to provide year, soup was only ordered at about four per crab, Thai basil and crispy shallots (both protein. For example, Tim Hortons offers a cent of foodservice visits. “While some opera- $8.99). “Our regulars come back because grilled-cheese panini ($4.20) and egg salad tors have had great success with interesting the food is healthy. Everything is made from ($3.45). Even The Meatery, a Vancouver res- new flavours, it has not been enough to drive scratch with fresh vegetables and less oil,” says taurant advertising “butcher-to-bun” fare, overall growth,” says Hyatt. Kamal Kandhasamy, executive chef. “And our offers a concession to vegetarians — brie, Nonetheless, soup-centred concepts, such food tastes really good, with strong flavours.” pear and brown-butter sage sauce ($10). as Ravi Soups, are thriving with game-chang- Unique, bolder flavours are popular, and Meat consumption is down, but, accord- ing flavours such as curried apricot and red Ciboulette’s Muller isn’t afraid to experi- ing to the NPD Group, CREST, during the lentil with cilantro, lime crème fraîche and ment. “We’ve even tried kimchi soup,” she year-ending May 2014, more than 81 per crispy shallots; or corn chowder with blue says. Nonetheless, her consistent top seller

26 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

FOOD FILE

is Intense Carrot and Ginger ($6.40 with a upsell in full-service restaurants where it’s The video game-themed restaurant offers biscuit), a soup she describes as “zesty but included in nine per cent of visits, accord- zesty sandwiches such as the Epic Shrimp approachable.” ing to the NPD Group, CREST. But QSR and Crab Sandwich, described as “crispy Jim Phillips, owner of Piping Kettle Soup and fast-casual operators are also benefiting prawns, crab mix, tempura green onion, Co., with two locations in London, Ont., from pairing soup with sandwiches. Piping avocado, shredded lettuce and wasabi mayo hates to admit his top seller is broccoli and Kettle offers a small soup and small sandwich locked in an eternal struggle for superior- cheddar. “I resisted it for a long time; it’s for $5. At Montreal’s Café Pavé, where the ity!” ($13). It’s a new approach to the epic so boring,” he laments. “But our customers sandwich comes with soup, salad or chips, struggle for the appetites of Canadians who see Piping Kettle as their company; of the 50 per cent of guests choose soup; in winter, are searching for convenience, unique ingre- more than 100 soups we’ve offered, most three-quarters choose hearty soups such as dients and great value. l were suggested by them. I finally gave in on vegetable barley. broccoli cheddar; now it’s always one of the Two flavours remain popular among 10 daily soups.” Canadians: tomato and chicken noodle. But regular soups at Piping Kettle also Tim Hortons’ top seller is premium chicken include Indian spiced channa masala soup, noodle soup made with white chicken meat coconut lentil (a jalapeño-laced vegan offer- ($3.30). Rose & Sons’ Rose serves his chicken ing) and turkey chili ($2.50 to $6). Although soup with a matzo ball ($9), and, he laughs, the Piping Kettle offers sandwiches, including “I try to make my tomato soup as close to the ubiquitous pulled pork, soup comprises Campbell’s as possible.” Extreme Pita serves 80 per cent of sales. Phillips explains: “People Campbell’s soups, but, says Gale, the chain is who eat soup, love soup. They’re getting looking at a new soup strategy for 2015. everything in a bowl without a lot of bread; it In the never-ending struggle to attract isn’t as heavy as a sub.” customers, originality is key. Take the EXP Tim Hortons’ Chicken Noodle Soup Soup has also proven to be a valuable Restaurant + Bar in Vancouver as an example.

Newcombe Search Group delivers exceptional people to leading Food is our passion. foodservice manufacturers and operators. People our most valuable asset. With over 30 years of experience, we’re committed to understanding Trust our currency. your challenges and providing you with the top talent you need to achieve operational success in today’s highly competitive market.

Contact us today and let’s chat about your organization’s needs!

David J. Newcombe | www.newcombesearch.com | 416.684.6481 Candidate submissions: [email protected] It’s that wonderful time of year: carols are playing in the malls, the snow is falling in the streets and neighbourhoods are filled with the twinkling lights of the season. And, with that comes the Pinnacle Awards. This year marks the 26th anniversary of Kostuch Media’s celebration of excellence in foodservice and hospitality. It’s time to take pause and recognize the companies that have gone above and beyond, inspiring growth and MARKING innovation, while serving their communities. The pages that follow feature profiles of this year’s five winners. Take a look, be inspired THE SEASON and revel in the success of a thriving industry. — Brianne Binelli Newcombe Search Group delivers exceptional people to leading Food is our passion. foodservice manufacturers and operators. People our most valuable asset. With over 30 years of experience, we’re committed to understanding Trust our currency. your challenges and providing you with the top talent you need to achieve operational success in today’s highly competitive market.

Contact us today and let’s chat about your organization’s needs!

David J. Newcombe | www.newcombesearch.com | 416.684.6481 Candidate submissions: [email protected]

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 29 COMPANY OF THE YEAR – EASTERN CANADA WE THREE KINGS

30 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM AN EXPANDING EMPIRE AND A CULINARY COUP WE THREE KINGS OF INTERNATIONAL PROPORTIONS HAS CEMENTED TORONTO- BASED KING STREET FOOD COMPANY’S PLACE IN CANADA’S CULINARY LANDSCAPE

BY JENNIFER FEBBRARO PHOTOGRAPH BY MARGARET MULLIGAN

ob Gentile is beaming. Standing in the centre of Buca Yorkville in Toronto’s new Four Seasons Residences complex, he breaks for our Rinterview on the first day of what he terms “orientation” for new staff. It’s autumn, a time for new beginnings, and his energy is contagious, as is his enthusiasm for slow- cooked, artfully created, authentic Italian dishes, which have made him the go-to Italian-Canadian chef. “As a kid, I pre- ferred to watch cooking shows rather than cartoons,” laughs Gentile. “But, of course, being the youngest, I was also hanging out [at] my grandparents’ [house] eating food they grew in their backyard.” Food is clearly a passion at King Street Food Company, which has had a banner year. Peter Tsebelis, managing director, and

A REGAL TRIO (left to right) Toronto’s King Street Food Company is led by Gus Giazitzidis, managing partner; Rob Gentile, executive chef and managing partner; and Peter Tsebelis, managing director

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 31 Gus Giazitzidis, managing partner, first met just opened this past fall. The menu focuses explains Tsebelis. at Myth, a Mediterranean-themed restaurant on sustainably sourced seafood and home- A good work ethic is taught from the onset in Toronto that Tsebelis opened while pursu- made seafood salumi (ever tried salmon by Gentile. The executive chef and managing ing an economics degree at the University mortadella?). It seats approximately 70 and partner is a perfectionist when it comes to of Toronto. Eventually the entrepreneurs includes a large patio. schooling his staff. “Employee training is the became business partners and founded King And, the team recently inked a multi-res- most important part of our business,” he says. Street Food Company in 2006. taurant deal with celebrity chef Jamie Oliver, “Ensuring consistent service is the core that In 2008, Tsebelis and Giazitzidis met who hand-picked King Street Food Company requires the most time, training and practise.” Gentile through mutual friends; he was the to debut his rustic Italian restaurant concept It’s about getting everything right from the perfect person to bring Buca to life. “We — which has 35 outlets in the U.K., Australia, kitchen prep lists to the steps of good service, met a few chefs and restaurateurs,” says Ireland, Hong Kong and Singapore — in notes the toque who has six years of experi- Tsebelis. “But no one really impressed us with the North American market. The 200-seat, ence coaching staff. Every step of the food their philosophy of food until we met Rob.” 8,000-sq.-ft. Jamie’s Italian restaurant is set process is honoured, from nurturing rela- Formerly of Mark McEwan’s One and North to open inside Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping tionships with farmers and fish suppliers to 44 restaurants, Gentile was ready to lead the Centre this spring, bringing pizza and pasta employee training. No element is overlooked. culinary vision at Buca with gourmet, rustic made on site daily to a fast-casual setting. “We provide extensive training seminars Italian comfort food. He became executive Details are still being worked out, but every specific to each venue, [its] concept and offer- chef and managing partner in 2009. “Rob unit will vary slightly, blending culinary ideas ing,” says Tsebelis. “Our people are our most understood the importance of the traceability from Oliver and Gentile. valuable asset, so training is ongoing.” The of ingredients,” explains Tsebelis. “The ingre- The celebrity indie chef fell in love with partners also subsidize educational programs. dients need to be traced back to their sources Gentile’s cuisine on a chance dinner at Buca In the past staff attended a symposium on — the farmers and fishermen who supply in the fall of 2011. Gentile was in the kitchen Slow Fish (part of the Slow Food movement), them. The ingredient is paramount.” that night and smiles as he remembers the for example. An educated staff communicates King Street Food Company grew to include special service. “The first thing we did was a better with the customer and can deliver Jacobs and Co. Steakhouse (in 2011) and The salumi spread on a long board,” he says. “We knowledge in a more convincing and per- Saint Tavern (in 2012). “The company didn’t had over 20 types of meat from every animal sonal way, Gentile notes. really represent a ‘type’ of food or even a you could imagine: wild boar, goose, goat, It’s clear the company partners are com- restaurant look but a philosophy towards venison, moose, lamb, horse, bison.” Many of mitted. “Like most people, we ended up in the hospitality,” explains Tsebelis. “Our approach the salumi were hand-made, hand-cured by service industry by accident where it started has always been a guest-first approach. That Gentile who took several educational training as a part-time job,” says Tsebelis. “We grew translates into an overall feeling of comfort tours through Italy. to love it and stayed in this field because of in the food, the service and the environment.” Of course, the dinner didn’t stop there. the creativity it offers. It’s addictive to create The Buca brand did so well that more loca- The menu also included orecchiette with new concepts.” tions followed. Earlier this year, the 38-seat basil-fed snails and an entrée of lamb’s neck But, it’s about more than spreadsheets Bar Buca trattoria was born, serving espresso on a spread of polenta. “After that meal, he and new ideas, and the King Street part- and pastries as early as 7 a.m. and Italian came into the kitchen,” Gentile recalls. “We ners don’t forget to give back to the com- bar food until 1 a.m. Brunch draws lineups were chatting, and [we] really think the same munity that nurtured their success. They on weekends with dishes such as Gentile’s way about food — how to use every part of actively participate in at least two charity version of eggs — the Uova Strapazzate, the animal and not throw anything away and events per month in Toronto, including Bloor which features farm eggs, burrata cheese how to hand-pick every ingredient.” Street Entertains, which benefits the city’s and truffle ($14). That night Oliver tweeted that it was his CANFAR (Canadian Foundation for AIDS “Every neighbourhood in Italy has [its] “favourite meal of the year,” calling Gentile a Research) and The Evergreen Urban Rodeo little restaurant on the corner where they “humble genius.” An empire was born. “We and Barbecue, which supports green and go for their morning coffee and pastry, their could potentially see 10 outlets over the next healthy cities. It also partners with organiza- lunch or dinner and then a glass of wine and five years, but we are taking it one step at tions such as Second Harvest, Community a snack to eat at night,” Gentile says of the a time,” explains Giazitzidis, who adds that Food Centres Canada and The Stop, which inspiration behind Bar Buca. “We discovered locations are being scouted. “To rush it would all provide food to Toronto’s less privileged. Toronto had nothing like it. Restaurants were be a mistake, as we still want to pay the same “It’s just as important to give back as it is focused on the café concept or the bar/res- attention to local ingredients and use local to succeed in business,” says Giazitzidis. But taurant concept, not the entire day’s menu products as much as possible.” perhaps the biggest success of all is that the options.” And, the new concept is already well The deal with Oliver, new restaurant open- entrepreneurs behind the growing empire regarded (like its sister restaurant) with noted ings and a surge in traffic due to positive are living out their childhood dreams. “I was Toronto food critic Joanne Kates — Buca is buzz has spurred a spike in business, with raised by a single mother, and she always told number 1 and Bar Buca is number 10 on the sales rising by 75 per cent between 2013 and me, ‘Whatever you do for a living, make sure writer’s annual list of the best 100 restaurants 2014. “We don’t give out exact sales numbers, you enjoy it, because you’ll be doing it for a in Toronto. but years of a strong work ethos and genu- long time,’” Gentile recalls. “That led me to But, it doesn’t end there, as Buca Yorkville ine love for good food have truly paid off,” cuisine, and I haven’t looked back since.” l

32 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM Pinnacle winners

part of a very special club

Congratulations and thank you for partnering with Ecolab

Company of the Year Western Canada: CACTUS CLUB CAFE, VANCOUVER Independent Restaurant Group: THE CHASE HOSPITALITY GROUP, TORONTO Congratulations to: ALL OTHER AWARD RECIPIENTS

©2014 Ecolab USA Inc. All rights reserved. COMPANY OF THE YEAR – WESTERN CANADA MOVING INLAND CACTUS RESTAURANTS LTD. IS SET TO CONTINUE ITS UPWARD TRAJECTORY AS IT PREPARES TO EXPAND INTO EASTERN CANADA

BY BRIANNE BINELLI PHOTOGRAPH BY VENTURI+KARPA

ho knew a surfing vacation could eventually lead to the birth of a brand, but that was the case for the Vancouver-based Cactus Club Cafe. “I’d never been to Hawaii Wbefore, so I fell in love with it and fell in love with surfing there; it’s been a life-long passion of mine ever since,” says Richard Jaffray, Cactus Restaurants Ltd., president and founder. The 26-year-old company was born just a few years after the trip, and after Jaffray loaded up his ‘74 Dodge Dart and left Calgary to make a new life in Vancouver. TRENDSETTERS Just in his late teens, the budding engineer and part- Vancouver-based Cactus time waiter quit school and headed to Canada’s West Restaurants Ltd.’s Richard Coast to pursue business in 1984, eventually open- Jaffray (left), president and founder with , ing Café Cucamonga in 1986, with co-founder Scott executive chef

34 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM MOVING INLAND

Morison. “It was a little 900-sq.-ft. café that was pretty crazy — it was open quite late at night, serving ice cream, sandwiches and salads.” And, it kept Jaffray near the water to feed his love for surfing. But, the entrepreneur and his partner wanted more. They sold Café Cucamonga for an undisclosed amount in 1988 and started a new venture (Morison left the company in 2004). “The idea of doing Cactus Club was about doing something on a bigger scale where it had more growth opportunity,” explains Jaffray. “My first restaurant ... did great, but if I left the building it was going to be hard to build another one.” It was time for kaizen. The Japanese business term — which translates to “continuous improvement,” is a philosophy followed at Cactus Restaurants Ltd. “Cactus Club has evolved, and it’s not something that’s

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 35 [just] happened — we didn’t just The move east into Ontario decide one year to completely and Saskatchewan is slow and revolutionize the business,” deliberate. “We made a conscious explains the president. “It’s some- decision that we wanted to bring thing we’ve been doing ever since Cactus Club to the Toronto mar- [we opened]. And, that original ket and to expand further in the restaurant in North Vancouver Prairies and Saskatchewan,” says that’s now over 26 years in busi- Jaffray. “[For us] 2014 was not ness is having its best year, so only [about] getting ourselves we’re proud we’ve been able to positioned for this big expansion continually improve.” coming up in two new provinces Today, the 26-unit “casual, but also making sure we main- fine-dining” chain offers house- tained the level of success at these made globally inspired dishes new locations we just opened.” served in a “relaxed, unpre- That success was affirmed tentious” atmosphere. All cor- this year at Vancouver magazine’s porately owned (aside from Annual Restaurant Awards. Rob some joint-venture units with Feenie, executive chef, remem- senior management), each loca- bers it well. “Cactus was rec- tion offers approximately 200 ognized for the seventh year in interior seats and up to 100 a row for Best Casual Chain; patio seats in a 6,500-sq.-ft. trust me it’s not an easy thing to footprint created using an win. But, the one we were real- in-house design team and ly proud of was we beat David external architects. Hawksworth for Best Downtown Grassroots ideas are part of the restaurant for Coal Harbour.” He chain’s DNA, so it makes sense adds: “It is one of the most that it was a founding member of beautiful restaurants. It’s unbe- the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean lievable. And, we as a team, Wise conservation program in worked really hard.” 2005; it was also involved in The brand’s team comprises the city’s Green Table Network, approximately 3,000 employ- which acknowledges foodservice ees, including service director operators who improve their Sebastien Le Goff, 500 chefs and environmental performance 50 Red Seal chefs. The culinary while serving quality food. crew is led by Feenie, who joined The private company does not the chain in 2008 and continues release sales numbers, but 2014 to introduce new techniques and follows a year of great growth. “We recipes to raise expectations. This came off some pretty big open- year, menu innovations included ings in the marketplace in the last the Tuna Sushi Cone with spicy 12 months,” says Jaffray, during a Ocean Wise albacore, hand- morning call from Vancouver in rolled with avocado, cucumber, September. “We opened the Coal pickled ginger, tempura, micro Harbour location downtown cilantro, green onion and a soy on the waterfront at Jack Poole paper wrapper ($5); Ceviche Plaza [in Vancouver]. [And] with Lois Lake steelhead, sus- we opened a flagship suburban tainably harvested prawns, red location in Langley, [B.C.] and onions, Thai basil, mint, cilantro in .” and nuoc cham ($14.50); as well This fall, the company opened as Bengal Chicken Curry with its first Saskatchewan unit garam masala, tomatoes, cream, in downtown Saskatoon. And, cauliflower, almond coconut next year, the concept debuts in basmati rice and naan ($17.75). Ontario with a two-level unit with The Indian dish was a departure a rooftop patio slated to open in from Feenie’s French, Italian and Toronto’s First Canadian Place. Japanese specialties, and it gave

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM the America champion and the involvement in our a chance to learn and teach a new community,” says Jaffray who cooking style. works with staff to create annual Training and development business plans. is ongoing in the Cactus Club Indeed, giving back to the kitchens, and Feenie brings the community has been a part of the culinary brigade together to cook chain’s mandate for years, having outside their regular environ- supported organizations such as ment, too. “I don’t get to be in the Sarah McLachlan School of all the stores at the same time, so Music in Vancouver, the Culinary to be in an environment where Arts Program at Vancouver’s I have all the chefs in the same Templeton Secondary School and room; it’s something we get to Make-A-Wish B.C. & Yukon. do [for them], and it’s a lot of Jaffray got involved with fun,” says the toque who takes Make-A-Wish 14 years ago after his chefs and sous chefs to a local an employee shared her passion school to practise. But, the chefs’ for the organization. This year, commitment runs deeper. “What during the chain’s annual Sweet I love is, on their own social time, Dreams Dessert Month in April, they’re cooking for each other. when $1 from every dessert sale It’s fantastic,” says Feenie. was donated to the cause locally, Quality food is integral to the Cactus aimed to raise $7,500. company fabric, having been And, this year it spent approxi- home to a large contingent of mately $4,000 in gift cards to host Red Seal chefs before Feenie Bon Voyage dinners (or lunches) came aboard. “We were investing for families before they took a in our kitchen partners’ educa- Wish trip. “It’s funny, we can tion and our sous chefs’ educa- send a family to Paris to go up tion, and that’s something that’s The Eiffel Tower, and when we been a part of our culture all get the thank-you photos and along,” says Jaffray, who goes on the thank-you letters, they always to talk about Cactus University include how special they were where management also has a treated at Cactus Club,” says chance to learn, studying various Ross Hetherington, CEO, Make- business topics taught by exter- a-Wish B.C. & Yukon, explain- nal instructors, while working ing how the kids are greeted by towards a “degree.” Meanwhile, name, given high fives, kitchen a mentorship program allows tours and more. young managers to connect with With all that he’s accom- senior management and execu- plished, it’s little surprise the tives for approximately three to Cactus Club’s 50-year-old six months. leader was bestowed with the Perhaps it’s that dedication to Lifetime Achievement Award employee growth that led to the at Vancouver magazine’s 25th brand being named a platinum Annual Restaurant Awards this club member of Canada’s Best past spring. “It was a tremen- Managed Companies in 2014, dous honour, and I was very elat- following seven consecutive years ed,” Jaffray recalls with a laugh. on the iconic list that recognizes He adds: “[But] I’m not done companies with revenues of more yet.” And, as the company con- than $10 million, which dem- tinues its expansion in Toronto, onstrate business performance Calgary and Kelowna, it’s clear the and sustained growth. “This detail-oriented thinker is waiting recognition is a reflection of our to lead the company through the team’s ongoing commitment next big wave, paddling toward to the growth of our business, it slowly, while adjusting to the the development of our people water’s kaizen. l

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM CREATING AN EXPERIENCE Toronto’s Chase Hospitality Group is led by Steven Salm (left), presi- dent; Michael Steh, executive chef; and Michael Kimel, director of New Business Development (not pictured) INDEPENDENT RESTAURATEUR OF THE YEAR

BUILDING AN EMPIRE TORONTO’S CHASE HOSPITALITY GROUP IS REDEFINING HOSPITALITY, CREATING A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE WITH TOP-NOTCH FOOD AND SERVICE BY LAURA PRATT | PHOTOGRAPH BY MARGARET MULLIGAN

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 39 ew restaurants often open with launched the Chase Hospitality Group and an upscale resto with rooftop patio known an obvious focus on food, but, signed a lease for what would become a dou- for its flavour-filled small plates (snow crab, for the Chase Hospitality Group, ble-barreled operation. The focus would be on $27), adventurous entrées (big eye tuna, $42) success means focusing on more fresh fish, an acknowledgment of the healthier and the spirited interaction in which staffers than that; it means honing in on lifestyle it promotes and an answer to the engage patrons. The results have attracted the Nhow a customer feels. absence of quality seafood options in Toronto likes of Jake Gyllenhaal and Isabella Rossellini. With that in mind, before the Toronto restaurants. Wherever possible, the fish would But it’s the “extremely loyal” regulars opening of The Chase in August 2013, the be sustainable. who give the restaurant its success, says Steh. leadership team gathered around a white Chase Hospitality’s initial setting, which “I’m not talking about 10 couples who come board to identify how to “redefine hospital- houses the 132-seat Chase and 83-seat Chase in every week; I’m talking about hundreds ity in North America.” Steven Salm, company Fish & Oyster on Temperance Street in upon hundreds who [eat at] our restaurants president, acknowledges this ambition was Toronto, is a fully restored downtown heri- for lunch and dinner. It’s a lifestyle for them.” “bold,” and wasn’t likely achievable in a year, tage building. It’s a financial district beauty It’s in great part thanks to this allegiance or even five. But he was keen to set a goal that transformed by Gianpiero Pugliese, principal that The Chase’s sales have increased five over-delivered on the fundamental emotions of Audax Architecture in Toronto. It took five per cent since opening (exact sales figures a guest expects from a restaurant experience. months to build The Chase and its main-floor were undisclosed). Salm, a born-and-bred New Yorker, was fellow tenant, The Chase Fish & Oyster, a five- The partners hope this tradition con- managing the Manhattan operations of BLT storey elevator ride below. The latter celebrates tinues at the company’s new 4,500-sq.-ft., Restaurants when Maple Leaf Sports and fresh, seasonal seafood offered in creatively 119-seat Colette Grand Café, which opened Entertainment tapped him to come to Toronto presented hot and cold dishes. A lobster hot at Toronto’s Thompson Hotel in July. The to become a senior F&B executive. He arrived pot features scallops, clams and mussels ($38); design, which was also overseen by Audax in spring 2010 but left the company two a crab-and-avocado roll is served with sweet Architecture, features barrel-vaulted ceilings, years later to take advantage of the “unbeliev- corn and braised leeks ($23). And, as for the hand-painted tiles and the traditional Parisian able expansion” his adopted city was enjoy- featured player, the restaurant serves 40,000 colours of blue, yellow and white. The palatial ing. In December 2012, Salm, in conjunction oysters per month. “We wanted to completely newcomer offers breakfast, brunch, lunch and with Michael Kimel, fellow founding partner redefine oyster bars in the city,” says executive dinner with a focus on French seaside cuisine, Deck Agency Steven Salm Congrats Ad.pdf 1 2014-11-07 2:00 PM and director of New Business Development, chef Michael Steh. Meanwhile, The Chase is alongside a quick-service dine-in bakery and a

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K [method] every time,” says Steh. “It’s that attention to detail that’s so challenging but [also] so rewarding.” Soufflé au Chèvre ($16), Entrecôte and Frites ($38) and Trio de Foie Gras ($34) are Colette’s most WHEN popular dishes. FRESHEN UP [CUSTOMERS] Up next in Chase Hospitality’s pursuit of COME IN, redefined hospitality comes personal service, YOUR MENU “ which embraces the singled-out corporate IT’S SMILES, HUGS AND value to “care for our ladies and gentlemen HANDSHAKES. with empathy and sincerity,” says Salm. For IT’S WELCOMING example, Chase restaurant servers can name PEOPLE INTO all of a dish’s ingredients, identify who took YOUR HOME the photos on the wall, provide a history of RATHER THAN a spirit in a cocktail and name the flowers GREETING arranged in the centrepiece. Also, off-menu SOMEONE dishes are specially prepared, and returning COMING INTO guests will find their favourite drink at the A RESTAURANT table when they arrive. “When these people come in, it’s smiles, hugs and handshakes. TRANS FAT FREE It’s welcoming people into your home rather than greeting someone coming into a restau- rant,” notes Steh. This type of service leadership is nurtured ” at the company. “Finding people to lead, work and inspire is difficult in this city,” says Deck Agency Steven Salm Congrats Ad.pdf 1 2014-11-07 2:00 PM retail counter selling artisanal baked goods. Salm. “So we’re creating our own farm team.” It’s been a busy year for the Chase That’s facilitated through the Chase Elite Hospitality team, who recently opened the Program, which plucks “high potentials and much-anticipated Little Fin. This quick-ser- promotables” from the part-time level and vice seafood diner, a neighbour to The Chase ushers them through a 16-week leadership- and The Chase Fish & Oyster on Temperance development program. Of the 92 employees Street in Toronto, was created to focus on who applied to be part of Chase Elite this NO MSG quality fresh seafood, available to eat on year, an interview process identified 16 to premise or take away. Its signature dish join. At the program’s conclusion, 12 were comprises cooked-to-order fish rolls pre- promoted. “The same way you would raise pared on sesame buns stained black with a family is how we raise our staff,” says Salm. bamboo charcoal. Salm considers the question of hospital- It’s that idea of simple food made and ity’s next incarnation as fascinating as it is sourced well that leads the company’s food unknown. “We’re plotting our direction as we C philosophy. “We’re not trying to overcom- go,” he says. And, along the way, they’re not M plicate things,” says Steh. “People want food forgetting to give back, supporting Toronto’s

Y that makes them feel good. They don’t want Hospital for Sick Children, Toronto’s Mount

CM to be overwhelmed.” As such, the two Chase Sinai Hospital and Toronto’s Baycrest restaurant menus feature simple, vibrant Hospital Foundation. Chase Hospitality gifts MY ingredients that are responsibly sourced and each beneficiary between $1,000 and $5,000 CY presented in unexpected ways. To wit, an a year.

CMY appetizer simply labelled Avocado at The From food to hospitality and commu- Chase is served in paper-thin slices that have nity outreach, the Chase Hospitality empire K Authentic flavours been placed in a vacuum sealer then rolled never slows. The Chase restaurant alone with a mixture of crab, smoked onion and feeds a legion of hungry devotees inside a using the freshest smoked coconut ($23). bustling 6,000-sq.-ft. restaurant that includes At Colette, food prep is a bit more chal- an 800-sq.-ft. kitchen overseen by three chefs ingredients lenging due to the precision required in and sous chefs and 15 line cooks per service. French cuisine. “There are so many variables “Some people will call us crazy,” says Steh of Serving the industry that need to go into a recipe for goat cheese the flurry. “But this is how you reset the bar for 29 years soufflé that you have to follow the same of Toronto’s hospitality scene.” l

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FineChoice_TV_DEC.indd 1 2014-11-05 11:52 AM CHEF OF THE YEAR

RIDING THE WAVE Ned Bell, executive chef of the Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver TURNING THE TIDE CHEF NED BELL STEALS THE SPOTLIGHT THIS YEAR, BECOMING THE POSTER BOY FOR SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD

BY JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER n his collection of essays, The Tipping Point, PHOTOGRAPH BY VENTURI+KARPA Malcolm Gladwell wrote of a rare personal- ity type. “These people on whom we rely on more heavily than we realize are Connectors, people with a very special gift of bringing Ipeople together,” he wrote. Social advancements depend on these influencers, who are curious, self- confident, sociable and energetic, he adds. Ned Bell is one such Connector who has had a profound impact on how chefs and Canadian con- sumers perceive seafood. Through advocacy against overfishing, and tireless promotion of identifying and sourcing sustainable seafood, the West Coast toque is part of a growing generation of chefs who consider the environmental impact of each dish. The Okanagan, B.C.-native has enjoyed time

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 43 in the kitchen since the age of 11, when he’d was just along for support and became really and regional VP of the Toronto-based Four whip up kid-friendly lasagna and stir-fry intrigued and started to educate myself about Seasons Hotels & Resorts, recalls. “Yew had meals for his younger siblings. As a teen, he what sustainable seafood was and how I could just made a concept shift to seafood and find- took on dishwashing jobs and catered his effect change,” Bell explains, speaking of The ing the right person for the role was pivotal. parents’ parties. At first blush, it wasn’t the Vancouver Aquarium’s program designed to My first impression of Ned was ... energy. food that drew Bell toward a culinary career educate the public on seafood species that Ned’s got a lot of it — a lot of ideas, creativ- but socializing with his guests and getting are caught (or farmed) to ensure long-term ity, enthusiasm — and it’s infectious, which feedback on the dishes he was serving. “I’m a health of the ecosystem. Chefs follow its speaks to his leadership qualities.” pretty gregarious person, so I really enjoyed guidelines to identify which seafood species Bell’s new seafood-focused menu had no that interaction. It wasn’t until right after are sustainably caught and good to highlight place for Atlantic salmon or Chilean sea bass. I graduated [high school] that I realized I on the menu (such as handline-caught Pacific “We took things off the menu that weren’t wanted to go to culinary school,” he explains. halibut) or over-fished species to nix from the designated-Ocean Wise or weren’t from wild, As a student at Dubrulle Culinary School menu (such as black tiger prawns). well-managed fisheries or closed contain- in Vancouver, Bell studied all facets of culi- Fast forward to 2011. After Bell had helmed ment aquaculture, which is basically like fish nary arts, from savoury to sweet. He was the kitchens of award-winning restaurants farming or fish farming done on land,” he the only student chosen out of his class to across the country, such as Accolade in explains. Instead, raw dishes took the spot- become a kitchen apprentice for instructors Toronto, Murrieta’s Bar & Grill in Calgary and light such as halibut topped with avocado and such as celebrated chef Rob Feenie. After the Rosewood Hotel Georgia in Vancouver, he corn ($19) and mains such as sablefish paired graduation in 1993, Bell followed his mentor landed at the Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver. with celery and baby kale ($35). It was all part to the upscale French restaurant Le Crocodile His ideas about implementing a sustainably of his philosophy of creating globally inspired in Vancouver. sourced menu came to fruition at the helm but locally created food, featuring nutrient- While the chef was advancing his career, of the hotel’s 120-seat Yew Seafood + Bar. “I dense, plant-based cooking. he became inspired by the work his peers first met Ned in the summer of 2011 when “As our menus became more progres- were doing to advocate for sustainable sea- the hotel was searching for a new execu- sive, we started to take more risks and put food. “I stand on the shoulders of great tive chef with the passion, personality and on more interesting ingredients (its hearty Vancouver chef Rob Clark and guys who were purpose that the position demands,” Robert Yew chowder, for example, combines smoked co-founders of the Ocean Wise program. I Cima, GM of Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver black cod with Okanagan apples and vanilla

bean honey, $12), and as customers started to for Ocean Wise and the like-minded Sea his cross-country bike trek across Canada this get really excited about those ingredients, we Choice program. This past summer, he took summer exemplifies that perfectly,” says Ann- continued to push and grow,” he adds. That his biking challenge up a notch, cycling from Marie Copping, manager of Ocean Wise. excitement fuelled a business boom. “We took St. John’s, N.L. and hitting every province “The Ocean Wise team is so grateful for his the restaurant from $6.5 million annually to west to Vancouver. work to raise awareness of the issues facing $8.5 million in our first year, which was pretty “I wanted to do something outside of our quickly depleting oceans, and it’s through extraordinary. Clearly by giving ourselves a the box from a culinary point of view,” Bell influencers such as Ned and a national net- really focused identity — not only were we a explains. “So, I thought maybe there would be work of sustainably minded chefs, suppliers, seafood restaurant but a sustainable seafood some shock value to that, and maybe people producers and partners, that we hope to turn restaurant — customers connected with that would pay attention to the message more.” the tide of overfishing.” and supported it by coming back and lov- Over the course of 10 weeks, Bell cycled 150 Bell has two “big hairy audacious goals” for ing what we were doing,” he raves. The Four to 200 kilometres per day and made two- the future, “B-hags, for short,” quips the chef. Seasons in Vancouver became Canada’s first dozen appearances at restaurants along the He wants to introduce a national sustainable 100-per-cent Ocean Wise-certified luxury way, hosting brunches, receptions and even seafood day in Canada on March 18 (a day hotel, and the award-winning restaurant is dock ’n’ dines to share his story and spread celebrated in Australia); and, over the next on track to reach $9 million in annual sales the message about sustainable seafood, rais- decade, he’d like sustainable seafood to be by the end of 2014, from $8.5 million in 2013. ing more than $24,000. He also returned accessible to every Canadian, a feat he says Today, it’s averaging 250 covers for lunch and from his travels teeming with new menu ideas can be accomplished by zeroing in on the 300 for dinner. for Yew, including a Shore Lunch inspired by retail markets first to revolutionize the supply With growing support from his communi- Manitoba and Western Ontario. It features chain. In the meantime, the father-of-two is ty, Bell’s activism has blossomed. In 2013, the shallow-fried walleye with baked beans, wild looking forward to growing his network of chef spent four days cycling nearly 900 kilo- rice, bread and butter. chefs and influencing the future generation metres across Vancouver island to raise funds. The emotionally and physically taxing feat of toques, one by one. “Sustainable seafood This year he founded Chefs for Oceans, a is just one way chefs across Canada are step- is [at the centre of] a conversation people grassroots campaign that was dreamed up ping outside the kitchen and advocating for are having, but they still need so much during the Halifax Canadian Chefs’ Congress the environment. “Chef Ned Bell is an ardent more information. Chefs for Oceans’ work is two years ago to raise money and awareness supporter and defender of our oceans, and just beginning.” l

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Photography: Kayla Rocca STILL WATERS RUN DEEP THE GUIDING PRINCIPLES OF INTEGRITY, QUALITY AND INNOVATION HAVE MADE HIGH LINER FOODS A LEADING SUPPLIER OF PREPARED FROZEN SEAFOOD IN CANADA

BY HELEN CATELLIER | PHOTOGRAPH BY MARGARET MULLIGAN

he landlocked Canadian operation headquarters of High Liner Foods in Concord, Ont. don’t conjure up images of cresting waves, surging gales or groundswells. But, upon Tcloser inspection, the porthole-inspired board- room signs, brass accents, leather seating and rich wood tones fittingly pay homage to a sea- faring life. The Lunenburg, N.S.-based company (with U.S. headquarters in Danvers, Mass.) was founded in 1899 as W.C. Smith & Company, a salt-fish operation in Lunenburg, N.S. And, for nearly a century, its crew boasted big quo- tas and big boats, selling everything that was caught. But, after a government-imposed mor- atorium shut down the cod fishery in July 1992, the company’s leaders had to rethink their modus operandi. “We went through a LEADING CHANGE period where we [had] our back against the Concord, Ont.-based wall,” says Mario Marino, president and COO, High Liner Foods’ Jerome Amlinger, VP, Canadian Operations, who started with the Sales and Marketing, company as a sales rep nearly 34 years ago. “We Foodservice Division (right) had close to 50 vessels and no fish to catch. So, and Mario Marino (far right) president and COO, as an organization, we had to [entirely change] Canadian Operations

48 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM SUPPLIER OF THE YEAR

STILL WATERS RUN DEEP our model and source fish around the from every aspect of the business, including ing oil is generating electricity; at manufac- world. Procurement was not even a word in procurement, sales, marketing and informa- turing locations, all paper, plastic, metals our vocabulary.” tion systems. It also came at a time of rapid and food waste is recycled; and retrofit- The cod fishery supported coastal com- business growth — 2007 annual sales were ted lights at the Lunenburg processing facil- munities for hundreds of years, but, when US$275.3 million; today sales exceed US$1 ity have reduced energy consumption by stocks dwindled to near extinction, it cast a billion — including three acquisitions that 200,000 kWh annually. The company is also beacon on the exploitation of ocean life and required large-scale integration with seamless working with Sedex (the Supplier Ethical the need to safeguard natural resources. “The customer service. Data Exchange), a London, U.K.-based learning there was sustainable fisheries are so This past February, High Liner Foods not-for-profit membership organization, important,” Marino adds. “We had to [make] was recognized for its achievements in sus- which helps drive improvements in ethical sure we were sustainable and the industry tainability when it was honoured with the and responsible practices throughout the was sustainable around seafood, because if McDonald’s Canada 2014 Sustainability supply chain. we don’t have sustainable fisheries we’re not Award at the restaurant company’s Supplier On the heels of its award from McDonald’s, going to have fish to catch, fish to process and Summit in Toronto. “High Liner helped High Liner Foods was named SeaShare’s 2014 fish to sell.” McDonald’s Canada navigate sustainable National Fisheries Institute’s Donor of the So, in 2010, the company defined a goal to sourcing practices for fish and seafood as Year — among other 2014 accolades — for source all its seafood from certified sustain- we completed MSC’s (Marine Stewardship its contributions of seafood, processing and able or responsible fisheries by the end of Council) third-party chain-of-custody certi- funds. The Bainbridge Island, Wash.-based 2013. This includes purchasing from suppli- fication,” says Amy Hwang, manager, Supply non-profit has provided more than 180-mil- ers who catch or farm seafood responsibly, Chain Management for McDonald’s Canada lion seafood meals throughout the American protecting against over-fishing and limiting in Toronto. “Through our partnership, we’ve food-bank network. Meanwhile, High Liner the impact of fishing and aquaculture — the been able to leverage their expertise to achieve Foods’ Canadian operations supported vari- cultivation of seafood in controlled saltwater the certification milestone and take a further ous charitable groups this year, including or freshwater conditions — on the environ- step forward in our sustainability journey.” United Way, Habitat for Humanity, World ment. In February, the company reported High Liner Foods’ sustainability efforts Wildlife Fund Canada and Big Brothers Big reaching 99 per cent of its sustainability goal. also include reducing the company’s overall Sisters of Canada, among others. “It’s sharing This achievement required collaboration carbon footprint. At some plants, used cook- back what we have been so lucky to have as

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50 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM a company — to continue to grow even in tization) target of US$150 million by 2016. options on menus,” Amlinger explains. “And tough times,” says Jerome Amlinger, VP, Sales “We are aggressively pursuing acquisitions,” they still want indulgence; they still want and Marketing, Foodservice Division, who Marino says. “You get cost effectiveness in to try a battered or baked fish product with works out of the Concord office. buying raw materials, packaging and process- a crispy coating on it, not just a plain piece And, there could be more to share since ing, so you can get your costs down just by of fish.” this year’s second-quarter operating results scale. That helps us continue to be profitable, Making it easy for foodservice operators to show sales increased in the first half of 2014 by and it helps us continue to innovate and sup- increase seafood consumption at their estab- US$58.1 million, or 12.1 per cent, to US$538.2 port the category in retail and foodservice.” lishments drives the top brass at High Liner million, compared to US$480.1 million dur- High Liner Foods’ product line now com- Foods. They ensure product offerings provide ing the same period last year. The increase is prises 30 species and more than 400 SKUs customers with consistency in quality and attributed partly to improved profitability in in foodservice and has grown beyond fish consistency in supply chain, ensure products Canada and the U.S. but mainly to the acquisi- sticks to include premium species such as can be presented in multiple ways without a tion of New Bedford, Mass.-based American squid, lobster, crab and mussels. In October, lot of specialized equipment or highly skilled Pride Seafoods in October 2013, which added four new species of wild-caught fish were labour and provide four regional distribution US$73.5 million in sales in the first half of added to the Foodservice Signature prod- centres for foodservice in Canada, allowing 2014. This is one in a string of acquisitions, uct line, including Alaska sockeye salmon, deliveries within 24 hours from coast to coast. which saw High Liner Foods gobble up Alaska halibut, Alaska black cod and Pacific As one of the largest purchasers of fish Miami-based Atlantic Trading Company, LLC cod. And, this past summer the company in the Canadian foodservice industry, the in October of this year; Newport News, Va.- introduced a gluten-free line, which includes buyers at McDonald’s Canada have built a based Icelandic U.S.A. in 2011; the American two items under the Sea Cuisine label: long-standing, collaborative relationship with assets of Malden, Mass.-based Viking Seafoods Wild Pacific Salmon Fillets in Creamy Dill High Liner Foods. “Their level of expertise in 2010; and St. John’s, N.L.-based FPI (Fishery Sauce and Mediterranean-Glazed Haddock of the seafood industry, coupled with their Products International) in 2007, among others. Portions. The new offerings meet custom- leadership and commitment to sustainable Consolidating the fragmented North er demands for gluten-free products and sourcing, makes them a trusted partner,” American seafood industry is key to reaching come certified with the Mississauga, Ont.- says Hwang. “Their values are aligned with the company’s Adjusted EBITDA (earnings based Canadian Celiac Association’s stamp of ours and, as such, we’re very proud to work before interest, taxes, depreciation and amor- approval. “People are looking for gluten-free with them.” l

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Highliner_HH.indd 1 2014-11-05 11:29 AM PHOTO: WINE COUNTRY ONTARIO WINE RECOGNITION

THE SECRET’S OUT More than 150 restaurants champion Ontario’s versatile, age-worthy and internationally acclaimed wines

BY HELEN CATELLIER

ntario wines were not taken Today, Ontario is one of the world’s wine-growing regions. Ontario’s hot sum- seriously for years, but icewine leading producers of icewine, with approxi- mers and cold and sharp winters ensure helped change that in 1991, mately 60 wineries bottling nearly 900,000 an icewine harvest most years, since grapes Owhen Inniskillin’s 1989 Vidal Icewine won litres of the golden elixir annually, accord- must be handpicked in the middle of the the Grand Prix d’Honneur at Vinexpo in ing to Vineland, Ont.-based Wine Country night when they are frozen solid and tem-

PHOTO: WINE COUNTRY ONTARIO PHOTO: WINE COUNTRY Bordeaux, France. Ontario, which promotes the province’s peratures are -8°C.

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 53 WINE RECOGNITION

This year, Canada won its first different price points.” Indeed, Flat Rock International Trophy at the 2014 Decanter Cellars’ 2012 Rusty Shed was World Wine Awards. Inniskillin’s 2012 Vidal honoured with a gold award by Decanter Icewine took top prize in its category, but magazine. When it comes to red, Hidden many Ontario wines were honoured with Bench’s 2011 Locust Lane Pinot Noir was the prestigious award. “People still have this among the Canadian silver winners. vision in their minds that in Ontario we Despite its 200-year history, Ontario is a only produce icewine,” says James Treadwell, relative newcomer to the world of winemak- sommelier and owner at Treadwell Farm-to- ing. Ontario’s first winery, Vin Villa Winery, Table Cuisine in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont. was established in 1866 on Pelee Island on “It’s very exciting what’s happening now in Lake Erie. And, Inniskillin was granted the terms of Chardonnay. There are exception- first winery licence since 1916 in 1974, when ally fine Chardonnays being produced at the modern era of winemaking in Ontario

RECOGNIZED WE LOVE WINE COUNTRY ONTARIO ESTABLISHMENTS

Aberfoyle Fergus Kitchener Aberfoyle Mill Restaurant The Breadalbane Inn & Spa Charcoal Steak House Dels Enoteca Pizzeria Alton Gananoque Embers Restaurant & Lounge Headwaters Restaurant and Lounge The Gananoque Inn & Spa at Holiday Inn at Millcroft Inn & Spa Trinity House Inn Golf’s Steak House & Seafood

Amherstburg Goderich London Ducks on the Roof Benmiller Inn & Spa Idlewyld Inn & Spa The London Club Ancaster Gravenhurst Ancaster Mill Taboo Muskoka Markdale Barrhead Pub & Grill Barrie Grimsby Tattinger’s Restaurant at Holiday Inn The Judge & Jester Mississauga Breakwater Restaurant Bayfield Guelph Four Points By Sheraton Black Dog Village Pub & Bistro Borealis Grille & Bar Toronto Airport The Little Inn of Bayfield The Woolwich Arrow Pub The International Centre Live Restaurant at the Living Beamsville Hamilton Arts Centre August Restaurant Radius Restaurant Kitchen House at Peninsula Ridge Morriston Estates Winery Huntsville Enver’s of Morriston Eclipse at Deerhurst Resort Belleville Spencer’s Tall Trees Restaurant Niagara Falls Dinkel’s Restaurant & Paulo’s 21 Club Steak & Seafood at Italian Trattoria Ingersoll Fallsview Casino Resort Elm Hurst Inn & Spa AG Inspired Cuisine Cambridge Buchanans at DoubleTree Fallsview Fireside Restaurant & Lounge at Jackson’s Point Resort & Spa by Hilton Holiday Inn The Briars Resort & Spa Canyon Creek at Fallsview Langdon Hall Country House Casino Resort Hotel & Spa Jordan Casa Mia Ristorante Inn on the Twenty Edgewaters Tap & Grill Carleton Place Jordan House Elements on the Falls Ballygiblin’s Restaurant & Pub Zooma Zooma Resto and Wine Bar Napoli Ristorante & Pizzeria

Collingwood Keene Niagara-on-the-Lake Oliver & Bonacini Café Grill, Hearthside Dining Room at The Cannery Restaurant at Blue Mountain Elmhirst’s Resort Pillar and Post The Charles Inn Creemore Kingston The Epicurean Creemore Kitchen AquaTerra by Clark Escabèche at Prince of Wales

The Kingston Brewing Company Ginger Restaurant ONTARIO PHOTOS: WINE COUNTRY

54 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM WINE RECOGNITION

began. In 1988, Ontario wine producers cre- us share our local story and have confi- varieties of Ontario VQA wines. Treadwell ated the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) to dence in how great Ontario VQA wines is a staunch supporter of the program. identify geographic appellations and intro- are,” says Magdalena Kaiser, director of “Everybody wins. It’s about building an duce standards for production, including a Public Relations, Marketing and Tourism industry that’s been around for a [few] years, guarantee that VQA wines are made from for Wine Country Ontario. but we’ve only scratched the surface in terms 100-per-cent Ontario-grown grapes. This year the initiative was relaunched of its potential. We’re proud to work with In 2004, the VQA Award of Excellence as the We Love Wine Country Ontario res- wineries in terms of building their brand but was created by Wine Country Ontario to taurant recognition program. The goal is to also building ours, too.” recognize licensees who embrace Ontario promote VQA wines and to help customers Treadwell’s wine list comprises up to 80 VQA wines and have high professional find their favourite VQA wines outside of per cent local selections and complements standards in wine service. “It’s about our wine country. To qualify, restaurants must the restaurant’s food philosophy, which industry recognizing excellence and bring- offer Ontario VQA wine by the glass and emphasizes the best artisan producers from ing attention to those businesses that help have a wine list comprising 25 per cent or 25 Niagara and surrounding regions. “There are

RECOGNIZED WE LOVE WINE COUNTRY ONTARIO ESTABLISHMENTS

Grill on King Picton Pazzo Pizzeria & Taverna Miller Tavern North York The Irish Harp Pub Amelia’s Garden at The Waring House The Prune Restaurant Momiji Japanese Grill Old Winery Restaurant Clara’s at Claramount Inn & Spa The Restaurant at The Bruce Hotel The Old Mill Restaurant Oban Inn Lake on the Mountain Resort Rundles Pangaea Restaurant Riverbend Inn & Sandbar Lounge at Isaiah Tubbs Sirkel Foods Platinum Club at The Air Shaw Café & Wine Bar Resort & Conference Centre Canada Centre Terroir La Cachette Restaurant & Wine Thornbury Real Sports Bar & Grill Bar at Strewn Winery Port Severn Bruce Wine Bar Kitchen Reds Wine Tavern Treadwell Farm-to-Table Cuisine Harbour Lights Dining Room at Ruby Watchco Treadwell Wine Bar Rawley Resort & Marina Thorold Sassafraz Trius Winery Restaurant The Keefer Mansion Inn Sightlines Market Buffet at the Zees Grill Queenston Queenston Heights Restaurant Toronto Splendido Oakville 5th Element St. George’s Golf & Country Club Paradiso Restaurant Richmond Hill 7 Numbers Turf Lounge Fraticelli’s Italian Grill & Bar 360 Restaurant, CN Tower Wildfire Steakhouse & Wine Bar Orangeville Air Canada Club at Air Canada Centre Babbo at Hockley Valley Resort Sarnia Allen’s Vineland Cabin at Hockley Valley Resort Bridges Restaurant at Holiday Inn Arriba Restaurant Vineland Estates Winery Restaurant Creations Fine Dining at Auberge du Pommier Ottawa Lambton College BarVolo Waterloo Beckta La Brasserie at Crowne Plaza The Bauer Kitchen Le Café at National Arts Centre Sault Ste. Marie Toronto Airport Bloom at Conestoga College Canvas Resto Bar Etc. View Restaurant + Bar Canoe Restaurant and Bar Rushes Restaurant at the Waterloo Inn East India Company The Carlton Restaurant at Holiday Inn Conference Hotel Empire Grill Simcoe Toronto Downtown Centre Perspectives Restaurant at Barrel Restaurant Cheesewerks Wellington Brookstreet Hotel The Combine The Chefs’ House at George Drake Devonshire Petit Bill’s Bistro Brown College Santé Restaurant & Art Gallery St. Catharines Crush Wine Bar + Kitchen Whitney Taylor’s Genuine Food & Wine Bar Dani’s Bistro & VQA Wine Bar Epic at The Fairmont Royal York The Bear Trail Dining Room at Wine Bar Bistro Frescos Restaurant & Bar Farmhouse Tavern Couples Resort The Office Tap & Grill Frank at the Perth Tôi Restaurant Globe Bistro Windsor The Masonry Restaurant & Market Granite Club Rino’s Kitchen & Ale House Stoney Creek Harbour Sixty Steakhouse Peterborough The Innsville Restaurant Hard Rock Cafe Riverside Grill at Holiday Inn Hawthorne Food & Drink Peterborough-Waterfront Stratford Joy Bistro Bijou Restaurant The Lakeview Restaurant Pickering Down The Street Bar & Restaurant Luma Restaurant Port Restaurant Downie Street Burgers Mars Collaboration Centre Mercer Hall Matisse Restaurant & Bar Molly Bloom’s Irish Pub Metro Toronto Convention Centre

PHOTOS: WINE COUNTRY ONTARIO PHOTOS: WINE COUNTRY The Parlour Inn Miller Tavern Downtown

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 55 WINE RECOGNITION

SHARE THE LOVE ent, but you’re also supporting very small dining experience more pleasurable. “If The We Love Wine Country Ontario recognition pro- producers who are passionate and who are you have a higher alcohol wine, it feels very gram includes more than 150 recognized establish- doing it just for the love of making wine.” weighty and heavy on the palate,” she says. ments. To qualify, restaurants must offer Ontario VQA Kathleen Moore, head sommelier and “It masks the food.” wines by the glass and have a wine list comprising beverage manager at Langdon Hall Country But, in addition to the natural acidity that 25 per cent or 25 varieties of Ontario VQA wines. House Hotel & Spa in Cambridge, Ont., has makes Ontario wine a great accompaniment In return, operators receive a communications also been a longtime supporter of Ontario to food, it’s also versatile, aromatic and ages starter kit, window clings, a winecountryontario.ca wine. “We are making some outstanding well. “Some of the wines are too young to listing and mapping tool, use of the program logo for their menu and website, a framed certificate of wine,” she says. “People [have preconceived be drunk when released; they need a few recognition, an opportunity to leverage Wine Country notions that] we can’t make red wine in years to come together,” advises Moore. “I’m Ontario-driven social-media efforts and inclusion Ontario or that we focus on for still serving 2002 Peninsula Ridge Cabernet in consumer outreach initiatives such as the Wine grape production, and that Riesling is always [Sauvignon] and Reserve, and they’re Country Ontario monthly newsletter. To nominate an sweet. But when I put a dry Riesling in front beautiful now. They’re drinking very well.” establishment, visit winecountryontario.ca and click of them, they’re pleasantly surprised.” Though Langdon Hall offers more than on Trade Resources. Kaiser says Ontario now boasts approxi- 1,000 international wines, the resort attracts mately 150 VQA wineries. The cool climate visitors who want to see what’s being made creates grapes that are aromatic and higher in its backyard. So Moore showcases more some amazing wineries, which 90 per cent of in acidity, which complement food. “You than 250 Ontario wines. “Restaurants should the public don’t even know about,” he notes, look at acidity like a wedge of lemon or salt; really get involved with this whole local pointing to small-scale producers who may it brings out the flavours of a dish really movement,” Moore says. “It’s great for mar- only bottle 150 cases of wine and can’t get well,” Farm-to-Table’s Treadwell explains. keting; it’s great for the environment. We into retail. “That’s the most exciting thing, Moore agrees, adding that the relatively should showcase what great products are because not only are you giving [customers] lower alcohol content of Ontario wine coming out of our province and help sup- the opportunity to try something differ- allows the food to shine, making the whole port our industry.” l

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drinks, such as the Manhattan ing and don’t coat the palate. and Sazerac, don’t always appear Golden agave nectar, derived on cocktail menus anymore, but from the same plant species as they have stood the test of time. tequila, is a favourite, because it “They are classic because they complements his tequila- and work and they are delicious,” mescal-based cocktails well. The says Oliver Stern, managing bestselling cocktail at L’Abattoir, partner at Toronto Temperance the Avocado Gimlet, combines Society, a members-only bar. a quarter of a fresh avocado Another concoction that’s with sugar, rosemary-and-olive- well-suited for sipping in the infused gin, lime juice and apple winter is the Vancouver Cocktail schnapps ($13). “People say it (pictured, left), which debuted reminds them of a smoothie, so last month at L’Abattoir restau- it’s got a really thick beautiful rant in Vancouver. Inspired by creamy texture to it, and then a drink originally served at the you get the savoury notes from ooks like the days of tall, historic Sylvia hotel in the city’s the olive, rosemary and the gin,” HITTING fizzy and fruity concoc- west end, the three-ounce bever- Layton explains, adding that he Ltions are behind us, at age is a blend of gin, vermouth sells between 15 and 25 glasses THE least temporarily. and Bénédictine. Bar man- of the green brew per night. As the forecast changes from ager, Shaun Layton, acquired The two most popular menu MARK warm to cool, so does our palate unopened antique spirits from cocktails at Toronto Temperance Classic brews and savoury for cocktails. “In the summer- the 1960s and is pouring the Society also have savoury notes. nuances get star billing at time, [customers] drink some- Vancouver Cocktail while quan- La Hoja combines cucum- cocktail bars this season thing ... more effervescent and tities last. He’s confident cus- ber, basil, lime, tequila, green BY HELEN CATELLIER citrus-forward, and maybe go to tomers will pay a whopping $60 Chartreuse, agave and salt ($14) something ... a little bit heavier, for the nostalgia and exclusivity and the Petey’s Muddle features a little bit oakier, more alcohol- it offers. jalapeño, cilantro, lime, mescal forward in the wintertime,” says Whether marked by chang- and a Laphroaig smoky Scotch Franz Swinton, bar manager at ing palates or the changing wash ($14). Oliver notes that Añejo restaurant in Calgary. The seasons, savoury cocktails have bartenders are working closer Old Fashioned ($15) is one of also started replacing the über- with chefs these days, making Añejo’s most popular cocktails, sweet, sugary ones. Swinton more attempts to pair food with particularly during the winter. sources alternative, organic drink; it’s a win-win for today’s This, along with other vintage sweeteners, which aren’t as cloy- foodie-obsessed culture. l

SURF’S UP Kitschy Polynesian-inspired flaming torches, palm trees, masks, totems and servers donning quintessential floral shirts is one way to warm up the bar scene on a chilly evening. “In every city I go, I feel like there’s a tiki bar,” says Oliver Stern, managing partner at Toronto Temperance Society, which often hosts tiki nights during winter. “Even though it’s winter outside, you’re drinking tiki drinks and listening to tiki music; [it] can feel like it’s warm and summery.” Evoking memories of tropical getaways, tiki bevvies are characteristically rum-based and often feature tropical syrups, coconut water, fruit juices or grenadine served over crushed ice. “We light things on fire and put in obnoxious garnishes such as umbrel- las, plastic palm trees and big, neon bendy straws,” laughs Stern, “everything that’s different from the way our bar would normally be. It’s all about having fun.” PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [SURF’S UP]

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 57 TIME MACHINE

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HOLDING STRONG Today’s buffet and holding equipment offers style and substance BY DENISE DEVEAU

estaurant buf- with Design.net in Acton, fets are taking Ont. and a noted special- Ron a fresh new ist in kitchen and bar look. Today’s foodservice specification and design. operators are moving “The main trend is hav- away from tried-and-true ing more fire power in steam tables and chaf- less space.” ing dishes of the past, to As a result, induc- create sleeker, modular, tion burners are win- multi-functional displays, ning attention within which keep food fresh the buffet segment, too. and visually appealing. “The quality is there Conserving space for induction [use] to without sacrificing become widespread,” functionality is also says McCluskey. “The important, says Paul only issue is induction McCluskey, principal requires contact with metal [for] heat transfer; very attractive way to Unified Brands, also has so the [drop-in] pan get away from the typi- a cold-mount underside must be the right depth.” cal cafeteria or clinical with a reservoir for col-

HOT STUFF Induction warmers arrangement; and chefs lecting and draining CookTek’s line of under stone are becom- love the flexibility,” moisture, McCluskey waterless, induction- ing especially popular, McCluskey says. says. And, the more based SinAqua hold- ing equipment (above) since they can be used The same concept attractive the equip- offers both style and with attractive chafing applies to cold surfaces ment, the more atten- substance, while Cres Cor’s HotCube (left) dishes, serving pans or where a metal plate can tion needs to be paid to is a flexible holding designer crockery for a be placed under a frost the serving dishes, he system that can easily be transported for more attractive presen- stone to maintain the adds. “It’s no good put- outdoor use tation. “The induction temperature required. ting in a nice system if energy goes through the Rotisol, from Inglewood, you have old pans.” stone. When it’s turned Calif., has cold drop-in Robert Bartley, execu- off, you remove the chaf- displays with a built-in tive chef for Canucks ing dish, and all you have granite slab. Randell, Sports & Entertainment is a stone surface. It’s a from Conyers, Ga.-based in Vancouver, has cho-

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 59 EQUIPMENT

SHERATON LAVAL sen to use flat surfaces pot or a Dutch oven.” STEPS OUTSIDE THE BOX at the company’s new The main difference with Anyone visiting the La Piazza restaurant Loge, a self-serve res- this approach is portions at the Sheraton Laval Hotel in Quebec will be treated to a visual feast, thanks taurant, which opened are smaller, so food needs to new customized cold and hot buf- in October. “We tried to to be changed often. fet equipment. It was important to revamp the presentation “But the quicker rotation beef up the customer experience and to a home kitchen feeling means a fresher appear- outfit the restaurant with updated and and get away from chaf- ance,” notes Bartley. precise equipment. And, it helps that ing dishes,” he explains. Kyle Nordman, prin- the refresh gave staff safe and user- The undermount cipal and co-founder friendly tools with which to work, notes Incogneeto induction of Savoury Chef Foods,

Eric Robidoux, executive chef. The new systems from Chicago- a full-service catering PHOTOS: MARIE-JOSE HAINS [VOLLRATH BUFFET EQUIPMENT] equipment includes more than a half- based CookTek ($2,550 service in Vancouver, dozen multi-well units from Sheboygan, each, plus $205 for the says clients increasingly Wis.-based Vollrath’s Fabricator line, locator disk) feature a want to create a family which features a hand-milled, stainless- Cambria stone surface style meal presentation. steel exterior. The Miramar line’s for placing crockery pots “Everything is refreshed decorative pans with display cookware and other vessels. “With constantly, so food isn’t are designed to offer elegant food presentation. The buffet also includes two drop-in induction units as well as a contour carving this, we get to use very left out too long,” he station (also from Vollrath), complete with a sneeze guard, lamps and a specially designed high-end (Lafayette, explains. While he prefers cutting board. When determining what equipment would be the best fit, Robidoux invested in N.J.-based) Bon Chef plating from a kitchen, quality, durable pieces that are visually appealing. “The heavy gauge ensures years of use, crockery,” says Bartley. for buffet meals, he and drop-in wells are easy to clean and maintain,” he says, adding that the change has paid “It could be a white and uses single-temperature off. “[Customers] like the avant-garde presentation; some think we changed the entire menu.” chrome double-handed electric heating pads,

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which make it easy to of the customized refrig- lake. That’s why Roger Yellowknife chef. place 78 plates on the restock porcelain dishes erated offerings from DeLeeuw, the chef man- Lisa Aronson, rack. “They’re a staple and cold-surface equip- O’Fallon, Mo.-based ager, uses two HotCube executive chef at The for our operation,” she ment for ice-bar or True and Mississauga, units from Mentor, Algonquin Resort in St. says. “Now that they’re seafood presentations. Ont.-based Garland. Ohio-based Cres Cor. Andrews, N.B., doesn’t more electronic, you “We’ve also purchased Induction is also a draw The portable systems transport food over ice can get much more an induction unit with a for Higgins. “It’s so much have a solar panel for the surfaces, so she relies on precise temperature set- stone top from CookTek safer than using methyl electrical control and a seven new Energy Star- tings. Back in the day, as well as Eurodib (from hydrates [as fuel]. We’re propane tank for heating. rated holding systems the heat used to come Boucherville, Que.) induc- also trying to get away “They can be plugged from Menomonee Falls, from a bottom element; tion single-burner cook- from steam tables, which into the vane when we’re Wis.-based Alto-Shaam now it’s more even, and

PHOTOS: MARIE-JOSE HAINS [VOLLRATH BUFFET EQUIPMENT] tops for chef stations.” only stay good for about transporting them,” to keep food warm at the bottom doesn’t get “So many places are 15 minutes.” DeLeeuw explains. The banquets. “At any given screaming hot to the pushing the envelope. Versatile food- units cost $1,200 each, time we can be serving point where you can One induction-buffet sta- holding equipment is plus an extra $300 for multiple groups of 200 burn yourself.” tion I saw in India had a especially important the solar panel, and they to 300 people. Some of Ultimately, many cover that converted it to at the Smokehouse hold 12 full pans each. the units are kept in a issues factor into buffet a 20-foot table. It was an Café in Yellowknife. Its “They’re a lot more dura- separate holding kitchen and holding equipment incredible use of space,” catering service offers ble and can handle a lot across the street. But it’s purchasing decisions, but recalls John Higgins, local fish and game for of movement. We used to a great system for re- must revolve around bud- director of George Brown various events, which are carry Cambro food boxes therming plates, because gets and flexibility, “oth- College’s Chef School in sometimes held outside (from Huntington Beach, they can take roll-in erwise you’ve wasted a lot Toronto. Back at home, in -30°C weather on Calif.), which was a lot racks straight from the of money,” notes George he likes the adaptability the middle of a frozen of extra work,” says the ovens.” The chef can Brown’s Higgins. l Crown_Good_SSC:SSC Layout Crown_Better_SSC:SSC1/15/10 LayoutCrown_Best_SSC:SSC 1/15/10 10:21 AMLayout Page 11/15/10 PRODUCT SHOWCASE PSA06_CRN_PizzaScreens_layout 2013-10-16 2:25 PM Page 1 GOOD! BETTER!! BEST!!!

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BRAVING THE ELEMENTS The Deer + Almond’s Mandel Hitzer is building a unique food hub in Winnipeg BY BRIANNE BINELLI

ew foodies associate the term “culinary community” with the secret dinners in art spaces, warehouses and restaurants. “We figured city of Winnipeg, but that’s changing, thanks to food enthu- out a way to create a buzz and start building a name for ourselves in Fsiasts such as Mandel Hitzer. The chef and owner of the city’s the city,” he says. He thought: “One day we’re going to find an investor, Deer + Almond has already attracted toques such as Vancouver’s an opportunity, by doing this. And it worked.” (Vij’s) and Calgary’s Jason Barton-Browne (Teatro) to the The end result is the 68-seat Deer + Almond. Named for the animal prairie province to cook at the annual Raw:Almond pop-up that he that is close to Hitzer’s heart and Mandel, which means “almond” in co-founded with Joe Kalturnyk in 2013. German, the restaurant was number 18 on Vacay.ca’s 2014 list of Top PHOTOS: JACQUELINE YOUNG [MANDEL HITZER], DREAMSTIME.COM [BITS & BITES] So, it’s no surprise that it was a community of friends and fam- 50 Restaurants in Canada. The menu changes every three months and ily that awakened the chef’s passion for food, a passion rooted in features globally inspired tapas dishes such as sweet potato galette a European heritage that exposed him to quality, homemade nosh. ($12), rabbit and herb gnocchi ($20) as well as sage and cranberry “I started cooking for my siblings on Saturdays, and I got so much chicken sausage ($14). joy out of it,” he recalls. Before he was 20, his career path was set. “I “I’m pretty lucky. I have this incredible staff. The restaurant is this realized this is what I want to do: I want to follow my heart and my energy; it’s like we’re all believing in this lightbulb, and the lightbulb tummy, be a chef and own my own restaurant.” keeps shining brighter,” says the 32-year-old. “With the right crew, Foregoing culinary school, the eager Hitzer worked his way up it allows [me] to take on more than I ever have before.” That’s how from dishwasher to sous chef to head chef. Following Winnipeg gigs Raw:Almond fits into the picture. The three-week pop-up is hosted by at Gluttons Bistro and Fresh Café as well as at Calgary’s River Café, Hitzer who invites chefs, such as Vij and Barton-Browne, to prepare he moved to Mexico to open a restaurant. But, unable to adapt, he food for 120 guests on Winnipeg’s frozen Assiniboine and Red rivers. returned home with a new outlook. “Working fine-dining and run- It returns for its third year Jan. 26, uniting foodies and chefs to cel- ning a restaurant, I burned out. The industry scared me,” he confesses. ebrate food, drink and friendship, accomplishing a goal its co-founder “I didn’t understand how to find a balance.” set when he launched Deer + Almond in 2012. It wasn’t about being He took a break but eventually realized how much he loved food. the best, Hitzer notes. “First and foremost [it was about building] So, in 2010, together with his artist friend Cyrus Smith, he hosted our community.” l

BITS & BITES What’s your favourite What’s your favourite ingredient? food memory? What do you “Everything to do with “My Oma making cook at home? the onion family me crêpes” “I love eggs and and garlic” broth. I’m simple.   Roast chicken” If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?  “Maybe an artist. That’s why I’m so drawn to this profession” 

64 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY DECEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

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FINAL ART Food Service Magazine - Full Page Ad Live Page: 7 5/8" x 10 3/8" Trim Size: 8 1/8" x 10 7/8" Bleed size: 8 5/8" x 11 3/8"

project information digital file information printing inks/colours, substrate, die line targets/tints internal perennial approvals

client: Loblaws file name: 5113LCL Full Pg Food Service Magazine Ad.ai Cyan Pantone 293 C artwork approved: Y/N initials date(d/m/y) project: Wholesale Club Ad job folder name: 5113LCL Wholesale Club Marketing Pieces production artist: docket #: 5113 software/version: Adobe Illustrator CS5, Macintosh Magenta Process Yellow 14 bill to docket #: 5113 Wholesale Club Magazine Ad fonts used: Helvetica Neue: 97 Black Condensed, Yellow Pantone 1797 C production director: 14 artwork description: Full Page Food Service Magazine Ad 96 Black Italic, 67 Medium Condensed, 57 Condensed, 77 Bold Condensed, Black proofreader: 14 die line #/size: Trim 8 1/8" x 10 7/8" Myriad Roman (Map) printing process: -- ??% designer: 14 stock information The Finished Line colours available: CMYK enviro designer: 14 ??% 15 Waulron Street, line screen: -- stock: –– creative director: 14 Toronto, ON, Canada, M9C 1B4 upc size: -- binding: –– ??% mill: –– T 416.641.8370 ©2014 pre-press/printer: Kostuch Media Ltd. business manager: 14 weight: –– the finished line info panel - january 14 Client is responsible for checking all copy before project prints. Colour special instructions production file history proof number perennial team separators, pre-press service bureaus and/or printers are responsible for verifying all technical/mechanical specifications, including but not • This mechanical artwork has been prepared size as - 100% start date: January 27, 2014 production artist: Francine G limited to tolerances, registration, accuracy of measurements and • Placed images in this artwork are FINAL Hi-Res, to be used for colour separations and printing. production director: George A construction details before film and plates/cylinders are generated. Any date last modified: February 3, 2014 changes to accommodate print requirements must be submitted to • This is a digital colour mechanical, no traps have been made. Trapping to be applied by separator. proofreader: client for approval. The Finished Line makes every reasonable effort to • This proof/PDF is for colour break and content only and may not accurately reflect final printed inks. date released: February 3, 2014 2 designer/creative director: George A ensure all artwork is error-free; however, we cannot be held responsible for any errors present once client provides final sign-off. • Do not open this file with software and version other than that specified. business manager: Rob T