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PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 34 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

Sabah Brunei Darussalam (p56) (p223)

Sarawak (p145)

Kalimantan (p240)

NEXT TOP EXPERIENCES MAP PAGE

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 303 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

PD 3HUHPSXDQ 0  :RPHQ RUD 3ULD ,  0HQ Directory A–Z ...... 304 SH 7DQGDV 0  7RLOHWV VWD 7XWXS &ORVHG Transport ...... 316 WR :DQLWD ,  :RPHQ ZD Health ...... 322 .H\:RUGV 2 Language ...... 327 ERWWOH ERWRO EUH EUHDNIDVW VDUDSDQSDJL FK FROG GLQJLQVHMXN ,0 HJ Index ...... 336 FXS FDQJNLUFDZDQ ,0 LFH GLQQHU PDNDQPDODP ULF IRRG PDNDQDQ Map Legend ...... 342 VD IRUN JDUSXJDUIX ,0 VX JODVV JHODV

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Daniel Robinson, Adam Karlin, Richard Waters, Simon Richmond, Iain Stewart, Joshua Samuel Brown Look out for these icons: Our author’s A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required

GATEWAY KUALA Maliau Basin Batang Ai Region ...... 183 Conservation Area ...... 124 LUMPUR ...... 36 CENTRAL SARAWAK . . . . 184 SOUTHWESTERN Sibu ...... 184 SABAH ...... 126 GATEWAY Batang Rejang ...... 188 SINGAPORE ...... 43 The Interior ...... 126 Bintulu ...... 194 Beaufort Division ...... 129 Similajau National GATEWAY Pulau Tiga National Park ...... 197 JAKARTA ...... 51 Park ...... 131 Niah National Park ...... 198 Pulau Labuan ...... 132 Lambir Hills National SABAH ...... 56 Park ...... 201 SARAWAK ...... 145 KOTA KINABALU ...... 57 Miri ...... 201 KUCHING ...... 148 AROUND KOTA NORTHEASTERN KINABALU ...... 73 WESTERN SARAWAK . . . 166 SARAWAK ...... 208 Tunku Abdul Rahman Bako National Park . . . . . 166 Gunung Mulu National National Park ...... 73 Santubong Peninsula . . . 170 Park ...... 208 NORTHWESTERN Kuching Wetlands Kelabit Highlands ...... 213 SABAH ...... 75 National Park ...... 172 Ba Kelalan ...... 218 Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu Semenggoh Nature National Park ...... 75 Trekking in the Kelabit Reserve ...... 173 Highlands...... 218 Around Mt Kinabalu ...... 85 Annah Rais Limbang Division ...... 219 Northwest Coast ...... 87 Longhouse ...... 173 Offshore Islands ...... 91 Gunung Penrissen & BRUNEI EASTERN SABAH ...... 92 Vicinity ...... 174 DARUSSALAM . . . . .223 Kubah National Park . . . . 175 Sandakan ...... 92 BANDAR SERI Sepilok ...... 99 Matang Wildlife BEGAWAN ...... 224 Centre ...... 176 Sandakan Archipelago . . . 102 TUTONG & BELAIT Bau & Environs ...... 177 Sungai Kinabatangan . . . 103 DISTRICTS ...... 235 Lundu ...... 178 Lahad Datu ...... 109 Tutong ...... 235 Gunung Gading National Jalan Labi ...... 235 Danum Valley Conservation Park ...... 179 Area ...... 110 Seria ...... 236 Sematan ...... 180 Tabin Wildlife Reserve . . . 112 Kuala Belait ...... 236 Telok Melano ...... 181 Semporna ...... 113 Tanjung Datu National TEMBURONG Semporna Archipelago . . 115 Park ...... 181 DISTRICT ...... 236 Tawau ...... 120 Talang-Satang Bangar ...... 237 Tawau Hills Park ...... 124 National Park ...... 182 Pulau Selirong ...... 238 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

Batang Duri ...... 238 Peradayan Forest Reserve ...... 238 Ulu Temburong National Park ...... 238

KALIMANTAN . . . . . 240 WEST & CENTRAL KALIMANTAN ...... 243 Pangkalan Bun ...... 243 Kumai ...... 245 Tanjung Puting National Park ...... 246 Palangka Raya ...... 249 Sebangau National Park ...... 252 SOUTH KALIMANTAN ...... 252 Banjarmasin ...... 252 Around Banjarmasin . . . . 256 Kandangan ...... 257 Negara ...... 257 Loksado ...... 257 Around Loksado ...... 258 EAST KALIMANTAN . . . . 259 Balikpapan ...... 259 Samboja Lodge ...... 263 Samarinda ...... 264 Kutai National Park . . . . . 268 Tenggarong ...... 269 Sungai Mahakam ...... 269 Upper Mahakam ...... 272 Berau ...... 273 Pulau Derawan ...... 276 Tarakan ...... 277 › Borneo 11°00’E Mt Kinabulu Highest peak in e# Southeast Asia (p75) 0200km 0100miles Maliau Basin Truly untouched ELEVATION rainforest (p214)

2000m 1500m S O U T H Gunung Mulu 1000m C H I N A National Park 500m S E A Vast caverns, millions of 200m 5°N bats, trekking (p208) 100m 0

Bako National Park Natuna Proboscis monkeys, pitcher Lambir Hills Besar plants and beaches (p166) National Park Island #÷ Niah Caves National Park ÷# Anambas Similajau Archipelago Kuching National Park #÷ Stylish and sophisticated Bintulu#\ Midai (p148) Mukah Island #\ Belaga \# #\ Dalat Rafflesia Flower SARAWAK See it at Gunung Gading i t Sibu g #] MALAYSIA r a Bitangor un National Park (p179) S e r a s a n #\ S t Bako Sarikei \# #\ Kanowit Rej National Park Batang Sematan \# ÷# Telok \# Kabong Gunung Gading Datu ÷# Pusa #\ as Hulu R National Park #^ u a #\ Kuching Bandar nge \# Sambas Bau Sri Aman Kap#÷ #÷ #\ Danau Betung #\Serian Pemangkat#\ Annah Rais \# Sentarum Kerihun ÷# Lubok\# National National Singkawang ]# Benkayang Park #\ Semenggoh Antu Park Tembelan Nature Kapu as Archipelago Reserve

#\ Mempawah \#Tanjung Sungai Sanggau Equator #\ #\ Pontianak ]# Sintang \#Rambai ge aner Ran Semenggoh Bukit Baka Schw Nature Reserve Bukit Raya Telukbatang #\ National Park #÷ Semi-wild Kualakurun ÷#Gunung Palung Tumbangjul #\ orangutans (p173) Maya National Park \# Sungai Tumbangsamba Islands \# Sukadama #\ Karimata Nanga \# Kudangan Islands Bay

Ta ya p Kasungan \# P Kualakuayan #\ Ketapang #\

e #\

K a r i m a t a m Bangka Petakbehandang Island S b t r a i t u Pangkalan a #\ #\ Kendawangan Bun n Sampit SUMATRA \# g #\Tandjungpandan Sebangau INDONESIA Sukamara #\ Tanjung Puting National #÷ Belitung National Park Park Island Kumai ÷# Kotawaringin Bay Bay #\ Tanjung Puting Kualapembuang Sebangan National Park Bay Spot gibbons and orangutans from a boat (p246) J a v a S e a Top Experiences ›

11°30’E Pulau Balambangan 12°00’E Pulau Banggi Pulau Cagayan Kudat Malawali \# Kpg Datong Sulu Island Pangutaran #\ Pulau Island Kota Jumbongan S u l u Belud Mt Kinabalu Tunku Abdul Rahman #\ R(4095m) S e a National Park #÷ Telok Jolo Kota Kinabalu #^ SABAH Labak ÷# Turtle Islands Island Ranau Jolo #\ #\ Beluran National Park #\ Parang #\ Crocker Range #] Sandakan Pa #\ #\Ta m b u n a n National Park par Siasi ÷ R Mt Trus Madi #\ Pulau # Tawitawi (2642m) Sungai Island Sias Labuan #\ Keningau Island Lahad BANDAR SERI Telok #\ Maliau Basin Brunei #\ Te nomConservation Kinabatangan÷# Datu PHILIPPINES 5°N BEGAWAN Sipitang #\ #\Tungku _# #\ ÷# Area Tu to ng#\ #\ Danum Valley Telo k #\ Kuala Conservation Lahad Da Seria Lawas \# Sapulut tu #\ Limbang To mani Area #\ Labi ÷#Ulu Temburong Kalabakan#\ #\ Kinabatangan ]# Semporna Miri National #] Safaris R Park Tawa u Sebatik Is BRUNEI #÷ Gunung Mulu ÷# land River banks teeming ) Nunukan Gunung Mulu (2377m Sebuku Timur Sebuko with animals (p103) National Sembakung Island Bay Park National Sungai Kelabit Park Bunyu Island Highlands Tarakan Is land Poring Hot Springs \# Tarakan Scalding and soothing ram Sekatak (p85) a #÷ Bay B Ta n j ung #\ C e l e b e s Kayan Selor S e a Mentarang National n Pula u Danum Valley a Derawan Park y #\ Range a Ta njung Sangalaki Primeval jungle, K Berau #] Batu Archipelago pygmy elephants, Tidung orangutans (p110) Iran Semerut#\ Estuary Sungai Samb aliung Mou Derawan & the ntai Sangalaki Archipelago ns Beautiful islands #\ Muarawahau Sangkulirang (p276 & p273) KALI MANTAN #\ INDONESIA Kutai Sangkulirang National #÷ Bay Kelabit Highlands Park Cool air, smiles, great trekking (p213) #\Bontang Longiram #\ Equator Te n g ga rong #\ ]# Samarinda

Palu #] #\ Muarateweh

#]

o Balikpapan t

i Balikpapan

r Bay a a r B Adang Bay #\Ta nahgrogot Apar Bay a i t r Palangka a k a s s SULAWESI ]# S t #\ M Raya Sungai Amuntai INDONESIA

\# Kandangan Pegunungan Meratus Rantau #\ Forested peaks, Pegunungan Banjarmasin #\ misty rivers (p257) #] Meratus Kotabaru ]# Martapura Sebuku #\ Island Pagatan #\ Pelaihari Laut ]# #\ Island Parepare Batakam 22 Itiner- aries

SOUTH CHINA Bako SEA Kuching National Gunung Gading Wetlands Park National Park National Park #÷ #÷ #÷

É

É

É É É #• Kuching

É É

#• Bau É Wind Cave & #• #÷• Semenggoh Fairy Cave Nature Reserve

SARAWAK

#• Annah KALIMANTAN Rais

One Week Kuching Excursions

Spend your fi rst day in Kuching picking up the vibe of the city’s kaleidoscopic mix of cultures and cuisines. Explore the shophouses of Chinatown, ride a tiny passenger ferry to the English Renaissance-style Fort Margherita, and take a sunset stroll along the Waterfront Promenade. If it’s Saturday, head to the Weekend Market in the afternoon; if it’s Sunday, visit in the morning. And if a giant Raffl esia fl ower happens to be in bloom in Gunung Gading National Park, drop everything and rush over before it rots; on the way back explore the Wind Cave and the Fairy Cave. On other days, combine a daytime excursion with an evening enjoying Kuching’s fi ne eateries and chic but laid-back nightlife. Spend a half-day spotting orangutans at Semenggoh Nature Reserve, then drive further inland to the longhouse of Annah Rais, where you can stay overnight. Take a boat to Bako National Park, keeping an eye out for proboscis monkeys, macaques and pitcher plants as you hike around the peninsula, or spend the sunset hour cruising around Kuching Wetlands National Park, alert for fi refl ies, crocs and proboscis monkeys. PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 23 , Mari Mari Kudat PHILIPPINES ? Trekking in ? Trekking rst hand! Party rst hand! Party (easier to get to fi – you can get a Semporna Archipelago to a week.ll four days

fi SEA #• . There are great lodges , take a trip to the , take Semporna •

# CELEBES #f #f and its famous orangutan

É for each. If you wantve days

fi SULU SEA SULU Sepilok Pulau Mantanani Pulau Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre É Sungai Kinabatanguan #•

É Semporna Archipelago ## • Night Market n #f #f

É o É Lok Kawi Wildlife Park Lok Kawi

an , you can see the lovely Penambawan water vil- , you can see the lovely Penambawan #•

g Area Sungai Kinabatangan Sungai nservati É and ? All of the above are possible, but to be practical o

atan C

Danum Valley ‚ Pulau , it’s easiest to leave from KK. You’ll need to budget in from KK. easiest to leave You’ll , it’s Banggi

n . This area is great for home stays. #•

#• É

iab

Tuaran u É K ) #•

ai

É m #f #f

g #f #f 5 n 9 (market). Heading north beaches of are the hidden (market). Heading o #• diving in the nish by 0 fi

Sun (KK) and give yourself two days to pre-book accommodation days (KK) and give yourself two (4 islands of -the-tourist-trail rst night in town, but try morning your head clear the to keep #• ff fi Mt Kinabal Maliau Basin Maliau

Area R

you can relax at Mañana Guest House and see, if you time things Guest House you can relax at Mañana KALIMANTAN tamu É Ranau Kudat Sabah Museum SABAH nservati

Mt Kinabalu

Kota Belud É o ,

É Maliau Basin C Pulau Banggi Pulau #• É

#f #f #• É #• #• , or the Pulau #• Kota Belud Kota Tuaran Kota Kinabalu Kota Mantanani Kota Kinabalu isolated, o shore, the

ff

SEA

CHINA SOUTH Danum Valley Arrive in (if you plan on diving) Sungai Kinabatangan, the Semporna Archipelago in places like before you should ideally be booked and Mt Kinabalu – accommodation at the latter Now a little over a week into your trip, head east to a little Now If you decide to climb SARAWAK to both dive and do the Danum or Maliau, cut out the days allotted for exploring northwest cut allotted out the days to both dive and do the Danum or Maliau, Sabah above. the and give these destinations the time they deserve, budget in and home stays out this way. Relaxing in these two spots could easily two Relaxing in these out this way. and home stays decide – do you want to Now sanctuary. After our arboreal cousins get watching fed in a wildlife reserve, trysanctuary. to spot them in the wild during a river cruise down the get to Sabah. Whilst in KK, sure to eat at the make from Kota Belud) and from Kota 20 Days 20 Sabah Around Mari Cultural Village Mari taste of the cultures, landscapes and animal life you’re about to encounter about to encounter taste of the cultures, landscapes and animal life you’re on the KK waterfront your capital. Sabah’s you leave rest you’ll of and the day the climb itself, need for the mountain – there’s or three days two afterwards! Whetherthe highest mountain in Borneo or not, give yourself a few you climb to explore northwestdays Sabah. In lage, while in and o right, the famous Sunday right, the famous Sunday g Ulu n SABAH o . Next , not far ying cof- fl

É nal Park o #÷ #f #f #_ KALIMANTAN Nati

Belaga Ulu Tembur É B RUNEI , a short ride from the BEGAWAN SARAWAK BANDAR SERI BANDAR Batu Niah Junction

#• Orang Ulu

#• Longhouse Belaga É

#•#•

#÷ #÷ É É #•

Miri

É g É Niah Caves National Park National Niah Caves nal Park

o #÷ Rejan #÷ Niah Caves #• Nati #• Kapit Batu Niah Junction nal Park o Similajau

Bintulu g É Nati

atan . A bone-jarring 4WD will get you down to the coastal

B , a bustling trading centre dating back to the days of the, a bustling trading centre dating back to the days , now developing a guest-house scene to complement its #• Sibu Miri and nearby nature sites for a few days, hop on the express and nearby nature sites for a few days, . Kapit SEA . Then hop a bus to CHINA SOUTH longhouses

, the surprisingly laid-back capital of the tiny, oil-rich sultanate of , the surprisingly laid-back capital of the tiny, É (Rejang River), ‘Borneo’s Amazon’. Board an early-morning ‘ Amazon’. (Rejang River), ‘Borneo’s Kuching , a mostly Chinese river port that’s long been the gateway to the mighty been the gateway long , a mostly Chinese river port that’s

; spend a day or two chilling out on the trails and beaches of oft-overlooked or two ; spend a day #f #f É Sibu #• Bintulu

Afterexploring ferry to Batang Rejang Kuching (express boat) upriver to n’ stop is the petroleum of city the daily bus – or the newspaper van – to take or two, lively dining options. After a day Bandar Seri Begawan by speedboat, car and then longboat to the pristine jungles of travel Brunei. Finally, Park National Temburong from several Orang Ulu bat colonies and prehistoric archaeologyvast caves, of city of city Park Similajau National fi White Rajas. If the water is high enough, continue on to back-of-the-beyondWhite Rajas. If the water is high enough, continue

Kuching to Brunei Two Weeks Two

24 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 25 – or Pulau Tanjung Tanjung SULAWESI in go Balikpapan alaki .

g

É

ait

Str , ideal for the adven-

Pulau Derawan r a

akass San M #• Archipela Meratus Mountains Meratus

Camp LeakeyCamp

É

Samarinda

É

É Balikpapan

É #• É #• nal

to trek among wild orangutans,

#• o #÷ É Park

Kutai

É É Nati Berau Mahakam River Mahakam R odyssey rich in shamans, longhouses and untains #• Sangalaki Archipelago Sangalaki o

Meratus É É Bandjarmasin , a must for experiencing local river culture, M #• River Mahakam and then head upriver to Kutai National Park National Kutai Banjarmasin KALIMANTAN KALIMANTAN Heart of Darkness , the gateway city to the city , the gateway – this is the best place in the world to see semi-wild orangutans. – this is the best place in the world to see semi-wild , springboard for the beautiful coral-fringed desert island of oating markets. Nearby are the majestic oating markets. Nearby fl Leaky Camp #• #• Pangkalan Bun Pangkalan

#÷ SARAWAK É

g

k Berau y or bus it to #• fl

Putin Samarinda

al Par

g Bun

n

n

o

i

ju , famed for its scuba diving, and the

Nat

Pangkalan Tan to y straight fl Fly to the town of Puting National Park National Puting there From the area is perfect for trekking, surrounded by some home stays river rafting and Dayak of the best scenery north from Banjarmasin to oil-rich in Borneo. Head Three Weeks Kalimantan Around including atmospheric straight on to turer seeking out their own Samarinda, bus it to wildlife. From sun bears, monitor lizards, giant squirrels and 250 bird species, then returnsun bears, monitor lizards, giant squirrels and to Samarinda and Derawan OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Daniel Robinson Coordinating Author, 20 Top Experiences, Welcome to Borneo, Need to Know, If You Like…, Month by Month, Itineraries, Adventure Borneo, Regions at a Glance, Sarawak, Brunei, Borneo Today, History, Environment & Wildlife, Dayak Peoples & Culture, Directory A-Z, Transport Daniel has been writing about Southeast Asia since 1989, when he researched the award-winning 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s guides to Vietnam and Cambodia. Since then he has taken a special interest in tropical rainforest habitats and the role that sustainable tourism can play in their conservation. In Borneo, Daniel is especially fond of strolling the Kuching waterfront at sunset, slurping Sarawak laksa, tramping through Gunung Gading National Park in search of giant Raffl esia fl owers, watch- ing orangutans cavort in Semenggoh’s jungle canopy and taking longboat rides up remote rivers. Daniel, who holds a BA in Near Eastern Studies from Princeton University, writes for a variety of magazines and newspapers, including the New York Times. Read more about Daniel at: lonelyplanet.com/members/danielrobinson Adam Karlin Sabah Adam has previously researched mainland Malaysia for Lonely Planet’s Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei guide and jumped at the chance to head to Bor- neo for some wild jungle fun. And oh what fun. In the course of his research he hitched a ride on a jeep into the Maliau Basin, burbled happily at cuttlefi sh in the Semporna Archipelago, tossed a fi sh head to a water monitor, got ankle deep in bat shit in caves and wasted on Johnny Walker in KK and came close to a perfect travel moment when he witnessed a wild orangutan swing over his head – with baby attached. Adam has researched and written over 20 Lonely Planet guides. Read more about Adam at: lonelyplanet.com/members/adamkarlin Richard Waters Kalimantan Richard was born in the north of England and seems to have spent most of his life escaping it. His fi rst travels were around Europe as a teenager, then Central America and US by camper van during the last days of the Gua- temalan civil war. These days he satisfi es his itchy feet writing for newspapers such as the Sunday Times, Independent, Telegraph and Daily Mail, and maga- zines Elle and CNN Traveller. Lonely Planet seems to send him to jungles rather a lot – if it’s not watching hornbills in Borneo it’s listening for tigers in Laos. To read more of his work and articles visit www.richardwaters.co.uk. He lives with his fi ancée and two kids in the Cotswolds. Read more about Richard at: lonelyplanet.com/members/richardwaters

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 2nd edition – July 2011 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 215 7 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs © as indicated 2011 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. Simon Richmond Gateway Kuala Lumpur Simon fi rst visited Kuala Lumpur, Melaka and Penang in 1996. Entranced by the brilliant blend of cultures and fantastic food, he has been a frequent visitor to Malaysia ever since. The award-winning travel writer and photographer has helmed Lonely Planet’s Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei guide for the past three editions, one of the many titles he has researched for the company and other publishers in the past decade or so; fi nd out more at www.simonrichmond.com. Read more about Simon at: lonelyplanet.com/members/simonrichmond Iain Stewart Gateway Jakarta Iain fi rst visited Jakarta in 1992, and has returned to the Big Durian many times since. He always seems to fi nd a new corner of this giant, challenging yet fascinating city on each trip. Iain’s covered Jakarta for Lonely Planet and several newspapers and magazines. Read more about Iain at: lonelyplanet.com/members/iainstewart Joshua Samuel Brown Gateway Singapore Joshua is an American-born expatriate currently living a professionally nomadic lifestyle in an undisclosed Central American Nation. A prolifi c traveller and writer, his features have appeared in an eclectic variety of publications around the globe, including the South China Morning Post, Business Traveller Asia, Clamor Magazine and Cat Fancy. Follow his strange adventures at his blog Snarky Tofu (http://josambro.blogspot.com). Read more about Joshua at: lonelyplanet.com/members/joshuasamuelbrown

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