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Survival Guide on the Road

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Survival Guide on the Road ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 34 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips Sabah Brunei Darussalam (p56) (p223) Sarawak (p145) Kalimantan (p240) NEXT TOP EXPERIENCES MAP PAGE PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 303 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP PD 3HUHPSXDQ 0 :RPHQ RUD 3ULD , 0HQ Directory A–Z ................. 304 SH 7DQGDV 0 7RLOHWV VWD 7XWXS &ORVHG Transport ........................ 316 WR :DQLWD , :RPHQ ZD Health .............................. 322 .H\:RUGV 2 Language ........................ 327 ERWWOH ERWRO EUH EUHDNIDVW VDUDSDQSDJL FK FROG GLQJLQVHMXN ,0 HJ Index ................................ 336 FXS FDQJNLUFDZDQ ,0 LFH GLQQHU PDNDQPDODP ULF IRRG PDNDQDQ Map Legend .................... 342 VD IRUN JDUSXJDUIX ,0 VX JODVV JHODV THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Daniel Robinson, Adam Karlin, Richard Waters, Simon Richmond, Iain Stewart, Joshua Samuel Brown Look out for these icons: Our author’s A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required GATEWAY KUALA Maliau Basin Batang Ai Region . 183 Conservation Area . 124 LUMPUR . .36 CENTRAL SARAWAK . 184 SOUTHWESTERN Sibu . 184 SABAH . 126 GATEWAY Batang Rejang . 188 SINGAPORE . .43 The Interior . 126 Bintulu . 194 Beaufort Division . 129 Similajau National GATEWAY Pulau Tiga National Park . 197 JAKARTA . 51 Park . 131 Niah National Park . 198 Pulau Labuan . 132 Lambir Hills National SABAH . .56 Park . 201 SARAWAK . 145 KOTA KINABALU . 57 Miri . 201 KUCHING . 148 AROUND KOTA NORTHEASTERN KINABALU . 73 WESTERN SARAWAK . 166 SARAWAK . 208 Tunku Abdul Rahman Bako National Park . 166 Gunung Mulu National National Park . 73 Santubong Peninsula . 170 Park . 208 NORTHWESTERN Kuching Wetlands Kelabit Highlands . 213 SABAH . 75 National Park . 172 Ba Kelalan . 218 Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu Semenggoh Nature National Park . 75 Trekking in the Kelabit Reserve . 173 Highlands. 218 Around Mt Kinabalu . 85 Annah Rais Limbang Division . 219 Northwest Coast . 87 Longhouse . 173 Offshore Islands . 91 Gunung Penrissen & BRUNEI EASTERN SABAH . 92 Vicinity . 174 DARUSSALAM . .223 Kubah National Park . 175 Sandakan . 92 BANDAR SERI Sepilok . 99 Matang Wildlife BEGAWAN . 224 Centre . 176 Sandakan Archipelago . 102 TUTONG & BELAIT Bau & Environs . 177 Sungai Kinabatangan . 103 DISTRICTS . 235 Lundu . 178 Lahad Datu . 109 Tutong . 235 Gunung Gading National Jalan Labi . 235 Danum Valley Conservation Park . 179 Area . 110 Seria . 236 Sematan . 180 Tabin Wildlife Reserve . 112 Kuala Belait . 236 Telok Melano . 181 Semporna . 113 Tanjung Datu National TEMBURONG Semporna Archipelago . 115 Park . 181 DISTRICT . 236 Tawau . 120 Talang-Satang Bangar . 237 Tawau Hills Park . 124 National Park . 182 Pulau Selirong . 238 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book. On the Road Batang Duri . 238 Peradayan Forest Reserve . 238 Ulu Temburong National Park . 238 KALIMANTAN . 240 WEST & CENTRAL KALIMANTAN . 243 Pangkalan Bun . 243 Kumai . 245 Tanjung Puting National Park . 246 Palangka Raya . 249 Sebangau National Park . 252 SOUTH KALIMANTAN . 252 Banjarmasin . 252 Around Banjarmasin . 256 Kandangan . 257 Negara . 257 Loksado . 257 Around Loksado . 258 EAST KALIMANTAN . 259 Balikpapan . 259 Samboja Lodge . 263 Samarinda . 264 Kutai National Park . 268 Tenggarong . 269 Sungai Mahakam . 269 Upper Mahakam . 272 Berau . 273 Pulau Derawan . 276 Tarakan . 277 › Borneo 11°00’E Mt Kinabulu Highest peak in e# Southeast Asia (p75) 0200km 0100miles Maliau Basin Truly untouched ELEVATION rainforest (p214) 2000m 1500m S O U T H Gunung Mulu 1000m C H I N A National Park 500m S E A Vast caverns, millions of 200m 5°N bats, trekking (p208) 100m 0 Bako National Park Natuna Proboscis monkeys, pitcher Lambir Hills Besar plants and beaches (p166) National Park Island #÷ Niah Caves National Park ÷# Anambas Similajau Archipelago Kuching National Park #÷ Stylish and sophisticated Bintulu#\ Midai (p148) Mukah Island #\ Belaga #\ #\ Dalat Rafflesia Flower SARAWAK See it at Gunung Gading i t Sibu g #] MALAYSIA r a Bitangor un National Park (p179) S e r a s a n #\ S t Bako Sarikei \# #\ Kanowit Rej National Park Batang Sematan #\ ÷# Telok #\ Kabong Gunung Gading Datu ÷# Pusa #\ as Hulu R National Park #^ u a #\ Kuching Bandar nge \# Sambas Bau Sri Aman Kap#÷ #÷ #\ Danau Betung #\Serian Pemangkat#\ Annah Rais \# Sentarum Kerihun ÷# Lubok\# National National Singkawang ]# Benkayang Park #\ Semenggoh Antu Park Tembelan Nature Kapu as Archipelago Reserve #\ Mempawah \#Tanjung Sungai Sanggau Equator #\ #\ Pontianak ]# Sintang \#Rambai ge aner Ran Semenggoh Bukit Baka Schw Nature Reserve Bukit Raya Telukbatang #\ National Park #÷ Semi-wild Kualakurun ÷#Gunung Palung Tumbangjul #\ orangutans (p173) Maya National Park \# Sungai Tumbangsamba Islands \# Sukadama #\ Karimata Nanga #\ Kudangan Islands Bay Ta ya p Kasungan #\ P Kualakuayan #\ Ketapang #\ e \# K a r i m a t a m Bangka Petakbehandang Island S b t r a i t u Pangkalan a #\ #\ Kendawangan Bun n Sampit SUMATRA \# g #\Tandjungpandan Sebangau INDONESIA Sukamara #\ Tanjung Puting National #÷ Belitung National Park Park Island Kumai ÷# Kotawaringin Bay Bay #\ Tanjung Puting Kualapembuang Sebangan National Park Bay Spot gibbons and orangutans from a boat (p246) J a v a S e a Top Experiences › 11°30’E Pulau Balambangan 12°00’E Pulau Banggi Pulau Cagayan Kudat Malawali \# Kpg Datong Sulu Island Pangutaran #\ Pulau Island Kota Jumbongan S u l u Belud Mt Kinabalu Tunku Abdul Rahman #\ R(4095m) S e a National Park #÷ Telok Jolo Kota Kinabalu #^ SABAH Labak ÷# Turtle Islands Island Ranau Jolo #\ #\ Beluran National Park #\ Parang #\ Crocker Range #] Sandakan Pa #\ #\Ta m b u n a n National Park par Siasi ÷ R Mt Trus Madi #\ Pulau # Tawitawi (2642m) Sungai Island Sias Labuan #\ Keningau Island Lahad BANDAR SERI Telok #\ Maliau Basin Brunei #\ Te nomConservation Kinabatangan÷# Datu PHILIPPINES 5°N BEGAWAN Sipitang #\ #\Tungku _# #\ ÷# Area Tu to ng#\ #\ Danum Valley Telo k #\ Kuala Conservation Lahad Da Seria Lawas \# Sapulut tu #\ Limbang To mani Area #\ Labi ÷#Ulu Temburong Kalabakan#\ #\ Kinabatangan ]# Semporna Miri National #] Safaris R Park Tawa u Sebatik Is BRUNEI #÷ Gunung Mulu ÷# land River banks teeming ) Nunukan Gunung Mulu (2377m Sebuku Timur Sebuko with animals (p103) National Sembakung Island Bay Park National Sungai Kelabit Park Bunyu Island Highlands Tarakan Is land Poring Hot Springs \# Tarakan Scalding and soothing ram Sekatak (p85) a #÷ Bay B Ta n j ung #\ C e l e b e s Kayan Selor S e a Mentarang National n Pula u Danum Valley a Derawan Park y #\ Range a Ta njung Sangalaki Primeval jungle, K Berau #] Batu Archipelago pygmy elephants, Tidung orangutans (p110) Iran Semerut#\ Estuary Sungai Samb aliung Mou Derawan & the ntai Sangalaki Archipelago ns Beautiful islands #\ Muarawahau Sangkulirang (p276 & p273) KALI MANTAN #\ INDONESIA Kutai Sangkulirang National #÷ Bay Kelabit Highlands Park Cool air, smiles, great trekking (p213) #\Bontang Longiram #\ Equator Te n g ga rong #\ ]# Samarinda Palu #] #\ Muarateweh #] o Balikpapan t i Balikpapan r Bay a a r B Adang Bay #\Ta nahgrogot Apar Bay a i t r Palangka a k a s s SULAWESI ]# S t #\ M Raya Sungai Amuntai INDONESIA \# Kandangan Pegunungan Meratus Rantau #\ Forested peaks, Pegunungan Banjarmasin #\ misty rivers (p257) #] Meratus Kotabaru ]# Martapura Sebuku #\ Island Pagatan #\ Pelaihari Laut ]# #\ Island Parepare Batakam 22 Itiner- aries SOUTH CHINA Bako SEA Kuching National Gunung Gading Wetlands Park National Park National Park #÷ #÷ #÷ É É É É É #• Kuching É É #• Bau É Wind Cave & #• #÷• Semenggoh Fairy Cave Nature Reserve SARAWAK #• Annah KALIMANTAN Rais One Week Kuching Excursions Spend your fi rst day in Kuching picking up the vibe of the city’s kaleidoscopic mix of cultures and cuisines. Explore the shophouses of Chinatown, ride a tiny passenger ferry to the English Renaissance-style Fort Margherita, and take a sunset stroll along the Waterfront Promenade. If it’s Saturday, head to the Weekend Market in the afternoon; if it’s Sunday, visit in the morning. And if a giant Raffl esia fl ower happens to be in bloom in Gunung Gading National Park, drop everything and rush over before it rots; on the way back explore the Wind Cave and the Fairy Cave. On other days, combine a daytime excursion with an evening enjoying Kuching’s fi ne eateries and chic but laid-back nightlife. Spend a half-day spotting orangutans at Semenggoh Nature Reserve, then drive further inland to the longhouse of Annah Rais, where you can stay overnight. Take a boat to Bako National Park, keeping an eye out for proboscis monkeys, macaques and pitcher plants as you hike around the peninsula, or spend the sunset hour cruising around Kuching Wetlands National Park, alert for fi refl ies, crocs and proboscis monkeys. #•Pulau É 23 SOUTH Banggi É #f CHINA É SEA Kudat #• Pulau #f Mantanani #• É SULU SEA #fÉ É #• Kota Belud PLAN YOUR TRIP Tuaran #•#• É É RMt Kinabalu Kota É (4095m) #f Kinabalu#• #• Sepilok Orang-Utan Ranau #• Rehabilitation Centre PHILIPPINES Sungai Kiabn atangan É ‚ •#Sungai SABAH Kinabatanguan É É ITINERARIES #• É Danum Valley Maliau Basin #• Conservation Conservation Area CELEBES Area SEA SARAWAK É Semporna #• #f Semporna #•Archipelago KALIMANTAN 20 Days Around Sabah Arrive in Kota Kinabalu (KK) and give yourself two days to pre-book accommodation in places like Sungai Kinabatangan, the Semporna Archipelago (if you plan on diving) and Mt Kinabalu – accommodation at the latter should ideally be booked before you get to Sabah. Whilst
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