The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2010 2
Editorial | Haukur S Magnússon Coverphoto by: Hörður Sveinsson The Reykjavík Grapevine www.hordursveinsson.com Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík Stylist: Ellen Loftsdóttir www.grapevine.is Make up: Steinunn Þórðardóttir [email protected] Published by Fröken ehf. www.froken.is Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Association - www.saf.is Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. Editorial: +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Advertising: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] MUSIC Publisher: & +354 540 3601 / [email protected] NIGHT Publisher: LIFE Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Editor: Haukur S Magnússon / [email protected] TRACK OF THE ISSUE Journalist: Rebecca Louder / [email protected] Download your Contributing Writers: free copy at grapevine.is Birkir Fjalar Viðarsson Björk James G. Rice Freyja Haraldsdóttir Haukur Már Helgason Dr. Gunni Catharine Fulton James Ashworth Íris Erlingsdóttir Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl Reykjavík, I love you Bob Cluness TRACK OF THE ISSUE Egill Helgason Haukur’s 24th Editorial Valur Gunnarsson Sóley Anna Andersen Sophia Van Treeck Theatre Island Alexander Roberts It’s true, Reykjavík. I love you. You’re not even is really, really good – and most of the artists are Shauna Laurel Jones bringing me down or anything. I just love you. excellent company, smart and thoughtful people. ssoolleeyy Paul F. Nikolov Thanks for being all you are. I love your vagrants, your punkers and your fancy Download Theatre Island Editorial Interns: You know, I think you’re awesome for all sorts rich people that think that class may be purchased. at www.grapevine.is Alexandra Young/ [email protected] of reasons, and even though we often have our I love your immigrants. I am one my self. We all Sophia Van Treeck / [email protected] Stephanie Orford / [email protected] Pianist and singer Sóley Stefánsdóttir has been playing her differences, I suspect my feelings for you will never try and come together and do our best to enrich you On-line News Editor heart out with Seabear for the past few years, and has now really change. And what couple doesn’t quarrel from with our different outlooks and cultures. I know you Paul Nikolov / [email protected] time to time? don’t want to be a drab monoculture anyway, right? branched out on her own. She just released her debut album, Food Editor: You are rainy, and you are constantly windy. I know you love your immigrants, Reykjavík. They Theatre Island, and is touring in support of it with... Seabear. Catharine Fulton They are a big happy family indeed. Her album is full of sweet, You keep my feet in a constant state of wet, soggy love you right back. dreamy acoustic tunes, which transport one into fantasy Art Director: awfulness. You are an ugly, sprawling town, and you There’s so much more. But I’ve gotta go. children‘s novels and dark magical forests. Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] are often mean and unforgiving. And I think you are Design: Páll Hilmarsson / [email protected] beautiful, and love you with all my heart. I love you, Reykjavík. You guys need to get that album, stat. Unless you only like Jóhannes Kjartansson / www.joi.is I love your people and your wet streets, the way dubstep or something. In which case you should go buy some Photographer: you smell of trees sometimes and walking around One last thing: We really shouldn’t be selling off dubstep tracks. Anyway, as a teaser Sóley has graciously Julia Staples / juliastaples.com you at night, exploring weird neighbourhoods I (or giving, really) our natural resources to folks that offered to provide us all with the album’s title track, a really beautiful melancholy tune about a dreamlike voyage. It‘s Sales Director: never even knew existed. very blatantly lie to our faces, and have been caught Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] totally worth the listen, and if her elven voice doesn‘t melt your I love your music. Your musicians and your doing that repeatedly. It seems so obvious. Guðmundur Rúnar Svansson / [email protected] icy heart, then you are made of stone. But treat the tune with bands; your concerts and your clubs. I love that I Distribution: care – it has been lodged in our collective brains for a month can go out every single night of the week and catch [email protected] now. Good thing it’s all awesome and stuff. Proofreader: performances from totally different, totally awesome Jim Rice acts on all of them. Some of your music is of course pretty horrible, but most of it seems honest anyway. Comic | Hugleikur Dagsson Press releases: [email protected] I love that. Submissions inquiries: I love your food, even the awful stuff. I love that [email protected] it’s there. You have some really nice restaurants, you Subscription inquiries: know. Furthermore, those of your inhabitants that +354 540 3605 / [email protected] I’ve gotten to know in the eight or nine years since General inquiries: [email protected] I moved here from Ísafjörður (a town I love equally, Founders: if not more) are all very skilled chefs – and they love Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, to throw dinner parties. These people are a credit to Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, you, Reykjavík, as they would be to any town. Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, I love your overpriced, under-supplied grocery Valur Gunnarsson stores. Whenever I grocery shop abroad all that The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by variety freaks me out and I have no idea what to buy Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and so I just end up getting beer (yes, Reykjavík, other fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine cities have beer in their grocery stores. You should may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written maybe look into doing that). permission of the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Seyðis- I love your tiny airport. It’s cute, and it connects fjörður, Borgarnes, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key locations you to the rest of the island, and it makes sure the along road #1, and all major tourist attractions and tourist ocean view from downtown isn’t blocked off by any information centres in the country. of those tall and ugly that have been sprouting all You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. (No articles in the over you like so many pus-filled pimples. Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are I love your art, and your artists. Some of the art the writers’ own, not the advertisers’).
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MOST AWESOME LETTER Sour grapes A buncha POLAR BEER for your thoughts We're not gonna lie to you: we really love us some beers. Some folks would call it a problem, but beer never gave us any problems. In fact, over the years, it's solved most of 'em. A frosty glass of cold, frothy, bubblicious, golden-tinted and stuff beer has consistently failed to let us down. In the immortal words of the once- reputable Homer J. Simpson: "Mmm... Beer..." Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to: Now, since we're real pleasant and giving folks here at the Grapevine, we [email protected] thought we'd share some wonderful POLAR BEER with you, our readers. Not only that, you're also getting the gift of social life with it. So here's the deal: our most awesome letter of each issue (henceforth, or until the good people of POLAR BEER decide they don't want to play along anymore), we will be providing our MOST AWESOME LETTER scribe with twelve frothy POLAR BEERS, to be imbibed at a Reykjavík bar of their choice (so long as that bar is 4 either Bakkus or Venue). If y'all's letter is the one, drop us a line to collect. Give us your worst: [email protected] Letters (Light) Dear Sirs: MOST AWESOME LETTER: I am writing you to find out how I can write I usually dont get up early in the morning being a night owl by nature but i made an exception the poor gentleman who had to put his hors- this morning and got out of bed before 6 a.m....driven out of bed is more like it as i was having es to sleep, in the article, "We Are Drowning a nightmare...dont gettem to often but when i do if i go back to sleep i just fall right back into In Ash". His name is Finnur Tryggvason. I the same damn nightmare right where i left off so fuck that shit i hit the deck had some kinda wish to send him my condolences and how breakfast then got onto the computer. terribly sorry I am for his misfortune. It is I had received a letter from a freindly computer egghead warning me not to open up any obvious from the photos that those horses emails from Landsbankin ´The Icelandic National Bank ' the bank i do my meager business were adored and were beautiful, and I can- with. Evidently...so i was informed ...some cyber hood or gang is sending folks emails posing not imagine a more awful thing to have to do as Landsbankin in order to phish peoples bank info and as a bonus you get a free virus in yr than to put them to sleep. If you could for- computer that fucks it up like some kinda cyber syph or clap. ward me his email, or his physical address, Welcome to the 21st century i thought to myself. I had already grasped what Bill Burroughs so I could send him my thoughts, I would ap- was onto about words or the WORD being a virus that mutates and evolves. I stopped getting preciate it. I live in Anchorage, Alaska, and flu shots years ago...last time i had a flu shot it gave me the flu...flu viruses , biological viruses have volcanoes close by to where I live. We are quick to mutate and evolve...if we concoct a shot to block a strain of flu the virus eventually had Mt Redoubt erupt last spring, and I had fiqures out how to get past it...it mutates...it evolves...spanish flu , monkey flu , bird flu , goat to keep my 3 cairn terrier dogs inside. flu , pig flu , flu flu and so on. I am so sorry for all the suffering of Guess what? This is the way it works in the cyber world as well...yeah i´m gonna hack you your people in Iceland regarding the volca- up bitch!!! cyber hood drools on his keyboard concocts a computer flu that will eventually eat nic eruption. I hope that the lifestock losses his own computer...Matrix? Ha!!! Just wait and see what happens when the virus gets into his are not great, and are minimal. I extend my brain/biological computer...welcome to the 21st century where we rely more and more on com- friendship and prayers to those hurting, puter technology. We are advancing so fast in this game many of us thought the whole thing and that I wish them to know that there are was gonna collapse year 2000 sending airlines , satelites , rockets , communication systems those in the United States who are praying into a state of chaos. for them, and that they are not going through I was so stoned on new years eve 2000 that i thought to myself ' This is so cool. ' I climbed this experience alone. up on the largest hill in Reykjavik just before midnight to have the best possible view when all hell breaks loose but alas midnight passed by with nary a bang nor whimper. Very truly yours, Maybe i will live to see the great cyber plague , the collapse of so called modern civiliza- Rebecca T Janelli tion, the developement of telepathic communication wiping out the word and the lie...perhaps even a cure for aids the birth of a new sexual revolution...i think that’s what they called it back Dear Rebecca, in the sixties hahaha!!!!!! Evolution , revolution...who thinks up this stuff ? THE BIG BANG theory.... Thank you for your letter and for your concern. The Cosmic Orgasm...Le Petite Morte...all this is way to much to think about. My biologi- We have received several letters like yours since cal hard drive only has so many bytes and i need all of them just to walk , breathe , make coffee, the eruption made world news, and we must say tie my shoes etc. that each and every one of them is very touch- Do let me know if you hear about any new viruses. I´d like to know before it outsmarts us... ing, as these are heartfelt and emphatic missives mutates , evolves...Jeeeeeeeez is it possible that WE are a virus!?* Ok , Ok....i gotta cut this out that sorta make one believe there is hope yet (the now...i need to chill , kick back and defrag. fact that pretty much not a single human was harmed by the eruption is beside the point – it’s Michael Odin Pollock the thought that counts). Brother M We can’t really give you Finnur’s address (curious folks may read the article in question www.myspace.com/michaeldeanodinpollock on our website), but maybe he’ll stumble upon this issue and drop us a line. Dear Michael, In any case, thank you and everyone else who’s written in with their concerns and wor- As anyone can tell you, immunisations will give you a little flu. Maybe you just have a shitty immune ries. They mean a lot, and make clear that we Cooking on Earth’s system? Anyway, you should probably get more sleep. You seem a little opposed to legal pharmaceu- should all strive to care more about one another ticals, so may we suggest some nice herbal tea? and offer warm thoughts across oceans during times of trouble. Fire … But listen man, we love the rant. It still sounds like you’ve been reading too many William Gibson novels. There is probably a long way to go before all the TechWars and CyberPlagues and interweb LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE hoodlums take over all our lives (unless Facebook is planning a new widget or something), so don’t be so freaked out all the time. Chill out with some free beer instead. Will be studying listfræði at HÍ next year. YOU ARE A VALUABLE RESOURCE, SIRS BTW, Isn’t this like the second time you score free beer off us? Good job, Pollock! AND MADAMS. And I enjoy reading you after being yelled at by bosses and art dealers and various wealthy people. tally wrong and just as bad as doing heroin and 31 different beers entered into two categories, WON’T SOMEONE PLEASE THINK ABOUT with a judging panel including both icelan- David Nogman THE CHILDREN?!? Anyway, you’ll be happy to dic brewers and wine tasters, along with know some of our banksters are now in shack- cheese and coffee connoisseurs and even a Dear David, les. No bankster-coke for them anytime soon guest brewer flown in from Norway. We'll be Why are y’all getting yelled at by so many folks? discussing the results a bit more, and some We don’t know what you do, but it sounds Thanks for the interesting "interview" with of the beers will be available for tasting, like coming here for school will be a welcome Anna the landi girl. A good read. Despite which should be good fun. change. Icelanders never yell at each other. Ha. what Anna may have said or believed, dis- Sorry for the short notice, but I only Plus, all the wealthy people here are getting tilling is most definitely illegal, even for picked up the new grapevine yesterday. put in jail or have Interpol warrants out for their personal use. Fermenting is a much greyer If you want more info about fágun, you arrest. It’s pretty funny, at least if you work at a area however. As best as I have been able to can head over to www.fagun.is listings magazine and don’t have a nickel to your deduce from the laws, it's technically illegal name. LOVE YOU TOO! to brew anything over 2.25%, but if you ring Cheers, up the police and ask, they will tell you that it Karl P Editor: is OK to brew, but not to distill. And selling is definitely out, regardless. Hey Karl, I'd always wanted to visit Ijsland (blame Jules Law aside, if you're interested in continu- Verne for that), and finally took the opportu- ing the theme in your next, or future issues, thanks for the correction, smartass. DJÓK! nity for a few days this month. I didn't get tomorrow night (Monday 10 May) Fágun, the Anyway, your club sounds interesting as hell. out of Reykjavik very much, but your wonder- icelandic home brew society, (Or fermentol- We’ll make sure to try and cover it sometime, if ful city and its people were a thrill. I have ogy society really, we make wine and cheese we ever manage to sober up from all that illegal a new hip, and central Reykjavik's size and and jogurt and things too) is having one of landi. navigability were perfect for me...not to men- their monthly meetups. It's at Vínbar, from tion the food and very good Ijslandic beers. I 8pm. was saddened to read in your recent issue that Of note is that on May 1, we had the first your government seems to spend more time ever icelandic home brew competition, with hunting down cannabis than rogue bankers (boy, does that sound America-local!), but it didn't keep a fellow (we're both in our mid- 60s) in a downtown bar from slipping me a Dear friends, very nice bud. I'll be back...and, by the way, I loved Mehdi Assem's letter in that particular I can no longer remain silent on the very pressing subject that is the … is Delicious number. selling off of Iceland's nature. Arthur Wicks I hereby challenge the government of Iceland to do everything in its Seattle power to revoke the contracts with Magma Energy that entitle the Canadian firm complete ownership of HS Orka. These are abhorrable Dear Arthur, deals, and they create a dangerous precedent for the future. They directly go against necessary and oft-repeated attempts to create a Thank you for your most awesome letter. new policy in the energy- and resource management of this nation.
Now, Did Jules Verne spell it ‘Ijsland’? How Warmly, odd. Anyway, we are glad you enjoyed your time spent over on our island, and that you man- Björk Guðmundsdóttir aged to score some bud, even though that’s to- Wake Up Reykjavík! MAKE YOUR VOTE COUNT IN THE FIGHT AGAINST UNEMPLOYMENT
The Social Democratic Alliance is the only political party that o ers a Did you know that the concrete action plan to create jobs and fi ght unemployment in Reykjavik. unemployment rate in It is time for the City to wake up, assume leadership and use all means to Reykjavik is highest in secure employment and speed up the economic recovery process. the age group of 16-24?
The Social Democratic Alliance will: 1. Lead a drive in innovation Did you know that the 2. Create growth by renovating the older quarters of Reykjavik Social Democratic Alliance 3. Arrange and implement a coordinated growth e ort along with is the only party that has the neighbouring municipalities actively engaged foreign 4. Double maintenance work and increase construction projects Reykjavik inhabitants 5. Support growth in the green sector in setting the political agenda? We must also support those who are currently seeking employment. It is crucial that they stay socially active. Otherwise, their situation might cause them severe emotional damage.
Learn more at xsreykjavik.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2010 Head on to www.grapevine.is/elections to read the other parties' answers! 6
Politics | Municipal Elections The Big Four Answer For Themselves But not really. They eventually might, though.
Words Haukur S. Magnússon & Paul F. Nikolov
Photography GAS
Us at the Grapevine love the city of Reykjavík. It son, chair of Samfylkingin’s, answers just made is surely our favourite city. We believe it is one a *BLINK* sound in our inbox – alas, we are now of the best places in the world to do a lot of the past our deadline, so we can’t really print them. things we like doing. Why else would we live Our printers get super angry if we are late turn- here? ing in our issues, so there just needs to be a cut- Since we love it so much, we certainly care off point. All of them knew the deadlines they about what goes on here, too, and how the place had to work with, and all of them said they would is run. And guess what, a week from now we’ll respond in time. be voting fresh new city officials in office. This Anyway. Below you may read the answers in mind, we thought we’d get representatives from good ol’ Einar, and the questions we posed from “THE BIG FOUR” (Iceland’s “mainstay” to the rest of them. We will be posting the other political parties, those that have been around parties’ answers on www.grapevine.is as soon as for a long time and are all part of our “political they come in (if they come in at all), so keep your establishment”) to answer some questions about eyes glued to that space to read those parties’ mis- their platform, their parties and their intentions sives to y’all. if voted into office. After all, we are read by a ONE LAST THING: there are several other bunch of folks that will be directly affected by the parties running in the 2010 Reykjavík munici- elections’ outcome, and who will be casting their pal elections. Besti flokkurinn (“The Best Party” votes for some of them come Election Day. – www.bestiflokkurinn.is) is fairly well repre- So we called all of them up, and all of them sented in our feature, where we try and squeeze a were quite enthusiastic to be interviewed. Oh platform and some sort of policy out of their lead- they had some quips. We said: “Can we please do er. Frjálslyndi flokkurinn (“The Liberal Party” this by phone, as we tried the e-mail thing for the – www.xf.is) are also running again, and former national elections last year and all the answers FF man Ólafur F. Magnússon is running under came in way too late, and they were all way too the moniker Framboð um heiðarleika og alman- long.” Some of them responded: “No, let’s do this nahagsmuni (“Campaign for honesty and public by e-mail.” To which we responded: “Alright, so interest” – they don’t seem to have a website). long as you promise to turn in before our dead- Then there is Reykjavíkurframboðið (“The Reyk- line, and if you promise to keep your answers su- javík campaign” – www.reykjavikurframbodid. per brief – a paragraph at most.” is), which is an independent campaign “for the “No problem,” they said. interests of Reykjavík-dwellers”. The Grapevine Well, the results are in. Or not, really. At the time loves small, independent parties and campaigns, of writing, the only person whose answers we and we urge you to check out their platforms. have is Einar Skúlason, the chair of the Progres- sive Party’s municipal team. Dagur B. Eggerts-
Do you think people trust the Progressives? Reykjavík is an extremely inconvenient city for those about defending our welfare system. In concrete Einar Skúlason Probably more so in rural areas than in urban ones. that prefer walking, biking and public transport to terms: how do you plan to do that? X-B – The Progressive Party I understand it, though. In the past, the leadership automobiles. One of your campaign promises be- of the party has taken a decidedly different direc- fore the last municipal elections was "improved Your current platform speaks a lot of the need for Interviewed by Paul F. Nikolov tion than the grassroots. Support for the Iraq inva- public transport" -- why weren't you able to keep decent city planning. Yet Reykjavík transformed into sion is a great example of this. I'd say over 90% of that promise? Is there a chance we'll see a coherent, a sprawling monster over the last two decades, most Why should the average Reykja- Progressives were against supporting the invasion, sensible bus schedule, bike paths and more localised notably while your very party was in power. To what vík voter choose your party? What yet (former Minister of Foreign Affairs) Halldór Ás- recycling facilities in Reykjavík if you get elected this can we attribute this newfound love for city plan- does it offer that the other parties grímsson signed on to it. I think this is because the time around? ning, and what are your immediate plans to imple- do not, in terms of platform, policy, leadership was more caught up in creating a harmo- ment it when in office? integrity and skill - i.e. what do you nious coalition with the Independence Party, and How would you account for the fact that Mayor Han- hope makes it the discerning voter's forgot the wishes of the people. My intention is to na Birna has an approval rating about twice that of Recent poll results indicate that the voters of Iceland party of choice? Keep in mind that make the leadership and the grassroots one and the her own party? have lost a lot of faith in the Icelandic party system, the other parties will likely respond to this question same. This is basically my last chance to do that. its politics and its officials. This includes your sup- in a similar manner to yourselves. Why should we Do you stand by your party member Vilhjálmur Vil- porters (or former supporters). Why do you think choose you over them? Do you believe the media has focused too much on hjálmsson's comments that "Golfing is a great past this is, and how do you plan on winning the public's Well for one, we don't see a need to raise taxes, nor conflicts within your party? time for the unemployed"? Was he misinterpreted or trust back? a need to raise the cost of services beyond what in- Yes. I think it's natural for people to disagree. In did he really mean to say that? Why the golf course, flation requires. We have a three-year plan that was fact, I think it's a certificate of good health for party anyway? There are lots of previously committed- Your platform states that "welfare and jobs" were the passed in city hall, and we want to stick to that. Also, members to disagree with each other. It's good to to projects on the backburner due to diminishing best way out of our current economic hardship. In all we would like to allow people to affect how things have discussions on issues. It's when parties appear funds — how do you justify 230 million ISK for honesty, this sounds like an empty slogan or catch- are discussed. We are proposing a law whereby if unanimous that I think it's cause to worry. building a golf course? phrase, something that could have been uttered by 5% of city residents—regardless of age, we could every party in every campaign of the last few decades be talking about 14-year-old students here—sign a I want to give you a chance to clarify what you meant To be honest (and I hope you won't get offended), — so much politispeak. How is it not? What is the petition asking city hall to bring up a matter for dis- when you said that if a "þjóðstjórn"—where all par- The Independence Party isn't doing so great these plan? cussion, then we would be obliged to address that ties share power in city hall, instead of there being a days (to be fair, neither are the other parties). A lot matter. majority and an opposition—were to occur in Reyk- of people want to blame 2008's economic collapse Questions for the javík, you wouldn't like to see Hanna Birna as mayor. on your policies and officials, for instance. No one What have the Progressives done for the city that It's nothing personal. I also wouldn't want to see seems very excited about believing in you nowadays. Left-Green Party makes you proudest? Dagur (Eggertsson, Social Democrat candidate Do you feel like you lost the voters' trust? Why do you Children and teenagers having better chances to for mayor) or even myself as mayor in the event of think that happened? How do you propose to regain By Paul F. Nikolov take part in recreational activities. During the last a þjóðstjórn. If we had that kind of a situation, we your position as Iceland's most popular and trusted election, we proposed a discount card for recre- would need a non-politically-affiliated mayor. If party, and do you foresee that being an arduous task? Why should people vote VG? What ational activities (“frístundakort”), which gave par- we're creating a totally equal power-sharing system, sets you apart from any other party? I don't just mean in the sense of ideas ents 25,000 ISK per year for recreational activities. it would be too complicated and unrealistic for there to be a mayor from one of the parties. Questions for the or attitudes - what specific things We want to increase that amount to 40,000 ISK, as would you do, that no other party inflation has hit a lot of families hard. Also, I think Social Democratic Alliance would do? it was very important that my predecessor, Óskar Questions for the Bergsson, helped Hanna Birna become mayor. I By Haukur S. Magnússon To what do you attribute the current poll numbers, think that after conflicts within city council, and the Independence Party with regards to VG? switching back and forth of majorities, this move Why should the average Reykjavík created peace within city hall at last. By Haukur S. Magnússon voter choose your party? What does Many believe, as Progressive MP Eygló Harðardót- it offer that the other parties do not, tir pointed out, that VG is responding to the Magma Energy buy out late in the game. How exactly did VG To what do you attribute the Progressive Party's abys- Why should the average Reykjavík in terms of platform, policy, integ- fight the initial sale of share of HS Orka, and what mal polling numbers? voter choose your party? What does rity and skill - i.e. what do you hope did the party do after the sale was approved? The Best Party. I'm pretty sure they're taking sup- it offer that the other parties do not, makes it the discerning voter's party port from everyone. I actually expected more praise in terms of platform, policy, integ- of choice? When VG was in the ruling majority, what happened for our renewal, for our change of politics and poli- rity and skill - i.e. what do you hope to some of the party proposals, such as a better mass cies. I was pretty surprised when that didn't happen. makes it the discerning voter's party of choice? The other parties will likely respond to the above transit system, a better recycling program, and more I suppose it takes a long time to earn trust back, question in a similar manner to yourselves. Why affordable kindergartens? more than a few months or maybe even a few years. The other parties will likely respond to the above should we choose you over them? With the right-left-right swing between majorities in question in a similar manner to yourselves. Why city hall in the recent past, do you believe people have should we choose you over them? A lot of your campaigns, past and present, speak good reason to be wary of “The Big Four”? We’ll take you there! Day tourS to all the moSt excItInG PlaceS In IcelanD
re-99 - 18:00 Volcano tour SeaSonal 18-01
MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN
We head out of Reykjavík in a bus and travel east towards the South coast of Iceland. Passing through some quaint towns and villages before we head into Fljótshlíð valley, where one of our most famous Icelandic Saga took place. On the way our expert guide will tell all about Icelandic geology and geography to better prepare you for the wonder of an erupting volcano. We stop for approximately 1-1,5 hours at a site from where the eruption can be clearly and safely viewed and experienced. If you have always been fascinated by the beauty and the forces of nature, join our tour and experience perhaps a once- in-a-lifetime sight!
Children 0-11 years, free of charge. PrIce 9900 ISk Children 12-15 years, 50% discount.
re-04 - 09:00 re-44 - 09:00 re-24 - 12:30 the Golden circle Gullfoss - Geysir & Gullfoss - Geysir Direct
all year 09-17 langjökull Snowmobiling all year 12:30-18
all year 09-19 MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN THU FRI SAT SUN Don’t miss out on the fascinating experience the In one afternoon you spend your time Golden Circle gives you. Walk around the world Our Gullfoss – Geysir & Langjökull encountering across-section of Iceland’s famous Geysir area, where geysers explode and Snowmobiling tour puts you in touch natural wonders and geological pools of mud bubble. Visit the magnificent Gullfoss with some of Iceland’s most famous and phenomena: the historical Þingvellir waterfall along with a visit to Þingvellir national exciting natural phenomena. Piece de national park, Geysir geothermal area and park, the original site of the oldest existing parlia- resistance an exhilarating 1 hour snowmobile the amazing Gullfoss waterfall. ment in the world. ride accross enless white snowfields. Due to road conditions during the hardest A valid driver´s licence is required. winter months the stop at Þingvellir Book now on www.re.is Book now on www.re.is national park might be skipped. Book now on www.re.is
PrIce ISk PrIce ISk PrIce ISk 9800 Book now by calling 580 5450 24500 Book now by calling 580 5450 8600 Book now by calling 580 5450
relax at re-81 - 09:00 re-06 - 09:00 the Blue lagoon take a Walk on the Wonders of reykjanes all year FLEXIBLE the Ice Side & Blue lagoon 09-19 MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN all year Seasonal 09-17 MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN There is no better way to start or end your MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN Iceland adventure than by bathing in the Want to see and feel something completely Don´miss out on discovering bubbling famous Blue Lagoon. different? Why not take a walk on a glacier hot springs, dramatic lava fields, and experience a surface that you have migratory birding cliffs, lonesome For our very flexible schedule please refer never been able to walk on before! Take a lighthouses and last but not least the Blue to our brochures. tour with us and try something new - Lagoon*. a once in a lifetime experience for most. return *Admission to the Blue Lagoon is not incl. BuS Fare 3200 ISk Book now on www.re.is Book now on www.re.is Book now on www.re.is return BuS PrIce 19900 ISk PrIce 13500 ISk Fare anD Book now by calling 580 5450 Book now by calling 580 5450 Book now by calling 580 5450 aDmISSIon 6300 ISk
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This tour is perfect for all Saga enthusi- Get a detailed and comprehensive Iceland´s South coast is ideal for nature asts. On this tour we take you around introduction to Reykjavík´s past and lovers of all kinds. Spectacular scenery, the area where one of the Icelandic present. Reykjavík´s unique proximity to striking waterfalls, stunning views of Sagas took place - along with enjoying nature, with salmon river Elliðaá running glaciers, black lava sand coastline, spectacular landscape. Come and follow through it, green valleys and outdoor charming villages and impressive rock in the footsteps of the Vikings with us. swimming pools, makes this city second formations all day long. to none in the world. Book now on www.re.is Specialoffer* PrIce ISk Internet PrIce ISk Book now by calling 580 5450 3900 11200 PrIce 14500 ISk Book now on www.re.is online discount code: Book now on www.re.is PrIce ISk PrIce 15400 ISk 4900 GV150510
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Authorised by O Icelandic Tourist Board BSÍ Bus Terminal / 101 Reykjavík / 580 5400 / [email protected] / www.re.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2010 This article was co-authored by our most awesome proofreader, Jim Rice. He is a godsend, and continually prevents us from embarrassing ourselves more than we already do. 8
Article | Disability Rights Never Give Up The Grapevine talks with Freyja Haraldsdóttir about disability rights in Iceland
think—which is a good change—and starting to up. You don’t have any energy left to fight for it participate in research. A lot of effort has been put anymore. You just get so tired, even though you into study and research on independent living, and know the importance of it and that your life maybe it has altered disabled people’s lives, their way of sucks quite a lot because you don’t have the assis- thinking and how they feel about themselves. All tance. People still are just giving up because they this is really precious knowledge, which I believe make it so difficult. I believe it’s important for dis- is not used enough. abled people to have the opportunity to know more When I was 18 years old, I went to this confer- about their human rights, the social understand- ence that was held for people with the same impair- ing of disability and have peer support in the pro- ment that I have. At that time I was really scared cess of getting direct payments and personal as- of the future; scared of not getting assistance and sistance. The demand for independent living must scared of what would happen and where I would come from disabled people themselves because we end up. But I went there and I saw people who are the only ones who know exactly how we want were in the same position that I am in, and they it done, so to accomplish that we need to be aware had their personal assistants and they were work- of our rights and be empowered by each other. ing on studying and had moved away from home, and had gotten married and had children and were just living the same life as all other people. There I realised that if they could, then I should be able to, so that really gave me a lot of strength. So when I came back home, we started work- James g. Rice and Freyja Haraldsdóttir ing on getting the direct payments. I think for one julia staples and a half years there was nothing—there was no In March of 2007, Iceland signed (but did not rat- Independent living really just says that the society progress—they didn’t listen, they didn’t want to The UN Convention on the Rights of ify) the UN Convention on the Rights of Persons should make it possible for disabled people to live know what I really wanted; they kept telling me Persons with Disabilities was adopted in with Disabilities. One of the guiding principles just like non-disabled people. Instead of using the there were some great group homes I should look December 2006. As described by UN Enable, the of the convention is respect for “individual au- service that the service system offers, with direct at. No matter how many times I said ‘No, I am Convention is a ‘paradigm shift’ in the attitudes and tonomy, including the freedom to make one’s own payments you get some amount of money that you not interested, that’s not what I want,’ they kept treatment of disabled people, from “viewing persons choices.” Self-determination is one of the under- ‘cost’—if we can think of it that way—and then pushing me. I knew that if I would accept that, I with disabilities as ‘objects’ of charity, medical treatment and social protection towards viewing lying principles of the Independent Living Move- you can choose yourself how you spend the money would be sharing assistance with others. Then I persons with disabilities as ‘subjects’ with rights, ment (IL) which emerged out of the U.S. in the or in what way you want to use it to have some as- would always have to ask other people if it is ok for who are capable of claiming those rights and making 1970s. Disabled people were argued to be the most sistance. So you can have your own company and me to go to the shop, or go to school or wherever. decisions for their lives based on their free and informed knowledgeable about their own needs. Direct pay- hire your assistants. Or, like in Sweden, Norway I know people who live this way here in Iceland; consent as well as being active members of society.” ments became a cornerstone of the Movement so and elsewhere, you can go to this co-operative some of them sit the whole day sometimes wait- Of particular importance regarding the Independent Living Movement is Article 19, subsection a.) which that disabled people could freely choose and man- which is owned by disabled people and they will ing for someone to assist them with such small states: “Persons with disabilities have the opportunity age their own assistance, rather than relying on help you to take care of the payments, and offer things that it’s really, really sad. And they don’t get to choose their place of residence and where and with the state-managed services about which disabled peer support and courses—both for the employer to decide whether they eat dinner at 5 o’clock or 9 whom they live on an equal basis with others and are people have little say or control. However, direct and the assistants. You can also go to some private o’clock and they don’t decide when they go to the not obliged to live in a particular living arrangement.” payments are still not an official service option in companies and have this kind of support there. So toilet, and they don’t decide when they go shop- Iceland signed the Convention and its Optional Protocol on March 30, 2007. However, as of May Iceland. The situation for disabled people in Ice- you really just choose how you want to have it. ping. I mean, it’s just not living, it’s just being. of 2010, Iceland has ratified neither. To ‘sign’ the land regarding self-determination remains stub- I think first of all the existing service for dis- Then I met an advocate who had been assisting UN Convention “indicates the intention of a State bornly out of step with much of Europe and North abled people, like it has been through the years, is a young disabled man who lives independently in to take steps to express its consent to be bound by America. based on the medical understanding of disability. his home. So when the advocate came with me to the Convention and/or Optional Protocol at a later In recent years an IL Movement has emerged The system is complicated and is led by profes- a meeting it was harder for the Regional Office for date.” Ratification, in contrast, is somewhat more meaningful as it “legally binds a State to implement the in Iceland. Among their goals is to make direct sionals who really believe they know what’s best the Affairs of Disabled People to not give me some- Convention and/or Optional Protocol, subject to valid payments and user-led services a reality for all dis- for service users and their families. And they take thing that another man had. The advocate just said reservations, understandings and declarations.” While abled people, if they so wish. The Grapevine asked little account of the rights and needs of the users. what he wanted to say and he didn’t care what the signing the Convention is a step forward, signatories a key figure in the Icelandic IL Movement—Freyja The service providers are also assessing the needs, Office staff thought of him. And that’s really im- are bound to nothing more than ‘intentions.’ Though Haraldsdóttir—for some of her thoughts on what they are providing the service, and they are paying portant. When you have been in this business for Iceland does join the ranks of other notable foot- IL means, the importance of direct payments, and for it—so that explains a lot. So that’s one thing. many years you start to behave like they want you draggers such as the United States— and 59 others signatories—let us aspire to be like the other 85 nations her concerns for the future. Freyja is one of the And I think knowledge about the United Nations to behave, really. And you don’t say the things you who have ratified. If Vanuatu, Niger, Mali, Jordan, founding members of SSL (Samtök um sjálfstætt Convention and independent living has not been want to say because you’re afraid that they will Ecuador, and Bangladesh among others can, what are líf –The Independent Living Movement in Iceland) spread out enough, either to disabled people and get pissed off and give you even worse services. we waiting for? and is also a member of a work group whose goal is their organisations or professionals. So what I did was just assess my own needs. And For more information about the Convention and to start a co-operative for user-controlled personal that’s how it is today. And I don’t have it 24-7 even its Optional Protocol, consult http://www.un.org/ disabilities. assistance run by disabled people. She is currently You mention a lack of knowledge and understanding. though I need it. You always get less than you ask studying social pedagogy at the University of Ice- What factors are important in raising awareness of for. For those of you who prefer your information in a more land. these issues? concise format, try: Disability studies has been really important with Do people scale back their expectations because of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convention_on_the_ Can you explain what is meant by independent living, this. Disabled people are becoming louder and these frustrations? Rights_of_Persons_with_Disabilities. direct payments and user-controlled services? Why they are becoming more eager to have personal I feel that this is what is happening to many people are these things important for many disabled people? assistance and they are starting to say what they now. They wait and wait and people start to give
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Visit our sales office downtown at Lækjartorg or go to www.grayline.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2010 Egill Helgason is a man of many talents, in case you were wondering. Besides running a political talk show on Icelandic State TV, he a also runs a literary 10 programme there. And he blogs a lot for web-site Eyjan.is. Kudos to you, Egill.
Analysis | Egill Helgason, Political and Social Commentator Opinion | Íris Erlingsdóttir
Garðabær and Seltjarnarnes where popula- ties there is great resentment against politi- The Limits Of Money tion is more uniformly affluent and where cians who took money from the financiers “Money can’t buy me love.” John the Independence Party can rely on a sound and who are still clinging on to their seats. Lennon/Paul McCartney. majority every time there is a vote. This might be a great atmosphere for So in Reykjavík the Independence Party populists and demagogues, but surpris- I can understand a father can no more count on winning a clear ma- ingly their kind has not really showed up on working two jobs to support his family, a jority—those days have passed. After the the political scene, not yet anyway. Instead mother sacrificing her time to ensure that her children don’t starve. But once you’re last elections, after some very complicated Reykjavík now has a party led by Jón Gnarr, assured a basic subsidence (adequate food, manoeuvring, the party managed to form a Iceland's most popular comedian. The party shelter, and clothing), how much of your city government with the quite marginal Pro- calls itself Besti flokkurinn, “The Best Par- time can you sacrifice to your job before the gressive Party. The present mayor, Hanna ty”. impact on your family’s well-being becomes Birna Kristjánsdóttir, has done quite well; Jón Gnarr is a phenomenon in Iceland, negative? Where is the point of diminishing returns? she has a decisive personality, manages to a man who speaks volumes. He has created Apparently, we answered this question distance herself from unpopular decisions, television shows, movies, radio programs, in the wild times leading up to the kreppa. and is mostly free from the scandals that penned books and articles—always with According to a recent study (www. have shaken the nation. No wonder she is be- a spark of danger in it, Jón Gnarr's jokes rannsoknir.is/rg/english), Icelandic children ing named as a future leader of the party, and often seem to be on the verge of madness. and teenagers are happier now than they were when we were the richest country in due time, Prime Minister. Not everybody finds him funny, but he has on Earth. Although the researchers aren’t But at the same time her party is deeply a strong cult following. As a person he gives entirely sure why this would be, they unpopular. It is blamed for the corruption, the feeling of being rather obsessive; this lat- theorise that parents are able to spend Terrified Politicians recklessness, deception and lack of regula- est venture of his has been described as being more time with them, and less time working, tion, which led to the collapse of the economy. Kaufmanesque—in the vein of legendary US shopping, travelling, schmoozing, and trying to impress one another. Icelanders are heading into their second tion. The leaders of the party were brought Party leader, Bjarni Benediktsson, has ex- comedian Andy Kaufman. “Economic prosperity may come and elections since the economic collapse of Oc- up in Reykjavík politics; they almost invari- tremely low approval ratings. He is perceived go; that's just how it is,” Warren Buffett’s tober 2008. In April of last year, we had the ably were mayors of Reykjavík before they as having been too close to the financiers The best party? son Peter writes in his new book Life is parliamentary elections where the left won went on to become party leaders and prime who plundered the country. The party’s VP, The Best Party is formed around Jón Gnarr. What You Make it: Finding Your Own Path a resounding victory—since then we have ministers. This was, for example, the story of Þorgerður Katrín Gunnarsdóttir, was re- Most of the other members could be catego- to Fulfillment. “But values are the steady currency that earn us the all-important what is nominally the most left wing gov- Davíð Oddsson, the strong man of Icelandic cently forced to resign because of huge loans rized as artistic types, belonging to a crowd rewards.” ernment in the history of the republic. But politics for the last three decades. He gradu- her husband, a former handball star, received you could find hanging around in Reykja- And what were the values we were then the government is in a way a victim of ated from the law faculty of the University of when he was an employee of the Kaupthing vík’s more fashionable bars and cafés. Many teaching them? That the ridiculously circumstance: It is difficult to run generous Iceland, was mayor of Reykjavík, party leader, bank. of them have links to Icelandic pop star expensive clothes we bought for them could left wing welfare policies in a state that is PM and, lastly, head of the Central Bank of Björk. Number two on the list, Einar Örn make up for the times we couldn’t spend with them? That the evenings on the town practically bankrupt. The government is thus Iceland—a position which has strangely Every-party hurts Benediktsson, used to be a member of the with our co-workers were more important forced to follow a strict program dictated by been used to reward politicians on their way The situation is not much better in the other Sugarcubes. than quiet evenings together? That money the International Monetary Fund, stipulat- to retirement. parties. The social democrats, now leaders of The Best Party has no real policies to is the measure of all things? ing how it should cut down the huge budget And this was exactly the path of Geir the government, were also in government at speak of. They want to put a polar bear in the Fortunately, our children seem to be deficit and repay foreign debt. Hallgrímsson, a leader of the Independence the time of the collapse. The aforementioned Reykjavík ‘domestic animal’ Zoo. They de- wiser than we are. To be sure, some learned So in the course of a year, the present gov- Party, a generation older than Davíð Odds- Ingibjörg Sólrún Gísladóttir was then Minis- mand that Alþingi becomes free of drugs be- their lessons well, and will have one helluva time establishing some sense of balance fore 2020. They want to do all kinds of things ernment has become almost as unpopular son. He ended up in the luxury of the Central ter for Foreign Affairs and party leader. Since and self-worth now that the money is gone. as the former right/centre government that Bank, a black modern building towering over she was forced to leave politics her successor "for idiots." The parody is basically that the “Entitlement is the worst thing ever, and I presided over the economic collapse, which central Reykjavík and a rest home for politi- and present PM Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir has other parties are so boring that you can’t vote see entitlement coming in many guises,” was ousted after the so-called Pots and Pans cal veterans. But then Geir never had to deal seen her approval ratings plummet—she is for them. Peter Buffett writes. “Anybody who acts like Revolution of January 2009. The general feel- with an economic collapse, so his compe- now mostly linked to enforcing unpopular At the time of writing, polls indicate they they deserve something ‘just because’ is a disaster.” IMF policies and a deeply unpopular applica- might get up to 36 percent of the vote. That ing in the country is that politics are useless, tence was not really tested. But our kids understand that, although political parties are corrupt and politicians tion to join the European Union. She is not would give them six members on the Reyk- the world may be a hostile place, they’ll mendacious and irrelevant. Losing Reykjavík referred to as Holy Jóhanna anymore. javík council. This represents a total collapse always be alright as long as they have their For the Independence Party, Reykjavík was Even the Left Greens, who had no part for the old parties. They do not know how to family and friends. For most of our country’s Reykjavík as crown jewel also the lynchpin of a system of patronage in the collapse of the economy, are suffering. react. Do you answer a joke like this without existence, we were alone in the world, for all intents and purposes. All we had was one Politics are not helped by the fact that the where people got jobs, housing, permits, and The party is divided between loyalists who becoming ridiculous yourself? Or is this a another. Nearly all of us have been raised political parties—save for the socialist Left different rewards based on where they stood support party leader and finance minister joke: what will Jón Gnarr and his friends re- in a very egalitarian manner—we went Greens—had a very cosy relationship with in politics. If you wanted to enjoy the benefits Steingrímur J. Sigfússon and his pragmatist, ally do if they get elected? to the same schools, ate the same foods, the financiers who bankrupted the coun- of life in Reykjavík you had better support the pro-IMF policies, and a more militant, anti- Well, they will have to attend a lot of meet- watched the same shows, listened to the try. Politicians acted as cheerleaders for the Independence Party—and so it was for a long globalist, anti-EU faction, led by Ögmundur ings. The inner council meets once a week, same music, and lived the same lives. We all cheered the Icelandic handball team in banksters, who repaid them with donations time. Jónasson, who was Minister of Health for a the larger council meets every two weeks. the 2008 Olympics. We are all glued to the into party coffers and money gifts to indi- This started changing in 1994 when the short while until he decided to leave the gov- There are a lot of committees dealing with screen every year when the Icelandic entry vidual politicians, parliamentarians and left wing parties in Reykjavík managed to ernment. The party, which looked so cohe- all aspects of Reykjavík life. There is an un- in Eurovision performs. We all feel a rush of members of the Reykjavík city council. There mount a challenge to the Independence Par- sive in its long years of opposition, is now in wieldy bureaucratic system for a city this size. pride every time an Icelandic singer, actor, are demands for several politicians to resign ty in the guise of Ingibjörg Sólrún Gísladót- total disarray. There is practically no money to speak of; or writer makes the big time. I suppose, too, that this is why the Black because of this, but so far they have resisted. tir, a tough feminist, then a member of the basically all the parties agree that the school Report hurts so bad. It shows the dark side Thus, Icelanders’ disgust with traditional so called Women's List. At that time a person Comedy with a spark of danger system and welfare programs have to be pro- in each of us; it makes us ask, “What if I politics keeps on growing. of extraordinary self confidence, she seemed In Iceland, Reykjavík elections have always tected as tax revenues go down. There is little had the opportunity? Would I have acted The municipal elections on May 30th the first politician to be unfazed by the power been a big deal, a test of strength between left room left to do funny or nice things. So after differently?” arouse no passion in the population. The and the traditions of the Independence Party and right. But now the situation is different. the election it is possible that Jón Gnarr's joke Our nation is healing, children first. Now that our demons are out in the open, we can elections are held all around the country, which up to that point had been a source of People generally dislike the political parties; might turn out to be a bit long-winded. fight them together. Like our children are in townships large and small, but the great- inferiority complexes on the left wing. in a way they seem pitiful. The parties have teaching us, we re-establish our internal est prize is Reykjavík. Reykjavík was always Under Ingibjörg Sólrún the left managed looked very cowed during the election cam- compasses and recalibrate our society’s the jewel in the crown of the Independence to hold on to Reykjavík for three consecutive paign; they are handing out their balloons, true worth. We didn’t really need all that Party, which has dominated Icelandic politics elections. This was not excessively due to the flowers and hot dogs, but the general feeling money, but—more than ever—we really need since the 1920s. success of their policies, for the demograph- is that they feel ashamed of themselves. It has For decades the party reigned supreme in ics have also changed. Many conservative been very difficult to get the party faithful to Egill Helgason Reykjavík with a clear majority in every elec- voters have moved to outlying towns such as volunteer for election work. Within the par- JULIA STAPLES
Science World Experimental nature park at The Nordic House April 9 - September 30, 2010 Come, try, experience! Soap bubbles table | Ice princess | Water blow | Sun radiator | Ball bench | Trembling well | Wave cradle Admittance to the park is free. Registration + 354 551 7030.
FJÖREGG Barnamenning í Norræna húsinu At Fjölmenningarskólinn we build on 17 years of experience ICELANDIC language courses for Foreign Students Autumn 2010
Daytime studies: Many courses on offer intended for beginners and advanced students. Starting August 20 (autumn term – finishing in December). Applications for daytime studies deadline June 11. Price before deadline is ISK 20.100 pr. term or ISK 25.100 after deadline – take as many courses as you can for this fixed price. Distance studies: One course on offer: ÍSA492. Starting August 20 – finishing December. Applications before August 18. Price ISK 18.000 for the course. Evening studies: Four courses on offer: ÍSA1024, ÍSA2024, ÍSA3024 and ÍSA4024. Starting September 21 – finishing November 25. Applications should be sent in September. Price ISK 16.000 for a 60 lessons course (price includes a textbook).
Apply through e-mail to: [email protected]. Include kennitala, phone number and level of Icelandic (beginner, elementary, intermediate, advanced).
Fire is needed by the newcomer Whose knees are frozen numb; Meat and clean linen a man needs Who has fared across the fells.*
The Icelandic Sheep, Keeping the people alive since 874 AD.
*From the Hávamál, 1300 AD ÁJS
I c e l a n d i c Sheep Farmers [email protected] / photo: The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2010 We are afraid the lovely James might be jinxing us by play- ing the guessing-game like this. It's still a damn fine read. 12
Hot Topic | Political mountains Hot Topic | Volcanos
The Erupting Insurrection Is Eyjafjallajökull an anarchist volcano?
By one swift, decisive act, it has para- phe for a day or two. already amount to approximately the lyzed Europe’s airline industries for All this amounts—or so the the- whole unsettled IceSave debt. This, almost a week, delayed 64 thousand ory motivating the volcano obviously however, is merely so much national- flights (and counting), affecting mil- goes—to a wake-up call. ist propaganda, belittling the autono- lions of travellers, reminding a whole In the face of that wake-up call, my of independent actors and thwart- continent that geography and distance the volcano would hope that collateral ing the volcano’s more radical and still exist, while lessening the airlines’ damage, such as underpaid workers far-reaching agenda under a screen carbon footprint by an amount equal in Kenya, in the UK and elsewhere of natural mysticism and foreseeable to the annual output of several smaller losing their jobs, will channel their over-interpretation of coincidence. No, states combined, and possibly hinder- frustrations into a demand for radical this mountain may address all those ing the meagre 1% economic growth change, a system sustainable to hu- who hear it, but it acts only in its own The Unusual Suspects expected in the EU zone in 2010. mans and the rest of life, that would name, in defiance of all hierarchies Which of Iceland's volcanoes could blow next? Surely Eyjafjallajökull (“Ay! You fergot make livelihood and human dignity and orders, a defiance underlined in la yoghurt!” or just EJ for short) is an independent from whimsical market the details of its calculated side-ef- With the current eruption at Eyjafjallajökull ger an eruption. Whether the jökulhlaup anarchist. conditions and unsustainable means fects: deployment of arms to Afghani- rumbling on relatively steadily, produc- comes before or after the eruption, though, In the severely underreported stu- of travel. stan gets delayed, while soldiers on ing an ash cloud that continues to wreak they can often be pretty damn big. And dent uprisings throughout California their way back home on leave make a havoc with European air traffic, I thought it right now? Well, as with Hekla the internal last October, one of the novelties in Masked activism detour on train and ferry. may be interesting to take a look at some pressure is pretty much at pre-eruption their published materials was the dec- As other anarchist activists before other potential troublemakers living on this levels, and the sub-glacial lake is also ap- laration, rejuvenated from the sixties, it, the volcano does not reveal its A potential Stalin lies island. After all, Iceland is a land formed proaching its maximum height. You might to ‘demand nothing’: occupying and face—even underneath the hood of dormant almost entirely by volcanic processes, and only see an eruption here on the news, due there is on average an eruption every 3 to to its remote location, but it should still be paralyzing universities throughout the its smoke it shows only a mask, its The event is ongoing and remains 4 years—there's hardly a shortage of poten- quite a spectacle. state the students declared they made three craters resembling a distorted open for interpretation. Perhaps come tially active volcanoes. no particular demands, no structural version of Munch’s Scream, accord- next week, it will not be amusing at Biblical Katla reforms: ‘a free university in the midst ing to some interpreters. Having no all. Geologists tell us nothing about Trusty ol’ Hekla Our last volcano of interest is the one ev- of a capitalist society is like a reading particular face, no identifiable person what lies ahead, but musicologists in- First in our line-up is Hekla, the infamous eryone seems so worried about at the room in a prison; it serves only as a dis- or organisation behind it, the volcano sist that if this piece is composed, the Icelandic 'gateway to Hell'. Beautifully coni- moment —the legendary Keyser Söze of traction from the misery of daily life.’ stays out of reach of counter-strikes first two acts clearly have the structure cal from one side and similar in appear- Icelandic mountains, Katla. Katla sits right (Communiqué from an absent future” or retaliation. Unlike, for example, of a prelude and there must be more ance to an upturned boat from the other, next to Eyjafjallajökull, is much bigger, and with a penchant for producing spectacular history shows that it probably has some After the fall – Communiqués from France’s Tarnac 9, the group of young to come. Behind the corner the more fire fountaining fissure eruptions, Hekla kind of linkage to its neighbour—the last Occupied California). Published Feb- anarcho-communists who in 2008 easily pronounceable Mt. Katla lies is a magnificent looking mountain. But it three times Eyjafjallajökull erupted, Katla ruary 2010). Instead, paraphrases the were arrested on the basis of suspi- dormant, less of an anarchist, more has produced some quite large explosive followed suit within a couple of years. With volcano, we seek to channel the anger cion that they had written The Com- of a potential Stalin, purges and all. eruptions—in particular 1104 AD, and more a general historical trend of 1–2 eruptions of the dispossessed tourists and airline ing Insurrection (officially written by Its eruption might mean the end of recently a smaller but no less spectacular per century, and the last confirmed (and workers into a declaration of war. ‘the Invisible Committee’, available in Iceland. Last time it erupted it meant eruption in 1947. quite sizeable) eruption in 1918, you could English translation here)—a booklet the end of monarchy in France, which Since 1970, Hekla seems to have settled argue that we're 'overdue' a Katla eruption. into a pattern—quite an oddity in volcanolo- The volcano itself is capable of producing A precise operation urging action to interrupt the flows most of us have come to appreciate. gy, a science where nothing is ever predict- all sorts of dangers. The enormous 934 AD Now, sorry for the harsh interpre- of capital more or less precisely the Not that being stuck with your fam- able—and has produced a relatively small Eldgjá fissure eruption originated from the tation—it was the radical students way EJ currently does, though never ily for an extra week in Tenerife is any eruption almost exactly every 10 years. The Katla volcanic system, and the 1918 erup- in California who spoke of war and hinting at any action of such volcanic laughing stock, let alone calling out last of those was in 2000. On its own, this tion produced both an enormous eruption which went surprisingly unnoticed magnitude. the Navy for your rescue. Googling “I would be less than convincing, but mea- plume (which in today's world could have by the global media. EJ is far more For those interested in events, the hate Iceland” already gives 147,000 re- surements show that pressure within the a major impact on air traffic) and an un- sophisticated in its approach, not say- eruption is already far more inter- sults, dwarfing “I love Iceland” and its mountain is currently higher than prior to imaginably huge jökulhlaup, which washed ing a word, so not a word can be mis- esting than parliament’s 3,000 page meagre 46,000 hits. Then again, anar- the 2000 or 1991 eruptions. You could re- icebergs the size of houses down onto the ally consider Hekla primed to blow. It's also plains below. interpreted. As is quite evident from report on Iceland’s financial crisis, chists have never really been strong in an odd beast because it produces no real So what's the current state of affairs? its course of action it means no harm or even its appendix on ethics. There popularity contests. As of yet—unlike earthquake activity until immediately (an Who's the prime suspect for our next volca- to people. This is a precise operation, are those who would like to see the September 11, 2001—the last time hour or so) prior to an eruption, so when nic crime? Frankly, I think it's unlikely to be designed for maximal effect in the fol- volcano as a mercenary mountain airlines were interrupted on a com- we see the ground shaking here, we know Katla. I don't think anyone is denying that lowing three ways: on the state’s payroll. They cite the parable scale—this catastrophe has something is up. Katla needs to be kept under close watch, 1. To bring a huge industry to stand- fact that the Nordic heathen society’s not become a deadly one, and the ac- but right now it's showing little sign of stir- still for as long as possible, considered high-priest and Sigur rós collaborator, tivist volcano shows no sign of fascist Grímsvötn builds pressure ring as a result of the Eyjafjallajökull erup- Our next suspect is Grímsvötn, a well- tion. Hekla and Grímsvötn, on the other good per se, by radical volcanoes, as Hilmar Örn Hilmarsson, did invoke a tendencies. The event remains nearly hidden volcano whose favourite tool of hand, are both showing signs of more or economic growth in a capitalist sys- curse against the UK and Holland for as virtual as a computer meltdown destruction is the jökulhlaup (glacial out- less being 'ready' to go. Chances are that tem equals strengthening hierarchies, the unsettled IceSave accounts, over a and its potential just as real. As long burst flood). Buried below the enormous neither of them is going to be particularly while year ago. After the ritual he concocted as that’s the case, I feel mildly proud Vatnajökull ice cap, Grímsvötn is unlikely dangerous (unless you're right on top of 2. thus revealing to the general pop- this rhyme in English: of my place of origin. Never mind the to mess with air traffic any time soon be- them!), but my money says that one of them ulation who relies on the services people or its politicians: this tectonic cause all that ice will probably stop much will be our next guilty party... involved how vulnerable it is, this “In London town this lying clown intersection is intelligent and daring. ash from escaping very far, but such sub- glacial eruptions have a history of aggres- system taken for granted by as all, sup- our land he drowns and shatters. sion against bridges and other structures. posedly serving our needs, economic Gordon Brown is going down, Grímsvötn's crater contains a lake lying and otherwise—laughing in the face his good renown in tatters.” beneath the ice, made of water melted by of globalisation and opening up a gap natural geothermal heat. Unlike most vol- in the veil of alienation, society’s wil- Proponents of this theory will also canoes, which may produce a jökulhlaup fully enforced ignorance of its actual find support in the fact that the €200 due to ice melting during the eruption, it's truths and million losses that the ashes cause thought that this lake can naturally over- JAMES ASHWORTH JULIA STAPLES 3. delaying global warming catastro- the airline industry alone—daily— haukur Már Helgason flow, and this release of pressure can trig- smáralind laugar dalur shopping centre swimming pool suðurlandsbraut smáratorg camping area petting zoo 4 dalvegur álfheimar dalvegur we serve you all day 11-22
EUROPEAN TOUR 2010
LÉTTÖL Fíton ehf. / SÍA The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2010 14
Feature | Besti Flokkurinn What Are You Voting For, Reykjavík?
Grapevine attempts to find out
By Haukur S. Magnússon Photos by Hörður Sveinsson Here at the Grapevine, we are all big fans of Jón Gnarr and his co- medic stylings. We were amused when we learned he was putting together a ‘parody party’ for the upcoming municipal elections, and we enjoyed a lot of his initial media appearances in promotion of it. We were furthermore delighted to learn that some of the people running with him are artists that we know and like, and who’s work we’ve appreciated throughout the years. It’s called Besti flokkurinn (“The Best Party”). It was all in good fun. Then the polls started coming in, and we learned that it was even conceivable that a joke party would win the elections, taking in as many as six city council chairs out of fifteen. A party without plat- form or policy; a celebrity-lead, vague minded collection of folks whose intentions were totally unclear was going to win Reykjavík’s majority vote. All of the sudden it seemed kind of scary. “What if they win?” we asked ourselves. Will they privatise the city’s welfare system and sell our power plants to Monty Burns? Will they rein- state the draft? How are we supposed to know? So we did what we usually do when we get curious – we got all proactive and called up the good man. He was happy to give an interview, which you may read below. Over the course of two hours, we tried to wrestle a position and platform – anything concrete – from the man. Below is an edited transcript of our conversation. We are still unsure of what to think. Music, Art, Films and Events Listings + Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland. Issue 6 - 2010 www.grapevine.is
16 1 May June The Moral Dilemmas of David Byrne*
*There’s some public art in Reykjavík you need to see. The artist is David Byrne, singer and songwriter of the band the Talking Heads. His outdoor kiosks, located all over the city centre, offer multiple choice questions to passerby, but this isn’t your run-of-the-mill trivia. They pose uncomfortable and often funny moral questions, paired with images of old-school cameras that suggest the viewer’s decision is being monitored. To learn more, check out David’s website—you can find a map of the exhibit sites and listen to a recent Icelandic radio interview with David about his project - www.davidbyrne.com MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE IN MAY & JUNE
Prescribing with love Prikið Karamba 12:00-18:00 Clothes Market 22:00 Sir Dance-A-Lot music for your live Addi Intro & party to 05:30! P Sódóma Multi-Instrumentalist Sammi MCs. experience AIDS fundraiser. Happy hour between 21:00-22:30. Venue Prikið How to use the listings 21:00 Útidúr, Me the Slumber- 22:00 100 ISK game continues - Beer Venues are listed alphabetically by day. ing Napoleon and others. Part of and shots for 100 ISK for just one For complete listings and detailed Maíhem. minute 4 time between 21:00 - 01:00. information on venues visit DJ Addi www.grapevine.is 24 Rósenberg MON 21:00 Gogo Yoko Thorvaldsen 21 Bakkus Free salsa lessons from 20:30-21:30. FRI 21:00 Movie Night / TBA 21:30 Salsa music. De Danske Kro Apótek Live music. Shots for 400 ISK. 2-for-1 28 0:00 DJ Aki. Beer for 550 ISK. beer from 16:00-19:00 FRI Austur Dubliner 23:00 DJ Bogi 22:30 Live music. Apótek Bakkus English Pub DJ Fannar 21:00 DJ Benson 22:00 Live music. Austur Celtic Cross Prikið 23:00 DJ Símon 01:00 Live music. 22:00 Fortune teller. 2 glasses of red Bakkus De Danske Kro wine with cheese for 1000 ISK. DJ 21:00 DJ Gisli Galdur Live music. 2-for-1 beer from 16:00- Kareem Abdul Jabbar Bar 11 19:00 Rósenberg Celtic Cross Dubliner 21:00 Misery & Eyvi. 01:00 Live music. 22:30 Live music. De Danske Kro English Pub 25 Live music. 2-for-1 beer from 16:00- 22:00 Live music. TUE 19:00 Hemmi & Valdi Dubliner 22:00 Local DJs De Danske Kro Live music. 2-for-1 beer from 16:00- 22:30 Live music. Hressó 19:00 English Pub 22:00 Live band - Silfur. 22:00 Live music. 01:00 DJ Bjarni Dubliner 22:30 Live music. Hressó Jacobsen 22:00 Live band - Silfur. 18:00 Live DJs English Pub 22:00 Live music. 01:00 DJ Elli Karamba Prikið Jacobsen 23:45 Danni Deluxe 18:00 Live DJs Thorvaldsen 22:00 Playstation football/Soccer Prikið tournament with DJ Gauti. 350 ISK 00:00 DJ Kristján 10:00-12:00 Pub Quiz beer for participants. Karamba Rósenberg 23:45 DJ-Öfull Rósenberg 21:00 KK-Band 21:00 Gæðablóð Prikið Sódóma V.I.P weekend. Jenni & Franz per- 22:00 The Authorities (punk/surf) form a Guns N' Roses tribute. Danni Bacon Love Support Unit (conser- 26 Deluxe. vatitve dubfunk) & The Way Down WED Rósenberg (alt rock). 21:00 Memfismafían Thorvaldsen De Danske Kro Sódóma 0:00 DJ Tender Pop music. 2-for-1 beer from 16:00- 22:00 Pestilence (death metal), and Venue 19:00, Beer 500 ISK after 19:00. many other bands., 21:00 Tamarin/(Gunslinger), Reyk- Dubliner Thorvaldsen javík!, and more. Part of Maíhem. 22:30 Live music. 0:00 DJ Kristján English Pub 22 22:00 Live music. 29 SAT Karamba SAT 21:00 Bring A Friend Day Apótek Prikið Apótek 22:00 Toggi. Entry: 500 ISK. 22:00 Summer Jam - Rotweiler, DJ Fannar 0:00 DJ Aki. Beer for 550 ISK. Emmsjé Gauti, Diddi, DJ Moon- Austur Austur shine and more. BBQ, etc. 23:00 DJ Jónas 23:00 DJ Jónas Rósenberg Bakkus Bakkus 21:00 Svavar Knútur 21:00 Hunk of a Man 21:00 DJ Della Rosa Sódóma Celtic Cross Barbara 22:00 Deep Purple coverband. 01:00 Live music. 22:00 Eurovision Glitter Night - duo De Danske Kro DJ Glimmer 27 Live music. 2-for-1 beer from 16:00- Celtic Cross THU 19:00 01:00 Live music. Dubliner De Danske Kro Bakkus 22:30 Live music. Live music. 2-for-1 beer from 16:00- 21:00 DJ Einar Sonic English Pub 19:00 De Danske Kro 22:00 Live music. Dubliner Live music. 2-for-1 beer from 16:00- Hressó 22:30 Live music. 19:00 22:00 Live band - Silfur. English Pub Dubliner 01:00 DJ Elli 22:00 Live music. 22:30 Live music. Jacobsen Hressó English Pub 18:00 Live DJs 22:00 Live band - Dalton 22:00 Live music. Karamba 01:00 DJ Bjarni Hressó 23:45 KGB Jacobsen 22:00 Live band - Penta. Nordic House 18:00 Live DJs The Icelandic Opera 16:00 God Morgen, Hjarte: Billie Karamba 20:30 Ólafur Arnalds Holiday songs in Norwegian. 23:45 DJ Ívar Jacobsen Prikið Prikið 18:00 Live DJs Eurovision showing on big screen, 12:00-18:00 Clothes Market beer for 400 ISK during. DJ Benni 22:00 Moonshine. Offer: A beer and a shot for 750 ISK together. Rósenberg Music & Entertainment | Venue finder 21:00 Gæðablóð Sódóma Amsterdam Celtic Cross Þorvaldsenstræti 2 | E3 23:00 Weapons (rock), Cosmic Call Hafnarstræti 5 | D2 Hverfisgata 26 | E4 Nýlenduvöruverzlun Hemma (indie), and more. Apótek Dillon & Valda Thorvaldsen Austurstræti 16 | E3 Laugavegur 30 | F5 Laugavegur 21 | E4 00:00 DJ Tender Austur Dubliner Næsti Bar Venue Austurstræti 7 | E3 Hafnarstræti 4 | D3 Ingólfstræti 1A | E3 21:00 AMFJ, DLX ATX and friends. B5 English Pub Óliver Part of Maíhem. Bankastræti 5 | E3 Austurstræti 12 | D2 Laugavegur 20A | F5 Babalú Glaumbar Ölstofan 23 Skólavörðustígur 22 | G5 Tryggvagata 20 | D2 Vegamótastígur | E4 SUN Bar 11 Highlander Prikið Laugavegur 11 | E4 Lækjargata 10 | E3 Bankastræti | E3 Austur Barbara Hressó Rósenberg 23:00 DJ Bogi Laugavegur 22 | F6 Austurstræti 20 | E3 Klapparstígur 25 | E4 De Danske Kro Live music. 2-for-1 beer from 16:00- Bjarni Fel Hverfisbarinn Sódóma Reykjavík Austurstræti 20 | E3 Hverfisgata 20 | E4 Tryggvagata 22 | D3 19:00. Beer 500 ISK after 19:00. Dubliner Boston Jacobsen Sólon Bankastræti 7A | E3 22:30 Live music. Laugavegur 28b | F5 Austurstræti 9 | E3 English Pub Café Cultura Kaffi Zimsen Thorvaldsen 22:00 Live music. Hverfisgata 18 | E4 Hafnarstræti 18 | D3 Austurstræti 8 | D2 Jacobsen Café Paris Kaffibarinn Vegamót 18:00 BenSol's Sunday Session Austurstræti 14 | E3 Bergstraðastræti 1 | E4 Vegamótastígur 4 | E4 Deep house, lounge, house, disco Balthazar Karamba Venue music and a film Hafnarstræti 1-3| D2 Laugavegur 22 | F4 Tryggvagata 22 | D3 NASA Rósenberg 21:00 Memfismafían Sódóma REYKJA- 23:30 Óli Ofur & Oculus Thorvaldsen 00:00 DJ Kristján VIK ARTS 30 FESTIVAL SUN . May De Danske Kro Live music. 2-for-1 beer from 16:00- 21 19:00 Beer 500 ISK after 19:00. Kimmo Pohjen - Solo Dubliner Nasa - 21:00 22:30 Live music. Finnish musician described as the Jimi English Pub Hendrix of the accordion plays an unfor- 22:00 Live music. gettable one man show. Jacobsen 22 18:00 BenSol's Sunday Session Deep house, lounge, house, disco Lecture: Kati Gausmann & Ingo music and a film Fröhlich Karamba Kling & Bang - 14:00 23:45 Maysun's Boardgames Addressing the history of Torstrasse 111, Prikið how it evolved and the way in which it 22:00 Hangover cinema presents affected Berlin and international artists Mad Max. in that place. Rósenberg Visual Performances 20:30 Stand Up: The Diary of Anne Visual artists and musicians pair up to Knút perform a weekend of studio concerts to present a visual and musical feast 31 with a chance of meeting the artists in MON their studios. See www.listahatid.is for full schedule. 3 Bakkus 21:00 Movie Night / TBA Ryk Á Book 24 The Icelandic Opera - 20:00 De Danske Kro Megas Live music. Shots for 400 ISK. 2-for-1 Benni Hemm Hemm, Alisdair Robert and Háskólabíó Concert Hall - 21:00 beer from 16:00-19:00 The Reykjavík Wind Ensemble. 2900 ISK Dubliner Iceland‘s acclaimed musician holds a 22:30 Live music. grand concert. Ticket: 5500 ISK 4 English Pub Vortex Temporum 22:00 Live music. 26 The Icelandic Opera - 20:00 Prikið Where Is The Line? Njúton and the Formalist Quartet 21:00 Fortune teller. 2 glasses of red The Icelandic Opera - 20:00 perform contemporary pieces and world wine with cheese for 1000 ISK. DJ Mezzosoprano Ásgerður Júníusdóttir & premieres. 2900 ISK. Blush. pianist Jónas Sen perform unique cov- Rósenberg ers of well know Björk songs and other 21:00 Svavar Knútur Icelandic artists. Tickets: 2900 ISK Ongoing Downtown Reykjavík 1 27 TUE Reality Check, an outdoor exhibition Brothers curated by Æsa Sigurjónsdóttir. Dubliner The National Theatre of Iceland - The Free Lutheran Church 22:30 Live music. 21:00 Sunday Morning Concerts - 11:00 English Pub An eccentric dance piece about men. Performances of Schubert's best known 22:00 Live music. Performance also on May 28. lieder. Performances will be held on May Tickets: 3400 ISK 23 & 30. Tickets: 2000 ISK. Gerðuberg Cultural Centre 2 Breiðholt - At The Moment WED 29 May 16 - June 30 Reading at Writers' Homes An exhibition of photographs by De Danske Kro Various Locations - 17:00 Live music. 2-for-1 beer from 16:00- Friðdgeir Helgason. In collaboration An chance to get up and close with 19:00 Beer 500 ISK after 19:00. with the Reykjavík Arts Festival Dubliner eight different authors at their homes. Breiðholt - In The Beginning 22:30 Live music. Price: 1000 ISK. See www.listahad.is for May 16 - June 30 English Pub full listing. An exhibition of photographs by 22:00 Live music. Friðdgeir Helgason. In collaboration wi 30 th the Reykjavík ArtsFestival 3 Orquesta Chekara Flamenca Kling & Bang Maria Dembek & Robin McAulay THU The Icelandic Opera - 20:00 Pinhole photography exhibition. Combining flamenco dance with the al- De Danske Kro May 15- 13 June Live music. 2-for-1 beer from 16:00- ala music of Morocco. Tickets: 3500 ISK The National Theatre of Iceland 19:00 Falling In Love With My Kitchen Aid Dubliner June May 20 - June 5 22:30 Live . Part theatre, part circus performance English Pub 1 based on the works by visual artist Ilmur 22:00 Live music. Malleus, Incus, Stapes Stefánsdóttir. 3400 ISK. Kaffi Zimsen Kjarvalsstaðir - 20:00 The Living Art Museum 17:00 Ólafsvaka 490 ISK beer night. Elísabet Indra Ragnarsdóttir leads a sym- CharlieHotelEchoEchoSierraEcho Jacobsen posium on contemporary music. Free. May 16 - June 26 18:00 Live DJs . German artist duo Rosen & Wojnar Karamba 2 exhibit their work. 23:45 Misery DJ From the Gates of Hell to the Courts P of Europe Multi-Instrumentalist Sammi MCs. The National Centre for Cultural Happy hour between 21:00-22:30. Heritage - 20:00 Thorvaldsen Concert comprising of 18th century Free salsa lessons from 20:30-21:30. music, coupled with Icelandic literature 21:30 Salsa music from the same period. Tickets: 2500 ISK Outside Reykjavík 22 23 May May Akureyri Sjalllinn May 22 - 0:00 Klikkað Greyfaball Ísafjörður Edinborgarhús May 26 Eivör Pálsdóttir May 27 Skúli Þórðarson Húsavík Gamli Baukur Roaaarrrrg! May 21 DJ Unnur Selfoss Biskupstungur field in Reykholt 800 Bar May 22 - 23:00 Skítamórall Free May 23 Splash Party - DJ Óli Geir, Haffi Haff and friends. What happens when the descendants of Vikings decide to get together in Seyðisfjörður a field and reenact the battles of their ancestors? Visit Reykholt on the 22 Skaftfell May 22 - 22:00 and 23 to find out. Fifty or more actors will stage battles in full Viking attire. Þórir Georg & Drekka (Michael An- It should be a sight to behold. If you’re a peaceful Viking, you can also derson) take a tour of the rest of the “realistic” Viking town that’ll be erected over the weekend, including crafts, and, hopefully, food. If you want to come prepared, watch The Raven Flies, an Icelandic viking film from the ‘80s. Bring your wooden sword (for ornamental use only) and pick a side to roar for. SO MUSIC & ARTS CONCERTS & EVENTS IN MAY & JUNE
16 1 23 May June May
Blinded By The Light LUMEN - Reflections on the Nature of Light National Gallery of Iceland Admission 2500 ISK Moral Dilemmas by David Byrne If you could look at music, what would City centre you see? And if you could hear light, what would it sound like? If you want Free to find out what having synesthesia You may find yourself in another part of the world, and if that part of the world is like, head to the National Gallery happens to be Reykjavík, there’s some public art you need to see. The artist is David for LUMEN, a multi-sensory show Byrne, singer and songwriter of the band Talking Heads. His outdoor kiosks, located presented by the Reykjavík Arts Festival. all over the city centre, offer multiple choice questions to passerby, but this isn’t your Lasers, lightbulbs, and fire will light up run-of-the-mill trivia. They pose uncomfortable and often funny moral questions, the performance, and the collaboration paired with images of old-school cameras that suggest the viewer’s decision is by musicians Ensemble Adapter and being monitored. To learn more, check out David’s website—you can find a map of visual artist Halldór Úlfarsson will the exhibit sites and listen to a recent Icelandic radio interview with David about his feature new and “classic” contemporary project. But don’t just let the Talking Head tell you what it’s all about. Go see it for musical compositions. With all its fancy- yourself. SO schmancy genre bending, it promises to be electric. SO Iceland’s 22 27 biggest band! May May For concert information see music listings on this spread or visit us at www.sinfonia.is
The Weight Of Darkness Is Upon Us Ólafur Arnalds album release show Icelandic Opera 20:30 1800 ISK Ólafur is a hell of a busy guy. He tours almost constantly, his work has been commissioned by the Wayne McGregor Ballet Company and the Icelandic Dance Company, he records nearly everything that pops into his head and just gives it Tickets » 545 2500 » www.sinfonia.is » Concerts take place in Háskólabíó. away like goldfish at a carnival. But believe it or not, the freshly released ‘… and they have escaped the weight of darkness’ is only his second full length album. He will Magical Mystery Tour! officially open the cage door for the dove next Friday at a homecoming show after quick tour, in the majestic setting of the Icelandic Opera House. Go hear his latest Trip To The Unknown with blend of classical, pop and electronic in all its glory. RL Kolli Kvlt Bakkus 17:00 Wash up those metal-hands for a night of thrashing and teeth-gnashing, kids! Free 28 Dutch death metal veterans Pestilence If you’re into the idea of being put on a May are heading off on a lengthy North bus and driven out of the city to a secret American trek and they are making a pit destination by a complete stranger stop in Reykjavík on the way. Provided (bind, gag and blindfold yourself for they aren’t ash-blocked of course. The extra LOLs), then have we got the event night will also be jam packed with some for you! Artist, musician and all around of the biggest names in local metal cool kid around down Kolli Kvlt (of bands, including Wacken Metal Battle Retrön infamy) will be taking 50 lucky Dooooooooom winners Wistaria, homegrown heroes In people on a mind expanding (and Memoriam and a healthy dose of black maybe altering?) trip this Saturday. Meet Pestilence, Wistaria, In metal, care of Atrum. The up-and- up at Bakkus and get a cheap beer and Memoriam & more coming newbie band Gruesome Glory perhaps a free summer drink and then from Akureyri will start the night, and head off… somewhere. Once there, Sódóma 22:00 should have no problem holding their www.facebook.com/kaffibarinn you’ll get an art exhibit, performances by own against the big kids. Uuuuurrrrrgh! Kolli and designer-slash-performance 2000 ISK RL artist Mundi, music by Quadruplos and food and drinks. Bus comes back at 22:00. Unless you’re chicken! RL Age limit: 22 20 23 May May
Soap Box Beauty Maíhem at Venue! Contest Cosmic Call, Reykjavík!, DLX ATX, Útidúr & more Mr. Gay / Herra Hommi Venue 21:00 The National Theatre Admission 500-1000 ISK, Free for DJ sets 21:00 You know what is really cool? Long weekends. Yes. If you don’t like long weekends, 2500 ISK get the hell out of town! But I digress. Monday is a day off and that means we’re all going to go even more apeshit than we do on a regular weekend and max out our Forget about waxing your chest. credit cards on partying. The good folks at OkiDoki and the new club Venue (in Sharpen your wits boys! Magnús what was formerly Club 101) will be helping us out with this by throwing a TOTALLY Guðbergur Jónsson, organizer of the AWESOME concert series! event and last year’s winner of the Kicking off on Thursday night and rocking hard until the wee hours of Monday Mr. Gay Iceland title, says this beauty morning, the place will be full of great music: Sing for me Sandra, Caterpillarmen, contest will skip the swimsuits. “You Sudden Weather Change, AMFJ, Captain Fufanu, Me the Slumbering Napoleon, don’t have to have any muscles to Jungle Fiction… the list goes on and on. All shows cost 500 ISK except Friday night compete. It’s more about how you can at 1000 ISK. If you are a bit short and you just want to dance, each night will end with sell your idea onstage.” free DJ sets from the likes of Dans Hans and Sykur. It’s going to get messy! RL The winner of this event will move on to represent Iceland in the Mr. Gay Europe contest, and raise awareness worldwide Megas is in a league of his own. Here in about gay, lesbian, bisexual, and Iceland, very little more than his name transgendered issues. Event contestants needs to be said for people to know it’s will voice their thoughts on gay rights, 24 and answer questions on what they May a big deal. The writer, poet and musician is a cult unto himself. He was banned on would like to see Iceland teach other Icelandic radio for writing purportedly countries. Over his past year as Mr. Satanic and definitely satiric lyrics, Gay Iceland, Magnús’s main goal was collaborated with experimental-goth education. It could be better in Iceland, band KUKL and a very young Björk and he told the Grapevine, but this open- was namedropped by The Fall in their minded little country could still teach the Megas epic song ‘Iceland’. He has released over world a lot about what it means for all forty solo and collaborative albums and citizens to have equal rights in society. Háskólabíó Concert Hall six books. For one night only, as part of Any gay Icelandic male 18 or older can the Reykjavík Arts Festival, the legend enter the contest. Just drop Magnús a 21:00 will perform with a string quartet, a line on Mr. Gay Iceland’s Facebook site, Admission 5500 ISK children‘s choir and a rock band and run or you can email mr.gay_iceland@ymail. the gamut of his work, as well as new com. DJ Glimmer and friends will be on songs written by his son, Þórður. Go. RL hand to entertain. SO
15 29 27 May August May
15. maí – 29. ágúst 2010
GRÓFARHÚS 6th floor · Tryggvagata 15 · 101 Reykjavík · www.photomuseum.is It’s Time To Get Yr. Skúli Opening hours 12–19 mon–fri, 13–17 weekends · ADMISSION FREE On Skúli Þórðarson Hornið, Hafnarstræti 21:00 Free
Now, here’s a fun and excellent event that you probably had no idea about. Shark Skúli Þórðarson is a troubadour (he also Lamb performs in a band – Skúli Mennski & Whale The Family Album: Thomsen & Thomsen Grjót – check out their jean-clad CD if you can find it) that has a striking Puffin Reykjavík Photography Museum and powerful voice, some excellent Wild game Free guitar playing skills and writes these and ALL the gorgeous lyrics. He’s also a very tuneful songsmith. Think Tom Waits, think icelandic Peter Thomsen Senior studied photography in Germany in 1935, was Dylan, think Megas. OK, that sounds beers drafted as a military photographer and subsequently fled back to Iceland like a horrible cliché, but Skúli is not. Kitchen open but was imprisoned in England for desertion. After his release, he returned Promise. home and worked as an industrial photographer. In this exhibit, the last of So, this winter, he has been till 23:00 his works were snapped in 1973, when Peter Thomsen Junior was born. throwing these monthly, intimate Picking up after his grandfather, he took up the camera and became concerts in the tiny basement of Hornið. known for a series of construction photography. Seen through the eyes They are all life-affirming and exciting in Pósthússtræti 9 Reykjavík Tel: 578 2020 of two different generations, this beautiful exhibit is a conversation on the their own way. Check this one out if you www.icelandicbar.is [email protected] changing landscape of modern Reykjavík and the inhabitants within it. RL can – you shan’t regret it. HSM Central Reykjavík FAXA FLÓI
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UR 1 GARÐ2 3 4 5 ANDA GR Maritime Museum MAPMAP The Old Harbour Old Depart for whale and puffin Places We Like A watching tours from the old Harbou ST r AU harbour, a lively area, offering 1 Prikið ÁNAN an assortment of restaurants MÝR and activity centres Bankastræti 12 AR GA T Prikið is one of those places that NÝL A ENDUG Old shape-shifts. It’s a warm café lined Harbour13 ATA Area with photographs of its seniorSVEGUR NE frequenters on weekdays,FRAM a hung-over R U R ÍG ÁNA VEST hangout on weekend afternoons, and T RG Future B AT U RS A RGA G2EI Concert during nights it’s filled to the brim A B T RS ÁRUG A GATA Hall with what remains of Iceland’s hip AT BORG A A Reykjavík hop scene. Go there in daytime forRA the ÖL AT D Art ÆÐ UGA SG I Museum cheap burgers; enter at nightBR for some TA ÆGI ÆT Main TR 11 14 OTT hip-hop debauchery, old skool 6YG Tourist GV ASTR Down and the latest bangers alike. SKK Info AG Ð ATA R 8 Taxi Town GA HAFNAR I S SÆBR TÚNG A ST K 2 ATA ÆT US RÆTI ÚL Café d’Haiti D R TUR T ST The AG S RÆ AU TI 15 ATA T AL Austur 18 Culture Tryggvagata 6 I National AÐ völlur T House9 TA Park Theatre RÆ R GA KIRK The first time I entered this exotic little JU U L ST BANK 1 IN AUT RÆ HVE ÍG DARGA Skyline SÆBR ALLA TI TA T joint, meaning to buy myself a take- STH.ST A Icelandic A ST RF S TA Ó RÆ IS P G Vesturbæjar RG ATA away espresso, I endedHOFSV up with two SÓ Parliament I TI AR
Swimming LV JA 12 “Financial 4 PP ∆ A K kilos of freshPool and roasted coffee beans LL ÆT I AG T R LA ATA LÆ T ÍGUR 16 K 5 Æ District” due to some language complications A ST SS 3 AT Lauga and way too much politeness. Since A LT TI 17 NS City SSTR vegur T HR AT F A ARTÚN then I have enjoyed way-too-many E Taxi RÆR V BORG INGB ÐURG RG Hall ÓL ST GLaugavegur SU R Up wonderful cups of Haitian coffee, but ÞINGHO NG RA IN RNA Reykjavík’s main shopping ÐA SK U A they’re always as nice, so the twoT kilos and culture street, featuring TJ TA Ó Town HVE The a wide range of bars, bisLA tros, RF Tower were definitely worth it. SKK GUR ISG cafes and restaurants. V ATA EGUR ERGS ÖR VE B ÍGUR A L UV Ð T AU
City ÁS 3 Karamba USTÍGU GA ATA KJ AS VEGU
Pond UF G ÚN G RE SKÚL IR S TT KK R AT Laugavegur 22 LA ISG AG ÍK IN A AT ATA R A NÓ ÞÓRSG R Hlemmur FR FR ÍGUR ÓÐ 7 UT Bus Downtown hotspot Karamba is National ST GU West RA A Terminal a colourful and eclectic bar on F Gallery ATA Side R of Iceland VIT SSTÍ AB LU NJ RR Laugavegur with a comfortable E ÁLSG ÓN HÁ Lunch special: A R TÚN IM NO Ê atmosphere, typically great music and AT AT S A BA Taxi Laugardals Panini, salad and soup. RK Hallgríms BERGÞ a chill crowd. This is a good placeBI to Swimming BALDURSG kirkja ÓRUG Pool Price: 990 KR. R relax or to do some serious drinking Church ATA LAU SÓLE GU G A TA BRAUTARHOLT AV or to relax. Plus, their decors are AT TÍ EG AG ARGA UR YJ AG RS done strictly by Grapevine-friendly BR ARÐ AR The Einar artists, such as Lóa (who does our NJ RÁ GA Jónsson Sundhöllin ÐA Museum U comics), Hugleikur Dagsson and Bobby TA Swimming S A K G University R Pool RA IPHO S Breiðholt (who’s done a lot of nice AT GU KIPHOL of Iceland BERG illustrations for us); they are truly a Hljómskáli SSTÍ LT T EI ÐURG ÚN Park ST R BARÓN sight to behold. CF ÍK SU University HR AÐ East AT from 8 a.m. SG of Iceland INGB ARSTR AT UT NÓ Park L T 4 Hemmi og Valdi RA A RA Side AU Æ AU UT FÁ AB TI SV BR Laugavegi 21 RR EGUR HÁ NO TEIGS The “colonial store” Hemmi and Valdi S NARS VEGUR is a cosy hangout that has advanced GUN Miklatún H Nordic House ÍGUR Italian coffee, from being a toasty retreat, where one Park Culture Center FLÓKA cakes, can score cheap beer and have a quiet VA TNSMÝR ÁRST GA R TA light meals, chat, into being a chock-full concert AR VEGUR ÐA venue and an all-night party place. GAML Kjarvalsstaðir and great books ATA A HR AU National And believe us, the atmosphere is BSÍ INGBR R Museum ARG AUT brilliant. SKK RÐ Coach UT A Terminal NJ RA
Ð Í ARB 5 L Tíu Dropar HR ÝR IN AH GB Laugavegur 27 I RA UM UT NG B LA ÓLS If you’re sick of all the arty cafés, filled TAÐ INGL MIK ARHLÍÐ with Sigur Rós wannabes browsing LA KR BRAU Facebook on their Macs – go to Tíu Reykjavík T Kringlan Domestic Shopping Dropar. It’s a back-to-basics Icelandic Airport Center café that hasn’t changed its interior Ë Ì since the sixties. Really proves the old adage “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Plus, the coffee’s great and so are the pancakes. SKK 7 Babalú 8 Habibi 9 Grái Kötturinn Skólavörðstíg 22 Hafnarstræti 18 Hverfisgata 16a 6 Sódóma Reykjavík Located on the second-floor This small restaurant offers up a Super relaxed and cozy diner/café Tryggvagata 22 of a quirky little building on concise menu of delicious Arabic below street level. This place makes Newly opened Sódóma on Tryggvagötu Skólavörðustígur, Babalú is an inviting, cuisine, from shawarma to kebabs and the best hangover breakfast ever (the is already a hit with party crowds and quaint and cosy café serving up falafels. The staff is really friendly and truck!) and any-other-day breakfast as gig-goers alike. An extensive venue, a selection of tea, coffee and hot accommodating of requests to kick well. It’s a nice and relaxing place to filled with reasonably priced beverages chocolate along with delicious baked up the spiciness or tone it down if the eat and increase your caffeine intake and reasonably good looking people. goods and light meals. Food and customer so desires. Habibi seriously and chill with friends or with some Some of Iceland’s finest musical drink aside, Babalú boasts colourfully hits the spot after hours of partying reading material. CF ventures have played in recent months, decorated and super-comfortable (or any other time of day) so it’s and their schedule looks promising surroundings and a genuinely friendly convenient that the place is allegedly too. Also, make sure to visit their men’s and likeable staff. CF open until 6 a.m. Friday and Saturday room for a glance at the “Pissoir of (although their advertised opening Absolution”. JB hours are sometimes not adhered to). CF Central Reykjavík FAXA FLÓI
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UR ARÐ G 6 7 8 9 10 13 Sægreifinn ANDA GR For a map of outside downtown Geirsgata 8 Maritime Museum Reykjavík check out links on Down by the Reykjavík harbour, Th www.grapevine.is or the Icelandic Sægreifinn fish shop and restaurant e is a pretty unique establishment. The Old Harbour Old phonebook website www.ja.is Depart for whale and puffin menu features various fish dishes watching tours from the old Harbou ST r (including most of the “crazy Icelandic harbour, a lively area, offering AU food” you’ll want to tell your friends ÁNAN an assortment of restaurants MÝR and activity centres you had) and a rich portion of some AR GA pretty good lobster soup tasted. Good TA food and welcoming service make this NÝLENDUG Old Harbour place a must-try. ATA Area SVEGUR NE FRAM R U R 14 ÍG ÁNA VEST Kolaportið T RG Future AT U RS A RGA GEI Concert A B T RS Tryggvagata 19 ÁRUG A GATA Hall AT BORG A A Reykjavík Reykjavík’s massive indoor flea market RA ÖL AT D Art is a wonderful place to get lost for a ÆÐ UGA SG I Museum BR TA ÆT few hours, rummaging through stall ÆGI Main TR YG Tourist GV upon stall of potential treasures. There ASTR Down Info AG Ð ATA are heaps of used clothing, knitwear R Taxi Town and other yard-sale type goods from GA HAFNAR I S SÆBR TÚNG A ST K decades of yore, and a large food ATA ÆT US RÆTI ÚL R TUR T ST The AG S RÆ AU section with fish, meats and baked T A AL Austur I Culture TA T I National T goods. Check out the vintage post AÐ völlur House TA Park Theatre K RÆ R cards and prints at the table near the GA IRK U JUST BANK LIN AUT RÆ HVE ÍG DARGA Skyline SÆBR army surplus. CF ALLA TI TA T STH.ST A Icelandic A ST RF S TA Ó RÆ IS P G Vesturbæjar RG ATA HOFSV SÓ Parliament I TI AR
Swimming LV JA “Financial PP ∆ A K Pool LL ÆT I AG T R LA ATA LÆ T ÍGUR 15 K Hressó Æ District” A SS ST AT Lauga A LT TI NS Austurstræti 20 SSTR T HR AT City F vegur A N Taxi RÆR V BORGARTÚ INGB ÐURG RG Hall ÓL ST You know, Hressó is basically the only GLaugavegur SU R Up ÞINGHO NG RA IN RNA Reykjavík’s main shopping ÐA SK place I go for coffee. Why? Their coffee U A and culture street, featuring T TA HVE The TJ Ó Town is decent to excellent, but their forte a wide range of bars, bisLA tros, RF Tower GUR ISG cafes and restaurants. V ATA EGUR ERGS ÖR is surely their wonderful patio, where VE B ÍGUR A L UV Ð T AU
City ÁS USTÍGU GA you can enjoy the spring breeze in the ATA KJ AS VEGU
Pond UF G ÚN G RE SKÚL IR S TT sun, wrap yourself in a blanket beneath KK R AT LA ISG AG ÍK IN A AT ATA R A NÓ an electric heater in January and at ÞÓRSG R Hlemmur FR FR ÍGUR National ÓÐ UT Bus ST GU all times: smoke. They boast of quite West RA A Terminal Gallery ATA 10 SSTÍ AB the prolific menu, and they've finally Side R of Iceland VIT LU NJ RR E ÁLSG ÓN HÁ removed NIckelback from their playlist. A R TÚN IM AT AT NO Ê A BA S Taxi Laugardals Thank you, Hressó!. SKK RK Hallgríms BERGÞ BI Swimming BALDURSG kirkja ÓRUG Pool R Church ATA LAU SÓLE GU G A TA BRAUTARHOLT AV AT TÍ EG AG ARGA UR 16 Grænn Kostur YJ AG RS BR ARÐ AR The Einar NJ RÁ Skólavörðustíg 8b GA Jónsson Sundhöllin ÐA Museum U TA Swimming S A K Serving healthy organic vegan and University R Pool RA IPHO S AT GU KIPHOL vegetarian food for well over a decade, of Iceland BERG Hljómskáli SSTÍ LT T EI Grænn Kostur is the perfect downtown ÐURG ÚN Park ST R BARÓN ÍK SU University HR AÐ East AT choice for enjoying light, wholesome SG of Iceland INGB ARSTR AT UT NÓ and inexpensive meals. Try any of their Park L T RA A RA Side AU Æ AU courses of the day, or go for the ever- UT FÁ AB TI SV BR RR pleasing spinach lasagne. EGUR HÁ NO TEIGS S NARS VEGUR GUN Miklatún Nordic House ÍGUR Park 17 Basil & Lime Culture Center FLÓKA VA TNSMÝR ÁRST GA R TA Klapparstígur 38 AR VEGUR ÐA GAML Kjarvalsstaðir ATA A HR AU Despite what the name might suggest, I R National BSÍ NGBR Museum Basil & Lime offers up well made, ARG AUT RÐ Coach UT A Terminal unpretentious Italian food at laudably NJ RA moderate prices. Their tempting menu Ð Í ARB HR L begs for repeat visits. Start by trying ÝR IN AH GB staple courses such as the Chicken RA UM UT NG
LA B Fusilli and the Langoustine Tagliatelli. ÓLS TAÐ INGL MIK AR LA HLÍÐ KR BRAU Reykjavík T Kringlan Domestic Shopping Airport Center Ë Ì
10 Ban Thai 11 Bakkus 12 Kisan 18 Kornið Laugavegur 130 Tryggvagata 22 – Naustarmegin Laugavegur 7 Lækjargata 4 Even though the service at Ban Thai A new and welcome addition to This store is incredibly cool. It’s How about filling your face with cakes may get a little flaky, the food is always Reykajvík’s bar scene, Bakkus serves stocked with really unique and quirky at the delightful Kornið. They taste to die for and the place also offers a up reasonably priced beer, a really clothes, outerwear, accessories and so good, you would gladly push your very pleasant dining atmosphere that impressive selection of international handbags, plus they have an adorable own mother over for even the slightest puts you right in a comfortable Thai vodkas and an atmosphere unlike section of kids clothes, kitschy vintage of sniffs. Not a sweet tooth? Well, try sorta mood. It’s really Reykjavík’s only any other in town. An eclectic mix of toys and books and even interior their delectable sandwiches then; “fancy” Thai restaurant. Ban Thai has patrons, regular live music and movie design items. Wicked place; definitely we recommend the egg and bacon remained a true Reykjavík treasure for nights keep this place interesting worth a visit. CF ciabatta! At only 590ISK plus all the the longest time, and is truly one that and always inviting. Expect dancing Píta sauce you could dream of. What should be celebrated. on tables and to-the-death foosball more can one ask for on a lunch battles. CF break? JB ART Elegant surroundings GALLERIES & MUSEUMS Superb cuisine Cocktail pleasures and Hafnaborg, Hafnarfjörður Sites - Friederike von Rauch Visual stimulation May 16 - June 20 Modern comfort Preserving quality The German photographer exhibits her work. is our business How to use the listings: Venues are listed Hamraborg, Kópavogur alphabetically by day. For complete listings Þórgunnur Guðgeirsdóttir/Hogga Open daily for lunch and dinners and detailed information on venues visit Art exhibition in the assemblyroom of the www.grapevine.is Special off er on Monday Left Green movement. Ongoing until May 30. and Tuesday – 3 course dinner Havarí for only 4200 ISK. OPENING Ongoing May Exhibiting work from The Icelandic Love Reservation: tel. 552 5700, Corporation, Sigga Björg, Hugleik Dags- 21 e-mail: [email protected] son, Lindu Loeskow and Sara Riel. RAFLOST Festival i8 Hafnarhúsð - 13:00-17:00 Sigurður Guðmundsson Lectures dedicated to a number of artists Situations and other photo works from 1970-1982. Ongoing until June 19. taking part in the RAFLOST festival Bergstaðastræti 37 s. 552 5700 (Icelandic Festival of Electronic Arts). Kling & Bang [email protected] www.holt.is Erling T.V. Klingenberg 22 A collection of Klingenberg's work, in- cluding self-portraits. Ongoing until June Grand Finale - RAFLOST Festival 20. Útgerðin - 21:00 Maria Dembek & Robin McAulay Exhibiting the work of Haraldur Karls- Pinhole photography exhibition. Pizzeria tel. 578 8555 Lækjargata 8 Downtown son, Juan Parra, S.L.Á.T.U.R., Martinka May 15 - June 13 Bobrikova, and more. National Gallery of Iceland Cindy Sherman - Untitled Film Stills 27 American photographer Sherman plays Artist's Talk - Friederike von Rauch with female film fantasies in self-portraits. Hafnaborg - 20:00 Runs until September 5th. Friederike discusses her work and career Edvard Munch as a photographer. Prints in the collection of the National 28 Gallery. Runs until September 5th. Starfrænn Hákon Strides Havarí - 17:00 A selection of the Gallery's collection A performance of his sideproject 'Per from the 20th and 21st century. Perma- Probably the best pizza Segulsvið', comprising of music, poetry & nent exhibition. short stories. The National Museum Guy Maddin's 'Tales from the Permanent exhibition: Gimli Hospital' The Making of a Nation in town Háskólabíó- 20:00 Heritage and History in Iceland is intend- Presented with Q&A. ed to provide insight into the history of 29 the Icelandic nation from the Settlement Sites Workshop to the present day. Hafnaborg - 14:00 Ása Wright - From Iceland to Trinidad Children's workshop where they will Collection of objects that belonged to the explore the museum concentrating on adventuress Ása Guðmundsdóttir. sites where form and atmposphere are Embroidery of Life produced. Free & open to everyone. Embroidery by Guðrún Guðmundsdóttir, inspired by old manuscripts Permanent exhibition The Nordic House ONGOING 10 April - 30 September Land Of Experiments Interactive exhibit based on scientific Arbæjarsafn / Reykjavík City contraptions from Tom Tits Experimen- Museum tarium in Sweden. Play! 1 September - 31 May Winter Program Ráðhús Reykjavíkur Dulin Himintungl This open-air historical museum offers Kim Linnet exhibits her 360° panorama guided tours Monday, Wednesday, and photos of Iceland. Friday at 13:00. Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 Art Gallery Fold Permanent exhibition: Photography exhibition of the volcanic The Settlement Exhibition eruptions in Iceland this year, wich brought photographers from all over the Reykjavík Art Museum world to capture them. Ongoing all sum- Hafnarhús May 28, 2009 - August 29 mer. Erró - Portraits The Culture House March 18 - May 23 Permanent Exhibition: Erró - Portraits - Women from North Medieval Manuscripts Africa February 3 - ongoing Icelanders Reykjavik Maritime Museum The Coast Guard vessel Óðinn Exhibit featuring a selection of photo- The Óðinn took part in all three Cod Wars graphs from the book "Icelanders" by Un- and is open for exhibition. nur Jökulsdóttir and Sigurgeir Sigurjóns- Permanent exhibition. son. March 28 2009 - September 2010 Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum February 12 - ongoing ICELAND :: FILM Who is who? Traces the evolution of Icelandic filmmak- February 15 - ongoing ing, exploring myths versus modernity. A Moment with Sigurjón Ólafsson March 10 - ongoing The Nation and Nature Reykjavik Museum of Photography Thomsen & Thomsen Thirty-minute film about the relationship An exhibition of portrait photographs and between humans and nature. Film plays views from Reykjavík, from two different continuously during open hours. times and two photographers. Runs until Ási Art Museum August 29. Ólöf Nordal Models, a series of photographs inspired by the story of a man preserved in a glacier, and his son who discovers him Gallery. Ongoing until June 6. OUTSIDE The Library Room 12 August 2009 - ongoing National Archives of Iceland - 90 REYKJAVÍK years in the museum building. Commemorating the 100th anniversary of Akureyri Art Museum the Culture House. Straumur / Burðarás The Dwarf Gallery Ongoing til 27 June. Ongoing Exhibiting new works by various artists. An independent art gallery with ongoing Part of the Reykjavík Arts Festival 2010. Cruze around Iceland and exhibitions. It´s located in an old base- Rýminu, Akureyri ment. Do you really need to know any Aftursnúið (Dance show) more than that? May 22, 23 & 28. Starts at 20:00. collect some interesting points. The Einar Jónsson Museum The performance follows two individuals Permanent exhibition: and their attempts to tackle uncertain (500 Icelandair Saga Club Award Points for every rental with Sixt rent a car.) The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson. situations, taking on the world after it has Gallery Ágúst been turned upside down. 1500 ISK. Equivocal the Sequel The Icelandic Settlement Centre, Contemporary photography by Katrín Borgarnes Elvarsdóttir. Runs until June 26. The Egil Saga/ Settlement Exhibition Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum In these exhibitions The Settlement Cen- Gljúfrasteinn was the home and work- tre tells the sagas of Iceland's settlement Sixt Rent a car - Borgartún 33 - 105 Reykjavík, Iceland place of Halldór Laxness (winner of the and Egill Skallagrímsson, Iceland's most Phone: +354 540 2222 - www.sixt.is - [email protected] Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955). famous viking and first poet . 11–19, SatandSun13–17 18–20
101 Gallery Art Art Tue–Sun 14–17 Tue–Sat 1–17 Thu–Sat 14–17 and byappoint- Tryggvagata 15|D2 Tue–Sun 13–17 The IcelandicSettlementCentre 437-1600 421-2225 Artotek The EinarJónsson The Culture House dwarfgallery1.html Vatnasafnið /Library ofWater 230 Reykjanesbær 230 Outside Reykjavík Outside Árbæjarsafn ASÍ ArtMuseum Artótek 220 Hafnarfjörður 310 Borgarnes 310 ment Open daily11–17 08:30–16:00 Open weekdaysfrom Opening Hours:Fri andSat Grundarstígur 21|H6 www.libraryofwater.is www.skulptur.is www.thjodmenning.is www.startart.is www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100/ www.101hotel. www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/ www.this.is/birta/dwarfgallery/ 585-5790 www.hafnarborg.is www.fotografi.is www.landnam.is www.sudsudvestur.is Gallery StartArt Gallery Augafyrir Gallery 100° Eiriksgata |G4 Eiriksgata Laugavegur 12B|E4 Bæjarháls 1 Kistuhylur 4 |G4 41 Freyugata Brákarbraut 13-15 Hverfisgata 15|E4 Hverfisgata Hverfisgata 35|E4 Hverfisgata Hverfisgata 18A|E3 Hverfisgata Hafnarborg Hafnargata 22 Hafnargata is/101hotel/101gallery/ Stykkishólmur Fótógrafí Dwarf Gallery Borgarnes Hafnarfjörður Keflavík Mon 10–21,Tue–Thu 10–19,Fri Strandgata 34 Strandgata Skólavörðustígur 4a|F4 Suðsuðvestur Biskupstungum, Reykholt Skatfell Centre for Visual Art
Julia Wenz & Christian Eickhoff work Triology A weekend filled with reenactments, from May 22-23 Viking Festival ence. all that is viking. staged fighting to craft making, basically together, creating an audio-visual experi Mondays-S Open: Sundays 16:0-2 | Venue finder ca No tering s GALLERIES &MUSEUMSGALLERIES w of tur 13–22. www.nylo.is –GalleryTukt Thu–Fri 11–17 /Sat–Sun13–16 Tue–Fri 12–18/Sat11–16 Thurs–Sun from14–18 Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat13–17 and Tryggvagata 16|D2 461 2610 461 464-4390 Ásabyggð 2 Ásabyggð Museum Akureyri Art Austurstræti 6|E3 appointment onweekdays. Vitastigur 9a|E3 Vitastigur Akureyri 600 Akureyri 600 Akureyri 600 Akureyri 600 660 Mývatn 660 poptrem.blogspot.com/ Gerðuberg 3-5 www.galleriagust.is www.listasafn.akureyri.is www.gerduberg.is www.turpentine.is www.myndlist.is www.visitmyvatn.is www.hitthusid.is Gallery Ágúst Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Gallery Turpentine Gallery Kling&Bang Gallery Fold Ingólfstræti 5|E3 Baldursgata 12|F4 Baldursgata Kunstraum Wohnraum Kaupvangsstræti 12 Populus Tremula Kaupvangsstræti 12 Pósthússtræti 3-5|E3 Hverfisgata 42|E5 Hverfisgata 14-16|G7 Rauðarástígur Hafnarfjörður Hafnarfjörður Hraunvegi 8 by appointment.www.i8.is this.is/klingogbang/ Hafnarborg Lost HorseGallery Living ArtMuseum Hitt Húsið Havarí Mývatn Wed–Sat 12–17 Mon–Thu 11–17 /Wed 11–21/ Mon–Fri 10–18/Sat11–16 Mývatnsstofa Weekends from13–19andby Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 /Thu Sun 14–16 Strandgötu 34, Strandgötu 34, 28|F6 Skúlagata i8 Gallery T R A days 1:30-2 | Venue finder -
f Shedding light on the extraordinary artist Ásgeirs Emilsson's Art and Life Ongoing til 30 June. and opening a window into his unique mind. Part of the Reykjavík Arts Festival 2010. ering vice! 13–17- -www.ljosmyndasafn Tryggvagata 16|D2 Tue–Sun 12–17 Tue–Sun 11–17 Tuesday throughSunday14–18 Tryggvagata 17 |D2 472-1632 483-1727 470-0692 Austurvegur 42 Aðalstræti 17 |D2 Austurmörk 21 The NumismaticMuseum The Nordic House The National The NationalGalleryof 710 Seyðisfjörður 710 700 Egilsstaðir Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculp- 210 Hveragerði reykjavikur.is natmus.is Open Mon–Fri 13:30–15:30. Open daily10–17 Open daily10–16 Open daily10–17 Grandagarður 8|C3 www.nordice.is/ www.listasafn.is www.skaftfell.is www.listasafnreykjavikur.is www.listasafnarnesinga.is Einholt 4|G7 Fríkirkjuvegur 7|F3 Laugarnestangi 70 Laugarnestangi Listabraut 3 Listabraut LÁ Art Kaupvangi 7 Flókagata |I7 Flókagata Sigurjón ÓlafssonMuseum Seyðisfjörður Iceland Museum tography Reykjavík MuseumofPho- Reykjavík MaritimeMuseum Reykjavík CityTheatre Reykjavík ArtMuseum Reykjavík ArtGallery Reykjavík 871+/-2 Hveragerði Egilsstaðir Kjarvalsstaðir Hafnarhús ture MuseumSigtún Weekdays 12–19/Sat–Sun Sturlugata 5|H1 Sturlugata |G1 41 Suðurgata Skaftfell Skúlagata 28|F6 Skúlagata Sláturhúsið
Spör ehf. AND OTHER EXCITING DAY TOURS ADVENTURES Diving/Snorkeling Tours -Private Tours Horse RidingTours -WhaleWatching Tours Glacier Tours -SuperJeepTours -CarRentalFlight/HelicopterTours Tourist Access-Sightseeing Center-Internet Information Icelandic Travel Market [email protected] - [email protected] - 4979 522 +354 Tel: Downtown - 2 Bankastræti - CENTER BOOKING Check our Special Offers Offers Special our Check GLACIER
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F D by the sea and a delicios lobster For your mind, body and soul at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri REVIEWS Frango e Arroz, e Tudo de Bom Portuguese-speaking food in Reykjavík One thing that first struck me about Reykjavík’s food-scene is the plethora of ethnic selection. For such a small city, this place offers a world-tour of restaurants that rivals other cities of comparable size. That being said, some countries are more amply Spör ehf. -Spör Ragnheiður ehf. Ágústsdóttir represented than others (I’m looking at you, Thailand), so it’s nice to see a couple of new countries step up to show 101 what their homeland gastronomy is all about. Let’s all extend a warm Food Page welcome to Portugal and Brazil!
Piri Piri Is Hot, But Is It Hot Enough?
Nestled down near the harbour their chicken is “glazed with hot piri Piri Piri (Geirsgata 9), Piri Piri is marked with a piri sauce,” I found myself feeling lied Geirsgötu 9 rooster as iconic to Portuguese eateries to. Don’t get me wrong, the chicken as the golden arches are to McDonalds. wasn’t bland ole breast meat but it’s a What we think: Good, “They put on such a beautiful Inside it’s a clean-lined, spacious place painful stretch to call the glaze “hot”. simple chicken meal for us. We had the most dominated by roomy booths lining the It did, however, have a pleasant hint of Flavour: Could use more piri piri amazing freshest fish I've walls and featuring a sprawling playroom barbecue flavour that was nice but not Ambiance: Casual, clean ever had in my life. It was all with goodies to keep the kiddies overpowering or blackened. The bird so perfectly cooked too... entertained whilst their parents get down was accompanied by a fresh yogurt-like Service: Friendly and helpfully Beautiful!” to the more serious task at hand: Eating sauce and a red sauce that delivered more honest chicken. of a bite. Try mixing the two together Jamie Oliver’s Diary The menu boasts quite a few ways for a mouth-watering combination. The to take your chicken—whole, halved, sides were nice, though they suffered quartered, topping a salad, etc. My the same ill-fate as the piri piri glaze, I’m lunch date and I opted to share a whole afraid. The black-eye bean salad was a chicken with a choice of two sides nice cold accompaniment and the tomato (2640 kr.); we went with black-eye bean rice, while a really great texture and salad and tomato rice, but plain white consistency for a cold rice dish (i.e. it’s not rice and French fries are also available. dry) could have benefited from maybe a Having become accustomed to puny pinch of salt or maybe just more of the chickens (compared to the super sized flavour that was trying to distinguish the variety native to North America), we grain from its plain white cousin. were optimistic the portion would fit our For the incredible price Piri Piri is appetites. Once the food arrived—rather a place I plan on going back to, either quickly—we were wishing there was a with two other people or with a hungrier third person to help us out. It turns out a guest. It’s good, simple chicken. whole chicken is a lot of food no matter the continent! Catharine Fulton JULIA STAPLES While Piri Piri’s menu states that
Food & Drink | Venue finder 3 Frakkar Balthazar Geysir Bar/Bistro Icelandic Fish & Chips Mokka Sjávarkjallarinn Baldursgata 14 | G4 Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D2 Aðalstræti 2 | D2 Tryggvagata 8 | B2 Skólavörðustígur 3A Aðalstræti 2 | D2 Aktu Taktu Bæjarins Beztu Garðurinn Indian Mango | E4 Sólon Skúlugata 15 | E6 Tryggvagata | D3 Klappastigur 37 | F4 Frakkastígur 12 | F5 Nonnabiti Bankastræti 7a | E3 Alibaba Brons Glætan book café Jómfrúin Hafnarstræti 9 | D3 Sushibarinn Veltusund 3b | D2 Pósthússtræti 9 | E3 Laugavegur 19 | F5 Lækjargata 4 | E3 O Sushi Laugavegur 2 | E4 American Style Café Cultura Grái Kötturinn Kaffi Hljómalind Lækjargata 2A | E3 Sushismiðjan Tryggvagata 26 | D2 Hverfisgata 18 | E4 Hverfisgata 16A | E4 Laugavegur 21 | E4 Pisa Geirsgötu 3 | B2 Argentína Steak- Café d'Haiti Grillhúsið Kaffifélagið Lækjargötu 6b | E3 Svarta Kaffi house Tryggvagata 12 | D2 Tryggvagata 20 | D2 Skólavörðustígur 10 Pizza King Laugavegur 54 | F5 Barónstígur | F6 Café Loki Habibi | F5 Hafnarstræti 18 | D3 Sægreifinn Austurlanda- Lokastígur 28 | G4 Hafnarstræti 20 | E3 Kaffitár Pizza Pronto Verbúð 8, Geirsgata hraðlestin Café Paris Hamborgarabúlla Tó- Bankastræti 8 | E4 Vallarstræti 4 | E2 | B2 Hverfisgata 64A | F5 Austurstræti 14 | E3 masar (“Bullan”) Kaffivagninn Pizzaverksmiðjan Tapas Á Næstu Grösum Café Roma Geirsgata 1 | B2 Grandagarður 10 | A1 Lækjargötu 8 | E3 Vesturgata 3B | D2 Laugavegur 20B | E4 Rauðarárstígur 8 | G7 Hlölla Bátar Kofi Tómasar Frænda Prikið Thorvaldsen B5 Deli Ingólfstorg | D2 Laugavegur 2 | E4 Bankastræti 12 | E3 Austurstræti 8 | D2 Bankastræti 5 | E3 Bankastræti 14 | E5 Hornið Kornið Ráðhúskaffi | E2 Tíu Dropar Bakkus Domo Hafnarstræti 15 | D3 Lækjargata 4 | E3 Tjarnargata 11 Laugavegur 27 | E5 Tryggvagata 22 | D2 Þingholtsstræti 5 | E3 Hótel Holt Krua Thai Santa Maria Tívolí Ban Thai Einar Ben Bergstaðarstræti 37 Tryggvagata 14 | D2 Laugavegur 22A, | F5 Laugavegur 3 | E4 Laugavegur 130 | G7 | G3 Veltusundi | E2 La Primavera Serrano Vegamót Basil & Lime Eldsmiðjan Humarhúsið Austurstræti 9 | D2 Hringbraut 12 | H3 Vegamótastígur 4 | E4 Klapparstíg 38 | E4 Amtmanstígur 1 | E3 Bragagata 38A | G4 Lystin Shalimar Við Tjörnina Babalú Fiskmarkaðurinn Hressó Laugavegur 73 | F6 Austurstræti 4 | D2 Templarasund 3 | E2 Skólavörðustígur 22A Aðalstræti 12 | D2 Austurstræti 20 | E4 Silfur Vitabar | G5 Pósthússtræti 11 | E3 Bergþórugata 21 | G5 EAT and DRINK: 3 x Booze
1 Bakkus Bakkus is quite possibly the most wonderful bar in town. They’ve got great selection of vodka, plus all the usual suspects of beer, wine, spirits, and you can down them all on your way to pure mayhemic intoxication while surrounded by the works of local artist Davið Örn Halldórsson. So it’s cultured. Tryggvagata 22
2 Hemmi & Valdi For a more relaxed drinking atmosphere check out Hemmi & Valdi. It’s as cosy as drinking in your Grandma’s house, but with a bunch of strangers and, often, some really great bands, all squeezed in to drink with you. Laugavegur 21
3 Venue Venue is a good place to drink for two reasons: 1) they serve alcohol and 2) the lights on the ground leading up to the bar are kinda like a catwalk. Walk like you mean it when you go for that next beer. Work it! Brasilia Is Meaty, Stomp it out! Smeyes! Hearty, Heavy Tryggvagata 22 3 x Post-Drinking Eats If you’ve walked past Brasilia Brasilia 1 Nonnabiti (Skólavörðustíg 14) then you know it’s not Skólavörðustígur 14 The suitability of Nonnabiti as a post-drinking shy about its ethnicity. Proudly engulfed bite is attested to by the hoards of drunkards inside and out in the green and yellow What we think: Mixed bag who pack the tiny eatery in the late (and early) hours. Massive sandwiches filled of Brazil’s flag, the place is screaming Flavour: BRAZIL! “I’M A BRAZILIAN RESTAURANT, with salty, savoury, greasy, cheesy fillings—it Ambiance: Casual, clean makes drunk folk happy. GODDAMNIT!” And a huge Brazilian Hafnarstræti 9 restaurant at that. The place is sprawling, Service: Super friendly and so it’s a real shame that the tables were hospitable 2 Gamla Smiðjan largely vacant when my date and I went for This place serves up a shockingly delicious a bite of lunch. pie no matter the time of day or the amount of alcohol you’ve consumed, but you can likely That sentiment persisted upon eat more of it after pounding a few back. You ordering the mixed croquette’s (1200 ISK) won’t regret it. to start with and were presented with an portion of melted mozzarella is a bad idea. Lækjargata 8 assortment of breaded and fried nibblies Starters aside the dish was just slightly off. that would be perfect to share over a few Sure it tasted like cheese and meat, but 3 Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur beers in a more well attended bar. Included there was nothing really marrying those Hotdogs are almost the perfect food for a person under the influence. First of all, there in the mix were a chilli and cheese blend, two components into a cohesive dish. The are no clumsy utensils required for those less breaded and fried; shredded chicken, corn meat house was sided with a nice fresh dextrous occasions and, secondly, they’re and spices, breaded and fried; spiced beef salad, though, and the parsley dressing cheap so you can afford one or two with the in a lighter baked envelope that reminded drizzled on it was a hit. change in your pocket after blowing the rest my date of her mama’s home cookin’; and My chicken and rice was more of a of your dough at the bar. all the best segments of hot-dog in a fried batter that success than my date’s meal. The chicken Hafnarstræti 18 immediately made my date and I exclaim pieces were very tender and flavourful, 3 x Lobster Soup adventures “Pogo’s!” (that’s brand-whore for ‘corn as was the rice upon which it sat. Strewn dogs’). The shredded chicken was our with soft strips of bell pepper and other 1 Fiskfelagið (The Fish Company) take place favourite, though all together it was just veggies, it really was a nice and filling Their lobster soup will leave you absolutely speechless. So rich and creamy with the most under a bridge too much fried bar food with which to start meal. Strangely the food on one side of delightful hints of Asian curry flavours. You a meal; perhaps if it was shared among a my plate contained more spices and juices won’t just be talking about it days later, you’ll larger group the story would be different. from cooking than the other half and be dreaming about it. Moving on to the main courses, I was, therefore, better than the minimally Vesturgata 2 initially chose a fish dish but was informed seasoned portion. Points off for lop- 2 upon ordering that the fish is delivered sidedness. Sægrefinn There’s a reason this casual little fish shop fresh every afternoon, so I would have to Still, it was all nice enough. The entire down in the harbour is packed most of the return during the dinner hours for my dining experience could benefit from time—they serve up some fine seafood, with Drop in for our lunch offers or take the first choice. On the recommendation of the the infusion of some more customers; the crown jewel being their lobster soup. plunge and book a table for a culinary waitress I settled on the chicken and rice eating alone in such a large space is lonely Get it with a nice spear of whale meat and (1890 ISK). My date was helplessly drawn however friendly and hospitable the wait- you’re set. experience without a match! Geirsgata 8 to a mysterious dish called Meat House staff. Being able to order my first choice of (1870 ISK). I don’t blame her. Really, how dishes would have been nice too, and I’m 3 Við Fjöruborðið AROUND ICELAND without ever leaving could anybody of sane mind turn down the not sure why fish can’t be delivered before Við Fjöruborðið specialises in Icelandic promise of a house of meat? lunch. lobster. They know how to prepare it your table, four course trip,the only way to travel. Well, the meat house was a bit of a dud. masterfully. They make a mean lobster soup. Take a trip around Iceland under the guidance of After such a heavy starter it turns out that Catharine Fulton If I were a lobster I’d want to be made into a JULIA STAPLES soup by Við Fjöruborðið. a layer of spiced oxtail topped with a hefty our chefs. Tantalize your tastebuds with only Eyrarbraut 3a, Stokkseyri the best of what both the land and sea have to offer treated with a daring choice of herbs and spices from all corners of the island.
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THE BIGGEST CLUB IN DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND. WWW.NASA.IS The Reykjavík Grapevine WTF IS REYKJAVÍK VOTING FOR? Issue 06 — 2010 15
You are called Jón Gnarr and Icelanders know sense of wellbeing they derive from that— until you are an adult. You will need to spend you well, but most of our readers do not. So any sense of wellbeing really—and make the best years of your life learning about After the collapse and its aftermath, I started reading the tell us, who is Jón Gnarr? them feel uncomfortable. Not that I want to someone something someone else created, local news websites and watching the news and political Er, well. I am a self-educated artist that has hurt anyone. I just hate being categorised, then you can go do something. Not everyone been involved in various projects. I have done placed in a shelf. That’s one of the things I fits into this model, which creates the need talk shows—and it filled me with so much frustration. acting, writing, directing, worked in advertis- am enjoying about Besti flokkurinn. for concepts and “problems” that need defin- ing and created a plethora of comedy shows. I also really enjoyed being Catholic, espe- ing, which brings us to psychiatrists and psy- Eww! So I wanted to do something, to fuck the system. And I’ve starred in some feature films. cially how it got on so many peoples’ nerves. chologists. I guess I think of myself as a sort of think That was really fun. Especially people of my To change it around and impact it in some way. tank. I think a lot. My head is like an airport, generation, folks that have made up a very Fucking the system like Heathrow. It’s never off; there’s always firm opinion on faith and religion. The Cath- And I think... Wait, you were asking about someone coming or going, but no one stays, olic Church is THE ESTABLISHMENT in the the party? Well. I’ve listened to all the empty On being a simpleton ‘The Wire’ as yardstick because I am very forgetful. I am a self-made world, really, no state or nation in history has political discourse, but it’s never touched me As a potential voter of yours, and someone A lot of the “unconventional” parties that man, and I have never ever taken the conven- survived longer than they have. It seems to at all or moved me, until the economic col- who is likely to take your party seriously, I still we’ve had in Iceland have, once in office, tional path to anything—I have no formal have this foundation that works, and that is lapse. Then I just felt I’d had enough of those have to think: “How can I know what they re- wound up either aligning with some of the education. one of the things that fascinated me about it. people. After the collapse and its aftermath, ally want to do?” You have no platform, so I Big Four parties [see page 6], or disintegrat- Did you ever believe in it? Was it all a perfor- I started reading the local news websites and can’t know. ing. How do you envision Besti flokkurinn’s “I have always been a rather shock- mance designed to get a reaction, or did you watching the news and political talk shows— This is something I’m confronted with every future? ing character” sincerely count rosaries and stuff? and it filled me with so much frustration. day now. This morning I wrote an article Say we managed to secure 2–4 candi- At age eleven I gave up on school. I refused to No, well, I never got that deep in. Everything Eww! So I wanted to do something, to fuck about making Iceland a haven for electric dates, I would take it all very seriously, I learn the multiplication table, Danish—pret- I’m doing with Besti flokkurinn, it’s all the system. To change it around and impact cars, for turning it into an electric car haven. I would ensure city politics run smoothly and I ty much everything I couldn’t see a practical backed up by research and facts. Even though it in some way. I went to Austurvöllur and believe we need to stop importing oil and use would advocate for my polar bear plan [enter a use for. I wanted to be a circus clown. When some people think it’s nonsense—it isn’t. protested during the pots and pans revolu- electricity. That’s my opinion, but of course I long, rambling speech about various odd par- I was thirteen I had dropped out of school I just like to try a lot of things, you know. If tion, but it felt pointless to me. I didn’t really wrote the article with lots of intentional faux ty objectives, polar bears, tulips, banksters on completely and was sent to a boarding school you are a straight man and you want to ex- feel any need to scare Geir Haarde—he’s just pas in it, I wrote it like a simpleton. I like ap- parole, etc. etc.] ... for delinquents and troubled teens at Núpur periment with having sex with another man, a grown man that was sick. I don’t feel rage pearing as a simpleton [laughs very loudly], But would you consider forming a majority al- in Dýrafjörður. I had a lot of peace there and it doesn’t mean you need to be marked for life against anyone really. Not the banksters ei- like when I gave a speech at the University liance with another political party? Anyone in room to do my own thing. At age fourteen I as gay or bisexual or whatever. You don’t need ther. of Reykjavík and shouted that I had risen particular? Anyone you would not work with? was an active member of many international to be placed in some shelf or category, even This political world of ours is formed by from the ashes like the bird Felix. I was just I would not work with the Progressive Party, organisations that were being founded at the though that makes it easier for society to deal some sort of co-dependency that’s ingrained waiting for some blogger type to correct me and I hope that party just up and leaves and time, the Campaign For Nuclear Disarma- with you. in our society because there are so few of us. on that. That gets the party press and expo- ceases to exist, at least in Reykjavík. But I ment, Black Flag, Greenpeace—I joined a lot People should do what they want to, in the If you are an insane alcoholic that doesn’t sure, and as soon as they do, I can stand aside, don’t know. I don’t really know the people of radical organisations and even was part of heat of the moment. And I, uhm, I have va- know how to interact with others, you aren’t laugh and let the facts or essence of what I running, and I don’t really differentiate be- a letter writing campaign to jailed anarchists. cancy on this earth for eighty some years, and ousted from politics—they’ll make you an was saying do the talking. tween parties. It depends on the people. If I I had a lot of free time to delve into that stuff. I want to try it all so I can form an opinion of ambassador somewhere, or form a commit- We still have three weeks until elections am hanging out at the Left-Green office and Your artistic output has always been rather it, without borrowing someone else’s. tee for you to run. That’s how our politics [when we conducted the interview] and we we are all talking about The Wire and all of avant-garde and on the edge. How have you As for the basic tenets of Catholicism; the works. might well print a platform. I am just sort of them agree that it is the best show ever made, manage to gain the mass appeal that you existence of God and that he materialised in In Sicily they have a strong system, a mob improvising and playing it by ear now. I think and then someone from the Independence have, with [comedy troupe] Fóstbræður, [radio Jesus Christ and did all sorts of crazy things... system, where everyone has a family name this is very fun. I did publish a piece that was Party shows up and they haven’t heard of The show] Tvíhöfði and your other assorted proj- well. For example, one of the founding beliefs with which they can be identified. By that, a sort of manifesto for the party, no joke, and Wire, I know who’s fun, and I know who I’d ects? of Catholicism is that of parthenogenesis; everyone knows who you are, which village I am sort of improvising and trying to carry rather work with. When I was a kid, I read a book with the let- that the Virgin Mary was just out walking and you are from and who your uncle is. But over on from that. Still. If you compare, say, the Independence ters of Franz Kafka. I loved him. I read The all of the sudden got impregnated by the Holy here, you’re maybe called Einar Guðmunds- So you foresee potentially introducing a plat- Party and the Left-Greens, they are very dif- Trial and Metamorphosis, and also this book Ghost. I don’t believe that. It’s nonsense, it’s son and no one has any idea who you are. And form before the election? All of your cam- ferent parties with very different platforms of letters. In it—and this deeply affected illogical, and it makes it hard for me to affirm this is where the political parties come in as paign is regarded as a joke thus far. and policies. One is for privatisation and pri- me—he says that the purpose of art, or what the Nicene Creed. I don’t believe it, I can’t Well, our platform has been revealed pretty vate enterprise, while the other runs a leftist, makes it important, is to unsettle us, to shock help it. My father was a cop, and much, directly and indirectly. Of course it’s socialist platform. Leave aside if the members and surprise us and to make us think. To I can believe that Jesus existed and can relative, what’s a joke and what’s not. Comedy are fun or not, but you must admit that these evoke feelings that we were maybe unaware agree that he was an important man. But a big communist supporter. is very temporal; today’s joke might be tomor- are two very different ways of viewing society, of. I have always been a rather shocking char- whether he did everything that’s credited to row’s pressing issue. I don’t consider the po- and unhinged power to either of them would acter, ever since I was a kid. It has always him, I don’t know. And there’s no way to find He was a police officer for lar bear idea a joke—polar bears are widely surely impact Reykjavík massively. been part of my personality, to shock. As a out. But as for religion, there are a whole lot considered an endangered species, and I hon- Well, yeah. I would, yeah. If we’re talking four year old, I used to go up to people on the of smart people that have been involved with 45 years, and was never estly believe it would be better to store those about us getting four candidates in... If we get bus and ask if they had been fucking. “Are religion over the years; it would be dumb to that make it over in a zoo, rather than execut- the majority we would just take the reins and you always fucking?” I’d ask, and my mother dismiss it. promoted or earned rank, ing them on sight. It’s not farfetched—there control everything. And put running the city would have to rush me out. I have never had anything to revert to. I because he belonged to are polar bears in zoos all over the world. in the hands of skilled professionals. I think I consider myself an artist, and I am my have no education, I’ve got nothing. I can’t go As for placing a toll on the people of Selt- the city as an entity and structure is perfectly own subject. I am the only thing I have to back to being a sailor if my career fails. And the wrong political party. jarnarnes [a municipality next to Reykjavík] capable of running itself without the help of work with. I’ve always had to use myself as a subject for when they want to enter the city, I only think politicians. They spend half their day work- There have been very harsh responses to my thoughts and projects. I got paid 15.000 That’s how our system of it as normal that they would have to con- ing for their party interests anyway. almost everything I’ve participated in. When ISK for each column I wrote for Fréttablaðið, tribute to our city’s funds, as they use a lot of I was with Tvíhöfði, and with Fóstbræður, and it during was a period of my life that I works, in a nutshell. Every our services—we put out their fires, for in- An anarchist in disguise? we used to get sued a lot, even though the was interested in Catholicism. But I could stance. At a time when we have to cut back on Still, this is important. If people are to vote stories rarely made it to the media. When just as well resign from the church right now. problem is solved through our services due to lack of funds, they—the for you, even if they buy into the whole irony Fóstbræður [a very popular sketch show on It has no meaning in my life anymore. richest community in Iceland—brag about and dismantling of politics post-modernism Stöð 2] was showing, the station had a record knowing someone, through paying the lowest taxes in the country. thing, they still must be able to discern what number of unsubscriptions. In the station’s Dead and vapid discourse you stand for, and how you will handle certain history, there have never been as many sub- Are Besti flokkurinn’s platform of “transpar- nepotism. You need to A cultural revolution things. For instance, I was in city hall when scription cancellations—folks were doing it ent corruption”, absurd pet projects, etc., the Are you saying that you support progressive the Independence Party and the Progressives to protest the show. And Tvíhöfði never mea- “ironic” generation’s way of saying that’s what know people to get things taxation policies, that the wealthy should pay voted for selling the city’s shares in HS Orka sured high in the listener polls, actually. The you stand against, that it’s something you higher taxes than the poor? This is a common to Magma Energy [read more about that else- other stations had a much bigger following. would never do? Is it—as one would maybe done. Iceland must be platform for socialist parties... where in this issue]. Frankly, I was very surprised by the fol- hope, seeing that you seem to be winning the Well, I don’t know the taxing system, it’s very The sale was very much in line with the election—a reaction to the fact of how politi- a horrible country for complicated. If it were up to me, no one would Independence Party platform, and it was cal speech has become polluted and diluted, immigrants. pay any taxes. I don’t like paying taxes, I am heavily opposed by the Left-Green counsel- All systems are against how politicians’ honesty and integrity are always in debt to the tax office and I’ve been lors, in keeping with their platform and out- creative thought, because public laughing matters that no one takes badly hurt by the system. It’s unfair and I spoken policy. I do not want my government seriously? nice substitutes—they form these alliances want to change it. selling off or privatizing Iceland’s resources, they are fully formed and Political discourse is all dead and vapid. Yeah, that are sort of patriarchies and feudalist sys- I was attempting to define you politically, to and if I am to vote for you, I need to know yeah. I’ve never been interested in gover- tems, descending from the system we had in associate you with an ideology. What you said where you stand on that issue. And many oth- positioned on a shelf, and nance or politics. I am very much opposed the 12th century. We have the same four par- could easily be summed up in a platform. ers. They are important, polarizing ones! to the idea that someone out there can in- ties, the socialists, conservatives, farmers and I just think it’s natural that the people of Selt- It would be easy for me to say “Left- proud of it. It’s how they terfere with my life and the thought angers social democrats, they occasionally change jarnarnes should pay for the services they’re Greens are the only party I will work with.” me. None of this politics thing has ever in- names or split up but at the core remain the receiving. Is that true? survive. terested me. I’ve never watched Silfur Egils same systems of feudal privilege that we’ve But do you envision—to make some people’s No, but I could say it. Just to say it. And then [local political talk show] or listened to talk always been governed by. lives easier—making a platform? A policy tell people later on that I’d been joking, that radio. I don’t even know the politicians. I met My father was a cop, and a big commu- that you swear to follow. I’d rather work with the Progressives. That’s lowing Næturvaktin got. I had thought it was [Independence Party leader] Hanna Birna on nist supporter. He was a police officer for Ehrm. I can imagine doing that. what politicians do. But I think... Policy? the type of show that would only be appreci- the set of a TV show and I had no idea who 45 years, and was never promoted or earned Let’s take that tax system as an example. What can I say. We are sort of an “indepen- ated by a small, smart crowd that ‘got it’. she was. rank, because he belonged to the wrong po- There are phrases, like lowering taxes for the dence party” [laughs]. Our ideology aims at All these people, these politicians, have litical party. That’s how our system works, in worse off, and increasing them for the rich- securing our independence. That we don’t I want to try it all never been on my horizon, yet they’ve had a nutshell. Every problem is solved through ies. It would be very nice to do that. But what wind up as tenants in our own country. You are often regarded as an Icelandic coun- a tremendous impact on my life. And then knowing someone, through nepotism. You we really need is to re-think the taxing sys- I have said that Besti flokkurinn is an terpart to Andy Kaufman, in that the whole there are the businessmen that have in effect need to know people to get things done. Ice- tem. It is one of the most stagnant systems in anarcho-surrealist party, combining the best of society seems to be your stage, and the given me the chance to work with what I want land must be a horrible country for immi- this country. But it’s not alone. It’s all dead. bits of anarchism and surrealism. And it’s audience is often unsure of whether you are to work on. Jón Ásgeir [Jóhannsson, bankster grants [laughs]. The tax office is dead, the customs office is always been my political conviction, really, joking or not. A case in point would be your and head of Baugur] is one of them and he As for the political lingo... it’s sometimes dead. RÚV is dead. These are the institutions anarchism and surrealism. But if I went and ‘Catholic phase’ [for a period, Jón claimed seems to own Stöð 2, where I have been given said that politicians in the US are superfi- that make up the foundations of our society, said that on Stöð 2 news or on a talk show, he was a born-again Catholic, and he wrote numerous opportunities to work and create, cial. That’s wrong. To succeed in politics in and they are all dead. Bleeeeh. that we are an anarchist party, then the public many, many op-ed columns discussing his albeit on take it or leave it terms. I don’t own the US, you need to be very smart, or at least Are you, in all seriousness saying that you would place a different meaning on us. “This newfound faith, often sounding disturbingly the copyrights to anything I’ve created. Jón to have someone working with you that is. would like to restructure and organise society isn’t Jón Gnarr, this is some sort of crazy an- ‘born again’]. In this light, a lot of what you’ve Ásgeir does. Over here, you can just trudge forward like from the bottom up? archist party,” they would say. Maybe it’s just been doing with Besti flokkurinn seems And that’s the way our society works— a bull without any regard for anything... and Yes. Gnarrism? to make sense—anyone can run for office, you have an idea you want to execute, and you still make it. Like Bjarni Ben [head of the Are you calling for a revolution? And on the political compass, anarchism and if they do they will get media-time and need funding for that. I have never gotten a Independence Party] said that my party’s Yes. I am calling for a cultural revolution. is to the left. But I am against a hegemony a chance to stir up things. Is your campaign chance at [state broadcasting agency] RÚV, following bore “a sad witness to the fact that Is that a realistic goal? Is your candidacy a part that dictates what one should do. Banning really some sort of subversive, public perfor- which is supposed to support Icelandic cul- maybe the parties failed in establishing ‘a liv- of it? things. Banning strip clubs and internet mance art? ture. But that institution is in the hands of ing telephone connection’ with the voters...” Yes. I hope we undergo a cultural revolution access. I can’t sign on that. What’s it to me I’ve never really been a big fan of Andy politicians—they control it, and stagnation What a bunch of empty hogwash? What does here; that we start experiencing ourselves as a if someone wants to spend their time on in Kaufman. I like some of what he did, but he serves them well, because life and movement that even mean? He is the head of the nation’s nation in a new way. And I have some ideas on strip clubs or smoking crack or surfing the was never a favourite. So I can’t really answer are... the system is always against creative largest political party, and this is what he has that. As with the nation’s independence. I feel web for pornography. I think the political par- that. Ehrm. Yes, there’s no connection in my thought. All systems are against creative to say? These phrases they’re using, when it is being threatened. We need to reaffirm ties in Iceland are at such a dead end. They mind. thought, because they are fully formed and conversation is turned into ‘a living telephone it, which is where something like switching are done. But could you be categorised as “in the same positioned on a shelf, and proud of it. It’s how connection’ and people become ‘individuals’ over to an electric car system would come in. vein” as Andy? they survive. and everyone accepts it as some authority? To define and underline our uniqueness, to Yes, categorisation. I am against that. We are Creative thought threatens them. It I am plainly tired of all this empty BS, creatively lead in some aspects. There is po- such a clever species of animal, we love defin- threatens the school system, which begins by and Besti flokkurinn is in a primitive way tential there – we could serve as an example ing everything. I like depriving people of that teaching us that creative thought is worthless protesting against it. for the rest of the world. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2010 Amadou and Mariam is one of the finer acts to visit Iceland in a long time. Those of y'all that didn't make it to their show: Shame on you! 16
Dr. Gunni’s History Of Icelandic Rock | Part 17 Music | Live Review Purrkur Pillnikk – The Rhythm Got Them. The Most Active Band Ever! Eventually
Ahh... 1981. The best year in Iceland's rendered in the song Tilfinning (“A Feel- cord more new songs. "It's our pleasure It started with the biggest group hug I‘ve Amadou & Mariam ing”), a 52 second glorious blast of jazz- to make records," Einar said in an inter- rock history. At least for me, a 15 year ever seen. I strolled into the rather sparse Retro Stefson old who’s life music had taken over com- punk: "It's not about what you're capable view. "We always lose money making arena and up to the front of the room and pletely. Bubbi Morthens and his Utan- of, it's about what you do.” records, we do not stand or fall with our quickly saw that the dance floor was full, Laugardalshöll, May 12th, 2010 garðsmenn—the most popular band in Gramm Records was founded pur- next record." It was to become Googoo- but everyone was parted like the Red Sea. Iceland—were already passé for forward posely to release PP's début EP, but went plex, a set of two 12"s, "disco-style". Mu- Retro Stefson bounced around onstage, the stage and the first row of seats. With- thinking dudes like myself. My early idols on to become the main indie label in Ice- sically and lyric-wise the 13 new songs in a breakdown of their infectiously in moments she was joined by a second Fræbbblarnir, with their simple bar grip land for most of the early eighties, or until did not add much to PP's palette, but the danceable song Senseni, leading a clap- woman. Then I turned my head to the Ramones-inspired punk pop, just weren’t Smekkleysa was founded by the same album included the band's best known along and a countdown. Before I could left and beheld a glorious sight—the kids doing it for me anymore. Now it was time people in 1986. Gramm soon opened a song, Augun úti, much later used by Gus- even get my hands into rhythm with the from Retro Stefson went to the back of the for "deeper" stuff, so I turned to Joy Divi- record store where you could get super Gus in the song Forever. crowd, they yelled “four, three, two, one!” room, gathered all the dancers and were sion and their Icelandic counterpart Þeyr, hip records from labels like Rough Trade Purrkur Pillnikk had supported The and the parted audience rushed towards dancing their way down the aisles with a as The Fall and Purrkur Pillnikk. and Crass. PP played incessantly. Einar's Fall in Iceland in 1981 and in spring 1982 each other, arms akimbo, teeth grinning massive conga line in tow. In a split sec- In 1981 it seemed like every garage stage act was provoking, he was all over the band travelled to England to play 11 and shouting wild and joyfully, into each ond, everyone was up on their feet and the had a band rehearsing in it. The feel the place, screaming and challenging gigs with Mark E. Smith and co. After re- others’ arms. Too stunned to process the seated audience had their view blocked was similar, I guess, to what happened the audience, while the other guys stood turning the band set out to play more, but heart-warming sight in time to take part by the wall of gyrating, writhing, sweaty in Iceland after The Beatles broke in the gravely staring at their instruments, still as often happens with Icelandic bands, in it, the only natural reaction was to start people. sixties. After a period of stagnation and learning how to play them. the country's tiny population and limited dancing. Then the song ended, and that disco pop in the late seventies, suddenly Einar Örn had already been "punk" opportunities were wearing their stamina was their time. FTW! everybody wanted to be in a rock band since 1977 (he had lived in England with down. The clap-alongs became more intense (or punk/new wave band to be more pre- his parents). He had helped with The PP's last ever gig was in late August WTF? and frequent. All the French-speaking au- cise). Stranglers' and The Clash's concerts in of 1982, where the band played five new After the quickest, most efficient set dience sang along at the top of their lungs. In the Menntaskólinn við Hamrahlíð Reykjavík (1978 and 1980) and acted as songs in a medley called Orð fyrir dauða change I’ve ever seen, the guests of hon- People of every age and persuasion danced college, which was already famous for the manager of Utangarðsmenn. In the ("Words before death"). PP's death our were graciously escorted onstage by with each other with a primal genuine- being the breeding ground for bands like summer of 1981, he accompanied Utan- twitches could be heard on two post- crewmembers as their band set the tone ness, smiling and spinning and grinding Spilverk þjóðanna and Stuðmenn, future garðsmenn on an ill-fated Scandinavian humous releases, No time to think, a 4 with a low-down groove. The crowd then around the floor. Friends hugged, lovers Sugarcubes Einar Örn Benediktsson and tour that would end the band 3 months track 7" sung in English, and Maskínan proceeded to… sit perfectly fucking still kissed, strangers held hands and moved Bragi Ólafsson along with two friends later with fistfights and near-starvation. LP (“The Machine”), a collection of live for the first seven songs. Despite the well- freely. It was one love, baby. wrote and rehearsed nine songs in an When Einar returned to Iceland there recordings. It came out two years after blended bluesy African beats and indie After a nice lengthy set full of stellar afternoon in May and played them live was no way Purrkur Pillnikk would do the the humble beginnings in MH. To their pop overtones, spectacular light show beats and beautiful singing, the audience for their fellow students the day after. The old songs again, so the band set out to credit, Purrkur Pillnikk have never made a and numerous clap-alongs, the Reykjavík unanimously demanded more from this band, Purrkur Pillnikk, was to become the write new material. In August they went comeback and probably never will. It was Art Festival elite kept their knees tightly band that had come all the way from Mali most active band in Iceland's music his- to England and recorded the classic Ekki a spur of the moment thing. crossed and their hands gently folded to play the opening ceremonies of the fes- tory. enn ("Not Yet") LP in 50 hours at Crass' - Dr. Gunni across their laps. Except for a handful of tival. They ended the night with massively The early songs were short and fast, Southern Studios. folks dancing to the extremities of the extended versions of three more songs, with clever lyrics. In less than a month, The album was released in Novem- By Dr. Gunni, based on his 2000 book Eru ekki stage and all the way at the back of the including their wonderful love song Je the band had already recorded their de- ber and sold well (at least for this kind of allir í stuði? (Rock in Iceland). room, it was about as crazy as an Amish Pense à Toi (I’m Thinking of You), during but 10 song 7" EP, Tilf. The band's state- music), shifting 1500 copies. The songs funeral. Mariam suddenly left the stage, which Mariam affectionately caressed her ment—as well as the era's statement—was were longer, more complex, and the lyr- aided by a crewmember, but it was actu- husband’s head and neck, both of them ics were powerful and thought provoking ally only for a very awesome costume smiling in complete puppy love with each 1. Purrkur Pillnikk – Doing their as ever—alienation and agony being the change. other. It was enough to give a hardened great alienation and agony stuff at main ingredient. The album's longevity is Suddenly, one brave woman with no cynic the vapours. Hótel Borg in 1981. obvious; it went and scored #46 last year shoes on strayed from the small group 2. Purrkur Pillnikk – Ekki enn – the in a "Best Icelandic albums ever poll." of dancers to stage-right and danced her Rebecca Louder Julia Staples band's masterpiece. In early 1982 the band set out to re- way into the large, barren space between
SUPER JEEP & SNOWMOBILE TOURS Mountaineers of Iceland • Skútuvogur 12E • 104 Reykjavík • Iceland Telephone: +354 580 9900 [email protected] • www.mountaineers.is • www. activity.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2010 17
Music | Album Reviews
Carpe Noctem Jón Tryggvi Who Knew Carpe Noctem Silkmjúk er syndin Bits And Pieces Of A Major carpenoctemiceland jontryggvi Spectacle A great debut from one of Iceland's The music is as grey and washed wellwhoknew most promising metal bands out as the album’s cover Who Knew? I certainly didn´t ... Black metal may be Satan’s music but At school, most people would go Ever since Jakobínarína disappeared, the only I time got scared listening to mental over Indie or the latest dance Iceland has been crying out for a Carpe Noctem’s excellent debut was music. However, there was always rousing INDIE ROCK band to rally at the beginning of Metamorphoses someone who would glide around behind. OK it hasn’t, but it certainly Maleficarum, where Iceland’s leading acting like a 40-year old, saying they looks like Who Knew are applying for religious zealot is heard screaming at were into the likes of Nick Drake and the job with their debut album. his flock. Jeff Buckley, saying that the music “spoke to them” about their lives The first thing you notice when you Carpe Noctem sing in Icelandic (what, having an argument with your listen to the thing is how similar the and our beloved language fits this mum and dad?) songs sound and feel. This is probably music perfectly. I was delighted to due to more than half the songs being notice song names like Vargsfæðing And this basically sums up Silkmjúk in the same key of A (or as professional and Skálholtsbrenna. The music is er syndin. Citing the Drakester & musos call it, “the drunken anthem straightforward and the guitars form the Buckster, Dire Straits AND key”). Their sound too is a sort of a massive wall of sound that I liked. the Chemical Brothers among his hideous Manbearpig chimera of all I thought the songs were too much influences, Jón Tryggvi has created the main indie sounds going at the alike though. The singer switches something that strips any vitality moment. The head of Wolf Parade, the between low growling and high from the above and leaves behind a lungs of Clap Your Hands Say Yeah!, pitched screaming and does his job hideously vapid, watery nonsense. the left bollock of Black Kids, etc. well. However, the drum sound is The whole album screams “I’m playing disappointing and dull. old style acoustic pap to show my This should all sound horrible and world-weariness and gravitas.” Still, if derivative. But the album is propelled All in all, this is a great debut and I’m you want an excruciating slow death along by the sheer force of its own looking forward to hear more from by mid tempo organ solo, then go right self-confidence and positivity, as well these guys. They may look and sound ahead. as some sterling work on the bass mean and evil but my guess is that - bob cluness and drums. So no prizes for original they’re just creative little orphans dying outstanding work, but definitely a to be heard. winner for the hop along indie anthems - birkir Fjalar Viðarsson this year. - bob cluness
Exploding out of the gate in true Plastic Gods, Muck and Severed Nasum fashion, both guns grinding, Crotch. They are no strangers to good with an evil yet instantly memorable stuff, but you cannot really tell from main riff. To make a long story short, this. No doubt we can have fun with every Logn song, save for one, slays this in a live setting, but I’ll rarely go and impresses with remarkable back to this on CD. ease. For a debut recording that is - birkir Fjalar Viðarsson essentially a demo, really—their oldest member is 16—it’s a frighteningly focused and well executed effort and the majority of the music is not only promising, but simply fucking good. My only proper complaint is the blandness of the vocals.
Logn / Manslaughter Manslaughter’s focus is lacking, which is evident in how the songs end, or Split the lack of direction as to how they should finish them. Too many parts lognmusic / manndrap just fizzle out into nothingness, which leads me to believe these compositions One band is focused as all hell but and recorded efforts are not serious. as a consequence, the other one Manslaughter is made up of members feels bereft of it. from distinguished scene bands like
Kraum of the crop Aðalstræti 10 101 Reykjavík Designers unite in Kraum, Tel: +354 517 7797 the first store in Iceland www.kraum.is dedicated entirely to Icelandic design, displaying over 120 Opening hours: Mon-Wed 09:00-18:00 selected designers. Kraum Thu 09:00-22:00 has breathed new life into Fri 09:00-18:00 Reykjavík´s oldest house dating Weekends 12:00-17:00 back from mid 17th century. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2010 This is the second section of a four part short story by former Grapevine editor Valur Gunnarsson. We have read the entire thing, and we can tell you right off the bat that it is a pretty damn awesome read. So stay tuned for THE 18 FOUR SPIRITS in our next issue.
Literature | Short story Article | Conference God Returns To Iceland pt. 2: Barbara Ehrenreich Ghosts Is Coming! of Pompeii
The Lord thought about Pompeii and wondered why he did not do this more often. From the perspective of infinity, the days all tended to roll into one, but this was one he could remember clearly. In the early morning, he had ob- served a group of children setting fire to an anthill just outside of Her- But these Icelanders had never subject, but nothing came to him. culeaum. There seemed to be no pur- created anything. They were com- Nothing refused to turn into some- pose to their activity, other than hear- petitive to a fault, but they only com- thing. This had never happened ing the sound the insects made when peted in the collection of money and before, and for the very first time, they burst. Perhaps this was the sum the consumption of alcohol. They he felt old. He needed inspiration. of all human endeavour, and the Lord bragged about both, but were good That’s all that was missing. wanted to play too. at neither. Their buildings were a re- God decided to explore his canvas. He lit up the sky and all those un- flection of their bank accounts, vast Like most visitors, he found much to derneath it. Snap, crackle, then pop. and empty. admire. It was not quite as polished American New York Times columnist and Maine to Minnesota, she worked as a wait- Flesh melted away and the bones A more patient God would have wait- as the White Cliffs of Dover, or as best-selling author, essayist, feminist, and ress, a hotel maid, a cleaning woman, a made a pleasing sound when they ed to find out what happens to ma- meticulously crafted as the Greek activist Barbara Ehrenreich will be the nursing home aide, and a Wal-Mart sales cracked in the heat. terialists stripped of material things, Islands, but it had a certain rough keynote speaker at the Icelandic Network- clerk. She lived in trailer parks and crum- One might be forgiven for think- to see if they would repent and turn charm to it. Iceland had been created ing Conference, which will be held May bling residential motels. Very quickly, she ing that it was in retribution for the on to a better path. But this was not during one of his more experimental 27-29 at Bifröst University. Widely consid- discovered that no job is truly "unskilled," anthill that the children of Pompeii a patient God. He was a creator God, phases. He had to admit that though ered one of the greatest, most provocative that even the lowliest occupations require were reduced to cinders. Not so, for impulsive and intemperate. He had he hadn’t put much thought into it social critics of our times, Barbara is the exhausting mental and muscular ef- from the perspective of heaven there created mankind in his own image, at the time, the outcome had been author of 16 books, including Nickel and fort. She also learned that one job is not was very little difference between the curious and at times cruel, but al- better than he expected. The wild Dimed, which won the Los Angeles Times enough; you need at least two if you intend two. Others surmised that it was be- ways with the ability to dream. He combination of styles that reminded Book Prize and was named one of the de- to live indoors, and demonstrated in often cause of its greed that Pompeii was could not stand a people without some of a granite Sahara and others cade's top ten works of journalism by the heart-wrenching details how employers destroyed. There was some truth in imagination. of the moon convinced him that the Arthur L. Carter Journalism Institute at and managers often manipulate and take this. If there was something the Lord When the Pompeiians gave up on country might be worth keeping. NYU. Another speaker at the conference advantage of workers' poverty and desper- detested, it was greed. This was not trying to outdo the Greeks in terms It was when traversing the east is Sigríður Benediktsdóttir, one of the au- ate circumstances. because of any notion of right or of culture and turned to the pursuit coast of Iceland that the original com- thors of Alþingi's investigative report into In her latest book, Bright-sided, Bar- wrong, indeed he cared as little for of money instead, he grew bored with poser of words, the one whom some Iceland's bank and economic collapse. bara exposes the crippling downsides of one as for the other. The Lord’s dis- them. As it turned out, their demise claimed was the word itself, was at a Barbara is renowned for her campaign the "positive-thinking" industry: personal like for greed was purely aesthetic. was far more interesting in visual loss for things to say. His highlands, for women's rights. She holds a Ph.D. in bi- self-blame and national denial used – at Greed rarely created anything; it left terms than their existence had been. which he now recalled he had put ology from The Rockefeller University, but the cost of clarity, common sense, and real- nothing behind by those who suc- Though not as enduring as feats of precisely there to be out of harms’ early on dedicated her critical and research ism – to brush off poverty, disease, and un- cumbed to it. creation such as Mount Everest or way when the humans came, had skills to writing. She was a regular contrib- employment to rationalize a system where The Renaissance Italians had Kilimanjaro, the Lord still thought of been partially ruined. The vandals utor to Gloria Steinem's Ms. Magazine, is a all the rewards go to those at the top. The killed each other over access to land the pillar of smoke rising out of Ve- had dug dams in them and poured columnist for The New York Times, Time theme of this year's Networking Confer- and gold, to be sure, but they also suvius as one of his major works, a mounds of concrete over until there magazine, Harper's, The Nation, and is a ence – Empowering Women is Courage, competed in sculpture, in painting, wonderful piece of performance art. was nothing left to view but the col- frequent and popular TV talk show guest. Communication, and Change of Mind. in every form of art. The Sistine But how to do away with Iceland? lecting of króna. This was precisely She is widely regarded for her biting, witty Sigríður Benediktsdóttir, the other key- Chapel had endured long after per- Volcanoes were his weapon of choice why he detested greed so much. writing style; she has been called "the note speaker, will discuss courage in the sonal fortunes and their owners were when it came to destroying civilisa- The earth started trembling un- Thorstein Veblen of the 21st century," and wake of the events leading up to and caus- ground to dust. The petty kings of tions, and he had placed plenty of der the Lord’s feet. He would have The London Times called her the Jonathan ing Iceland's economic and bank collapse. Germany had schemed against each them in the vicinity for precisely run the remains of the island into Swift of the 90s for her sharp insights and In addition to the keynote speakers, thirty other, but their attempts to outdo one this purpose. Still, the idea of re- the sea then and there, had not the exposes of the excesses and injustice borne other women will speak at the conference another also took the form of musi- peating himself bothered him. He mountains silently reminded him by those on capitalism's underside. on various issues. cal appreciation. To this day, when- had unleashed the fires in Iceland that his quarrel was not with the In writing Nickel and Dimed, Bar- The Networking Conference, which ever the Lord listened to a recital of once before, and even that had not land, but its inhabitants. He had to bara—inspired in part by the rhetoric sur- was founded by Dr. Herdís Þorgeirsdóttir, Mozart’s Requiem, even he felt com- been much of an improvement on erase them somehow, without dam- rounding welfare reform, which promised professor of law, is by far the most popu- pelled to believe in the possibility the Vesuvius eruption. Was it true aging the canvas. that a job—any job—can be the ticket to lar and influential conference that takes of an afterlife for creatures who had which the philosophers said, that his a better life—decided to join the millions place in Iceland. It was first held in 2004; created something so enduring. Not best works were behind him? It was of Americans who work full-time, year- in 2008 the conference was attended by only the Italians and the Germans all well and good to destroy cultures round, for poverty-level wages. But how 500 women. The conference agenda and and the French had created some- through sound and fury, but he was does anyone survive, let alone prosper, registration, as well as information about thing that could be called culture, past that now. He wanted a more ma- on $6 an hour? To find out, Barbara left lodging, is available at www.bifrost.is even the English had something ap- ture offering. He wanted it all to sig- Valur gunnarsson her home, took the cheapest lodgings she proaching it in between their colonial nify something. Illustration by Inga María could find, and accepted whatever jobs Íris Erlingsdóttir exploits. He thought long and hard on the brynjarsdóttir she was offered. Moving from Florida to Sigrid Estrada
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Opinion | Bob Cluness Rock Da Vote! (or maybe not...) HI Hostels Reykjavík - your affordable quality bed I always make sure, against my better judgement, to We’ll be here, to arrange the most take every opportunity to Check out our exciting excursions at assimilate myself with Icelandic website at the best price, and customs and culture. Attend a Þorrablót? www.hostel.is offer you local advice Been there, chewed on the gristle. on how to get the
Handball game? One of the first phrases most from your stay Reykjavík City Hostel I learnt was “Áfram Ísland!” in this wonderful city. Reykjavík Downtown Hostel. Another thing I was truly looking Stay at Reykjavík City forward to was taking a chance to vote Hostel or Reykjavík in my first election. The Reykjavik city Downtown Hostel. council elections are taking place on the 29th May, and although unable to vote in “She has politely refused to National elections as I am “unclean” and not an Icelandic citizen, I believed I was make a protest by wiping eligible to vote in the municipal elections. her arse on the ballot and I even saw this as an opportunity to act more of an arsehole than usual and filming it” doorstop the members of the political parties at the polling stations with an as to who is able to vote. And in Iceland array of questions such as: they will likely explain that they have this rule in place because of “the very close To the Independence Party: What ties that we have with our Scandinavian are your current views on moving the brothers abroad” blah, blah. domestic airport as they seem to change Well here is the interesting bit. Over with the weather? And is it true that Bjarni the years, the rest of Scandinavia has Ben´s chin is hollow and he uses it to store gone with the times and granted equal food in the winter months? voting rights to all foreign residents, not just Scandinavians. And as Denmark, To the Progressive Party: Your leader Sweden and Finland are part of the has all the charm and beauty of an EU, the 3-year residence rule has been illegal seal cull. What is your position on abolished for all EU citizens. So while improving the local transport situation? the rest of Scandinavia has realised that many other nations are just as important To the Social Democrats: It’s nice as their close neighbours, Iceland is still that you have Lady Gag a´s mum as your lumbering with the idea of two legs good, leader. Is she going to bring an album out two legs with blonde hair and a voice soon? that goes “Schmurgen, Jurgen, Bork!” is better. To The Movement: Why do you all look But thankfully my wife is an apathetic like a total bunch of freaks? nihilist of the purest kind and she has offered to use her vote for the party of But then a calamitous piece of bad my choosing (she has politely refused news... This damn paper, the one that to make a protest by wiping her arse on you’re reading, goes and informs me the ballot and filming it). This poses the that I won’t be able to vote after all! It intriguing question. Just whom WOULD seems that for foreign people to vote I actually vote for? In some ways it´s like in municipal elections, they must have choosing between herpes, syphilis and lived in Iceland for 5 years UNLESS you gonorrhoea. None of the main parties are from a Scandinavian country, then seem to have the vision, integrity or the it’s only 3 years! Apparently, this is down balls to do anything other than blame to something called the Nordic passport foreigners, take the money and scream union, a treaty designed to allow freedom “more smelters!” Perhaps I should go of movement, rights of residence and running into the welcoming bosom of Jón Step into voting rights for citizens of Scandinavian Gnarr´s Best party. They may be a joke, The exhibition and countries. What? Are you actually trying but at least I can laugh at them without museum shop are open to tell me that the Finns are somehow needing to break down into tears of daily 10–17 more important than moí? All they do despair... is drink vodka, eat smoked moose, get the Viking Age Aðalstræti 16 101 Reykjavík / Iceland depressed and bore everyone about how Phone +(354) 411 6370 interesting Mika Hakkinen is. I can do all Experience Viking-Age Reykjavík at the Multimedia techniques bring Reykjavík’s new Settlement Exhibition. The focus of the past to life, providing visitors with insights www.reykjavikmuseum.is that AND my stories are much funnier. exhibition is an excavated longhouse site which into how people lived in the Viking Age, and But what´s wrong with Iceland having dates from the 10th century ad. It includes what the Reykjavík environment looked like this rule you may ask? Surely it is the right relics of human habitation from about 871, the to the first settlers. of each country to designate its own rules oldest such site found in Iceland.
The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2010 If you've never been to Kolaportið, go there. It's cool. 20
Article | Shopping Art | Fart The Hawkers And The Foragers Let The Farting Kolaportið is an ecosystem of used goods Commence! artFart starts the fart
Words The good people behind the artFart festival Stephanie Orford will be writing us occasionally this summer, giving a sneak preview this year’s programme Photography and some insight into the inner-workings of Julia Staples producing an independent arts festival in Iceland. For those that have not yet become ac- quainted, artFart is an international, con- “I’ve seen flea markets here temporary arts festival that takes place in and there, but nothing like Reykjavík every August. Since 2006, art- Fart has taken up residence in theatres, this. I mean, I would call this galleries and alternative spaces across a market, a marketplace.” Reykjavík to present a programme of performance events that provide a space for artists and audiences to come to- gether and celebrate contemporary per- formance here in Iceland. As an independent festival, we pride ourselves in being Iceland’s foremost presenter of both homegrown and in- ternational contemporary performance, and seek to represent the work of artists that may otherwise remain massively un- derrepresented in this country. There is a fast-growing wave of new homegrown artists, and an unprec- edented level of interest from interna- tional groups offering an awesome array of performance delights. artFart, armed with a tiny budget and a penchant for Kolaportið, Reykjavík’s one and only flea repeat customers. “They collect books. in the wrong place if they use the word Kolaportið: A Sampling punching above its weight, is lining up market, is a chaotic writhing mass. Every They collect knives, razors, bottle open- “vintage” to describe their merchandise a series of miniature art-world coups to species occupies a niche in this harbour- ers.” Now she picks out items and saves in the first place. Their wares represent Sweater Store: Long underwear, accommodate them all. side warehouse: vendors of all stripes, them for her regulars. only a select sliver of the broader world plastic necklaces, and traditional It is still very early days in the artFart and buyers to match. Some are shed- of used goods, so for those of us who get Icelandic patterned sweaters, hats, 2010 calendar. Although preparations for ding old things while others are gather- The foragers a thrill from pawing through mounds of bibs, baby clothes, dog clothes. securing funds are now moving health- ing them back up. It’s the perfect venue The market attracts anyone who’s hunt- used things in search of The Find, they’re Victoria’s Secret Store: Zebra ily into their final phase, the process for to play cultural ecologist, studying how ing for a bargain. Kolaportið was even a little boring. There’s no hunt, and the print bra, peace sign hoodie, Tender programming and scheduling the three- everyone does their part to make the flea featured in the internationally acclaimed price mark-up reflects that. Despite their Whisper body lotion, candles that week event is still very much an open look like rocks, Talking Brick Game market work. Icelandic film 101 Reykjavík—the charac- beautiful collections, shopping at these field. portable electronic game, Fashion ters got a deal on a tacky artificial Christ- places feels like cheating. There are a few insider secrets that I Forms shoulder pads. am at liberty to share, however. The hawkers mas tree. Jóna Ásgrimsdóttir, part-owner Meanwhile Kolaportið lays the whole Joe’s Garage Sell & Buy: Strump- I can reveal that artFart’s 2010 head- Perhaps 40 or so vendors occupy Kola- of Kolaportið, says customers range from kit n’ caboodle in your lap whether you arnir (Smurfs) 4 DVD, Algjör Sveppi quarters will set up camp in an enor- like it or not. It’s like walking through a portið on any given weekend. Among the “poor people to the bishop. People like og leitin að villa DVD (a kid’s adven- mous warehouse space down by the ture), Night At The Opera by Queen used goods sellers, there are three major you and me, and famous people. Mainly kaleidoscope of junk. harbour. The space is called Útgerðin on vinyl, Please Hammer Don’t Hurt classes. Some regular sellers are profes- Icelandic.” In some ways, however, Kolaportið and will host many of the indoor works, ‘Em by MC Hammer on CD. sionals. They buy from the real raw sec- The sections of the market draw dif- is a little tamer than a classic flea mar- workshops, and talks taking place at this Candy Shop: Brjóstsykur hard ond-hand places like Góði Hirðirinn and ferent customers. Younger people gravi- ket. Icelanders don’t really bargain, and year’s festival. candies, Sport Lakkrís, coconut- there’s even a restaurant with tables so The theme of this year’s festival is the Red Cross store, then mark up their tate to the used clothing, Jóna explained, covered chocolate cylinders, giant wares for sale every weekend. but the grocery section of the market is shoppers can rest their feet. Guðmundur fruit gummies. ‘alternative spaces’ and part of this fo- Other vendors, like Ásta Ólafsdóttir, frequented by older people, perhaps be- Björn Sveinsson, one of the many sellers Fish Market: Red seaweed, dried cus has led to the creation of a specific are at Kolaportið just for a day or a week- cause younger generations aren’t very of dried Icelandic fish, said Kolaportið is haddock, rotten shark, smoked hali- artFart programme entitled The Reykja- end. “I’m cleaning out my storage room,” familiar with some of the traditional Ice- straight-laced and well-organised. “I’ve but, cured salmon, fish balls, horse vik Public Space Programme: a series of Ásta explained. She’s making enough landic products. seen flea markets here and there, but meat sausage, smoked whale meat, performance events dedicated to the ex- ploration of contemporary performance from selling, she said, to make the stall Þorsteinn Hallsson, a young man sell- nothing like this. I mean, I would call this hanged lumpfish and cod. The Junk Part Of Kolaportið: practices that use public space as a plat- rental worthwhile for the weekend. It’s a ing potatoes, had experienced the same a market, a marketplace,” he said. “It’s a Mushroom statuette, slotted spoon, form. good way to wring a few last Króna from phenomenon. “Younger people eat rice,” little step higher.” cassette tape of “Aerobic Dancing,” Excitingly for the artists of Iceland, your old items on their way out. he laughed, suggesting that perhaps his Tarzan comics (in Icelandic), book part of this initiative includes a selec- And then there are the vendors whose customers were mainly older because Kolaportið is open on Saturdays and Sun- of sex positions with full-colour tion of workshops, all led by established selection of wares follows no rhyme or younger people don’t have as much pa- days from 11:00 to 17:00. photographs, 6 pairs mega-platform European artists. Even more exceptional reason. “Some people sell just junk. Re- tience for boiling potatoes. pumps, tin of marbles, cardboard is that these workshops will be free of ally old stuff,” said Ásta. box full of romance novels, baby charge and applicants will be selected Ingibjörg Magnúsdottir began sell- The environment Snugli. on the basis of their artistic motivation ing like Ásta did—cleaning out her closet. Kolaportið, which turns 21 this year, is a and interest, rather than by the size of But the project rapidly snowballed into a refreshing contrast to those vintage shops their wallets. hobby. Soon Ingibjörg began attracting along the main drag. You know you’re Alexander Roberts Vinstrihreyfingin - grænt framboð vill beita sér fyrir róttækum þjóðfélagsumbótum almenningi til hagsbóta, hefja vernd og umhverfis tilnáttúru vegs á Íslandi og treysta byggð um 124,5x195mm in Reykjavíkopen The onlykitchen to and 23:30 01:00 Приветствyem pазнообразие Embracing Variety Zradoscia witamyroznorodnosc Suðurgata 10Iopið kl.13-18alladagaIsími5170723 [email protected] onweekdays onweekends Fögnum fjölbreytni Tel: 5512344|www.tapas.is Vesturgata 3B|101Reykjavík RESTAURANT- BAR » Icelandicsea-troutwithpeppers-salsa » Pan-friedmonkfishwithlobstersauce » MinkeWhalewithcranberry-sauce » Worldfamouschocolatecakewith » Startswithashotoftheinfamous berry compotéandwhippedcream » GrilledIcelandiclambSamfaina Try ourfamous Gourmet Fiest » Smokedpuffinwithblueberry allt land. Hreyfingin er samstarfsvettvangur og baráttutæki » Lobstertailsbakedingarlic Icelandic spiritBrennívín
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HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA – 09–0223 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2010 The East fjords of Iceland certainly offer one of the island's more beautiful landscapes. The people are also really nice. 22
Travel | East fjords East Winds Blow Good Hugging the curves of the edge of the world
There is a very small window of time between clearest, sunniest and warmest days one could Just emotions taking you over “Looking at the massive rising the winter and summer seasons when hitting hope for, given the timing. The sea to the right Then shit got kind of real. As we wound in and the road in a sketchy vehicle is ideal in this of us shimmered like silver, clouds shadowed out through the increasingly steep and acute mountains, the snow and clouds, country. Winter driving is a nightmare with onto the pure white snow still on the moun- fjords, the enormity of the landscape started indistinguishably white, and feeling the ever-changing and unpredictable weather tains and the wind rustled around the car. And to bear down, impressing just how miniscule conditions. Summer can feel a bit crowded. But then came the reindeer. and powerless we were against nature. Maybe a distorted perception of distance and for a few weeks towards the end of April and We spotted three herds before Lón, the car- driving through that ash cloud had residual time, something happens to you” into early May, a Tour De Iceland is a stunning commercial-esque road that hugs the cliffs effects. Regardless, looking at the massive ris- experience in solitude. along the coast before getting into the East ing mountains, the snow and clouds, indistin- The focus of this journey was the East fjords proper. It is quite uncommon to see guishably white, and feeling a distorted percep- building give the perfect feeling of swimming fjords, possibly one of the most wonderfully them so far south. Each herd was bigger than tion of distance and time, something happens right between the fjord and their dry-sauna in unsettling areas of Iceland. In order to take the next, some of them casually kicking it in to you. You really have to just shut up and look the basement was a pleasant surprise. our sweet time through our tour, a mad-dash the road. This left us with little recourse than to around. We ended our day’s journey with excellent to Höfn was made on the first evening, appar- simply pull over and hang out with them. Good pizza at the Skaftfell restaurant and art centre. ently driving through an ash cloud and into a times. “It’s big, but it has no soul” After quite a few pints and no other custom- dark blue doomy sky. After holding our breaths through the maj- After reeling our way out of the fjords, it was ers around, we struck up conversation with Waking up in Höfn is a pleasure. The moun- esty of Lón, we started hitting up the various just a stone’s throw to Egilsstaðir, where my co- the establishment’s owner, Nikolas, and a pair tains loom over the harbour-town to the north, towns of the area. The weather clouded over hort somehow suspected we would find a bet- of locals. My friend asked Nikolas why Seyð- with southern views of the very edge of the around Djúpivogur so we came into this sleepy ter time than in the town I was rooting to go isfjörður was so much nicer than Egilsstaðir, world. Although they are desperately lacking a little fishing town to stretch our legs and see a to — Seyðisfjörður. With my driver still scepti- even though the two towns are so close and the bakery or lunch spot that isn’t part of a mini- man about a horse, so to speak. Spotted locals cal, we started chugging up the mountain pass former is so tiny. “It’s big,” he said, “but it has mall, they have one of the greatest little pools in eating pylsur. Very appropriate. towards the 700-person strong fishing town. no soul.” Enough said. the country, which opened last year. No matter In Breiðalsvík, I was put to the task of prac- We rounded the final curve and saw rays of sun Then we got shitfaced. how cold or windy it is, climb to the top of the ticing my very limited Icelandic comprehen- creeping down the fjord onto this sparkly little waterslides for the view onto Vatnajökull. sion skills by asking directions to a restaurant toy-town and my friend began to ohh and ahh. from the only visible locals, two rather elderly I told him so. The hills are alive with the sound of women. They were cool. We lunched at Kaffi Upon our arrival we settled into a charming effing music Margrét, a restaurant attached to a lovely wood- hostel housed in the former hospital and hit Next began our long, leisurely trek through the en guesthouse with a chicken coop and a ridic- our second pool of the day. Seyðisfjörður’s pool East fjords. It got pretty awesome pretty quick- ulously cute dog. The meal hit the spot and they is indoors, but no less exposed to the elements. Rebecca Louder Rebecca Louder ly. For starters, we somehow landed one of the made some of the best hot chocolate ever. Huge vertical windows along each side of the
www.airiceland.iswww.airiceland.is
GRÍMSEY
BOLUNGARVÍK DRANGAJÖKULL ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR SIGLUFJÖRÐUR HÚSAVÍK HRÍSEY VOPNAFJÖRÐUR Krafla
BLÖNDUÓS AKUREYRI
FLATEY EGILSSTAÐIR NESKAUPSTAÐUR
Hallormstaður
Always best price online. STYKKISHÓLMUR Kárahnjúkar SNÆFELLSJÖKULL
ILULISSAT Greenland
CONSTABLE POINT BORGARNES Various online-offers to all Air Iceland's destinations. Greenland KULUSUK Greenland Gullfoss AKRANES Geysir NUUK Greenland REYKJAVÍK NARSARSSUAQ SIA.IS FLU 47569 10/2009 Greenland KEFLAVÍK Jökullónið
Blue Lagoon FAROE ISLANDS ÍSLENSKA
www.airiceland.is VESTMANNAEYJAR [email protected] / tel. +354 570 3030 ContactContact AirAir IcelandIceland oror travel agentagent for for reservation. reservation The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2010 Trip provided by Atv-adventures in Grindavík. Book trip: +(354) 857 3001 or Info@atv4×4.is Lift from Reykjavík to Blue Lagoon provided by Iceland Excursions. 23
Travel | All-Terrain Vehicles Romping Through Lava Fields An ATVenture
A 360° lava-scape panorama incredible story of Iceland’s Rescue Between Fiskidalsfjall (Fish-valley- Team, which has saved at least 260 mountain) and Húsafell (House- people off this small stretch of coast- mountain), we climbed up to a nice line since 1930. lookout where we got off our ATVs After the tour, we went to Bryg- to take in the panorama lava-scape gjan for some lobster soup. It was a stretching in all directions, the result small cosy restaurant on the wharf, of thirteen different eruptions in the looking out on the harbour. As we area from 250 to 10,000 years ago. chatted over lunch, I found out that Below us in the distance was the there is far more to Reykjanes than Blue Lagoon, slightly masked by the Keflavík Airport, the Blue Lagoon thick white steam rising from the and seemingly endless lava fields. geothermal plant. Kjartan told me Their longer ATV trips include a many of their guests bathe in the la- number of other attractions. There’s goon’s geothermal waters before or Gunnuhver, a muddy geothermal hot after the ATV trip. Note: Although spot. And, Valahnúkur, location of the ATV pick-up and drop-off is at Iceland’s first lighthouse and a great the Blue lagoon, the price of entrance lookout to Eldey (Fire Island), home is not included in the trip. to the world’s biggest gannet colony. To the left of the lagoon, at the foot Not to mention, they take people to of Þorbjarnarfell (Thor-bear-moun- a bridge crossing between America tain) was a small cluster of trees they and Europe. called, Selskógur (Mountain dairy- While their longer trips are pric- forest). Trees are especially uncom- ey, they sure seem packed with far mon given that area is covered with more of what Reykjanes has to offer lava rock, which is suitable for little than my tour allowed for in an hour. growth except moss. “We tell people Still, as we raced back to their garage, A walk through customs and a small parking lot. ATV Adventures works With my eye on the yellow vehicle if you get lost in a forest in Iceland, I was pretty content with the ride and wait for suitcases at the Keflavík In- with Iceland Excursion’s schedule to in front of me, I focused on keeping you just have to stand up,” Sigurður pleased with the family’s personal ternational Airport plus a dip in the get you on a tour and back in time to up with the group of some obviously joked. touch. Blue Lagoon just about sums up the catch a bus back to Reykjavík or on to experienced ATV drivers. “You’re do- Reykjanes peninsula for many tour- Keflavík airport, which can be quite ing great,” Sigrún Harpa Einarsdót- Speeding, shipwrecks and ATV Adventures’ “Panorama Tour” ists who then hop on a bus to Reyk- convenient. tir told me when we stopped. “For soup costs 9.900 ISK. There are more elabo- javík. But that’s glossing over the After a short ride with Kjartan, someone who has never driven an Looping down the hill, I took on the rate, more expensive tours available. incredibly vast expanse of lava fields we arrived at their home base in ATV,” she added. rocky path with more confidence. certainly worth closer inspection. Grindavík. With his brother, Jakob That was nice of her to say, I When we reached the bottom, we South Iceland’s Eyjafjallajökull Sigurðsson and father Sigurður Óli thought, as I continued struggling to continued on a gravel straightaway may have the limelight today, but Hilmarsson, they got to work out- keep the ATV going straight, which towards the ocean. Reaching 40 kilo- there are over 100 volcanic craters fitting us for the trip. A warm blue seemed to be an effort against its metres, what a liberating rush it was and thirteen different lava fields on jumpsuit, boots, gloves, helmet and will. As I approached particularly to race through the wind. the Reykjanes peninsula. And what we were set. rugged lava rocks I cringed in antici- We were heading to the ocean to better way to romp through the rocky pation of bottoming out. But the tires check out a shipwreck. The rusty terrain than by ATV—all terrain ve- Getting the grip of it took them on, no sweat, and I began brown ship had been ripped in two hicle. I put my finger to the lever and with a to relax. and thrown onto the shore, the bow This adventure begins early small jolt my ATV took off down the Finally, I got the grip of it when I in one direction and the stern in the morning at Reykjavík’s Iceland Ex- street. A driver’s license is required fully realised that I was driving the other. Before a proper harbour was cursions office, where we caught a to operate the vehicle, but on tandem ATV rather than the ATV driving me built in Grindavík, a large number bus to the Blue Lagoon. When we ar- rides, the father-son-trio told me they every which way on the uneven lava. of ships fell victim to the ocean’s rived, Kjartan Sigurðsson from ATV have had everyone from age four to It was that simple. powerful waves. Along with the rich Anna Andersen Hörður Sveinsson Adventures was waiting for us in the eighty. history of shipwrecks is an equally
www.airiceland.iswww.airiceland.is
GRÍMSEY
BOLUNGARVÍK DRANGAJÖKULL ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR SIGLUFJÖRÐUR HÚSAVÍK HRÍSEY VOPNAFJÖRÐUR Krafla
BLÖNDUÓS AKUREYRI
FLATEY EGILSSTAÐIR NESKAUPSTAÐUR
Hallormstaður
Always best price online. STYKKISHÓLMUR Kárahnjúkar SNÆFELLSJÖKULL
ILULISSAT Greenland
CONSTABLE POINT BORGARNES Various online-offers to all Air Iceland's destinations. Greenland KULUSUK Greenland Gullfoss AKRANES Geysir NUUK Greenland REYKJAVÍK NARSARSSUAQ SIA.IS FLU 47569 10/2009 Greenland KEFLAVÍK Jökullónið
Blue Lagoon FAROE ISLANDS ÍSLENSKA
www.airiceland.is VESTMANNAEYJAR [email protected] / tel. +354 570 3030 ContactContact AirAir IcelandIceland oror travel agentagent for for reservation. reservation The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2010 So, we've been researching a follow-up article on that whole shaky, awful Magma deal for a while. We were planning on running it in our next issue. Then Beaty pulled that ol' tunnel-sorry-gotta-go schtick on us. And we learned that everything he's told us is false. So we just had to get it in here. Sorry for the lack of photos and sexy layout - this is STOP THE PRESSES type stuff that we felt y'all needed to know. 24
Art | Galleries News | Lies Art Love-In Magma Energy Lied to Us
Villa Reykjavík to host galleries from all over Europe Let’s cut to the chase. The opacity of Ice- economic crisis] not happened, although landic business and politics has done the we may not have had opportunities that country, as a whole, no favours. Much we took advantage of. For example, going In July, the art world will come to Reyk- spontaneous, I think. That’s the way hand shaking and back scratching has into Iceland was strictly something that javík, and some musicians too. Com- that Raster Gallery operates. It was gone on behind closed doors and such could only have happened because Iceland mercial galleries from all over Europe more like, Reykjavík is so much fun, secluded business environments have had a calamitous financial meltdown in are uprooting their shows and trans- it’s such a great place. Why not do proved themselves to be breeding grounds 2008.” planting them around the city. The something here?” for lies, corruption, fraud, swindli ng, and On September 16, 2009, we asked Ross event, Villa Reykjavík, will be free to And indeed, Reykjavík responded downright thievery. Beaty if Magma had its eye on a majority the public from July 9 to 31. with open arms. The Centre for Ice- With Icelandic bankers being held in stake in HS Orka, to which he replied “no, landic Art, Kling & Bang Gallery, and local prisons and wanted by Interpol and we do not plan on getting a majority. I have Karol Sienkiewicz, a co-organiser of several other Icelandic institutions the once celebrated “outvasion Vikings” no interest in fighting Icelanders, particu- the event was here in Reykjavík re- here have helped the project onto its having their pants sued off by the Ameri- larly the government, over what is proper searching a guidebook, to come out feet. cans, now is a time to usher in a new, hon- energy policy in the country. The govern- in June, for visitors of the event. He est era of business in Iceland in an effort ment said they would accept Magma going says Villa Reykjavík is partly “about A perfect audience to get the country and its economy back on to a 50.0 % interest so long as Icelandic the topography. It’s about moving This year’s event will be quite differ- track and to restore the trust of the mass interests had the other 50 %. So that’s from one place to another, physical- ent from Villa Warsaw, which was populace in the system. neither minority or majority, it’s a rather ly.” For the thirteen participating gal- only a few days long and held in an awkward business position but certainly leries, which hail from cities includ- abandoned house in the middle of Enter geothermal corporation something that we feel can be workable ing Paris, Berlin, London, Warsaw, Warsaw. Villa Reykjavík will be al- Magma Energy of Canada and we certainly will be striving to achieve, and Milan, packing up and shipping most a month long, and will dot the In the summer of 2009 Magma Energy but not increase beyond that. That’s some- off to Reykjavík will be a major geo- city with galleries, rather than cram- developed an interest in Icelandic en- thing that we think should be acceptable Words graphical move, although maybe not ming them all into one space. This ergy company HS Orka. As we explained to the Icelandic government and, we hope, Stephanie Orford so much for i8, Iceland’s participat- year’s event will also be much bigger. at length in our October 2009 issue, HS the people of Iceland.” ing gallery. Opening week starts July 9 and will Orka was largely owned by FL Group, the The Grapevine followed that up by Photography About half the galleries have feature about two events per day, in- investment company of one Jón Ásgeir asking if Magma planned on making any Julia Staples chosen the artists they will exhib- cluding live music, artists’ lectures, Jóhanneson (the previously mentioned further acquisitions in Iceland, to which it. These will be everything from and performances. legally entwined outvader), the munici- he replied “No we don’t. No we don’t.” performance art by William Hunt The people of Reykjavík will also pality of Reykjanesbær (an Independence through London’s IBID Project gal- help make Villa Reykjavík a totally Party stronghold and loyal donator of Lies, lies, lies, lies, lies, lies, lies “The people are very lery, to a bust of an eruption survivor different animal from its predeces- funds to the party) and a couple of other lieslieslieslieslieslieslies creative,” Karol says of the in Martinique made entirely of volca- sor. “The people are very creative,” municipalities on the Reykjanes penin- On May 17, 2010, Magma Energy issued people of Reykjavík. “Not nic ash, by Rafat Bujnowski of War- Karol says of the people of Reykja- sula on which Keflavík airport sits. a press release stating the company is saw’s Raster Gallery. vík. “Not just the artists, but all the At that time Magma Energy had cre- “pleased to announce that it has signed an just the artists, but all the people. They sing in choirs, they ated a shelf company in Sweden to skirt agreement with Geysir Green Energy ehf Not an art fair paint, they really attend architectural Icelandic laws forbidding non-EEA com- ("GGE") to purchase all of GGE's stake in people...” As well as allowing the incoming art events, they really understand art, panies from owning any stake in the Iceland geothermal company HS Orka hf world to experience displacement and that’s fantastic. I think that also country’s natural resources and snatched ("HS Orka") resulting in Magma's stake and the new eyes that come with it, that’s the perfect audience for our up 43% of HS Orka in two separate trans- increasing to 98.53%.” the event’s main organisers, Michal project.” actions in July and October. Geysir Green On May 19, 2010, the Grapevine called Kaczynski and Lukasz Gorczyca, Though they want to make the Energy maintained 55.2% of the company up Ross Beaty to ask him a couple of ques- wanted to show that commercial gal- most of holding their event in Reyk- and a couple of surrounding municipali- tions about the recent goings on and he leries can be just as artistically valid javík, Karol and the other organisers ties held on to less than 2%. rushed off the phone saying “I’m just go- as public galleries. For example, Kar- don’t want to “exoticize” the place to ing through a tunnel and I’m just about to ol says, in Warsaw Raster gets very their visitors. There are several popu- Lies, lies, lies, lies, lies, lies, lies jump onto an airplane.” few local customers and makes their lar misconceptions about Reykjavík On September 16, 2009, Magma’s found- Are there tunnels on route to Keflavík sales mainly at art fairs in other cit- that Karol has personally confronted er and CEO Ross Beaty was asked by the now? ies. That means that when they’re at that he wants to make sure don’t de- Grapevine to respond to the suspicions of Iceland is in serious need of honesty home “they are making projects, they ter visitors. He finds the conception some that his company was in Iceland to and transparency. These massive deals research art history, doing the stuff that Icelanders are reserved is “total- take advantage of the country’s economic that put private control of the country’s that the museums usually do,” says ly not true. I find that the people are turmoil. He told us “I would suggest that natural resources in the hands of foreign Karol. so friendly, open minded, easy-going is ignorance and complete nonsense. It’s firms and are only made public knowl- Villa Reykjavík isn’t an art fair, that it’s so easy to make friends. I was just because they don’t know what we’re edge as the i’s are being dotted and the the event’s promotional material em- so surprised, in a good way.” all about and they don’t understand the t’s crossed will do nothing for restoring phasizes. Although art will certainly This visit to Iceland also blew oth- world that we live in. We’re not in Iceland the faith of the Icelandic people in their be for sale at the cluster of exhibi- er preconceptions out of the water. for any such reason. We’re in Iceland be- politicians and businessmen. Neither will tions, the main point of the show is On the weather, he says, “It’s not so cause it has opportunities for long-term politicians crying foul after the fact. art for art’s sake. cold.” About the prices? “It’s not that benefit where we can deploy capital and It would be nice if politicians acted in After they held the first version of expensive”—a point prospective visi- we can improve the condition of an Icelan- the best interest of the electorate and busi- this event in 2005, called Villa War- tors will be happy to hear. “I was told dic company for the long term. We would nessmen actually worked transparently saw, Reykjavík lured Michal and Lu- the only thing I would afford here be interested in Iceland under any circum- in the long-term interest of the economy. kasz for a second round. They fell in was the hot dogs, which actually are stances, absolutely, even two years ago [in How about we all get started with just a love with Reykjavík after several trips great.” Thankfully, visitors to Villa 2007] it would have been unchanged.” little honesty? to the city. It was Reykjavík that in- Reykjavík probably won’t have to live Eight months later, on May 5, 2010, spired them to create the event. on hot dogs for the whole festival. Ross Beaty told online investment news- But don’t expect this festival to Unless they want to. letter Hera Research Monthly “We would become an annual thing. “It’s more have been farther along had [the global Catharine Fulton
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+354 562 4200 Aðalstræti 2 • 101 Reykjavík • Tel +354 590 1550 • [email protected] [email protected] www.visitreykjavik.is www.eagleair.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2010 THE STRIPPING DEBATE CONTINUES! We still wish the Feminist Association of Iceland was more willing to engage in discourse on the subject. Their missive in last issue was kind of drab, 25 and conversation-ending. Get on it, association!
Interview | Stripping “Just Dancing” An attempted interview in one of Iceland’s dens of inequity
In March, the Icelandic parliament voted in favour of the so-called “strip law” ban- ning “naked exhibitions as a profession.” Wondering how employees in those “restaurants” feel about this, I set off to a strip club, Óðal, to interview the staff there. In a completely empty bar (it was a week-day) that—except for the stage— could have been any ordinary nightclub, I met an opinionated bartender and a charming girl in a skimpy outfit who both agreed to talk to me. What struck me the most is that nobody seems to know what the law means. So far, girls are not allowed to strip completely naked, so the law would technically not change anything unless the parliament invents a new defini- Free pick up at Hotels tion of nudity. That also means nobody Why did you decide to do stripping? Have you heard about the new law in knows what is going to happen when the Because my friends have been working Iceland that will ban strip clubs? Tel: 551 7000 law comes into effect. The employees of with this job for a long time. And when Yes, this is a stupid thing. If they close the Iceland’s strip bars might be thrown out I came here, I didn’t speak very good strip clubs I’ll just go to another country. at a moment’s notice or they might just English and I just knew a few words. And I don’t wanna go back to my home coun- From continue dancing, stripping down to now every day, I can practice my English try, though. 9.900/day their undies and serving their costumers’ when I speak to the costumers. For this You would go to another European Free GPS if you needs. job, I need English. If I just sit here with a country? bring this ad Asked what he thinks about the new stupid smile, I don’t make money. Also, I Yes, but only if the strip clubs close. My law, the Eastern-European bartender just like dancing. Icelandic isn’t good enough for a normal said it made him feel like back in the How are the customers? Are they day job. And I don’t want to work at Bó- old communist days of his home coun- mostly Icelanders or tourists? nus or something like that. try, where “people were drowning in all Mostly foreigners. Sometimes, Iceland- Why do you think the law is stupid? kinds of useless rules and regulations.” ers come here. But in a normal week, Because in a normal week, every normal He went on to wonder whether shut- there are more tourists. During the club here is closed. And then, the tour- ting down Iceland’s four strip clubs (yes, weekend, we get some Icelanders as ists come here just to have a drink or there are four of them) was as crucial as well. listen to music, not necessarily to check people are trying to make it out to be, Are the costumers nice? out the girls. and whether there weren’t other, more Not like that. Sometimes, some nice cus- But there are other pubs that are pertinent problems in Iceland at the mo- tomers come around, but not every day. open during the week. ment. But they’re not rude or anything? (Shrugs) www.procar.is | Fiskislóð 45 | 101 Reykjavík Talking to the admittedly charming No, they’re not. So you don’t think stripping is some- stripper with her sweet smile (who also How long are you planning to work thing bad? hails from Eastern Europe), the answers here? No, not at all. For example, when guys I got were about as uninformative as they I don’t know. Just for a while. buy a private dance, they just sit in a sofa could get. The following is a transcript of Do you work every night? and the girl is dancing, that’s all. There’s our non-conversation: Usually, yes. It’s very short working no prostitution or anything like that. hours; I’m off the whole day. Are you against prostitution? Licensing and How long have you been in Iceland? Does someone tell you how to dance Yes, definitely. 5 or 6 months. and talk to the customers? Are there So you think this is just dancing? registration of travel- Why did you come here? rules for that? Yeah, that’s all. I just came here to work. My friends are My friends taught me how to do this, the When you give private dances, working here and I wanted to join them. dancing and stuff. And when it comes you’re never naked? related services Do you like it? to talking to customers, it’s different ev- No, not here. But in other countries, of Yes, I like Iceland. ery time. Some customers have a lot of course private dancers can get naked. The Icelandic Tourist Board issues licences to tour operators and travel agents, And how is working here? questions; some just want to talk about Would you be okay with getting na- as well as issuing registration to booking services and information centres. Good. It depends on the days. When their lives. ked? Tour operators and travel agents are required to use a special logo approved there is a lot of customers, it’s fun. Oth- Are there sometimes problems with Yes, because the customer can’t touch by the Icelandic Tourist Board on all their advertisements and on their Internet erwise it can get a bit boring. customers? me. So if he likes me, why shouldn’t he website. So you like your work? The other day, some drunken customer look at me? I’m just dancing. Booking services and information centres are entitled to use a Tourist Yes. came here. We have security for that. Board logo on all their material. The logos below are recognised by the Have you worked as a stripper be- The customers can’t ever touch you. This Icelandic Tourist Board. fore, in your home country? is just a normal job, nothing bad or nasty No, this is my first job as a stripper. At about it, you know. home, I worked in an office. How many girls work here? List of licenced Tour Operators and Travel Did you get bored with that? 3 to 6. Agencies on: No, I just wanted to change and improve Sophia van Treeck visiticeland.com my English. Julia Staples
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Icelandic Cuisine at Hotel Reykjavík
Rauðará Rauðarárstíg 37 / 105 Reykjavík Tel: +354 562 6766 / [email protected] The Reykjavík Grapevine Events: Friday, May 28, 20:00 – Háskólabíó. Guy Maddin's Tales from the Gimli Hospital (1988), presented and Issue 06 — 2010 with Q&A by collaborator and composer Matthew Patton. Saturday, May 29, 16:00 – Nordic House. God morgen, hjarte (Good morning heartache): Billie Holiday in Nor- 26 wegian. Annjo K. Greenall (vocals), Vigleik Storaas. http://conference.inotherwords.is for ticket information.
Art | Conference Art In Translation An international conference on language and the arts
From May 27 to 29th, Words around sixty people from Shauna Laurel Jones twenty-one countries (eruptions permitting) will Illustrations gather at the Nordic House and the Karlotta Blöndal from the University of Iceland to talk about series Alphabet art, language, globalisation, and… Jerry Seinfeld. What should he sound like dubbed in Norwegian? That’s what Svein Høier of the Nor- sibilities and challenges of those who lack of a well-honed semiotic tradi- number of players in the art scene to wegian University of Science and are translating art history and theory tion in Iceland (admittedly, I don’t hold roundtable discussions on what Technology wants to know. French from an internationally dominant have a well-honed understanding of has happened in the past decade and artist Claire Artemyz wonders why language to an internationally mar- semiotics in general, so I can’t be what we can work on for the future. some people get tattoos in languages ginal one, or vice versa? While is- the judge). And a publisher of art The Art in Translation conference is they can’t understand. And Profes- sues like these have long been talked books with international distribution my drop-in-the-bucket contribution sor Yoko Ima-Izumi is coming all the about, taught, and theorised in the recently expressed a concern that to sparking a greater dialogue about way from the University of Tsukuba literary arena, few scholars have sys- is not his alone, namely, that some conspicuous and subtle linguistic as- in Japan to tell us how Godzilla films tematically investigated these topics non-native speakers write in English pects of the arts in Iceland. Extend- have been “misdubbed” for Ameri- when it comes to visual art, music, at a level or in a style not in keeping ing this dialogue to include individu- can audiences. film, theatre, and performance. with their true scholarly competence. als across the globe grappling with Lest you think the Art in Transla- Yet through multiple conversa- I suspect that it’s sometimes more similar concerns will only broaden tion conference is all fun and games, tions with colleagues and friends in complicated than a matter of pride our nuanced understanding of our let me assure you that these people Iceland and elsewhere, I’ve come to that certain scholars opt out of writ- circumstances here and how to face mean business. see that—of course—I’m far from ing in Icelandic and finding a skilled them productively and conscien- Many of the questions these the only one ruminating on the re- translator. tiously. scholars, students, artists, and pro- lationships between the big wide art I have a vested interest both pro- fessionals will address are similar to world and wee little countries like fessional and personal in the success, Art in Translation will be held—rain, shine, questions I’ve been pondering since Iceland with wee little languages like however it’s measured, of Icelandic or ash—at the University of Iceland and the moving to Iceland several years ago Icelandic. On a number of occasions, artists and arts professionals. Posi- Nordic House, May 27–29. All events are as an art historian. To name a few: I have mused with fellow writers on tive things are happening: Listfræða- open to the public and free (with the excep- is there art that can’t be adequately the difficulty of translating theoreti- félag Íslands, the Icelandic Associa- tion of a film screening; tickets may be pur- chased in advance). Check out the website, “translated” from one culture to an- cal texts written in English into Ice- tion of Art History and Aesthetics, http://conference.inotherwords.is, for the other for reasons of language or local landic; it’s not just that many foreign has awoken after a long period of schedule of diverse lectures, performances, knowledge? How do globalisation of terms have not been codified—a dormancy, and current president Að- and other highlights. For further informa- the arts world and arts discourse af- problem not limited to arts vocabu- alheiður Guðmundsdóttir has led the tion, email conference manager Shauna fect artists and professionals linguis- lary—it seems that some concepts coordination of colloquia addressing Laurel Jones at [email protected]. tically, and how are small language themselves are easier to express in various professional concerns. The communities adapting (or not) to other languages. One artist told me Reykjavík Art Museum held a re- new demands? What are the respon- that part of the problem lies in the cent event bringing together a large
Poetry | Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl Mad Skills A few words about the surprising qualities of sucking really hard
Recently I read on the news and perform a perfect “Buddha’s Re- play. And you can fake a poem. seem semi-coherent is an arduous This results in two things. that a man, one Kenny venge”, a “Reverse Double-or-Noth- This is because creative art isn’t task for a lazy person. If you want On the one hand poetry attracts Strasser, had successively ing” or—my God!—an “Elephant’s necessarily based on skill per se— respect in the visual arts you go to everyone who wants to be an artist duped the producers of nu- Trunk”. Then we either put our mon- or even talent. Creative art is mostly school—often you have to stay there without having to strain themselves merous TV-programmes into putting ey where our mouths are or we fold. performed on instinct, it’s created in for years! A modern composer doesn’t too much. Every lazybone, wannabe, him on the air on the premise that he Which is why most people don’t go a hinter-dimension, a subconscious get the time of day until he’s finished poseur and charlatan who wants part was a master in the art of the yo-yo. around faking mad skills they don’t and brought forth into the conscious a doctorate. Even a lowly singer/song- of the (perceived) “glamour” of being When put on the air, however, Kenny possess. They don’t want to get called world where the artist either uses his writer has to invest in a guitar—or an artist, becomes a poet. Simply be- got found out: He had no yo-yo skills. on. or her cognitive skills to “finish” the worse, a piano. cause it’s the easiest art to get away And while madly swinging his yo-yos, When it comes to the arts, prov- piece or throws it away before div- Nothing of the sort applies to po- with faking. beating himself over the head, bruis- ing talent or skill isn’t so straightfor- ing back into the hinter-dimension etry. A poet needs no qualification. On the other hand, for those will- ing his genitalia and trying to “fake ward though. Sure, you don’t really for new more interesting stuff. And There are no schools and the only ing to embrace it, it may provide it”, Kenny claimed he had no muscle fake the cello anymore than the yo-yo there’s no perfect, or even imperfect, required investment is paper and greater possibilities for creation— memory, and therefore perhaps the (although there’s more tolerance for way of judging it objectively. There’s pen. And if you can’t afford paper casual or stringent, oblivious, spon- yo-yo was not anything he’d ever mas- avant-garde weirdo shit in the cello- no Turing-test for creative arts. and pen you can always borrow your taneous, uneducated, stupid, banal, ter. Sorry. world than the yo-yo world—and yes, Yet most creative art forms require mother’s laptop. There’s nothing ob- kitschy, experimental, nutty—with- Now, lying to people is easy. Claim- breaking a cello while masturbating other kinds of ambition—other ways viously discernible about a poem that out any outer guidelines or official ing talent is something (almost) eve- and drinking your own urine can be of “proving” one’s dedication to (and says it’s “good” or “bad”—not since framework to tell us what constitutes ryone is capable of. But things tend to faked)—but the same does not go for love for) the art form, which are also we dropped metre and rhyme, in any a “true” poem and what doesn’t. get a bit more complicated when we’re the creative compositional arts. These hard to fake. If you want to write a case. It’s now all a matter of taste and And still telling which is which pressed to prove our talents—when days you can fake a painting. You can novel you need boatloads of patience. taste is a superbly dubious and fleet- will be well nigh impossible. we’re made to bring forth our yo-yos fake a song. You can fake a movie or a Just writing a hundred pages that ing concept.
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Exhibition in the Culture House providing an overview of Icelandic filmmaking. About 100 films can be viewed in full length.
The Culture House - Þjóðmenningarhúsið Opið daglega National Centre for Cultural Heritage kl. 11.00 – 17.00 thethe biggestbiggest musicmusic storestore iinn iicelandceland Hverfisgata15 , 101 Reykjavik Open daily between SKIFANSKSKIFIFANAN · LAUGAVEGURLAUAUGAGAVEVEGUGUR 2626 · KRINGLANKRIRINGNGLALAN Tel.: +354 545 1400 11 am and 5 pm. www.thjodmenning.is Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland
STUFFED WITH STUFF ISSUE 06 YOUR FREE COPY Skólavörðustígur 10, 101 Reykjavík
Page 4 “I can no longer remain silent on the very pressing subject that is the sell- ing off of Iceland's nature.” Björk (yes, that Björk) speaks out against the Magma Energy deal.
Page 6 I actually expected more praise for our renewal, for our change of politics and policies. I was pretty surprised when that didn't happen. I suppose it takes a long time to earn trust back, more than a few months or maybe even a few years. The Progressive Party’s Einar Skúlason is surprisingly frank. He also scores many points for being the only politician running that cared enough for Grapevine readers’ votes to answer our questions on time
Page 10 “The Best Party has no real policies to speak of. They want to put a polar bear in the Reykjavík ‘domestic ani- mal’ Zoo. They demand that Alþingi becomes free of drugs before 2020.” The municipal elections are getting Kanye’ed and Egill Helgason is on the case.
Page 12 “Hekla and Grímsvötn, on the other hand, are both showing signs of more or less being 'ready' to go. Chances are that neither of them is going to be particularly dangerous
(unless you're right on top of them!), eini t s r & but my money says that one of them u g a will be our next guilty party...” d James Ashworth tries to jinx us all by playing guess-the-eruption. Gee, thanks.
Page 18 The Grapevine called up Ross Beaty to ask him a couple of questions about the recent goings on and he rushed off the phone saying “I’m just going through a tunnel and I’m just about to jump onto an airplane.” There are no tunnels on the way to Iceland’s int’l airport. Magma Energy’s Ross Beaty is a lying liar. Do you trust him to manage Iceland’s Make your Mark on the Future resources responsibly? A university education is the ideal companion on the road to a successful future. Page 25 Most Bifröst University students have found employment immediately after graduating. We will be accepting applications until June 15th. “He went on to wonder whether Apply today at www.bifrost.is shutting down Iceland’s four strip clubs (yes, there are four of them) was as crucial as people are trying to make it out to be, and whether there weren’t other, more pertinent problems in Iceland at the moment.” Sophia van Treeck gets a view of the stripping ban from the inside.
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