Culinary dreams come true at James Beard House in New York By SARAH JAQUAY Little, Brown and reissued several times). I never learned pure Canadian maple syrup. to cook as a child. My mother didn’t want kids “help- Talented chefs ranging from the provinces of Alberta “Which door do we go in?” I asked a group of chefs ing” in the kitchen. And transferring between parochial (including Chef Matthias Fong of Calgary’s elegant chatting outside an unprepossessing brick building on and public schools, I missed the feminine-required home River Café--located on an island in the Bow River and W. 12th Street in Greenwich Village. “One six seven,” economics courses. Coming of age in the bra burning-, accessible only by foot) to New Foundland prepared replied one of the Canadian chefs. When my husband Equal Rights Amendment-era wasn’t exactly conducive courses with ingredients brought with them or shipped and I walked in, we knew we were in the right place. I’d to the art of making dinner from scratch. That said, I was for the occasion. heard from other gastronomic pilgrims the kitchen is drawn immediately to Beard’s clear, concise instruc- Given Beard’s proclivities, it was fitting the extrava- front and center in New York City’s famed James Beard tions that didn’t include murky verbs such as “blanch,” ganza started with Shediac River fiddlehead ferns and House (JBH.) We were glad some chefs were outside as “correct” or “sweat.” Following Beard’s fishy lead has wild ramps served with Beausoleil oysters and Aca- we squeezed through the narrow kitchen of the historic yielded numerous tasty salmon, Arctic char, sablefish dian sturgeon mousse—“Canadian caviar.” Chef Pierre townhouse, where the celebrated cookbook author, syn- and other seafood entrées over the years. Richard of Little Louis Oyster Bar in Moncton, New dicated columnist and television personality lived until So my elation at being invited to cover JBH’s “Sa- Brunswick, prepared this course. Every course exuded his death in 1985. vor the Flavors of Canada” dinner was understandable. provincial flavors and flair. James Beard has become a household name thanks Now all I had to do was figure out where to stay and Devouring dessert seemed to be gilding the lily and to the James Beard Foundation’s annual awards recog- how to get tickets to “Hamilton.” (Although we didn’t I intended to decline. Alas, when the servers delivered nizing talented chefs across the country. Fewer might stay there, the retro-chic Walker Hotel on W. 13th has a Langdon Hall (a luxury resort in Cambridge, Ontario) know what a devotee of “roots” cuisine he was. Beard relationship with JBH.) dark chocolate with rhubarb and Ontario peanuts, my (1903-1985) grew up in Portland, Oregon, and thrived “Hamilton” never happened, but the five-course din- willpower disintegrated. Langdon Hall’s Executive on Pacific Northwest regional dishes his mother pre- ner did and it was ethereal. First, we were ushered to Chef Jason Bangerter described how he designs his own pared with the family’s Chinese helper: fresh salmon, the outdoor garden where refreshing Canadian craft dark chocolate from four unique sources. shellfish, local game and foraged plants such as fiddle- beers were served with hors d’oeuvres. Canadians have Resistance is futile under some conditions; but I be- head ferns. He also developed a passion for Chinese long been known for their beer affection, but like their lieve the jocular James Beard — whose portrait smiled food and culture and lived in France during the 1920s. southern neighbor, they’ve moved way beyond Mol- down on us throughout the meal — would have said, Despite his expansive palate, Beard continually cham- son. Flying Monkeys Craft Brewery from Barrie, On- “Taste every province.” pioned the codifying, preserving and promotion of tario offered several interesting selections including its Author’s Note: Most dinners at the James Beard American cuisine. Smashbomb Atomic IPA—a bold, hoppy brew made House are open to the public, although advance reserva- My introduction to Beard cookbooks began shortly with robust Citra hops—and the remarkable Acadian tions are required. For more information on next year’s after I got married. I read about how to bake and grill Groove Maple Porter (the evening’s brewed highlight.) “Savor the Flavors of Canada” or the James Beard Photograph by Sarah Jaquay fish in the classic, “James Beard’s Fish Cookery” (1954 It bursts with flavors of chocolate, cocoa, toffee and House, see jamesbeard.org/events.

A8 Currents September 15, 2016 www.currentsnews.com