X-Ray Magazine :: Issue 36 :: May 2010

Haitian Recycled Metal Art of Mermaids & Marine Life Sub-Arctic Canada Churchill Equipment

GLOBAL EDITION Wetsuits May 2010 Number 36 Sharks Spiney Dogfish Florida Blue Heron Bridge Wrecks Jade Treasures baltic diving & wrecks Profile Mike Valentine Sweden1 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 cover photo by stein Johnsen DIRECTORY X-RAY MAG is published by AquaScope Media ApS Frederiksberg, Denmark www.xray-mag.com PUBLISHER SENIOR EDITOR Canons found on 17th century wreck, Baltic Sea, Sweden & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Michael Symes Peter Symes [email protected] [email protected] SECTION EDITORS contents PUBLISHER / EDITOR Andrey Bizyukin, PhD - Features & CREATIVE DIRECTOR Arnold Weisz - News, Features Gunild Symes Catherine Lim - News, Books [email protected] Simon Kong - News, Books Mathias Carvalho - Wrecks Associate editors Cindy Ross - GirlDiver & representatives: Scott Bennett - Photo & Travel Americas: Michael Arvedlund - Ecology Arnold Weisz [email protected] Correspondents Robert Aston - CA, USA Russia Editors & Reps: Enrico Cappeletti - Italy Andrey Bizyukin PhD, Moscow John Collins - Ireland [email protected] Marcelo Mammana - Argentina Nonoy Tan - The Philippines Svetlana Murashkina PhD, Moscow [email protected] Contributors this issue Scott Bennett South East Asia Editor & Rep: Erik Bjurström Catherine GS Lim, Singapore Mathias Carvalho [email protected] Jonas Dahm Wayne Fenior ASSISTANT editors Pernilla Flyg & representatives: Björn Hagberg Malaysia Editor & Rep: Stefan Hogeborn Simon Kong, Kuala Lumpur Fredrik Isakson [email protected] Stein Johnsen Millis Keegan Canada/PNW Editor & Rep: Justin Kerr Barb Roy, Vancouver Dylan Kibler [email protected] Catherine GS Lim Roz Lund GirlDiver Editor & PNW Rep: Jacque Marc Cindy Ross, Tacoma, USA Andy Murch [email protected] Ron Pierson jonas dahm Mark Powell ADVERTISING Rob Rondeau International sales rep: Barb Roy Arnold Weisz Adam St.Gelais 16 25 47 60 67 plus... [email protected] Jakob Selbing St o n e s o f Gr e e n Sw e d e n : Ba l t i c Se a Ca r l Do u g l a s o n Eq u i p m e n t : We t s u i t s Pr o f i l e : EDITORIAL 3 Robert Sterner a n d Ot h e r Tr e a s u r e s Diving & Wr e c k s Wr e c k s o f t h e Ba l t i c b y Wa y n e Fe n i o r Mi k e Va l e n t i n e NEWS 5 Asia-Pacific rep: Gunild Symes b y Ca r o l Te d e sc o e d i t e d b y Mi l l i s Ke e g a n b y Mi l l i s Ke e g a n & Pe t e r Sy m e s b y Ro z Lu n d Simon Kong (Malaysia) Peter Symes WRECK RAP 14 [email protected] Carol Tedesco TRAVEL NEWS 21 Lawson Wood French speaking territories: 74 90 95 Not yet subscribed to EQUIPMENT NEWS 23 Mathias Carvalho Ch u r c h i l l : Un i q u e Si t e : Fl o r i d a ’s Ha i t i a n Re c y c l e d WHALE TALES 58 [email protected] X-RAY MAG? Sign up now! Further information: contacts Ca n a d a ’s Su b -Ar c t i c Bl u e He r o n Br i d g e Me t a l Ar t o f t h e Se a BOOKS & MEDIA 59 page at www. xray-mag.com e d i t e d b y Ba r b Ro y b y Ad a m St.Ge l a i s e d i t e d b y Gu n i l d Sy m e s It’s FREE! QUICK! EASY! SHARK TALES 71 click here... PHOTO NEWS 86 columns... SUBSCRIPTION X-RAY MAG International Edition in English is FREE 14 23 71 82 86 To subscribe, go to: www.xray-mag.com Wr e c k Ra p : Ma r i n e Eq u i p m e n t : Sh a r k s : Te c h Ta l k : Le ss o n s UW Ph o t o : Digital r c h e o l o g y e a r h e c k p i n e y o g f i s h r o m e c h n i c a l iving a m e r a h o i c e COVER PHOTO: West Coast, Sweden, by Stein Johnsen A 101 G C S D F T D C C b y Ro b Ro n d e a u b y Ro b e r t St e r n e r b y An d y Mu r c h b y Ma r k Po w e l l b y La w s o n Wo o d (Continued on page 4)

2 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 Amsterdam Barcelona Cape Town Copenhagen Kuala Lumpur London Moscow Orlando Oslo Paris Ravenna Sao Paulo Singapore Vancouver Warsaw Editorial Cool diving in silver Our own backyard

The theme of this issue is some- just to mention a few. (Most of beat the still pristine beauty thing that we have wanted to our many travel reports are now and easy access to wilderness do for a very long time. available on our website.) above and below the surface that Scandinavia has to offer. While the team behind X-RAY While our headquarters are This is especially true around MAG is truly international, span- still based in Copenhagen, midsummer, when the white ning several continents from we think the time has come nights cast almost everlasting Catherine GS Lim in the East, to invite you inside our very sunsets and romantic evenings who faithfully and solidly takes own backyard and the waters on the beach, when one can care of our business out of upon whose beaches our dear grill seafood on a camp fire Singapore, to Barb Roy in Can- Scandinavian editors played as and go diving around the clock ada, the tech-diving grandma kids and where they took their without needing a lamp. of British Columbia, and all our first nervous breaths through a other wonderful editors in the regulator. While most Scandinavians are times zones in between, our habitual dive travellers yearn- founding editor-in-chief, Peter With this issue, which features ing to see as much of the world Symes, is a native Copenha- Sweden (Denmark and Nor- as possible, none of them have gener of British-Scandinavian way will be featured at an- a desire to leave home during heritage- other time), we want to put the these pleasant summer months. spotlight on some of the unique Once upon a time, “in another diving that the Scandinavian This issue sets out to explain century”, Peter and his Scan- peninsula has to offer. why. dinavian colleagues, Arnold Weisz and Millis Keegan, were Scandinavia has some awe- — Værsågod! (Bon appetit) cinema of dreams editors of the Norwegian, some underwater treasures, Swedish and Danish print dive which have not quite yet magazines, before pooling their received the interna- Fresh and delicious smør- expertise and experience and tional recognition they rebrød (open-face sand- putting it behind the publica- deserve—in particular, the wiches) in Denmark, or tion you are now reading. amazing historic wrecks smörgåsbord (buffet) in from centuries past, many Sweden, served with beer Over the years, X-RAY MAG has of which are still stunning and snaps, covered exotic locales —such and in pristine condition. is typical of as Tasmania, Lake Baikal and Scandinavian Patagonia—gone to the South- While some of the diving can fare for lunch or ern Ocean and Bikini Atoll, be demanding at times, and brunch. Photo joined scientific expeditions a sunny holiday cannot courtesy of and gorged on coral havens in be guaranteed, Elleinterior.se South East Asia—such as Raja few places Ampat— and explored the rug- on the ged beauty of Iceland, British planet Columbia, Russia and Norway, can www.seacam.com

3 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED X-RAY MAG is a founding member of the Underwater MK25 / Network Underwater Our Most Popular Styles Network.com S600

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X-RAY MAG is dis- Unsolicited manu- tributed seven times scripts, photographs per year on the and illustrations may Internet. © 2004- be emailed to: Sea Foam 2009 X-RAY MAG. gsymes@xray-mag. Octopus All rights reserved. com Keds Slip-ons Material in this publication may not be X-RAY MAG reproduced, modi- accepts no respon- fied or transferred sibility for unsolicited electronically in any materials sent to its form without written office, nor is it liable Sport your spots! permission from the for loss or damage Find the spots, dots, and squig- copyright owner. to such materials. gles of various sea creatures on Keds quality sneakers and Red Octopus Views and informa- X-RAY MAG slip-ons — terrific for the boat Keds Slip-ons tion expressed in observes a strict or the beach in the latest articles are those privacy policy. No fashion colors of the season. of the individual personal or private Catch them on t-shirts, too, author and are information will be in organic styles for the not necessarily shared with a third whole family. Plus, greet- representative of party without the ing cards, postage MORE BRILLIANT views held by X-RAY written permission of stamps, mugs, bags THAN EVER MAG or its affiliates. the owner. and brooches. Find gifts for your- Oceanatomy designs In polished chrome plated brass, for excellent corrosion resistance over time. self and your casual, comfortable & stylish SCUBAPRO’s ultimate regulator combination: our top-of-the line balanced sea-lovin’ apparel, gifts, cards and foot- piston MK25 ﬁ rst stage for ultra stable intermediate pressure and extremely buddy! wear for divers. High quality Keds punctual and consistent high air delivery, paired with our re-styled chrome Champion Sneakers Lace-ups and accented S600 air balanced second stage, for unmatched premium breathing Kids Lacy performance. Scorpionfish Slip-ons with rubber soles. Great for Keds Lace- travel, liveaboards in town, and on DEEP DOWN YOU WANT THE BEST. Regarding news from NAUI in X-RAY ups MAG: This issue of X-RAY MAG and the beach. Organic T’s and Kids sizes, scubapro.com others may include news and press too! Bulk discounts and international releases from NAUI in sections des- shipping. Lots of other marine life designs ignated by the NAUI logo. While the on shoes, t-shirts, Sea Mugs, tote bags and Juvenile page design is done by X-RAY MAG gifts. Sport your spots and stripes. Find them at: Emporerfish as an integrated part of the maga- Keds Slip-ons zine, these news stories are brought to you by NAUI at NAUI’s discretion. www.zazzle.com/oceanatomy

4 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED With wind and wave energy farms, it should be possible to create oceanapolooza large areas with biologically productive reef

News edited structures, which would by Peter Symes moreover be protected & Catherine G S Lim NEWS from bottom trawling No more oil spills!

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also good for marine life • New SWS weight pocket system to guarantee maximum reliability and easy use. Offshore wind power and wave energy founda- • Comfortable emergency Octopus of Zoology, Stockholm areas with biologically slot designed to minimize volume tions can increase local abundances of fish and while diving. University, in a recently pub- productive reef structures, • Collar with soft draining padding crabs. The reef-like constructions also favour for lished dissertation. which would moreover to ensure maximum comfort. example blue mussels and barnacles. What’s “Hard surfaces are be protected from bot- more, it is possible to increase or decrease the often hard currency in the tom trawling. By carefully abundance of various species by altering the ocean, and these founda- designing the foundations, tions can function as arti- it would be possible to structural design of the foundation. ficial reefs. Rock boulders favor and protect impor- are often placed around tant species, or, conversely, The seabed in the vicin- the structures to prevent to reduce the reef effects ity of the wind turbines erosion (scouring) around in order to minimize the had higher densities of these, and this strengthens impact on an area,” said S tein Johnsen fish compared to further the reef function,” says Dan Dan Wilhelmsson. away from the turbines Wilhelmsson. come to think of it, this and in control areas. not only were the foun- shouldn’t come as such a This was despite the dations giving a boost to surprise. There are many fact that the natural marine life, but interest- instances of sunken boats, bottoms were rich in ingly, we might be able to planes and other metal Seac. Discover a Wonderful World. boulders and algae. build in features to them in and concrete objects hav- Blue mussels domi- such a way as to enhance ing been thoroughly repur- nated on the wind conditions to favor those posed by the creatures turbines that appeared species that need more of the deep for their own to offer good growth con- protection. needs. We already use arti- ditions, wrote Dan “With wind and wave ficial reefs to rebuild popu- Wilhelmsson of energy farms, it should be lations of marine life. ■ the Department possible to create large

5 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Seac_TECNICO_2010_ENG_Resortsws_60x260.indd 1 2-03-2010 11:09:18 news Welcome to Marine scientists discover ocean Papua “superhighway” for tiny life forms New Guinea Working in a rare, “natural seafloor post-eruption site. a hydrothermal eruption, it is replaced by a the bottom of the Pacific Ocean in 1977 laboratory” of hydrothermal vents one such “pioneer species,” Ctenopelta pool of tiny creatures from nearby vents. revolutionized ideas about where and how porifera, appears to have traveled more in this case, however, the larvae that life could exist. The seafloor vents gushing that had just been rocked by a than 300 kilometers to settle at the site on re-settled the post-eruption vent area warm, mineral-rich fluids and teeming with volcanic eruption, scientists from the underwater mountain range known as are noticeably different from the spe- life raised new questions that researchers the Woods Hole Oceanographic the East Pacific Rise. cies that were destroyed, according to have been studying ever since, including: Institution and other institu- “Ctenopelta had never been observed David Garrison, director of the National How can so much life thrive at the sunless before at the study site, and the nearest Science Foundation’s (NSF’s) Biological seafloor? What is the nature of organisms tions have discovered what they known population is 350km to the north,” Oceanography Program. In addition, the at hydrothermal vents? How do animals believe is an undersea superhigh- said Lauren Mullineaux, a senior scientist in larvae appear to have traveled great dis- migrate to other vent sites? way. WHOI’s biology department. tances to reach their destination. the discovery—in collaboration with “That raises the question of how they can Getting from A to B Text and images by the scientists at the Lamont-Doherty Earth possibly disperse so far,” said Mullineaux. It was this last question that motivated National Science Foundation Observatory (LDEO) and the NOAA Pacific She added that the findings have implica- Mullineaux and her team as they began Marine Environmental Laboratory (PMEL)— tions for the wider distribution of undersea their study of a vent area on the East Pacific This superhighway carries tiny life forms clashes with the widely accepted assump- life. Rise “to gather observations of currents, lar- unprecedented distances to inhabit the tion that when local adult life is wiped out in the discovery of hydrothermal vents on vae and juvenile colonists in order to understand what physical processes might facili- tate dispersal”, Mullineaux said. one of the group’s primary challenges was to determine where the organisms around the vent came from. In for a surprise As the scientists set out on their mission in 2006, “We got a surprise,” said Mullineaux. “A seafloor eruption was detected at our Papua New Guinea study site, resulting in changes in topography and enormous disturbance to eco- is located in the logical communities. The eruption was, in coral triangle of essence, a natural experiment.” marine biodiversity by the time the researchers arrived at the site, they found a scene quite unlike that with the highest usually observed at a hydrothermal vent. diversitydi of tropical normally, such fissures are teeming with ﬁsh and coral in life, supported by the hot chemicals that spew from the vents and provide food the world. through microbial chemosynthesis, a deepsea version of photosynthesis. but at this spot on the East Pacific Rise, near nine degrees north, there was no ► www.pngdive.com

Illustration of life around a hydrothermal vent 6 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED What the scientists found went against How were these the accepted assumption that most of weak-swimming news the organisms needed to re-populate an larvae propelled area come from relatively nearby. But such vast distances instead, the new larval inhabitants were to the decimated x-ray from a considerable distance away. vent area? mag readers Save US$400* food through microbial chem- But at this spot on the East eruption had McGillicuddy and Thurnherr. osynthesis, a deep-sea version of Pacific Rise, near nine degrees wiped it out. Theoretically, however, even photosynthesis. north, there was no ► life. The “Although the these ridge-crest jets might not quite be able to transport the larvae from 350 kilometers within the time frame of their 30-day lifespan, she said. “Either the larvae are using some other trans- vents survived, But instead, the new larval inhab- port or they are living longer than Experience some of the animals did itants were from a considerable we thought,” said Mullineaux. the world’s best dive sites not, and virtually distance away. She speculates that large with its amazing marine all the detect- “These results show clearly eddies, or whirlpools of water, diversity, the most beautiful able invertebrate that the species arriving after several hundred kilometers in reefs and breathtaking communities the eruption are different than diameter, may be propelling the big-fish action were paved those before,” says Mullineaux, migrating larvae even faster— over,” said “with two new pioneer spe- delivering them to their new home - enjoy world-class diving Mullineaux. “For cies, Ctenopelta porifera and while they are still alive. Or per- on a liveaboard in Palau! us, this was an Lepetodrilus tevnianus, promi- haps the larvae are able to some- *valid for all trips in October exciting event. In nent.” how reduce their metabolism and and November 2010 essence, it was The most important finding is extend their life. refer to “x-ray mag” a natural clear- that “the processes of the larval The findings present an array for your discount ance experiment stage—as opposed to those of of fascinating scientific scenarios that allowed us adult organisms—seem to control that warrant further exploration, to explore how colonization,” Mullineaux said. according to Mullineaux. the elimination “We found that a pioneer colo- They also may open up new of local source nization event by one species, ways of looking at the impacts of For bookings and inquiries: populations Ctenopelta porifera, radically human activities on the seafloor, +63 2 892 34 77 affected the sup- changed the community struc- such as seafloor mineral mining, ply of larvae and ture.” which could alter a vent site in a [email protected] re-colonization,” similar way to an eruption. she said. Jet set Such activity could conceivably For more information: What the sci- But a question remained: How foster a greater diversity of spe- www.expeditionfleet.com entists found were these weak-swimming larvae cies at a vent that has just been went against propelled such vast distances to mined, or it could cause extinc- NOAA the accepted the decimated vent area? tion, Mullineaux said. But such sce- assumption Seemingly the only way the narios are still highly speculative, that most of emigrating larvae could get to she emphasized. ■ the organisms their new home from so far away, Mullineaux’s WHOI co-authors on the paper are Diane Adams, currently at the National Institutes of Health, needed to re- Mullineaux said, would be to ride Susan Mills and Stace Beaulieu. populate an ocean-bottom “jets” traveling up area come from to ten centimeters a second, such The project also received funding from WHOI’s Deep relatively nearby. as those identified in the work of Ocean Exploration Institute.

THIS PAGE: Types of critters found living near hydrothermal vents 7 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED “Without this supply of Antarctic water, the deep- news est levels of the ocean would have little oxygen

The ured at depths three kilometres ocean below the sea surface. influences “Mapping the deep current climate systems is an important step in by stor- understanding the global net- ing and work of ocean currents that transporting influence climate, now and heat and car- in the future. Our results show bon dioxide—the that the deep currents near the more the ocean Kerguelen Plateau make a large stores, the slower the contribution to this global ocean rate of climate change. circulation,” Rintoul said. The deep current along the Kerguelen Plateau is part of a Antarctic waters carried north- global system of ocean currents ward by the deep currents even- called the overturning circulation, tually fill the deep layers of east- which determines how much heat ern Indian and Pacific Oceans. ■ and carbon the ocean can soak up.”

While earlier expeditions had detected evidence Massive Southern Ocean of the current system, they were not able to determine how much water the current discovered current carried. The joint Japanese-Australian experiment deployed current- A deep ocean Researchers have described the meter moorings anchored current with current—more than three kilome- to the sea floor at depths of tres below the Ocean’s surface up to 4,500m. Each mooring a volume —as an important pathway in a reached from the sea floor equivalent to 40 global network of ocean currents to a depth of 1,000m and Amazon Rivers that influence climate patterns. measured current speed, has been discov- temperature and salinity for “The current carries dense, oxy- a two-year period. ered by Japanese gen-rich water that sinks near and Australian Antarctica to the deep ocean The current was found to scientists near the basins further north,” said co- carry more than 12 million Kerguelen plateau, author Dr Steve Rintoul from the cubic metres per second. Antarctic Climate and Ecosystems in the Indian Ocean CRC and CSIRO’s Wealth from “It was a real surprise to see sector of the Southern Oceans Flagship. how strong the flow was Ocean, 4,200 kilome- at this location. With two- “Without this supply of Antarctic year average speeds of tres southwest of Perth. water, the deepest levels of the more than 20cm per sec- ocean would have little oxygen. ond, these are the strongest Text and images by CSIRO mean currents ever meas-

8 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED no aa Approximate oil locations from May 2, 2010 to May 6, 2010 including forecast for May 7 (based on trajectories and overflight information) news Produced May 6, 2010

forecast for May 7

NOAA responds 1 incidentLocation may7 may6 may5 to Gulf oil spill may4 may3 0 15 30 60 Miles The National Oceanic and of around 5000 may2 Atmospheric Administration barrels (210,000 (NOAA) is the leading scientific gallons) per day. NASA, which has agreed to use resource for oil spills in the United Dispersants are being tested at their ER-2 aircraft, equipped with States. As such, it has, from the the sea floor, and if successful, a highly specialized scanner (the start, been on the scene of the might reduce oil at the surface. Airborne Visible/Infrared Imaging recent Deepwater Horizon spill in A fully rigged collection dome, a Spectrometer (AVIRIS) system), at the Gulf of Mexico. NOAA is provid- large cofferdam-like structure, has NOAA’s request. With NASA’s finding coordinated scientific weather been dispatched. ings, spill trajectories can be fore- and biological response services to Damage to the environment casted and mass balance calcula- government and local organiza- is being conducted by NOAA’s tions can be conducted. NASA’s tions. Damage Assessment Remediation satellite instruments have been in the response, hundreds of and Restoration Program (DARRP), employed to detect the extent of thousands of feet of boom have employing the Natural Resource the entire oil spill and to see the been set out to contain the spill, Damage Assessment (NRDA). details of the extent of selected with more ready to be deployed. Based on past experience, NOAA areas of the spill. Remotely Operated Vehicles is worried about the impact of seafood samples are being col- (ROVs) were used at the source to the oil spill on fish, shellfish, marine lected by NOAA Fisheries and cut off a section at the end of the mammals, turtles, birds and other transfered to the National Seafood riser pipe, which once led from the sensitive resources. Impact on their Inspection Lab. In addition, NOAA well to the rig, and then, capped habitats, including wetlands, mud- is conducting marine mammal sur- it with a valve. This stopped one of flats, beaches, bottom sediments vey and ocean imaging missions the three leaks, but oil continues to and the water column is also a by air in order to gain valuable enter the Gulf of Mexico at a rate concern. They are also evaluat- information about the oil thickness ing lost uses of and density on the sea surface. these resources, Aerial photographic flights are for instance, also being conducted over marsh fishery and areas. In addition, seafloor and beach closures. water column data is being col- high resolu- lected from areas near the oil spill tion images of source during a mission sponsored the threatened by the NOAA Office of Ocean Gulf shore- Exploration and Research. line are being Further updates can be read at: provided by www.noaa.gov ■

In response to the Deepwater Horizon oil spill following the explosion on 20 April 2010, subsea operations and methods are being used to manage the flow of oil using subsea dispersants before they reach the surface. Graphic provided by BP

9 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED the dive news network presents the 3rd AnnUAl news DIVE & TRAVEl EXPO May 21 -23, 2010 tacoma, washington, U.S.A. T echno l o gy • 250 Exciting • Try Scuba FREE Exhibitor Booths Douglas I nstit u te o f • Try Scuba FREE Rasher, • 40 FREE Seminars Georgia • Great Deals Institute of Technology • See The Latest On Travel checks for Diving Products effects of • Meet Diving seaweed • Win Thousands Celebrities on a coral Of Dollars In Prizes Hay /Do ugla s R a she r , rg i a Geo culturing rack in Fiji M ark DISCOVER AN OCEAN OF POSSIBILITIES Chemicals from Seaweeds Damage Coral on Contact www.diveandtravelexpo.com Field studies have shown that several common species of seaweeds in both the Pacific and Caribbean can kill corals upon contact.

While competition between tor of NSF’s Biological Oceano- from two different species when seaweeds and corals is just one graphy Program, which funded the they were placed next to differ- of many factors affecting the research. But in many areas, says ent types of seaweed common decline of coral reefs Garrison, overfishing has reduced around Fijian reefs in the Pacific, worldwide, this chemi- the populations of these plant- and Panamanian reefs in the cal threat may pro- consumers, allowing seaweeds to Caribbean. vide a serious set- overpopulate coral reefs. they planted the seaweeds next back to efforts aimed “We don’t know how significant to coral being transplanted—and at repopulating dam- this is compared to other problems also placed plastic plants next to aged reefs. affecting coral, but we know this some of the corals to simulate the seaweeds are nor- is a growing problem. For reefs effects of shading and mechanical mally kept in check that have been battered by damage. Other corals in the racks by herbivorous human use or overfishing, had neither seaweeds nor plastic fish, accord- the presence of sea- plants near them. The researchers ing to David weeds may prevent revisited the corals two days, ten Garrison, natural recovery from days and 20 days later. In as little direc- happening at all.” as two days, corals in contact with Using racks of coral some seaweed species bleached being transplanted as and died in areas of direct con- part of repopulation efforts, tact. Mark Hay, a marine ecolo- “Between 40 and 70 percent of gist at Georgia Tech, and gradu- the seaweeds we studied killed ate student, Douglas Rasher, corals,” said Hay. ■ compared the fate of corals Source: The National Science Foundation

10 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED news ‘Black Box’ Plankton Found to Have Huge Role in Ocean Carbon Fixation

Eukaryotic phytoplankton actually account for almost half the ocean’s carbon fixation by phytoplankton.

Carbon fixation by phytoplankton in the open ocean plays a key role in the global carbon cycle but is An eukaryote not fully understood. is an organism whose cells contain Until now researchers believed that complex structures Live cells of the cyanobacteria, overwhelmingly inside the membranes. dinoflagellate accounted for phytoplankton’s role in Ceratium pen- carbon fixation in the open ocean. The defining membrane- tagonum a com- bound structure that sets mon eucaryotic The cyanobacteria or Blue-green algae eukaryotic cells apart from algae which belong to the picophytoplankton—the tini- prokaryotic cells is the nucleus, est phytoplankton—grow in vast numbers in the sunlit surface or nuclear envelope, within which waters of the oceans. By way of photosynthesis, they ‘fix’ car- the genetic material is carried. bon by converting carbon dioxide into sugars and other organic compounds. Until now, they have been thought to dominate Most eukaryotic cells also con- carbon fixation in the open ocean. tain other membrane-bound organelles such as mitochondria, Like all bacteria, cyanobacteria are prokaryotes, distinguished from chloroplasts and the Golgi eukaryotes by the absence of a cell nucleus. However, although much apparatus. less abundant than cyanobacteria, the photic zone also has a high biomass of small eukaryotic phytoplankton capable of carbon fixation. Almost all species of large organisms are eukaryotes, But what scientists at the University of Warwick and the National including animals, plants Oceanography Centre in Southampton discovered is that eukaryotic phyto- and fungi, although most plankton actually fix significant amounts of carbon, contributing up to 44 per- species of eukaryotic cent of the total, despite being considerably less abundant than cyanobacteria. protists are microor- ganisms. ■ “This is most likely because eukaryotic phytoplankton cells, although small, are big- ger than cyanobacteria, allowing them to assimilate more fixed carbon,” said Professor Mikhail Zubkov of the National Oceanography Centre. ■ Three dive computers - Unlimited possibilities

www.OceanicWorldwide.com

11 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED news Ocean Bacteria Can Harvest Energy from Sunlight for Survival

Bacteria in the ocean can totrophism, harvest light energy from obtaining energy from sunlight to promote sur- photosynthesis vival thanks to a unique – ed.) in oce- light-capturing pigment. anic carbon cycling and Proteorhodopsin is a photoactive energy flux. protein found in marine bacte- However, rioplanktons, which can interact functional

with light and convert it into PN A S M ay 15, 2007 vo l . 104 no. 20 8212-8217 evidence for energy for growth and survival. It specific roles consists of a single, membrane- for proteor- ODEX 2011 5TH ANNUAL embedded protein that is related hodopsins in UNDERWATER FESTIVAL™ to the pigment in the retina that native marine enables human vision in less Proteorhodopsin sits embedded in the cell membrane. bacteria and RNA Showgrounds intense light. It was only discov- the marine Brisbane Australia Australasia-wide ered in 2000. teorhodopsins, implying a poten- environment September 30th – October 2nd September 9th to 18th As much as half of the surface tially significant role of non–chlo- remains surprisingly scarce. ■ ocean bacteria have such pro- rophyll-based phototrophy (pho- Brisbane Australia • International Dive and Travel September 30th - October 2nd Resort Pavilion

NASA goes underwater with NEEMO-14 • Marine Science and Conservation Hub • Australasia-wide underwater photo and video shootout NASA will send two astronauts, a veteran under- • Paddle and Ocean Sports Zone sea engineer and an experienced scientist into • Marine Visions V - open medium the ocean depths off Florida’s east coast this • Water sport events around Brisbane art competition month to test exploration concepts and learn more about working in an unforgiv- • Silent auction, prizes and giveaways • Festival Fringe events all over Australasia ing, treacherous environment. The mission • Over $100,000 in prizes will be held inside the Aquarius Underwater • Seminars, workshops and including $10,000 cash Laboratory near Key Largo, Florida. presentations • Showcase of top 100 winning shots Using near-scale mockup vehicles, EVA teams will conduct off- • Underwater Festival Winners and videos at ODEX 2011 loading, retrieval and survival missions, including the transfer of an Showcase incapacitated astronaut from the ocean floor to the deck of the • Awards Ceremony and Underwater lander. • Underwater Festival Awards Party Festival Party at ODEX 2011

While inside the Aquarius laboratory, the crew will perform life sci- ences experiments focused on human behavior, performance and Submerge your senses Be part of it, wherever you are! physiology. The mission also includes a study of autonomous crew work. This will include periods of time when there is limited commu- nication between the crew and the mission control center, much like what could happen during missions to the moon or Mars. ■ oceaniadiveexpo.com underwaterfestival.org

SHOW ORGANISERS 12 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED

dive in. explore. discover HMCS Annapolis acquired in 2008 by the Artificial Reef Society of British Annapolis Update Columbia, Canada

ery, sorted it and staged it the existing selection. for future extraction.” “The Annapolis will provide a great wreck to dive and Funding to train on, close to large Part of the project funding populations like Vancouver comes from the sale of scrap and Seattle,” added Jan. “In metal and items sold off the turn, increasing the interest ship. Project support also in diving because it will be includes donated time and safely accessible to divers incurred expenses from local from beginner level through businesses like Sea Dragon advanced. Located within Charters, a dive charter a marine park will not only boat in Howe Sound who enhance marine growth, it currently transports volun- will prevent fisherman from teers from Horseshoe Bay to tying up and fishing on the Gambier Island where the wreck where divers are.” ship is being prepared. once inspections are “We take the ARSBC vol- completed and the ves- unteers to the Annapolis sel passes, large holes will on a regular basis for no be cut throughout the hull charge,” explained Jan and decks for diver safety. Breckman. “This is costly for Quite often the ships pro- us in time and fuel, but we vide a controlled setting for see it as an investment in advance levels of diving, Since acquisition, the ship Annapolis in September or President, Doug Pemberton the Pacific Northwest dive like technical training, which May 2010 – Anxious has undergone major October of this year, the elaborated: “This is mainly a industry. The spirit, deals in overhead divers in Washington changes as hundreds of need for volunteers is still hydrocarbon inspection of excitement, environments. local divers and dive-relat- strong, as Deirdre continued: the fuel tanks and machin- and camara- Nearly 1,000 vol- “Even if State and British ed businesses have rallied “There are only around 1,000 ery spaces. There can be derie already visibility is Columbia, Canada, together to prepare the ship hours of dismantling, sorting, no traces of hydrocarbons created by unteers are approach- limited and await their next wreck for sinking. recycling and cleaning to in these areas, if we hope this project ing 7,000 man hours bad for div- dive, the 371-foot “Nearly 1,000 volunteers go before final inspection. to pass this inspection, and is amaz- aboard the ship... ing, it is great are approaching 7,000 man We must ensure all standards passing this inspection is a ing, and the for training!” long HMCS Annapolis. hours aboard the ship,” tells are met to make the ship crucial step towards getting ship has not Several volunteers have commented The retired Canadian Deirdre Forbes McCracken, suitable for its final resting this project under water. even been logged between 160- Ron Akeson, dive club, if your club or Director of Public Relations place on the ocean floor. “A couple of weeks sunk yet! Technical Dive store is located in the Pacific military vessel was 300 hours each! acquired in 2008 by for the ARSBC and co-owner Therefore, we continue to ago, we spent a week- The project Instructor from Northwest, if you would like of Ocean Quest Dive Centre put out a call for volunteers end dismantling and cut- will provide a Adventures to organize a group of volun- the Artificial Reef in Burnaby. “Several volun- for every weekend until sink- ting several tons of piping boost to every aspect of the Down Under in Bellingham, teers for a day or weekend. Society of British teers have logged between ing, along with our mid-week from the engine room and entire industry, as well as fur- Washington. “Having a Individuals are also welcome Columbia (ARSBC) 160-300 hours each! The Wednesday Mechanics boiler room. It was piled up ther the ecological develop- wreck in Howe Sound will to volunteer. determination and dedica- Team, to disassemble heavy- several feet deep. The fol- ment of this region.” allow us to do wreck train- “We welcome anyone from Crown Assets tion can be seen as they duty machinery.” lowing weekend, a crew Jan and her husband, ing without traveling a day who would like to come out Distribution with the continue to work through from the Emerald Sea Dive Kevin, have offered dive to get to the site. Once the and help—divers and non- intent to sink in Howe lunch just to get that one last Inspections Club in Seattle came up, charters in Howe Sound for ship is down, I also plan on divers. We can find a job for Sound as a new dive stubborn bolt apart. After all The ship will soon undergo a and together with a crew over ten years, and although organizing several fun group any skill,” said McCracken. this work, we are now begin- series of rigorous government of volunteers recruited by there are already 25 good dives per year, too.” For more information, see site. ning to see the light at the inspections, with the next Vancouver area dive shops, dive sites in the area, they Members of the ARSBC www.artficialreef.bc.ca or Text and photo end of the tunnel.” one through Environment we removed all the accu- feel the addition of a good may be available to give a email: dmccracken@artifi- by Barb Roy With hopes of sinking the Canada. ARSBC Vice mulated pipe and machin- wreck dive will only add to presentation to your local cialreef.bc.ca ■

13 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED wreck A Ming Dynasty dragon: “Traditional Style” blue- rap and-white porcelain from around 1640 A.D. Wikipedia photo

Marine Archaeology 101 So, you fancy yourself the next Dirk Pitt or to live on Canada’s west coast, there’s as the Great Lakes Historical Society. Indiana Jones on scuba. Seriously, where the Underwater Archaeological Society It offers nautical archaeology week- do you start, if you’re interested in learn- of British Columbia. Its members are end workshops at its Peachman Lake ing about marine archaeology? involved in documenting shipwrecks in Erie Shipwreck Research Center. Basic, the traditional route is to enroll at a that province. It’s one of the oldest and Advanced and Survey level courses are university, typically taking a Bachelor of best-known groups of “avocationalists” taught there. Arts degree. But, this will take you three in the world, and it works closely with or more years to complete and cost you museums and other marine archaeol- Parks & Preserves tens of thousands of dollars. ogy groups. It also offers training courses Another great way to experience ship- ok, maybe you’re not that serious. Not from the UK-based Nautical Archaeology wrecks first-hand is to visit an underwater to worry, there’s plenty of other ways to Society. preserve or marine park. The Dominican learn about marine archaeology without in the United States, similar training is Republic’s 1724 Guadalupe Underwater having to take out a whopping student available through organizations such Archaeological Preserve is the world’s loan or tie up first underwater years of your shipwreck museum. life. Created in 2002, it’s located off Dominicus Societies & Beach at Bayahibe. Workshops It includes artifacts A good first from the Guadalupe step is to join a and the Tolosa—two marine archae- Spanish Colonial ships ology society. that were wrecked This is a great in a storm in 1724. way to share in Knick-named “the the thrill of dis- Quicksilver Galleons” covery, meet because of the large other like-mind- quantity of mercury ed folks, and each was carrying, to the quarter acre underwater museum, George, an artificial reef created in 1999 develop the both ships were which lies 100 meters from the beach in when the former Norwegian cargo ship skills needed discovered on the 15 feet of water. Staff and students from was deliberately sunk. It’s a great wreck for research- island’s east coast in Indiana University helped create the dive for both the novice and experi- ing, exploring the 1970’s. unique attraction to better educate the enced diver alike. and conserving one of the ship’s public about the archaeology of ship- the 1733 Spanish Galleon Trail is found shipwrecks. anchors and several wrecks and the importance of maritime in the Florida Keys National Marine if you’re for- cannons from each heritage to Dominican history. Sanctuary. The wreck of the San Pedro tunate enough wreck were relocated nearby, in deeper water, rests the Saint is among one of the most picturesque

Diver with Parrel 14 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED UASBC director Al Morgan wreck with a cannon from the 19th rap Century shipwreck, Swordfish. Photo by Jacques Marc

Kainic. Divers are not allowed to remove any artifacts from the wrecks as souvenirs, he says. Shipwrecks & Social Networking Another great way to learn about marine archaeology is to join the social networking website, Facebook. There, you’ll find plenty of groups dedicated to marine archaeology and wreck diving. A few are: Archaeological Divers Association, Sea Research Society and Wrecks Worldwide.

— Rob Rondeau Marine Archaeologist www.procomsurvey.com ■

Related links Underwater Archaeological Society of British Columbia www.uasbc.com Nautical Archaeology Society www.nauticalarchaeologysoci- ety.org Great Lakes Historical Society www.inlandseas.org/plesrc/ index.html 1724 Guadalupe Underwater Archaeological Preserve, Dominican Republic of the 1733 wreck sites, due to her Travel & Tours www.indiana.edu/~r317doc/dr/ location in a white sand pocket Diving into History is a new livea- index.html surrounded by turtle grass and the board for shipwreck enthusiasts Florida Keys National Marine prolific marine life that inhabits her vacationing in the Belitung region Sanctuary grave. of Indonesia’s Gaspar Strait. Divers floridakeys.noaa.gov/sanctu- since the 1500’s, more than 800 can experience a handful of 19th ary_resources/shipwreck_trail/ documented shipwrecks have century shipwrecks. There’s even welcome.html occurred around the reefs and a yet unidentified Chinese Junk. Diving Into History, Indonesia sand flats of the Florida Keys. These The wreck is a spectacular sight—a www.oceantreasures.org/ “windows to the past” give the three-meter high pile of blue and categorie,cruise-amp-wreck- Keys a rich and exciting maritime white china. diving,3032874.html history. “It’s strictly look but don’t take,” Facebook according to tour operator Pascal www.facebook.com

15 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED A Costa Rican GREEN TREASURES wreck jade celt exhibits rap characteristics A high carat gold ring similar to artifact discovered by Blue #50049 (next Water’s Captain Dan page). Photo Porter was set, not K5177f © Justin Kerr with an emerald as it appeared at first glance in the murky waters of the Florida Straits, but with a bead of Stones of Green & Other Treasures green glass. Photo by Dan Porter © Blue Water Productions. Text by Carol Tedesco The Spanish chronicler Bernal Díaz Then I saw the things brought to the haunt. With the weather too rough to specific type of del Castillo, a soldier in the army work at sea and in no hurry to be any- object, such as of Hernán Cortés, documented King from the new Land of Gold... where else, conversation soon turned to paper money, numerous examples of the Spanish all manner of wondrous weapons... our favorite subject, the 1622 Fleet Santa is accepted in trading green glass beads like this all sorts of marvelous objects for the Margarita shipwreck and the treasures trade for a vari- one with “the Indians” for gold, she carried. (If the reader is not familiar ety of objects explaining that the Indians thought human use which are much more with the background history of the Santa and services. they were chalchihuites, a green beautiful to behold than things spo- Margarita, see X-RAY MAG issue #34.) I And then of stone that they valued more highly shared the Dürer quote with Webb and course there are than gold. Photo by Ron Pierson © ken of in fairy tales... In all the days Porter. the magical, Blue Water Productions. of my life I have seen nothing which “But, there are numerous qualities that mystical quali- can contribute to the perception of an ties that humans so filled my heart with joy as these object as precious,” observed Webb. perceive or things. For I saw amongst them “Dürer was an artist, viewing the treasures invest in objects through the eyes of an artist. His rever- to give them wondrous artful treasures, and I ence for creative genius directed into power. marveled over the subtle genius artistic expression is what made these of those men in strange countries. objects so precious to him. An accoun- The Power tant no doubt would have composed an of Gold Shortly Indeed, I cannot tell enough of the ode of a different stripe.” The Spanish after the death things which I saw there before “It is an amazing thing—treasure and conquista- of Moctezuma, with the forms it comes in,” added Porter. “Not dors believed the Spanish force under me. only gold and silver, but works of jade, passionately siege and preparing to retreat marble, Italian quartz and even green in the power from Mexico, Cortés loaded eight —Albrecht Dürer cut glass have been recovered on the of silver and horses and more than 80 “friendly Margarita trail in the last few years—all of gold, and this Tlaxcalans” with Mexican gold, The German artist Albrecht Dürer penned which, at some time or other, were trea- belief propelled Spanish soldier and chronicler, Bernal jewels and silver, as much as each this poetic ode to “those men in strange sured by someone.” them to sail across vast seas in its pursuit. Díaz del Castillo, in his True History of could carry. The rest, Díaz wrote, countries” in the year 1520, upon viewing so, what overall qualities can contribute Christopher Columbus expressed this con- the Conquest of New Spain described “over seven hundred thousand the first of the Mexican treasures sent by to the perception of an object as pre- viction in a letter to his monarchs, writing, an incident in which “the great prince pesos in gold” was piled up in Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés to cious? Rarity would naturally rank high on “Gold is most excellent, of gold there is Moctezuma”, upon learning that the heaps for any soldiers willing to King Charles V of Spain. the list. An object is considered rare when formed treasure, and with it whoever has Spanish were approaching his provinces, carry it. Díaz wrote that while many in the year 2010, on a day of high winds it is uncommon or unusual; beauty—a it may do as he wishes in this world and sent orders to his governors that they of the soldiers loaded themselves and tempestuous seas, I joined W. Keith quality that is more subjective and less come to bring souls into Paradise.” should barter gold for the Spaniard’s with gold, he chose to take only Webb, CEO of Blue Water Ventures of measurable than rarity; complexity— the Spanish quickly learned that the beads. “…especially the green beads,” four chalchihuites, the value of Key West, and Captain Dan Porter, Blue meaning that creation of the object peoples of Mesoamerica—Olmec, Maya, Díaz wrote, “which are something like which later, “served me well in heal- Water’s Operations Manager, at the is labor intensive or difficult to bring to Aztec, Toltec, and others—treasured their chalchihuites, which they value as ing my wounds and getting me Hogfish Bar and Grill, a favorite Key West fruition; agreed-upon value—whereby a green stones above silver and gold. The highly as emeralds.” Díaz described some food.” ■

16 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED wreck rap Green Stones

A tiny square of embossed gold, discovered by Blue Water Ventures crewmember Jesse Van Houten. Two nearly identical squares have been recovered from the site previous to the February 2009 discovery of this one. Photo by Dan Porter © Blue Water Productions

it blows my mind, the difference only a decade has made in the development of the internet as an The archive of Justin Kerr photographs (research.mayavase.com/kerrportfolio.html) indispensable research and informa- revealed this set of strikingly similar Aztec clay stamps. Photo K7846 © Justin Kerr tion sharing resource. Of course, as with any source, a researcher must be discerning—incorrect and mis- chalchihuites as being “worth a vast dozen compara- leading information is just as read- quantity of gold,” and episodes of the ble artifacts, none ily available online as that which is Spanish exchanging green glass bead of which were Kavanaugh and Kibler were able to accurate. But, unlike ten years ago, “chalchihuites” for gold are repeated shipwreck recovered, each described provide images of three other Santa now a researcher can quickly identify continuously throughout Díaz’ chronicle as jade—though it soon became clear Margarita artifacts carved from green and locate the leading authorities on and in various other records of the con- that the term jade was being used stone. One of these, though not intact, almost any given subject—or at least quest. loosely to describe a variety of hard is similar in shape to #50049, being rect- their publications. the Santa Margarita was a Spanish green stones. angular, with squared edges, carved i soon learned that the name chalchi- galleon transporting treasures deemed Queries to online professional archae- to a blunt end. However, because of huite, or chalchihuitl, actually encom- precious by the Spanish, so it is not sur- ological discussion lists about the 5.5 its condition, it is impossible to know if passed a variety of hard green stones, prising that the wealth of her cargo inch long, one inch wide, rectangular there was once any decorative carving and is a word related to the name of was made up of silver, gold and pearls. carved stone artifact were unproduc- or drilled holes. Of the other two, one is the Aztec goddess of lakes, rivers and However, in the past couple of years, as tive, though this was not totally unex- intact and the other sheared into two seas—Chalchiuhtlicue—meaning “She Captain Porter pointed out, Blue Water pected. A decade ago, even if they pieces. Both of these are long and slen- of the Jade Skirt”. Ventures has recovered several artifacts might have cared to do so, the vast der, with drilled holes, and thin, tapered the Mesoamerican’s were masters of that point to Mesoamerican craftsman- majority of professional archaeologists ends shaped more like blades than arti- lapidary work and carved astonishingly ship, values and lore. These discoveries were loath to work with or advise any fact #50049. elaborate amulets, charms, pendants include a high carat gold ring, set with private sector historic shipwreck explo- next, digging in with my trusty and tools from many types of minerals, a green glass bead of the type that the ration company, regardless of its pro- MacBook Pro and a stack of books but hard green stones such as jadeite, Spanish would trade for gold; an exqui- fessional caliber. Those who did risked written by 16th century explorers, I se- nephrite, turquoise, aventurine, and ser- site, tiny square of patterned gold; and being blackballed by their peers. lected the word chalchihuite from the pentine were of the greatest value, and an artifact tentatively documented as now seemed like the perfect time to chronicle of Bernal Díaz and hit “Search considered sacred. a paperweight—possibly carved from renew my inquiries into artifact #50049 Google”. aventurine. and to see what information might be available to further our understanding of Masters of lapidary work the recent Santa Margarita discoveries. I reminded Webb and Porter that dur- First, I contacted Sandy Kavanaugh, ing the summer of 2000, on one of the curator for Blue Water’s joint venture Santa Margarita’s scatter trails, visiting partner, Mel Fishers Treasures, and U.K. diver Phill Short had discovered Dylan Kibler, registrar for the Mel Fisher an artifact of obvious pre-Columbian Maritime Museum, to find out if any cultural origin (#50049). Searching the other green stone artifacts might have internet for similar specimens in that been found on the Santa Margarita Blue Water Ventures CEO W. Keith Webb examines year returned images of fewer than a prior to 2000. recovered artifacts of bone, pottery, and wood The greenstone “celt” pendant, artifact #50049, discovered by visiting U.K. diver Phill Short. aboard the Blue Water Rose. Photo by Carol Tedesco Photo © Mel Fishers Treasures, Inc 17 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Double drill holes in this Santa wreck Margarita greenstone artifact, prob- rap ably sheared in two during the destruction of the vessel in the hurricane of 1622, suggest it was worn horizontally, as a pectoral ornament. Photo by Dylan Kibler © Mel Fisher Maritime Heritage Society

director, created the famsi. She then directed me to two Justin Kerr mask with dangles. What they all have com web site to advance the images that display a resemblance in in common is that they began with an foundations mission “to foster form. oblong stone form called a celt. increased understanding of barbara Kerr wrote, “When I opened ancient Mesoamerican cul- the attachment, I thought it looked like Jade tures.” Among its numerous an unfinished Costa Rican celt—but Among Mesoamerican peoples, the features, the site provides an maybe it is finished. The sharp edges [as precious mineral jade and other similar extensive research department, on 50049] appear on K7976 and on the looking hard green stones were symbolic which, according to Barbara K5177 group; and the surface looks well of water (remember Chalchiuhtlicue— Kerr, is used by scholars world- polished…” the Aztec goddess of lakes, rivers and wide. Barbara and Justin Kerr seas) and of fertility, rulership, young are Mesoamerican art experts, Celts, axe-gods, green maize, and of wind, breath and educators, and publishers. pendants and dangles Barbara is a restorer of ancient Axe figure? Celt? All along sculptures and artifacts. Her the cyberspace trail that had husband Justin is renowned for led to FAMSI and the Kerr’s, his magnificent photographs of had been a number of sites Maya vases, captured with his showing artifacts with char- innovative rollout camera—a acteristics similar to #50049, camera that allows him to cre- variously described as “celts,” ate peripheral images of Maya “axe-gods,” “pendants,” and vases in a single exposure. “dangles.” What exactly was The FAMSI research depart- the difference? What made ment provides access not one object a celt and another only to the Barbara and Justin an axe-god? Kerr Photographic Collection, in a nutshell, axe figures are but to the Linda and David objects shaped like a hand Schele Image Collection, the axe. Axe-god figures represent John Montgomery Drawing a being and have a face,

P hoto K7696b © J u stin Ke rr Collection, and the Bibliografía whether it be human or ani- A Maya greenstone belt mask with dangles Mesoamericana. mal. Ones with drill-holes may in separate e-mails to Dr be described as pendants The motherlode Noble and Barbara Kerr, I attached an (worn vertically) or pecto- The path to learning more about jade image of artifact #50049, the 5.5 inch rals (worn horizontally). When and other green stone artifacts eventu- long, one inch wide, rectangular carved intended to be worn hang- ally led, via the Jay I. Kislak Collection stone Santa Margarita artifact. Each ing from a belt assemblage, at the U.S. Library of Congress web site, wrote back almost immediately and which would have been part to three treasures nonpareil: FAMSI, shared her first impressions—impressions of a royal costume, they might the Foundation for the Advancement drawn from decades of training, experi- be described as belt-dangles. of Mesoamerican Studies, Inc., and ence, and knowledge. Sometimes, the dangles were Mesoamerican art experts Barbara Dr Noble wrote, “The shape of your suspended from a mask and and Justin Kerr—truly a Mesoamerican stone made me think of the anthropo- hung from a belt, in which

researchers resource motherlode. morphic “Axe-figures” carved by the case the artifact might be P hoto K2048 © J u stin rr Ke sandra Noble, PhD, FAMSI executive ancient Nicoya culture of Costa Rica.” called a belt mask, or a belt An elite Aztec warrior in elaborate dress; crafted in gold, he carries a shield, a variety of weapons, and ornaments reflecting his social rank 18 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED wreck rap Green Stones

the soul. This concept of jade as sacred and precious was also shared by the Nicoya culture of Costa Rica, and green stone artifacts uncov- ered there, such as the Nearly 400 years before Blue Water Ventures (BWV) began axe-figures photographed searching for the remains of the Santa Margarita, two 17th cen- by Justin Kerr, reveal a con- tury salvors, Captain Gaspar de Vargas and Havana business- tinuity of style and symbol- man Francisco Núñez Melián, had Florida “Indians” and pearl ism with those created by divers from the Caribbean island of Margarita recover treasure from the sunken galleon. On 21 April 2010, BWV diver Gavin Rall Mesoamerican artisans. (left above) surfaced with this carved, polished greenstone arti- Jade is tough as nails and fact. Stone amulet-type artifacts like this one, with holes drilled harder than steel. On the through their breadth, are commonly called “gorgets” and Mohs mineral hardness scale, have been located on archaeological sites throughout Florida. developed by German min- Did this gorget fall from the neck of one of Gaspar de Vargas’ eralogist Frederich Mohs, it or Francisco Melián’s divers? Photos by Carol Tedesco measures between 6.5 and 7 on a scale of one to ten.

While today it may be cut with the use of saws charged with diamond, artifacts like #50049 were cut with… are you ready for this? String. the late Dr Herman Smith, an expert on the coastal trading practices of the Maya and author of numerous articles, wrote of early Spanish reports that describe the cutting of jadeite being accomplished with the use of a cord drawn back and forth in a sawing motion, using hard sand particles and water as cutting agents. Drill-holes for suspending the piece were bored by twirl- ing hollow bird bones filled with an abrasive, such as hard sand or crushed jade.

A manuscript letter, circa 1528, from Dominican Priest Bartolomé de Las Casas (1474-1566) to Holy Roman Emperor Charles V (1500-1558). Las Casas devoted his life to mission work, and was an advocate for the rights of Brian Keegan and Blue Water Ventures investor and crewmember, Hense Robinson, indigenous peoples of the Americas. examine pottery sherds recovered from the Santa Margarita. Every recovered artifact is Library of Congress, Rare Book and tagged and documented with exact location data. Precise documentation allows the Special Collections Division, Jay I. team to observe the exact spatial relationship of artifacts and plot the sequence of a Kislak Collection, Washington, D.C. ship’s destruction. Photo by Carol Tedesco

19 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED wreck rap Green Stones

what is it? and art director, Gunild Symes, imagine that on a ship crossing This greenstone artifact (below), for publication, she e-mailed the ocean, humidity and water unlike any other known 17th cen- back with observations unique to would be a constant problem. tury shipwreck recovered artifact, her own experience as an artist. Plus, glue at the time took a long was discovered by Blue Water She wrote: “Having studied some time to dry and dried hard and Ventures crewmember Gavin Rall. printmaking and papermaking in crackly, so a heavy, level weight Based on the context in which a art school, I can’t help but think was needed to keep the layers RIGHT: Map of Meso- similarly shaped object was pre- that the ‘paperweight’ artifact flat. Bookbinding was an art done america, a culturally sented in a 17th century artwork, has something to do with one of by hand back then, most likely defined area that includes the artifact was tentatively docu- these processes. Because of its by glueing of papers together, so the lower half of Mexico, mented as a paperweight. shape and handle, it could have may have needed a heavy press Guatemala, El Salvador, curious to know if she had ever been used for letter or envelope of some sort. I am not sure about Belize and the western tip encountered anything similar, I folding, embossing or sealing, the processes of each, but it is of Honduras. Dr Sandra Noble, executive direc- sent this image to Mesoamérican or for flattening wrinkled, water- likely that they needed to press tor of FAMSI, explained art expert Barbara Kerr. Her damaged paper.” whatever layers they used with a that the Mesoamerican response assured me that A few days later she had more weight in a screen, or box. Hence, cultures share about 20 decades spent in the study of to add: “It has been such an inter- the shape of the artifact may be traits that are not shared ancient artifacts had not dulled esting puzzle for me that I had formed so it can slide down and by any cultures north of northwest Mexico, nor south of middle Honduras. These traits include the bar and dot her sense of humor. She wrote: to Google the history of parch- fit into a wooden frame, or a sid- counting system, stepped pyramids, the corbelled arch in architecture, earliest subsistence based on domes- “Thank you for the new image. ment, paper, glue and bookbind- ed-tray, holding paper or vellum. tication of the “three sisters” of corn, beans, and squash, and the 365 day calendar, to name a few. Image We’ve never seen anything like ing. Parchment—or velum—and The use of greenstone for the arti- courtesy of FAMSI, the Foundation for the Advancement of Mesoamerican Studies, Inc.: famsi.org it… We speculated from the sub- paper are very fact, especially with its large size, lime to the ridiculous—it could be susceptible to clean carving, and polished qual- The 1622 Fleet connection haps value it simply as a tool with which enous cultures. anything from a paperweight to a humidity, and ity, could point to a high social Being of decorative, monetary, and to sharpen his sword? Could these scale weight to a bacon press…” warp easily ranking or wealth of the owner, practical use, there is no question of why i put these questions to Blue Water beliefs have to illustrate how some of the with mois- ture. as these were quite valu- artifacts like the exotic embossed square Ventures chief archaeologist James existed in passen- most enlightening insights arrive I can able stones.” (Photo of gold or the greenstone “paperweight” Sinclair, who stressed that while the trans- gers or servants by the most delightfully unex- of Artifact 74073 would be among a Spaniard’s belong- fer of beliefs and culture between the of passengers pected means, when I sub- by Ron Pierson ings on the galleon Santa Margarita. But, Spanish and the indigenous populations aboard the mitted this story to © Blue Water what of the pectorals can seem superfi- Santa Margarita? X-RAY MAG’s co- Productions.) and axe-figures? cially to be all one Undoubtedly. publisher, editor ■ because jade was way, it was not. “As Did they hold held in such reverence you can imagine,” he the exact same by New World cul- wrote, “the accultura- meaning as those of the uninflu- tures, carved objects tion process works to enced aboriginal cultures? We can- such as axe-figures some degree in both not say. However, discoveries such were bequeathed as directions, and with as these provide a fascinating view heirlooms. Is it possible a couple of genera- into the mysteries of a culture, a soci- that an artifact such as tions removed from ety, and beliefs that have little to do #50049 came into the the actual conquest with those of the conquering Catholic property of a Spaniard we can reasonably Spanish.” through marriage or expect that traditions carol Tedesco is an internationally Margarita and union with an “Indian” of from both cultures recognized Spanish Colonial coin expert the Portuguese Carrack São aristocratic lineage? are being mixed and and historic shipwreck professional sults for José, published by SeaStory Press, is due Were they stolen? passed along. The who has worked with projects in North some of the most to be released in the fall of 2010. Traded for? Or, since the value of these green America, South America, Africa, and the prominent historic shipwreck search and For more information about Keith resilient mineral jade is stones, while unknown Pacific. A member of the Explorers Club, recovery companies in the world. Her Webb’s Blue Water Ventures of Key West strong enough to hone in classic Spanish con- she is a popular radio guest and speaker forthcoming book, Pieces of Eight ~Silver and the treasures of the Santa Margarita the edge of a knife, did texts, is obviously high- throughout the U.S. on the subject of the Treasure Coins of the 1622 Shipwrecks shipwreck, visit www.bwvkw.com. ■ a soldier of Spain per- ly thought of in indig- 1622 Fleet shipwrecks. Today she con- Nuestra Senora de Atocha, Santa Carol Tedesco 20 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Need a snuggle bear to bring with you? Find this one at The X-RAY MAG Store where a percent of travel news all sales goes to ocean conservation. Click on the ‘Cattle’ class becomes ‘cuddle’ class as image to buy

Edited by Air New Zealand introduces beds in economy Scott Bennett Having been subjected to ever-decreas- and is giving exhausted economy class partially recline, ing comfort levels in recent years, the passengers a chance to put their head with a retractable new seating is a welcome development down. Dubbed “Cuddle Class”, the Air platform that Dominica gears up for for economy travellers. With business New Zealand offering applies to the three- can be class seats becoming more luxurious and seat blocks on its new planes and is being raised to annual dive fest economy seating more cramped, Air New pitched at couples and families with create a Zealand has thrown down the gauntlet young children. The new seating row can flat space The Nature Island Kicks Off across the foot- Its Signature Ten-Day well. Event on July 9, 2010 For couples, the third seat Known as “The Nature comes at Island”, Dominica half-price. is the largest and Whereas, most mountainous of for a family of four, the idea is the Windward Islands, encompassing that one adult can lie down with their chil- an area of nearly 290 square miles. Situated dren while their partner must make do with between the French islands of Guadeloupe an ordinary seat. The airline has also sug- and Martinique in the Eastern Caribbean, gested that children could be allowed to Dominica’s natural diversity is truly unique. use the space as a place area. Boasting a bevy of natural attractions tower- the airline has, however, been quick to ing volcanic peaks, lush rainforests, waterfalls squash any lingering thoughts from cou- and pristine coral reefs, Dominica is a place ples wishing to join the “mile high club”. where humankind and nature live in harmony. “Just keep your clothes on please!” stated Adventurers and nature-lovers alike will revel in Rob Fyfe, the airline’s CEO. a range of eco-tourism options include scuba Read more: http://www.dailymail. diving, snorkeling, mountain biking, kayaking, co.uk/travel/article-1246145/Air-New- horseback riding, nature tours, hiking/trekking, Zealand-offer-economy-class-lie-beds. whale, dolphin and bird watching, sailing and html#ixzz0lBT4X0T7 ■ fishing. Roseau, Dominica and the Dominica Watersports Association, promise to deliver an action-packed ten-day program during its 17th Senators fight airlines over carry-on baggage fees annual Dive Fest from 8-9 July 2010. Dominica hotels and tour operators are offering a variety U.S. Senate Democrats take aim at car- would change how the Federal Aviation transportation. of dive packages, just in time for the festival. ry-on baggage fees after Spirit Airlines Administration regulates carry-on bag- The goal is to ensure that passengers Take advantage of Dominica’s island-wide became the first U.S. carrier to propose gage fees. are not penalized for bringing items such “6 Dive, 5 Pay” Dive Fest special offered at all charging passengers to store luggage in the legislators were motivated by Spirit as medication, food and laptop comput- dive shops between July 1 – October 31. overhead bins. Airlines’s proposal of to charge passengers ers onboard, the senators said. “So far, For more information on Dive Fest and to up to US$45 to stow luggage in overhead one airline has announced their intention view their full schedule of events, contact the “This latest fee crosses the line and is a bins, making it the first airline to charge for to make fees for carry-on bags a reality,” Discover Dominica Authority at 866-522-4057 slap in the face to travelers,” stated Sen. carry-on bags. As a result, Schumer and he added. “We cannot allow these flood or visit the official websites at: Charles Schumer, D-N.Y. “Our legislation the bill’s other co-authors called upon the gates to open,” stated Senator Menendez. will rein in the airlines and keep air travelers U.S. Treasury Department to close a loop- Under current laws, airlines pay a 7.5 cent www.dominica.dm/site/divefest.cfm from being gouged every time they board hole they say gives airlines preferential tax tax for every dollar they collect in fares, www.discoverdominica.com ■ a plane.” The effort comes one day after treatment for fees on services that are not but no tax is imposed on fees collected for two other senators put forward a bill that deemed “reasonably necessary” for air “non-essential” services. ■

21 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED

travel news

Edited by Scott Bennett Commentary �� The Weighting Game

Is it too much to ask for pay US$50.00, which was a lot less this got me to thinking. Why there to be some degree than I would have. I then asked can’t all airlines follow this proce- of consistency when it if I could do this in Kota Kinabalu dure? Seriously, with today’s tech- on the way back. “It shouldn’t be nology, can’t someone develop comes to rules governing a problem,” he responded. On software to keep track of the checked and carry-on the return trip, it didn’t work out total baggage weight utilized on baggage? that way. The agent there said a person-to-person basis? If two she had never heard of this prac- people are under and one is over, In light of Spirit Airlines’ recent pro- tice, and I would have to pay the weight can then be averaged posal to charge for carry-on items, US$100.00 for excess baggage, out and everyone is happy. �� it is increasingly apparent that which was essentially the same as on that topic, why can some- luggage fees are exasperating is- the cost of a one-way ticket. one weighing 200kg get on the sues, which seem to be increasing in Malaysia, it was a different plane with no questions asked, yet exponentially. As a diver AND an scenario entirely. Not only was I I get charged excess for camera underwater photographer, airport not charged excess baggage, gear? In a time when airlines need check-in is a stressful exercise, to but I was also allowed to carry to increase passenger traffic, they say the least. You just never know on two bags plus my laptop! should be looking to attract pas- what will happen. Often, the rules However, the real kicker came sengers not seem to be at the whim of the on a domestic flight flying from cause them person on duty at the counter. Lahad Datu, in eastern Sabah, excessive This point was well-illustrated on a to Kota Kinabalu. After being frustration. ■ recent trip to Southeast Asia. assured it was fine to check the �� Flying on assignment from two overweight bags without Manila to Kota Kinabalu on Cebu any fees, I was told they would Pacific, I really tried to minimize average the weight of my bags my gear as much as possible. amongst the other passengers! While the airline does provide Malaysia Airlines, you’ve got my an option for excess baggage vote! payment at the time of booking, the flight had been arranged for me, and this option hadn’t been selected. The agent said I was a �� good 20 kilos over. To minimize the excess charges, he suggested I take the smaller bag to the �� departure gate, where it could �� be checked in there. I still had to ��

22 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Sub Gear

The FActs and viewpoints in this section ARE NOT NECESSARILY THE VIEWS OF x-ray mag. EQUIPMENT PRESENTED IN THIS SECTION HAve NOT BEEN tested BY x-ray MAG STAFF, NOR ARE THE ITEMS warranteEd. information PROVIDED IS CONDENSED from manufacturers’ DESCRIPTIONS. Texts are usually edited Fin design’s a new for length, clarity and style. Links are active at the time of publication point & click switcheroo on bold links Blades tuck in compactly under the foot pocket for travel or walking Top of the Pops on the beach. Drag your foot backward and the jointed poly- carbon- Equipment ate blades splay out in front of the 40 years foot pocket, ready for kicking action. To celebrate 40 years of manufacturing quality Interchangeable blades allow divers to dive kits, A.P.Valves introduces the new special choose the flexibility for the diving condi- edition BUDDY Commando TD40. Developed tions. Quick release fittings ease doff- to meet the punishing demands ing the fins at the end of a dive. of Navy SAR divers in the mid- Polycarbonate was chosen for its light 1980s, the original BUDDY weight and near indestructibility, Commando subsequently allowing Ultimate to extend a limited took the UK and northern lifetime warranty on the product. European sport, technical and www.SwitchbladeFin.com commercial (sat-diver) diving market by storm, out-selling its rivals for over 20 years and still going strong. The special GEO Eliminate bad edition TD40 is based on the original Commando blueprint. updates air days The new Commando TD40 combines the best of old and into the Chances are slim that a tank new with classic Commando fill will contain carbon mon- TD looks, lift and build future oxide, but CO is definitely a quality together with gas no diver wants to deal the innovative com- The redesigned 2.0 GEO with at depth, especially in fort, custom-fit and dive computer allow users to keep updating the the special mixes that enable precision buoyancy instrument as algorithms are refined. With an optional deep diving. The potentially control features cable, the PC interface can download new software lethal gas can get pumped of the contempo- from the company as it is made available. Users can into tanks filled with a faulty rary BUDDY re::flex choose between Pelagic DSAT or the more conserva- air compressor or if the com- range. Available in tive Pelagic Z+ algorithm, with an option to switch on pressor is downwind from a yellow/black or all- or off deep stop computations. Divers also can switch CO source and its CO filter black. between two different nitrox mixes – each up to 100 has been overwhelmed. KWJ Apvalves.com percent – during dives. Four modes allow operation as Engineering has a handy por- a watch, normal operation with air / nitrox, gauge with a table sensor called the Pocket run timer and free, which tracks calculations when switch- CO Scuba 300 that’s designed ing between normal and free. It can be programmed to allow divers to check tanks for for deco and non-deco diving and features audible or this deadly gas before they jump vibrating alarms. The control interface allows users to step in the water. Put the key-sized sen- back to earlier screens while programming the unit. Up to sor in a leak-proof bag, and then fill 24 dives are stored in the GEO 2.0’s memory and upload- it with air from the tank. Within three mined to a digital logbook. www.OceanicWorldwide.com utes it will sense if CO is present in concentrations as low as 2 parts per million. www.kwjengineering.com

23 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Deep Outdoors Cold Fusion Where techies get their gear. Expert knowledgeable staff & service Deep Outdoors’ Cold Fusion lighting system’s array of light-emitting diode bulbs can deliver up to five hours of burn time at the low-beam setting or 3.5 hours on high. It also has a beacon setting to signal the boat after a dive. And if that’s not long enough, the battery unit is equipped with three-pin wet connectors, so the rechargeable lithium ion battery pack can be switched underwater with a fully charged backup. The light head is fitted with a Goodman handle, which leaves fingers free for gripping. The system is shipped with a battery charger that works with 100- to 240-volt input with a universal switch allowing it to be used anywhere in the world with the appropriate adapter. Charging time is five to seven hours. The rugged machined aluminum system is depth rated to 500 feet and the lamps have a life of 100,000 hours. www.deepoutdoors.com

Turbo charge your kick Cressi Crystal

ScubaMax has updated its fin design in the FN-320 Mach II A new version of the Piuma, made using Turbo fin. The fin’s main design nuance is a trap door near the new, extraordinary Crystal Clear silicone. foot pocket that directs water along the top and bottom of This material offers a level of transpar- the end of the fin with each kick stroke. This design is said by the ency that has never been seen before manufacturer to more efficiently direct the water along the fin to in the production of scuba diving masks. the tip of the blade instead of allowing it to roll off the sides of the Although it still maintains the hypo-aller- fin, where it simply creates turbulence and drag. The fin is molded genic characteristics of the silicones used from neoprene rubber for flexibility, which can be adjusted to per- previously, Crystal Clear is so transparent sonal preference in stiffness by snipping up to three power tabs that it is virtually invisible once the mask has between the trap door and the fin blade. The more tabs that are been put on. In addition to the extraordi- snipped, the more flexible with a caveat: once snipped they cannot nary transparency, this silicone boasts excep- be restored to provide additional stiffness. Fins are available in three tional resistance to ageing and yellowing over sizes: small, for men’s shoe 6 to 8 sizes; medium, 8 to 10 shoes; and time that is far greater than that of traditional large, 10 to 12 shoes. Straps are attached with quick release connec- silicones. Even the tendency to mist up is lower tions to ease removal to climb boat ladders or to walk through the surf than with traditional silicone materials. The seal on the zone at the end of a dive. The fins are negatively buoyant and available skirt has an original angle and offers comfort that has been only in black. www.ScubaMax.us unheard of up until now on a scuba diving mask, even after pro- longed use. www.cressi.it

24 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Diving in From the rugged west coast, with its dramatic drop-off and unique ecosystems, to majestic wrecks—perfectly preserved over the centu- World-classSweden diving in a challenging environment ries—and crystal clear lakes, Sweden has everything.

Compiled and edited by Millis Keegan and Peter Symes Text by Millis Keegan Photos by Jonas Dahm

From a marine archeology and scientific standpoint, the Baltic Sea is a paradise. There could be as many as 100,000 shipwrecks dating back centuries in this dark and mysterious sea— Viking ships, trading ships and warships to name a few. No other place in the world is comparable to the Baltic Sea. The wrecks, and structures found in the sea are veritable time capsules lying in wait for us to explore and expand our understanding of the past. It is also a comparatively quite shallow sea. The average depth is only 55 meters deep, so with modern technology, it is not too complicated to find many of our lost histories. These histories belong to the countries surrounding the Baltic Sea. Granted, diving in the far North is not for the weak-minded, nor for the inexperienced, but it’s not as bad as it sounds. Scandinavian divers are known around the world for being able to cope with rather tough diving conditions because this is where we grew up and learned to dive. Anyone who goes through entry level training in murky waters with a visibility of 2-4 m (6-12 ft) at best, a water temperature averaging 8°C to 2°C in the winter to 20°C in the summer, and comes out with a smile, will be ready to face anything else. And yes, we do also dive during the fall and winter months, too, with great pleasure.

The bridge of the steamer Brigge J onas D ahm 25 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The wreck of Helmerich travel

The Mystery Ship A wooden ship found by the Swedish Navy that, despite a very unusual figure head of a horse, has never been identified or salvaged. The DC-3 A lost plane presumed to spy on Russia and therefore was presumed to be shot down by the same. The discovery of the plane gave answers to a number of questions and peace of mind to surviving family members. ■

My most intense diving experience was a 500-year-old wreck in the Baltic in 1992. She was standing upright, mast still there, but the oak planks were as thin as could be, which left her fragile and exposed to careless diving

E rik B jurstr ö m and rough weather. What really got me though, was that she went Sweden has to highest enter the museum, you will stay down in 1492. The visibility was proportion of divers for hours—it is that good. www. per capita in the vasamuseet.se incredible, I saw the entire wreck, world. We are spoilt and as I swam over the deck, it for choice. Following The Champagne Wreck hit me. When she went down, are descriptions of just One of my favorites is the a few of the jewels. Swedish schooner Jönköping, Columbus discovered America. which was sunk by a German Columbus discovered America! Vasa submarine in 1916. She carried That was heavy, and even though One of, if not the most, popu- an order of French Champagne lar attractions in Sweden is for the Russian Tsar. The bottles the ship itself was a simple, small the Vasa ship. Vasa was a were salvaged near Finland in merchant ship, stripped by years Swedish warship that sank 1998, and they found that the during her maiden voyage French champagne had been of exposure, she was also a monu- in 1628. All but forgotten for perfectly preserved at a con- ment for the men and woman 300 years, she was salvaged stant 4°C and was ready to drink. that explored the world. practically intact on 24 April Many of the champagne bottles 1961, restored and turned were auctioned off by Christie’s — Millis Keegan into a museum. Once you in London.

26 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Swedish islands in the Baltic Sea. The seas have always been rough around this island, and for thousands of years, Points of interest merchant and cargo ships have passed by this area on their way south or north. Almost anywhere there is a puddle of water, there is a possible dive site for diving enthusiasts Maps of Treacherous underwater cliffs have, in in Sweden. Rivers, lakes, deserted water-filled mines, the Baltic, the West Coast. Some true Scandinavia every era, been the downfall for a few with locations of those passing ships. For us divers, they divers and explorers have been bred in these waters. We cannot list all dive sites here, but Norway of Baltic Sea are a godsend. This area is a wreck we have made a selection based on where you can find a dive center to take you diving. Finland diving points bonanza. The best way to get where the of interest best wrecks lie is via liveaboard. We took Sweden a trip around Öland on the M24, an old West Coast of Sweden (1) sulas of Sweden. Kullen stands out from minesweeper converted into a nice livea- There is quite an interesting variety of the surrounding areas with its rocky, Finland board. marine life along the west coast of craggy shore, which continues under Sweden. Hence, it is a very popular des- water. Due to currents that bring nutri- The U-Boat Massacre (7) tination for Swedish divers who get tired ents, the marine life is abundant, par- The two guys who first got the rights to run of the lack of life in the murky waters ticularly during summer and autumn. dive charters in this area, Jan Sangerud of the Baltic. If you have no interest in Expect to find shore crabs, hermit crabs, and Tom Johansson, did the branding of wrecks, this is the place to be. jellyfish, dead mans hand, lot’s of floun- the area. They were sitting down plan- between the 8000 islands of the ders, and on a good day, sea trout, ning how they would market the area archipelago and the fiords, there is cod, mullets and more. Sweden for divers. At the same time, the movie some interesting diving to be found in 3 Chain Saw Massacre had its premiere. terms of marine ecology. Lysekil offers Åland (3) Estonia One thing led to another, and with the diving in the biologically unique fiord The Åland islands are situated at the help of a couple of beers, The Submarine of Gullmarn. Learn more about what entrance to the Gulf of Botnia and form 4 Massacre got its name. So, there you you can expect to find here by visiting an autonomous, demilitarized, Swedish- have it. One will find a small concentrat- Havets Hus, “The House of the Ocean” speaking region and historical province ed area with a group of First World War (havetshus.lysekil.se). of Finland. Åland consists of some 6,500 cargo ships all sunk by one submarine. Day trips are arranged from a islands and islets. Due to different regu- They are easily accessed by boat. number of coastal cities: Marstrand, lations regarding diving and wrecks, Smögen, Hamburgsund, Tanumstrand, the wrecks of Åland are pristine, almost 5 Latvia Grebbestad and Strömstad. Every place always filled with details and in better 1 has its own charm. The further north you condition than other dive-able wrecks go, the better the diving gets. That’s in the Baltic. 6 because the Gulf Stream makes a little turn here and hits a little bit of Sweden. Stockholm Archipelago (4) Lithuania The mixing of cold and warm water The Stockholm Archipelago spreads 7 provides excellent conditions for diverse its islands from Landsort in the south to marine life. Arholma in the north. It is the biggest 2 väderöarna, meaning “The Weather archipelago of Sweden and consists of Islands”, are often referred to as the almost 24,000 islands and islets. It is also Baltic Sea best diving the West Coast can offer. the graveyard for more than 20,000 The islands are home to a large seal located shipwrecks. Shallow inlets and Denmark colony that spends time playing peeka- rocky coasts have sunken more of their boo with divers. fair share of vessels. In the Baltic Sea, you Poland A coldwater coral reef was found not find wrecks from the 10th century or older too long ago in the Koster fiord, which to wrecks from several wars, including earned the fjord the status of becom- the two world wars as well as tragedies The Great Lakes (5) thousands of years, but in freshwater ing a Marine National Park. The reef of from modern times. The Baltic is all about Sweden has thousands of lakes, but only lakes, preservation is even better. The Lophelia pertusa is found deep, so don’t wrecks. Sure, there’s some marine life, a couple of them are large enough for visibility in these lakes is almost as clear expect to dive on it. but seldom for us to see. An occasional merchant ships, Vänern and Vättern. as glass. flounder, or a school of small groupers Wrecks have rested here for centu- Kullen (2) resting on a wreck during a night dive ries without deteriorating in these fresh Öland (6) Kullen is one of the most distinct penin- can be seen, but not much more. lakes. The Baltic Sea preserves ships for Öland is made up of the two largest

27 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Stockholm’s Sweden The best way to get wet in ment immediately upon coming Stockholm is to get on a dive charter on board. When dive time comes booked through one of Stockholm’s around, pull on the rig, suit up and Archipelago dive centers. A dive charter costs jump in. around 500 SEK per dive, and it is usually worth every penny. Do not Donald Duck Wrecks The inner-city wrecks of Stockholm are easy to get to, but expect two tank dives per half day. Both wrecks are located in open You get one dive in the morning and water, at a depth that allows Nitrox despite the novelty of diving in and around downtown one in the afternoon. The weather 32, or possibly 30, as an alternative Stockholm, which in itself can be alluring, the wrecks them- conditions don’t always allow a dive to air. Swells and waves are a con- selves do not have much to offer. Find your way to the outer on the wreck you wanted to dive, cern. This is advanced diving, and Stockholm archipelago, and it’s an all-together different story. but rest assured that the boat cap- a drysuit is recommended for the tain knows what he/she is doing and major part of the year. Is it worth The wrecks there range from interesting to amazing. In pre-GPS will take you to where diving condi- it? Yes, this is always a great dive, times, the more than 20,000 islands in the archipelago were tion are best that day. Don’t expect despite the fact that the weather is extremely hard to navigate, and quite a few wrecks have gone to see a lot of fish—in fact, consider rarely on your side. The wreck sites yourself lucky if you see a fish. In cer- fall under a category Swedes like to under during the last millenium. The very same islands that tain areas, you may see the occa- call “Donald Duck-wrecks”, which helped cause ships to wreck also protected them from winds sional seal. means that the hull is relatively and waves. There is no possible way to tell you about them all, intact, it sits right side up and dis- but enjoy the following selection of favorite dive sites. Dalarö plays great details. Many dive charters take off from Dalarö, a small picturesque little village with a rich history south of Stockholm. This was the final port before the open seas. It took a sailing ship one to two weeks to sail through the archipelago to Dalarö, but it took only half a day by horse and carriage to get there, making Dalarö the place where noble men and owners of the merchant ships joined their cargo for the voyage to other worlds. Najade and Melanie The dive boats depart from Dalarö, and it takes a few hours to get to either of the dive sites. Most boats are smaller, so the trip can be a bit tedious, but if you find yourself a little corner of the dive boat and take a little nap, the trip might seem shorter. But first, the best advice as always is, to don your equip- Text by Fredrik Isakson Photos by Jakob Selbing and Stefan Hogeborn

Diver inspects the

wreck of the Eldaren scott johnson 28 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Stockholm and it’s archipelago. The square marks the city Sweden travel center on this false Dalarö colour satellite image

Company may show up Seals can be seen playing and hunting for fish in the area and on the wrecks, which sometimes can be an eerie wild life encounter when you turn a corner! Even though the seals can add to the dive experience, the wrecks are located within a Seal Protection Area, which means no diving during most of the summer. Sometimes while diving, I keep very still and just wait. On the surface, one sees the seals all the time, and if you’re lucky and take it easy, they might visit you on the wreck to take a closer look at the intruders. You need to keep your eyes on them if this happens; they are like black torpedoes in the gray-green water. Almagrundet 12 April 1933. She man- 34 meters (112 aged to back off the ground, but the ft) where the Najade collision caused severe damage. She visibility is great. A German ship, built in 1910, which was anchored, but it did not take long There are a lot were transporting a cargo of oranges until she gave up and sank. Fortunately of fun details and tobacco when she ran aground on for divers, she settled on hard bottom at to explore, and she is simply one of the best wrecks in Stockholm. The only disadvantage would sentative be the distance to the wreck of the and the exposure to the steamers weather. At the same time, that used that is the reason she is such to sail a great lady to dive. around the turn of Melanie last cen- The Melanie is an old steamer tury. She laying on her side. The hull carried is designed differently from 3,000 tons modern motor ships. Her of coal in design caused her to land the hold, on her side after going down. loaded She was also designed to be sailed and it gets rapidly deeper, so keep an eye on from France when she went under. Her had masts. She is longer and wider than your dive computer. Take a peek into the destination was Scotland via Stockholm. the Najade at 77m (250 ft ) long and 10m galley, and if you have the proper train- It was winter, late in January 1907. Ice (32 ft) wide. ing, there is much to penetrate here from laid in drifts on the surface and made it there is a safety concern—since stem to stern. The visibility is fair, but the difficult to see any shoal or reef in these Melanie rests in such an angle, it confus- water is eeriely milky around the Melanie. hard to navigate waters, so she ran es the mind. When you reach the deck, Still, she is a great ship, a good repre- aground and sank, resting at 35m (115ft)

The wreck of the Melanie 29 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Sappemeere is such a fun wreck, and you might find yourself eye to eye with a seal Sweden travel The Swedish archipelago is a picturesque place to live, inside the wreck and one can have good diving virtually at one’s doorstep they have fun doing it. For visiting divers not so used to the cold water environment, this is a great wreck to start with. Diving still has to be done cautiously and with knowledge. For example, visibility gets really bad, really quickly in the engine room. Divers have died in this wreck, and even seals make their way in without finding their way out again, and believe me, that can be a scary unexpected sight. Ghostlike. Last fall, south of Innerbådan, Biskopsön. comparison. She was a Coaster, traffick- you could still see at this is probably one of Stockholm’s ing the coastal areas. We are still outside least one carcass if you most popular dive sites. It doesn’t get Biskopsön, but closer to the islands and peeked through any of much better than this, weather permit- more sheltered, therefore not so weather the portholes on port ting. On a good day, you can get two sensitive as the Melanie and the Najade. side. great dives in—Melanie, with her old Sappemeer lies on her side, outside the the wheelhouse and charm, and the slightly newer Najade. seal protection area, resting relatively a part of the superstruc- shallow at 25m/82 ft, but you make con- ture up front have col- How to get there: By boat tact already at 16m/52 ft. The wreck lapsed and are a jumble of scrap. Smack was loaded with is spilling out of the hold. Ingrid Horn Best time: Late summer and autumn offers easy penetration, which makes this in the middle of this heep lies the radio, sappemeer is simple fun, and it makes The Ingrid Horn is a very temperamental Depth: Approximately 35 m/115 ft a perfect training wreck for wreck diving and wires criss-cross in all directions. But her a good wreck. Because of her size, old lady, and she decides whether you Conditions: Visibility here is often very and wreck penetration. There are not you still have the feeling of the wheel- 51m/167 ft long and 8.5m/27 ft wide, she have a good dive or not. The number of good. There can be a current, but it is many Stockholm divers advanced and house where parts of a wall and some is easy to grasp, and one gets a good swear words used here... Well, when she not very common. But there is a con- up that have not dived this wreck, and rafters remain. The limestone the vessel feel for the wreck really quickly. lets you enjoy your dive, she is absolutely stant swell here, so manage wonderful. The Ingrid Horn lays pretty your seasickness. You have How to get there: By boat much smack in the middle of a high to be able to handle yourself Best time: The entire season, even traffic channel, so this is one dive you on a moving boat. If you are off season if weather permits. really need to know what you are doing. inexperienced, ask the staff Depth: 16 m/52 ft - 25 m/82 ft, You do not want to come up under a about the best way to get up Conditions: Visibility here range 20-tonnare on its way to Stockholm; you that ladder, that’s where most from 5-20 m/16-60 ft. Rare to make your way back to your entry point accidents happens. encounter current, surface cur- and that’s that. The way to get to the rent can appear some times. wreck is via a marker that leads to an Sappemeer Photography: Quite suitable for underwater rock. From that rock, you fol- She went aground and sank wreck photography, due to her low a line leading into nothingness that 7 November 1969, and is thus laying relatively shallow, light will land you on the aft. The first thing you a relatively young wreck in reaches down to the wreck and see is the spare steering wheel. At that the limestone cargo reflects the point, you are at 24m/79 ft depth. Aprés plongée—Scandina- light from the surface, which it is not far, but for many divers, this is vian berries ripen late in the helps. the turnaround point. Sure they see the season at high latitudes but end up saturated with flavor

30 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Sweden travel The Ingrid Horn is a very temperamental Grand Old Lady, some days wheel, if they are less than four you will be lucky to even reach the feet away, but that’s it. The vis- aft without having to turn back for ibility can be miserable due to the various reasons. Illustration of the Ingrid Horn (below) by heavy traffic. Another reason for Jakob Selbing aborting the dive is that divers run low on air at this point. No shame in that... well, ah, —whom are we kidding—there is shame in that, but it happens. gives you an idea of the size of waters and on huge A sliver of light is still with you at the Ingrid Horn. If you follow the iron ore filled wrecks, this point, and you can explore profile of the stern to the bottom, so having full control the area with some day light. you will also find the base of the over your bearings is a The aft creates an overhang and under water rock. Look up and must. that causes some confusion if you you’ll see leaning over is the stern the visibility quickly haven’t familiarized yourself with covered with rust. A mighty sight. deteriorates, but once the layout of the wreck, since you the wreck is cracked in sev- in a while, the wreck all of a sudden can find yourself eral places, which is the reason shows a nicer side, with a roof above your head, not I choose to follow the port rail and thus begins a fan- knowing how that happened. downward. The starboard railing tastic little wreck trip. Ingrid Horn here, you find the spare pro- is more difficult to follow. A com- After you have passed peller, a powerful piece that pass cannot be trusted in these the fallen mast, there is your tanks, you will not circle the whole, though, Ingrid is a jerk in the gunwale, but it is still whole ship, and that’s just the not that deep, so using relatively easy to maintain orien- way it is. a thinner Nitrox, per- Ana Maria—The tation on this side. The Ingrid Horn is 89m/292 ft haps a 28%, or maybe Perfect Wreck shortly thereafter, you will long and nearly 13 m/ 43 ft wide a 25/25, the so-called A brutal winter storm forced begin to discern the superstruc- and was loaded with iron ore “Stockholm mix”, will Ana Maria to seek shelter ture, which holds lots of room when she sank after a collision 31 allow you to see the in Dalarö around the end and spaces to check out. It gets July 1917. The entire crew except part of the wreck that of the 17th century, and deeper after you pass the super for one person went down with is bored down into the a skeleton crew was left structure at 35m/115 ft. the ship, please respect the fact mud. behind to care for the ship. soon, the front of the wreck that this is also a grave site. Apparently bored by wait- partly disappears into the hard Harburg ing out the long winter, muddy bottom. After a num- How to get there: By boat Harburg, a German the crew fancied visiting ber of dives, I still have a lot to Best time: Spring and autumn steam freighter from with Ahmans Widow, who explore, and I don’t have a full weather permitting, but you never 1919—54m/177ft long a gravesite. Harburg is located lived around a muscet shot picture of her. On the best of really know with Ingrid… and 9.5m/30ft wide—sank after near Stockholm City, just outside away. Rumour had it that dives, you realize you want more Depth: 24 m/79 ft to 38 m/125 ft. a collision with the tanker ship Lidingö. she knew how to serve a and more, and I guess that is Conditions: Visibility varies from Tinny in 1957. She carried iron ore the wreck rests in a steep good beer, and then some. part of the charm with this wreck, bad to worse, with very few and had a crew of 14 men. The angle with the aft ship being the lowest rank, the that one has to explore her piece exceptions. This is one of few dive boiler exploded in the crash, and the first point you reach and the Galley Boy, was left behind by piece, and one never knows sites where you might have to the machinist was shot through bow deep in the mud. As you to tend the ship and the whether dive conditions will allow deal with bad current – or not at one of the ventilation shafts by descend, the stern suddenly stove. Of course, a fire broke a dive at all. all depending on Ingrid’s mood. the pressure from the explosion. appears, just hanging there in the out, and the ship sank, cre- the superstructure needs more Gas mixes: For air in the tank we He was later picked up out of the water. It’s really a strange feel- ating a perfect dive site to attention, and at some point recommend the aft part, and a water by rescuers and survived ing. This wreck is a resting place visit hundreds of years later. I hope to reach the bow! The pony bottle. A standard mix for the ordeal. Ten men died, eight for deceased sailors. There are a Alas, diving her is presently Ingrid Horn is a large ship. Unless many is probably 32% Nitrox and where never found. This is one of lot of details to explore and in an prohibited, thanks to care- you are on mixed gas and just if that’s your choice, do not go those places where you are very old, I think it’s a cabinet for storing less divers damaging the happen to have the right mix in passed the superstructure. In the aware that you are diving on hoses, there are some bones, and wreck. ■

31 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Your new companion under water UEMIS SDA The most user friendly dive computer The Dalarö wreck my imagination tells me that it side, and the wreck lies in a About 30m below may one of the crew members. spot that makes wind and the surface at When and if you penetrate the weather conditions one of Edesön outside narrow corridors of the ship, be its weak points. But if Lady Dalarö in the aware that the steep angle Luck is on your side, you Stockholm archi- makes it harder and more might get excellent visibility pelago is a very well-preserved advanced, so be sure that you in the 20-30m range. That’s wreck from the have the proper training. because of the bottom 1600s. The site is conditions. Eldaren rests in scattered with How to get there: By boat a shallower spot. All around objects: ceramics, Best time: Spring and autumn it, the bottom falls off to a bottles, tools of var- Depth: Around 30m/99ft much greater depth. ious kinds as well as Conditions: The visibility can be Take your time to explore baskets and boxes. really good for being almost in its length of 51.5 meters. It A cannon is still sit- the city, but don’t expect more has a beam of 7.9 meters ting in its mount on than a few meters. There are no and was in its prime, a tank the half deck currents at this dive site that I’m coaster. I llustration : N iklas E riksson aware of. Other interesting points of interests are the superstruc- Nordic Blue Parks—sustainable accessibility Eldaren ture in the aft part, the rud- Eldaren was used as a training der, the torpedo hole on Text by Pernilla Flyg, Curator, these factors interact to create target for the Swedish Navy. star board side at 28m/92ft. Archaeology Unit, Swedish unique conditions for the preserva- They torpedoed and sunk it in National Maritime Museums tion of wooden shipwrecks. They 1979. You will find the torpedo How to get there: Conditions: Visibility is often very loom in the dark on the seabed hole on the starboard side. This This is a boat dive, many of good, sometimes 20-30 meters. The Baltic Sea was formed by the through centuries, masts reaching wreck, being kind of new, is real- Stockholm’s dive boats do trips There can be a strong current, Ice Age. Submerged Stone Age up towards the surface. ly suited for penetration, but as go there, but its really weather so be prepared. settlements remind us of a time These factors also interact to always, be sure to have proper sensitive. Gas choice: I recommend a when the coastlines of the region make the Baltic Sea a habitat for training. She is hard to get to. Best time: This is a good dive site Nitrox 32 as a good choice of looked very different from today. special flora and fauna. But, the The travel time for most of the all year round. gas for diving Eldaren. ■ natural and cultural dive boats are a bit on the long Depth: 35 meters resources of the sea are under constant threat from pollution, looting, cial reef, a habitat for plants and deterioration and animals. Through the Blue Parks, insufficient legal visitors will also be able to visit the protection. most fragile shipwrecks. With guided dives, ROV-tours, or computer We want to dimin- animation, the Blue Parks will wel- ish this threat by come all visitors, not only divers. developing sustainable marine Museums and cultural and natu- tourism combining ral heritage authorities in Sweden, outreach with pro- Finland, Denmark and Norway are tection. The Nordic partners in the Nordic Blue Parks Blue Parks projects project. In Sweden, Blue Parks are This sea is dark, cold and relatively aims to open underwater parks being developed in Dalarö near shallow. The water exchange is combining culture and nature the capital city of Stockholm, and slow, salinity levels are low, and experiences. Once on the bottom, in Axmar historical iron works along shipworms are mostly absent. All a shipwreck can turn into an artifi- the coast of northern Sweden. ■ Picnic on the Swedish archepelago 32 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The Danish Shipworm alert! straits consti- Relief produced by tute a T. Seifert, F. Tauber and vertical B. Kayser with the Leib- threshold niz Institute for Baltic (it gets Sea Research in shallower) Warnemünde, as well as a Germany narrow con- striction, which limits the free exchange of water between the inner basins and the North Sea and Atlantic ocean.

“Shipworm has spread to the Baltic Sea The salt water from for the first time. If it continues to spread, the open ocean is it threatens to destroy still well-preserved denser, and therefore, and irreplaceable shipwrecks and other creeps in a southbound marine archeological remains along the direction along the sea- coast of Sweden. bed below the outflowing “Traditionally, shipworms have avoided brackish water, carrying 400m with it oxygenated waters the Baltic Sea due to its lower salt con- 300m into the Baltic basins —that tent. The Baltic therefore holds a number 200m is if the salty water can 100m of archaeological finds featuring wrecks creep up over the threshold Baltic Sea of wooden ships and structures that would topography 0 m in the Danish Straits (marked -20m not likely have survived were it not for the Vertical relief by a red line on map). -40m mild salinity levels of Baltic waters. exaggeration 100:1 -60m “This is one of the reasons why it was pos- When on occassion this intrusion -80m sible to find the royal warship Vasa, and fails—i.e. due to certain patterns -100m other large wooden vessels, in such excel- in weather and currents—oxygen -120m lent condition after centuries at the bot- depletion leading to widespread -140m tom of the sea,” explained Carl Olof Ced- bottom death due to anoxia in the -160m deeper parts of the Baltics may be erlund, professor of marine archeology at -180m immiment. Södertörn University College in Stockholm. E rik B jurstr ö m

The topograpy of the Baltic salinity which is maintained as a result of Sea is key to understanding abundant freshwater runoff from the sur- A matter of rounding land, is a result of glacial melt- the unique features of this shal- water from the last ice age that ended low body of water, which was, about 10,000 years ago combining with Topography & Salinity as recently as the stone age, a an intrusion of saltwater from the North fresh water lake. Sea when the straits between Sweden Rivers, which exit Lake Vänern to the Lake. The lake was filled by glacial runoff, Ancylus and Denmark opened. Kattegat. Salt water did not enter the but as worldwide sea level continued Lake Text by Peter Symes before the end of what is known as lake, however, which became entirely rising, saltwater again breached the around 8700 years

the Weichsel glaciation, the Baltic was a fresh as the lake rose above sea level. sill about 10,000 years ago, forming a C o mm ons BP. Note The Baltic Sea, which occupies a basin fresh water lake name the Ancylus lake, The date at which the flow was certainly marine Littorina Sea, which was followed that the formed by glacial erosion during the which had no connection to the open blocked is about 8000 BP, when nearby by another freshwater phase before Danish Cr e a tive last few ice ages, is the largest body sea. Some egress continued from the Lake Vättern (part of the waterway sys- the present brackish marine system was straits do of brackish water in the world. The low lake through the Göta and Steinselva tem) became dissevered from Ancylus established. ■ not yet exist Wi k ipe d i a /

33 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Painting portraying the sinking of the Kronan

Kronan (The Crown) became the flagship of the Swedish fleet in 1675. At noon of 1 June 1676, the warship—which was one of the largest ships at the time and Sweden’s first three-decker warship—capsized, exploded and sank during a battle between the Swedish and a Danish-Dutch joint fleet in what became known as the Battle of Öland. All but 42 of her 850 crew perished. Text and dive photos by Erik Bjurström The hull is broken apart, but a large section of the port shipside is intact and laying with the outside facing the bottom clay. the better- preserved parts of the wreck scott johnson have yielded scott johnson large quantities of artifacts. After two-thirds of the site had been excavated, 20,000 objects had been catalogued. in 2005, a chest was salvaged from Kronan that contained 6,246 silver four-öre coins and 168 Kronan mark and thaler During the maneuvres, Kronan turned one of the greatest maritime disas- coins, all minted sharply against the enemy without ters in Swedish history. She rests at a in 1675. This is the largest closing her gunports or reefing her depth of 26m about six kilometers off homogeneous Swedish sails, and as she heeled over in the the coast of Öland. treasure found to date. strong southwest wind, water started During 2007’s excava- pouring into the gunports, capsiz- Excavation tions, lots of skeletal re- ing her. As she was sinking, a lamp The wreck of the Kronan was locat- mains were excavated in the gunpowder store allegedly fell ed in 1980 by marine archeologist, from the site. off its hook and ignited the gunpow- Anders Franzén, who had found Check out the exhibit der, causing a violent explosion. The the wreck of the Vasa in 1956. The regalskeppetkronan.se ■ ship sank quickly, taking all but 42 of ongoing excavation of the Kronan LEFT TO RIGHT: Diver inspects her 850 crew to a watery grave. The has become the largest underwater grave site; human skull on doom of the Kronan is considered archeological project in Sweden. Kronan; Wooden sculpture scott johnson on wreck; Detail of canon scott johnson 34 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The Baltic Sea showed itself at its best for a day Sweden travel in May. It was flat and glittering blue. Under water, it also looked good. We came down in very clear water, with at least 20m visibility. But there was no mistaking it for the Red Sea—it was cold, so cold that my heated underwear in my drysuit was a blessing.

Led by the charismatic Captain Francis Cromie, the British submarine flotilla became a vital element in the struggle taking place in Russia in 1917. In contrast to the headlines made by British submarines in the Gallipoli campaign, few people are aware that during the First Wolrd War, British submarines operated in the Baltic for three years under the most extreme conditions

Under the command of Lieutenant Commander Francis Cromie, the British Submarine E-19 was able to sink several German ships, most notably on the 11 October 1915, when she sank four German transport ships just south of Öland within a few hours and, remarkably, without any casualties.

Text and dive photos by Erik Bjurström

The shotline missed our target and we scene. Approaching along the bottom, reason, algae was growing only on the ended up on the flat bottom at 40m the bow looked enormous, as it rose caulking in between the teak ribs, creat- Erick cruz - scuba dogs (130ft). My compass and intuition took above us. The two big anchors were still ing a beautiful pattern. Two huge anchor me in a certain direction, and then I saw in place, draped in trawl-nets. We swam winches were standing on the deck. the bow of a big ship. The sun penetrat- over the rail onto the foredeck. It was A scene like this could probably only ed all the way down, and we could see very clean and in amazingly good condi- be witnessed in the Baltic. The proximity the whole vessel. It was a magnificent tion. The teak deck was intact. For some to the main trading route between east- ‘The U-boat Massacre’ — an almost unbelievable tale from the First World War

35 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sweden

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Blue-striped grunt; Porkfish and grunts school together; Diver sheds torch light on giant sponges on a reef wall; Spotted moray eel (inset); Diver with green sea turtle cruising the reef off Cozumel

SS Nicomedia

ern and western Europe; the relatively A Gentleman’s shallow depth in open sea; the fact that Touch because of darkness, cold, low oxygen The English sub- levels and lack of woodworm, wrecks marine HMS E-19, are extremely well preserved—all this under the com- makes the island of Öland at the south- mand of Lt-Cdr east corner of Sweden one of the most Francis Cromie, interesting marine archaeological sites in was the last of five the world. subs to slip through With the excavation of the Kronan, the small strait of a 17th century man-of-war, came the Oresund and enter realisation that the conditions for diving the Baltic Sea in SS Valter Leonard in deep water in the open sea outside September 1915. Öland were excellent. Visibility deeper Its task was to disturb the iron ore traffic through October 1915 down is often like that of tropical waters, the Baltic that was vital to the German war effort. Cromie had a bad time in the south Baltic on 10 though the light can be poor because The command did something rather unheard of in October 1915. He attacked the German steamer of plankton at the surface. a war. He managed to destroy and sink five ves- Luleå, but not one of his four torpedoes had in shallow, coastal waters, the wrecks sels without using any torpedos, and without any- worked, and one had changed course and made get eroded by currents and storms. one getting hurt in the process! A myth was born, a turn aiming for his own vessel. The torpeo missed Soon, only a heap of timber, or a clean which the divers named, The U-Boat Massacre. E-19 by only 15m. He had had to write off the steel hull, remains. But deeper down, the action. But the next day, he would make up for it. wrecks are intact. And I mean intact, up to the funnel. In many, you can swim into the captain’s cabin and sit down at Because of darkness, his desk. the first spectacular find was made in cold, low oxygen 1982. These were vessels that were the levels and lack of victims in the E-19 or U-boat massacre. woodworm, wrecks A group of divers got a tip from a fisherman about a big object on the sea- are extremely well floor ten nautical miles south of Öland. It preserved was the wreck of the German steamer, SS Nicomedia. Research into its history revealed a fascinating forgotten story Bj üst röm from the First World War. Er i k

The most beautiful and romantic of the wrecks Is the Gutrune, 97m long scott johnson 36 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Diver inspects the wreck of the SS Gutrune in the travel Baltic Sea Sweden SS Walter Leonard Another ship, After identifying her as cedure of evacuating the Lying south of Öland at 8:30 am on 11 the SS Germania, crew before opening the October 1915, Cromie sighted the SS spotted the Walter German, Cromie politely valves was repeated. Time: Walter Leonard, a 1261-ton freighter Leonard going asked the crew to man the 3:00 pm. carrying iron ore and pulp to Germany. down and tried lifeboats, requested a passing After identifying her as German, Cromie to flee, but ran SS Nicomedia politely asked the crew to man the life- aground on the Swedish ship to pick them Just before dark, cromie boats, requested a passing Swedish ship coast. The crew up and at 11.15 sank Walter sighted his final victim, the to pick them up, and at 11:15 am, sank abandoned her SS Nicomedia, a steamer of the Walter Leonard with explosives. and E-19 went up Leonard with explosives. 4391 tons. the same procedure was alongside. repeated, but only after the boarding For an hour they crew had been invited to share a glass looted Germania of beer, and a barrel of beer had been and, after placing sent to the rest of E-19’s crew! All to no their explosives, went avail. Nicomedia suffered the same fate out to sea again. as the other four vessels. The crew man- Time: 1:00 pm. aged to reach shore in their lifeboats.

SS Gutrune Still drinkable E-19 had man- Immediately Cromie The beer story was still drinkable! The idea arose to sighted a new target, doesn’t end there. aged to destroy extract the yeast organisms and brew the SS Gutrune, an When diver Stefan five German ships in the same beer again. It was a success, impressive combined Fransson found one day, without using and the special “wreck beer” went on cargo and passen- cases of the beer sale in Sweden. ger steamer of 3039 on Nicomedia, torpedoes and without tons, heading for he found that it anyone getting hurt! Made the Front Pages Germany with iron The english submarine E-19 had man- ore. E-19 intercepted aged to destroy five German ships her, and once again, in one day, without using torpedoes the crew were asked and without anyone getting hurt. to leave their vessel, The sinkings made the front pages in to be picked up by a the local papers. But because they passing Swedish ship. were all foreign vessels in interna- Gutrune was sunk by tional waters, they were never put opening the bottom in any registers in Sweden and not valves. Only an hour noticed by wreck-searchers. had passed. Wreck Beer In 1999, some beer bottles Forgotten until 1982 SS Director from Nicomedia were re- The wrecks were for- Reppenhagen covered. Perhaps this was gotten until 1982, While checking the the same beer that was when divers, nationality of another offered to E-19. The yeast Torleif Nilsson ship that turned out in the bottles was still alive and Sten to be Swedish, E-19 after all these years. It was Lindgren, sighted a fourth re-cultivated by Slottskäl- were tipped German ship, the lans bryggeri, a Swed- off by a fish- 1683-ton SS Director ish brewery, in 2000 and erman about Reppenhagen, laden sold as the “Wreck Beer”. a big object with iron ore. The Alas, this beer is no longer on the sea- by-now familiar pro- brewed. ■ floor south of Getting ready to dive the E-19 (above and bottom right) 37 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Scan af SS Nicomedia. Leaving Oland, you can reach Nicomedia in an hour Captain Francis Cromie, a submarine commander at the age of 24, forged a was even a nice intact porcelain successful career attack- stove, though this has, sadly, now ing German shipping in the collapsed. Baltic Sea in 1915, despite The Walter Leonard is more the hazardous nature of eroded than the other wrecks, the climate and the feroc- but the stern is beautifully intact, ity of the German navy. with the big spare steering wheel During his three years in the nicely draped in algae. It is the Baltic, he became fluent in only wheel remaining on the four Russian and was decorated wrecks. three times by the czar of Russia. He also received the Oland. They found a wreck and hour. Built in 1901, 4391 tons and taken, it is heaven for the wreck End of E-19 and Cromie Distinguished Service Order. a bell with the name Nicomedia. 117m long, its deck is at 25m, photographer. It all depends The bloodless massacre off His murder in the British That name gave up the story. making it the shallowest of the on the time and the extent of Oland marked the end of embassy in 1918 came as their research also gave the wrecks. The hull is completely the plankton bloom, which in Cromie’s luck in the Baltic. E-19 a shock and has retained approximate positions of the intact, and a visit to the engine turn depends on light and water and the other British subma- a tragic mystery until now. other wrecks. With more help room is a must. It has a complete temperature. The midships build- rines continued to operate from The author’s extensive from fishermen, they were able workshop with lots of tools and ing is only a shell, though stand- Russian bases in the Baltic, but research has revealed the to locate all four, with Director a nice engine telegraph on the ing upright. The sunrays passing without any more big victories. circumstances surround- Reppenhagen and Walter wall. May it continue to rest in through it create a beautiful light The E-19 was scuttled outside ing Cromie’s murder and Leonard found on the same day. peace. show. Helsinki in April 1918 to avoid it exposed facts about his the most beautiful and roman- on the Director Reppenhagen, falling into German hands. complex character and First class wreck dives tic of the wrecks is the Gutrune, 80m long and lying in 35m, the Francis Cromie ended his The Life of Captain Francis Cromie CB DSO his relationships with the The wrecks are first-class dive 97m long. When visibility is 20m, most remarkable sight is Captain days as a marine attaché in RN, 1882-1918 is available from Amazon Russians and the British sites and attract divers from all as it often is in May and June Spiegel’s cabin. All the wood is in Petrograd. He was shot on 31 Establishment. ■ over Sweden. Leaving Oland, and sometimes even in July, good shape, with intact panels August 1918 when Bolsheviks you can reach Nicomedia in an when the pictures here were and furniture. Until last year, there attacked the English embassy. ■

Gotland and Öland, the Located south of Gotland, Öland visitor who wants to experience World Heritage Site two large islands outside is a long, narrow island with end- the rare atmosphere and beauti- In the south of the island is the Gotland less flat plains and long white ful light and landscapes typical of peerless Alvaret, or limestone pla- Sweden’s east coast, are beaches. It is reached by the the island is recommended to visit teau, included on Unesco’s World both exclusive destina- town of Kalmar via the long Öland in spring or autumn, when nature Heritage List for its unique nature & Öland tions of unique scenic bridge. In the summer time, Öland is at its most beautiful, and peace, values, with a large number of beauty and rare atmos- is busy with holiday-makers, so a quiet and poetry rules. rare orchids, plants and species. The Långe Erik lighthouse phere, popular among and the Ottenby bird station on Swedish holiday-makers the southern cape is a favourite but less known by interna- destination for ornothologists from tional tourists. Both islands all around Sweden and Europe. In the cozy and picturesque town C o mm ons are among Sweden’s old- of Borgholm, and also in other est settlements, with some places around the island, there of the country’s oldest and are several attractive hotels and restaurants that are also open in

Sw e d en most fascinating historical H o ga n - Wi k ipe d i a the off-season. ■ i l sson/ V isit sights. Source: www.visitsweden.com

Hu ett- N Gettlinge Gravefield, Stora Alveret, Öland C . Mich a e l

U lf Johné r - One of many beaches of Öland

38 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Liveaboard Dive a selection of the best wrecks in Sweden, in style and comfort aboard the former minesweeper, M24. Text by Fredrik Isakson Photos by Stefan Hogeborn

I am about to embark the “Big M”, Lilly which is moored in the small port of First, we dive the Lilly, a wreck sitting Sandhamn—a small settlement in upright at 30m, which went down in the peripheral part of the Stockholm 1925. She is 48 meters long, and the Archipelago. I find only a few boats most prominent sight as you reach her left in the small port but once bustling is the large open cargo hold. Close to harbour. Fishing is a dying industry, it are the remains of a bilge pump that and there is little the small local dive worked so hard to prevent the sinking. tourism industry can do to remedy Visibility is good, and there is practical- that despite the fantastic diving in ly no current, so it’s just about having this region, which is exactly what I am fun. Lilly is a pleasant acquaintance. here for. Ahead of us lies some of the She has a beautiful skylight, many best wreck diving Sweden can offer. exciting holes and openings well-suited for simple penetration, if you have No crowds the proper training. The Big M allows no more than nine guests, so there is never a crowd. As On a windy day always on a liveaboard you get close Half way through the trip, the wind to your fellow traveler-divers within no increases to a point were we have time. You quickly fall into a routine. to seek shelter. We leave Öland and Two dives a day. A proper lunch with head for Oskarshamn on the main- recipes taken directly from the mili- land and end up in the middle of a tary’s own cook book, which basically Harbour Festival. Loud music, dancing means a good old-fashioned Swedish on the streets and happy, drunk peo- Slow days on M24—you dive, you rest home-cooked meal that’ll fill you right ple all around. During the night, the up. wind increases further, so we decide to stay in port and join the party, as the sea is too rough for safe diving. Malmöhus Since we are on the inside of Öland, we intend to make an attempt to dive a paddle steamer, the The majestic bow of the Nicomedia Malmöhus. The visibility can be pretty mediocre between the able. The front salon was still in the okay, but from there on it deterio- mainland and Öland, process of being decorated, and ates with the water turning milky. As but the wreck is sup- to let the paint dry, the painters left we land amidships, the viz is down to posedly worth the two transverse bulkheads open. They half a meter at best. The light from our attempt. She went locked the door to the salon to pre- lamps disappears into the fog, and down on her maiden vent guests from wandering in by mis- we have to resort to finding our way trip, on 12 January take. It was windy, and water made around by touch. Needless to say, we 1882, for a pretty it into the salon, which kept on taking still get lost, so we decide to abort the dumb reason, which on water. And the rest is history... dive. We shoot off our safety sausage was easily prevent- Down to 20 meters the visibility is and commence our ascent.

39 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sweden

Diver Christopher Zell having a beatiful day on the M24; The stern of the Nicomedia Skriner Humber Klockvraket We had better luck on the Another wreck, Humber, is one Another memorable dive is following wrecks. On the of the most beautiful wrecks Klockvraket, a wreck full of Skriner, my main lamp failed, I have visited. The visibility is bottles and porcelain. Some and I continued diving with crystal clear, and I could see of the bottles are still sealed. my back-up light as the main the entire ship before me This is an old ship and in a bit source. But light reaches when I reached 25m. I found of a mess. What’s so interest- down from the surface and the compass, it was covered ing about this wreck is how into the darkness of the deep, with silt, and when I brushed it one can see the entire dive so I actually get a really cool off, I could still see the details. site due to the incredible vis- overview of the wreck even The cargo is still intact, the ibility. though we are 28 meters hold contains scrap metal. below. As I looked up, I saw the Accept the weather the bowsprit sticks out chimneys majestic profile Diving around Öland is fan- from the wooden wreck, it stretch toward the surface. I tastic but also somewhat has some gorgeous wooden didn’t want to leave. On the temperamental with weather details carved on the stem. ascend line, I catch myself conditions that may put a halt Divers heading down towards the machine room, into the bowels of the Nicomedia On deck, I spot a prism, used smiling. That evening, as I lay to diving for a day or three. to spread light in the ship. A in bed, I think about the dive. But for what you might see, it On board, dive stories about previous As I looked up, I saw the chimneys majestic profile stretch toward the sur- unique sight, that’s usually one This is how diving should be, is worth the trip. For more infor- adventures are told, you’re logging your face. I didn’t want to leave. On the ascend line, I catch myself smiling. That of the first things taken from always—just perfect condi- mation, visit: www.m24.nu ■ dives and chilling between dives. There is an old wooden ship. tions, and an incredibly beau- lots of laughter. Stress is relieved, and your evening, as I lay in bed, I think about the dive. This is how diving should tiful wreck. day-to-day problems melt away. You are be, always—just perfect conditions, and an incredibly beautiful wreck. among your peers and all is good

40 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The Åland archipelago as seen from a ferry (below); At a depth of 50 meters, one will find the steering wheel of the Hindenburg (left) travelÅlandWrecks of Sail Ship Mecca

Åland consists of some 300 habitable islands and some When other nations began replacing their the islanders are proud of their heritage, 12,000 smaller islands, cliffs and sailing ships and investing in steamships, the so there are still many beautiful tall ships sail- rocks. The landscape is pristine, islanders of Åland went in the opposite direc- ing the waters around Åland. On any given practically untouched and tion. They bought old sailing ships cheap and day, you will find unique sailing ships above has a raw beauty to it. This is kept them sailing, transporting cargo from and below the surface. A good starting point a small self-governed commu- port to port. In many ways, they were inferior for a journey back in maritime history is the nity with only 27,000 Swedish to the steamships, but the windjammers car- Åland Maritime Museum and the museum’s speaking citizen in a region ried lots of sails and were still fast in windy sail ship, Pommern. of Finland. Due to its strategic conditions and had no expenses for fuel. location, many of the Baltic Some of them didn’t even have engines. Diving trade routes pass the islands Needless to say, they were fighting a battle Going with the locals does not only make both in the past and today. they were ultimately deemed to lose, but for for an obvious choice in a good guide, in Navigation in these waters has a little while longer, the majestic sailing ships Åland, it is also a requirement, according to always been difficult. In the kept sailing. the strict regulations for diving. near vicinity of Åland, there scott johnson are at least 500 known wrecks.

Text by Fredrik Isakson Underwater photos by Stefan Hogeborn

scott johnson 41 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Another fantastic detail on scott johnson the Belliver, which was found Aerial photo during the discovery of S2 by of Åland by project leader Björn Rosenlöf travel Hannu Vallas Sweden Lundqvist recommends two specific wreck dives: “Start with Plus, a really large sailing ship, a magnificent Diver Jonas Pavletic looks at the three-masted windjammer that went ship’s bell of the Hindenburg down in 1933. It is 75 meters long and standing at a slope with the stern at 17 meters and the stem at 32 meters with a 30-degree angle. The masts reach for the surface and all but a few details are intact. A few items from the wreck can be found at the museum, but everything else is still there. The steamer Belliver is also a great wreck.” The No-Touch Law One of many The fine condition of the details on wrecks is down to Åland’s the pristine unique law regarding Belliver shipwrecks which dic- tates that nothing is to be touched. Thanks to ville Lundqvist is the strict enforcement of the owner of dive this no-touch law, most You may look but not touch center, Oceanic wrecks around Åland are Tech Åland, which is licensed to take divers to the wrecks. When asked why divers should come to Åland to dive, Lundqvist said: “It is one of the very few places on Earth where you can find wrecks with all wooden details intact and where all its artifacts remain onboard. It’s a time capsule of a past that you will have the opportunity to visit. Around Åland, there are more than 600 known shipwrecks, not all of which have been located yet. “We organize dive trips, and we visit about 30 different wrecks today. Most of the wrecks are from between the 19th and 20th centuries. We’ve got sailing ships, steamers and modern ships, but you won’t find many warships. Several Russian submarines have sunk in the area, but unfortunately, it’s prohibited to visit them, because they are declared war graves.” Many beautiful tall ships are still sailing the waters around Åland

42 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED A reserve compass on the travel Belliver Sweden far more interesting than wrecks guard controls elsewhere. all the waters by the legistation, which dates radar, and they back to 1974, states it is unlaw- check the div- ful to collect any artefacts or ing boats. This tamper with the wrecks. To ensure law has been that the divers abide by the law, respected during divers can’t dive on their own but the last 35 years. It must go with dive operators who means that, more are required to obtain a license or less, everything to dive in waters that belong to is still down on the Åland. No penetrations of wrecks wrecks.” are allowed either. There are only a few certified dive centers Plus allowed to arrange diving on the Plus, a three- wrecks. masted windjam- some wrecks are limited in mer, was on its terms of how many visits a year way from London the centers can do. For example, to its home har- only 12 visits per year are allowed bor on Åland, at the icebreaker, Hindenburg. All Mariehamn, when it ran into Beliver like she is still sailing. All the details these rules might seem annoying, bad weather and poor visibil- Lundqvist described the wreck of such as ship bells, compasses, tel- but it gives Åland some unique ity. The captain signaled for a the Belliver as “a fairly new steamer egraphs are still there, on deck.” wreck diving features. In addition, pilot but received no assistance found in 2009”. Lundqvist added, the absence of trawling in the and decided to continue to “She is 60m long, and she is unbe- Hindenburg area means no fishing nets have Mariehamn nonetheless. He could lievable! She stands on the bottom The Hindenburg served as an ice- destroyed the wrecks. hardly see ahead through the 30 meters down, and she looks breaker for the German Navy, and dense fog, and just 100 meters Radar enforced from shore, the vessel rammed a “The license is given to local dive shoal, which ripped out the bot- centers, like mine, so they may tom. She went down in a matter bring divers out to the dive sites”, of seconds taking 12 men with Lundqvist explained. “The coast her. Only four survived. there are so many interesting details on the Plus, but Diver Tor do check out Jörgensborg the stem with documents the its violin-like fig- findings on one urehead. The of the first dives on the Belliver masts still have all the rigging details, and the skylights gives Even sailors you a chance have to take to peek inside. a dump Dive depth is 17-32 meters.

The Pommern Mariehamn. Photo by Annica Jensson Skinny-dipping off the coast of Åland, a favorite local past-time. Photo by Daniel Eriksson 43 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sweden was changed to Frock, and as any Other wrecks naval history buff knows, chang- The wrecks lie in the depth range ing a ship’s name means bad luck, of 10 -120m. All the wrecks have all indeed. In this case, it came in the their wooden details intact and are shape of a close encounter with a in very good condition, so it is like German submarine. diving in a maritime museum. since Åland was a part In only Lundqvist said, “We have of the Russian Grand two hours, a team of enthusiasts who Duchy at that time, search for wrecks. In August and the German cap- we picked 2009, we made our last tain found the Helge/ up three new search before the winter, Frock carrying cargo for following a tip from a local the Russian military, he wrecks on fisher. In only two hours, we decided to sink it with our sidescan picked up three new wrecks explosives and without on our sidescan sonar! This futher ado, she was sent sonar! was amazing and out of to the seabed 51 meters the ordinary, as we sometimes below. The wreck is 61 meters long spend whole days without finding and has a beam of 8.5 meter. anything. some cruisers used her to shield “This is a really good wreck, and “The wrecks are lying on depths them from mines. The arrange- an excellent technical dive. She between 85-120 meter. We have ment worked out good for the is in very good shape.” Lundqvist identified one of the wrecks as the cruisers but Hindenburg hit a explained. “You can really feel how lost steamer, Centric. She was built mine, which blew a big hole in time has stood still. On the wreck, in Glasgow in 1903 and struck a the bow, and she went under, you’ll artifacts still in place, as if the mine in 1915. Now, she is standing taking three of the crew with her. ship sank yesterday, such as ship with the bow on the bottom at 106 now she is a beautiful wreck, bells, wheels, telegraphs and many meters and the stern at 85 meters. 51m long with a beam of 13m. more items,” he said. She is in very good condition. We The wreck is full of details, brass are planning to do some more all over, porcelain, engine tele- documentation this graphs and a huge prop. The bot- season, as well as try tom is at 47m and average diving to identify the other depth is around 40m. It is a bit on two wrecks,” said the deep side for sport divers but Lundqvist. is a commendable dive. If you there are so many are a tech diver, use helium, so reasons to dive in you remember what you see. It the waters around is also cold and dark, and while Åland, and the rest Åland generally has excellent vis- of the Baltic, not ibility, it is not always the case. So one of them hav- be prepared, plan accordingly, ing anything to do and dive within your limits. The with fish. But expect Baltic is not like the tropics. one thing: after a trip here, any other Helge wreck you visit might Another beautiful wreck is the just feel like a pile of Helge, an old wooden sailing junk. steamer from the 1869. She had the editors wish to three masts; the early steamers thank Ville Lundqvist, were constructed so they could Oceanic Tech Åland also make use of the wind. Just a and Divealand.com ■ month before she sank, her name A ship’s watch on the Helge 44 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Freshwater crayfish, A 90-year-old which is regarded as sewing machine a local delicacy, may from Husqvarna be fished during five — goods from Sweden weekends in August the wreck of the The Lakes and September steamer, Per Brahe

the lack of shipworm and the low levels of oxygen at depth, which makes for a near perfect environment for those old wooden wrecks. The wreck sites include the steamer, Per Brahe, which sank in 1918 taking with it the famous Swedish painter and illustrator John Bauer and his family who all perished. The boat was salvaged, but to this day wreckage is still lying scattered on the seabed at 35m. some dive sites are a given to visit, such as the wrecks of Ulrika, Måsen (The Seagull), Hajen (The Shark) and Kung Ring (The Ring King). They are located at reasonable depths and in areas which make them suitable for most divers. Life Vättern is Sweden’s second largest lake. With merchant and pas- The lake provides a pris- senger ships crossing it, there’s bound to be a wreck or more tine and stunning underwater environment. throughout the years. The fresh water has kept them well pre- There is not an awful served. The underwater landscape is dramatic, with steep walls, lot of fish life, but there and divers ranging from beginner level to advanced can find are a lot of crayfish in something interesting here. Visibility is always good, but the very the fall as well as pike, perch, salmon, char cold water preserving the wrecks in the lake also makes great and trout. demands on the divers and their equipment. scott johnson Text by Fredrik Isakson and Peter Andersson Ready to rock and roll Photos by Peter Andersson

The diving is mostly done on the East side and at the municipalities of Ödeshög and Motala. At Ödeshög, we find wall diving with big boulders lying on a number of ledges. These ledges are like a gigantic stairway down to 70m. Most of the many well-preserved wooden wrecks that have been found in the lake are located in the vicinity of Motala—a little town on the eastern shore of Lake Vättern, which is regarded as the main centre of both the Göta Canal and the surrounding lake region. the fine state of preservation is due to

Ebatus et; C. Mae occhica edicient per 45 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Circumstances his regulator rig without a prob- Visibility in the lake is around 10m. lem. It was a decision that would Temperature is on the cool side, come back to haunt him later. and at depth, is usually outright We decided to start with Hajen frigid. The lake is deep, and after (The Shark), a wreck not too far two months of persistent icecover outside the port of Hjo. In the har- during the winter, it takes many bor, there was this hole-in-the-wall weeks before the lake warms up joint that sold smoked and fresh again. fish. Peter picked up some treats A deep freshwater lake is a little for us, and off we went. bit more demanding on regula- outside the protection of the tors than the open sea, as the salt harbor, the waves were high. The in seawater counteracts freezing lake is known for it rapid changes to some extent. And with no salt in weather. One moment the present in the lakes, equipment surface may completely still and failure might come sooner than smooth, and an hour later, the later, which should be taken into lake is brimming with large, pow- consideration. Using a twin set of erful waves. The lake is a long regulators is recommended. one. The waves build up along the length of it, with nothing to Going diving stop them from growing. Good Accompanying me on my seamanship is surely a require- Burbot (Lota lota) from the old french, barbot, is the only freshwater gadiform (cod-like) fish. It is most upcoming dive was my buddy, ment in these parts. common in streams and lakes of North America and Europe above 40°N latitude. They are edible Alex Dawson, and our hosts, Peter We reached our destination Peltonen and Eva Lindahl, from and made our way down the of the hull reached up above Bronze Age site i saw submerged the local dive store, Oxygene, line to the wreck. The water was the mud. The masts stuck up like That evening, we opted for a stumps of trees that located in the city of Hjo. They clear, blueish-green and icy cold. toothpicks stretching for the sur- more protected site an archeo- grew on land 2,500 urged us to use an extra second hajen was carrying a cargo of face. It was actually really pretty. logical site from the Bronze Age, years ago, and I stage. Alex declined the offer. He bricks and sunk deep into the silty Then Alex’s regulator started free- starting at four meters below tried to picture life has done numerous ice dives with bottom; only about one meter flowing. Time to abort the dive and located outside the city of back then and how and admit that the locals Huskvarna. Part of it was still not they made offerings were right. Always heed the excavated. Over the millenia, to the gods right advice given by the locals. Vättern sort of “tipped”, due to here. Crayfishes in assymmetric land rise with water abundance kept us now covering what was once company during the Then Alex’s regu- areas of dry land areas. dives. Spring was on We dived on a stone struc- its way. Stump of a tree that grew on land 2,500 years ago lator started free- ture surrounded by a bog. It was the weather had flowing. Time to assumed that this was a gravesite, cleared up, and the since human bones were discov- late evening sun brightened The author wishes to thank Ulf abort the dive and ered here. A number of weapons my mood, and I remembered Långström, Ulf Kajhammar, Peter admit that the and other valuables were also why I loved diving. Vättern has Peltonen, Eva Lindahl, Johanna found in the bog—several of so much to offer. Tomorrow Johansson, Håkan Petterson and all locals were right. them by divers. was another day, and we other helpful people he met. there should be more finds had many dives ahead of us. from the Viking Age, as well I had hardly seen anything Oxygene, Jönköping, where contrib- The Greve Rosén is a as the Bronze Age, on this site. yet. Maybe there was a wreck uting photographer Peter Andersson type of vessel that was Just remember: anything found out there with my name on it, is based, organizes trips several times typical for Lake Vättern in belongs to Sweden and is pro- somewhere, some place. ■ a week and offers training from entry the late 1800’s - earlying tected by law. level to instructor as well as the full DSAT 1900’s. Standing at 42m, program from Tec 40 to Tec Trimix. it is relatively undived

46 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED A talk with Carl Douglas Deep Sea Productions

Text by Millis Keegan. Photos by Jonas Dahm. The Baltic Sea may not boast great visibility, but it is famous for its many pristine wrecks, some of which are centuries old. Only a few will ever have the opportunity to experience these astounding time capsules, but through the book, Shipwrecks of the Baltic, you get a glimpse of one of the most well-kept secrets in the diving world: that in the Baltic Sea, you’ll find the most spectacular wreck dive sites in the world.

The book, Shipwrecks of the Baltic, is the Björn researched and wrote the text. Carl result of a project that has been in the and Jonas led a group of experienced works for five years. The main goals of the divers who explored the wrecks, and project were to find, dive and document Jonas took all of the underwater images. ships lost in the Baltic Sea and to tell their the book was produced by Deep Sea stories. Productions, a Swedish company that pro- it was quite an undertaking performed duces documentary films and now also by Björn Hagberg, Jonas Dahm and Carl books. As it happens, Carl is also a friend Douglas. Jonas and Carl worked to find of mine, so naturally it falls upon me to talk wrecks—with the help of marine survey to him about this book. company MMT AB. Marine archaeologist

The artifacts found bear such strong evidence of long lost stories from the past. It is impossible not to be affected but what you see

MK: Now Carl, I think that this me saying it, I also think the book CD: Yes. Of course, all of those book is a true testament to the is a true testament to you guys, wrecks are not as interesting fact that sunken ships are time and to your dedication. And as the ones you will see in the capsules with great stories to tell. speaking of dedication, is it true book, but we have found a lot That is, if you have the patience that you managed to find over a of wrecks—and keep on find- and the skills to find both the hundred wrecks over the course ing them. The Baltic is such a wrecks and the stories, of course. of five years? treasure-trove of shipwrecks— With that said, if you don’t mind many tens of thousands of them,

47 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sweden according to the more careful another aspect emerges—that credit me for that. There are a lot CD: I really think that his images estimates, and most of them are is, to tell the stories so that those of interesting post- and pre- war are some of the best wreck pho- incredibly well-preserved. The lost will not be forgotten. This has facts in the book tied in with the tography ever. However, Jonas is thing that strikes most visitors is the become very important to us— most amazing underwater images a very private guy who prefers his preserved wood. In the Baltic, we that these forgotten stories be taken by Jonas Dahm. The pic- images to speak for themselves. do not have shipworm, so basi- told. tures speak volumes about the cally all wood is preserved. tragic cost of that era, and I can MK: Right. Okay, we will leave but once one starts to look into MK: Forgotten stories—there’s your honestly say that his images are it at that then. But I agree with the stories behind the wrecks, title for the next book! Be sure to spectacular! Who is this guy? you. Those are some world-class

Carl Douglas images. The clarity is astonish- found his calling ing. How do you manage that as an historian in such a sensitive environment? and cold water- I mean, one wrong move inside diver, but he one of those wrecks, and the vis- also has a soft ibility will be gone for a decade, side for warm right? What is the most difficult water-diving part of photography under these conditions? Seriously, what is the secret? The team acknowledge that not all CD: Obviously, the quality is the wrecks are as result of many factors. First, we photogenic as need to find wrecks that are the ones in the “photogenic” in an area of the book, but that sea where there is good visibility. doesn’t mean Then, I have to say that Jonas’ that they don’t sheer ability as a diver is also bring something very important. He goes every- significant to his- where inside wrecks. There is a tory and should be explored fur- reason you don’t see very many ther good images of engine-rooms! But Jonas does it. On many of the images, another factor is also important, and that is team- work—both for modelling and setting light. Since we have dived together now for about a decade, we know what we want to do. We talk a lot about what kind of images we like and how to create them. It’s a very creative environment in the group. i also think the environment we

48 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Sweden

The book is available in five languages

we have researched them for many years and really know the stories, such as the Route of Death wrecks (the Steuben, Goya and Wilhelm Gustloff), the WWI cruiser, Prinz Adalbert, and the Soviet WWII submarines. Others are more anonymous in the greater scheme of things, but are nonetheless fascinating to explore and to try to figure out their story. Some are

Team member Jonas dive in helps. and I have chosen the chapter based on Dahm rigging up The dark- that for our readers. Which chapter and ness in the what pictures are you most proud of and surroundings why? helps create the mysterious feeling CD: Difficult question. For me, there are in the images. Furthermore, the lack so many feelings associated with the text of colour helps to focus attention to and with every image. All the joy and all the overall shapes rather than the the hard work over the years. The images, details. All this brings forward the in particular, bring it all back. The images wreck itself. This is an effect that we from the Aachen are some of my favour- very much appreciate. ites as well. It is a fantastic wreck to dive as well—and that’s really my focus: the diving. MK: And so you should. Every dive on these wrecks is like crossing Enough buttering... I have a into another time. favourite wreck, Aachen, some wrecks have meaning because It is like time stood still. You almost expect someone to walk into the room any minute 49 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sweden

beautiful ships, some have wooden carv- passengers. However, nothing could guess we just wanted to take our div- visiting the wrecks; we try to figure them ings, some have nice interiors, some have have prepared us for the sight that we MK: To do something of this magnitude ing to another level—to see whether we out and try to get “inside” their stories. interesting engine-rooms, some have encountered on the seabed 75m/260 ft requires a lot of resources and commit- could. But it was also a gradual thing: we MK: Thank you so much for your time, details that somehow capture our inter- below. We had maybe 40m/130 ft vis- ment. I am assuming everyone works on started diving, then we started looking for and I hope our readers will enjoy this est and others are just attractive for rea- ibility, so when we came down in front their own time, juggling a day job and wrecks together, dove some more. Then, glimpse into the depth and the his- sons we don’t fully understand ourselves. of the bridge, we saw the whole bow- maybe a family? The logistics alone must we brought in the guys from MMT and tory of the Baltic Sea as much as we still, some of these wrecks manage to area of this beautiful old liner resting on be a nightmare! What prompted you really started looking, dove some more, do. The book is available in Russian, surprise us. One of my favourite dives was her port side. Very Titanic-like. There is a guys to do this project? then we said, “Hmmm, this could be a Finnish, Swedish, German and English. our first dive on the Steuben, the sum- particular stillness about shipwrecks that book.” For the other language versions, contact mer after we found her. We were really often belies the violence behind their CD: Yes, this is a project that is all about this creative process, while doing DeepSea.se. ■ charged up about diving this wreck, loss. Very true in this case. For me this was passion. Certainly not logic. We had something difficult and working together and to tell the story of the plight of her a magic moment. been diving together for a few years. I in a group, is really the key. We’re not just TOP: No matter how prepared the divers are before the dive, the sights still amaze them 50 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The sinking of the Prinz Adalbert made the headlines, telling the story of how only three of 675 travel crewmembers survived Sweden Lithuania. When the torpedo struck, chant marine suffered losses. To begin the reverberations of the resulting with, it was ships in the North Sea that explosion made it sound as though were blown up in the dense minefields, the entire sea had split apart. but soon her ships in the Baltic would The torpedo had struck the ship’s suffer losses as well. News reached magazine, and the vessel was Sweden in December 1914 that three torn in two. Parts large and small Swedish ships, the Everilda, the Luna and rained down from the sky, and an the Norra Sverige, had been blown up enormous pillar of smoke hundreds by mines north of Åbo. The ships had of metres high was the last of the tripped German mines, and 42 Swedish vessel to be seen. Of 675 crew- sailors were killed. members, only three survived. The the continued laying of minefields sinking of the Prinz Adalbert was was putting shipping increasingly at risk. the largest loss ever suffered by the Six months later the Swedish steamship German Baltic fleet at that point. Hermodia disappeared in the Sea of the freedom of movement of the Åland, followed in rapid succession by neutral countries at sea had been the Dutch ship Ceres and the Danish respected at the beginning of the vessel Ely. The conflict in the Baltic was

the alarm of the submarine commander, no attempt was made to ram her. The crews of the German ships were convinced that their col- league had sunk as a result of an EXCERPT FROM CHAPTER 3 OF: transport cargo while also serving as exploding mine and never THE FIRST WORLD WAR minesweepers. The submarine attacked detected the presence of —NEW WEAPONS FOR A NEW AGE the leading vessel and hit it with a tor- the E1. These events were pedo. The cargo hold immediately filled reported a few days later Text by Björn Hagberg with water, while the engine-room and in the Swedish newspaper Photos by Jonas Dahm the boiler also started to flood. Fifteen Gotlands Allehanda. Some minutes later the ship had sunk. of the wreckage had drifted GERMAN SETBACKS immediately after the attack, the sub- ashore: doors and parts of Both the German navy and its mer- marine turned up toward the second the telegraph cabin, bed- chant marine lost many vessels early on. vessel but was forced to dive too deep clothes, a mattress and a Some went down as a result of mines, at the decisive moment for launching lifebuoy bearing the legend while others were subject to submarine an attack, as the third boat was head- “Aachen-Bremen” – which attacks. ing straight at the submarine in what made it possible to identify on 30 July 1915, the captain of the seemed to be an obvious attempt to the ship. British submarine E1 sighted a convoy ram her. Regardless of the heavy seas, A much greater catastrophe in human war, but – as the war escalated – the largely over the trade in Sweden’s near the Latvian port of Libau. It con- the two vessels remaining in the con- terms would occur when the British sub- rules were tightened and the threat-level iron ore. Just as would be the case in sisted of three vessels that had been voy managed to save all but five of the marine E8 sank the German armoured increased. Only a few months after the the Second World War, Germany was specially equipped by the Germans to crew of the torpedoed vessel. Despite cruiser Prinz Adalbert off the coast of outbreak of the war, the Swedish mer- dependent on deliveries of iron from

51 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Submarine warfare in the Baltic was very successful and DC3 on a spy mission shot made a significant Sweden dent in the ship- down during the cold war ping of materials to the war-faring countries

Sweden. Protecting these vital imports became the main task of the German Baltic fleet. War in the Baltic escalated with an expansion of On June 13, 1952, a Swedish military DC-3 submarine warfare and the ongoing lay- German warships that had been carrying out signals intelligence gather- ing of minefields. The Allies attempted to laying mines in the Gulf of Finland ing operations over the Baltic Sea for the block all marine transports to and from had relayed its planned return Swedish National Defense Radio Estab- Germany, which responded by increas- route to its home base in Danzig. lishment, disappeared over international ing submarine attacks. The escalation of The telegram was intercepted by waters east of the island of Gotland. hostilities between the opposing blocs units of the Russian navy and the The USSR denied shooting down the DC-3, would pose an ever-greater threat to the hunt was soon in full cry. but a few days later, a life raft with Soviet shipping of the neutral countries. on the morning of 2 July, thick shell shrapnel was found in the area. In banks of fog were drifting across 1956, while meeting with the Swedish Prime THE ALBATROSS AFFAIR the Baltic. Onboard the German Minister Tage Erlander, Soviet leader Nikita The neutrality Gustav V, the Swedish king, mine-cruiser Albatross all was Khrushchev admitted that the Soviet Union had so solemnly guaranteed proved peace and quiet. On the bridge had shot down the the plane although that information was not released difficult to sustain. Violations became Karl Bühler, the ship’s second to the public at the time. both more frequent and more difficult to officer, had the watch and kept overlook. The war would even be carried in constant touch with the other In 1991, the out on Swedish territory in the summer of vessels in the German squadron. Soviet Air 1915. This event has come to be known All of a sudden, he spotted a Force publi- as the Albatross affair. A squadron of foreign vessel among the swirling cally ac- mists and the knowledged it next moment all had shot hell broke loose. down the DC- A couple of hun- 3. The dred metres from remains the Albatross, of the two shells struck downed the water, and DC-3 Bühler rapidly were realised that found they were sur- by a rounded by four Swedish hostile craft. company in the summer of 2003. Inspection revealed the Albatross bullet holes that proved the plane was shot made for the island of attackers into following them, away from barded the Albatross, one shot after down by a MiG-15 fighter. The exact time Gotland at top speed in their poorly armed and slower comrade. the other lacerating the German vessel. was also determined, as one of the clocks an attempt to seek the But their Russian attackers decided to fol- Some three thousand shells were fired, in the cockpit had stopped at 11:28:40 CET. safety of Swedish waters. low the Albatross instead. Four fast and and no one believed that the boat could The other German ships heavy Russian armoured cruisers against remain afloat. Water poured in through Link to official Swedish report chose a different tack one mine-laying cruiser – the outcome two huge holes, one in the stern and in the hope of luring the could not be in doubt. The Russians bom- one on the port side. Listing ever more

52 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sweden

The symbolism found in Jonas Dahm’s compositions is stunning

Swedish waters. both of violently, the Albatross could overturn at ed on the beaches of Gotland, the war would not in fact come which any moment. the local population flocked any closer than this, but vessels were vital early that morning the ship managed to see it. They were confronted continued to be lost and the dif- to the nevertheless to reach the Eastern coast by dreadful scenes. Dead and ficulties faced by the ships of the continu- of Gotland and sought shelter behind the wounded men lay everywhere, neutral countries would only get ation of little island of Östergarnsholm. Her Russian although the worst sight was of worse. The war at sea became hostilities. persecutors, however, refused to give shocked and bloodstained sail- more brutal, with the hostile coun- At the up and continued to bombard her. The ors wandering around the ship tries only occasionally respect- same lighthouse staff on the little outcrop was that had been shot to pieces. ing ships designated as neutral time, this forced to flee in haste as the shells flew That same evening, 26 crewmen while the minefields continued to trade was over their building. The Albatross could were buried in the cemetery on expand. a source no longer manoeuvre, and she was tak- Östergarn. The Swedish govern- sweden managed to remain out- of income for Sweden where many peo- ing in a great deal of water. The com- ment made a forceful protest to side the war and her neutrality was ple earned huge sums from the war. mander finally gave the order to use the its Russian counterpart. An apol- preserved, despite further violations. Despite the vessels that had been sunk, last dregs of power in the steam engine ogy came by return of post and But this was neutrality understood the iron ore transports had to be pre- to drive the boat up on to the beach. an explanation that has become in the most generous sense of the served at all costs, since they were far The shooting stopped for good then, and legion in Swedish-Russian rela- term. Sweden continued to deliver too profitable to stop. Those who had to the Russian vessels quickly left the area. tions – errors in navigation were iron ore to the Germans and timber pay the price would end up at the bot- With a German mine-boat now strand- the cause of the violation of to the British during the entire war, tom of the Baltic Sea.” ■ Stuck in time 53 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED the trip, in summer time in particular, or try an adventure or two, like a Seal Safari, kayaking or island hoping in the archipelago, or along the bridges down by the docks, maybe some lobster eating tasty crab, shrimp and lobsters, The West Coast is a very popular fishing. drinking lots of beer, eating more great summer time sea food and singing silly songs. Swedes destination among those divers who means hanging love to sing silly songs when they’ve had have no regard for the wrecks and out and partying a few. sparse marine life of the Baltic Sea. with the Swedes the further north you go, the more And the contrast stands out—the in eclectic hole-in- diverse diving you get. There are lots the-wall restaurants of small picturesque coastal villages West Coast is teeming with life.

Text by Millis Keegan Photos by Stein Johnsen

What can one expect to find among the 8,000-island archipelago and the fiords is a rocky underwater landscape with seaweed swaying in crevices, lobster, variety of crabs, variety of sea anemones, star- fishes, cod, coalfish, mackerel, flatfish and eel. One can also find jellyfish, Dead Man’s Hand, some sharks—if you are lucky and in the right place at the right time. The same goes for octopus. The variety is there. there is more to the West Coast than diving. The landscape alone is worth

The West Coast CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Mouth of anemone; Arms of anemone; Detail of soft corals; Wolf eel; Delicate fronds of soft coral with tunicates; Grouper (inset); Serene Västkusten scene on the West Coast of Sweden 54 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Traditional little red huts dot the coastline of the West travel Coast of Sweden Sweden

ecologically unique fiord of Gullmarn. days. Walk along the bridge, shop, eat, Diving tourism as well as a High School drink and chill. That’s what you do here. teaching special programs in marine biology has developed in this area of Väderöarna very beautiful red granite cliffs. Learn Direct translation of its name is “The more about what you can expect to Weather Islands”, which is an appropri- find in the fiord by visiting Havets Hus, ate name. The islands are located in “the House of the Ocean”. the outer band of the archipelago and www.havetshus.lysekil.se quite exposed to the weather. They are a very popular must-dive site. The Kungshamn/Smögen islands are home to a large seal colony. For after-dive activity in Smögen, the The seals sometimes spend time playing one and only place to hang out in is on pecka-boo with divers. the Smögen Bridge. One end starts at the fish hall and runs a kilometer long on The Koster Fjord/Kosterhavet the south side of the old fishing dock, Marine National Park but don’t expect any early fish auctions A coldwater coral reef was found not any more. That is done by Internet these too long ago in the Koster Fjord. The

and towns where you can dive and enjoy life. Marstrand, Lysekil, Kungshamn/Smögen, Tanumstrand, Grebbestad and Strömstad are all great places to find a dive center. Pick your location or three. Every place has it’s own charm. The reason is because the Gulf Stream makes a little turn here and hit a little bit of Sweden. The mixing of cold and warm water creates excellent conditions for any marine life. Don’t miss Väderöarna; It is often said to as having the best diving the West Coast can offer. Lysekil Is a very small, but interesting, community that has grown around the

Diver inspects large anemone on rocky landscape under the waves (above); mathias corvallo Sea pens sway in the current (left) 55 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Electric blue flashes from the patterned scales of Sweden travel a cuckoo wrasse (Labrus bimaculatus); Close-ups of anemones (right and below center)

We found this fantastic video of Kosterhavet Marine National Park by Knut Bergsten, including Väderöarna. Scroll down to “Missing Summer”at: www. explorewestsweden.com Kullen, South Sweden The best dive site for marine life in the south is Kullen. Kullen is a very distinct peninsula with a rocky, craggy shore that continues under water. Currents bring nutri- ents to the marine life that thrives here, particularly during summer and autumn. Expect to find shore

deepwater coral Lophelia per- found only in this area, such tusa was a remarkable find, as the firework anemone which earned the fjord the sta- Pachycerianthus multi- tus of becoming Sweden’s first plicatuss, the pink shrimp Marine National Park. Well, that, Pandalus borealis, the sea plus there are 200 unique species cucumber Parastichopus

tremulus, the northern stone crab crabs, hermit crabs, jellyfish, Lithodes maja, and a couple of dead mans hand, lots of rare sharks (Velvet Belly Shark flounders, and on a good and Greenland Shark). More day, sea trout, cod, mullets information on Kosterhavet.se. and more. ■

Kayaking can be enjoyed Close-up of a scallop on the West Coast after a with its many eyes good day of diving 56 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED LEFT: Hallristningar symbols are pre- runic symbols Kiruna found in rock Norwegian carvings in Sea Arctic Circle fact file Sweden. Sweden RIGHT: Location of Sweden on global map FAR RIGHT: NORWAY Umeå Map of source: cia.gov world factbook Sweden Scuba-doc.com

Sundsvall History During the 17th century, mountains in the west. Lowest Environmental Protocol, Antarctic- Exchange rates: Gulf of Sweden was a military power. point: reclaimed bay of Lake Marine Living Resources, Antarctic 1EUR=9.62SEK; Bathnia However, for two centuries, the Hammarsjon, near Kristianstad Treaty, Biodiversity, Climate 1USD=7.21SEK; from F IN LA N D Gävle Åland nation has not been involved in -2.4m. Highest point: Kebnekaise Change, Climate Change- 1GBP=11.05SEK; agri- Islands any wars. Sweden managed to 2,111m. Coastline: 3,218 km. Note: Kyoto Protocol, Desertification, 1AUD=6.65SEK; culture. Uppsala preserve armed neutrality during Sweden has a strategic location Endangered Species, Environ- 1SGD=5.26SEK Sweden sus- Karlstad both World Wars. In the 1990s, along Danish Straits linking Baltic mental Modification, Hazardous tained economic STOCKHOLM Sweden’s long-successful eco- and North Seas. Wastes, Law of the Sea, Marine Economy Under a mixed sys- growth, encouraged by strong Örebro nomic formula of a capitalist sys- Dumping, Ozone Layer Protection, tem of high-tech capitalism and exports and increased domes- Linköping Oxelösund tem interlarded with substantial Climate is temperate in the Ship Pollution, Tropical Timber comprehensive welfare benefits, tic demand, until 2008. A reform Göteborg welfare elements was challenged south with cold, cloudy winters 83, Tropical Timber 94, Wetlands, Sweden has achieved an envi- program aimed at increasing Borås Gotland by high unemployment and eco- and cool, partly cloudy summers. Whaling. able standard of living, aided by employment, reducing welfare Kalmar LAT. nomic downturns in 2000-02 and Sweden has subarctic climate in peace and neutrality for all of the dependence, and streamlining Öland 2009. Over the past several years, the north. Natural hazards: ice Population 9,059,651 (July 20th century. The nation benefits the state’s role in the economy Helsingborg fiscal discipline has allowed the floes in the surrounding waters, 2009 est.) Ethnic groups: indig- from a modern distribution system was implimented by the govern- Kristianstad Baltic LITH. country to get through economic particularly in the Gulf of Bothnia, enous population: Swedes; Finnish and excellent external and inter- ment. Even with robust finances DEN. Malmö Sea Bornholm fluctuations. In 1995, Sweden which can interfere with maritime and Sami minorities; foreign- nal communications as well as a and underlying fundamentals, RUS. joined the EU, but its people traffic. born or first-generation immi- skilled labor force. In September the Swedish economy fell into rejected the introduction of grants including Finns, Yugoslavs, 2003, Swedish citizens rejected recession in late 2008 with growth Hyperbaric Chamber the euro in a 2003 referendum. Environmental issues Acid Danes, Norwegians, Greeks, Turks. entry into the euro system due continuing to slow with the global Karolinska sjukhuset (Stockholm) Government: constitutional mon- rain damages soils and lakes and Religions: Lutheran 87%, other reli- to concern about the impact of economic downturn. Industry: 08-517 700 00 archy. Capital: Stockholm. pollution is a problem in the North gions including Roman Catholic, the move on sovereignty and the iron, steel, precision equipment, Karlskrona lasarett 0455-731000 Sea and the Baltic Sea. Sweden Orthodox, Baptist, Muslim, Jewish, economy, which leans heavily on wood pulp, paper products, pro- Geography Sweden is located is party to agreements includ- and Buddhist 13%. Internet users: foreign trade in primarily timber, cessed foods, motor vehicles. Websites in Northern Europe and borders ing: Air Pollution, Air Pollution- 8.1 million (2008) hydropower, and iron ore. Ninety Agriculture: barley, wheat, sugar Sweden Tourism the Baltic Sea, the Gulf of Bothnia, Nitrogen Oxides, Air Pollution- percent of industrial output is pro- beets, meat, milk. Natural resourc- www.visitsweden.com/sweden ■ Kattegat and Skagerrak, and lays Persistent Organic Pollutants, Air Language Swedish, small num- duced by privately owned firms es: iron ore, copper, lead, zinc, between Finland and Norway. Pollution-Sulfur 85, Air Pollution- bers speak Sami- and Finnish half of which are from the engi- gold, silver, tungsten, uranium, Panaramic view from Terrain is composed mostly of Sulfur 94, Air Pollution-Volatile neering sector. Only one percent arsenic, feldspar, timber, hydro- the peak of the highest flat or gently rolling lowlands with Organic Compounds, Antarctic- Currency Swedish kronor (SEK) of GDP and employment comes power. mountain in Sweden, Kebnekaise

57 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED whale tales One of the newly designated species preys on seals in the Antarctic while another eats fish Edited by Peter Symes Several new species of orca

Tissue samples from 139 DNA chondria from a worldwide sam- Related studies led by Andy Foote Some skeletons were hundreds of mals, such as small dolphins and killer whales collected His team sequenced the DNA ple of killer whales, we were able from the University of Aberdeen, years old while other samples died whales, had virtually no tooth from the whales’ mitochondria, to see clear differences among show that there are two distinct in 2008. The length of each whale wear. from around the world a part of the cell that holds just a the species.” The team looked at species of killer whales in the wa- and whether their teeth had been confirm a theory scientists portion of the DNA. Mitochondrial orcas living in seven ecological ters around Britain. Samples were worn down were also noted in the NOAA has designated a popula- have had for years. Orcas, DNA is passed down with very few niches around the world identify- taken from 62 killer whale skeletons study. In the wild, killer whales that tion of killer whales that lives in the commonly known as killer changes from mother to offspring. ing each group as an ecotype. kept at sites including the Natural eat herring and mackerel display Pacific off the coast of Washing- New sequencing methods finally History Museum in London and the tooth wear while those that ton state as endangered. whales comprise several made it possible to do so, Dr Morin At least three species the National Museum of Scotland are thought to eat marine mam- different and distinct spe- said in a statement. On the basis of ecotype behavior cies. and the new DNA data, the two “The genetic make-up of mito- Antarctic orca groups that eat Specialization in diet and hunting chondria in killer whales, like other seals and fish should be recog- tactics along with differences in cetaceans, changes very little nized as distinct species, as should markings led marine biologists to over time, which makes it difficult the North Pacific transients, Dr. suppose that they might be look- to detect any differentiation in Morin’s group concluded in a ing at different orca species in- recently evolved species without report published this month by stead of a single population. looking at the entire genome,” he Genome Research. The other One of the newly designated spe- said. ecotypes should be regarded as cies preys on seals in the Antarctic “But by using a relatively new subspecies pend- while another eats fish, said Phillip method called highly ing further data, Morin of the US National Oceanic parallel sequencing they said. and Atmospheric Administration’s to map the entire (NOAA) South-west Fisheries Sci- genome of ence Centre in La Jolla, California, the cell’s who led the research. mito-

Dying Struggles of the Spermaceti Whale. Image Date1837 58 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Dive into Read an unsolved mystery the gender gap Robert Apuzzo has provided a real service for historians, wreck media divers and media junkies by pulling together The Endless Readers with interests in the scientific aspects Search for the HMS Hussar, a 154-page soft cover from R&L of diving have a must-get book to put on Publishing. The British Revolutionary War ship sank on 23 their shelves in Women and Pressure: Diving November 1780, after striking a rock in a current-raked nar- and Altitude from Best Publishing Company. row stretch of water known as Hell’s Gate, point & click In the 400-page hardcover, Caroline E. where New York’s East River connects on bold links Fife and Marguerite St. Leger Dowse with Long Island Sound. It carried scores assemble articles on the similarities of shackled American prisoners to their and differences between men and deaths and, rumor holds, a fortune in women working in hyperbaric condi- gold and silver to pay British troops in tions. It grew out of a 1986 Undersea Rhode Island. Apuzzo, an amateur This Media page is brought to you by and Hyperbaric Medicine Workshop archeologist and a New York history Book Log compiled by Robert Sterner chaired by Fife’s husband William, who buff, collected articles dating from of Sterner Editorial Services. Read earlier died in 2008 and to whom the authors 1780 through 1985 from local news- Book Log reviews by genre or call atten- dedicated their work. Its 27 chapters are papers and magazines about the tion to books and videos to review at divided into sections on decompression Hussar, its wreck and many of the www.sternereditorial.com illness, human factors and the workplace. attempts to find the ship to salvage its Chapters are articles written by scientists rumored treasure. The articles provide with expertise in their various fields such as glimpses of the people and society pathology of DCI, physiology of cold-water diving, health in their day. Since they’re reprinted standards, combat pilots or underwater archeology. Each verbatim, the articles also show A book to treasure author supports the findings with data from studies, often fluctuations in spelling and phrasing Captain Daniel Berg has developed a presented in tables and graphs, and heavily footnoted that occurred as the King’s English handy guide to help divers and non-div- sources of information. Many end with a summary or a list evolved into an American language ers find more fun and valuables in and of key points that identify what is known, and often more in the United States. Woodcuts and around the water. Beach and Water intriguing, what has yet to be learned about the topic. historic black and white photos Treasure Hunting With Metal Detectors Profiles of pioneering women and a comprehensive index illustrate the text. The gear images from Berg’s Aqua Explorers publica- that eases cross-referencing topics close the book. Fife is a especially instill an appreciation for modern scuba tions is a slim soft cover. Yet, its 68 consultant to NASA’s Johnson Space Center Neutral Buoyancy Lab kits. Despite attempts by hundreds of amateur and pages cover anything a neophyte and an advisor for Divers Alert Network. St. Leger Dowse is a mainstay commercial salvors, no one has yet to find the jack- needs to know to get started look- in England’s Diving Diseases Research Center and is the only person pot if indeed there is one, so the final chapter of this ing for treasures at beaches and to twice receive British Sub Aqua Club’s Duke of Edinburgh prize. mystery has yet to be written. ISBN: 978-0-9629913-2- at depth. It starts with descrip- ISBN: 978-1-930536-54-8. www.bestpub.com 5. E-mail the author at [email protected]. tions of the various detectors’ features, explaining which are useful where. He then suggests techniques that could improve Relax to a view of Death’s Door the odds of returning from an outing with valuables instead Thanks to Great Lakes historians, Cris Kohl their only chance for survival. Many didn’t make it and now of bottle caps and very his- and Joan Forsberg, wreck divers can get a make the region a prime destination for diving. About one- toric pop-top aluminum can sense of visiting Lake Michigan’s best sites third of the time is spent underwater with images by the openers. The book is illus- by popping Shipwrecks at Death’s Door into authors as well as Kim Brungraber, a local diver and author. trated throughout with gem-studded the DVD player. The 45-minute video draws Kohl and Forsberg alternate narrating the video adding vari- rings, coins that are hundreds of years old and other its name from the series of islands and shoals ety to the presentation, which is so packed with facts and artifacts, many recovered by his hunting buddy and interspersed with deep water that form pas- anecdotes that it must be viewed several times to catch its fellow diver Mike McMeekin. The only thing lacking sages into Green Bay, Wisconsin, USA. Opening content. Their stories of the ships and the people who sailed is an index, but it’s hardly needed because of the shots from the deck of a ferry making way in them add warmth to the tragedies that happened on cold good organization of the chapters. This is the most rough seas through a snowy late-fall gale seas. They also call attention to the many museums, pubs recent in a line of diving books that are available give viewers a sense of the fury captains face and quaint towns to visit during surface intervals. The DVD is in many dive shops or on-line as eBooks or PDF when the inland freshwater ocean turns ugly. a companion to their newly released book of the same title, downloads. ISBN: 978-0-557-14768-7 Threading their vessels through the passages which will be reviewed in an upcoming Book Log column. www.aquaexplorers.com into the relative calm of Green Bay offered No ISBN. www.seawolfcommunications.com

59 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED tech talk Hot or not? How far have we come?

Today’s modern wetsuit embodies technology that benefits divers with an abundant choice of options to fit most any size and shape of diver, and any style of diving activities from mild tropical to very cold water.

Birth of the wetsuit guishing marks of the scuba diver, Text by Wayne Fenior Would you consider building along with our other gear like tanks, your own wetsuit straight masks, and fins. But even as we’ve from raw materials? It seen remarkable development over hasn’t been that long back the 50-plus years of our sport, the in diving history when this underlying principles remain the option was widely utilized by same when considering the modern divers trying either to save a wetsuit: it must isolate and insulate. little cash, or to get a closer the materials have evolved custom fit. The materials and dramatically over time along with Waterproof’s patterns were available from numerous styles and options availa- new W1 suits are several dive suppliers. Fortu- ble to the diver. But still the principle a good example nately, the choices now remains that if a suit fits poorly, even of how far con- are better than ever for though constructed of the warmest temporary wet- choosing your next and latest high tech materials, the suit design has perfect wetsuit. diver will still get cold because of come Today’s modern water flush (constantly needing to wetsuit embod- re-heat the water entering or slosh- ies technology ing around in the suit). The suit that that benefits is meant to provide protection from divers the elements is allowing the ele- with an ments to flood in next to the diver’s abundant skin with every twist and turn of the choice of body and fin kick. options to fit most any Poly... erh!? size and Polychloroprine, invented by Du- shape of Pont scientists in 1930 and originally diver, and called Duprene, was the first mass any style produced synthetic rubber; and of diving eventually branded as Neoprene. activities In its raw unmodified form, its from mild characteristics and insulating prop- tropical to erties are very similar to rubber—the

W a te r p oo f reasonably same substance earliest wetsuits cold wa- were constructed from. By foam- ter. ing the base polymer with nitrogen Flashback to 1971 and magazine advertisements of the gas bubbles, the insulation proper- day. Building your own wetsuit straight from raw materi- Wetsuits ties greatly improve. Since the early als was commonplace among divers trying either to have long 1970’s, what we now know as neo- save a little cash, or to get a closer custom fit been one prene has completely replaced rub- of the distin- ber for the suits we wear today.

60 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Waterproof Stretch panel on a modern Full stretch suit New materials in the last few years Wetsuits have given the diver the benefit of “full stretch” neoprene suits, which have span- dex added to the material that is able to more closely fit the diver’s body. But a possible liability of these new “super stretch suits” is the temptation for the manufacturer to utilize the materials as a quick fix for poor design. Remember also that as a suit needs to stretch to fit over problem fit areas, the insulation proper- ties become less effective, as the suit becomes thinner. Another potentially dangerous problem that can occur as a diver squishes him- or her- self into a suit that is just a bit tight is increased resistance effort in breathing underwater, as the wetsuit constricts the diver’s potential lung volume (remember your first instructor taught you to breathe slightly slower and deeper underwater from a regulator).

If you will be in the water for extended periods or if your activity level is going to be low, opt for the heavier suit

from morning to afternoon can be seen because of a thermocline that moved over the area. For safety sake, the diver should opt for more insulation, as you can always vent or flush the suit. Mediums Medium weight wetsuits are generally constructed with five millimeters of neoprene. Options Whenever diving in The lightweights for your style of diving include two- At the lightest end, one and two millim- piece suits with farmer John/Jane the ocean, I always eter suits are available for the warmest bottoms and jacket style uppers that recommend my tropical waters, and shorties (short sleeves combine to give you two layers of in- and shorts), for the most tepid conditions. sulation on your torso, in addition to the students wear full These lightweight suits are effective above now traditional one piece suits. suits for their pro- 27°C (80°F). Whenever diving in the ocean, I always recommend my students The 7mm tection benefits from wear full suits for their protection benefits For cold water below 21°C (70°F), 7mm scrapes and things from scrapes and things that may sting if neoprene will be necessary for all but the that may sting if they get careless. most active divers. It is in this category if you will be in the water for extended of suits where the manufacturers have they get careless. periods, or if your activity level is going the most opportunity for innovation. In to be low, opt for the heavier suit. Where addition to one-piece suits, be sure to and when thermoclines are possible, opt James Bond in Thunderball for the heavier suit! Even in my native (1965) made wetsuits look sunny Florida on the same dive site One or two pieces? Advertisement for hot... or not? the same day, a dramatic difference Collins & Chambers from October 1969

61 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED “Semidry!?” What about the kids? tech talk For the sake of both safety Wetsuits Great care needs to and comfort, the diver be taken to as- should opt for more insula- sure that the into one of the four main offered siz- same tion, as one can always vent es, but chances are that your body guide- type may require more specializa- lines or flush the suit. tion. The premier companies offer- utilized ing exposure solutions will typically for adults explore your options with two- offer more options for the close fit are af- piece suits and extra thermal (up to 20 or more different sizes). This forded insulation layering. increases the chance that you will even more attention when outfitting For the coldest tempera- get “your custom tailored fit” with- children for scuba Warm tures, explore the semi-dry out the need to offer a custom built diving and other enough? suits, which only allow a suit in your size (less wait for your size

water sports. With I Q- C o m p a n y small quantity of water and a substantial savings in cost to close fit being the to enter the suit. Do your the diver). ultimate goal, homework and shop well remember that our

for this purchase, with your S e a c Su b What are the layering options? You little people will priority of properly fitting can expect to extend your diving lose critical body Semi-dry is a bit if a euphemism for “less-wet”. heat even faster suit as your ultimate goal. These suits come with snugly-fitting seals at the season with optional vests, hoods, hooded vests, and even step-in than adults, and if wrists, neck and ankles, the purpose of which is to your water ba- The usual evolution prevent water from leaving the suit as the wearer hooded vests. If the suit fits properly, bies are typical, Most divers enjoying our sport moves around. This does not mean that the suit is the option of additional layering will having extreme today go through a metamor- water-tight. The wearer does indeed get wet in insulate the water trapped in the fun in the water phosis in their thinking and shop- a semi-dry suit, but the water that enters is soon suit from external cooling. will prevent them ping patterns from when they warmed up and does not leave the suit readily, from looking for select their original exposure suit so the wearer remains warm. Any residual water Warranty? an exit long after most adults to when they vow to never again circulation past the seals still causes heat loss. But Typically, the companies special- have reached their cold threshold. Be prepared to make the mistake of “buying semi-dry suits are cheap and simple compared izing in wetsuits will have longer try multiple manufacturers’ suits, looking for proper to dry suits. These suits are usually also made from fit with no lose bagging along with the proper seals the cheapest to save money”. thicker grades of Neoprene. warranties on materials But the diver who has learned and workmanship. found on adult suits. The investment will keep your kids happier and safer as they enjoy the sport. the cold lesson that a quality suit does indeed make a differ- of gear have branded suits to go along What is the con- ence in how comfortable they with their masks, fins, and regulators, and struction of the suit? will be underwater, still may the lion’s share of divers are proud to wear Usually, a heavier suit will ly—fine for tropical diving, but a problem not know the questions to ask a wetsuit emblazoned with their favorite be glued and stitched to whenever your diving day requires long when choosing their next suit. manufacturer’s logo. But problems be- prevent water from en- periods in the water. This article will help you know gin when divers are forced to choose tering the construc- what to look for along with between only four common sizes tion seams. Lighter Is the suit anatomically correct versus a flat the proper questions to ask frequently offered (small, medium, suits (i.e. 1-3mm) pattern? your local dive retailer, as large and XL in women’s or men’s). are stitched on- The companies devoted to specializing in you prepare to shop for that Remember, functionally, the suit new suit! isolates and insulates. If the iso- lation fails because of improper Ask the diveshop fitting, nearly no amount of insula- A neutrally bouyant suit = less lead Is this a company special- tion will occur as water continues Fourth Element’s Thermocline neutrally buoyant system represented izing in wetsuits? There is to pour fresh into the suit. an evolution in thermal protection, using state of the art materials to more to this question than maximize performance without compromising on comfort. The Ther-

S c u b a p r o the apparent answer. Most What sizes are offered? mocline neutrally buoyant wetsuit system is comprised of the long- (if not all) major suppliers You may be lucky enough to fit sleeved top and the “explorer” and offers the equivalent protection of a 3mm wetsuit but weighing less than 1kg (2.2 lbs). Thermocline also provides a real solution for people who suffer from neoprene allergies by eliminating contact between the skin and the wetsuit. El e m ent Fo ur th 62 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Wetsuits

exposure suits offer their large variety of sizes based on an anatomical three-dimensional fit. When the suit fits correctly, there is very little (if any) slack areas where body mass fails to fill out the suit. These slack areas invite larger quantities of water to collect and slosh around in the suit, drawing more body heat and energy from the diver. See your local retailer It seems easy enough and tempting just to surf the internet hunting for the best price and the nicest looking suit. What the diver is missing out on is the expertise gained typically over many years as a dive professional. Your retailer should ask you revealing questions that will help to find the right suit for Is the suit your expected style of three-dimen- diving.

W a te r p oo f sional or just made up of What type of diving flat panels? are you buying the suit for? The once in a lifetime trip to the Gala- pagos is no place Slack areas infor a 3mm wetsuit. vite larger quan- Which brands have you worn previous- tities of water to ly, and were there collect and slosh any challenges around in the with fit, flush or seepage? suit, drawing Sizing charts more body heat from manufacturers and energy from are the diver.

Do your homework Reflective linings and shop well for this Australian manufacturer Radiator led the purchase, with your way in developing mulitlayered wetsuits. priority of properly fit- The Radiator suits combines four layers one of which is a reflective titanium coat- ting suit as your ulti- ing that acts as a highly efficient barrier to mate goal. the outside cold. www.radiator.net Sym es P ete r

63 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Sym es Sun and salt takes it toll. P ete r tech talk Rinse well while your are out and hang to Stats from our survey dry in a cool, airy and shaded place when Some interesting facts about your you get home fellow divers wetsuit usage:

● What percentage of your dives in the past two years were made without a wetsuit? helpful for finding your best fitting size, I have certain associates that are in the but they are only a guideline. Your retail- water nearly every day with students, Only 3% answering said none, er should help you in the fitting process and they regularly will run their wetsuits with an overwhelming 52% an- to insure that your new wetsuit will fit well, through the washing machine on the swering 90-100% of the time. so that you can stay warm. gentle cycle with cold water and a mild detergent. Suit life is greatly extended by ● What are the water tempera- Care this practice, they have reported. Wet- tures in which you conduct most Neoprene will eventually fail as the ma- suits should then be stored hanging loose of your dives? terial breaks down and nitrogen bubbles to prevent crushing of the neoprene, in a in the materials are crushed, broken and dry cool place guarded from sunlight. Above 25°C/77°F for 30% of the diminished. Rinsing your suit in fresh water majority, then diminishing with the after usage and drying out of the sun will Wetsuit hygiene water temp colder. keep the suit newer for a longer period A topic typically untouched by a lot of of time. instructors is wetsuit hygiene, or more specifically the sound advice of not Many thanks urinating in your wetsuit. A lot of divers to everyone who will argue the point, but remember one participated in our of the functions of the suit is to isolate. online survey and As a good parent, I hope you wouldn’t helped us prepare let your child sit for hours in a wet this article. diaper, and it goes without saying, that I have seen what appears to Is your favored be diaper rash on a few divers in brand a com- ● What pieces of thermal protec- my day. The practice of more pany specializ- tion do you own? and more dive centers today ing in wetsuits? is the option not to rent wet- The highest percentage was the suits because of health issues. 3mm one-piece suit, with 61% For those still wishing to rent, of the respondents owning this the vehicle rental practice is suit. In second place was the certainly worth considering: “An 3mm shorty at 45%, and the least accident is as good as a sale.” ■ popular was the 5mm two-piece.

● What are the most and least important criteria you use in choos- As a good parent, I hope ing a suit?

you wouldn’t let your child 35% responded that price was sit for hours in a wet diaper, most important; 25% said that and it goes without saying, their instructors opinion was least important; 26% said a friend’s that I have seen what ap- opinion was least important. Fit pears to be diaper rash on a was overwhelmingly the strongest criteria for choosing a suit by 79% few divers in my day. of the respondents. ■

64 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Camaro Seamless Pronomic Some of the Camaro’s seamless suit is hailed as a world’s first thanks to a patented seamless bonding technology. The Hydronomic Series is the first Seamless generation and has been completely redesigned. The seamless bonding The latest & coolest technology used with highly flexible material has created a suit Some two months prior to going with a high degree of comfort and freedom of movement. to press, we wrote all known Scubapro’s advanced, extra-comfortable The suit comes with a double collar, a release-zip and a manufacturers of wetsuits asking Scubapro EverFlex line has been stylishly redesigned G-Lock Zipper at the back. The 7 and 5mm them to supply us with informa- for an even better fit and freedom. The new suits are equipped with double tion and images on the latest EverFlex neoprene steamers are now in a pre- cuffs and zips on arms and models. Some did, others didn’t Everflex formed dimensional shape, so it fits and moves legs. The 3mm version is more naturally with your body and delivers unparalleled com- equipped water flap fort, stretch and flexibility. Scubapro also added heliospan on arms and legs lining in the torso area of the steamers, for added protec- for warm water. tion and insulation. EverFlex provides excellent fit for a wide camaro.at range of people. If you are tired of the struggle to get into your suit, EverFlex is for you. www.scubapro.com SeacSub SkinFlex “300% stretch,” boasts the Italian manufacturer. In a dynamic and continually changing world, here is the new frontier of wetsuits: “Hyper Flex” Neoprene with a new generation, ultra-elas- tic lining that stretches up to 300% and the water- resistant Silver Seal Titex zipper that allows high performance plus great fit Bare and comfort. Elastek Outer lining: Hyper Flex Inner lining: Fine Plush The Bare Elastek 5mm Zipper: Super Seal Titex is a double glued full- Wrists and ankles: stretch suit with high-end Glide Skin Hood: features and anatomi- Integrated in the vest cally correct pattern for and with the “Air three-dimensional fit Draining” system throughout. Features a seacsub.com heavy-duty, color coordinated, G-lock back zipper with stainless steel slider, skin-to-skin internal sealing zipper flap and embossed inner elbow flex panels. barescubadiving.com

65 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Fourth Element Proteus

Ideal for use in temperate to warm waters, this versa- tile dive wetsuit can also be combined with the Short John wetsuit extending its use into cooler conditions. With superstretch neoprene on the arms and legs where mobility is required and thermocore compres- sion resistant neoprene on the body core panels, the 5mm Proteus offers outstanding thermal protection and comfort with excellent ease of movement. Available in 3mm, 5mm and 7mm. fourthelement.com

IQ Cressi Comfort Lontra

flex New version The Smoothskin of the Lontra is laminated on wetsuit, made one side and entirely from has a closed 7mm Ultraspan rubber surface neoprene, which is on the other exceptionally sup- side. The smooth ple and soft. It is lined surface seals well with Helioflex, a mate- with the skin and rial that has excellent prevents the intru- thermal characteristics. sion of water. An Produced in two versions: additional zip- one for men (Lontra Man) per at the collar and one for women (Lontra provides addi- Lady), this is a modular wetsuit that tional wearing includes an all-in-one jacket and comfort. Under hood, which can be purchased sep- water, the throat is arately. www.cressi.com usually streched due to the lying position, so the collar of wetsuits is tailored more tightly as to avoid water intruding. Waterproof W2 But on the surface, with a W2 is Waterproof’s new back-zip more natural position of wetsuit. After all the excite- the head, the collar feels ment created by the W1 front-zip suit, the W2 had to exceed this suit, so the task set for restricting. This is where the design team was challenging. The result, W2 available in two versions—5mm and the neck zipper comes 7mm—surpassed expectations. W2 features include anatomical gender-specific in; Open the zipper and design, comfort front neck zipper, inner plush lining and a moulded rubber breathe more easily. kneepad featuring a “hinge” effect. For further W2 suit and W2 icevest fea- iq-company.com tures and product information, please visit: www.waterproof.eu

66 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED “The thing with diving is that it can really bite Underwater you, and I soon discovered I Mike Cinematographer wanted to share this new world with as many people as possible. The obvious Valentine answer for me You wonder, sometimes, how things link up. For example, how is a was to start mak- scuba diving suit connected to the likes of household names such ing underwater as Dr Who, Casino Royale, Trainspotting, Star Wars Episode I: The films, so I stole Phantom Menace, Basic Instinct II, Atonement and the latest Ridley a friend’s cam- Scott/Russell Crowe epic, Robin Hood? Whilst on paper there’s not era for a couple an obvious association, I know I’ll find the answer waiting for me in a small Chelsea café. A large gregarious Welshman, fizzing with of weeks, one energy, is talking in an animated fashion on a mobile. He is the which had been renowned and much respected underwater cinematographer, used by Cousteau Mike Valentine. on some of his underwater doc- Interview by Roz Lund for US$20’. It was the best 20 bucks I have Photos courtesy of Mike Valentine ever spent. I was instantly hooked. So, as umentaries, and soon as I got back to the UK, I joined the off I went.” It’s been more than 20 years since United London Hospital Diving Group—a film director, Nicolas Roeg, gave local BSAC (British Sub Aqua Club)—and Mike Valentine his first break filming learnt to dive. The thing with diving is that Oliver Reed and Amanda Donohoe in it can really bite you, and I soon discov- Castaway. “I was in the Seychelles for ered I wanted to share this new world almost two months, shooting and direct- with as many people as possible. The ing all the underwater sequences from obvious answer for me was to start mak- a script that contained only two lines of ing underwater films, so I stole a friend’s description. The result was more than six camera for a couple of weeks, one minutes of screen time, something I still which had been used by Cousteau on feel lucky to have achieved at that time” some of his underwater documentaries, Valentine grinned. This achievement was and off I went.” remarkable because Valentine had just eventually, armed with Silent World, given up his “safe” day job as a senior Valentine knocked on the door of BBC sound technician with the BBC to work as Acquisitions and showed them his 6.5 a freelance underwater cameraman. minute Red Sea mini epic. After shooting “I found it ironic that my first profes- another ten films, he was given an offer sional job was in the Seychelles, because he couldn’t refuse, to take his underwa- this was where I first experienced scuba. ter expertise to the Seychelles to work on In 1977, during a holiday there, I noticed Castaway. a sign saying ‘Visit the Underwater World “Diving is an incredible sport, and

67 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED We’re now working with Ridley profile Scott on something that I dearly love. you do when you get to work that responsible for achieving the Diving is just the means his ver- When it comes to work, the diving counts. In this day and age, it’s artistic and technical decisions sion of I do is completely different. I’ve never been easier for someone related to the image). of getting to work. I dive the Robin often noticed that recreational to pick up a video camera and whilst other people catch Hood divers think that they can get shoot underwater and call them- What matters a train. It’s what you do story star- into the film or television industry selves a director of photography “At the end of the day, whilst ing Russell because they dive. It’s not quite or a camera operator.” said you can use technology to help when you get to work Crowe that simple. Valentine. (A director of photog- achieve an improbable shot, the that counts. “Diving is just the means of get- raphy, or cinematographer, is the one thing you can’t buy, skip or ting to work. I dive whilst other chief of the camera and lighting fast forward, is experience. This people catch a train. It’s what crews on a film, and therefore is such an important thing, and

good production teams know and appreciate that in the long run—having experienced personnel will save them money. It’s not uncommon for me to have a meeting with the producer during pre-production and for them to remark that, “We’ve storyboard- ed the sequence, but we don’t know how to shoot it, and we don’t think it will work. “Therefore, experience is an invaluable tool in my job. I not only have to work out how we will physically achieve the image desired, I have other major con- siderations, too, such as ensuring we stay within budget and times- cales, logistics, and most impor- tantly, actor and crew safety. After working on over 80 features, I can still say that every day we go to work is still fun, because I feel that we are still unlocking the door of the underwater world “At the end of the the cable wrangler and sharing its beauty with as side and underwa- and the safety div- many people as possible,” said ter. As you know, day whilst you can ers. It’s imperative Valentine. on the surface is use technology to help for a safe and suc- Françoise, the under- cessful shoot that “We” water co-ordinator. achieve an improb- everyone is relaxed, “I say ‘we’ and I do mean, We. Her job is mentally able shot, the one understands, and I could not achieve what I do stressful, as she has is happy, mentally on my own. I am part of a very to deliver the shot thing you can’t buy, and physically, with strong team, and it’s the only list. This means that skip or fast forward, what is about to way we could do what we do she will talk through take place. When successfully. You’ve watched and rehearse every is experience.” you look back at us work, Roz, and observed that single shot with the some of the more not all of our team scuba dives. whole crew before it happens— complicated sequences we’ve Instead, we’re split between top- the topside crew, me, the artist(s), filmed, such as Daniel Craig and

68 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Two of the 80 films on which Valentine has worked (left). Valentine in action on set (below) Mike Valentine

When you consider and that the housing is well- studio, or on location, at 7:30 sealed, so that it does not am, in time for breakfast. Prep that the resulting foot- flood. starts at 8:00 am, and we are age will be blown up “Meanwhile, underwater, I in the water by 9:00 am. Four have a safety/cable wrangler hours later, we will climb out many times to become diver with me monitoring my air for lunch. Then, at 2:00 pm, we an enormous image on a and ensuring that I don’t get are back in the water until 6 or cinema screen, you can tied up in cable, whilst every 7:00 pm. So, diving for a living is actor involved in the sequence not only mentally demanding, understand why so many has their own personal it’s physically demanding, people are involved in safety diver. Hence, too,” said Valentine. you can see why I say Believe the camera department. ‘we’. We’ve a solid me, the pro- Shooting team ethic where Robin Hood man is responsible for loading everyone understands ducer doesn’t “We’re now work- the film in the magazine, noting and respects each come around ing with Ridley Scott down what lenses were used, other’s position, and to ask if the on his version of the how many takes, etc, whilst we all watch each Robin Hood story working to the instruction of the other’s backs,” said dive team and staring Russell Crowe. first assistant cameraman. And Valentine. I are warm Obviously, at my then, the camera itself costs age, I want to be several thousand pounds, so Long days enough. as warm as possible, you need both the first assistant “The film industry has so decent suits and cameraman and the second traditionally long days, so that thermal underwear are high assistant cameraman to work you get the most of the light. on the list for my team and I. together closely and ensure Consequently, a typical day When you are working on a big that all runs smoothly topside, for us will be to arrive at the budget feature, believe me,

Eva Green in the lift, which fills image on a cinema screen, with water as the Venetian you can understand why so house sinks in Casino Royale, many people are involved you can see why having a in the camera department. strong underwater co-ordina- Effectively, I point and shoot tor is key. the image, whilst the first “Sat alongside Françoise is assistant cameraman ensures the first assistant cameraman/ that the image is always focus puller, and next to him, sharp by remotely control- the second assistant camera- ling the lens focus. Can you man/clapper loader. And image if it’s a tiny bit out again, they are also crucial of focus on a monitor, just personnel. When you consider how ghastly it will look on a that the resulting footage huge screen at the Odeon will be blown up many times Leicester Square? Then the to become an enormous second assistant camera-

69 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Mike Valentine hangs out with a few extras After working on over 80 Dive into X-RAY MAG’s on the movie set features, I can still say that Library of Issues! confidence. Normally, every day we go to work the artists we work is still fun, because I feel Download past issues FREE with have very little experience, so we that we are still unlocking need to train them the door of the underwater for the shoot. A good example of this was world and sharing Keira Knightley and it’s beauty with as many Atonement. In one of the sequences we people as possible. filmed, she had to hang in was told, front of ‘We’ve got a blue it, you don’t screen need to do for it again’. I about suggested four we did hours. one more Although take, and she was because a bit we’d built nervous her con- at the fidence begin- so much, ning to be she said, underwa- ‘I’m doing the producer doesn’t come around any old piece of equipment. Having ter, the temperature really another to ask if the dive team and I are warm the right kit, which we know will con- built her confidence, and one’. enough—it just doesn’t happen. So, we sistently perform—so we can forget she relaxed, which made So, we all need to be responsible for our own about it and get on with our job—is for a successful shoot for all. success- hydration, safety, fitness and stamina. important to us,” said Valentine. “Instilling confidence and fully got None of us can just climb out of the trust in an artist is vital. We another water after an hour, because we’ve Warm water were brought in to shoot a take out had enough, or we’re cold, and it’s not “It does make a change to film out- complicated sequence with of her. uncommon for us to be in the water for doors, because most of the filming I do Nicole Kidman in The Hours. “For eight hours. You see, we’re in the water these days is at Pinewood at the pur- The idea was that her head me, that longer than anyone else concerned pose built underwater stage. Ironically, was stuck inside a tree root, illustrat- with the feature. We’re first in because this tank brings its own set of problems, and of course, her hair was ed that we need to get the shot lined up. After because this time, we’re working in terribly tangled up. We got we’d that, we’re filming the actors. Then, in very warm water of approximately her ‘comfortable’ and then done between acting takes, we could also 30˚C/90˚F. When you are filming babies added Fuller’s Earth to the our job properly. We’d put be filming anything from model ships through to Sharon Stone, keeping them water until we had about three feet an actor into a very challenging and to explosions and checking how shots at 30˚C keeps them confident to work of visibility. She then held her breath potentially dangerous situation, and look. As a result, we’re always the last underwater,” said Valentine. for 15 seconds, as I slowly tracked the very safely achieved a realistic shot out of the water as well. Getting cold is camera into her face. The result was that the audience truly believed and not an option. Instilling confidence amazing. At first, you see nothing.Then, embraced. “I guess part of being the most effec- It’s funny, temperature not only has it’s like a painting revealing layers, and “I really get a kick out of achieving a tive ‘we’ also means having the best an impact on breathing rates, dexter- finally, you see Nicole ‘dead’ underwa- shot where the audience never even and latest equipment (in test) at our ity and one’s ability to think and act ter. considers any of the problems associ- www.xray-mag.com disposal. Consequently, we don’t dive effectively, it also greatly influences “She climbed out after the take and ated in getting it,” said Valentine. ■

70 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Spinies are curious and playful. After materializing from the emerald haze, they quite often zip from one diver to the next, like lost puppies sniffing at the heels of strangers. — Andy Murch

Spiny

DogfishText and photos by Andy Murch and politicians

71 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Dogfish

rather special. clocks leave them extremely By counting the vulnerable to overfishing. Off the lines on their coast of Europe, where spinies dorsal spines (a have been relentlessly fished to bit like count- supply the demand for fish and ing tree rings), chips, populations are at an all scientists have time low. calculated conversely, in the Eastern that they are Atlantic, catch limits that were extremely long- introduced a decade ago have lived sharks, resulted in an upswing in dogfish possibly reach- numbers along the eastern sea- ing the ripe old board. Their stocks have rebound- age of 70. They ed to the point where there are also hold the reports of marauding plagues of record for spiny dogfish destroying the longest nets and deplet- gestation ing other fish of and

any living verte- inverte- brate (up to a brate species whopping two that fishermen years), and are trying to target. they do not in an ideal world, reach sexual big schools of dog- maturity until fish should not be a problem. their late teens Historically, spinies have always or early twen- been abundant sharks. Veteran ties. divers that were active in British Columbia back in the 70’s and early 80’s, relate tales of impen- You won’t find Spiny dogfish on Whale sharks for example, are After materializing from Unfortunately, etrable clouds of dogfish tum- most shark diver’s ‘bucket lists’. In interesting in a Goodyear Blimp the emerald haze, they their slow bling over each other as they fact, the only time that your aver- kind of way, but they really don’t quite often zip from one diver biologi- swept along the reefs in search age diver will come into contact do much other than swim monot- to the next, like lost puppies sniff- cal of food. Their collective biomass with a dogfish is when it is cov- onously forward, mouth agape, ing at the heels of strangers. would block out the sun, and their ered in batter, served with chips consuming copious amounts of if you bring them a few tidbits, movements over the sea floor and bathed in an artery-constrict- plankton. If you’ve ever swum they’ll be your friends for as long even would generate a sand storm that ing amount of salt and vinegar. with one, you’ll be familiar with as the food supply lasts. If not, after a reduced visibility to zero. It’s ironic really, because as sharks their nonchalant stare and slowly once they have sated their curios- very brief go, these pint-sized predators weaving tail that quickly leaves ity, they generally disappear back encounter. Population are some of the most interesting you floundering in its wake. into the fog, but their vibrant Unfortunately, in the brave sharks you’re ever likely to bump not so with spiny dogfishes. personalities are guaranteed Physiology new world of the 21st into underwater. Spinies are curious and playful. to leave an indelible impression Spiny dogfish are physiologically century where practi-

72 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED feature Dogfish cally all fish stocks have been depleted, the big blow to shark conservation in oceans may no longer be able to support general, but regarding spinies, per- dogfish in such large numbers. haps that was a good thing. the wholesale slaughter of larger shark species is a big part of the puzzle. Solutions Overfishing of apex predatory sharks has The sensible course left spinies with few natural enemies that of action are capable of keeping their numbers in would check. With many fisheries hanging in the balance, more and more fishermen are expressing that western Atlantic dogfish stocks should be culled to take them out of the fight for food. Last month, spiny be for the European Community to impose a regional moratorium that would protect European dog- dogfish stocks while allowing fish were among eight species of sharks North American fishing that were put forward for inclusion in CITES fleets to keep operat- Appendix II. A CITES listing would have ing. Hopefully, this given the endangered European spiny will occur in stocks a much needed respite from fishing the not pressure, but it would also have protected the rampant Western Atlantic populations. too distant future. through a combination of ques- Meanwhile, the coast of tionable science and political British Columbia is still one of maneuvering by wealthy the best places on the planet fishing nations, all of the to encounter friendly spiny proposed species dogfish. Quadra Island—which were rejected. has some of the most vibrant It was a wall diving in the Pacific North West—is a particularly dog- fishy place. During the summer months, it is fairly common for divers to be buzzed multiple times on a single dive. If you’re not the type of diver that is scared off by ‘non-tropical’ conditions, give BC a try. A dive with a handful of spiny dogfish is an experience you’ll not soon forget. ■

73 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Text and photos by Barb Roy

ChurchillTrekking Canada’s Sub-Arctic Region in Manitoba

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THIS PAGE: A wall of curious Beluga whales approaches the divers, glowing golden from the tannins in the water and showing white humps at the surface (above). PREVIOUS PAGE: View of Hudson Bay from town

The arctic air was crisp as I waited for my dive buddy, Rob Pritchett, to roll back into the water from the Zodiac. While in the water I made a quick scan of the shore and bay for polar bears, since they are excellent swimmers and predators to be wary of. A light breeze rippled across the smooth sub-arctic surface of Hudson Bay, sending an icy chill down my back. While listening to the soft tranquil hum of the zodiac’s idling outboard, I noticed a pod of spouting belugas change their directional path and head towards us. Excitement embraced an already exhilarating moment, as I fumbled to locate my camera. Within seconds we were surrounded at the surface! Their white backs gleamed in a late afternoon sun, and the murky tannin from the nearby Churchill River caused the belugas to glow an eerie yellow underwater. The previous day, we were told by a whale–watching guide that they will only come close if you’re snorkeling at the surface, but today we hoped for more by using scuba.

75 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED feature Churchill A sculpinfish sulks on the sea floor (left); Sea anemones are abundant along the coast (below)

At the surface, the rounded back of a Beluga can be seen half lit by the sun

Rob entered with a splash and we bottom time! Some of my pho- descended to 16 meters (55 feet) at tographic subjects included a the top of a flat pinnacle in Button small nudibranch on an orange Bay not far from the town of Churchill. burrowing sea cucumber, more Visibility gradually increased with depth, shrimp, a few sculpins and several Divers prepare to unlike the water temperature, which amphipods, with the latter found snorkle with the decreased to 2.7°C (37°F). in mid-water. Belugas (left) Life was indeed sparse in this harsh Just as my face was begin- remote underwater wilderness, but the ning to really feel the cold, Rob Tiny nudibranch can be found among orange and yellow anemones, clusters appeared in front of me and fronds of sea flora of pink soft coral and several dozen motioned to turn around. Not (right) decorator crabs seemed to be flourish- knowing what to expect, I slowly ing. Some sections were covered with turned to discover a massive wall dense patches of algae hiding inverte- of belugas! Their accumulation brate life, while others were bare and was so great they filled our view. calmly sat, turning smooth with only a few sea stars. Hiding some were vertical in the water, better understanding of what we were. into scuba popsicles, experiencing one under a leaf of algae was a large others watched head-on and some “Oh shisnic!” I muttered aloud hell-of-a unique encounter, not soon to armor-plated shrimp about the length slowly swam by. In awe, we watched through my regulator, realizing I hadn’t be forgotten! of Rob’s hand. I later learned it was motionless as about 30 came within six fired off a single wide-angle shot. For probably a ‘tank shrimp’. meters (20 feet) of us, then parted into ten minutes they swam around us, Churchill As usual, I carried two cameras to two sections and swam in wide circles sometimes pausing just out of reach, This was one of my first dives in document as much as possible. A around us with the two groups going in maybe for a closer look. A baby, still the remote township of Churchill, high-pitched chatter of whistles and opposite directions. They bobbed their gray in color, hovered close to mom Manitoba, over ten years ago. I had clicks seemed to tease us just out of flexible heads—their cervical vertebrae and watched. I often later wondered hooked up with Rob, an RCMP officer sight. Doubting the Beluga would ever are not fused—and swayed their 3-5 if we might have been the objects of stationed in Churchill, through our approach us underwater, I focused on meter- (10-15 foot-) long one-ton bod- their study. Or…perhaps our unusual mutual friend, Ian Hall, who operated a obtaining macro images as quickly as ies. Light vibrations seemed to emanate structure and sounds (tanks and dive charter business in Nanaimo, British possible, since my fingers were already from them as they curiously bounced bubbles) sparked an interest for them Columbia. Rob provided me with the growing numb after only 12 minutes of sonar echolocation waves off us for a to learn more. Nonetheless, there we use of tanks, weights and a means to

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CLOCKWISE: The flavor of rustic pioneer life distinguish local turist shops like the Arctic Trading Company in Churchill; Wildflowers such as purple paintbrush decorate the fields in the spring/summer; Delicious local cuisine at the Lazy Bear Lodge; Sunset in the Canadian Sub-Arctic of Manitoba

get airfills at the local fire department. for deeper dives, like the one described There are mainly two ways for visitors earlier. My lodging consisted of an to get to Churchill—fly or take VIA Rail, a inexpensive local bed and breakfast lodge two-day train ride from Winnipeg. Feeling where I had the opportunity to meet other adventurous I took the latter. Fortunately, I travelers and back-packers from around was also assigned a roomette or sleeping the world. For transportation, I rented an old compartment on the train. If you are an Ford pickup. underwater photographer, you will have an it was July then, and colorful wildflowers idea of how much luggage I was traveling covered the countryside and scented the with and how hard it is to separate a pho- air with the fragrance of springtime. I must tographer from their equipment. have spent hours in that old truck exploring this tiny space was designed to accom- one dead-end road after another. Churchill, modate only one, approximately 1.2x1.8 however, was not without its challenges, meters (4x6-feet) in size. Within this space and I’m not referring to the occasional was one cushioned chair next to an over- polar bears one might encounter while out sized window. A small toilet was located for an evening stroll after a meal of caribou under the chair, and a tiny sink pulled down stew. It’s the mosquitoes. from the wall, complete with running water. When you have an environment such as The bed also pulled down covering the Churchill, located on the western shore of entire room. Showers and food service were Hudson Bay in a sub-arctic region, spring, in another train car. I must say though, the summer and fall are limited to about ten rhythm of the train was ever so soothing. weeks, thus creating an explosion of life! The A sled dog sign tells it like it is... Overall, quite the escapade! same goes for the bugs. If I wanted to stop Rob and I used a four-wheeler for the and photograph something—a beautiful shore dives and rented a boat with a driver sunset, a field of flowers or one of the 250

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COUNTER- CLOCKWISE: Canon at Cape Mary Battery (above); Polar bear cages; Polar bear tour bus; Using an off-road Miss Piggy plane wreck (above); A local shows how to build a stone land- vehicle to mark called an inukshuk (left) — a tradition of the Arctic native peoples get around town is the species of migrating birds—I had to prepare Visitors arriving in locals’ pre- my camera while in transit. When I arrived late October and ferred mode at the preferred site, I would park the truck November are able of travel. (still running), quickly jump out to snap off as to see polar bears BELOW: Location of many images as possible during an average from the safety of Churchill on 30-second window before being inundated customized tour global map by the bugs. If more images were desired, I buses, as the bears of North would simply run around the truck again for a await the return of America 15-second window (bugs growing wiser to my the pack to con- tactics). Another sprint around the truck and tinue with their hunting. Some bears tend to keeping the town free of roving individuals I could often leap into the cab with minimal awake early, while others make their way and mothers with cubs. If you happen to followers to later deal with. back to the coast after being inland for some see a dirty-white spot out in the tundra Mosquito spray did help, but the little time. But if the bears arrive too early, they during July or August, or along the buggers seemed to know exactly to the can pose a problem to unwary tourists. shore near the smooth boulders, second when the deterrent wore off. Even i remember Rob telling me how he was there’s a good chance it might be though the mosquitoes were a challenge, the part of a team who went out and rounded a polar bear—so keep in mind, journey was well worth the trip, especially to up bears that wandered too close to town. they can eat you! dive and see the belugas in such a natural They would tranquilize them, put the bears setting. into big round metal cages, and carry them Artic features off to the other side of the river away from From November to March one Polar bears town, or transport the bears (within the cage) can enjoy the brilliant colors of the Over the years, residents and business own- by helicopter up to 20km (12.5 miles) north Aurora Borealis dancing across the ers of Churchill have successfully survived along the coast. He also said a few stubborn horizon. A milder version can also by marketing their natural resources through ones found their way back to town. be seen during the summer, but not ecotourism, utilizing almost every season. the bear patrol of today is still proficient in with the same grandeur. From late May

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LEFT TO RIGHT: Polar bears on Cape Churchill; A look-out with rifle watches for polar bears; Ansgar Walk / creative commons Scene of the town of Churchill; Wild orchids can be found in the fields around town

polar bear population decrease: they had to offer. I also opted for flying out of their way in providing professional, and weigh up to 1,600 kilograms (3,500 According to a report entitled, Left in with Calm Air, shortening my trip by knowledgeable tour guides. pounds). They are very sociable and Off the List, published by the David four days so I could do a stopover in self-guided tours and interpretive talks usually can be found in the Arctic Suzuki Foundation, a decline of 22 per- Winnipeg on the way back. are available through Parks Canada and sub-Arctic waters above the 50th cent of the Western Hudson Bay polar churchill still seemed to wear the look at the VIA Rail station and at Cape parallel. They love to play and have few bear population—the most studied of an old northern frontier settlement, Mary National Historic Site, a stone natural predators (orca and polar bear). population in the world—has occurred perhaps because it originally grew from battery originally constructed to provide belugas are often called “sea between 1987 and 2004. Scientists have a remote outpost in the late 1920’s. Not additional protection for the settlement canaries” because of their strange high- drawn a significant correlation between much use for a rental vehicle any more at the river’s mouth. During both visits pitched whistles, clicking, chirping and global warming, the earlier break-up of because most of the tour companies I found Cape Mary to be an excellent other vocalizations. They are fond of this sea ice, and the weaker condition (e.g. now pick up their guests. Of the location for bird- and whale-watching! area for having their young and feeding reduced fertility rates) of the Western approximately 1000 year-round residents, During the latest trip, the guards posted on the river’s rich run of capelin (small Hudson Bay bears. four-wheelers are still the preferred with rifles on the walls were keeping herring fish). mode of transportation, parked like cars an eye out for polar bears, rather than After playing with the belugas we through September migrating birds are everywhere. Some even fury navigators invading troops. ventured out on a land excursion to the thick, and their squawks become com- (dogs)! My first outing with Lazy Bear Lodge wreckage site of Miss Piggy, a Curtis mon sounds along the shore. My favorite was a paddling trip on the river. The C-46 freight plane. The crash took place was being able to watch a flock of san- Excursions belugas came very close to the kayaks, in 1979 while on approach to Churchill. dhill cranes. Unfortunately scuba diving is still not and I’m sure the boats gave off a Once again our guide brought along From a population of more than 20,000 offered unless you pack in all your gear strange sensation when echolocation a bear deterrent (rifle). I brought my belugas inhabiting western Hudson Bay, and my friend Rob was relocated. Visitors was used. Although a slight current camera but never thought about over 3000 arrive at the Churchill River can however, participate in kayaking, pushed the kayaks around, rudders shooting bears with anything else. During estuary areas in July and stay through whale watching and beluga snorkeling made it easy to maneuver. All around my previous trip, I visited the site with mid-August. This is the best time to view, excursions. us, the belugas constantly spouted only a friend, who was probably a faster study, kayak with and snorkel with these the Lazy Bear is also preparing to offer and released bubbles under the boats. runner anyway. gentle creatures. inland fishing trips on the Churchill River Both adults and babies came close, the plane’s engine currently sits next My second visit to Churchill was early along with wildlife sightseeing tours. After their gleaming white and gray bodies to one of the wings. Unfortunately time, August of 2009, just as tourism was talking with Wally Daudrich, the owner, standing out in the copper-coloured river the elements, and vandalism have winding down for the season. The Lazy I gathered the Lazy Bear Lodge is willing water. taken their toll on the remains, leaving Bear Lodge hosted my stay so I could to customize trips for just about any these majestic belugas will reach an empty shell sitting on huge moss check out some of the many activities group. Their guides also seemed to go nearly six meters (18 feet) in length and tundra covered boulders. Even the

79 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Video shows divers snorkeling with a large View a short video clip of a curious group of Belugas (click Beluga whale mugging for the camera on the image at left to (click on the image below to watch) Churchill feature watch); Prince of Wales Fort is being fully reno- vated (below)

useless at the surface. ing to be remounted on the walls. For video footage, I The wreck of the Ithaca is a bit of a used a smaller housed drive but fun to check out. In 1961, the camera (Cannon G7) in cargo vessel was caught in a high wind- an Ikelite housing with storm and washed ashore at Bird Cove. no lights. There it remained, sitting upright and the water colouration exposed to the elements. was still affected by the During my last visit, Rob and I walked river tannin causing it out for closer examination, but at that to have a murky yellow time Rob was packing a big bear rifle. haze. Once again the On this trip, the group decided not to belugas appeared to tempt fate for a closer look at the rusting must have looked like we were glow underwater. hulk. trolling for belugas, or maybe it also seemed that they liked to on the way out to the Ithaca, you polar bears. position themselves directly under might get a chance to stop and visit a it wasn’t long before a pod snorkelers just out of reach and turn their local dog musher’s team. During the win- came to investigate. A few at white undersides up to watch. Forty-five ter, some of the dogs are used for sled first, but then more and more minutes passed like seconds, and not rides and others for racing. During our became curious. Soon, they once did they make an aggressive move tour, the guide said he had heard stories were everywhere. The two or seem afraid of us in any way. They just from the caretakers who arrived to occa- in the water were making as liked following the boat and probably sionally find the dogs playing with polar much noise as the belugas. laughing at the funny looking critters or bears! Not sure who was more “lures” being pulled behind it. on the way back to town, our guide excited… showed us where the Akjuit Aerospace soon, it was my turn. I tried Topside attractions was and the Churchill Northern Studies to enter without making any Two other excursions not to miss when Centre. He also explained that the noise and found the surface visiting Churchill are a visit to the Prince Churchill Research Range had 3,500 temperature to be quite warm, of Wales Fort National Historic Site and a launches in its 28-year history through maybe low 40’s, compared trip out to the wreck of the Ithaca. The 1989. to my scuba visit. With the sun fort is located across the river shining and no wind on the from town. History states the horizon, it was turning out to be fortress took the Hudson’s Bay a great day, especially when Company around 40 years to the belugas came to check build, starting in 1731. me out. currently, the Fort is under- instruments where the pilots once sat was provided, including a quick douse of Rather than holding onto the pole, I going massive renovations. have disappeared. mosquito spray. Speaking of mosquitoes, hooked my leg over it and was pulled Original iron cannons now lay After photographing the crash site, I and if you plan to travel with your own backwards, keeping my hands free to on the ground in a row just began looking around for what flowers snorkel, the type that works best are the work the camera controls. Strobes were outside the main entry, wait- Ansgar Walk / creative commons there might be and discovered some dry snorkels because the bugs can’t be tiny orchids only a few millimeters high sucked in. next to a puddle of water on one of the i’m not sure but I believe we were boulders. How easy it is to miss these rare once again in Button Bay where Rob and delights. I did one of our first boat dives with the belugas. The two guides donned their Snorkeling with Belugas dry suits and snorkeling gear and entered Before my journey ended Wally took me the water. Wally had them hold onto and a couple of his new guides out to a pole in the water, as he slowly pulled snorkel with the belugas. All equipment them with the boat. From a distance, it

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LEFT TO RIGHT: Wreckage of the MV Ithaca; The staff of Winnepeg’s Tall Grass Prairie Bread Company show off yummy baked goodies; Old St. Boniface City Hall in the French Quarter of Winnipeg. BOTTOM LEFT: St. Boniface Museum in the French Quarter of Winnipeg

depart from and the Ordovician Period, 450 million years Churchill Travel Links return to for a trip ago. www.manitobamuseum.ca Churchill Chamber of Commerce to Churchill. As I For more information about traveling to www.churchill.ca mentioned ear- Winnipeg, visit the following links: Parks Canada lier, I chose to fly Tourism Winnipeg www.pc.gc.ca into Churchill, so www.destinationwinnipeg.ca Travel Manitoba overall I found my journey to Churchill pack some quality bug spray, sun block, I could enjoy a few days in Winnipeg to Tourisme Reil www.everythingchurchill.com quite rewarding for the activities one can a sun hat and mosquito netting, if one relax and explore some of the city’s cul- www.tourismereil.com Via Rail participate in. My stay at the Lazy Bear is planning any hikes. I brought my dive tural diversity. Inn at the Forks www.viarail.ca Lodge was first-rate, and I thought the mask (prescription lenses) and my snorkel During my brief stint, I stayed at The www.innforks.com Calm Air rustic log construction fit right in. The din- and fins. Forks, a Natural Historic Site of Canada www.calmair.com ners in their restaurant were exceptional, located at the junction of the Red and Lazy Bear Lodge especially the evening specials. Their Words of Wisdom Assiniboine Rivers. This was once a meet- www.lazybearlodge.com ■ daily breakfast buffets on the other hand I did find out about condensation in ing place where aboriginal tribes once could use more variety. my camera housing the hard way. With met, dating back to over 3000 years. topside temperatures hovering between Today, it is a site filled with unique shops, VIA Rail train What to Bring 21-26°C (70-80°F) on a sunny day and restaurants, community events and self- transports guests in Summer visitors to Churchill might want to water temperatures between 0-4.4°C guided tours. style to Churchill (32-40°F), condensation tends to Across the Esplanade Reil bridge is from Winnipeg build up on the dome port of the the French Quarter and home to St. housing. To avoid this, I placed Boniface, one of the oldest areas in my housing (with camera inside) Winnipeg. The other direction leads into a bin or bucket of cold into downtown Winnipeg and the East ocean water while still at the Exchange District where the Manitoba dock, and covered it with a wet Museum is located. towel to keep it out of the sun. A new permanent exhibit is now open in the museum called Ancient Seas, Winnipeg Stopover creating an aquarium-like atmosphere This is a city not to miss if you with sound, video and multi-layered want the full Manitoba pack- 3-D animation. This unique gaze back in age. Whether you travel by air time takes a look at prehistoric marine or rail, the cosmopolitan city Manitoba, including Churchill when it of Winnipeg is where you will was submerged under a tropical sea of

81 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED technical matters Practice makes perfect; basic skills in technical diving can make it seem like one is learning to dive all over again, albeit better with more stream- lined trim

Lessons from Technical Diving Text and photos courtesy of Mark Powell

Diving is an activity that appeals agencies, combined to make While the barriers to this underwater risks that arise and how you can move meant by the phrase technical diving. to a huge selection of people, it was possible for people to do world were gradually being broken towards this type of diving. For those who This is not as easy as it might seem. There a basic open water course in down, a small group of experienced are not tempted to venture into this area is no agreed definition of the phrase, and and within diving, there are divers were starting to push the limits of of the sport, we will also discuss what les- different people use it to mean different almost as many ways to enjoy a few days during the annual traditional recreational scuba diving. This sons can be learnt from technical diving things. the sport as there are partici- summer holiday. Whole families movement, which has been christened in order to improve normal recreational one common definition is that techni- pants. During the 1990’s scuba could do an open water div- ‘technical diving’, started off with just diving. This is similar to the way in which cal diving is everything beyond recrea- a few dedicated individuals. Over the the majority of motorists will never come tional diving. This is a good starting point diving became a mass par- ing qualification, which allowed last few years, this area has seen a huge close to a Formula One Grand Prix car, but does have a few problems. First of ticipation sport. The increase in Mum, Dad and the kids to increase in interest, and now a significant but make use, in their own cars, of many all, different organisations have different holidays to exotic destinations, experience the wonders of the number of divers are moving towards of the innovations that have been devel- limits for what constitutes recreational together with a growing com- undersea world. technical diving. In this and subsequent oped by the Formula One teams. diving. For example, some organisations articles, we will explore what is meant by in order to talk about technical div- do not allow decompression diving within mercialisation of diver training technical diving, what is involved, the ing, we should first try to define what is the limits of recreational diving whilst

82 X-RAY MAG : 36: 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Technical dive instruc- Oxigen tank and tor, Mark Powell, scooter are typical geared up for a equpment used on Technical Diving feature technical dive technical dives

other organisations do. A second benefits for all divers. decompression occurs problem in defining technical div- Another definition is that technical and no decompres- ing as everything beyond recrea- diving is the type of diving that is at the sion stop is required, tional diving is that the dividing leading edge of the sport, or the type of but we have still been line between the two is not fixed. diving that is carried out by the pioneers. decompressing during For example in the early 1980’s, This is another appealing this ascent Nitrox was considered to be firm- definition but suffers from In recreational div- and will ly in the technical diving area. some of the same prob- continue It was thought to be too lems as the previous ones. ing, we often hear the to decom- risky for use by recrea- Where do we draw the term ‘no-decompression press on tional divers. Yet over line between the leading dive’. In reality, there the sur- the last twenty years, edge and mainstream face for Nitrox has become but adventurous diving? is no such thing, as all a number much more widely so, we can see that dives require decom- of hours accepted, and a firm definition of what after- today, when constitutes technical div- pression to some extent. wards. used correct- ing is difficult to pin down. It may be that during This is why ly, is recog- Despite this, it is usually ascent nised as offer- easy to recognise it when the ascent, sufficient rates and ing significant we see it. Furthermore, it decompression occurs safety safe- is clear that there are cer- stops are ty tain aspects that we can and no decompression essential, as use to identify technical stop is required, but we they allow rather than recreational enough diving. have still been decom- time to Dives to depths greater pressing during this decom- than those found in rec- ascent and will contin- press during reational diving, or involv- the ascent. ing significantly longer ue to decompress on the So, rather dive times, are typical in surface for a number of than refer the field of technical div- to a dive ing. Dives are undertaken hours afterwards. where we to considerably greater do not need depths than the recreational limit of 40m. to make mandatory decom- Depths of 50m to 100m are not uncom- pression stops as a ‘no-deco’ dive, mon, with many dives greater than 100m we can more accurately refer to it as a or even 200m. This inevitably means that no-stop dive. Once we exceed the no- technical diving is decompression diving. stop time, we cannot ascend directly to Breathing mix However, not all decompression diving the surface without risking decompres- With longer decompres- is necessarily technical diving, as some sion illness. sion times, it is common for technical recreational agencies do allow limited Decompression stops are carried out divers to carry more than one breath- decompression. at certain depths to allow the excess ing mix. In addition to back gas car- nitrogen in the body to reduce to a level ried in large cylinders mounted—not Deco time where it is safe to continue on to the surprisingly—on their back, they will also In recreational diving, we often hear the surface. Effective buoyancy control and carry one or more deco gases. These are term ‘no-decompression dive’. In real- the ability to hold decompression stops rich nitrox mixes, which will speed up the ity, there is no such thing, as all dives accurately are essential before any diver decompression. This is known as acceler- require decompression to some extent. It considers carrying out decompression ated decompression and can make a may be that during the ascent, sufficient diving. significant difference to the amount of

83 X-RAY MAG : 36: 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED It’s a good idea to get used to using twin tanks before you start a tech- Wrecks hold a unique fascina- nical diving course Technical Diving feature tion, and diving on a previ- additional oxygen increases the risk of ously undiscovered wreck for As we go deeper and stay longer, we oxygen toxicity at depth. the first time is a magical increase our decompression obligation. For deeper dives a breathing mixture In the event of a problem, we cannot that reduces the levels of both nitrogen experience. In order to find simply ascend to the surface without risk- and oxygen is required. The only way to undiscovered or rarely visited ing decompression illness. Many divers do this is to introduce a third gas, which would never consider cave diving, as the will replace some of the oxygen and wrecks, divers often have to thought of not being able to ascend due nitrogen. This gas must have limited side dive deeper than the recrea- to being in an overhead environment effects, as we don’t want to reduce two would be too much to deal with. Yet any problematic gases only to introduce a tional limits. diver who carries out a decompression third. Helium is the only real option and dive introduces these same limitations, as is the gas of choice for technical divers. the pinnacle of scuba diving and a way the decompression obligation introduces This combination of oxygen, nitrogen to perfect their diving skills. what is known as a virtual overhead. and helium is known as Trimix. As we move further into the realm of The Risks technical diving, our assumptions about Why do we do it? Whatever the reason for starting down decompression illness start to become There are a number of reasons why the technical diving path, it is important tested. If we are diving at 20 metres, people undertake technical diving. For to recognise that any type of technical then we know that millions of other divers me, the main reason is related to ship- diving can potentially increase the risk have successfully dived in these depths. wreck exploration. Wrecks hold a unique of serious injury or death. Recreational Whilst any dive will have a risk of decom- fascination, and diving on a previously diving is a very safe activity, and if we pression illness, we can be confident undiscovered wreck for the first time is are going to increase the risks, then we that the risk is very small. With deeper a magical experience. In order to find should do it with our eyes open. and longer decompression dives, we are undiscovered or rarely visited wrecks, divers often have to dive deeper than the recreational limits. Another reason for venturing deeper is that wrecks at depth tend to be better preserved than wrecks in shallower water. The wave and storm action will quickly break up wrecks in shallow waters, and so the deeper we go, the more intact the wreck tends to be. So, for me, technical diving is a means to an end. If there was an endless supply of intact, undiscovered wrecks in 20m of water, then I would never have become involved in technical diving. For others, there are different attractions to technical diving. In general, diving is not a competitive sport, but there are some people who want to dive deeper than anyone else, or to dive decompression time involved. For exam- choices is suitable for deep diving. The beyond some real or imagined depth ple, using EAN50 as a decompression oxygen and nitrogen in both air and limit. In the same way as climbers want gas can cut the decompression time nitrox becomes toxic as the diver goes to conquer a particular mountain peak required for a particular dive from 50 deeper; oxygen causes oxygen toxicity “because it’s there”, there are divers minutes to just 24 minutes. and nitrogen causes debilitating nitrogen who want to dive to a specific depth either air or nitrox is the gas of choice narcosis. Nitrox reduces the amount of for the same reason. Similarly, there are for the recreational diver. However, nitrogen in the breathing mixture but only divers who want to be the best in their for technical divers, neither of these by increasing the amount of oxygen. This field and who view technical diving as During deco stops at the end of a technical dive, divers switch to 100 percent oxygen 84 X-RAY MAG : 36: 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Technical diver taking notes Technical Diving feature in the deep

obviously, this type of diving can only be undertaken with extensive training, experience and prepara- tion. Divers should already have significant experience of recreational diving involving more than 100 dives before even considering technical diving. At this stage, they should find an experienced technical diving instructor who can give them the necessary training to move from recreational to technical diving. in subsequent articles, we will look at some of the different equipment configu- rations used by technical divers. These stress the need for redundancy in essential equipment, familiarity with the use of all equipment, and streamlining to ensure everything is accessible, being overly cluttered. moving into an area where there is much happy to accept all of these increased We will also look at some of the addition- less experience of decompression princi- risks. al training and skills that must be practiced ples. We are, in effect, acting as guinea in order to manage these risks, and and become second nature. We will look pigs for decompression reduce them to an accept- at the approaches to dive planning that research. There are so The risks discussed above able level, we have to are adopted in order to increase the safety many aspects of decom- review how we carry out of these dives. As we go through each of pression that are not fully might lead you to think the dive. In many cases, these areas, we will see that many of these understood, and the risks that anyone who undertakes the solutions are the same changes can also be adopted by recrea- of suffering decompres- any form of technical div- as those adopted by the tional divers to further increase the safety of sion illness when push- recreational diver, but their dives. ing this knowledge are ing must be mad. This may the emphasis placed on Mark Powell is one of the leading techni- correspondingly higher. be partly true, but it doesn’t effectively carrying them cal diving instructors. Powell has been div- Nitrogen narcosis, oxygen out is much higher than ing since 1987 and instructing since 1994. toxicity and a variety of mean that technical divers for normal recreational He is a full time technical diving instruc- other risks must also be are happy to accept all of dives. In other cases, dif- tor for a number of the leading agencies considered when diving ferent equipment, training, and teaches all levels up to and including in these ranges. these increased risks. procedure and techniques Advanced Trimix. Powell has led a number the risks discussed above are adopted in order to of expeditions to various parts of the world might lead you to think that anyone who reduce the risks to an acceptable level. This including the Middle East, Costa Rica, undertakes any form of technical diving is the reason why normal recreational div- Malta and the Red Sea but is usually found must be mad. This may be partly true, but ing equipment and training is not sufficient diving the wrecks around the coast of the it doesn’t mean that technical divers are for technical diving. UK. ■ Divers form a small trident star around the ascent line as they begin their journey to the surface 85 X-RAY MAG : 36: 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED photo & video

Ian Heslop coming to Edited by take a photograph of Peter Symes a turtle in the north- & Scott Bennett ern Red Sea. Specs: 20mm lens, ISO 100, Twin Sea&Sea YS110 flash, 1/125th second at F8

Text and photos by Lawson Wood So, where do we start? And what type of camera do we buy? Should we go for the DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex)— basically a digital version of the old single lens reflex (SLR) camera where you compose your photograph through the lens of the camera—or should we go for a compact point-and-shoot camera, which has live-view screening.

DSLR cameras have interchangeable lenses, and all require a waterproof box, or housing, with suitable controls to use the camera to its full potential. (Actually, we NEVER, EVER use a digital camera to its full potential. Camera manufacturers should lis- ten to what underwater photographers require and produce a relatively cheap, high resolution camera with very few controls and no extra bits, which will always remain consigned to the manual under, “Forget this bit. You are not clever enough.”) the other type of camera, which comes in two different versions, is the manufactured PHD cameras (Press Here Dummy). These are essentially point- and-shoot cameras with a large continuous viewing screen on the back, so you are actually composing your photograph by use of the movie screen. Most Digital Camera Choice of these types of camera require a waterproof housing, and these are usually made specifically for the camera models by the camera manufacturers. of animal behaviour captured, whilst I could only manufacturers, and the relative models all have megapixel reproduction. Similarly, if you were a A few of these digital cameras are actually take a still photograph on my super-duper-state-of- interchangeable lenses. Most will even be able Canon or Olympus camera user, then chances are amphibious and do not require a waterproof hous- the-art DSLR. to use your old lenses from your now obsolete film you will do so again in the future. The new Canon ing. All of these types of point-and-shoot cameras cameras. If you used Nikon in a previous life, then EOS-1 Ds Mk3 has a whopping 21 megapixel full- also have the ability to shoot video directly onto the What to look for chances are that you will use the new Nikon DSLR’s. frame sensor and beats just about everything else memory card. I have seen some amazing digital film DSLR’s are produced by a large number of The top of the range is the Nikon D3X with a 24.5 hands-down.

86 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED photo & video silver

Sea&Sea YS-17 with DX-1200 Strobe Sea&Sea DX-2G with YS-110a Strobe Sea&Sea MDX-40D with Dual YS-110a Strobes and YS Converter

point-and-shoot cameras by Nikon, efficient, as it shuts down unwanted ● Ability to add on supplementary Disadvantages of Canon, Olympus, Fuji, Casio, Sony, processes between taking photographs, lenses to the outside of the camera the compact camera Kodak, Pentax, Sigma and just about but is instantly available at the slightest housing, therefore greatly increasing its ● The battery life of a compact camera everyone else in-between, all have press of the shutter button. capabilities is greatly reduced due to the live-view a superb range of cameras with ● They are able to utilize large capacity ● Ability to add on external flash, which screen on the rear of the camera. Using dedicated housings, and most have a memory cards, and most have large is fired as a slave from your in-camera the internal camera’s flash also further high megapixel rating to ensure nice megapixel rendition for ultra-sharp flash reduces the battery life. crisp images when they are reproduced. photography. ● Most compact cameras have the ● Camera housings are usually not very Whilst the photograph of Ian and ability to record sound and record digital robust, and care must be taken with the the turtle is in essence a close-focus- Disadvantages of DSLR video directly onto the memory card. camera controls. wide–angle photograph, I include it to ● Large and bulky illustrate the size of the DSLR and the ● Expensive housing, plus external flash and arm. The ● Newer models continually camera is undoubtedly set on auto-focus coming on the market as my dive partner, Ian, has the camera ● Expense of camera housings extended at arm’s length and angled in and ports to suit the variety of towards the turtle. By partly depressing lenses the shutter release, he is able to lock on ● Expense of additional flash cinema of dreams to the subject with his Canon camera, system and connecting arms and by further pressing the shutter, he (more money!) can take the photograph, thus firing the ● Require additional lenses (even external flash whilst keeping everything in more money!) focus. ● Once a lens choice has been made, it cannot be altered Advantages of DSLR underwater. ● Basically, what you see is what you get; you are able to compose your Advantages of the photograph through the lens. compact camera ● When the camera is switched on, it is ● Small and compact instantly ready for use. ● Lightweight ● There is no delay in taking the ● Some compact cameras are photograph. totally amphibious, thereby not ● You can utilize interchangeable lenses requiring a waterproof housing. to suit your photographic subject. ● Relatively cheap compared to www.seacam.com ● You are able to follow action DSLR’s sequences with quick bursts of photos at ● Inexpensive camera around five or six frames per second. housings, usually by the camera ● The battery life in DSLR’s is very manufacturer Specs: 105mm lens, 100asa, 1/125 second, single Sea&Sea YS180 flash at F.16 87 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Diver Reeta Tunney in a cavern in the northern Red photo & Sea holding a Compact Camera. Specs: 10mm video lens, ISO 100, Twin Sea&Sea YS110 flash, 1/80th second at F11. Note the size of the compact camera and waterproof housing that Reeta is holding

● Most do not accept external flash digital camera user, then it is much bet- arrangements. ter to stick with what you have for now ● There is a delay in the camera’s and learn your craft before spending performance whilst switching on. the money, not just on newer and bet- ● There is always a delay in taking ter models, but on all of the ancillary the photograph, thereby perhaps equipment that comes along with it. Big missing the action shot, or point of the memory cameras also need big memory photograph. back-up, such as large memory cards, ● Some cameras do not offer the RAW super-fast computer processing and feature for picture capture. terabytes of memory, to store your photographs safely. Which ever model you decide to invest For all you pseudo-professional pho- in, you can be sure that it will already tographers with your big mega-bucks be out of date by the time you master DSLR camera and lens, plus housing, plus mend that you also carry a compact computer and hard drives and twice the its complexities. If you are already a flash combo and arms, I would recom- camera that is set to digital video, with amount of time to do any post produc- the maximum size card available, sim- tion and captioning of my photographs! ply because I have missed recording so Do I stick with the 105mm macro lens many bahavioural scenarios that would or should I carry another camera sys- make David Attenborough weep, being tem with a 15mm wide angle lens and unable to record the action with a still thereby take in the whole scene of the camera. anglerfish and my dive buddy, Neil? As always, versatility is the key. Being Lawson Wood was raised in the able to change from extreme close-up Scottish east coast fishing town of to wide-angle at the switch of a button, Eyemouth and spent his youth explor- or turn of a dial, would be on everyone’s ing the rock pools and shallow seas list of must-haves. There are a number before learning to scuba dive at the of zoom lenses that do increase your tender age of 11. Over 44 years later, capabilities, but for the most part, once he has been fortunate to make his pas- you have decided on the prime lens you sion his career and has authored and are using for whatever type of photog- co-authored over 45 books, mainly on raphy you want, you are stuck with that our underwater world. Wood is a found- lens for the entire dive. ing member of the Marine Conservation What then happens is your wallet has Society, founder of the first Marine a heart attack, and you buy a second Reserve at St. Abbs in Scotland, and more advanced super-duper-all-singing- made photographic history by becom- and-dancing DSLR, and you take both ing the first person to be a Fellow of the of the cameras and housings and flash Royal Photographic Society and Fellow in at the same time. One camera fitted of the British Institute of Professional with a close-up lens, the other with wide- Photographers solely for underwater angle. Wow!! What just happened? photography. ■ Now, I need twice the memory on my

Diver Neil Finlayson with Anglerfish or Monkfish (Lophius piscatorius), St. Abbs, Scotland Specs: 15mm lens, 100asa, 1/80th second, single Sea&Sea YS350 flash at F5.6 88 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Seahorn Snoot photo & Constructed from aluminum and PVC, the Seahorn Snoot enables your favourite strobes to concentrate diffused light onto a small area. With a length of 14cm without attachments, the 35-degree angle beam opens up a video new world of creative lighting possibilities for macro photography. In addition, three additional attachments are available: 15.5cm with honeycomb attachment (5.5cm opening for light), 21cm with macro attachment (2cm opening for light) and 29cm with super macro attachment (1.5cm opening for light). Weighing in at a mere 242 grams, the Seahorn Snoot is available for a wide range of strobes including Ikelite, Inon, Sea&Sea, Patima and 10bar. Cost: US$60.00 plus shipping. For further information, visit: www.scubasymphony.com Aquatica Dome Aquatica introduces the BK-7 coated glass Mini Dome Topaz Labs releases DeNoise 4 100. The newest addition to Aquatica’s burgeoning line of Topaz Labs announces “IntelliNoise,” a new proprietary noise reduction ports, the Mini Dome 100 is ideally suited for fisheye lenses technology that makes its product debut in the newly upgraded software such as the Nikon 10.5mm, Tokina 10-17mm and Sigma program, Topaz DeNoise 4. IntelliNoise analyzes patterns in the entire image 10mm. Constructed from grounded BK-7 mineral glass, the to discover underlying detail and to recover it in the final result. Inhouse Mini Dome 100 boasts a diameter of only 100mm (4 inches). tests have shown that up to four stops of noise can be eliminated while Rated to a depth of 90m, the reduced frontal signature maintaining allows an extra close approach for close-up wide angle image detail subjects, providing extra room to position strobes for that and sharpness. perfect shot. Optical anti-reflection and scratch-resistant Available as coatings are included at no additional cost. Travelling a plug-in, the underwater photographers will appreciate the lightweight software works and compact size, especially in these days of increased with a variety travel restrictions. Set for release in Spring 2010, the Mini of host pro- Dome 100 will soon be made available for use with other grams includ- housing brands. Suggested retail price: US$699.00. For more ing Photoshop, information please contact: [email protected] Aperture, and Lightroom for Mac and Windows. Topaz DeNoise 4 with IntelliNoise is a free Ikelite upgrade for existing DeNoise customers and retails for US$79.99. For more informa- Ikelite has announced its housing for the tion, visit: www.topazlabs.com/denoise Canon HF-20, HF-21 and HF-200 video cameras. Rated to a depth of 60m, Ikelite’s robust polycarbonate design enables full view of the camcorder and control functions, with the camera’s large LCD screen clearly visible through the housing back. Aquatica port adaptors The included UR/Pro Color Filter provides color correction in tropical blue water In a bid to attract potential customers, Aquatica has announced the addition of two new port with available sunlight up to 80 feet (24 adapters, the first in a planned line of accessories to help future users migrate to the Aquatica meters). An optional filter #6441.81 is system. The first accommodates the Subal older generation ports (type 3). As it also available to achieve more natu- fits inside the Aquatica bayonet, it does not add any extension, and ral tones in green water settings. The all lenses normally associated with their housing port is threaded allowing the ports can be used starting from use of the optional #6420 Ikelite lens the Nikon 10.5mm. The sec- or 67mm threaded wide-angle and ond will accept Sea & Sea macro lenses available from other manu- NX generation ports. While facturers. The base removes instantly with a unique toggle adding a mimimal amount clamp for traveling or attaching of the optional Pro Video of extension, it has been cal- Lite 3 battery pack. The handle assembly detaches from the culated to accommodate the housing by removal of just two nuts for packing. popular Tokina 10-17mm without www.ikelite.com restriction. www.aquatica.ca

89 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Unique Dive Site

Text and photos by Adam St.Gelais lazily glided away over the colors flitting about frantically, www.atsphotographic.com sand to avoid the impending as I intruded on his territory. So The Florida sun was warm and intrusion of noisy bubbles and consumed by the dance of the high overhead as I donned camera flashes. As I finned Razorfish, I barely noticed the my fins and slipped below the towards the shadows, I stopped shifty dark mass in the distance surface with camera in hand. to investigate a small male making its way towards me. As A juvenile Spotted Eagle ray Rosy Razorfish in full breeding I watched, the mass grew larger and more ominous as it drifted closer. I was still unable to discern what it was. Finally, the blob came into focus, and I was able to make out hundreds of wing tips and flashing white bel- Blue HeronRiviera Bridge Beach, Florida lies writhing in the shallows. A diver explores among the soft coral and sponge encrusted bridge pilings 90 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED feature Unique Dive

CANADA

U.S.A. A school of Cownose rays, oblivious to underwater image pioneers. But to those my presence, swirled around me in a full in the know, there are plenty of photo- feeding frenzy. As the massive aggrega- graphic opportunities for photographic tion of rays moved on, I turned my atten- adventures in Florida well beyond the tion—and new-found exuberance—back Keys, which are easy to get to, easy on to the shadows. your wallet, and just as exotic. When you mention Florida to an under- case in point, the Blue Heron Bridge in TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: Hidden Crab—make sure you explore the water photographer, visions that spring Riviera Beach, Florida. Whether you are abundant crevices. You never know what you might find; A sleep- to mind tend to be those of beautiful taking a camera beneath the surface for FLORIDA ing Rainbow parrotfish photographed at night; Scrawled Tilefish reefs and haunting wrecks from Key West the first time, or you take two full SLR set- and diver—an example of the habituation of fish to divers at the to Key Biscayne. This is for good reason. ups with you—in case you want to shoot Blue Heron Bridge as a diver gets up close and personal to a The Florida Keys could be argued to be macro and wide angle in the same Unexpected diversity Scrawled tilefish being cleaned by a juvenile angelfish; Spotted the birthplace of underwater photogra- dive—this is a place you need to experi- The Blue Heron Bridge is by no means a Moray eels are a common sight at the Blue Heron Bridge. LEFT: Location of Blue Heron Bridge, Riviera Beach, Florida on phy, and the ecosystems there have fos- ence. secret. Spanning the intracoastal water- map of the United States’ east coast. PREVIOUS PAGE: A school tered the careers of some of the world’s way, the bridge shades an ecosystem of Cownose rays in the shallows of the Blue Heron Bridge 91 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Evil eye—a Scorpionfish (far left) lurks beneath the darkness of a new moon; A Scorpionfish (left) raises his Unique Dive feature poisonous dorsal spines as a warning to a nosey photographer and his bright lights; French Angelfish and Sergeants (below)

my face.” The narrow window for us to slip below and explore this unique site opens up just one hour before high tide, as clear blue ocean water is forced in through the Lake Worth inlet, which sits just south of the bridge and washes beneath. Depending on the tide, visibility

that is one-of-a-kind—blending the tropical and the subtropical. It has attracted divers for decades. The bridge is un-divable for most of the day. Tidal currents are amplified through the narrow bridge passageways, and the visibility is classified as “I can’t see my own hand in front of

can increase from tens of centimeters to tens of meters in a matter of minutes. The transformation is striking to say the least. not only does the bridge’s proximity to the Lake Worth inlet make diving here possible, the pulsing tidal fluctuations that periodically inundate the bridge with water from the Atlantic also makes possible the incredible and unexpected diversity. Converging currents push in the planktonic larvae of a mixture of animals normally found on coral reefs and those from subtropical environments. Here, under the shelter of the bridge, they mingle and settle, adding to the establishment of a rare ecological hodgepodge of organisms. Where else can you see Arrow crabs and Horseshoe crabs in the same dive? Or Schools of Cownose rays, followed by a Manatee?

An Atlantic Spadefish swims in for a closer look 92 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED A large Arrow crab, possibly the most abundant crustacean found at the Unique Dive feature Blue Heron Bridge

ing spring tides push the oceanic branchs to the occasional blimp of water further inshore. Parking is a manatee cruising over head, but not allowed at night, however, unless you’re looking for pier type and unidentified cars are ticketed. wide-angle shots, a macro lens will Luckily, this is easily remedied. Most be your best bet. Just don’t blame local dive shops keep close tabs on me when the manatee family shows the tides and often organize group up, and they won’t fit in the frame. night dives at the bridge that anyone benefit to shooting under the one is free to join. Just show up a bridge is that, for better or worse, the dive shop ahead of time, put animals here have become com- your name and license plate on the pletely habituated to the presence list, and the dive shop will make sure of divers. While we could argue you surface without a parking fine about the ecological ramifica- stuck to your windshield. tions of this all day, it does make Getting the shot getting the shot easier, even for From a photographer’s point of those new to underwater photog- view, it is hard to decide what to raphy. Normally skittish Angel and be prepared to shoot here. Subjects Spadefish practically swim up to range from infinitesimally small nudi- greet you.

Under the Blue Heron Bridge, you an hour before high tide, visibility will idea to head back to shore before never quite know what you will see. be good, but there will still be some the current picks up too much, which Which is why I keep going back. I current. For this reason, many divers can make your egress difficult. have yet to be disappointed, and will wait until 30 minutes before high bring a light. Even at high noon have taken some of my favorite pho- tide to get in. If you don’t mind a bit on a sunny day, the lighting directly tographs there. of current, getting in before everyone under the bridge may as well be the else is worth the extra fin kicks. dead of night. What you need to know the deepest point is less than 7m, speaking of night, diving the bridge Don’t expect to just show up and so it is more likely that your bottom after the sun goes down brings out dive at the Blue Heron Bridge. This time will be dictated by the tides and a whole different group of animals dive requires a bit of research before not your air. You will know it is time and is well worth the effort especially hand. Make sure you check the tides to get out when the visibility starts to on a full moon, as the accompany- ahead of time. Arrive 1.5 hours prior decrease as the tide begins to go to high tide to allow time to assemble out. Generally, the visibility will drop A Horseshoe crab attempts to dive and camera gear, and then get before the current picks back up, burry itself in the sand to rest wet a full hour before high tide. At so once you notice this, it is a good until nightfall when it will emerge again to scavenge for food 93 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Lined seahorses (left) are uncommon in Florida waters, but this one seems right at home nes- Unique Dive feature tled among the hydroids and algae Due to heavy usage and its location, trash is unfortunately a common feature at the Blue Heron Bridge. A small Spotted Moray eel (below) shows his teeth in disapproval

Take the bad with the good While the Blue Heron Bridge is a popular dive site, it is also a public park that is popular with many other user groups. On the west side of the dive site is a heavily used fishing peer—be careful not to get caught, literally. Also, watch out for hooks and monofilament while diving and besides the obvious angelfish greet- expect to dive. I’ve seen some of the best always take a knife or shears incase of ings, make sure to keep an eye trained reefs and wrecks that Florida has to offer, entanglement. You will also see trash on things you wouldn’t normally look at. but if the tides are just right for a quick —a lot of it. I have seen it all under the Many of the rarest and most interesting weekend dive with good promise for cre- bridge, from beer bottles and chicken inhabitants of the bridge like the Lined ating great images, you’ll know where to bones (I hope) to an entire barnacle- Seahorse—a rare sighting in Florida—are find me. encrusted bicycle. While it is dishearten- well camouflaged against the tangled Adam St.Gelais holds a Master’s degree ing to see, it can make for some com- mass of hydroids and algae. Further still, in marine biology, and the research that pelling photographs. If you choose to many photo-worthy and rare animals—like comes with it has made possible his foray dive towards the west side of the bridge, the Scotch Bonnet snail, which spends the into underwater photography. His cur- make sure to stay out of the channel daylight hours buried deep in the sand— rent research focuses on the reproductive as there can be heavy boat traffic. So, emerge only under cover of darkness. ecology of corals. His studies have taken make the best of it, enjoy the dive, and so, the next time you’re vacationing in him from Alaska to Dominica with camera always remember: Safety first! ■ Florida, take a day away from the crowd- in tow. You can see his photography and ed, expensive charter boats and see what follow his travels at www.atsphotographic. This Scotch Bonnet snail hides buried in you can find in some places you wouldn’t com. ■ the sand during the day and emerges at night to forage the sand for food 94 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Haiti Metal Art of the Sea

PORTFOLIO

95 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED portfolio Haitian Metal Art

X-RAY MAG: Tell us about Haitian HMA: I am the mother of seven chil- working on many designs with steel metal art, how it started, evolved and dren. I studied folk art painting in the drum artists who were creating the uses recycled materials. United States and Switzerland. I first ethnic metal art. HMA: This particular art form was came to Haiti in 1970 to help estab- born in Haiti in the early 1950’s by a lish an orphanage. While here, I felt X-RAY MAG: Tell us about your artists simple blacksmith, Georges Liautaud. the need to help employ the Haitian and workshop. In his small shop, he made and people. After my children had “left HMA: Each man resides in the small repaired tools and created primitive the nest” in 1982, I moved to Haiti to towns of Citi Soleil or Croix des metal crosses, for the graves in the work with some of my own designs Bouquet, which are adjoining Port au Croix-des-Bouquets, Haiti cemetery. to be painted on wood. This evolved Prince, Haiti. Each new artist appren- It was at the encouragement of an into painting on recycled metal tices under a master metal artist, American teacher, DeWitt Peters, drums, a variety of brightly hand called a “boss metal”, beginning who in 1944 opened the Le Centre painted tropical with preparing the drums by burn- d’Art in Port-au-Prince that Georges wall hangings. I ing and pounding out the Liautaud expanded into the creation branched drums into flat “can- of decorative metal sculptures. out into vases”. After the We have worked in the production apprentice and sales of handcrafted art in Haiti has learned since 1982. These include hand paint- the skills ed metal wall art, stained glass sun of work- catchers and jewelry boxes and ing the the ethnic steel drum Haitian metal art. the Haitian steel drum metal art is hand cut, with hammer and chisel, from a flattened, recycled 50-gallon steel drum. (The chisel is made from recycled steel truck springs.) The drum is initially set on fire to burn off paint Detail of La Mer, Handcrafted Haitian Metal Art Wall Hanging, 24 inches. Price: US$84.95 and residue, then cut PREVIOUS PAGE: Out For A Swim, Metal Steel Drum Turtle Wall Decor, 24x18 inches. Price: US$69.95 apart and flattened. The design is drawn on to the 34” x 72” piece Edited by Gunild Symes of steel. The 24” tops and Photos courtesy of Mimi Namphy, Haitian Metal Art bottoms are also used for many of our round wall art In Haiti, folk artists create beautiful works of art from recycled materials, designs. After completion such as old steel drums, and transform them into enchanting pieces filled of the design, it is finished with three coats of a clear rust with intricate handwork, details which are inspired virtuosity in metal tech- preventative solution, making the niques as well as compelling expressions of Haitian folklore, culture and piece suitable for indoor or outdoor The a close relationship with the sea. X-RAY MAG’s Gunild Symes interviewed use. More information and pictures Depths Mimi Namphy, gallery owner of Haitian Metal Art in Port au Prince, and can be found at: www.haitimetalart. of the Sea, com/About_Haitian_Metal_Art.html. Haitian Art found out more about these gifted artists and their struggle today to feed Steel Drum Sculpture, 34 inch- their families after the earthquake that hit Haiti in January 2010. X-RAY MAG: Tell us a little about your- es. Price: US$159.95 self and your unique gallery.

96 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED portfolio Haitian Metal Art Mermaid of the Sea, Handcrafted decorative Metal Wall Decor, Haitian steel drum art, 17x17 inches. Price: US$42.95. “All mermaids inherit the sea’s qualities. Just as the sea could be gentle and nurturing or violent and deadly, so can the mermaid. These are the same con- tradictory qualities that are seen in most mermaid legends, Tender, cruel, beautiful, loving, destroying.” — HMA

days of the earthquake, we asked our artists to come back to work, using the safe areas of the workshop and the driveway to work. We supply all of our people two meals a day. Almost everyone of our people had their home damaged or destroyed, or members of their family killed or injured. Fortunately, none of our people were killed, and only one was injured. Pictures and a brief description our experience can be found at: http://www.haitimetalart.com/Haiti_ Earthquake_News.html

X-RAY MAG: Tell us what needs your artists and operation still have in order to recover from the earthquake. HMA: All of us need to rebuild. This can be made possible by orders for our handcrafted products. We are not looking for charity. We want to provide work for our artists. Due to the vast unemployment in Haiti, support of the artist’s family (and his extended family) is very important to each artist. He is looked to, by his extended family, for the supply of food, medi- cal care, housing and schooling for children. It is said that each employed person in Haiti has 15 to 20 people who are looking to him financially.

X-RAY MAG: How can readers help? design into the metal, he may branch out into We do not sell locally in Haiti. All of our sales HMA: Place orders, so that we can provide designs of his own. Naturally, the quality of the are to buyers throughout the world via our web- employment for our artists. workmanship varies with each metal artist. We sites. hold very high standards and do not work with X-RAY MAG: What role does ocean art play in anyone who cannot give us the quality we X-RAY MAG: Tell us how the recent earthquake Haitian society? require. affected your operations and how you are far- HMA: The mermaid figures in Haitian folklore We have a covered workshop that is situated ing today. date back to African beliefs and to reported among trees and is open on three sides to the HMA: Our private home was completely sighting of mermaids by Christopher Columbus fresh air. It is a very pleasant working environ- destroyed in the earthquake. This was one of ment for our artists. Some of our metal artists do the historic homes of Port au Prince. We have their work here, and others do the work at their our workshop in the adjoining property. This was Ocean Musical Combo, homes and bring the finished pieces into us for 50 percent destroyed. We have been work- Metal Wall Hanging, Haitian final inspection. ing on rebuilding the workshop. Within three Metal Sculpture, 17x34 inches. Price: US$98.95

97 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED portfolio Haitian Metal Art IN OUR NEXT ISSUE Lobsters Haitian Mermaid Arctic Diving Beneath the Saxophonist, Steel Antarctica Expedition Sea, Steel Drum Drum Art Wall Art, Haitian Hanging, 24 Metal Wall inches. Price: Decor, 24x17 US$84.95 inches. Price: US$69.95

forms of sea life are depicted in the art, as Haiti is an island of the Caribbean, sur- barb roy rounded by andrea ferrari sea life.

X-RAY MAG: I noticed a lot of musical influence in the mermaid and fish themes... can you tell us about that and how it ties in with Haitian receipt andrea ferrari culture? of andrey Bizyukin HMA: In Haitian culture, order. the mermaid depicts La We air Siren, the Vodou spirit who freight our enchants sailors with the melo- orders from dies of her trumpet or other Haiti every two musical instruments. the weeks to Miami, where earthquake? they clear customs. They are X-RAY MAG: If you are a diver, HMA: We have two web- then shipped with Fed Ex please tell us about your sites offering the natural Ground or the Post office to U.S. favorite dive locations in Haiti. steel drum Haitian metal addresses or internationally. HMA: I am not a diver, but I do art: HaitiMetalArt.com and off the coast of Haiti. (Experts ent identities. She can be seen know that through the 1970’s HaitiCheri.com. We offer hand- X-RAY MAG: Anything else you

believe that it was manatees as a beautiful and engaging and 1980’s, Haiti was quite painted metal tropical wall would like our readers to know? andrey Bizyukin that he had seen.) The Haitians young woman. She can also be popular with divers. The tourism décor, hand-cut from recycled HMA: I am an American, but believe that the mermaid pro- viewed as hideous and destruc- industry has fallen off since then, steel drums on TropicDecor. it has been my desire for over tects them from the dangers of tive, even dangerous. The mer- therefore a drop in diving loca- com, TropicAccents.com and 40 years to help the people of the sea and is a revered figure maid is believed to either pro- tions. TheGiftSellers.com. Our stained Haiti economically. After rais- COMING IN JULY 2010 in Vodou worship. The mer- tect fishermen, swimmers, boat- glass designs can be seen at ing seven of my own children, I Subscribe now FREE! maid (or la sirèn) is associated ers and others on the water, or X-RAY MAG: How can people AccentonGlass.com. began living and working in the with the goddess Ezili, or Erzuli, else causes them to drown. order work from you and what is in most cases, we ship orders arts field in Haiti and am fulfilling www.xray-mag.com who takes on several differ- it is only natural that other the turn-around time now after in one to two weeks after that initial desire. ■

98 X-RAY MAG : 36 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED