1 Balderton, St Giles The oldest parts of the present church are the Norman north and south doorways, the north entrance to the porch being particularly M1 superb with a carved 12th century figure of M18 the Virgin Mary in a niche above; inside is a Great North Rd 15th century oak door. M18 In the south aisle window is glass depicting the Adoration of the Lamb by artist W Wailes. There are also many fragments of A638 19 Austerfield medieval glass. Other notable features include the early A614 14th century font, the outstanding octagonal spire, the brass lectern, which came from A631 18 the church at Cotham when it fell into disuse, and the remarkable set of medieval pew ends, with carvings of rabbits, hounds and M1 grotesques. Scrooby 17 A631 A638 2 Newark, St Mary Magdalene 16 In medieval times Newark was one of the largest towns in . Although Blyth Great North Rd there was probably a church on the site in * Saxon times, the earliest parts of the present 15 Sutton-cum-Lound church, in the crypt, date from c1180. There are two chantry chapels dating from about 1500, one with fine wall paintings A638 depicting the ‘Dance of Death’. A1 Visible from many miles away, St Mary’s 14th century spire is 14 reputed to be the fifth tallest parish church 13 14 spire in the country. A57 14 It is said that during the 17th century, Great North Rd the church tower served as a look-out Ordsall 12 A638 point for the Newark garrison during the Civil War sieges – a cannonball hole A57 Eaton Headon in the spire is possible evidence. Most of Gamston * A1 * the stained glass windows, which had * survived the Reformation, were destroyed Askham at this time, though fragments were West Drayton gathered together and can now be seen in * * A1 A57 the east window of the Holy Spirit Chapel. A57 To LINCOLN u After the capitulation of the town, Parliamentarian soldiers are A614 said to have stabled their horses in the church. West Markham 11 A1 Also in Newark are St Leonard’s, St Augustine’s and Christ 10* Church; information about these can be found on our website. Great North Rd 9 Normanton-on-Trent 3 , St Wilfrid 8 Weston St Wilfrid’s today is a stone-built, Grade I listed building. The north A1 aisle is narrow, approximately 4ft wide and almost certainly dates 7 Sutton-on-Trent from the 14th century; the north door is 13th A614 century and was most likely A616 moved when the north aisle Carlton-on-Trent was added. The tower has 7 6 stonework from the 13th, 14th Sutton-on-Trent, All Saints and 15th centuries. Domesday Book records a church A south aisle window and a priest in Sutton-on-Trent, Cromwell contains glass showing the although today there are no traces 5 of fabric earlier than the 13th arms of William Smith, bishop Great North Rd of Lincoln 1496-1513. century visible. To the south of the chancel is the North South 4 Muskham rich and ornate Meering Chapel, 4 Muskham , St Wilfrid dated to c.1525. Local legend has it A616 3 A46 Originally consisting of simply a chancel and nave, the church dates that the Chapel was brought across the from the church A1 back to the end of the 12th century. at the village of Meering which has Notable features include the stone seats now vanished. In truth, it was the A617 A46 A17 around the 13th century pillars of the north changing course of the river that cut 2 aisle, which were used off the once-neighbouring hamlet. A1 Between the south aisle and the To Southwell by the sick and infirm Newark- Meering Chapel is a rare survival in the days before on-Trent pews. This arcade is of an intact rood screen and loft, Great North Rd the oldest visible part complete with stairs. The design of the church, and appears to be of the 1520-30s. 1 Balderton remarkably one of the There are fragments of medieval glass in the chancel and the east capitals has traces of window is by Wailes. In the chancel are a few “poppyheaded” pew original painting. ends, probably dating from the 15th century. The chancel contains some interesting memorials and the 15th century north aisle 8 was financed by a local wool merchant, John Barton of Holme, and Weston, All Saints do tend to be locked. As an alternative, with a slight diversion you his initials and symbols can be seen in the glass in the north windows. A church is mentioned in Weston in Domesday can take in East Markham St John the Baptist, Askham St Nicholas The rood screen, originally 15th century, contains the original door Book. and Headon-cum-Upton St Peter, all of which tend to be open and some late medieval carving. The church today is embellished with every day (at least during the summer). For more information on It is thought that at some point in history the lead was stripped battlements and pinnacles and dates mainly from these 6 churches visit our website www.nottsopenchurches.org.uk. off the roof leaving the church open to the wind and rain for a long the 13th and 14th centuries, although extensive Picking up the Old Great North Road (A638) again at Eaton… period, hence the bleached colour restoration took place in 1880 under architect of the oak inside the church. This E Browning of Stamford. 12 may have happened during the The chancel retains sedilia (stone seats) and Ordsall, All Hallows Civil War as many local churches two piscinae (ceremonial wash basins). There Ordsall village is suffered when Newark was under is a Norman tub font of the 12th century. Tiny mentioned in the siege, the lead being melted down for fragments of medieval glass remain. The three bells are old, one by Domesday Book and ammunition. R Mellors of dates from around 1550. its present church was probably built around the middle of 9 Normanton-on-Trent, St Matthew the 13th century; it 5 Cromwell, St Giles St Matthew’s is mainly 14th century, but parts of the north aisle are has an interesting late medieval rood screen. The Domesday Book mentions a church probably 13th century. The rood screen no longer exists but the steps It is situated in a beautiful spot on a hill above the . The in Crunwelle in 1086 but it was largely and doorway can still be seen. first known Rector was William de Bilburg, who came in 1277. rebuilt in the 13th century with a new Between the 15th century clerestory The author, John S. Piercy, who wrote ‘A History of Retford’ in tower of the 1420s. windows, there is some Georgian 1828, is buried in the churchyard. To the south the small aisle and chancel lettering from the scriptures, the one Up until the mid-18th century the Great North Road from aisle have been much changed over the nearest the tower being from the Markham Moor to was a sandy track running fairly years. Two psalms. directly through Babworth (traces can still be seen on OS maps medieval There are several stained glass marked as Old Road). In 1765 this was abandoned and windows in the windows, one of which, showing replaced with a new stretch of road running through Retford. north chancel St Philip & St George, is a memorial to wall include Philip George Turner (son of the then Vicar) who died at El Alamein remains of armorial glass. There is also in World War II. 13 Babworth, All Saints a fine example of a “flamboyant” 14th While out slightly to the east of the Old Great North Road, you may The first building of a century window to the south of the altar. wish to visit Low Marnham, St Wilfrid (NG23 6SL). church here is recorded Cromwell is one of 41 ‘Thankful Villages’ in , where all This church is now owned by the Churches Conservation Trust. It is in 1290, but the present the soldiers returned from the First World War hence there is no generally open but if locked there is a list of local keyholders at the church dates largely war memorial. entrance. from the 15th and 16th 10 centuries. 6 Carlton-on-Trent Tuxford, St Nicholas Notable features include the embattled This large church, situated in the south porch with its carved human face St Mary the Virgin historic market town of Tuxford, and grotesque creature, a decorated urn to the Rev John Simpson (d.1784) and the rare A medieval church existed on the site of has 12th century origins. The fine late Georgian, and Victorian stained glass. the present building which was linked tower is of the early 14th century The chancel and sanctuary contain furniture by Robert Thompson to the parish of Norwell. This building and the spire dates from the 1350s. who was part of the 1920s Arts and Crafts movement. Look out for contained Norman stonework was Unusually, the chancel is dated his famous carved mouse trademark. demolished in 1849. to 1495, being a gift of Thomas was curate of All Saints from 1586 until 1604. The present building was constructed Gunthorpe. It has a unique and rare His preaching in the new manner had a strong influence on the in 1849-1851. The patron was John canopy above the baptismal font. foundation of the Pilgrim movement. William Brewster from Vere, and the architect was G G Place of The White Chapel includes some interesting plaques and carvings, Scrooby and William Bradford from Austerfield, both friends of Nottingham whose grave can be found in particularly one depicting the Last Supper. A figure of St Lawrence in Clyfton and regular attendees of his services, were passengers on the churchyard. stained glass dates to c.1500, and the rood screen is also of this period. the Mayflower. The footpath to the church from their homes in Of the earlier church, a few remnants There are several fine monuments. Scrooby and Austerfield is known as the Pilgrims’ Way. remain: the south doorway of the nave, From Babworth you can either go east into Retford on the A620 or which probably dates to c.1200; a 14th century window in the north 11 West Markham (Markham north along Sutton Lane to rejoin the Great North Road A638. wall of the chancel; and the unusual bellframe, which has been tree-ring dated to c.1530. Clinton), All Saints and the Milton The interior contains seven stained glass windows, three dating 14 Retford churches from the period of building and four from 1860. Mausoleum Retford, Grove Street Anglo-Methodist All Saints’ church, of possible Saxon origins, is a very simple, rectangular structure. The walls are built mainly of rough stone Church with an abundance of This joint Anglican and Methodist “herringbone” work. It has church dominates the skyline as a very early south door, you travel along the Retford ring doorway, font and carvings. road. The church was dedicated Part of the original earth in 1880 and is a Grade II listed floor remains. In the late 1820s the 4th Duke of Newcastle had a new church built building. Designed by Bellamy and as a resting place for his Hardy (as was the Town Hall), the wife, Georgiana Elizabeth, who died giving birth to twins. “The church is a remarkable example of Mausoleum” was designed by Sir Robert Smirke and consecrated in Victorian architecture, and includes a 1833. It functioned as the parish church until 1949 when parishioners magnificent organ. chose to revert to using the ancient church. The Mausoleum ultimately passed into the care of the Churches Conservation Trust. At this point the Old Great North Road changes from the B1164 to the A638. If you stay on the trail, crossing the A1 at the two Markham Moor roundabouts, the next three churches are West Drayton St Paul, Gamston St Peter and Eaton All Saints, however these At the time of the Norman Conquest there were two main routes to the North through the , joining up around Bawtry. Ancient bridges, at Newark and South Muskham, show Normanton-on-Trent St Matthew (West) Retford that the Great North Road was the main route to and from York and Durham. Including Georgian wall painting. St Michael the Archangel In 1544 a traveller could take a day to ride from Doncaster to Newark and it was these lengthy Open: This church welcomes visitors all year round; A medieval church with a William Butterfield trips that established many a Coaching Inn along the route. keyholders are listed at the entrance. Victorian extension, rare organ and unusual spire. NG23 6RQ Open: Every Thursday lunchtime in April and October The journey times were shortened over the following decades. In 1603 one particularly swift the church is open for organ recitals. Also open on May messenger took news of Queen Elizabeth I’s death to her successor James VI of Scotland in Tuxford, St Nicholas Day and for Heritage Open Day every September. in only 60 hours. A feat that may have fuelled the story of Highwayman Dick With a rare canopy above the baptismal font. DN22 7AY Turpin in the following century making the ride from London to York in less than 15 hours. Open: This church is open to visitors on Wednesday mornings. (East) Retford, St Swithun By 1832 the journey between the two capitals had been reduced to 42½ hours thanks to the NG22 0HT A grade II* listed, town-centre, cruciform church. improvements to the roads, funded by tolls. West Markham Open: St Swithun’s is open to visitors from April - Today, this trail can be followed as a day trip or can be dipped in and out of to view a few October, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays; and the rest of the year Thursdays only. Usually 11am – 2pm. churches at a time. (Markham Clinton), All Saints and DN22 6PL For more information and other possible trails see our website: the Milton Mausoleum Two fascinating churches, one medieval and one Sutton-Cum-Lound, www.nottsopenchurches.org.uk Victorian, whose histories are intricately woven together. St Bartholomew Open: West Markham church welcomes visitors all Grade I listed building with remarkably fine year round; keyholders are listed at the entrance. The chancel windows. For more information on the following churches: Cromwell, St Giles Mausoleum is open every 2nd and 4th Sunday afternoon Open: This church welcomes visitors all year round; there www.southwellchurches.nottingham.ac.uk One of only 41 villages in England where all of the soldiers returned safely from the First World War. during summer months; at other times there is a list of is a notice up in the porch of where to obtain the key. keyholders at the entrance. DN22 8PW Open: This church is open to visitors all year round. NG22 0PJ Balderton, St Giles Nearby attractions: Next door is the Vina Cooke Ranskill, St Barnabas With 12th century stone carving, medieval glass Museum of Dolls and Bygone Childhood. Ordsall, All Hallows Built by the famous Victorian architect and bench ends. NG23 6JD Including an interesting late medieval rood screen. Ewan Christian in 1878. Open: This church is generally open to visitors all Carlton-on-Trent Open: This church is open to visitors on Open: This church welcomes visitors all year round; there year round on Mondays and Thursdays. Wednesday mornings is a notice up in the porch of where to obtain the key. NG24 3NP St Mary the Virgin DN22 7TU DN22 8NJ Newark, St Mary Magdalene Built in the mid-19th century by Nottingham architect G G Place, who is buried in the Babworth, All Saints With one of the tallest spires in the country, this Scrooby, St Wilfrid churchyard. Features of the earlier medieval With rare late-Georgian stained glass and work church also has medieval choir stalls, important Famous for its connection to William Brewster church remain. by arts & crafts artist Robert Thompson. fragments of medieval stained glass and ‘Dance and the Pilgrim Fathers. Open: This church welcomes visitors all year round; there of Death’ wallpainting. Open: This church welcomes visitors all year round; Open: This church welcomes visitors all year round; there keyholders are listed at the entrance. is a notice up in the porch of where to obtain the key. Open: This church, including its coffee shop and is a notice up in the porch of where to obtain the key. NG23 6LP DN22 8ES bookshop, is open from 8.30am - 12.30pm and 1.30pm - DN10 6AJ 4.00pm Monday to Saturday, plus Sunday afternoons. Sutton-on-Trent, All Saints Retford, Grove Street NG24 1JS Anglo-Methodist Church Bawtry, St Nicholas With rare intact rood screen and loft, Including some unique east window stonework. complete with stairs. A remarkable example of Victorian architecture. South Muskham, St Wilfrid Open: This church welcomes visitors all year round; there Open: This church is open to visitors all year round. A grade I listed building dating mainly from Open: This church welcomes visitors all year round; is a notice up in the porch of where to obtain the key. the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries. keyholders are listed at the entrance. Parking: Parking is restricted around the church, but DN10 6HX NG23 6PD there is plenty of local parking. Open: This church is open to visitors all year round. Wheelchair access: Disabled access is via the ramp Austerfield, St Helena NG23 6EQ Weston, All Saints from the car park at the rear of the church. With Norman stone dragon carving and Includes a Norman tub font, sedilia and piscinae, DN22 6LB Sheela Na Gig. North Muskham, St Wilfrid and 16th century bells. With gothic rood screen and acclaimed bells. Open: This church welcomes visitors all year round; there Open: This church welcomes visitors all year round; is a notice up in the porch of where to obtain the key. Open: This church is open to visitors all year round. keyholders are listed at the entrance. DN10 6QY NG23 6GD NG23 6SW

Are you fascinated by church history? Could you help us bring church heritage to life? Nottinghamshire Churches The Southwell & Nottingham Diocese Church History Project would like to Ol d Gr e a t No r t h Ro a d hear from you! Trail

Churches are a valuable part of our heritage, being both significant guides to British architecture and important focal points within our communities. The Church History Project was set up in 1998 by the Diocese of Southwell & Nottingham in conjunction with the University of Nottingham to provide an accurate historical and archaeological record for each church and church site within the Diocese. The recent award of a Heritage Lottery Grant has enabled this work to expand into both education and tourism. The Church History Project is looking for volunteers to help research the 307 churches in Discover the fascinating history that lies along the Diocese as part of the project. this ancient stretch of road and connect with the

To get involved, or for more information about this heritage which these churches have to offer. exciting and innovative project please contact: Heather Sirrel, Church History Project Dunham House, 8 West Gate Southwell, Notts, NG25 0JL 07736 286 056 The Great North Road was once a main [email protected] church route from London to Edinburgh, until history the 1920s when it was re-designated the A1 and subsequent decades of Full training and support will be given. heritage learning welcome modernisation changed the route to www.nottsopenchurches.org.uk bypass towns. It is a road with a past to open reveal: coaching inns, highwaymen, royal churches pageants and raiding cavalry all played their part in its rich history. heritage learning welcome

(West) Retford, St Michael the Archangel You may wish to carry on to Ranskill, or go slightly off track to 18 the west now and visit the church of Blyth, St Mary & St Martin, Bawtry, St Nicholas St Michael’s is a largely medieval church which stands on the site of an 11th century priory. The position St Nicholas’s church was with a William Butterfield Victorian of the priory near the Great North Road meant that it received a built in the 12th century as extension and an exquisite and rare Father large number of travellers seeking hospitality and it was granted a chapel of Blyth. The tower Henry Willis organ. It has an unusual funds by the archbishop of York to help towards the costs of this was largely rebuilt in the 14th century spire that the architect Pugin in the 13th century. The priory buildings, including the east end 18th century but its belfry called “a poem in stone”. The church has of the church, have been lost, and the course of the road changed windows are medieval. There connections to both Queen Anne & Queen to bypass the village, but the late Gothic west tower is still is a blocked Norman doorway Mary II, and to the Bonsor family (including Nelson). Beautiful visible from the Great North Road. The church boasts the largest and 13th century east window Victorian and Edwardian stained glass adorns the windows. medieval ‘Doom’ wall painting in the north of England. with unique carved moulding on the outside - said to be one of only two of its kind in the country. There is a 15th century chapel (East) Retford, St Swithun with war memorial altar, and a superb 18th century wrought iron St Swithun’s is a large, 13th century town centre church and a major 16 Ranskill, St Barnabas screen. landmark within the town of Retford. It is built on a cruciform plan A simple church comprising with a central tower which collapsed in 1651 and had to be rebuilt. nave and chancel with a 19 The first written record of a church on the site is in 1258. western bellcote in the gothic Austerfield, St Helena The building is Grade II* listed and historically it was the ‘lancet’ style of the 13th The present church was founded in 1080 by John de Busli as corporation church of the old borough of East Retford. century, built by the famous a ‘Chapel for the people of Austerfield’. As with Bawtry, they The church contains outstanding examples of stained glass by Victorian architect Ewan previously travelled to Blyth Priory. The church’s most striking Victorian artists Clayton & Bell, O’Connor, Wailes, and Kempe, Christian in 1878. The church feature is the carved Norman ‘tympanum’ above the south door, including one designed as a Boer War memorial. serves as a ‘chapel-of-ease’ to showing a dragon. the parish of Blyth. Inside, the pillars are Norman and one features 15 Sutton-Cum-Lound a ‘Sheela Na Gig’. This is an exaggerated and St Bartholomew 17 Scrooby, St Wilfrid lewd carving of a female This fine church, a 14th century St Wilfrid’s church is Perpendicular-Gothic, a style that was figure sometimes found in Grade I listed building contains popular in the 15th century. However, it is not the significance medieval churches with many notable features, the of the architecture that makes it important, but its connection no definitive meaning. first of which being the ancient to William Brewster and the Pilgrim Austerfield is also door – likely made of Sherwood Fathers (early UK settlers in the United associated with the Pilgrim Fathers as William Bradford, later Forest oak. The chancel windows Sates). St Wilfrid’s was Brewster’s local Governor of Plymouth, Massachusetts was baptised in this church. are outstanding examples of church but he absented himself from decorated curvilinear tracery of the services as he increasingly disagreed the 14th century. Several of the bench ends are also very old; one is with them. Expelled from church, carved as a human head, thought to represent the Queen of Sheba. Brewster and fellow “Separatists” met The list of incumbents at the back at Scrooby Manor before leaving for of the church shows changes in Holland, and then America in 1620. quick succession in the late 1300s. The church forms part of the This was at a time when the Black Mayflower Trail around the area; a trail Death was raging in England and focusing on the churches and places that one can only surmise that many of were associated with the Pilgrim Fathers. these men fell victim to this terrible disease. James Brewster, brother of William Brewster, one of the Pilgrim Fathers, became Vicar in 1594 but far from emulating his kinsman’s piety, James was a decided rogue, being known for drunkenness and misappropriation of the Our thanks to Geoff Buxton and Chris Brooke for the photographs used in this leaflet. furnishings and fittings of Bawtry Hospital of which he was Master. Main front cover photo: © Mike Holmes