©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 467

Behind the Scenes

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Kuwaitis and Bahrainis were generous with OUR READERS their time and unfailingly patient with my Many thanks to the travellers who used questions. To Jan – much strength to you the last edition and wrote to us with help- in the days (and hopefully journeys) that ful hints, useful advice and interesting lie ahead. Special, heartfelt thanks to Mari- anecdotes: na, Carlota and Valentina for enduring my Hao Yan, Jens Riiis, Johann Schelesnak, Jonas absences again and again and welcoming me Wernli, Margret van Irsel, Nicole Smoot, Peter home with such love. And to Ron: I missed Schentler, Richard Bradbury, Richard Moss, having you here upon my return. Tessa Tennant Andrea Schulte-Peevers Big heartfelt thanks to the many wonderful AUTHOR THANKS people who have plied me with tips, insights, information, ideas and encouragement, with Jenny Walker special thanks to Abhi Sen, Rashi Sen, Jojo I’m always touched by the humour and Jose, Suzette Tabora, Matthias Narr and Ali goodwill of Omani friends and colleagues. Mohammed Al Mansouri. Thanks to Maj Gen Fattorini and Alex Celini for triangulating information in remote corners of . Biggest thanks to beloved Sam ACKNOWLEDGMENTS (Owen), husband, co-researcher and fellow Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, traveller in the odyssey of a volume dear to Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated our hearts. World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Anthony Ham Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344 Thanks to Helen Elfer for such wise oversight of this difficult region and to Jenny Walker, a Cover photograph: A camel caravan near much-valued, long-term virtual companion Dubai, UAE; Kami/amanaimages ©. of Middle Eastern trails. Numerous Qataris, 468 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

Butler, while the third edition Bailey, Andrew Bain, Paul THIS BOOK was written by Jenny, Andrea, Harding, Victoria Harrison, This fifth edition of Lonely Stuart, and Iain Shearer. This Rosie Nicholson, Vicky Smith, Planet’s Oman, UAE & Arabian book was produced by the Jeanette Wall Peninsula guidebook was following: Assisting Cartographer researched and written by Destination Editor Helen Gabe Lindquist Jenny Walker, Anthony Ham Elfer Assisting Layout and Andrea Schulte-Peevers. Product Editors Kate Designer Jessica Rose Rob Wagner and Mariam Nihal Chapman, Kate Kiely Cover Researcher Naomi contributed to the Saudi Ara- Book Designer Mazzy Parker bia chapter and Rob also wrote Prinsep Carolyn Boicos, the Hajj chapter. The previous Thanks to David Chris Love, Ilana Myers, Ryan edition was written by Jenny, Senior Cartographer Kemp Evans, Karyn Noble, Luna Soo, Anthony, Andrea, and Stuart Assisting Editors Sarah Angela Tinson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 469

Index

ABBREVIATIONS accommodation 20, 441, Al Noor Mosque (UAE) 333 aquariums B see also individual Al Otai, Juhaiman ibn Saif Dubai (UAE) 316-17 locations K 293 Hejaz (SA) 267 language 461-2 O Oman Al Qasba (UAE) 333 Sharjah (UAE) 333 activities 25, 27-9, 441, Q Al Qurain Martyrs’ Museum Arab Fund Building (K) 96 443 see also individual (K) 96-7 Arab Revolt 279 SA activities Al Ruweis (Q) 244 Arab Spring 394-5, 418 UAE AIDS 459 Al Saud, Abdullah ibn 292 Bahrain 78 Ain Al Thwarah (O) 184 Al Sauds, the 293 Kuwait 110 air travel 449, 451, see also 4WDs, see four-wheel Al Seifa (O) 149 Oman 206 individual locations driving Al Shafa (SA) 272 Qatar 247 air tickets 449 Al Tayibat City Museum for Saudi Arabia 291 airlines 451 International Civilisation Arabia’s Wildlife Centre A Ajman (UAE) 338-9, A’Ali (B) 70 339 (SA) 267 (UAE) 338 Al Ahmadi (K) 108 Abdullah, King (SA) 291 Al Thani family 247 Arabian people 404-9 abeyya 408 Al Ain (UAE) 365-9, 367 Al Thani, Hamad Khalifa 245 Arabian society 404-9 abras 353 Al Aqah (UAE) 378-9 Al Thani, Sheikh Khalifa bin language 461-6 Hamad 245 Abu Dhabi (UAE) 345-65, Al Aqor (O) 174 archaeological museums, Al Ula (SA) 275 346-7, 348-9, 352 Al Areen (B) 72-3 see also museums accommodation 357-8 Al Ashkarah (O) 158-9 Al Ula Museum of Archae- Al Ain National Museum Al Ayn (O) 176, 180 ology & Ethnography (UAE) 366 activities 355-6 (SA) 276 Al Corniche (K) 93-4 Bait al Baranda (O) 127 children, travel with 351 Al Wahhab, Mohammed ibn Al Corniche (Q) 227-9 Fujairah Museum (UAE) cruises 353 Abd 292 374 Al Fahidi Historic District drinking 362-3 Al Wajh (SA) 283 (UAE) 309-10 Hatta Heritage Village entertainment 363 Al Wakrah (Q) 242 (UAE) 331 Al Faisaliah Tower (SA) 257 festivals & events 356-7 Al Wukair (Q) 242 Museum of the Frankin- Al Fatih Mosque (B) 55 food 358-61 Al Zubara (Q) 244 cense Land (O) 194 Al Gharbia (UAE) 369-74 itineraries 345 alcohol 418, 422 Sharjah Museum of Al Ghariya (Q) 244 Islamic Civilisation nightlife 362-3 Bahrain 51 Al Hamra (O) 15, 171-2 (UAE) 333 orientation 364 Kuwait 105 Al Hazm (O) 186 archaeological sites 14, see postal services 364 Oman 122 Al Hoota Cave (O) 171 also petroglyphs, ruins, shopping 363-6 United Arab Emirates tombs Al Jahra (K) 108-9 sights 345-55 324, 326 A’Ali Burial Mounds (B) 70 Al Jasra (B) 71 tourist information 364 Alila Jabal Akhdar (O) 22 Ad-Diraz Temple (B) 69 Al Jazeera TV 246 tours 356 amusement parks Barbar Temple (B) 69 Al Kamil (O) 162-3 travel to/from 365 Al Hukair Funland (SA) Hili Archaeological Park travel within 365 Al Khalifa family 247 288 (UAE) 368 Abu Dhabi Cultural District Al Khor (Q) 243 Entertainment City Madain Saleh (SA) 14, (UAE) 354 Al Korar House (B) 75-6 (K) 108 275-9, 277-8, 14 Abu Dhabi Falcon Hospital Al Maha Resort & Fun City (UAE) 351 Old Al Ula (SA) 275 (UAE) 357 Spa (UAE) 331 Magic Planet (B) 66 Sar Burial Chambers Abu Dhabi Grand Prix (UAE) Al Malaa Cemetery (SA) Marah Land (O) 143 (B) 70 288 29, 356, 28 An Nu’man Island (SA) Sumhuram Archaeological Al Masjid Al Haram, see 283 Park (O) 201 Grand Mosque animals, see wildlife, Taima (SA) 284 Map Pages 000 Al Mintirib (O) 165 individual species Ubar (O) 203-4 Photo Pages 000 Al Mouj (O) 135 Antiquities Museum (SA) 261 Wadi Dam (SA) 284 470 architecture 11, 15, 25, money 51, 83-4 boat tours insurance 453 411-12 opening hours 84 Abu Dhabi (UAE) 356 road accidents 437-8 Al Faisaliah Tower (SA) politics 78-9 Dubai (UAE) 318 carnet de passage 453 257 safety 53 Khasab (O) 190 cash 445 Burj Al Arab (UAE) 314 telephone services 84 Muscat (O) 136, 138 castles 23 Burj Khalifa (UAE) travel seasons 50 boat travel 450-1, see also Bani Bu Hassan Castle

INDEX INDEX 311-12, 11 travel to/from 84-5 dhows (O) 162 Burj Mohammed bin travel within 85 Bodin, Jean-François 230 Bilad Sur Castle (O) 151 Rashid (UAE) 345 visas 84 books Castle Al Ula (SA) 276 Dubai (UAE) 309 A-C Bahrain Fort Complex (B) Arabian plants 432 Ibri Castle (O) 181  Katara (Q) 227 16, 69-70 Bahrain 80 Jabrin Castle (O) 179-80 (Kingdom Center (SA  Bahrain International desert 430 Khmazera Castle (O) 189 257-8 Circuit (B) 71-2, 73 food 423 Old Castle Museum Kuwait Towers (K) Bahrain National Museum health 458 (O) 163 91-2, 24 (B) 53, 55 Sunaysilah Castle Masdar City (UAE) 358 Islam 417 Bahrain National Theatre (O) 151 Oman 211 Oman 217 (B) 22, 55 Tabuk Castle (SA) 280-1 area codes 19 Sharjah International Bandar Jissah (O) 147-8 Book Fair (UAE) 334 Taqah Castle (O) 201 art 412, see also galleries Bandar Khayran (O) 149 border crossings 449, 450 Cave of Thor (SA) 288 ATMs 444 bargaining 21, 444 Bahrain-Saudi Arabia caves Ayjah (O) 151, 153 Barka (O) 186-7 70, 85 Oman 163-4, 171, 178, Ayoon (O) 201 Barr al Hickman (O) 159 Kuwait-Saudi Arabia 119 215 bartering 444 Oman-UAE 187, 219, Saudi Arabia 288, 289 B Bat (O) 15, 180 344, 390 caving 178, 215 Bab Al Bahrain (B) 56 bathrooms 447 Qatar-Saudi Arabia 253 cell phones 18, 447 Bab Al Shams Desert Re- Batinah Plain (O) 181-8 UAE 390 children, travel with 43-4, sort & Spa (UAE) 331 Battle of Tabuk 280 bowling 428, 460 Badiyah (UAE) 378 beaches Manama (B) 57 Doha (Q) 236 Bahla (O) 179-80 Abu Dhabi (UAE) 347, Bridge to Nowhere (K) Dubai (UAE) 319 Bahrain 47, 50-85, 52, 356 109 Kuwait City (K) 99 54-5 Al Jazayer Beach (B) 73 Bubiyan Island (K) 109 Manama (B) 66 accommodation 50, 83 Al Seifa (O) 149 budget 19 Muscat (O) 143 activities 58 Dubai (UAE) 316, 323 bull butting 377, 414 Oman 215 arts 81, 82 Masirah (O) 159-60 Buraimi (O) 181 Saudi Arabia 297 books 80 Mirbat (O) 202 Burj Al Arab (UAE) 314-15 UAE 385 budget 51 Muscat (O) 135 Burj Khalifa At the Top Sky climate 18, 27, 28, 29 climate 50 Qurayat (O) 149 (UAE) 22 climbing 178, 215 culture 80-1 Qurm Beach (O) 134 Burj Khalifa (UAE) 11, 22, clothing 20, 408-9 currency 83 Red Sea Coast (SA) 14, 311-12, 11 coffee 421-2 customs regulations 83 283, 14 bus travel 22, 318, 449, comedy 238 452 drinks 51 Saudi Arabia 296 consulates 442, business hours 19, 445 embassies 83 Sohar (O) 182 see embassies environment 81-3 Yitti (O) 148 corniches 17, 414 environmental issues customs 407, 408 C Abu Dhabi (UAE) 347, 82-3 Bedouin heritage 406 camel racing 354, 348-9 exchange rates 51 Bedouin lifestyle 406 Al Mintirib (O) 165 Dubai (UAE) 323 food 50, 51, 84 Bedu (Bedouin), the 293 Kuwait 109 Doha (Q) 17, 227-9, 17 highlights 52 Beit Sheikh Isa Bin Ali Al Qatar 231 Jeddah (SA) 266 history 79-80 Khalifa (B) 74 United Arab Emirates Khor Fakkan (UAE) 377 holidays 84 bicycle travel, see cycling 383 Kuwait City (K) 93-4, internet access 83 Bilad Sayt (O) 173 camels 381, 406, 413, 2 Muscat (O) 126-7 internet resources 51 Bir Zekreet (Q) 244 farms 71 Seeb (O) 147 itineraries 51 Bird Souq (Q) 227 markets 263-4 Sur (O) 151 legal matters 83 birdwatching racing 242, 264, 273, courses maps 83 Khor Kalba (UAE) 378 406, 413 crafts 98 Muscat (O) 135 camping 13 desert driving 392 Birkat Al Mawz (O) 174 car travel 449-50, 452-5 diving 274 Map Pages 000 Birthplace of Mohammed driver’s licence 452-3 language 57, 138, 231 Photo Pages 000 (SA) 285 hire 453 sailing 138, 231 471 courtship Muscat (O) 138 itineraries 308 exchange rates 19 Saudi Arabia 294 Red Sea Coast (SA) 14, medical services 328 Bahrain 51 crafts 15, 23, 411 283, 14 nightlife 325-6 Kuwait 87 Bahrain 59, 71, 82 Salalah (O) 195 postal services 328 Oman 122 courses 98 Saudi Arabia 296 shopping 327-8 Qatar 223 Kuwait 98 Sawadi (O) 187 sights 308-17 Saudi Arabia 256

Oman 144, 182, 210, 217 Tabuk (SA) 281 tourist information 328 United Arab Emirates 305 INDEX Qatar 250 United Arab Emirates tours 318-19 expatriates 38-46, 405 credit cards 445 375 travel to/from 328-9 bureaucracy 44-5

celebrations 46  C-F currency 18 Yanbu (SA) 274 travel within 316, 329-30 Doha (Q) 17, 225-41, 228- daily life 38-9  customs regulations 441-2 Dubai Canal (UAE) 315 etiquette 41, 42-3 cycling 451-2 9, 232-3, 17 Dubai Mall (UAE) 312-13, family life 43-4 Abu Dhabi (UAE) 355 activities 230-1 327, 26 food 425 Hajar Mountains (O) 178 arts 227 Dubai Marina (UAE) 315, health 44 children, travel with 236 28, 45 Muscat (O) 135 housing 44 courses 231 Dubai Shopping Festival internet resources 46 dangers 240 (UAE) 27 legal issues 39-40 D drinking 237-8 Duqm (O) 204-5 transport 45-6 Damanayat Islands (O) 188 emergency services 240 women 43 dance 410 entertainment 238 E work 40, 42-3 Dubai International events 231 Dance Festival (UAE) economy 395, see also 29 festivals 231 individual countries Oman 210-11 history 225 ecosystems 430-2 F Fahaheel (K) 108 Qatar 249-50 malls 239-40 Eid al Adha 29 Failaka Island (K) 107-8, 111 medical services 240 Eid al Fitr 28, 29 UAE 384 Faisal, King 293 money 240 Ekma (SA) 276-7 dangers, see safety Fakieh Aquarium (SA) 267 nightlife 237-8 electricity 442 Dar Al Athar Al Islamiyya Falcon Souq (Q) 226 (K) 93 shopping 238-40 embassies 442 falconry 226, 357, 413-14 Dar Island (B) 78 sights 225-30 Bahrain 83 family life 407-8 dengue fever 458 sleeping 231-5 Kuwait 117 FANAR Qatar Islamic tourist information 240 desert 11, 24-5, 430-1 Oman 215 Cultural Center (Q) 231 driving 17, 392, 454 tours 231 Qatar 252 Ferrari World Abu Dhabi Empty Quarter, the (Rub’ travel to/from 240 Saudi Arabia 297 (UAE) 355 Al Khali) 11, 220, 430, travel within 231-2, 240 UAE 386 festivals 27-9, see also 2-3, 10 Doha Fort (Q) 227 Emirates Palace (UAE) sporting events, desert camps Doha Golf Club (Q) 231-2 346 individual locations Ras Al Khaimah (UAE) dolphin watching Empty Quarter, the (Rub’ Al Gharbia Watersports Festival (UAE) 371 342 Bahrain 58 Al Khali) 11, 220, 430, Art Dubai (UAE) 319 Sharqiya (Wahiba) Sands Muscat (O) 138 2-3, 10-11 (O) 11, 165-7, 17, 26 environment 429-34 Dubai International Dance dress codes 20 Festival (UAE) 29 desert driving 17, 392, 454 drinks 421-2, see also Bahrain 81-3 dewaniya 114 Dubai International Film alcohol, individual hazards 460 Festival (UAE) 319 Dhofar (O) 16, 194-205 locations Kuwait 104, 115-16 Dubai Shopping Festival dhows 151-2, 189-90, glossary 426-7 Oman 166, 205, 211-13 (UAE) 319 195, 351 language 462-3 pollution 433-4 Emirates National Auto Diana’s Viewpoint (O) 174 tea 409 Qatar 250-1 Museum (UAE) 371 diarrhoea 460 driving, see car travel rubbish 433-4 Hala Festival (K) 99 Dibba (UAE) 379 Dubai (UAE) 308-30, 316, Saudi Arabia 295-6 Jenadriyah National Dilmun empire 79 310, 312-13, 316-17, 15 UAE 294-5 Festival (SA) 261 diphtheria 458 accommodation 319-22 water 433 Liwa Date Festival (UAE) 370 Dir’aiyah (SA) 264-5, 265 activities 317-18 ethnic diversity 406 Liwa International disabilities, travellers with beaches 323 etiquette 447-8 Festival (UAE) 370 building projects 309 business 42-3 Oman 218 Muscat Festival (O) 27 children, travel with 319 cultural Qatar 253 Salalah Tourism Festival drinking 325-6 considerations 41 (O) 29, 196 discount cards 446 emergency services 328 dress 20 Sharjah Biennial (UAE) diving entertainment 326-7 mosques 21 334 Jeddah (SA) 269 festivals & events 319 events 27-9, see also Sharjah International Khasab (O) 190 food 322-5 festivals Book Fair (UAE) 334 472 Filim (O) 159 Riffa Fort (B) 71 H Bait Al Naboodah (UAE) film 394 ,412 Rustaq Fort (O) 185 Hajar Mountains (O) 172-3, 332 fishing Sohar Fort (O) 182 178, 185 Dir’aiyah (SA) 264-5 Muscat (O) 138 Umm Salal Mohammed hajj 34-7, 284-7, 286, 287 Hatta Heritage Village Salalah (O) 196 Fort (Q) 243 halal 324 (UAE) 331 Five Pillars of Islam 416-17 four-wheel driving 17, 71, Haql (SA) 283 Historic Quarter (SA)

INDEX INDEX 274 Fizayah (O) 203 199, 214-15 Hasik (O) 22, 203 Jazirat Al Hamra Fishing food 22, 419-28 Jebel Shams (O) 13, Hatta (UAE) 331-2 178, 13 Village (UAE) 341-2 Arabian 419-22 Hawar Islands (Q, B) 248 Jebel Khuraibah (SA)

F-I sand (UAE) 372  Asian 422 Hayma (O) 204 275

Saudi Arabia 296  Bedouin 422-3 health 44, 405-6, 457-60 Madain Saleh (SA) 14, Sharqiya (Wahiba) Sands dates 419 books 458 275-9, 277-8, 14 (O) 11, 165-7, 17, 26 customs 423-4 insurance 457 Masmak Fortress (SA) frankincense 16, 207, 397-8, eating with children 428 internet resources 457-8 257 399, 16 etiquette 424 vaccinations 457 Muharraq Island (B) 15, Fujairah City (UAE) 374-7, glossary 426-7 women 460 74-8, 75 376 habits 423-4 heat exhaustion 460 Old Al Ula (SA) 275 language 462 heatstroke 460 Shindagha Historic local cuisine 425 G Hejaz (SA) 266-74 District (UAE) 311 Ramadan 425 galleries Hejaz Railway (SA) 279, Umm Al Daraj (SA) 276 seafood 425 Abu Dhabi Louvre 284 history 396-403, see also (UAE) 22 individual locations tours 319 hepatitis A 458-9 Al Riwaq Art Space hepatitis B 459 British influence 400-1 traditional snacks 428 (B) 59 Heritage House (Q) 230 dinosaurs 396 vegetarian & vegan 428 Albareh Art Gallery (B) 59 Heritage Police Station first humans 396 football 414 Arabesque Art Gallery (Q) 226 frankincense 397-8, 399 Formula One Grand Prix (B) 59 Hejaz Railway (SA) 279 (UAE) 29, 356, 28 Bahrain Arts Society hiking 443 Islam 398-9, 415 Formula One Racetrack (B) (B) 59 Hajar Mountains (O) 178 71-2, 73 Busaad Art Gallery (B) 74 Jebel Al Lawz (SA) 284 Lawrence of Arabia 401 forts 16, 23 Crafts Centre Gallery & Misfat (O) 173 Mecca (SA) 34-7, 284-91, Al Ayjah Fort (O) 153 Workshop (B) 59 Muscat (O) 135-6 285, 35 Al Hayl Fort (UAE) 375 Dar al Athar al Islamiyya Oman 215 Nabataeans, the 275 Al Jahili Fort (UAE) 366 (K) 22 Wadi Shab (O) 155 oil 402-3 Al Jalali Fort (O) 131 Dubai (UAE) 315 Hilf (O) 160 pearling industry 402 Al Mintirib Fort (O) 165 Gallery Al Riwaq (Q) 229 historic buildings, see also Portuguese occupation 400 Al Mirani Fort (O) 131 Gallery Sarah (O) 131 architecture La Fontaine Centre of Saudi Arabia 291-4 Bahla Fort (O) 179 Al Jasra House (B) 71 Contemporary Art Al Kateb House (SA) 272 trading routes 396-8, 397 Bahrain Fort Complex (B) 59 (B) 16, 69-70 Bait al Maqham (O) 135 hitching 455 Mathaf (Q) 229-30 Barka Fort (O) 186 Beit Dickson (K) 94 HIV 459 Modern Art Museum holidays 29, 46, 446 Buraimi Fort (O) 181 (K) 94 Beit Kaki (SA) 272 horse racing 238 Dhayah Fort (UAE) 341 Pottery Workshop (B) 70 Beit Seyadi (B) 74 Doha (Q) 227 Sharjah (UAE) 333 Beit Sheikh Isa Bin Ali Al horse riding 413 Fujairah Fort (UAE) 374 gardens, see parks & Khalifa (B) 74 Bahrain 58 Khasab Fort (O) 189 gardens Hejaz Railway Station Muscat (O) 136 Masmak Fortress (SA) gay travellers 386, 442 (SA) 278 Sawadi (O) 188 257 geography 429-30 Heritage House (Q) 230 Sir Bani Yas Island Mutrah Fort (O) 129 geology 429 Naseef House (SA) 269 (UAE) 373 Nakhal Fort (O) 183 Oman 185 National Assembly hot springs Building (K) 95 Nizwa Fort (O) 169, 16 go-karting 72 Khatt (UAE) 343 Sharbatly House (SA) Qala’at Arad (B) 76 Rustaq (O) 184 Gold Souq (Q) 227 269 Qasr Al Hosn (UAE) 345 Hussein, Saddam 113 golf 231 Historic Quarter (SA) 274 Ras al Hadd Fort (O) 158 Bahrain 58 historic sites, see Red Fort (K) 108 Grand Mosque (Mecca; also archaeological I SA) 285, 286-7, 286-7, sites, castles, forts, Ibra (O) 167-8 286, 287 palaces, tombs, Unesco Ibri (O) 180-1 Grand Prix 72, 73 World Heritage Sites ice skating Map Pages 000 Green Island (K) 97-8 Al Fahidi Historic District Doha (Q) 236, 240 Photo Pages 000 (UAE) 309-10 gypsum 250 Jeddah (SA) 266 473 Kuwait City (K) 98 Jebel Hafeet (UAE) 369 culture 110, 114-15 Lawrence of Arabia 401 Manama (B) 57 Jebel Harim (O) 193 currency 117 Lawrence, TE 230, 279 Muscat (O) 143 Jebel Humr (O) 160 customs regulations 117 legal matters 39-40, 444, insect bites 460 Jebel Jais (UAE) 13 drinks 87 see also individual countries Incense Route 397-8, 397 Jebel Jais Drive (UAE) 22 embassies 117 lesbian travellers 386, 442 insurance 442-3 Jebel Jassassiyeh (Q) 241 environment 104, 115-16

Liberation Tower (K) 95-6 INDEX internet access 443-4, Jebel Khuraibah (SA) 275 exchange rates 87 see also individual Jebel Samhan (O) 22, food 86, 87, 118 life expectancy 405-6 locations 202-3 highlights 88 lifestyle 404 internet resources 19, 436 Jebel Shams (O) 13, history 109-14 literature 394, see also  I-M Bahrain 51 177-9, 13 books

 holidays 118 expatriates 46 Jeddah (SA) 14, 266-71, internet resources 87 Liwa (UAE) 11, 370, 10-11 Kuwait 87 267, 268 Iraqi invasion 93, 94, Oman 122 accommodation 269-70 96-7, 109, 113 local transport 455-6 Qatar 223 activities 269 itineraries 87 Lothan Youth Achievement Center (K) 110 Islam 12, 415-18, see also emergency services 271 maps 117 hajj, mosques food 270-1 money 87, 117-18 calendar 446 medical services 271 opening hours 118 M Five Pillars 416-17 money 271 photography 118 Madain Saleh (SA) 14, history 246-7, 415 prayer times 270 politics 109-11, 112, 113-14 275-9, 277-8, 14 holidays 447 shopping 271 religion 115 Madinat Jumeirah (UAE) internet resources 418 travel agencies 271 safety 118 315 Mecca (SA) 34-7, 284-91, travel to/from 271 telephone services 118 magazines 285, 35 travel within 271 travel seasons 86 Bahrain 85 Saudi Arabia 295 Jenadriyah National travel to/from 119-20 Kuwait 119 Sharjah Museum of Festival (SA) 27 travel within 120 Oman 218 Islamic Civilisation jihad 418 visas 118-19 Qatar 254 (UAE) 333 Jubba (SA) 264 Kuwait City (K) 90-107, Saudi Arabia 298 Islamic art 93, 94, 225, 412 Jumeirah Mosque (UAE) 88-9, 90-1, 100-1 UAE 387 Islamic extremism 314 accommodation 99-103 Mahmoud II 292 Kuwait 110 activities 97-8 malaria 459 Saudi Arabia 291 children, travel with 99 malls Islamic holidays 447 K Kaaba (SA) 286, 287, 288, courses 98 Abraj Al Beit Towers Islamic State 110, 291 (SA) 290 35, 286 drinking 105-6 Abu Dhabi (UAE) 363-4 itineraries 30-3, 30, 31, Katara (Q) 227 emergency services 106 , Doha (Q) 240 32 33 Katara Beach (Q) 231 entertainment 106 Abu Dhabi (UAE) 345 Dubai (UAE) 328 kayaking festivals & events 99 Bahrain 51 Dubai Mall (UAE) 312-13, Abu Dhabi (UAE) 356 food 103-5 Dubai (UAE) 308 327, 26 Muscat (O) 138 history 91, 93 Kuwait 87 Jada Mall (SA) 282 Khasab (O) 188-92 internet access 106 Oman 122 Kuwait City (K) 106 Khatmat Milahah (O) 187 medical services 106-7 Qatar 223 Makkah Mall (SA) 290 Khatt hot springs (UAE) nightlife 105-6 Mall of the Emirates Saudi Arabia 256 343 shopping 106 (UAE) 328 United Arab Emirates Khor Al Adaid (Q) 17, 242-3 sights 91-7 305 Manama (B) 67 Khor an Najd (O) 192-3 tours 98 Mega Mall (UAE) 337 Khor ash Sham (O) 192, travel to/from 107 193 Oman Avenues Mall J travel within 107 (O) 143 Jabal Al Nour (SA) 289 Khor Fakkan (UAE) 377-8 Kuwait House of National Manama (B) 53-69, Khor Rouri (O) 201 Works: Memorial Jabal Rahmah (SA) 289 60-1, 64 King Fahd Causeway (B) Museum (K) 96 Jabrin (O) 179-80 accommodation 57-9, 62 70-1 Kuwait Towers (K) 91-2, 24 Jalan Bani Bu Ali (O) 162 activities 57 Kingdom Center (SA) Jalan Bani Bu Hassan courses 57 (O) 162 257-8 L drinking 65-6 Jaylah (O) 154, 164 kitesurfing 161, 188 land travel 439 emergency services 68 Jazirat Al Hamra Fishing Kumzar (O) 193 language 461-6 entertainment 66 Village (UAE) 341-2 Kuwait 47, 86-120 language courses food 62-5 Jebel Akhdar (O) 17, 174-7, accommodation 117 Doha (Q) 231 history 53 175 budget 87 Manama (B) 57 Jebel Al Lawz (SA) 284 climate 86 medical services 68 Muscat (O) 138 474 Manama continued Al Fatih Mosque (B) 55 medical services 145 Miraj – The Museum nightlife 65-6 Al Noor Mosque (UAE) nightlife 142-3 (UAE) 353 shopping 66-8 333 shopping 144 Muscat Gate Museum sights 53, 55-7, 59 Al Qablateen Mosque sights 123, 126-35 (O) 132 travel to/from 68-9 (O) 168 tourist offices 145 Museum of Antiquities etiquette 21 and Traditional travel within 69 tours 138-9 Heritage (SA) 281 INDEX INDEX maps Fatima Mosque (K) 98 travel to/from 145-6 Friday Mosque (B) 57 Museum of Islamic Art Bahrain 83 travel within 146 (Q) 12, 225 Grand Mosque (K) 95 Kuwait 117 walking tours 136-7, 137 Museum of the Prophet

;M Grand Mosque (Mecca  Oman 216 Muscat Festival (O) 27 (SA) 285 ,SA) 285, 286-7, 286-7  Saudi Arabia 298 museums 23-4 National Museum (O) 286, 287 Marina Bandar al Rowdha Abu Dhabi Heritage 22, 131 Grand Mosque (O) 134 (O) 133 Village (UAE) 346 National Museum (SA) Jami al Hamoda Mosque markets, see also souqs Abu Dhabi Louvre (UAE) 257 (O) 162 camels 263-4, 366 351 National Museum Jumeirah Mosque (UAE) Ajman Museum (UAE) Complex (K) 94 craft 230 314 338 National Museum of Ras fish 268 Prophet’s Mosque (SA) Al Ain Palace Museum Al Khaimah (UAE) 341 handicrafts 331 281, 290 (UAE) 366 Natural History Museum produce 57, 230, 331, Quba Mosque (SA) 290 (O) 134 351, 360 Al Haramain Museum Shaikh Nasser Al Sabah (SA) 285-6 Oil Museum (B) 74 Masdar City (UAE) 358 Mosque (K) 98 Al Hashemi Marine Old Castle Museum (O) Masirah (O) 13, 159-62, 13 Sheikh Zayed Grand Museum (K) 97 22, 163 Mosque (UAE) 12, Masjid Al Bi’ah (SA) 289 Al Oraifi Museum (B) 76 Omani-French Museum 351-3, 4, 12 Masjid Al Khayf (SA) 289 Al Qurain Martyrs’ (O) 132 Sheikh Zayed Mosque Masmak Fortress (SA) 257 Museum (K) 96-7 PDO Oil & Gas Exhibition (UAE) 375 Mathaf (Q) 229-30 Al Tayibat City Museum (O) 134 motorcycle travel 449-50, Mazara (O) 150 for International Qatar National Museum 452-5 measures Civilisation (SA) 267 (Q) 229 Mount Almejder (SA) 276 Bahrain 85 Al Ula Museum of Science & Natural Mountain of Mercy (SA) Kuwait 119 Archaeology & History Museum 289 Ethnography (SA) 276 (K) 96 Oman 218 mountain safaris 190 Antiquities Museum Scientific Center (K) 93 Qatar 254 mountains 431-2 (SA) 261 Sharjah Art Museum Saudi Arabia 297 Mughsail (O) 203, 5 Bahrain National (UAE) 333 Mecca (SA) 34-7, 284-91, Muharraq Island (B) 15, Museum (B) 53, 55 Sharjah Fort Museum , 285 35 74-8, 75 Bait al Sifah (O) 172 (UAE) 333 medical services 458 multiculturalism Bayt al Zubair (O) 131 Sharjah Heritage Mu- Medina (SA) 290 Bahrain 81 Beit Al Balad (SA) 269 seum (UAE) 332 meningitis 459 Kuwait 114-15 Beit Al Quran (B) 56 Sharjah Maritime Mu- seum (UAE) 333-4 Mesaieed (Q) 242 Oman 209-10 Beit Kaki (SA) 272 Sheikh Saeed Al Mak- MIA Park (Q) 229-30 Qatar 248 Bidaya Museum (O) 165 toum House (UAE) 311 Mina Al Ahmadi oil spill 116 Saudi Arabia 294 Bin Matar House (B) 76 Shubra Palace (SA) 272 Mirbat (O) 202 Musandam Khors (O) Children’s Museum Sultan’s Armed Forces misbah 249 192-3 (O) 143 Museum (O) 133 Misfat (O) 172, 173 Musandam Peninsula (O) Dubai Museum (UAE) Tareq Rajab Museum mobile phones 18, 447 188-94, 309 189 (K) 93 Mohammed, Prophet 280, Muscat (O) 123-46, 126-7, Fort Museum (B) 69-70 284-5, 398-9 Umm Al Quwain Museum 130-1, 132, 133 Ghalya Museum of (UAE) 340 money 18, 19, 21, 444-5, accommodation 139-40 Modern Art (O) 129 see also individual Weaponry Museum activities 135-8 Guggenheim Abu Dhabi (Q) 230 countries (UAE) 354 children, travel with 143 Zayed Centre for Studies moneychangers 445 House of Mirrors (K) 96 courses 138 & Research (UAE) 346 Moqal Cave (O) 163-4 Kuwait House of National drinking 142-3 Zayed National Museum mosques Works: Memorial (UAE) 354 emergency services 145 Museum (K) 96 Al Badiyah Mosque music 410-11 (UAE) 378 entertainment 143-4 Makkah Museum (SA) festivals & events 139 285 Oman 210-11 food 140-2 Maritime Museum (K) 94 Qatar 249 UAE 384 Map Pages 000 history 123 Maritime Museum (UAE) Muslims, see Islam Photo Pages 000 internet access 145 354 475 Mutla Ridge (K) 109 exchange rates 122 Pearling Pathway 76-7, 77 Bahrain, relationship Mutrah Corniche (O) 126-7 food 122, 213-14, 216 pearls 68, 79-80 with 248 Mutrah Souq (O) 127-8, 129 highlights 124-5 petroglyphs 192, see also books 247 history 207-8 archaeological sites budget 223 holidays 216-17 Jubba (SA) 264 climate 222 N Jebel Jassassiyeh consulates 252 Nabataeans, the 275 internet access 216 (Q) 241 culture 222 INDEX Nakhal (O) 183-4 internet resources 122 Tawi (O) 192 currency 252 National Museum (SA) itineraries 122 legal matters 216 Wadi Bani Kharus (O) customs regulations 252 257 184-5 disabilities, travellers  M-R national parks & protected money 122, 216 photography 446 with 253 areas 432-3, see also opening hours 216  pilgrimage, see hajj drinks 223 wadis photography 216 planetariums 134 embassies 252 Asir National Park (SA) politics 206, 208 planning, see also environment 250-1 432 postal services 216 individual countries exchange rates 223 Bahrain 82 religion 210 Arabian Peninsula’s food 223, 235-7 Dubai Desert safety 217 Conservation Reserve countries 47-8 highlights 224 shopping 217 (UAE) 384 budgeting 19 history 245 telephone services 218 Kuwait 116 calendar of events 27-9 internet access 252 travel seasons 121 Oman 212 expatriates 38 internet resources 223 travel to/from 219 Qurm Nature Reserve first-time travellers 20-1 itineraries 223 travel within 219-21 (O) 134 hajj 34-7 lifestyle 248 visas 218 Ras Al Khor Wildlife internet resources 19 money 223, 252 Sanctuary (UAE) 321 Omani Market (Q) 230 itineraries 30-3, 30, 31, multiculturalism 248 opening hours 19, 445, Saudi Arabia 295 32, 33 opening hours 253 newspapers see also individual Oman, UAE & Arabian countries people 247-8 Bahrain 85 Peninsula basics oral traditions 411 politics 245 Kuwait 119 18-19 oryx 205, 212, 250, 295, public holidays 253 Oman 218 repeat visitors 22 430 safety 252 Qatar 254 travel seasons 18, 27, Owais Souq (SA) 260 28, 29 telephone 253 United Arab Emirates telephone services 223 387 visas 448 travel seasons 222 Nizwa (O) 169-71, poaching 205 5 P travel to/from 253 palaces poetry 249, 410 Nizwa Fort (O) 169, 16 travel within 254 Al Bustan Palace (O) 132 politics 394-5 visas 253 Emirates Palace (UAE) population 395, 405, 406, wildlife 250 O 346 see also individual Qatar National Museum Oases of Muntasar (O) 199 Shubra Palace (SA) 272 countries (Q) 229 Oasis of Muqshin (O) 199 Sief Palace (K) 95 potteries 179 Quba Mosque (SA) 290 oil industry 80, 110-11, 112, Sultan’s Palace (O) prayer beads 249 Quran 417 381, 402-3 130-1 Prophet Mohammed 280, Qurayah (SA) 283 oil spill (Mina Al Ahmadi, parks & gardens 284-5, 398-9 Kuwait) 116 Qurayat (O) 149-50 Al Khalidiyah Garden Prophet’s Mosque (Medina; Oman 48, 121-22, 124-5 (UAE) 351 SA) 290 accommodation 214, 215 protected areas, see Al Riyam Park (O) 129 R activities 214-15 national parks & Hawiyat Najm Park (O) protected areas rabies 459 arts 210-11 153-4 radio books 217 public holidays 29, 46, Kalbuh Bay Park (O) 446, see also individual Bahrain 85 budget 122 129-30 countries Kuwait 119 children, travel with 215 MIA Park (Q) 229 Oman 218 climate 121 Prince Fahd bin Sultan’s Qatar 254 Park (SA) 281 culture 209-10 Q UAE 387 Qurm Park (O) 134 Qalhat (O) 156 currency 216 Ramadan 29, 46, 417, 425 Sinkhole Park (O) 153-4 Qaran (O) 154 customs regulations 215 rappelling 178 Yanbu Lakes (SA) 274 Qasr Al Hosn (UAE) 345 drinks 122, 214 Ras al Hadd (O) 158 Yaum Al Bahhar Village Qatar 48, 222-54, 224 economy 206-7 Ras al Jinz (O) 156-8 (K) 96 accommodation 222, embassies 215 Ras Al Khaimah (UAE) Path of Sa’ee 286, 287, 251 environment 211-13 287 341-4, 342 activities 251-2 environmental issues pearl monument (Doha; Ras Al Khor Wildlife 212-13 Q) 229 arts 249-50 Sanctuary (UAE) 321 476 Ras Al Zour (K) 108 S travel to/from 301-2 snake bites 438 Rawdah Bowl (O) 193-4 Sa’ee, Path of 286, 287, 287 travel within 302-3 Snake Gorge (O) 173 Red Sands (SA) 266 safety 21, 436-40 visas 300-1 snorkelling 375, 443 Red Sea Coast (SA) 14, Bahrain 53 wildlife 296 Al Aqah (UAE) 378 283, 14 Kuwait 118 women travellers 301 Bandar Khayran (O) 149 religion 395, 409, 415-18 Oman 217 Sawadi (O) 187-8 Damanayat Islands INDEX INDEX Kuwait 115 Qatar 252 Sayh plateau (O) 193 (O) 188 Oman 210 Saudi Arabia 299 Scientific Center (K) 93 Khasab (O) 190 Qatar 248 UAE 388 sea travel 438-9 Salalah (O) 195 R-S Saudi Arabia 295 Saiq (O) 174 seas 432 Sohar (O) 132, 182-3  UAE 382 Saiq Plateau (O) 174 Seeb (O) 146-7 solo travellers 446-7 responsible travel souqs 12 Salalah (O) 194-200, Seeq (O) 176 Oman 217 195, 21 Serra, Richard 229 Bahla (O) 179 Riffa Fort (B) 71 Salalah Tourism Festival Shaab Leisure Park (K) 99 Doha (Q) 225-6, 227, 239 (SA) 257-63, 266, (O) 29, 196 Shahaniya (Q) 242 Dubai (UAE) 311 260, 262 sand dunes Shana’a (O) 159 Ibra (O) 167-8 accommodation 261-2 Sharqiya (O) 165-7 Sharia’a 417-18 Jeddah (SA) 268 emergency 263 UAE 372 Sharjah (UAE) 15, 332-7, Kuwait City (K) 92 entertainment 264 Sar (B) 70 334-5, 15 Muharraq (B) 76 events 261 Saudi Arabia 48, 255-303, Sharjah Biennial (UAE) Muscat (O) 127-9 festivals 261 258-9 334 Nizwa (O) 169-70 food 262-3 accommodation 296 Sharjah Desert Park (UAE) Owais Souq (SA) 260-1 internet access 263 activities 296 338 Riyadh (SA) 263-4 medical services 263 beaches 296 Sharjah Heritage Museum Salalah (O) 194 (UAE) 332 shopping 263 books 292 Seeb (O) 147 Sharjah International Book sights 257, 260-1 children, travelling Sharjah (UAE) 332 Fair (UAE) 334 travel agencies 263 with 297 Sinaw (O) 169 Sharqiya (Wahiba) Sands travel to/from 263 climate 255 Sohar (O) 182 (O) 11, 165-7, 17, 26 costs 256 travel within 263 sheesha 326, 423 Souq Gazzaz (SA) 272 culture 255 Riyadh Zoo (SA) 261 Sheikh Ebrahim bin Souq Twaheen (SA) 281 rosewater 176 diving 296-7 Mohammed Al Khalifa Souq Waqif (Q) 225-6, Royal Opera House Muscat drinks 256 Centre for Culture and 235, 13 (O) 133-4 embassies 297 Research (B) 75 spas Rub’ Al Khali (Empty environment 295-6 Sheikh Mohammed Centre Al Maha (UAE) 331 Quarter) 11, 220, 430, environmental issues for Cultural Under- Bab Al Shams (UAE) 331 standing (UAE) 313 2-3, 10-11 296 Manama (B) 57 Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum ruins, see also exchange rates 256 Sir Bani Yas Island House (UAE) 311 archaeological sites food 256 (UAE) 373 Sheikh Zayed Grand Al Diwan (SA) 278 highlights 258-9 sport 413-14 Mosque (UAE) 12, 351- Al Khuraymat (SA) 278 history 291-4 sporting events 3, 4, 12 Jebel Khuraibah (SA) internet access 298 Abu Dhabi Formula One 275 Shiite Muslims 415-16, 417 internet resources 256 Grand Prix (UAE) 29, Madain Saleh (SA) 14, Shisr (O) 199, 203-4 itineraries 256 356, 28 shopping 23, see also 275-9, 277-8, 14 Dubai World Cup (UAE) legal matters 298 malls, markets, souqs, Mount Almejder (SA) 276 319 maps 298 individual locations Nabataean Well & Al Emir’s GCC Camel Race media 298 bargaining 21 Mahajar Tombs (SA) (Q) 231 money 298 language 463 278 Power Boat GP (Q) 28 Old Al Ula (SA) 275 Mutawwa 299 Shwaymiya (O) 22 Station of Ibrahim 286, 286 Qasr Al Bint (SA) 279 opening hours 299 Sinaw (O) 168-9 stings 460 Qasr Al Saneh (SA) 278 people 294-5 Sint (O) 180 Sultan’s Palace (O) 130-1 Qasr Farid (SA) 279 photography 299 Sir Bani Yas Island (UAE) Sunni Muslims 415-16, 417 Sumhuram planning 255-6 372 Sur (O) 150-3, 151 Archaeological Park prayer times 270 Ski Dubai (UAE) 318 swimming, see also (O) 201 public holidays 299 skiing 318, 414 beaches Rustaq (O) 184-5 religious police 299 smoking 446 Doha (Q) 231 safety 257, 299 Kuwait 119 Khasab (O) 190 telephone services 300 Oman 218 Map Pages 000 Kuwait City (K) 97-8 terrorism 300 Saudi Arabia 297 Photo Pages 000 Muscat (O) 135 travel seasons 255 UAE 387 477 T U women 382-3 water shortages 104 Tabuk (SA) 279-83, 280 Ubar (O) 203-4 women travellers water sports 58, 136, 389-90 215, 443 Tabuk Castle (SA) 280 Umm Al Daraj (SA) 276 Weaponry Museum (Q) 230 Taif (SA) 271-3 Umm Al Quwain (UAE) weather 18, 27, 28, 29, 438 accommodation 272-3 340-1, 340 V weights festivals 272 Umm Salal Ali (Q) 243 vacations 29, 46, 446

Bahrain 85 INDEX food 273 Umm Salal Mohammed vegans 428 (Q) 243 Kuwait 119 sights 272 vegetarians 428 umrah 37 Oman 218 travel to/from 273 visas 448, see also

Unesco World Heritage Qatar 254  T-Y travel within 273 individual countries Sites Saudi Arabia 297  Taima (SA) 284 Al Ain Oasis (UAE) 368 whale watching 196, 138 Tanuf (O) 171 Al Ayn Tombs (O) 180 W wildlife 25 wadis 13 Taqah (O) 201 Al Zubara (Q) 244 Bahrain 82 Wadi Bani Awf (O) 172-3, Tareq Rajab Museum (K) 93 Bahla Fort (O) 179 Kuwait 115-16 184, 185 tawaf 286, 287, 287 Bat Tombs (O) 180 Oman 212 Wadi Bani Habib (O) 174 taxis 456 Dir’aiyah (SA) 264-5 Qatar 250 telephone services 18, Hili Archaeological Park Wadi Bani Khalid (O) 163-4 Saudi Arabia 296 447 (UAE) 368 UAE 384 terrorism 436 Madain Saleh (SA) 14, Wadi Bani Kharus (O) 184-5 wildlife reserves Bahrain 53 275-9, 277-8, 14 Wadi Dam (SA) 284 Al Areen Wildlife Park & Kuwait 118 United Arab Emirates 48, Reserve (B) 72 304-92, 306 Wadi Dayqah (O) 150 Saudi Arabia 291, 300 Al Wusta Wildlife Reserve accommodation 385 Wadi Dharbat (O) 202, 24 theatre 238 (O) 204 alcohol 388 Wadi Ghul (O) 177, 7 Tibat (O) 192 Ras al Jinz Turtle arts 383-4 Wadi Hoqain (O) 185-6 time 18, 446 Reserve (O) 157 budget 305, 385, 386 Wadi Khabbah (O) 164-5 tipping 21, 445 wildlife watching 338, 373, children, travel with 385 Wadi Mayh (O) 148-9 202, 24 Tiwi (O) 154 climate 304 Wadi Sahtan (O) 184-5 women toilets 447 consulates 386 Wadi Shab (O) 154-5 Bahrain 81 tombs culture 304, 382-3 Wadi Tayein (O) 164-5 expatriates 43 Al Ayn (O) 180 customs regulations 385 Wadi Tiwi (O) 155-6 in the Peninsula 407 Bat (O) 180 drinks 305 Wadi Wurayah (UAE) Saudi Arabia 294 Jaylah (O) 164 379 economy 381-2 UAE 382 Wahhabi Islam (SA) 292, Job’s Tomb (O) 201 embassies 386 women travellers 439-40, 295 Madain Saleh (SA) 14, environment 384-5 447, 460 275-9, , Wahiba Sands, see 277-8 14 exchange rates 305 Bahrain 84 Tomb of Bibi Miriam food 305, 386 Kuwait 119 (O) 156 Wajaja (O) 187 gay travellers 386 Oman 218-19 tourist information 447 walking tours government & politics Saudi Arabia 301 Dir’aiyah 265, 265 tours 451, see also boat 381 UAE 389-90 tours, walking tours Muharraq Island (B) highlights 306-7 work 42-3 train travel 456 76-7, 76 history 380-1 transport 449-56 Muscat (O) 136-7, 137 internet access 386 travel to/from the Arabian water 460 internet resources 305 Y Peninsula 449-51 water parks Yanbu (SA) 273-4 itineraries 305 travel within the Arabian Aqua Park (K) 99 Yanbu Lakes (SA) 274 legal matters 387 Peninsula 451-6 Aquaventure Waterpark yellow fever 460 lesbian travellers 386 travellers cheques 445 (UAE) 317 Yitti (O) 148 money 305, 387 Tree of Life (B) 73-4 Dreamland Aqua Park opening hours 388 (UAE) 340 tuberculosis 459 photography 388 Iceland Water Park turtle-watching Z postal services 388 (UAE) 342 Zamzam Well 287, 287 Masirah (O) 160 public holidays 388 Lost Paradise of Dilmun zoos Ras al Jinz (O) 156-7 safety 388 Water Park (B) 73 (UAE) 366 TV telephone services 389 Wadi Adventure (UAE) Arabia’s Wildlife Centre Bahrain 85 366 toilets 389 (UAE) 338 Kuwait 119 Wahooo! (B) 66 travel seasons 304 Dubai Aquarium & Oman 218 Wild Wadi Water Park travel to/from 390-1 Underwater Zoo Qatar 254 (UAE) 317 travel within 391-2 (UAE) 313 UAE 387 Yas Waterworld (UAE) Riyadh Zoo (SA) 261 visas 389 355 typhoid 459-60 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 479

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Tube station Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Jenny Walker Oman Jenny Walker has written extensively on the Middle East in Lonely Planet publications, is a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers and a Fellow of the Royal Geographic Society. She has a long academic engagement with the region (undergraduate dissertation, postgraduate thesis from Oxford University and current PhD studies at NTU on perception of Arabic Orient). Associate Dean and an executive at Oman’s leading engineering college since 2008, Jenny has travelled in 120 countries from Mexico to Mongolia. Jenny also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide chapters (with the exception of the Hajj).

Anthony Ham Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Bahrain Anthony has written more than 100 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, including Saudi Arabia, the Middle East, and Iran, and writes for magazines and newspapers around the world. He has a Masters degree in Middle Eastern politics, has travelled to 16 of the 22 countries of the Arab League and never ceases to be surprised by the kindness of anything-but-ordinary people wherever he goes. Read more about Anthony at: lonelyplanet.com/members/anthony_ham Andrea Schulte-Peevers UAE Born and raised in and educated in London and at UCLA, Andrea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to dozens of countries, including several in North Africa and the Middle East. She’s authored or contributed to some 90 Lonely Planet titles, including the last edition of this guide, the Dubai & Abu Dhabi city guide and the Pocket Dubai guide. After years of living in LA, Andrea now happily makes her home in Berlin.

Contributing Writers Mariam Nihal contributed to the Saudi Arabia chapter.

Robert Wagner contributed to the Saudi Arabia chapter and wrote the Hajj chapter.

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