Guide to Baroque Czech Republic

Edition 2017 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic

Welcome to the Czech Republic...... 2 Czech Republic, Land of Baroque...... 4 Prague “Baroque Heart of Europe”...... 8 Příbram “Heading for the Silver Altar of the Virgin Mary of Svatá Hora”...... 12 Český Krumlov “Across the Cloak Bridge to the Baroque Theatre and Gardens”... 14 Holašovice “In Pursuit of Charming Houses of Rural Baroque”...... 18 Plzeň Region “West-Bohemian Baroque Gems”...... 22 Kladruby “Uncompromising Beauty”...... 24 Karlovy Vary “Baroque Soul of an Art Nouveau Town”...... 26 Mariánské Lázně “Expedition to Cross Spring”...... 28 Teplice “Pop over to Little Paris”...... 30 Kutná Hora “Cathedral of Two Worlds”...... 32 Kuks “Following the Grand Dream of Count Špork”...... 36 Broumovsko “Churches Like Beads on a String”...... 40 Zelená hora “Santini's Ingenious Epilogue” ...... 44 Vranov nad Dyjí “Chateau in the Sky”...... 48 Mikulov “Following the Stations of the Cross to the Tomb and Synagogue”...... 52 Valtice “The Town that Grew with the Liechtensteins”...... 56 In and around Brno “Celebration of Life and Death”...... 60 Kroměříž “Gardens and Other Wonders of Athens of Haná”...... 62 Olomouc “Heading for the Largest Sculpture and Svatý Kopeček”...... 66 Wandering in Search of Baroque Ambience...... 70

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1 The Czech Republic is a landlocked In 1948 the Czechoslovak coup d'état country in Central Europe. It is a opened the door to a communist member of the European Union. regime. The Velvet Revolution of Since Jan. 1, 1993 it has been an 1989 saw an end to totalitarian rule. independent state, previously it was In January 1993, the country split into part of Czechoslovakia. The territory two separate sovereign states – the of the Czech Republic consists of three Czech Republic and the Slovak historical lands – Bohemia, Moravia Republic. and Silesia. Culture Area: 78,864 km2 Capital City: Prague For centuries, Czech culture has Administrative Structure: been an integral part of European 14 regions culture. Urban and rural architecture, System of Government: enhanced by works of art, has not Parliamentary Republic escaped the attention of UNESCO – Population: 10.4 million allowing the Czech Republic to boast Religion: roughly two-thirds of twelve listed World Heritage the population are non-believers, Sites, as well as four traditions of a Catholicism is the most widely folklore and hunting nature inscribed followed religion on the Intangible Cultural Heritage Official Language:Czech List.

History Important Personalities The beginnings of the independent Charles IV, John of Nepomuk, Jan Czech state date back to the second Hus, John Amos Comenius, Albrecht Welcome half of the 9th century. Between the von Wallenstein, Antonín Dvořák, 9th and 13th century it was ruled by Bedřich Smetana, Leoš Janáček, Emmy the Kings of the Přemyslid Dynasty. Destinn, Tomas Garrigue Masaryk, to the Czech In the early 13th century the Duchy of Alfons Mucha, František Kupka, Bohemia was elevated to a Kingdom. Tomáš Baťa, Sigmund Freud, Karel During the reign of Charles IV, King of Čapek, Jaroslav Seifert, Jiří Trnka, Republic Bohemia and Holy Roman Emperor, Václav Havel, Karel Gott, Miloš the country developed rapidly with Forman, Jiří Menzel, Emil Zatopek, Prague becoming the leading Ivan Lendl, Jaromir Jagr, Jan Železný, European metropolis. Pavel Nedved, Tomas Rosicky, Petr From 1526 to 1918 the Czech lands Čech, Martina Sáblíková, … were part of the Austrian Monarchy with the Habsburgs on the Bohemian throne. Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II is considered the most important monarch of this House. At the end of World War One, the Lands of the Bohemian Crown joined together with the territory of today's Slovakia making Český Krumlov up the Czechoslovak Republic.

2 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 3 Baroque was faith put on show. Silent humility was replaced with the love of God and man shouted from the rooftops in all directions. Then faith burst forth from the wide open gates of Houses of God and flooded the countryside. Churches adorning hills and mounds, shrines, wayside crosses, chapel shrines with deep niches carved in rock, crosses and Stations of the Cross, Plague and Marian Columns and obviously statues. But statues of quite a different ilk than before, now in full swing, overflowing with emotion and pathos, heading into the countryside and settling there, displaying beauty and numbers not to be found anywhere else in Europe. Kroměříž Šonov Baroque awakened man’s desire for beauty. The phenomenon of rural Baroque was born, adorning Czech in parks, jets and water stairs … Areas, where the state watches over Czech Republic, villages with farms, granaries and Houses of God toyed with light and the whole cultural landscape, that charming houses full of curves and shadow, huge frescoes expanded space, is to say the combined value of the Land of Baroque arches. The same transformation material was no longer important, the landscape and the structures in it. awaited towns and aristocratic importance lied in its effect on man, so Many of these places are of a Baroque residences. Building work boomed gilding, painting and stucco decorating nature and just walking or driving Despite the many influences that – new structures were erected, old was in full swing. The Czech landscape through them is truly amazing. shaped the Czech landscape in the past ones rebuilt, the landscape became became a great path full of beautiful Let us name a few – Valečsko, two hundred years, its appearance a huge well-designed and conceived stopovers and vistas. So let us together Římovsko, Bečovsko, Čimelicko, today still bears a Baroque imprint. garden. Fields were enlarged and balks plunge into Czech Baroque. Chudenicko, Lembersko, Plasko, Quite possibly nowhere else in the appeared. Meadows had no grazing Vranovsko-Bítovsko, and of course, world are Baroque buildings so cattle but harvesters with scythes Yet, Baroque is not only a time the Lednice-Valtice Complex. picturesquely and intentionally danced on them twice a year. Roads long gone by. Today Baroque sites Many Baroque sites enjoy a harmonised with the landscape, as were lined with long alleys. Landscapes represent the most attractive tourist dynamic life, offering various and often in the Czech Republic. The scenic gazed through the eyes of thousands destinations in the country sought after very unusual adventures, night and beauty and dynamism of this of ponds with raceways being built to by tourists from all over the world. It costume guided tours, tours with a landscape, so much admired by visitors service mills and saws. is not just about urban conservation story, theatre performances, concerts, from around the world, originated in areas, churches, chateaux, palaces fairs, carriage rides and trips to the Baroque giving the Czech countryside Chateaux triumphantly exhibited and minor sacral structures, but the underground, with museums focusing landmarks, dimensions and depth. balance and ostentation and landscape itself. On one hand there on Baroque thinking, architecture and gardens around them became artfully are designed Baroque landscape lifestyle being set up with festivals of Baroque was a sudden eruption of designed fantastic spots with gazebos, complexes, sadly some of the Baroque music and gastronomy emotions, dynamics, monumentality, vistas and perfectly symmetrical elements have disappeared over the thrown in. Baroque has remained one lavish decorativeness, endless shapes of flower beds and shrubs. centuries, but the idea is still evident of the important dimensions of the roundness, expressiveness and The phenomenon of that time was and fascinating. On the other hand, country. excitement, Baroque was drama, water – ponds, fountains, cascades there are Protected Landscape

4 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 5 Following the Grand Heading for the Silver Altar Churches Like Beads on a String… Baroque Heart of Europe… of the Virgin Mary of Svatá Hora… Dream of Count Špork… 8–11 12–13 36–39 40–43

14–17 In Pursuit of Charming Houses of Rural 44–47 Baroque…

Santini's Ingenious Epilogue… Across the Cloak Bridge to the Chateau in the Sky… Baroque Theatre and Gardens… 18–21 48–51

22–23 Following the Stations of the Cross to the Tomb and Synagogue…

West-Bohemian The Town that Grew with the Baroque Gems… Liechtensteins… 24–25 Uncompromising Beauty… 52–55 56–59

26–27 Celebration 60–61 Expedition to of Life and Death… Cross Spring…

Gardens and Other Wonders of Athens of Haná… Baroque Soul of an Art Nouveau Town… 28–29 62–65

Pop over 30–31 32–35 Heading for the 66–69 70–71 to Little Paris… Largest Sculpture and Svatý Kopeček…

Cathedral of Two Worlds… Wandering in Search of Baroque Ambience… Prague, Lesser Town Prague Baroque Heart of Europe

8 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 9 Jelení Pražský hrad the most striking Klementinum Hall. Malostranská Prague Its Baroque Library was voted the Prague Castle M Vltava world’s most beautiful in several polls. JOSEFOV Finished in 1722, its appearance has Staroměstská STARÉ MĚSTO hardly changed since then. Soaking up its Wallenstein Baroque Heart of Europe Palace M atmosphere is a truly unique experience. Loreto MALÁ Metro A In Baroque times Prague was one Talking about libraries, let us not forget STRANA Klementinum St. Nicholas huge construction site, changing the the Strahov Monastery with its St. Nicholas Staroměstské Strahov Karmelitská city almost beyond recognition. The Theological and Philosophical Halls, as Monastery nám. most noted European architects of that they represent not only notable examples Můstek era built here churches, palaces with of Baroque architecture, but also of arts Charles Bridge gardens, town houses and gateways and crafts. M and reconstructed monasteries embellishing everything with beautiful One of the most precious treasures of statues. It is no exaggeration to say the city is the stone Charles Bridge, 100 m Prague is still today the Baroque heart which was also completely transformed Metro B of Europe. by Baroque. Starting from 1683, statues and sculptures began making be still for a second, imparting the Experiences Early Baroque left true gems in Prague. their way onto its balustrades. Early impression that you are moving, as Many of the churches host concerts Despite war raging nearby, Albrecht Baroque changed into High Baroque the dynamic Baroque principle is so with some of the most renowned von Wallenstein decided to build a and the early 18th century witnessed powerful here. The gigantic dome next being staged in both of the Churches residence to rival or even overshadow the frenetic work of outstanding to the intricately shaped bell tower of St. Nicholas – in Lesser Town and Prague Castle itself. Twenty-three sculptors like Mathias Bernard Braun enhances this remarkable impression. Old Town as well as the Church of houses, three gardens, brickworks and and Ferdinand Maxmilian Brokoff. If you wish to understand Baroque in a St. James in Old Town. It is possible one palace had to give way to the gigantic The two lines of statues adorning the glimpse, then enter and feast your eyes. to take a guided tour around Wallenstein Palace, which is one of bridge are the most ornate and varied www.prague.eu Klementinum, exploring the Library, the most important Czech Early Baroque compared to any bridge worldwide. www.klementinum.com Meridian Hall and Astronomical Tower, structures. Surrounding the Palace, the Standing at dawn on the empty bridge www.senat.cz/informace see the Vyšehrad Codex facsimile magnificent Baroque Wallenstein at the foot of Braun's Saint Lutgardis is www.strahovskyklaster.cz exhibition, experience a romantic Garden is dominated by a sala simply unforgettable. www.stnicholas.cz dinner for two in a unique environment terrena with a nearby grotto and or take night photos of Prague from features an artificial pond, fountains and High Baroque continued on the Tips for Trips the Astronomic Tower. Troja Chateau a number of statues. Flanking the area, dignified path of its predecessors, Baroque can be explored in Prague offers tours of the interiors as well as the Wallenstein Riding School hosts creating buildings so distinctive for hours, days or even weeks. As the Baroque Garden and Clam-Gallas prestigious exhibitions organized by the that they became known as “Prague of yet we have not even mentioned Palace holds opera performances National Gallery. Baroque”. And which of the sites Loreto in Hradčany, dozens of beautiful during the Opera barocca Festival. enjoys primacy among them? palaces such as, Czernin Palace The National Gallery and the City of Not long after the picks and shovels Undoubtedly, the magnificent Church and Archbishop’s Palace, and more Prague Museum present expositions fell silent on the left bank of the River of St. Nicholas in Lesser Town. charming Baroque gardens, such as dedicated to Baroque art. Vltava, Jesuits decided to significantly Since its construction lasted the entire Vrtba Garden, for one. Just a stone’s www.operabarocca.cz expand their College, resulting in first half of the 18th century, it brought throw from Prague, there is the Veltrusy en.ghmp.cz/troja-chateau something more like a small town, called together two legends of Czech Baroque, Chateau, Skalka Pilgrimage Site and, of www.ngprague.cz Klementinum, which is, after Prague father and son Dientzenhofer. The son course, Santini’s Kutná Hora. en.muzeumprahy.cz Castle, the second largest architectural Kilian Ignatius had a major input in www.loreta.cz complex in Prague. As today it is the the church construction and actually www.vrtbovska.cz seat of the National Library, books are it was his very last project in his life. www.czechtourism.com/c/veltrusy- not surprisingly the main residents of The main frontage won’t let you chateau

10 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 11 Svatá Hora u Příbrami Mníšek pod Brdy – Skalka

real expansion in the Baroque period. portal. Svatá Hora is the most Příbram Příbram Building activities commenced in 1648 treasured site of Czech Early Baroque. headed by none other than the famous www.svata-hora.cz Plzeňská Italian Carlo Lurago. Obviously, in Heading for the Silver Altar of years to come the Svatá Hora complex Experiences the Virgin Mary of Svatá Hora would be adapted, improved, added Just visiting Svatá Hora is an amazing Jiráskovy sady (Holy Mountain) to a process which would last to the experience. So why not book a guide SvatohorskéPražská schody 20th century. The latest renovations and explore the whole area? That is, Balbínova A simple Marian chapel with a focusing solely on the reverent aspect after you have climbed the stairs, but 1,8 km hermitage used to stand on a hill along with historical correctness unlike Baroque worshippers you no 28 min Milínská above Příbram as far back as the 14th were implemented quite recently, longer need do it on your knees. Take century. Around that time a wooden leaving the whole complex newly a look at the collections of the Svatá Svatá Hora statuette of the Virgin Mary with reconstructed. Hora Pilgrimage Museum and the the Baby Jesus was carved. As all year round exhibition of Nativity fate would have it, later it appeared The list of some other masters Scenes. in this chapel. Being credited with contributing in the Baroque era to the 200 m miracles, the statuette drew crowds splendour of one of the most renowned Tips for Trips of pilgrims from all over Europe. In places of pilgrimage in Europe includes Situated a twenty-minute drive from 1632, inspired by repeated revelations, the sculptor Jan Brokoff, painter Petr Příbram and towering above Mníšek 1:30 h Praha the blind Jan Procházka accompanied Brandl and architect Kilian Ignatius pod Brdy, Skalka Hill is home to 61 km 0:40 h 2:25 h by his grandson set out for the Dientzenhofer (who for example another Baroque pilgrimage complex. Příbram 252 km Holy Mountain to live here in the renovated Lurago’s Holy Stairs, It consists of a monastery, hermitage, Brno hermitage and serve the Virgin Mary. having created a beautiful 450 metre Stations of the Cross and the cave 1:00 h After three days on the mountain he long covered corridor for them). The evoking Church of Mary Magdalene, regained his sight, bringing about a central House of God features an one of the most important Baroque huge wave of interest in the Virgin amazing altar made of Příbram silver structures in the Czech Republic. Mary of Svatá Hora. with the crowned statuette of the Its interiors are currently awaiting Virgin Mary of Svatá Hora atop. renovation. Having been gradually extended over The structure is surrounded by a www.mnisek.cz the years, the chapel experienced a cloister, entered through a magnificent

12 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 13 Český Krumlov, Baroque Theatre

Český Krumlov Across the Cloak Bridge to the Baroque Theatre and Gardens

14 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 15 but from 1686 Thalia had its own fountain adorned with statues of Experiences dignified temple. Soon to follow was water deities, nymphs and animals. The Baroque Chateau Theatre is the construction of the Cloak Bridge The symbolic cherry on the cake is alive! Why not come and check it connecting the Masquerade Hall with the quaint Late Baroque Bellarie out for yourself and visit some of the theatre and the gallery with the Villa with a double spiral staircase, the performances of the Festival of garden. a Baroque kitchen and sala terrena as Baroque Arts or the Chamber Music well as an inconspicuous, yet beautiful Festival. The town also plays host to Having entered the Baroque Rococo wooden arbour used as a the prestigious International Music Theatre you will feel as if you have Music Pavilion. Festival Český Krumlov. stepped back in time. There is the www.festival.krumlov.cz original building with the orchestra pit, So Jan Kristián and his wife Marie www.festivalkrumlov.cz stage and the whole complicated stage Arnoštka could walk from the machinery, hundreds of costumes, Masquerade Hall across the Cloak Exploring the whole chateau is props and lighting. Thanks to the Bridge, pausing there for a moment fabulous, but requires plenty of Český Krumlov, Cloak Bridge sensitive reconstruction everything looking at the twinkling town, and then time. Both tours will take you to the shines like new, making this spectacle continuing to their box in the Chateau places you have just read about, so authentic. The Baroque legacy Theatre. Afterwards they could have including the Cloak Bridge. Apart also encompasses the musical headed for an evening soiree in the from touring the Baroque Theatre and Český Krumlov literature archive, eagerly sought after charmingly lit gardens, and listen the Chateau Gardens, you can view by researchers. Seeing a Baroque to the murmuring of the fountain a new exhibition in the Horse Stables opera in this very theatre hall is an or subtle tones of Corelli's sonatas or see the basements, climb the Across the Cloak Bridge to the unsurpassable experience. floating from the Music Pavilion. chateau tower or cast your eyes over Baroque Theatre and Gardens Thanks to the well thought out guided the chateau collections at the Castle Regarded as another unique Baroque tours of Český Krumlov Chateau and Museum. Český Krumlov is one of the most feature of the chateau, the intricately various special events you can relive beautiful historical towns on Earth. structured Cloak Bridge stands on their feelings yourself. A labyrinth of narrow and mysterious supporting arches and has two floors of www.zamek-ceskykrumlov.eu medieval lanes, proud Renaissance and covered passages above it. As its brick www.ckrumlov.info 2 h Gothic houses, dignified monasteries balustrades are adorned with statues of Praha 2:55 h and majestic churches, adding to the saints, walking across is very uplifting. Tips for Trips 173 km 245 km Brno 3 h striking charm of the meandering However, the most stunning views can Following the trail of Baroque from 4:45 h Vltava River, is crowned by a unique be had from a distance. Towering to Český Krumlov is really not difficult. Český chateau complex. One can say that dizzying heights, the bridge rests on Set out for Holašovice to take a look Krumlov 200 m here Baroque left gems that cannot be three levels of impressive load-bearing at the triumph of Rural Baroque, or for seen anywhere else any longer, such arches and floating on top are covered Lnáře to see a Baroque chateau with 1,5 km, 20 min as one of the best preserved Baroque passages resembling a castle in the sky. numerous frescoes surrounded by Theatres in the world, the remarkable ponds and forests, and if you want an eye-catching Cloak Bridge, and The Baroque garden, which in the absolutely secret tip, head for Ohrada Baroque Gardens, which were actually spirit of Baroque style was itself a bit Chateau, presenting fishing, falconry Chvalšinská Objížďková1 km, 10 min a continuation of the theatrical stage of a spectacle full of optical sensations, and trophy collections of the National into the landscape. effects, vistas and secret symbols, Museum of Agriculture. completes the triple Baroque beauty www.zamek-lnare.cz Perhaps wishing to please his art- of the chateau with great dignity. Over www.nzm.cz/ohrada/ Chateau loving wife, Jan Kristián of Eggenberg recent decades the Baroque nature of Vltava decided to build a theatre at the the chateau garden with three terraces Český chateau. Until then performances had has been significantly restored, Krumlov been held in the Masquerade Hall, displaying a beautiful cascading

16 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 17 Holašovice Holašovice

In Pursuit of Charming Houses of Rural Baroque

18 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 19 mid-19th century Rural or in other crafts in the creative workshops on the words Folk Baroque culminated. At village green while listening to South that time Holašovice witnessed the Bohemian helicon music or medieval construction of eye-pleasing, heart- fair songs… warming houses, cottages and farm buildings on its medieval ground plan. If you find yourself in Holašovice at Holašovice is not an open-air museum any other time, don’t worry, they'll take with actors, it is a living village with good care of you – for example in the inhabited houses, which makes the local restaurant or in the traditional experience of visiting it even stronger. family pottery workshop producing the original Holašovice pottery. You will be able to see twenty-three listed homesteads representing Tips for Trips one hundred and twenty buildings, Whether by car or bike (it is difficult to Holašovice including listed stables, sheds, barns, find a friendlier or more picturesque annexes for retired homesteaders, terrain), continue your search for other granaries, gates and even fences. examples of Rural Baroque. In the in Baroque was associated with large When you get here, start your tour Českobudějovicko and Třeboňsko Holašovice and spectacular religious festivals at the Information Centre. They will regions you can see them in every and fetes, which villagers loved and provide you with everything you need other village. looked forward to the whole year. When and you can head for the Museum of In Pursuit of Charming Houses Emperor Josef II banned fetes, a silent the South Bohemian Village in Be sure to treat yourself to a trip to of Rural Baroque defiance rose up in South Bohemian the Farmhouse. Then stroll around Český Krumlov, Hluboká Chateau, peasants. Baroque was slowly coming and marvel at the beauty of individual Netolice Archeopark or take a look If someone took you blindfolded to the to an end, but villagers did not care. houses and small sacral structures. around you from the oldest Czech South Bohemian village of Holašovice, They wanted back the era of spectacular Departing will be difficult because you observation tower made of stone on led you onto the village green and festivities as well as the oval and won’t like leaving behind the idyllic, Kleť Hill. removed the blindfold, you would charming beauty. Trying to get round pristine beauty. probably think you were just dreaming the Imperial Edicts as much as possible www.holasovice.eu because appearing in a fairy tale isn't they relentlessly continued to take 2 h really possible, or is it? Once on the part in pilgrimage processions. Central Experiences Praha 2:55 h Holašovice green, absolutely everyone Europe was already ruled by Classicism, If you wish to enhance your impression 152 km sighs in awe and amazement. How did but village folk did not relish giving up of Holašovice even further, why not 253 km Brno Holašovice it actually happen that instead of simple pomp and exuberant beauty. So they come here in summer during the 5 km and pragmatic shapes of village homes, started turning their houses and farms Holašovice Country Festivities? these houses boast picturesque façades into ornate and picturesque “manors”. The three-day long folk festival will with abundant building ornaments, carry you into the hustle and bustle Netolice E49 Zliv Hluboká arches and spirals? And why is the style Ordinary bricklayers grasped the baton of a period fair with craftsmen and nad Vltavou of these idyllic homes referred to as from famous architects and didn’t stall holders. Some of the crafts have Rural Baroque, when they were built care what they borrowed from what almost slipped into oblivion, but here Vltava long after the Baroque era departed? style. From Baroque they adopted they are able to resurrect them. You Záboří decorativeness, roundness, dynamism will witness the blending of historical Čakov Dubné During the Baroque period village folk and intricate building elements. It is attributes, as tablets are used to film České had to struggle to make ends meet and still mind boggling how, lacking any people minting coins, stitching shoes, Holašovice Jankov Budějovice various trends and styles were of no education, they were able to imitate forging horseshoes, turning a jug or 15 km, 25 min interest to them. They lived for their the complicated and geometrically carving the infant Jesus for a Nativity work, family and especially faith. Faith sophisticated ornamentation. In the Scene. You can even try some of these

20 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 21 Mariánská Týnice Plasy

In Nepomuk you can admire the www.turisturaj.cz/en 1:36 h Plzeň Region church where John of Nepomuk was www.marianskatynice.cz Praha 95 km baptized, Pilgrimage Church of St. www.klaster-plasy.cz 1:00 h West-Bohemian Baroque Gems John of Nepomuk and St. John’s www.nepomucko.cz Plzeň Brno 2:50 h Museum. www.zamek-manetin.cz 295 km The Plzeň Region is full of gorgeous www.czechtourism.com/t/klatovy 1:00 h Baroque sites, enjoying dynamic life. In nearby Lnáře you can discover www.czechtourism.com/c/ At the Mariánská Týnice pilgrimage a majestic Baroque chateau with the nebilovy-chateau 10 km site, you can admire Santini's Church Chapel of St. Joseph famed for its of the Annunciation of Our Lady with fresco decorations. Experiences Manětín Mariánská Provost´s residence and a cloister, “West Bohemian Baroque” is a never Týnice along with a remarkable museum and In Klatovy, the Baroque trail is tied ending series of events and festivals Plasy the Baroque Centre, closely focusing to the Jesuit Order, starting with the dedicated to Baroque thinking and on Santini’s work. Santini's Monastery Virgin Mary's Immaculate Conception lifestyle. In fact a Summer Baroque D5 Festival takes place in all of the places Plzeň in Plasy rests on more than five and St. Ignatius' Church, continuing Berounka thousand oak piles driven into the into church catacombs with forty above. Klatovy has actually one more Kladruby to boast of – the Baroque Jesuit swamp. Other fascinating structures mummified bodies of monks and the D5 include the convent building as well exposition of Baroque Klatovy in the Festival of Klatovy. A very unique Nebílovy as four of Santini's beautiful self- Jesuit era and ending in the beautiful experience can be had at the Centre of supporting staircases. The next stop Baroque White Unicorn Pharmacy Building Heritage in Plasy. Přeštice is in Manětín and its High Baroque with an exposition full of rarities. www.zapadoceskebaroko.cz Nepomuk chateau standing out due to its unusual muzeum-plasy.cz Lnáře disposition, where the chateau frontage The Baroque route leads via Přeštice, Klatovy actually forms the southern side of with the church worked on by Kilian Tips for Trips the square. You will be able to view Ignatius Dientzenhofer, to Nebílovy Extend your journey exploring Santini’s the chateau exposition, oratory of the Chateau, regarded as an absolutely work – visit Mladotice, Hubenov, Kalce Church of St. John the Baptist, chateau unique structure in the Czech Republic, and Kladruby. This trip will be the garden and more than thirty Baroque perfectly representing Viennese shortest – just turn the page. statues in the chateau and town. Baroque.

22 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 23 Kladruby

than Dientzenhofer’s. And yet, Abbot Experiences Fintzguth decided on his project titled Guided tours of the Kladruby Praha 1:15 h Kladruby 128 km 3:00 h “al modo gotico” – in the Gothic style. Monastery, in many aspects one of 330 km Kladruby Uncompromising Beauty So in 1711 Santini got down to work. the most notable Baroque complexes Brno He would build a new three-aisled nave worldwide, will take you to the Church Standing near the majestic three- and then crown it with an astonishing of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, 10 km aisled Romanesque basilica, Maurus dome, making it look as if this huge St. Wolfgang and St. Benedict, but also to the – the cloister, Fintzguth, Abbot of the Benedictine yet delicate crown was floating high monastery 8 km Monastery in Kladruby, frowned. above the floor of the church, having winter refectory, Abbot’s apartment, It was nearly three hundred years since been lifted onto the roof by none other exposition of Matthias Bernard Braun’s the Hussites had wrecked it. Later than angels. He devoted most attention sculptures and the exhibition about adaptations were not very auspicious to the chancel. Standing here even St. John of Nepomuk. You will be truly Plzeň leading to the perimeter walls being today, one gazes in awe at the magical amazed. Stříbro overloaded. Surely he wouldn’t allow play of lights, shadows, reflections and D5 the church to collapse in 1701, the very twilight. Tips for Trips Kladruby Embarking on the six-kilometre Natural year he was made Abbot. He called 30 km, 30 min on the finest architects working in the After twelve years the construction and Historical Sightseeing Trail that Czech lands and let Christopher was completed. Then there was the starts and ends at the monastery, Stod Dobřany Dientzenhofer and Jan Blažej convent with a daring triangular you will be able to appreciate the Santini compete for the chance to floor plan. However, the Abbot died perfect setting of the structures in the Přeštice construct a dream temple. With God’s and his successor chose a different surrounding landscape. On your way help he would choose one of their design – one offered by Kilian Ignatius through the town of Kladruby, pop in to designs. Dientzenhofer, the son of the man the Kladruby Regional Museum. defeated many years before. So one www.muzeumkladruby.cz Santini set about his project architectural giant replaced another uncompromisingly, producing a design resulting in a stunning spectacle. needing considerably more finances www.klaster-kladruby.cz

24 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 25 Karlovy Vary

treatments. He was also very active in Experiences Karlovy Vary planning spa building development. Being in Karlovy Vary at the time of the 127 km 3:13 h Praha prestigious International Film Festival 1:50 h Popisek The town experienced an explosion of is a completely unique experience. The Karlovy 3:30 h Baroque Soul of an Art Nouveau Vary Brno Town construction work. Visiting Karlovy town is filled with excited film fans, 336 km Vary became fashionable for European Hollywood stars parading around and 2:15 h Cleansing and curing of both body high society. At that time the Saxon film projections shown all over the and soul fitted nicely into the Baroque and Bohemian Halls were erected, place… outlook of the world. Established extensive building work was seen www.kviff.com Ohře in many places around the country, around the Vřídlo Spring, Kilian spas were constructed and run by Ignatius Dientzenhofer designed the If you are a golf lover, Karlovy Vary can E48 offer you the oldest Czechgolf course, Vítězná townsfolk and aristocracy as well as wonderful Church of St. Mary Teplá Bezručova religious orders. Soon they became a Magdalene, consecrated in 1736. a beautifully rugged eighteen-hole phenomenon of the Baroque period. Karlovy Vary increased in size. park-type course. Obviously, the interest in spa activities www.golfresort.cz affected the oldest Czech spa, Walking on the promenade along the 2,5 km Karlovy Vary. River Teplá, you are surrounded by Tips for Trips 12 min Art Nouveau houses, which replaced Set out for the Pilgrimage Church of St. Mary By the mid-16th century the Baroque buildings, but the town layout the Holy Trinity at Angel Mountain. Magdalene town featured up to forty public has remained the same. Some Baroque The three-sided Early Baroque 2 km bathhouses. However, the real boom buildings have survived until today structure will most definitely enchant 30 min of spa treatments came with Baroque. with the “Beautiful Queen”, “Peter” you. More Baroque gems can be Karlovy Vary Teplá It was largely influenced by the spa and “Seven Planets” ranking among explored in Bečov nad Teplou, Loket, physician David Becher, who the oldest. Strolling through the town, Chyše and Valeč. 500 m pushed through new spa procedures, you may say to yourself: so this is www.zamek-becov.cz introduced a variety of new treatment where Beethoven, Goethe, Paganini, www.loket.cz methods, such as drinking water at Chopin, Gogol, Mozart, Freud, Franz www.chyse.com springs, walking as part of the therapy Josef I and Purkyně used to walk www.zamek-valec.cz and balancing drinking and bathing holding their spa cups. www.karlovyvary.cz

26 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 27 Mariánské Lázně Teplá Monastery, Library

Popisek The first spa bath house was built by to this day this town of parks, romantic Experiences Mariánské Lázně Dr. Nehr in 1808. colonnades, charming pavilions and Obviously, the spa care. A hundred pleasant cafés still ranks among the healing mineral springs, perfect Expedition to Cross Spring Gaining in size and having received most popular spas of Europe. Come treatments, but also peace and quiet, spa status in 1820, Mariánské Lázně and see for yourself – the serenity and pleasant walks, culture, restaurants, The Baroque history of Mariánské was ready to welcome its first truly friendly atmosphere are unforgettable. cafés. Lázně, the youngest spa of the West famous guest, the poet Goethe. He www.marianskelazne.cz Bohemian triangle, is in reality more felt here like in America, where a town 173 km Praha 2:17 h of a pre-history. In the second half of could spring up from the wilderness. Tips for Trips 373 km 1:50 h Some unmissable sights located Mariánské 3:35 h the 18th century the place where an A year later Mariánské Lázně became Brno idyllic and imposing town is situated a new hit. Goethe visited again and it nearby include Kladská peat bogs, Lázně today was still covered in dense, almost was here he met the seventeen year old Kynžvart and Bečov nad Teplou impassable forests and marshes. The Ulrika von Lewetzov, who despite the Chateaux (with the world-renowned Mariánské Colonnade St. Maurus Reliquary), Lázně existence of healing springs was then age difference of fifty five years was Teplá 3,3 km known only by monks from the Teplá the last love of his life. Monastery, cycle routes and hiking 500 m 10 min Monastery. trails in the Slavkov Forest. And Baroque destinations? Try Kladruby, The town kept growing with its centre Hlavní třída It was Baroque that witnessed the still being the almost miraculous Plasy or Manětín. onset of the fame of the spa to be. The Cross Spring. Eighty years after www.czechtourism.com/c/kynzvart- monks made a small log hut above the Goethe's first visit nobody would have chateau strongest spring referred to as Cross believed that the place was covered www.zamek-becov.cz Spring and started using mineral water in forests and swamp. Beautiful spa www.czechtourism.com/c/tepla- 215 for extracting salt with laxative effects. and residential houses, promenades, monastery 2,6 km Hlavní třída The breakthrough came with the hotels … Famous Europeans strived www.zamek-manetin.cz 50 min monastery doctor Josef Jan Nehr, who to be seen here; the town reached in 1781 convinced the then Abbot about its height of popularity. Its glory has the strong healing effects of the spring. never really been interrupted, and so 215

28 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 29 Teplice Teplice

František Karel Clary- Aldringen was Experiences 85 km Teplice entering into a contract with Matthias The Regional Museum situated in the Teplice 1:35 h Bernard Braun. On its basis the Teplice Chateau along with a beautiful 294 km Praha 1:05 h Pop over to Little Paris legendary Czech sculptor created garden and the stunning Chateau 3:00 h very probably his most beautiful Square crowned by Braun’s Plague Brno At the time, when Baroque began to work – the breathtaking twenty metre Column and the snow-white Baroque 1:08 h control spiritual and social life, Teplice, high Plague Column of the Holy Church of St. John the Baptist, as well the second oldest Czech spa, had just Trinity. as the remarkable Botanical Garden, 200 m one stone house where spa care used spa streets and parks – simply have to to be provided. But it was Baroque Over the 18th century the popularity of be seen. And of course, one must not Teplice that completely transformed the town the Teplice Spa increased, it was soon forget spa treatments. Let yourself be and the spa. Well, Baroque on its own to become one of the most fashionable spoilt and pampered in Teplice. would hardly have managed it, but it seasonal destinations in Europe, www.muzeum-teplice.cz received a large helping hand from the welcoming artists, rulers, military www.botanickateplice.cz. Na Hrázi Clary-Aldringen family who resided at leaders, politicians and nobility. Teplice Chateau from 1634 until the Anyone who was anyone just had to Tips for Trips end of World War II. be seen here. In the early 19th century Take a short trip to Dubí to see the Masarykova tř. Teplice was referred to as Little northernmost Venetian Church in the Alejí The investments of Clary-Aldringen Paris, staging unique meetings – like world and The House of Porcelain triggered frenzied construction Beethoven’s with Goethe, or political with Blue Blood, or head for Krupka to activities, resulting in the erection of discussions at the highest level held in visit the Baroque Pilgrimage Basilica Zámecké with a cloister or to Chlumec with its náměstí spa houses and hotels, reshaping the its salons. Much of the atmosphere of 8 stunning three-sided Baroque chapel. 1,2 km chateau and garden to suit Baroque those times has magically remained 20 min tastes with the newly added Garden in the Teplice streets, squares and www.infocentrum-dubi.cz House and Baroque aviary with gardens to this day. a garden staircase. Nonetheless, www.czechtourism.com/t/teplice the most significant deed of Count

30 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 31 The Church of the Assumption of Our Lady and Saint John the Baptist

Kutná Hora Cathedral of Two Worlds

32 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 33 House of God was such a unique Abbot Snopek was elated and straight Tips for Trips structure that it was not possible to away took Santini to the nearby The most obvious tip is Kutná Hora apply the then common practice of Cemetery Church of All Saints. itself. There is another cathedral, dismantling old walls and using the Having descended to its underground this time consecrated to St. Barbara, stones for the erection of the new chapel, Jan Blažej stood motionless the Italian Court, a stone fountain, Baroque church. So Abbot Snopek in fascination at the sight of huge churches, monastery, Gothic houses sent a letter to Abbot Lochner at pyramids of skulls and bones. The early – including one of the oldest in the Zbraslav, asking a favour – “You've 14th century plague and Hussite raids country, the Stone House, featuring a got that young Santini constructing had seen about 40,000 people buried museum with an exposition of stone your convent. They say he can build in in the nearby cemetery. Later after artefacts … and this is still just the a Gothic way. Can you spare him for shutting down the church, there were beginning. a while?” Subsequently, in 1703 Jan only piles of nameless bones left, which Blažej Santini came to Kutná Hora day by day were arranged by a half- For our next tip head to nearby and took over the construction of the blind Sedlec monk into eerie pyramids. Kladruby nad Labem, home to one Church of the Assumption of Our Having launched the reconstruction of the oldest stud farms in the world. Lady and Saint John the Baptist. of the church, Santini couldn’t get the The stables and the chateau area have Having actually created a new style in bones in the chapel out of his mind. been newly renovated and you can Kutná Hora Kutná Hora, Santini would continue He started dreaming up decorations take a guided tour round the stud farm, improving and bettering it all his life.KH using bones as building material. In have a closer look at the local pride Baroque Gothic. Santini's genius 1870 his idea was seen through by and joy – Kladruber Old White horses, had awoken. Master Builder František Rint. After belonging to the Baroque Horse Kutná Hora disinfecting and bleaching the bones, category or take a ride in a carriage or What is Santini’s greatest contribution he arranged them into decorative on horseback… Cathedral of Two Worlds to this cathedral? Santini added a patterns. This macabre spectacle www.nhkladruby.cz graceful entrance complete with of bone chandeliers, monstrances, 1:00 h The Hussite hordes moved on, leaving sculptures to the gigantic front candelabra and vases as well as whole Kutná 2:40 h the Sedlec church in ruins, a picture of window giving a stunning impression. walls of bones and skulls is still here Praha Hora 1:15 h doom and gloom. The oldest cathedral With a Latin cross ground plan, the today to “enjoy”. 89 km 153 km 1:50 h in Central Europe was looted, burned church interior required unusual and www.ossuary.eu and desecrated. For 279 years there monumental height and in-depth www.destinace.kutnahora.cz Brno 1:40 h was no one courageous enough to solutions. Anyone walking down the set about repairing it, and yet this nave of the cathedral feels as if the Experiences Assumption “wreck” was officially recognised as walls were rising up to heaven, and Make sure not to miss the loft area of Our Lady Sedlec Splendissima Basilica (the most they were standing in a remarkable, newly open to the public and the splendid basilica) in 1681. The amazing narrow rocky gorge. However, Santini visitor tour, which will also take you 5,9 km monument aroused respect even in its played such an unusual rhythm with to the Church Treasury boasting 21 min 1,3 km crippled state. the vaults and wall decorations that the world’s oldest surviving Gothic 20 min

the space is not at all unfriendly – monstrance. You can pop into Masarykova In 1700, the Abbot of the Cistercian austere Gothic humility is combined the church cinema and watch a Monastery, Jindřich Snopek, was with Baroque emotion, symmetry, documentary about the cathedral. If Palackého Vrchlice standing on the site of the church and oval shapes all around. As you fancy something completely out 2 náměstí ruins fierily talking to Master Builder two world firsts, Santini created a of the ordinary, set out on a candlelit Bayer about the new cathedral. self-supporting vault and built a night tour of the church and ossuary! Hrnčířská Finally, someone plucked up courage magnificent self-supporting spiral St. Barbara and managed to gather finances. The staircase displaying curves and Kutná Hora church was rising from the ashes … swirls along with incredibly dynamic 126 500 m when a problem appeared. The Gothic vistas.

34 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 35 Kuks

Kuks Following the Grand Dream of Count Špork

36 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 37 all directions, making visitors gasp heroic and purely religious sculptures. to the “Nativity Scene” area is an in amazement. The whole complex And as if this was not enough, he also experience you do not come across of Kuks encompassed not only the worked in the countryside (Nový les) very often. Count's residence and Hospital, at a place now called Braun’s Nativity but spilled into the countryside, Scene, carving statues from solid The atmosphere of Baroque festivities featuring hunting lodges, summer sandstone. The results of his work are can be experienced during concerts houses, artificial caves, tree alleys with still stunning to this day. and performances at Kuks Summer images of saints carved into tree bark, Music Festival. reliefs, hermitages and sculptures in Due to the actions of Old Father Time, www.hudebniletokuks.cz various surroundings – lined like today we can no longer perceive the soldiers on the terrace or “living” wildly complex in its entirety, but it is still Tips for Trips amidst the woods… exciting to stroll along the corridors To be frank, just walking around of the Hospital, through the terraces, Špork’s former estate, the Hospital, The Count was a great lover of arts Baroque herb garden and the Nový les (forest), and the opposite Kuks and theatre, in particular. Not only did thoughtfully preserved pharmacy bank will provide you with a he build a theatre, which witnessed and then head into the woods for meaningful way of passing so much vital chapters in the history of Czech Braun’s sculptures and narrow your of your time that there will probably Baroque puppet and dramatic theatre, eyes while trying to take in all the be none left over for other trips. But Kuks but he conceived the whole area as KH beauty, lavishness and the dimensions if there is, head for Velká Bukovina, a large theatre. In the countryside of the former monumental landscape where you will find a Baroque Jewish Following the Grand Dream of guests would meet actors representing through your inner vision. Not long cemetery, or for the walled town of Count Špork various characters. Enjoying the ago, the Hospital received an extremely Josefov near Jaroměř or the African greatest popularity among them, the demanding and costly renovation, Safari in Dvůr Králové ZOO. Baroque lies many generations in our hermits not only acted their roles, but making for even greater visitor www.czechtourism.com/c/josefov- past. The ravages of time aided by also used to secretly switch fountains experience. fort human stupidity have sadly done away and other water features on and off www.hospital-kuks.cz www.zoodvurkralove.cz with much of the mystical splendour of at the right moment. Many visitors www.braunuvbetlem.cz Baroque visionaries. One of the most left the Kuks area believing they had www.ceska-apatyka.cz 139 km 1:30 h Praha Kuks 2:40 h renowned among them was Count really talked to a holy man in a forest 171 km František Antonín Špork. His hermitage. Kuks became a reflection Experiences grandiose dream that materialised in of the Baroque world – on one hand Today Kuks offersfour sightseeing Brno Kuks has survived only in parts, but it secular entertainment, theatrical tours. The first will take you to the is so fascinating that anyone wishing trickery and pomp, and on the other Hospital, which sadly Count Špork did 0,7 km Kuks to understand the thinking of Baroque religious mysticism and symbolism, not live to see open. But he certainly 14 min man simply must come here. care for body and mind in the spa as would have been pleased that it was well as humility and compassion for in use until 1938. The second route 37 For a long time Count František those in need. encompasses the Špork Family was toying with an idea of creating Tomb, while the third and fourth something between Utopia and a Count Špork was more than lucky explore the phenomenon of Baroque Labe gigantic theme park. Everything was in choosing his collaborators, such pharmaceutics. The unique exhibition Betlém (2,5 km) based on two thoughts – building a as architects, actors, painters and sheds some light on the actual Hospital home for elderly war veterans and sculptors. Nonetheless, the brightest production and sale of drugs in the Kuks founding a modern spa. And since star of his team was none other Baroque era. The authentic pharmacy Count Špork was a very enterprising than Matthias Bernard Braun, features for example pharmacy bottles 0,6 km 9 min man with no regrets about spending who created for the Count a unique originally containing “Dragon's blood”, money on his ideas, his plans grew collection of statues of the Virtues crayfish eyes or powder made from the 500 m like a tree, with a crown spreading in and Vices, as well as other parodic, skull of a hanged man. An expedition

38 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 39 Broumovsko Churches Like Beads on a String

Hvězda (Star), Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows

40 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 41 Abbot Zinke invited the brightest Mary Magdalene in Božanov. The Tips for Trips star of Czech Baroque architecture, Vižnov church is a perfect example of The town of Broumov itself is definitely Christopher Dientzenhofer, to “dynamic” Baroque, while the one in well worth seeing. Its conservation Broumov engaging him to breathe Šonov is the most expressive of the area includes the remains of walls, life into one of the most audacious entire group, the Božanov church is historical urban houses, Baroque Baroque visions in the Czech lands. the most scenic, the one in Vernéřovice Marian Column, three wonderful crowns a large cemetery with an Baroque churches and a remarkable In just twenty-four years (1719–1743) ancient wall and the main entrance wooden cemetery church. You the Broumov area witnessed the of the St. Barbara Church in Otovice certainly won’t regret taking time erection of eight new churches. features a commemorative plaque with to explore the Episcopal Brewery in Master builder Christopher invited a monogram of Abbot Otmar Zinke, the Broumov Quarter of Olivětín and his son Kilian Ignatius to help him the father of the idea of a group of treating your taste buds to the local and together they planned, calculated, churches. beer. designed and oversaw the construction www.broumovsko.cz work. They were involved in converting www.klasterbroumov.cz Since you are in the region of rocks, and completing the Broumov you should definitely visit the nearby Monastery, mainly constructing the Experiences Broumov Walls, or one of the most Broumov convent, and can probably be credited If you fancy seeing the Broumov group beautiful rock towns in the Czech with some of the small religious KH of churches from the inside, visit some Republic, Adršpach-Teplice Rocks. structures in the nearby landscape. of the concerts of the Treasures of the Hvězda (Star) Peak of the Broumov Broumov Region Festival, which is held Walls features the stunning Chapel of Broumovsko The most interesting thing about the each summer holiday. After exploring Our Lady of the Snows, designed by Broumov group of churches from all of the churches, make sure to return Kilian Ignatius Dientzenhofer. Churches Like Beads on a String today’s point of view, which was also to Broumov to take a tour round the remarkable in Baroque times, is that monastery. You will see a Shroud of In the dark times of the 15th century, they were all built by one family, Turin replica from 1651, which was 185 km Broumov 2:35 h a group of Benedictines led by Abbot sharing one architectural language. not discovered in the Church of St. Praha 3:10 h Nicholas II arrived at the Broumov They are not overly complicated or Adalbert until 1999. The underground 235 km Monastery ending their flight from excessively embellished, but perfectly area will take you by surprise with its 4:00 h Hussite gangs. Their home monastery match the surrounding countryside thirty-four mummies and the beautiful Brno in Břevnov, Prague, was burned down with its undulating surface and rock library will leave you speechless. You and plundered, however, monks towns. can spice things up by taking a musical managed to save the most significant or night tour! Ruprechtice sacral treasures. From that point Dominating the landscape, individual Broumov began turning into a major churches make up part of the beautiful You can explore the Broumov group Adršpach Vižňov Heřmánkovice centre of the order, gaining importance scenery, playing a leading role. of churches by bike. The 22 km route all the time. Two centuries later, Abbot Wandering from one church to another of the southern part of Broumovsko, Vernéřovice starting in Broumov, showcases four Sartorius was succeeded by Otmar is fascinating, especially if you think Teplice Broumov Šonov Zinke in his office. The new Abbot was what you have managed to achieve in of them. nad Metují determined not only to improve the twenty-four years of your life. If you Otovice Bezděkov monastery itself but also to throw the wish to travel following the time line Police doors, in the spirit of Baroque ideas, of their origin, you must start at the nad Metují wide open, and let the monuments of Church of St. Anne in Vižnov, 303 faith scatter around the countryside. continue through Ruprechtice, His predecessor had an old wooden Vernéřovice, Heřmánkovice, Hronov church in Martínkovice rebuilt, Bezděkov, Otovice and Šonov to 5 km employing the architect Martin Allio. the youngest of them, the Church of

42 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 43 Zelená hora Santini's Ingenious Epilogue

The Pilgrimage Church of St. John of Nepomuk on Zelená hora

44 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 45 as Kabbalah. The top of the dome features John’s symbolic tongue. Leaving the sacred geometry and symbolism aside, the feeling invoked by the church interior is indescribable. The gorgeous ten-pointed cloister around the church was finished after Santini's death. Not many people can claim that their last work was their most important and beautiful. www.zelena-hora.cz

Experiences You simply must not miss the new exposition in the Ždár Monastery and Chateau. Its name – Museum of the New Generation is anything but The Pilgrimage Church of St. John Zelená hora misleading, as here you will be able to of Nepomuk perceive Santini and Baroque through all of your senses and very definitely Farmyard on a lyre shaped ground in a way other than you are used to in Monastery other museums. Chateau Zelená Zelená hora plan. hora 4,8 km www.zamekzdar.cz 3,4 km 15 min Santini's Ingenious Epilogue The discovery of the apparently intact 55 min tongue of John of Nepomuk in St. A hillock above Žďár nad Sázavou Vitus Cathedral, Prague, played into was originally called Black Forest and the hands of the two men in pursuing actually used to be a forest. Elected their grand plan. The hillock forest Brodská as Abbot of the local Cistercian was cut down and renamed Zelená monastery in 1705, Václav Vejmluva hora (Green Mountain) (matching Sázava nám. Republiky was a great admirer of John of the name of the monastery near Nepomuk, whose beatification was John’s birthplace). This name is today Brněnská at that point only talked about. The inherently connected with the most Abbot yearned to build a pilgrimage ingenious and most mysterious of Žďár nad 37 church on that hilltop and infuse Santini's work. Sázavou it with the symbolism of John Obyčtov of Nepomuk. When he met Jan The Pilgrimage Church of St. 500 m Blažej Santini, he found a kindred John of Nepomuk on Zelená spirit. But in the meantime, there hora is a true masterpiece of Tips for Trips Not enough Santini? Head for 2:23 h was a lot of work to be done in the architecture. The cunning way the 1:09 h monastery itself, so Santini designed shapes intersect in space and the Obyčtov, to view his turtle-shaped Praha 160 km and supervised the renovation of incredible subtlety and dynamics of church. 1:47 h 1:05 h the monastery church and convent. the building create the impression Žďár nad 77 km Sázavou In addition he built the completely of light and fragility, spiced up Brno 1:25 h unique Lower Cemetery, with a with a fascinating play of light and ground plan resembling the shape shadows and omnipresent symbolism of a skull and then erected the Lyra drawing on the Catholic faith as well

46 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 47 Vranov nad Dyjí Vranov nad Dyjí Chateau in the Sky

48 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 49 Vranov nad Dyjí Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou

The Althanns approached one of the Experiences place of the poet Otakar Březina, who Vranov nad Dyjí two most noted Viennese architects,KH The three guided tours will acquaint you held the post of teacher in Jaroměřice Johann Bernard Fischer of with everything of interest. The Hall of from 1901 until his death in 1929, and Chateau in the Sky Erlach, a man admired even by Ancestors, southern terraces, twenty- created some of his outstanding poetic Santini. Apart from the Hall of two furnished rooms with opulent work here. A perfect example of the aristocratic Ancestors, Fischer also built here the painting and wall paper decorations, the www.czechtourism.com/c/bitov-castle desire for secular pomp and splendour magnificent Chateau Chapel of chateau chapel and finally, an exhibition www.czechtourism.com/c/jaromerice- is the beautiful chateau in Vranov the Holy Trinity with the Althann of European pottery including products chateau nad Dyjí. Not surprisingly, it has an Tomb. from the famous Vranov Manufactory. excellent location as it was rebuilt The popular resort – Vranov Dam with 2:30 h from a castle towering on a steep rock, Let us stay a little longer in the Hall of beaches and water sports is literally Praha 1:20 h some 80 metres above the level of the Ancestors as its interior space is truly within sight. 200 km 89 km 1:37 h Dyje River. When Baroque began its impressive. The lavish murals created Vranov Brno rule, the proud Althanns decided to by the Imperial artist Rottmayer are Tips for Trips n. Dyjí convert their family residence into a breathtaking. One can stand here for Start at the nearby Bítov Castle, take a modern chateau able to rival the gems ages, with head tilted back, feasting look at the massive ruins of Cornštejn of European architecture. the eyes on the Althanns, transformed Castle, pay a visit to the Baroque Zámecká into gods here. The gallery is like a Church of the Visitation of the Virgin 8. května In their desire to glorify the family, frame and the dome is its canvas. In Mary in Lechovice and obviously the chateau in Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou Kamenského Dyje literally creating its apotheosis in the years to come a three-wing chateau stezka ancient sense of the word, they built building and a Baroque double renovated in the Baroque style by one of the most interesting structures staircase leading onto the Court Austrian architect Jakob Prandtauer. of Central European Baroque, the of Honour would be added… All In the Late Baroque period it was a Znojemská Hall of Ancestors. Its ellipsoid conceived in the spirit of the family site of vibrant cultural activities. The 0,9 km BělidlaNáměstí shape with a daring dome resembling glorification, everything beautiful, first opera in Czech language “How 15 min a decorative chocolate praline sitting radiant. Hard to describe, it must be the Town of Jaroměřice Was Founded” Dyje on a high rock is magically entwined seen. by František Antonín Míča, the Court Zámecká with its environs, uniquely crowning www.zamek-vranov.cz Bandmaster of the Questenbergs, was them. first performed here in 1730. Vranov nad Dyjí Chateau The local cemetery is the final resting

50 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 51 Mikulov Mikulov Following the Stations of the Cross to the Tomb and Synagogue

52 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 53 greatest heyday in the Baroque period. Tips for Trips The erection of the first structure of Pálava. Fabulous hills rising up from the Stations of the Cross began on a the shores of Nové Mlýny (New bare hill in 1623, a year after Mikulov Mills) dam, abundant in vineyards, recovered from a dreadful plague. The villages, wine cellars – even those Chapel of St. Sebastian, completed dating to Baroque times! The next trip in 1630 and built with Renaissance destination is even closer – Turold ideals in mind, was meant to be a Cave and Fox Hole Cave with a 3 km miniature reflection of St. Peter's labyrinth of corridors formed in the Basilica in Rome. Soon after, a bell Jurassic limestone massive featuring tower and the Holy Sepulchre were an amazing emerald coloured lake. added, followed by the construction of www.palava-lva.cz shrines at individual stations. In 1644 the new pilgrimage site was ready to Experiences Mikulov, Svatý kopeček welcome the first pilgrims. Baroque Mikulov is an experience in itself – its brought about a remarkable increase atmosphere is unique. Besides wine in its significance. Building adaptations bars and cafes, be sure to head for From time immemorial the chateau and extensions were carried out, with the Regional Museum located in the Mikulov was tightly connected with the town KH seven new chapels added to make up chateau, presenting the country’s and with the square, sloping towards the number of fourteen stations, as set largest wine making exposition, Following the Stations of the Baroque Church of St. Anne by Baroque. Dietrichstein Library and Gallery. Then the Cross to the Tomb and sheltering a Loreto Holy Hut with head for the Dietrichstein Tomb, to Synagogue the Black Madonna of Mikulov. Although Baroque ruled mainly enjoy for example an evening costume No one knows why Mikulov used to Christian culture, the gradually guided tour or some of the concerts. In recent years Mikulov has been be hit so often by devastating fires. developing architectural and www.rmm.cz ranked among the very trendy places Having wrecked many buildings, the decorative style quite obviously became of the Czech Republic, drawing in more fire of September 1784 also destroyed established also in Jewish communities. 1:30 h and more people wishing to explore the Church of St. Anne, leaving just In the Baroque era the Mikulov Jewish Praha 2:30 h its beauty and unique atmosphere of the presbytery, the damaged perimeter community was the largest in Moravia 37 min. Brno special serenity, no matter how many walls and luckily also the breathtaking and also of great significance as the 247 km 1:20 h people are around. Streets, squares, two-tower frontage decorated with town was the seat of the Chief Rabbi Mikulov 50 km cafés, wine bars, shops… All this, of sculptures and built in the early of Moravia. Not surprisingly, the local E461 course, in a mighty historical frame, as 18th century in the spirit of Roman Jewish cemetery is a highly regarded Mikulov Mikulov is abundant in sites reflecting Baroque, by Johann Bernhard Fischer vast burial ground, as you will see 1,3 km 20 min bygone times. One such is Baroque, of Erlach. František Josef Dietrichstein when strolling among four thousand which left visible imprints on the town. is the man we can thank for salvaging Matzevah – Renaissance, Classicist The most noticeable is obviously the this remarkable sight as the Baroque as well as Baroque headstones. Mikulov Chateau. Its Early Baroque ruins of the church were converted The recently renovated Mikulov 22. dubnaChateau Náměstí makeover of the 18thcentury was into the famous High Classicist Synagogue was once again imparted behind its modern day appearance. Dietrichstein Tomb, one of the with its Baroque appearance. The 28. října This period also saw the construction historical gems of Mikulov. Almemor, i.e. a platform for reading Komenského of a riding school and the Court of the Torah, is crowned with a vault Piaristů Honour with a beautiful wrought- Regarded as one of the oldest of supported by a central four-post pillar, iron gate and sculptural decoration by its kind in the Czech Republic, the representing the Polish or Lviv type Ignatius Lengelacher. Stations of the Cross leading to Svatý synagogue, the last to survive in the kopeček (Holy Hill), another of country. 200 m Mikulov’s landmarks, enjoyed their www.mikulov.cz

54 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 55 Valtice

Valtice The Town that Grew with the Liechtensteins

56 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 57 building work was still inspired by Romanticism, Temple of Apollo Mannerism, a style, saying farewell to in the Classicist and Empire styles, Brno Renaissance and anticipating Baroque, Temple of the Three Graces, the generosity of the designs was the close-by Belvedere and the thoroughly Baroque. His descendants remarkable Reistna Colonnade. D2 continued, where he finished, and This was the start of the charming the importance of Valtice kept and attractive huge woodland park, growing, welcoming artists – both today known as the Lednice-Valtice Nové Lednice renowned and newly discovered as the Complex. Mlýny Liechtensteins were very good at talent Dyje hunting. So the chateau continued The Liechtensteins managed to to grow and beautify. The more recognise another potential of Valtice Mikulov significant the family was, the more and began to develop it. The soil, Břeclav Valtice impressive residence it needed. combined with the weather conditions, 11 km, 12 min seemed ideal for wine growing. Today 10 km The Liechtensteins invited Viennese Valtice is the Czech Republic’s second architect Johann Bernard Fischer of largest vineyard village. The chateau Valtice Erlach, who constructed a single-storey also houses historic wine cellars. building, magnificent sala terrena andKH The one dating from 1430 ranks among Praha 1:10 h large stables. Afterwards the Italian the oldest and largest in the country. 261 km Brno 2:33 h Domenico Martinelli completed the For centuries wine has been maturing 59 km 45 min. Valtice Baroque makeover of the chateau, here in huge oak casks and today it is Valtice resulting in a stunning four-winged sold in bottles proudly labelled with The Town that Grew with the building with a hundred rooms. the Valtice Chateau brand. A large Liechtensteins Soon after a French garden and theatre 1640 cross-vault cellar stands witness Experiences building were added. Architecturally to the Baroque viticulture expansion. Valtice Chateau offers ten ways of When in 1387 the then not ingenious, harmonious and enclosed, And “wherever wine is drunk, life is exploring the area. More than twenty very significant noble family of the complex merges with the town, good” – as a Czech proverb goes. rooms illustrating the aristocratic Liechtenstein bought the town of which also witnessed building work, www.zamek-valtice.cz lifestyle, Baroque Theatre, princesses’ Valtice, Lower Austria (which became such as the Parish Church of suite, chateau chapel, herb garden, part of Czechoslovakia in 1920), they the Assumption of the Virgin Tips for Trips a special exposition for children and hoped they would have a long and Mary, one of South Moravia’s Tips are almost endless. The whole obviously the chateau wine cellars successful future there. And indeed largest churches, and a monastery Lednice-Valtice Complex is literally with the Wine Salon of the Czech they did – for 558 years. In time they with a church built by the Brothers at your fingertips, Lednice Chateau Republic tasting exposition, where made Valtice their main residence Hospitallers, who were brought here by round the corner, Mikulov nearby and every year you can treat your palate and rebuilt the original castle into a the Liechtensteins. The family thrived so is Pavlov with Baroque wine houses. to samples of hundreds of rigorously Renaissance chateau. At that time, and their importance grew, so at the You can stroll around with or without selected best wines from all over the Karl I, Prince of Liechtenstein became end of the Baroque era they started a guide or cycle along the wine trails. country. Make sure to pay a visit to head of the family. A truly remarkable setting up an extensive landscape park. Wine is always worth travelling for, Valtice Underground. The labyrinth of man, it was he who instigated the rapid Gaining in importance, the Baroque even to the edge of the world. And cellars hosts tasting events – Night of rise of the family and Valtice. Having summer residence in Lednice here you are actually inundated with Open Cellars, grape harvests and new gained a princely title, an important received a new appearance (in the fine wine. wine tasting… position in the country, he embarked then fashionable Tudor Gothic revival www.zamek-lednice.com www.vinarskecentrum.cz on rebuilding Valtice Chateau. Prince style), with remarkable structures Karl was an enlightened man. One erected near ponds, streams and could say he helped Baroque on its floodplain forests – such as the 1802 way to the Czech lands. Although the Lednice minaret – an example of early

58 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 59 Střílky Křtiny

haven’t seen enough bones, head for A good place to end our Baroque In and around the small town of Křtiny, in the wandering around South and East 2:30 h Praha Moravian Karst area, where a Moravia is in Střílky – and once 2:00 h Brno crypt with an ossuary was discovered again we will remember death. 207 km under a church. Here the mystique Without exaggeration, the cemetery Brno 2:40 h Celebration of Life and Death culminates and is enhanced by is a true work of art, due to its unsolved mysteries – six of the twelve remarkable layout and architecture as D46 Death was seen by Baroque man as skulls painted on with a mixture of well as the beautiful sculptures. D1 a set part of life – he measured his charcoal and animal fat are displayed www.gotobrno.cz Křtiny D1 life against it. Memento mori – in the crypt. The paintings represent www.ticbrno.cz Brno remember death. Having descended laurel wreaths with the letter Tau in www.krtiny.cz/o-krtinach Střílky below the Church of St. James the middle of the forehead. www.baroknihrbitovstrilky.cz Jaroměřice in the heart of Brno, you will find www.zamek-buchlovice.cz nad Rokytnou Buchlovice D2 yourself in Europe’s second largest The Church of the Name of the Vranov ossuary after the Paris catacombs. The Virgin Mary above Křtiny crypt is Experiences nad Dyjí walls are literally lined with bones, a true jewel born in the head of the Take a stroll through the Brno Znojmo Mikulov skeletons in robes stand in portals great Santini. The beautifully shaped centre following the Brno Baroque Valtice made of skulls, skulls are arranged to church building with a central tower Sightseeing Route: Forget the Dark 20 km form stairs, columns… is flanked on the right by the chapel, Ages. It is definitely worth it as you will connected with the church via a see the ossuary, Capuchin crypt, Town A little further, under the Church of circular cloister. Situated less than Hall and churches. the Finding of the True Cross, an hour's drive east, Buchlovice a few steps from the Green Market boasts another Baroque wonder – Tips for Trips (with the wonderful Baroque Parnas a chateau of Italian Baroque villa Apart from the places near Brno Fountain) there is another crypt, style, surrounded by a French garden. named above, you can explore all this time of the Capuchins. Here you Resembling two hands clasped around of the Baroque treasures of South will find an unusually large number the Court of Honour, it features Moravia, so why not visit some – such of preserved Baroque coffins and magnificent interiors with astonishing as Mikulov, Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou, mummies of buried monks. If you stucco decoration. Vranov nad Dyjí, and the Lednice- Valtice Complex…

60 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 61 Kroměříž Kroměříž Gardens and Other Wonders of Athens of Haná

62 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 63 Bishop Karl II set to work – not leaving garden, designed and built for you, Kojetínská Morava it all to the architects and master myself, and our descendants, after ten Chateau builders, he checked and signed plans, years of care and at significant cost by Garden and the construction of the spectacular Karl, Count of Lichtenstein, Bishop Early Baroque chateau became a of Olomouc 1675.” The Flower 1,1 km matter of prestige for him. He invited Garden as we know it today boasting 18 min Chateau the Vienna Imperial Court architect, perfect symmetry, abundant statues, 1,9 km Filiberto Lucchese, and after his death, fountains and water jets, with high 29 min Giovanni Pietro Tencalla. The majestic hedges and the staggering 244 metre Velké Flower nám. Vodní two-storey building with corner risalits long Colonnade is the only surviving Garden and an 84 metre high tower which representative of its type in Europe. 1. máje Tovačovského they created is really beautiful. The A masterpiece and a gem. sumptuous rooms still rank among the most remarkable chateau interiors Bishop Karl II was also behind 500 m in Central Europe – the Hunting, the foundation of the colossal and Kroměříž Assembly and Throne Halls, extremely valuable Kroměříž along with the Pink Salon and Chateau Picture Gallery. To be 1:34 h Kroměříž Tsar’s Room are probably the most honest – if he had never bought KH Praha 2:30 h magnificent among them. anything else, but Apollo and Kroměříž Marsyas, a late work by Titian, he 269 km 40 min. A major renovation and makeover would still have guaranteed himself Brno 65 km 3:55 h Kroměříž was received also by the Chateau immortality in Kroměříž. However, his 1:10 h Garden closely adjoining the chateau collections were far more extensive, so Gardens and Other Wonders of buildings. Today's appearance came today you can marvel at paintings by Athens of Haná about much later and changed the Cranach, Bruegel, van Dyck and sample during the tour. An absolute previous concept into a unique and Veronese. These paintings make up must is a visit to the Flower Garden and Nicknamed “Athens of Haná”, rugged English style landscape park the second most significant collection Chateau Garden, which have unique Kroměříž is a beautiful historic town — while the typical French Baroque in the country, while the absolutely experiences in store for you. with a chateau, art gallery, mint, garden was preserved at the west most important Czech collection is the wine cellars, world renowned wing of the chateau. But one garden coins exhibited in the former Episcopal Tips for Trips gardens and compelling genius didn’t seem to be enough. Bishop Karl Mint. If you are tuned to a Baroque note, loci. Unlike other places where it is II decided to turn the inhospitable www.zamek-kromeriz.cz you should definitely set out for the necessary to trace the origin of their swamp beyond the town borders into wonderful Pilgrimage Basilica of the fame and splendour over several a wonderful place of idyllic relaxation, Experiences Assumption of the Virgin Mary on centuries, with Kroměříž we know it an amazing Pleasure Garden. He In the Archbishop's Chateau you can Svatý Hostýn, regarded as a landmark to the exact day. The turning point to enthusiastically shared his vision choose from several guided tours of Hostýn Hills. Not far from here lies steer the town towards today’s beauty with architects who had already seen leading to the historical halls, picture Holešov, featuring one of the lesser and grandiosity, was March 12, 1664, in Italy and Holland the principle gallery, sala terrena, the chateau tower known Baroque treasures of the Czech the day when Karl II of Lichtenstein- of a garden as a separate entity, not or you may embark on a separate Republic, a beautiful chateau with a Kastelkorn, a determined and very directly adjoining any residence. tour of the Archbishop's wine cellars. French garden, as well as remarkable capable man, was elected Olomouc The result is absolutely stunning Located at a depth of six and a half Jewish sites – the Shakh Synagogue Bishop. One of his main concerns was even today. The Bishop had a Latin metres, the cellars with historical and Jewish cemetery. to improve the Episcopal seats badly inscription installed in the completed barrels stretch over a thousand square www.czechtourism.com/c/holy- damaged by the Thirty Years' War – garden: “Enter, valued guest, and see metres, with the oldest one dating hostyn and the Kroměříž summer residence the laborious transformation of once from 1805 and the largest holding www.holesov.info was one of the most important. marshy and desolate land. Use in good 19,100 litres. Of what? Excellent health the harmless pleasures of the communion wine, which you can

64 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 65 Svatý Kopeček Olomouc Heading for the Largest Sculpture and Svatý Kopeček

66 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 67 the architect and stonemason Václav chapel on Svatý Kopeček (Holy 46 Render. Magnificent houses of god Hill) near Olomouc was replaced with Column of the Holy Morava were erected – such as the Church the monumental and spectacular Trinity of St. Michael with three domes, the Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Church of Our Lady of the Snows, Mary (in 1995, its status was raised 2,2 km a part of the Jesuit school buildings, to Minor Basilica). The Moravian 6 min Dobrovského drawing inspiration from the Church Baroque masterpiece was built to MasarykovaBystřice tř. of St. Nicolas, Lesser Town, Prague. the design of the Imperial architect Horní Olomouc witnessed the construction Giovanni Pietro Tencalla, who had nám. Bezručovy of palaces (such as the lavish Salm's been behind renovation projects on Dolní sady nám. Palace), houses and fountains, as other Olomouc gems, such as the 2,2 km well as large-scale rebuilding and Church of St. Michael, Archbishop's Smetanovy 35 min adaptations to the greater glory of God Palace and Klášterní Hradisko. sady and greater comfort of the nobility and The Baroque church with a two-tower clergy. frontage with side wings, a parapet Olomouc with statues, cloister and a chapel of Morava The importance of the city was the Virgin Mary is one of the most 500 m Olomouc further emphasised by being home distinctive landmarks of Moravia, 2:05 h to the second oldest university in harmoniously complementing and 1:34 h Praha the Czech lands, the seat of bishops crowning the landscape profile exactly Olomouc 2:40 h 280 km and then archbishops from 1777. as required and desired by Baroque 77 km 0:50 h Not surprisingly, the Archbishop's ideals. Olomouc Brno 1:07 h Palace is still one of the most www.tourism.olomouc.eu Heading for the Largest treasured Baroque buildings in the www.czechtourism.com/c/ Sculpture and Svatý Kopeček country with walls which will take your olomouc-svaty-kopecek enough to witness here some of the breath away whether you are standing www.olmuart.cz pilgrimages, masses or church events, In Baroque times, Olomouc was the inside or outside, as you can actually you will cherish it as an unforgettable most significant city of Moravia, see for yourself. Recovering from the Experiences experience. holding spectacular celebrations. Thirty Years' War the town put on Just a simple walk through Olomouc Having just been appointed, a new a brand new coat, a stylish, shining, can provide an utterly exciting Tips for Trips Bishop would ride in a gold carriage golden coat of lavish Baroque. Let’s experience. Its genius loci, to a large Once on Svatý Kopeček, head to drawn by six pairs of horses adorned talk about fountains again. Olomouc's extent influenced by the Baroque the nearby Zoo. If you are after with gold, bringing the whole excited set of six large Baroque stone era, is very powerful here. The a wonderful trip, try Javoříč, Mladeč town an unforgettable display. fountains with sculptural decoration Archbishop's Palace offers a guided or Zbrašov Caves. For relaxation, set is unique and perfectly symbolizes the tour exploring impressive halls out for Slatinice Spa. And Baroque? As other places, Olomouc experienced proud resurrection of the town which which feature abundant decorations Kroměříž is just a short distance away rapid building activities, resulting was severely damaged by Swedish and period furniture. Recently, the and our secret tip is Náměšť na Hané, for example in the magnificent troops. Named after ancient heroes, recovered painting “Franz Joseph I with its Baroque chateau exhibiting 35 metre high UNESCO listed Plague each of the fountains also represents a ascending the Austrian throne in porcelain collections and carriages. Column of the Holy Trinity, brilliant work of art. Olomouc in 1848” has been added zamek.namestnahane.cz the largest sculptural group in the to the tour for you to admire. Being Czech Republic. It even includes a It is more than logical that the steeped- the only one in the country to focus small chapel with six windows and in-legend relief of the Virgin Mary exclusively on spiritual culture, the its consecration was attended by of the Holy Hill, which various Archdiocesan Museum displays gems Empress Maria Theresa. Nearby, a miracles were attributed to, received of Baroque fine art in its picture gallery. somewhat smaller and older, Marian a new and truly dignified temple in On Svatý Kopeček make sure to pay Column was designed and carved by the time of Baroque. The then simple a visit to the Basilica. If you are lucky

68 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 69 Looking after Count Wallenstein’s Secret Tips library, he was reminiscing and writing. For example the world’s first science Baroque left countless historical sites fiction novel. Searching for his tracks in in the Czech Republic. Ranging from the chateau and the gardens is exciting. simple crosses in fields to chateaux, The chateau itself cherishes several of churches and palaces. How about them (such as the mechanism for the setting off to five places that might not secret entry into his study) and in the rank among the top visited sites, but are Baroque garden you might hear the still stunning and have a Baroque soul? silent echo of his footsteps. www.czechtourism.com/c/ Ploskovice duchcov-castle Ploskovice Chateau is a delicate Krásný Dvůr Late Baroque one-storey structure built on the edge of a terrain fracture, Count Franz Josef Czernin had the adapted as a terrace with open arcade family residence in Krásný Dvůr rebuilt galleries in the shape of lobster claws, into a splendid Baroque chateau, Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou with unique artificial grottos on the logically incorporating the surrounding level of an extensive Baroque park, landscape. The three-winged chateau crowned with the chateau. Here every embraces the Court of Honour, woman feels like a Princess and every where a trio of still quite visible tree man like a courteous knight. alleys used to fan out further into the www.czechtourism.com/c/ countryside. The beginnings of the ploskovice-chateau famous and unique English park Wandering in Search of date back to the Baroque period. Nebílovy The biggest draw of the chateau exposition is a collection of dog Two opposite buildings, forming portraits – quite a rarity in Europe. a Court of Honour. A unique structure www.krasny-dvur.cz Baroque in the Czech Republic, perfectly representing Viennese Baroque. The Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou chateau shelters various gems, such as the oldest Central European Baroque The fabulous Jaroměřice Chateau, Ambience still life paintings – large canvases by together with the Church of St. German painter Gottfried Libalt. You Margaret and the impressive will be captivated by the main hall with Baroque garden are often referred to paintwork depicting a tropical forest. as Moravian Versailles. You will www.czechtourism.com/c/ see beautiful interiors of the Baroque nebilovy-chateau aristocratic residence, as well as guest rooms and the chateau kitchen, Duchcov followed by the magnificent interior of the church … and there is more to The list of world Baroque personalities come – because antique toys await you should undoubtedly include Giacomo in the loft. Casanova, who spent the last thirteen www.czechtourism.com/c/ Ploskovice years of his life at Duchcov Chateau. jaromerice-chateau

70 Guide to Baroque Czech Republic 71 @czechrepublic 12 historical sites on the selected baroque sites UNESCO Heritage List @VisitCZ

Krupka Chlumec Liberec Dubí Ruprechtice @VisitCZ Ústí nad Vižňov Labem Vernéřovice Šonov Duchcov Teplice Germany Broumov Poland @VisitCZ Ploskovice Hvězda Otovice Bezděkov Božanov CzechTourism Velká Bukovina Kuks Josefov Karlovy Krásný Dvůr #VisitCZ Loket Vary Valeč Veltrusy Hradec Králové Bečov n. Chyše Teplou Mladotice Kladruby PRAHA n. Labem Hubenov Pardubice Mariánské Manětín Mariánská Lázně Plasy Týnice Kutná Hora Ostrava Skalka Litomyšl Plzeň Náměšť Kladruby Dobříš na Hané Svatý Příbram Kopeček Nebílovy Žďár nad Zelená Hora Sázavou Olomouc Přeštice Nepomuk Obyčtov Lnáře Svatý Klatovy Jihlava Hostýn Křtiny Kroměříž Holešov Zlín Třebíč Brno Telč Jaroměřice Střílky n. Rokytnou Guide to Baroque Buchlovice Ohrada Czech Republic České Published by CzechTourism, Holašovice Budějovice Prague 2016 © Vranov Lechovice Pavlov Vinohradská 46, 120 41 Praha 2 nad Dyjí Mikulov Slovakia [email protected] Český Lednice-Valtice Krumlov Complex [email protected] Valtice Text: Rostislav Křivánek; Translation: LangLinx Cover photo: Buchlovice, Aleš Motejl; Austria Photos: Archive CzechTourism; Aleš Motejl; UPVISION; Michal Vitásek; Libor Sváček; Ladislav Renner; Dagmar Veselková; Kuba Špatný; The data given cannot be guaranteed in spite Jaroslav Mareš; Zdeněk Vošický; Cesko; Tomáš Vojtíšek; František Renza; of meticulous research. Lina Németh, SOFFA; Jan Miklín; Pavel Štyl The official tourist presentation of the Czech Republic. Production: Vydavatelství MCU, www.mcumedia.cz Year: 2016, 1st edition Not for sale. ISBN: 978-80-7513-146-1 www.czechbaroque.com In Pursuit of Baroque Gems by Train Take a train ride and discover the most beautiful Baroque sites in the Czech Republic

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Olomouc by train from Prague in 2 hrs 5 min.