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Observations of Seiche Forcing and Amplification in Three Small Harbors

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Observations of Seiche Forcing and Amplification in Three Small Harbors OBSERVATIONS OF SEICHE FORCING AND AMPLIFICATION IN THREE SMALL HARBORS By Michele Okihiro1 and R. T. Guza2 ABSTRAC!: .E~tensive field observation~ are used to characterize seiches (periods 0.5-30 min) in three small harbo~s wIth sImIlar surface areas (-I km ), water depths (5-12 m), and swell wave climates. On the continental shelf Just off~hore of each ~arbor mouth, the energy levels of waves in the infragravity frequency band 0.002­ 0.03 Hz (penods 0.5-10 mm) vary by more than a factor of 200 in response to comparably large variations in swell energ~ levels. Energy levels in this swell-driven frequency band also vary (less dramatically) in response to. ch~ges ~n the swell freque.ncy and with tidal stage. Motions at longer seiche periods (10-30 min) are pnmanly dnven by mete?rolo~lcal and .other processes (a tsunami-generated seiche is described). As has often been observed, the ~mpltficatlOn of seiche energy within each harbor basin (relative to energy in the same frequency band outsIde the harbor) varies as a function of seiche frequency. and is largest at the frequency of the I.owest resonant harbor mode (Le .• the Helmholtz or grave mode). At all three harbors. the average ampli­ fi~atlOn of t?e grav.e ~od.e decreases .(by at least a factor of 2) with increasing seiche energy. a trend consistent w~th. a nonltnear diSSipatIOn mechamsm such as flow separation in the harbor mouth or sidewall and bottom fnctlOn. INTRODUCTION sites both near and far from harbors) on the continental shelf Seiches in small harbors are standing long waves at the in depths comparable to the depths of small harbors [Le., 0(10 periods of the harbor normal modes, typically in the period m)] show that free waves usually contribute the bulk of the range 0.5-30 min. The seiche band in small harbors includes energy in the swell-driven infragravity band (e.g., 0.5-10 min both swell-driven infragravity waves [nominally 0.5-10 min periods) (Okihiro et al. 1992; Elgar et al. 1992; Bowers 1992; Herbers et al. 1995a). Bound and free infragravity energy lev­ ~eriods. e.g., Munk (1949)] and shelf waves [10-30 min pe­ nods, e.g., Munk et al. (1956)]. Energy at the resonant periods els on the shelf are similar only when swell energy levels are very high. Free infragravity energy levels are not predictable is amplified within the harbor. relative to outside the harbor, from the swell properties because their generation and subse­ whereas motions within the harbor at other periods are sup­ quent propagation are not understood. Recent observations pressed. When sufficiently energetic, seiches cause costly de­ lays in loading operations and damage ships and shoreside show that free infragravity waves are generated in and radiated from very shallow water and subsequently refractively trapped facilities. Although numerical and laboratory studies of harbor on the shelf (Elgar et al. 1994; Herbers et al. 1994, and 1995b). seiche exist, their utility has been limited because energy lev­ Thus. although infragravity waves on the shelf adjacent to the els in the seiche frequency band outside natural harbors (which harbors are likely nonlinearly generated on nearby beaches. directly drive seiches within the harbor) are generally un­ nonlinear generation effects (e.g.• bound infragravity waves) known, and the damping mechanisms that apparently can limit may be negligible in the harbor (Wu and Liu 1990) and near seiche amplification inside harbors are poorly understood. the harbor mouth. Most previous field data used to study harbor seiches have oas found qualitatively good agreement between seiche been restricted to a relatively small range of conditions sam­ amplifications (e.g., the ratio of energies inside and outside the pled during short deployments. Additionally. the length of in­ harbor at the same frequency) observed at Barbers Point and dividual time series was sometimes insufficient to resolve the the predictions of a linear, inviscid numerical model. This con­ frequencies of the seiche modes, and spatial coverage of the firms the underlying model assumption that seiche in small sensors was often sparse. In some cases. the offshore obser­ harbors can be approximated as the linear response of the vations needed to calculate seiche amplifications were absent semi-enclosed basin to free long waves outside the harbor. If or collected far from the harbor mouth. Recently more com­ the seiche were undamped. the amplification at any particular prehensive data sets have been collected at three small harbors frequency would be constant. However, oas observed a de­ in California and Hawaii. Seiche at one of these sites (Barbers crease in amplification with increasing swell and seiche en­ Point, Hawaii) is discussed in Okihiro et al. (1993) (hereafter ergy, consistent with increased dissipation. These previous re­ OaS). Observations of seiche in these harbors are compared sults motivate the approach adopted here, where we consider and contrasted here in order to assess the generality of the first the motions at seiche frequencies both outside and inside Barbers Point results. the harbors, and then the seiche amplification (as a function It has been shown theoretically and in laboratory experi­ of both seiche frequency and swell and infragravity energy ments that low-frequency bound waves (associated with levels). groups of swell impinging on a harbor mouth) can drive harbor seiche at the group frequency (Bowers 1977; Mei and Agnon Downloaded from ascelibrary.org by University of California, San Diego on 10/09/13. Copyright ASCE. For personal use only; all rights reserved. 1989; Wu and Liu 1990). However, observations (including FIELD SITES AND MEASUREMENTS 'Ctr. for Coast. Studies, Scripps Instn. of Oceanography, Univ. of Cal- Bottom-mounted pressure sensors2 were deployed at three ifornia at San Diego. 9500 Gilman Dr., La Jolla, CA 92093-0209. small harbors with similar [0(1 km )] surface areas and depths 'Ctr. for Coast. Studies. Scripps Instn. of Oceanography, Univ. of Cal- (Fig. I). Barbers Point and Kahului Harbors in Hawaii are ifornia at San Diego. 9500 Gilman Dr., La Jolla, CA. commercial harbors and Oceanside Harbor in California is pri- Note. Discussion open until March I, 1997. To extend the closing date marily used by recreational boaters. one month, a written request must be filed with the ASCE Manager of B b Journals. The manuscript for this paper was submitted for review and ar ers Point Harbor is located on a straight coastline on possible publication on August 28,1995. This paper is part of the Journal the southwest side of the island of Oahu. where offshore bot- of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, Vol. 122, No.5, tom contours are relatively parallel and steep. The main harbor September/October, 1996. ©ASCE, ISSN 0733-950X/9610005-0232-0238/ basin is approximately 12 m deep and there is a 1 km long $4.00 + $.50 per page. Paper No. 11474. dredged entrance channel [Fig. l(a)]. A shallow (4-5 m depth) 232/ JOURNAL OF WATERWAY, PORT, COASTAL, AND OCEAN ENGINEERING / SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 1996 J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng. 1996.122:232-238. FIG. 1. Instrument Positions (Solid Circles and Squares) and Water Depths (m) small boat marina connects to the deep-draft harbor through a shown in Figs. 2(a and b) (spectra from other harbor gauges channel near the main harbor entrance. Four sensors were lo­ are similar). The seiche-frequency spectra ESEICHE(f) offshore cated in the main harbor basin and one about 0.5 km offshore (outside) of Barbers Point harbor is approximately white [Fig. in 8.5 m depth [Fig. l(a)]. 2(a)]. However, outside of Oceanside and (especially) Kahului Kahului harbor is situated at the apex of a large V-shaped harbors, the energy levels at very low seiche frequencies are bay formed by an indentation on the north shore of the island relatively elevated. On average 14% and 57% (respectively) of Maui [Fig. l(b)]. The offshore bathymetry at this site is of the total seiche-frequency energy is at frequencies less than complicated. East of the harbor entrance, shallow areas «3 m 0.002 Hz, compared with only 7% of the offshore energy at depth) extend 1-2 km offshore, whereas to the west the bot­ Barbers Point. In contrast to the relatively smooth energy spec­ tom slope is steeper and relatively constant. Directly offshore tra observed offshore, seiche spectra in the harbors are char­ of the harbor entrance the depth is 10-12 m. The 11 m deep acterized by peaks corresponding to the frequencies of reso­ operational portion of the harbor is surrounded by shallower nant standing waves [Fig. 2(b)]. regions along the western and southern perimeter. A 200 m The average cumulative energy ESEICHE outside the harbors wide entrance channel faces northward and is bounded by two increases smoothly [Fig. 2(c)] in contrast to the step increases rubble-mound breakwaters. Four sensors within the harbor inside the harbor at the resonant frequencies [Fig. 2(d)]. En­ were in mean depths between 2 and 10 m. The sensor outside ergy at frequencies below 0.002 Hz on average accounts for the harbor is about 0.4 km offshore of the channel entrance in about 70% of the total seiche-band energy inside Kahului and 14.5 m depth. Oceanside harbors but only 40% at Barbers Point. Oceanside Harbor, located on a relatively straight portion of the Southern California coastline, is adjacent to mildly sloping Effect of Swell Energy beaches. Breakwaters border both sides of the harbor entrance [Fig. l(c)] and harbor depths range from 2 to 8 m. Sensors At frequencies above -0.03 Hz the offshore spectra at all were located in depths of 5-8 m at three harbor sites and at three sites are typically [e.g., Fig.
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