Thompson/Ocean 420/Winter 2005 Tide Dynamics 1
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Well-Balanced Schemes for the Shallow Water Equations with Coriolis Forces
Well-balanced schemes for the shallow water equations with Coriolis forces Alina Chertock, Michael Dudzinski, Alexander Kurganov & Mária Lukáčová- Medvid’ová Numerische Mathematik ISSN 0029-599X Volume 138 Number 4 Numer. Math. (2018) 138:939-973 DOI 10.1007/s00211-017-0928-0 1 23 Your article is protected by copyright and all rights are held exclusively by Springer- Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature. This e-offprint is for personal use only and shall not be self-archived in electronic repositories. If you wish to self-archive your article, please use the accepted manuscript version for posting on your own website. You may further deposit the accepted manuscript version in any repository, provided it is only made publicly available 12 months after official publication or later and provided acknowledgement is given to the original source of publication and a link is inserted to the published article on Springer's website. The link must be accompanied by the following text: "The final publication is available at link.springer.com”. 1 23 Author's personal copy Numer. Math. (2018) 138:939–973 Numerische https://doi.org/10.1007/s00211-017-0928-0 Mathematik Well-balanced schemes for the shallow water equations with Coriolis forces Alina Chertock1 · Michael Dudzinski2 · Alexander Kurganov3,4 · Mária Lukáˇcová-Medvid’ová5 Received: 28 April 2014 / Revised: 19 September 2017 / Published online: 2 December 2017 © Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature 2017 Abstract In the present paper we study shallow water equations with bottom topog- raphy and Coriolis forces. The latter yield non-local potential operators that need to be taken into account in order to derive a well-balanced numerical scheme. -
Time and Tides in the Gulf of Maine a Dockside Dialogue Between Two Old Friends
1 Time and Tides in the Gulf of Maine A dockside dialogue between two old friends by David A. Brooks It's impossible to visit Maine's coast and not notice the tides. The twice-daily rise and fall of sea level never fails to impress, especially downeast, toward the Canadian border, where the tidal range can exceed twenty feet. Proceeding northeastward into the Bay of Fundy, the range grows steadily larger, until at the head of the bay, "moon" tides of greater than fifty feet can leave ships wallowing in the mud, awaiting the water's return. My dockside companion, nodding impatiently, interrupts: Yes, yes, but why is this so? Why are the tides so large along the Maine coast, and why does the tidal range increase so dramatically northeastward? Well, my friend, before we address these important questions, we should review some basic facts about the tides. Here, let me sketch a few things that will remind you about our place in the sky. A quiet rumble, as if a dark cloud had suddenly passed overhead. Didn’t expect a physics lesson on this beautiful day. 2 The only physics needed, my friend, you learned as a child, so not to worry. The sketch is a top view, looking down on the earth’s north pole. You see the moon in its monthly orbit, moving in the same direction as the earth’s rotation. And while this is going on, the earth and moon together orbit the distant sun once a year, in about twelve months, right? Got it skippah. -
Moons Phases and Tides
Moon’s Phases and Tides Moon Phases Half of the Moon is always lit up by the sun. As the Moon orbits the Earth, we see different parts of the lighted area. From Earth, the lit portion we see of the moon waxes (grows) and wanes (shrinks). The revolution of the Moon around the Earth makes the Moon look as if it is changing shape in the sky The Moon passes through four major shapes during a cycle that repeats itself every 29.5 days. The phases always follow one another in the same order: New moon Waxing Crescent First quarter Waxing Gibbous Full moon Waning Gibbous Third (last) Quarter Waning Crescent • IF LIT FROM THE RIGHT, IT IS WAXING OR GROWING • IF DARKENING FROM THE RIGHT, IT IS WANING (SHRINKING) Tides • The Moon's gravitational pull on the Earth cause the seas and oceans to rise and fall in an endless cycle of low and high tides. • Much of the Earth's shoreline life depends on the tides. – Crabs, starfish, mussels, barnacles, etc. – Tides caused by the Moon • The Earth's tides are caused by the gravitational pull of the Moon. • The Earth bulges slightly both toward and away from the Moon. -As the Earth rotates daily, the bulges move across the Earth. • The moon pulls strongly on the water on the side of Earth closest to the moon, causing the water to bulge. • It also pulls less strongly on Earth and on the water on the far side of Earth, which results in tides. What causes tides? • Tides are the rise and fall of ocean water. -
Of Universal Gravitation and of the Theory of Relativity
ASTRONOMICAL APPLICATIONS OF THE LAW OF UNIVERSAL GRAVITATION AND OF THE THEORY OF RELATIVITY By HUGH OSCAR PEEBLES Bachelor of Science The University of Texas Austin, Texas 1955 Submitted to the faculty of the Graduate School of the Oklahoma State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF SCIENCE August, 1960 ASTRONOMICAL APPLICATIONS OF THE LAW OF UNIVERSAL GRAVITATION AND OF THE THEORY OF RELATIVITY Report Approved: Dean of the Graduate School ii ACKNOWLEDGEMENT I express my deep appreciation to Dr. Leon w. Schroeder, Associate Professor of Physics, for his counsel, his criticisms, and his interest in the preparation of this study. My appre ciation is also extended to Dr. James H. Zant, Professor of Mathematics, for his guidance in the development of my graduate program. iii TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter Page I. INTRODUCTION. 1 II. THE EARTH-MOON T"EST OF THE LAW OF GRAVITATION 4 III. DERIVATION OF KEPLER'S LAWS OF PLAN.ET.ARY MOTION FROM THE LAW OF UNIVERSAL GRAVITATION. • • • • • • • • • 9 The First Law-Law of Elliptical Paths • • • • • 10 The Second Law-Law of Equal Areas • • • • • • • 15 The Third Law-Harmonic Law • • • • • • • 19 IV. DETERMINATION OF THE MASSES OF ASTRONOMICAL BODIES. 20 V. ELEMENTARY THEORY OF TIDES. • • • • • • • • • • • • 26 VI. ELEMENTARY THEORY OF THE EQUATORIAL BULGE OF PLANETS 33 VII. THE DISCOVERY OF NEW PLANETS. • • • • • • • • • 36 VIII. ASTRONOMICAL TESTS OF THE THEORY OF RELATIVITY. 40 BIBLIOGRAPHY . 45 iv LIST OF FIGURES Figure Page 1. Fall of the Uoon Toward the Earth • • • • • • • • • • 6 2. Newton's Calculation of the Earth's Gravitational Ef- fect on the Moon. -
An Application of Kelvin Wave Expansion to Model Flow Pattern Using in Oil Spill Simulation M
Brigham Young University BYU ScholarsArchive 6th International Congress on Environmental International Congress on Environmental Modelling and Software - Leipzig, Germany - July Modelling and Software 2012 Jul 1st, 12:00 AM An Application of Kelvin Wave Expansion to Model Flow Pattern Using in Oil Spill Simulation M. A. Badri Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarsarchive.byu.edu/iemssconference Badri, M. A., "An Application of Kelvin Wave Expansion to Model Flow Pattern Using in Oil Spill Simulation" (2012). International Congress on Environmental Modelling and Software. 323. https://scholarsarchive.byu.edu/iemssconference/2012/Stream-B/323 This Event is brought to you for free and open access by the Civil and Environmental Engineering at BYU ScholarsArchive. It has been accepted for inclusion in International Congress on Environmental Modelling and Software by an authorized administrator of BYU ScholarsArchive. For more information, please contact [email protected], [email protected]. International Environmental Modelling and Software Society (iEMSs) 2012 International Congress on Environmental Modelling and Software Managing Resources of a Limited Planet, Sixth Biennial Meeting, Leipzig, Germany R. Seppelt, A.A. Voinov, S. Lange, D. Bankamp (Eds.) http://www.iemss.org/society/index.php/iemss-2012-proceedings ١ ٢ ٣ ٤ An Application of Kelvin Wave Expansion ٥ to Model Flow Pattern Using in Oil Spill ٦ Simulation ٧ ٨ 1 M.A. Badri ٩ Subsea R&D center, P.O.Box 134, Isfahan University of Technology, Isfahan, Iran ١٠ [email protected] ١١ ١٢ ١٣ Abstract: In this paper, data of tidal constituents from co-tidal charts are invoked to ١٤ determine water surface level and velocity. -
Tsunami, Seiches, and Tides Key Ideas Seiches
Tsunami, Seiches, And Tides Key Ideas l The wavelengths of tsunami, seiches and tides are so great that they always behave as shallow-water waves. l Because wave speed is proportional to wavelength, these waves move rapidly through the water. l A seiche is a pendulum-like rocking of water in a basin. l Tsunami are caused by displacement of water by forces that cause earthquakes, by landslides, by eruptions or by asteroid impacts. l Tides are caused by the gravitational attraction of the sun and the moon, by inertia, and by basin resonance. 1 Seiches What are the characteristics of a seiche? Water rocking back and forth at a specific resonant frequency in a confined area is a seiche. Seiches are also called standing waves. The node is the position in a standing wave where water moves sideways, but does not rise or fall. 2 1 Seiches A seiche in Lake Geneva. The blue line represents the hypothetical whole wave of which the seiche is a part. 3 Tsunami and Seismic Sea Waves Tsunami are long-wavelength, shallow-water, progressive waves caused by the rapid displacement of ocean water. Tsunami generated by the vertical movement of earth along faults are seismic sea waves. What else can generate tsunami? llandslides licebergs falling from glaciers lvolcanic eruptions lother direct displacements of the water surface 4 2 Tsunami and Seismic Sea Waves A tsunami, which occurred in 1946, was generated by a rupture along a submerged fault. The tsunami traveled at speeds of 212 meters per second. 5 Tsunami Speed How can the speed of a tsunami be calculated? Remember, because tsunami have extremely long wavelengths, they always behave as shallow water waves. -
Tidal Hydrodynamic Response to Sea Level Rise and Coastal Geomorphology in the Northern Gulf of Mexico
University of Central Florida STARS Electronic Theses and Dissertations, 2004-2019 2015 Tidal hydrodynamic response to sea level rise and coastal geomorphology in the Northern Gulf of Mexico Davina Passeri University of Central Florida Part of the Civil Engineering Commons Find similar works at: https://stars.library.ucf.edu/etd University of Central Florida Libraries http://library.ucf.edu This Doctoral Dissertation (Open Access) is brought to you for free and open access by STARS. It has been accepted for inclusion in Electronic Theses and Dissertations, 2004-2019 by an authorized administrator of STARS. For more information, please contact [email protected]. STARS Citation Passeri, Davina, "Tidal hydrodynamic response to sea level rise and coastal geomorphology in the Northern Gulf of Mexico" (2015). Electronic Theses and Dissertations, 2004-2019. 1429. https://stars.library.ucf.edu/etd/1429 TIDAL HYDRODYNAMIC RESPONSE TO SEA LEVEL RISE AND COASTAL GEOMORPHOLOGY IN THE NORTHERN GULF OF MEXICO by DAVINA LISA PASSERI B.S. University of Notre Dame, 2010 A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Department of Civil, Environmental, and Construction Engineering in the College of Engineering and Computer Science at the University of Central Florida Orlando, Florida Spring Term 2015 Major Professor: Scott C. Hagen © 2015 Davina Lisa Passeri ii ABSTRACT Sea level rise (SLR) has the potential to affect coastal environments in a multitude of ways, including submergence, increased flooding, and increased shoreline erosion. Low-lying coastal environments such as the Northern Gulf of Mexico (NGOM) are particularly vulnerable to the effects of SLR, which may have serious consequences for coastal communities as well as ecologically and economically significant estuaries. -
Part II-1 Water Wave Mechanics
Chapter 1 EM 1110-2-1100 WATER WAVE MECHANICS (Part II) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents Page II-1-1. Introduction ............................................................II-1-1 II-1-2. Regular Waves .........................................................II-1-3 a. Introduction ...........................................................II-1-3 b. Definition of wave parameters .............................................II-1-4 c. Linear wave theory ......................................................II-1-5 (1) Introduction .......................................................II-1-5 (2) Wave celerity, length, and period.......................................II-1-6 (3) The sinusoidal wave profile...........................................II-1-9 (4) Some useful functions ...............................................II-1-9 (5) Local fluid velocities and accelerations .................................II-1-12 (6) Water particle displacements .........................................II-1-13 (7) Subsurface pressure ................................................II-1-21 (8) Group velocity ....................................................II-1-22 (9) Wave energy and power.............................................II-1-26 (10)Summary of linear wave theory.......................................II-1-29 d. Nonlinear wave theories .................................................II-1-30 (1) Introduction ......................................................II-1-30 (2) Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory ...................................II-1-32 -
How a Tide Clock Works.Pub
Conventional time clocks have a 12 hour cycle, with 1 hand for hours, another for minutes. Tide clocks have a single hand, and a cycle of 12 hours 25 minutes, coinciding to an average time of about 6 hours 12 minutes between high and low tides. High tide is indicated when the hand is at the ‘12 o’clock’ position, low tide is indicated with the hand at the ‘6 o’clock’ position. A tide clock is not indicating 6 or 12 o’clock of course. It is merely a convenient reference point on the dial, showing us when our local tide is high or low. 12 is marked as High, 6 is marked as Low. However, the hour markings on the dial between the High and Low tide points do show us the number of hours since the last high or low tide, and the hours before the next high or low tide. A tide clock which has been initially set correctly will continue to display tide predictions quite accurately, requiring resetting only at intervals of about 4 months, depending upon the location. A brief explanation of how the tidal cycle works The Moon is the major cause of the tides. The ‘lunar day’ (the time it takes for the Moon to re-appear at the same place in the sky) is 24 hours and 50 minutes. New Zealand, and many other places in the world, have 2 high tides and 2 low tides each day. These are called semi-diurnal tides. Some areas of the world (eg Freemantle in Australia), have only one tide cycle per day, known as diurnal tides. -
Chapter 5 Water Levels and Flow
253 CHAPTER 5 WATER LEVELS AND FLOW 1. INTRODUCTION The purpose of this chapter is to provide the hydrographer and technical reader the fundamental information required to understand and apply water levels, derived water level products and datums, and water currents to carry out field operations in support of hydrographic surveying and mapping activities. The hydrographer is concerned not only with the elevation of the sea surface, which is affected significantly by tides, but also with the elevation of lake and river surfaces, where tidal phenomena may have little effect. The term ‘tide’ is traditionally accepted and widely used by hydrographers in connection with the instrumentation used to measure the elevation of the water surface, though the term ‘water level’ would be more technically correct. The term ‘current’ similarly is accepted in many areas in connection with tidal currents; however water currents are greatly affected by much more than the tide producing forces. The term ‘flow’ is often used instead of currents. Tidal forces play such a significant role in completing most hydrographic surveys that tide producing forces and fundamental tidal variations are only described in general with appropriate technical references in this chapter. It is important for the hydrographer to understand why tide, water level and water current characteristics vary both over time and spatially so that they are taken fully into account for survey planning and operations which will lead to successful production of accurate surveys and charts. Because procedures and approaches to measuring and applying water levels, tides and currents vary depending upon the country, this chapter covers general principles using documented examples as appropriate for illustration. -
Fluid Simulation Using Shallow Water Equation
Fluid Simulation using Shallow Water Equation Dhruv Kore Itika Gupta Undergraduate Student Graduate Student University of Illinois at Chicago University of Illinois at Chicago [email protected] [email protected] 847-345-9745 312-478-0764 ABSTRACT rivers and channel. As the name suggest, the main In this paper, we present a technique, which shows how characteristic of shallow Water flows is that the vertical waves once generated from a small drop continue to ripple. dimension is much smaller as compared to the horizontal Waves interact with each other and on collision change the dimension. Naïve Stroke Equation defines the motion of form and direction. Once the waves strike the boundary, fluids and from these equations we derive SWE. they return with the same speed and in sometime, depending on the delay, you can see continuous ripples in In Next section we talk about the related works under the the surface. We use shallow water equation to achieve the heading Literature Review. Then we will explain the desired output. framework and other concepts necessary to understand the SWE and wave equation. In the section followed by it, we Author Keywords show the results achieved using our implementation. Then Naïve Stroke Equation; Shallow Water Equation; Fluid finally we talk about conclusion and future work. Simulation; WebGL; Quadratic function. LITERATURE REVIEW INTRODUCTION In [2] author in detail explains the Shallow water equation In early years of fluid simulation, procedural surface with its derivation. Since then a lot of authors has used generation was used to represent waves as presented by SWE to present the formation of waves in water. -
Kelvin/Rossby Wave Partition of Madden-Julian Oscillation Circulations
climate Article Kelvin/Rossby Wave Partition of Madden-Julian Oscillation Circulations Patrick Haertel Department of Earth and Planetary Sciences, Yale University, New Haven, CT 06511, USA; [email protected] Abstract: The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a large-scale convective and circulation system that propagates slowly eastward over the equatorial Indian and Western Pacific Oceans. Multiple, conflicting theories describe its growth and propagation, most involving equatorial Kelvin and/or Rossby waves. This study partitions MJO circulations into Kelvin and Rossby wave components for three sets of data: (1) a modeled linear response to an MJO-like heating; (2) a composite MJO based on atmospheric sounding data; and (3) a composite MJO based on data from a Lagrangian atmospheric model. The first dataset has a simple dynamical interpretation, the second provides a realistic view of MJO circulations, and the third occurs in a laboratory supporting controlled experiments. In all three of the datasets, the propagation of Kelvin waves is similar, suggesting that the dynamics of Kelvin wave circulations in the MJO can be captured by a system of equations linearized about a basic state of rest. In contrast, the Rossby wave component of the observed MJO’s circulation differs substantially from that in our linear model, with Rossby gyres moving eastward along with the heating and migrating poleward relative to their linear counterparts. These results support the use of a system of equations linearized about a basic state of rest for the Kelvin wave component of MJO circulation, but they question its use for the Rossby wave component. Keywords: Madden Julian Oscillation; equatorial Rossby wave; equatorial Kelvin wave Citation: Haertel, P.