Transformation of Infragravity Waves During Hurricane Overwash
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Two-Soliton Interaction As an Elementary Act of Soliton Turbulence in Integrable Systems
Two-soliton interaction as an elementary act of soliton turbulence in integrable systems E.N. Pelinovsky1,2, E.G. Shurgalina2, A.V. Sergeeva1, T.G. Talipova1, 3 3 G.A. El ∗ and R.H.J. Grimshaw 1 Department of Nonlinear Geophysical Processes, Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia 2 Department of Applied Mathematics, Nizhny Novgorod Technical University, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia 3 Department of Mathematical Sciences, Loughborough University, UK ∗Corresponding author. Tel: +44 1509 222869; Fax: +44 1509 223969; e-mail: [email protected] 1 Abstract Two-soliton interactions play a definitive role in the formation of the structure of soliton turbulence in integrable systems. To quantify the contribution of these interactions to the dynamical and statistical characteristics of the nonlinear wave field of soliton turbulence we study properties of the spatial moments of the two-soliton solution of the Korteweg – de Vries (KdV) equation. While the first two moments are integrals of the KdV evolution, the third and fourth moments undergo significant variations in the dominant interaction region, which could have strong effect on the values of the skewness and kurtosis in soliton turbulence. Keywords: KdV equation, soliton, turbulence 1 Introduction Solitons represent an intrinsic part of nonlinear wave field in weakly dispersive media and their deterministic dynamics in the framework of the Korteweg– de Vries (KdV) equation is understood very well (see e.g.[1, 2, 3]). At the same time, description of statistical properties of a random ensemble of solitons (or a more general problem of the KdV evolution of a random wave field) still remains to a large extent an unsolved problem, especially in the context of concrete physical applications. -
Geologic Resources Inventory Scoping Summary Lewis and Clark National and State Historical Parks
Geologic Resources Inventory Scoping Summary Lewis and Clark National and State Historical Parks, Oregon and Washington Geologic Resources Division Prepared by John Graham National Park Service January 2010 US Department of the Interior The Geologic Resources Inventory (GRI) provides each of 270 identified natural area National Park System units with a geologic scoping meeting and summary (this document), a digital geologic map, and a Geologic Resources Inventory report. The purpose of scoping is to identify geologic mapping coverage and needs, distinctive geologic processes and features, resource management issues, and monitoring and research needs. Geologic scoping meetings generate an evaluation of the adequacy of existing geologic maps for resource management, provide an opportunity to discuss park-specific geologic management issues, and if possible include a site visit with local experts. The National Park Service held a GRI scoping meeting for Lewis and Clark National and State Historical Parks (LEWI) on October 14, 2009 at Fort Clatsop Visitors Center, Oregon. Meeting Facilitator Bruce Heise of the Geologic Resources Division (NPS GRD) introduced the Geologic Resources Inventory program and led the discussion regarding geologic processes, features, and issues at Lewis and Clark National and State Historical Parks. GIS Facilitator Greg Mack from the Pacific West Regional Office (NPS PWRO) facilitated the discussion of map coverage. Ian Madin, Chief Scientist with the Oregon Department of Geology and Mineral Industries (DOGAMI), presented an overview of the region’s geology. On Thursday, October 15, 2009, Tom Horning (Horning Geosciences) and Ian Madin (DOGAMI) led a field trip to several units within Lewis and Clark National and State Historical Parks. -
Tllllllll:. Journal of Coastal Research, 17(4),919-930
Journal of Coastal Research 919-930 West Palm Beach, Florida Fall 2001 Obliquely Incident Wave Reflection and Runup on Steep Rough Slope Nobuhisa Kobayashi and Entin A. Karjadi Center for Applied Coastal Research University of Delaware Newark, DE 19716 ABSTRACT _ KOBAYASHI, N. and KARJADI, E.A., 2001. Obliquely incident wave reflection and runup on steep rough slope. .tllllllll:. Journal of Coastal Research, 17(4),919-930. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. ~ A two-dimensional, time-dependent numerical model for finite amplitude, shallow-water waves with arbitrary incident eusss~~ angles is developed to predict the detailed wave motions in the vicinity of the still waterline on a slope. The numerical --+4 method and the seaward and landward boundary algorithms are fairly general but the lateral boundary algorithm is b--- limited to periodic boundary conditions. The computed results for surging waves on a rough 1:2.5 slope are presented for the incident wave angles in the range 0-80°. The time-averaged continuity, momentum and energy equations are used to check the accuracy of the numerical model as well as to examine the cross-shore variations of wave setup, return current, longshore current, momentum fluxes, energy fluxes and dissipation rates. The computed reflected waves and waterline oscillations are shown to have the same alongshore wavelength as the specified nonlinear inci dent waves. The computed variations of the reflected wave phase shift and wave runup are shown to be consistent with available empirical formulas. More quantitative comparisons will be required to evaluate the model accuracy. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Oblique waves, reflection, runup, revetments, breakwaters, wave setup, return current, longshore current. -
Observations of Nearshore Infragravity Waves: Seaward and Shoreward Propagating Components A
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH, VOL. 107, NO. C8, 3095, 10.1029/2001JC000970, 2002 Observations of nearshore infragravity waves: Seaward and shoreward propagating components A. Sheremet,1 R. T. Guza,2 S. Elgar,3 and T. H. C. Herbers4 Received 14 May 2001; revised 5 December 2001; accepted 20 December 2001; published 6 August 2002. [1] The variation of seaward and shoreward infragravity energy fluxes across the shoaling and surf zones of a gently sloping sandy beach is estimated from field observations and related to forcing by groups of sea and swell, dissipation, and shoreline reflection. Data from collocated pressure and velocity sensors deployed between 1 and 6 m water depth are combined, using the assumption of cross-shore propagation, to decompose the infragravity wave field into shoreward and seaward propagating components. Seaward of the surf zone, shoreward propagating infragravity waves are amplified by nonlinear interactions with groups of sea and swell, and the shoreward infragravity energy flux increases in the onshore direction. In the surf zone, nonlinear phase coupling between infragravity waves and groups of sea and swell decreases, as does the shoreward infragravity energy flux, consistent with the cessation of nonlinear forcing and the increased importance of infragravity wave dissipation. Seaward propagating infragravity waves are not phase coupled to incident wave groups, and their energy levels suggest strong infragravity wave reflection near the shoreline. The cross-shore variation of the seaward energy flux is weaker than that of the shoreward flux, resulting in cross-shore variation of the squared infragravity reflection coefficient (ratio of seaward to shoreward energy flux) between about 0.4 and 1.5. -
Part II-1 Water Wave Mechanics
Chapter 1 EM 1110-2-1100 WATER WAVE MECHANICS (Part II) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents Page II-1-1. Introduction ............................................................II-1-1 II-1-2. Regular Waves .........................................................II-1-3 a. Introduction ...........................................................II-1-3 b. Definition of wave parameters .............................................II-1-4 c. Linear wave theory ......................................................II-1-5 (1) Introduction .......................................................II-1-5 (2) Wave celerity, length, and period.......................................II-1-6 (3) The sinusoidal wave profile...........................................II-1-9 (4) Some useful functions ...............................................II-1-9 (5) Local fluid velocities and accelerations .................................II-1-12 (6) Water particle displacements .........................................II-1-13 (7) Subsurface pressure ................................................II-1-21 (8) Group velocity ....................................................II-1-22 (9) Wave energy and power.............................................II-1-26 (10)Summary of linear wave theory.......................................II-1-29 d. Nonlinear wave theories .................................................II-1-30 (1) Introduction ......................................................II-1-30 (2) Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory ...................................II-1-32 -
Dynamics of Wave Setup Over a Steeply Sloping Fringing Reef
DECEMBER 2015 B U C K L E Y E T A L . 3005 Dynamics of Wave Setup over a Steeply Sloping Fringing Reef MARK L. BUCKLEY AND RYAN J. LOWE School of Earth and Environment, and The Oceans Institute, and ARC Centre of Excellence for Coral Reef Studies, University of Western Australia, Crawley, Western Australia, Australia JEFF E. HANSEN School of Earth and Environment, and The Oceans Institute, University of Western Australia, Crawley, Western Australia, Australia AP R. VAN DONGEREN Unit ZKS, Department AMO, Deltares, Delft, Netherlands (Manuscript received 6 April 2015, in final form 8 September 2015) ABSTRACT High-resolution observations from a 55-m-long wave flume were used to investigate the dynamics of wave setup over a steeply sloping reef profile with a bathymetry representative of many fringing coral reefs. The 16 runs incorporating a wide range of offshore wave conditions and still water levels were conducted using a 1:36 scaled fringing reef, with a 1:5 slope reef leading to a wide and shallow reef flat. Wave setdown and setup observations measured at 17 locations across the fringing reef were compared with a theoretical balance between the local cross-shore pressure and wave radiation stress gradients. This study found that when ra- diation stress gradients were calculated from observations of the radiation stress derived from linear wave theory, both wave setdown and setup were underpredicted for the majority of wave and water level conditions tested. These underpredictions were most pronounced for cases with larger wave heights and lower still water levels (i.e., cases with the greatest setdown and setup). -
West Coast Trail
Hobiton Pacific Rim National Park Reserve Entrance Anchorage Squalicum 60 LEGEND Sachsa TSL TSUNAMI HAZARD ZONE The story behind the trail: Lake Ferry to Lake Port Alberni 14 highway 570 WEST COAST TRAIL 30 60 paved road Sachawil The Huu-ay-aht, Ditidaht and Pacheedaht First Nations However, after the wreck 420 The West Coast Trail (WCT) is one of the three units 30 Self Pt 210 120 30 TSL 30 Lake Aguilar Pt Port Désiré Pachena logging road The Valencia of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve (PRNPR), Helby Is have always lived along Vancouver Island's west coast. of the Valencia in 1906, West Coast Trail forest route Tsusiat IN CASE OF EARTHQUAKE, GO Hobiton administered by Parks Canada. PRNPR protects and km distance in km from Pachena Access TO HIGH GROUND OR INLAND These nations used trails and paddling routes for trade with the loss of 133 lives, 24 300 presents the coastal temperate rainforest, near shore Calamity and travel long before foreign sailing ships reached this the public demanded Cape Beale/Keeha Trail route Creek Mackenzie Bamfield Inlet Lake km waters and cultural heritage of Vancouver Island’s West Coast Bamfield River 2 distance in km from parking lot Anchorage region over 200 the government do River Channel west coast as part of Canada’s national park system. West Coast Trail - beach route outhouse years ago. Over the more to help mariners 120 access century following along this coastline. Trail Map IR 12 Indian Reserve WEST COAST TRAIL POLICY AND PROCEDURES Dianna Brady beach access contact sailors In response the 90 30 The WCT is open from May 1 to September 30. -
Shorezone Coastal Habitat Mapping Data Summary Report Northwest
CORI Project: 12-27 September 2013 ShoreZone Coastal Habitat Mapping Data Summary Report Northwest Alaska Survey Area Prepared for: NOAA National Marine Fisheries Service, Alaska Region Prepared by: COASTAL & OCEAN RESOURCES ARCHIPELAGO MARINE RESEARCH LTD 759A Vanalman Ave., Victoria BC V8Z 3B8 Canada 525 Head Street, Victoria BC V9A 5S1 Canada (250) 658-4050 (250) 383-4535 www.coastalandoceans.com www.archipelago.ca September 2013 Northwest Alaska Summary (NOAA) 2 SUMMARY ShoreZone is a coastal habitat mapping and classification system in which georeferenced aerial imagery is collected specifically for the interpretation and integration of geological and biological features of the intertidal zone and nearshore environment. The mapping methodology is summarized in Harney et al (2008). This data summary report provides information on geomorphic and biological features of 4,694 km of shoreline mapped for the 2012 survey of Northwest Alaska. The habitat inventory is comprised of 3,469 along-shore segments (units), averaging 1,353 m in length (note that the AK Coast 1:63,360 digital shoreline shows this mapping area encompassing 3,095 km, but mapping data based on better digital shorelines represent the same area with 4,694 km stretching along the coast). Organic/estuary shorelines (such as estuaries) are mapped along 744.4 km (15.9%) of the study area. Bedrock shorelines (Shore Types 1-5) are extremely limited along the shoreline with only 0.2% mapped. Close to half of the shoreline is classified as Tundra (44.3%) with low, vegetated peat the most commonly occurring tundra shore type. Approximately a third (34.1%) of the mapped coastal environment is characterized as sediment-dominated shorelines (Shore Types 21-30). -
Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing Stephanie Contardo 1,*, Graham Symonds 2, Laura E. Segura 3, Ryan J. Lowe 4 and Jeff E. Hansen 2 1 CSIRO Oceans and Atmosphere, Crawley 6009, Australia 2 Faculty of Science, School of Earth Sciences, The University of Western Australia, Crawley 6009, Australia; [email protected] (G.S.); jeff[email protected] (J.E.H.) 3 Departamento de Física, Universidad Nacional, Heredia 3000, Costa Rica; [email protected] 4 Faculty of Engineering and Mathematical Sciences, Oceans Graduate School, The University of Western Australia, Crawley 6009, Australia; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 18 September 2019; Accepted: 23 October 2019; Published: 28 October 2019 Abstract: An alongshore array of pressure sensors and a cross-shore array of current velocity and pressure sensors were deployed on a barred beach in southwestern Australia to estimate the relative response of edge waves and leaky waves to variable incident wind wave conditions. The strong sea 1 breeze cycle at the study site (wind speeds frequently > 10 m s− ) produced diurnal variations in the peak frequency of the incident waves, with wind sea conditions (periods 2 to 8 s) dominating during the peak of the sea breeze and swell (periods 8 to 20 s) dominating during times of low wind. We observed that edge wave modes and their frequency distribution varied with the frequency of the short-wave forcing (swell or wind-sea) and edge waves were more energetic than leaky waves for the duration of the 10-day experiment. -
Marine Biodiversity Survey of Mermaid Reef (Rowley Shoals), Scott and Seringapatam Reef Western Australia 2006 Edited by Clay Bryce
ISBN 978-1-920843-50-2 ISSN 0313 122X Scott and Seringapatam Reef. Western Australia Marine Biodiversity Survey of Mermaid Reef (Rowley Shoals), Marine Biodiversity Survey of Mermaid Reef (Rowley Shoals), Scott and Seringapatam Reef Western Australia 2006 2006 Edited by Clay Bryce Edited by Clay Bryce Suppl. No. Records of the Western Australian Museum 77 Supplement No. 77 Records of the Western Australian Museum Supplement No. 77 Marine Biodiversity Survey of Mermaid Reef (Rowley Shoals), Scott and Seringapatam Reef Western Australia 2006 Edited by Clay Bryce Records of the Western Australian Museum The Records of the Western Australian Museum publishes the results of research into all branches of natural sciences and social and cultural history, primarily based on the collections of the Western Australian Museum and on research carried out by its staff members. Collections and research at the Western Australian Museum are centred on Earth and Planetary Sciences, Zoology, Anthropology and History. In particular the following areas are covered: systematics, ecology, biogeography and evolution of living and fossil organisms; mineralogy; meteoritics; anthropology and archaeology; history; maritime archaeology; and conservation. Western Australian Museum Perth Cultural Centre, James Street, Perth, Western Australia, 6000 Mail: Locked Bag 49, Welshpool DC, Western Australia 6986 Telephone: (08) 9212 3700 Facsimile: (08) 9212 3882 Email: [email protected] Minister for Culture and The Arts The Hon. John Day BSc, BDSc, MLA Chair of Trustees Mr Tim Ungar BEc, MAICD, FAIM Acting Executive Director Ms Diana Jones MSc, BSc, Dip.Ed Editors Dr Mark Harvey BSC, PhD Dr Paul Doughty BSc(Hons), PhD Editorial Board Dr Alex Baynes MA, PhD Dr Alex Bevan BSc(Hons), PhD Ms Ann Delroy BA(Hons), MPhil Dr Bill Humphreys BSc(Hons), PhD Dr Moya Smith BA(Hons), Dip.Ed. -
5Th Grade Chaperone Guide
5th GRADE Things to do GALLERY Reef Level 1 Level Level 2 Level CHANGING EXHIBIT GALLERY Tropical Tunnel Tropical F I E L D T R I P Tropical CHANGING EXHIBIT Tropical Tunnel Tropical Main Entrance Live Coral Live Tropical Tunnel Tropical TROPICAL PACIFIC GALLERY PACIFIC TROPICAL Main Entrance TROPICAL PACIFIC GALLERY PACIFIC TROPICAL Tropical Preview Tropical CHAPERONE …at the Aquarium Chaperones: Use this guide to move your group through the Gift Store Gift Store • Touch a shark Aquarium’s galleries. The background information, Otters GUIDEguided questions, and activities will keep your • See a show students engaged and actively learning. Sea Honda Theater Sea Otter Honda Theater Sea Otter • Visit a Discovery Lab Northern Preview • Ask questions • Have fun! Channel Surge NORTHERN PACIFIC GALLERY PACIFIC NORTHERN NORTHERN PACIFIC GALLERY PACIFIC NORTHERN Blue Cavern Blue Cavern Cafe Scuba Blue Ray Pool Cavern Cafe Scuba Ray Pool SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA/BAJA GALLERY SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA/BAJA SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA/BAJA GALLERY SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA/BAJA Seals & Sea Lions Seals & Sea Lions Seals & Sea Lions …back at school Seals & Sea Lions The story of • Write or draw about your trip to the Aquarium • Consider a classroom animal adoption Oxygen • Visit aquariumofpacific.org/teachers Animals and plants need each other. Plants use carbon dioxide and energy from Shark Lagoon • Keep learning more the sun to build molecules of sugar and release Forest Lorikeet oxygen. Animals breathe in oxygen and let out Shark Lagoon carbon dioxide through respiration. -
Waves and Structures
WAVES AND STRUCTURES By Dr M C Deo Professor of Civil Engineering Indian Institute of Technology Bombay Powai, Mumbai 400 076 Contact: [email protected]; (+91) 22 2572 2377 (Please refer as follows, if you use any part of this book: Deo M C (2013): Waves and Structures, http://www.civil.iitb.ac.in/~mcdeo/waves.html) (Suggestions to improve/modify contents are welcome) 1 Content Chapter 1: Introduction 4 Chapter 2: Wave Theories 18 Chapter 3: Random Waves 47 Chapter 4: Wave Propagation 80 Chapter 5: Numerical Modeling of Waves 110 Chapter 6: Design Water Depth 115 Chapter 7: Wave Forces on Shore-Based Structures 132 Chapter 8: Wave Force On Small Diameter Members 150 Chapter 9: Maximum Wave Force on the Entire Structure 173 Chapter 10: Wave Forces on Large Diameter Members 187 Chapter 11: Spectral and Statistical Analysis of Wave Forces 209 Chapter 12: Wave Run Up 221 Chapter 13: Pipeline Hydrodynamics 234 Chapter 14: Statics of Floating Bodies 241 Chapter 15: Vibrations 268 Chapter 16: Motions of Freely Floating Bodies 283 Chapter 17: Motion Response of Compliant Structures 315 2 Notations 338 References 342 3 CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1 Introduction The knowledge of magnitude and behavior of ocean waves at site is an essential prerequisite for almost all activities in the ocean including planning, design, construction and operation related to harbor, coastal and structures. The waves of major concern to a harbor engineer are generated by the action of wind. The wind creates a disturbance in the sea which is restored to its calm equilibrium position by the action of gravity and hence resulting waves are called wind generated gravity waves.