Dynamics of Irregular Wave Ensembles in the Coastal Zone Ekaterina Shurgalina
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Diagnosing Ocean-Wave-Turbulence Interactions from Space
See discussions, stats, and author profiles for this publication at: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/334776036 Diagnosing ocean‐wave‐turbulence interactions from space Article in Geophysical Research Letters · July 2019 DOI: 10.1029/2019GL083675 CITATIONS READS 0 341 9 authors, including: Hector Torres Lia Siegelman Jet Propulsion Laboratory/California Institute of Technology Université de Bretagne Occidentale 10 PUBLICATIONS 73 CITATIONS 9 PUBLICATIONS 15 CITATIONS SEE PROFILE SEE PROFILE Bo Qiu University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa 136 PUBLICATIONS 6,358 CITATIONS SEE PROFILE Some of the authors of this publication are also working on these related projects: SWOT SSH calibration and validation View project Estimating the Circulation and Climate of the Ocean View project All content following this page was uploaded by Lia Siegelman on 12 August 2019. The user has requested enhancement of the downloaded file. RESEARCH LETTER Diagnosing Ocean‐Wave‐Turbulence Interactions 10.1029/2019GL083675 From Space Key Points: H. S. Torres1 , P. Klein1,2 , L. Siegelman1,3 , B. Qiu4 , S. Chen4 , C. Ubelmann5, • We exploit spectral characteristics of 1 1 1 sea surface height (SSH) to partition J. Wang , D. Menemenlis , and L.‐L. Fu ocean motions into balanced 1 2 motions and internal gravity waves Jet Propulsion Laboratory, California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, CA, USA, LOPS/IFREMER, Plouzane, France, • We use a simple shallow‐water 3LEMAR, Plouzane, France, 4Department of Oceanography, University of Hawaii at Manoa, Honolulu, HI, USA, 5Collecte model to diagnose internal gravity Localisation Satellites, Ramonville St‐Agne, France wave motions from SSH • We test a dynamical framework to recover the interactions between internal gravity waves and balanced Abstract Numerical studies indicate that interactions between ocean internal gravity waves (especially motions from SSH those <100 km) and geostrophic (or balanced) motions associated with mesoscale eddy turbulence (involving eddies of 100–300 km) impact the ocean's kinetic energy budget and therefore its circulation. -
Two-Soliton Interaction As an Elementary Act of Soliton Turbulence in Integrable Systems
Two-soliton interaction as an elementary act of soliton turbulence in integrable systems E.N. Pelinovsky1,2, E.G. Shurgalina2, A.V. Sergeeva1, T.G. Talipova1, 3 3 G.A. El ∗ and R.H.J. Grimshaw 1 Department of Nonlinear Geophysical Processes, Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia 2 Department of Applied Mathematics, Nizhny Novgorod Technical University, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia 3 Department of Mathematical Sciences, Loughborough University, UK ∗Corresponding author. Tel: +44 1509 222869; Fax: +44 1509 223969; e-mail: [email protected] 1 Abstract Two-soliton interactions play a definitive role in the formation of the structure of soliton turbulence in integrable systems. To quantify the contribution of these interactions to the dynamical and statistical characteristics of the nonlinear wave field of soliton turbulence we study properties of the spatial moments of the two-soliton solution of the Korteweg – de Vries (KdV) equation. While the first two moments are integrals of the KdV evolution, the third and fourth moments undergo significant variations in the dominant interaction region, which could have strong effect on the values of the skewness and kurtosis in soliton turbulence. Keywords: KdV equation, soliton, turbulence 1 Introduction Solitons represent an intrinsic part of nonlinear wave field in weakly dispersive media and their deterministic dynamics in the framework of the Korteweg– de Vries (KdV) equation is understood very well (see e.g.[1, 2, 3]). At the same time, description of statistical properties of a random ensemble of solitons (or a more general problem of the KdV evolution of a random wave field) still remains to a large extent an unsolved problem, especially in the context of concrete physical applications. -
Tllllllll:. Journal of Coastal Research, 17(4),919-930
Journal of Coastal Research 919-930 West Palm Beach, Florida Fall 2001 Obliquely Incident Wave Reflection and Runup on Steep Rough Slope Nobuhisa Kobayashi and Entin A. Karjadi Center for Applied Coastal Research University of Delaware Newark, DE 19716 ABSTRACT _ KOBAYASHI, N. and KARJADI, E.A., 2001. Obliquely incident wave reflection and runup on steep rough slope. .tllllllll:. Journal of Coastal Research, 17(4),919-930. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. ~ A two-dimensional, time-dependent numerical model for finite amplitude, shallow-water waves with arbitrary incident eusss~~ angles is developed to predict the detailed wave motions in the vicinity of the still waterline on a slope. The numerical --+4 method and the seaward and landward boundary algorithms are fairly general but the lateral boundary algorithm is b--- limited to periodic boundary conditions. The computed results for surging waves on a rough 1:2.5 slope are presented for the incident wave angles in the range 0-80°. The time-averaged continuity, momentum and energy equations are used to check the accuracy of the numerical model as well as to examine the cross-shore variations of wave setup, return current, longshore current, momentum fluxes, energy fluxes and dissipation rates. The computed reflected waves and waterline oscillations are shown to have the same alongshore wavelength as the specified nonlinear inci dent waves. The computed variations of the reflected wave phase shift and wave runup are shown to be consistent with available empirical formulas. More quantitative comparisons will be required to evaluate the model accuracy. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Oblique waves, reflection, runup, revetments, breakwaters, wave setup, return current, longshore current. -
Part II-1 Water Wave Mechanics
Chapter 1 EM 1110-2-1100 WATER WAVE MECHANICS (Part II) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents Page II-1-1. Introduction ............................................................II-1-1 II-1-2. Regular Waves .........................................................II-1-3 a. Introduction ...........................................................II-1-3 b. Definition of wave parameters .............................................II-1-4 c. Linear wave theory ......................................................II-1-5 (1) Introduction .......................................................II-1-5 (2) Wave celerity, length, and period.......................................II-1-6 (3) The sinusoidal wave profile...........................................II-1-9 (4) Some useful functions ...............................................II-1-9 (5) Local fluid velocities and accelerations .................................II-1-12 (6) Water particle displacements .........................................II-1-13 (7) Subsurface pressure ................................................II-1-21 (8) Group velocity ....................................................II-1-22 (9) Wave energy and power.............................................II-1-26 (10)Summary of linear wave theory.......................................II-1-29 d. Nonlinear wave theories .................................................II-1-30 (1) Introduction ......................................................II-1-30 (2) Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory ...................................II-1-32 -
Dynamics of Wave Setup Over a Steeply Sloping Fringing Reef
DECEMBER 2015 B U C K L E Y E T A L . 3005 Dynamics of Wave Setup over a Steeply Sloping Fringing Reef MARK L. BUCKLEY AND RYAN J. LOWE School of Earth and Environment, and The Oceans Institute, and ARC Centre of Excellence for Coral Reef Studies, University of Western Australia, Crawley, Western Australia, Australia JEFF E. HANSEN School of Earth and Environment, and The Oceans Institute, University of Western Australia, Crawley, Western Australia, Australia AP R. VAN DONGEREN Unit ZKS, Department AMO, Deltares, Delft, Netherlands (Manuscript received 6 April 2015, in final form 8 September 2015) ABSTRACT High-resolution observations from a 55-m-long wave flume were used to investigate the dynamics of wave setup over a steeply sloping reef profile with a bathymetry representative of many fringing coral reefs. The 16 runs incorporating a wide range of offshore wave conditions and still water levels were conducted using a 1:36 scaled fringing reef, with a 1:5 slope reef leading to a wide and shallow reef flat. Wave setdown and setup observations measured at 17 locations across the fringing reef were compared with a theoretical balance between the local cross-shore pressure and wave radiation stress gradients. This study found that when ra- diation stress gradients were calculated from observations of the radiation stress derived from linear wave theory, both wave setdown and setup were underpredicted for the majority of wave and water level conditions tested. These underpredictions were most pronounced for cases with larger wave heights and lower still water levels (i.e., cases with the greatest setdown and setup). -
Wave Turbulence
Transworld Research Network 37/661 (2), Fort P.O., Trivandrum-695 023, Kerala, India Recent Res. Devel. Fluid Dynamics, 5(2004): ISBN: 81-7895-146-0 Wave Turbulence 1 2 1 Yeontaek Choi , Yuri V. Lvov and Sergey Nazarenko 1Mathematics Institute, The University of Warwick, Coventry, CV4-7AL, UK 2Department of Mathematical Sciences, Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY 12180 Abstract In this paper we review recent developments in the statistical theory of weakly nonlinear dispersive waves, the subject known as Wave Turbulence (WT). We revise WT theory using a generalisation of the random phase approximation (RPA). This generalisation takes into account that not only the phases but also the amplitudes of the wave Fourier modes are random quantities and it is called the “Random Phase and Amplitude” approach. This approach allows to systematically derive the kinetic equation for the energy spectrum from the the Peierls- Brout-Prigogine (PBP) equation for the multi-mode probability density function (PDF). The PBP equation was originally derived for the three-wave systems and in the present paper we derive a similar equation for the four-wave case. Equation for the multi-mode PDF will be used to validate the statistical assumptions Correspondence/Reprint request: Dr. Sergey Nazarenko, Mathematics Institute, The University of Warwick, Coventry, CV4-7AL, UK E-mail: [email protected] 2 Yeontaek Choi et al. about the phase and the amplitude randomness used for WT closures. Further, the multi- mode PDF contains a detailed statistical information, beyond spectra, and it finally allows to study non-Gaussianity and intermittency in WT, as it will be described in the present paper. -
Drift Wave Turbulence W
Drift Wave Turbulence W. Horton, J.‐H. Kim, E. Asp, T. Hoang, T.‐H. Watanabe, and H. Sugama Citation: AIP Conference Proceedings 1013, 1 (2008); doi: 10.1063/1.2939032 View online: http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.2939032 View Table of Contents: http://scitation.aip.org/content/aip/proceeding/aipcp/1013?ver=pdfcov Published by the AIP Publishing Articles you may be interested in Collisionless inter-species energy transfer and turbulent heating in drift wave turbulence Phys. Plasmas 19, 082309 (2012); 10.1063/1.4746033 On relaxation and transport in gyrokinetic drift wave turbulence with zonal flow Phys. Plasmas 18, 122305 (2011); 10.1063/1.3662428 Drift wave versus interchange turbulence in tokamak geometry: Linear versus nonlinear mode structure Phys. Plasmas 12, 062314 (2005); 10.1063/1.1917866 Modelling the Formation of Large Scale Zonal Flows in Drift Wave Turbulence in a Rotating Fluid Experiment AIP Conf. Proc. 669, 662 (2003); 10.1063/1.1594017 Dynamics of zonal flow saturation in strong collisionless drift wave turbulence Phys. Plasmas 9, 4530 (2002); 10.1063/1.1514641 This article is copyrighted as indicated in the article. Reuse of AIP content is subject to the terms at: http://scitation.aip.org/termsconditions. Downloaded to IP: Drift Wave Turbulence W. Horton∗, J.-H. Kim∗, E. Asp†, T. Hoang∗∗, T.-H. Watanabe‡ and H. Sugama‡ ∗Institute for Fusion Studies, the University of Texas at Austin, USA †Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne, Centre de Recherches en Physique des Plasmas Association Euratom-Confédération Suisse, CH-1015 Lausanne, Switzerland ∗∗Assoc. Euratom-CEA, CEA/DSM/DRFC Cadarache, 13108 St Paul-Lez-Durance, France ‡National Institute for Fusion Science/Graduate University for Advanced Studies, Japan Abstract. -
Waves and Structures
WAVES AND STRUCTURES By Dr M C Deo Professor of Civil Engineering Indian Institute of Technology Bombay Powai, Mumbai 400 076 Contact: [email protected]; (+91) 22 2572 2377 (Please refer as follows, if you use any part of this book: Deo M C (2013): Waves and Structures, http://www.civil.iitb.ac.in/~mcdeo/waves.html) (Suggestions to improve/modify contents are welcome) 1 Content Chapter 1: Introduction 4 Chapter 2: Wave Theories 18 Chapter 3: Random Waves 47 Chapter 4: Wave Propagation 80 Chapter 5: Numerical Modeling of Waves 110 Chapter 6: Design Water Depth 115 Chapter 7: Wave Forces on Shore-Based Structures 132 Chapter 8: Wave Force On Small Diameter Members 150 Chapter 9: Maximum Wave Force on the Entire Structure 173 Chapter 10: Wave Forces on Large Diameter Members 187 Chapter 11: Spectral and Statistical Analysis of Wave Forces 209 Chapter 12: Wave Run Up 221 Chapter 13: Pipeline Hydrodynamics 234 Chapter 14: Statics of Floating Bodies 241 Chapter 15: Vibrations 268 Chapter 16: Motions of Freely Floating Bodies 283 Chapter 17: Motion Response of Compliant Structures 315 2 Notations 338 References 342 3 CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1 Introduction The knowledge of magnitude and behavior of ocean waves at site is an essential prerequisite for almost all activities in the ocean including planning, design, construction and operation related to harbor, coastal and structures. The waves of major concern to a harbor engineer are generated by the action of wind. The wind creates a disturbance in the sea which is restored to its calm equilibrium position by the action of gravity and hence resulting waves are called wind generated gravity waves. -
Wave Turbulence and Intermittency Alan C
Physica D 152–153 (2001) 520–550 Wave turbulence and intermittency Alan C. Newell∗,1, Sergey Nazarenko, Laura Biven Department of Mathematics, University of Warwick, Coventry CV4 71L, UK Abstract In the early 1960s, it was established that the stochastic initial value problem for weakly coupled wave systems has a natural asymptotic closure induced by the dispersive properties of the waves and the large separation of linear and nonlinear time scales. One is thereby led to kinetic equations for the redistribution of spectral densities via three- and four-wave resonances together with a nonlinear renormalization of the frequency. The kinetic equations have equilibrium solutions which are much richer than the familiar thermodynamic, Fermi–Dirac or Bose–Einstein spectra and admit in addition finite flux (Kolmogorov–Zakharov) solutions which describe the transfer of conserved densities (e.g. energy) between sources and sinks. There is much one can learn from the kinetic equations about the behavior of particular systems of interest including insights in connection with the phenomenon of intermittency. What we would like to convince you is that what we call weak or wave turbulence is every bit as rich as the macho turbulence of 3D hydrodynamics at high Reynolds numbers and, moreover, is analytically more tractable. It is an excellent paradigm for the study of many-body Hamiltonian systems which are driven far from equilibrium by the presence of external forcing and damping. In almost all cases, it contains within its solutions behavior which invalidates the premises on which the theory is based in some spectral range. We give some new results concerning the dynamic breakdown of the weak turbulence description and discuss the fully nonlinear and intermittent behavior which follows. -
The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes
1 Surveys in Geophysics Archimer November 2011, Volume 40, Issue 6, Pages 1563-1601 https://doi.org/10.1007/s10712-019-09557-5 https://archimer.ifremer.fr https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00509/62046/ The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes Dodet Guillaume 1, *, Melet Angélique 2, Ardhuin Fabrice 6, Bertin Xavier 3, Idier Déborah 4, Almar Rafael 5 1 UMR 6253 LOPSCNRS-Ifremer-IRD-Univiversity of Brest BrestPlouzané, France 2 Mercator OceanRamonville Saint Agne, France 3 UMR 7266 LIENSs, CNRS - La Rochelle UniversityLa Rochelle, France 4 BRGMOrléans Cédex, France 5 UMR 5566 LEGOSToulouse Cédex 9, France *Corresponding author : Guillaume Dodet, email address : [email protected] Abstract : Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind-generated waves cause fluctuations of the sea level at the coast over timescales from a few seconds (individual wave runup) to a few hours (wave-induced setup). These wave-induced processes are of major importance for coastal management as they add up to tides and atmospheric surges during storm events and enhance coastal flooding and erosion. Changes in the atmospheric circulation associated with natural climate cycles or caused by increasing greenhouse gas emissions affect the wave conditions worldwide, which may drive significant changes in the wave-induced coastal hydrodynamics. Since sea-level rise represents a major challenge for sustainable coastal management, particularly in low-lying coastal areas and/or along densely urbanized coastlines, understanding the contribution of wind-generated waves to the long-term budget of coastal sea-level changes is therefore of major importance. -
Rip Currents and Alongshore Flows in Single Channels Dredged in the Surf
PUBLICATIONS Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans RESEARCH ARTICLE Rip currents and alongshore flows in single channels dredged 10.1002/2016JC012222 in the surf zone Key Points: Melissa Moulton1,2 , Steve Elgar2 , Britt Raubenheimer2 , John C. Warner3 , and Rip currents, feeder currents, and Nirnimesh Kumar4 meandering alongshore currents were observed in single channels 1 2 dredged in the surf zone Applied Physics Laboratory, University of Washington, Seattle, Washington, USA, Department of Applied Ocean Physics 3 The model COAWST reproduces the and Engineering, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, Massachusetts, USA, United States Geological observed circulation patterns, and is Survey, Coastal and Marine Geology Program, Woods Hole, Massachusetts, USA, 4Department of Civil and Environmental used to investigate dynamics for a Engineering, University of Washington, Seattle, Washington, USA wider range of conditions A parameter based on breaking-wave-driven setup patterns and alongshore currents predicts Abstract To investigate the dynamics of flows near nonuniform bathymetry, single channels (on average offshore-directed flow speeds 30 m wide and 1.5 m deep) were dredged across the surf zone at five different times, and the subsequent evolution of currents and morphology was observed for a range of wave and tidal conditions. In addition, Correspondence to: circulation was simulated with the numerical modeling system COAWST, initialized with the observed M. Moulton, incident waves and channel bathymetry, and with an extended set of wave conditions and channel [email protected] geometries. The simulated flows are consistent with alongshore flows and rip-current circulation patterns observed in the surf zone. Near the offshore-directed flows that develop in the channel, the dominant terms Citation: Moulton, M., S. -
TURBULENCE Weak Wave Turbulence
TURBULENCE terval of scales in a cascade-like process. The cascade Turbulence is a state of a nonlinear physical system that idea explains the basic macroscopic manifestation of has energy distribution over many degrees of freedom turbulence: the rate of dissipation of the dynamical in- strongly deviated from equilibrium. Turbulence is tegral of motion has a finite limit when the dissipation irregular both in time and in space. Turbulence can coefficient tends to zero. In other words, the mean rate be maintained by some external influence or it can of the viscous energy dissipation does not depend on decay on the way to relaxation to equilibrium. The viscosity at large Reynolds numbers. That means that term first appeared in fluid mechanics and was later symmetry of the inviscid equation (here, time-reversal generalized to include far-from-equilibrium states in invariance) is broken by the presence of the viscous solids and plasmas. term, even though the latter might have been expected If an obstacle of size L is placed in a fluid of viscosity to become negligible in the limit Re →∞. ν that is moving with velocity V , a turbulent wake The cascade idea fixes only the mean flux of the emerges for sufficiently large values of the Reynolds respective integral of motion, requiring it to be constant number across the inertial interval of scales. To describe an Re ≡ V L/ν. entire turbulence statistics, one has to solve problems on a case-by-case basis with most cases still unsolved. At large Re, flow perturbations produced at scale L experience, a viscous dissipation that is small Weak Wave Turbulence compared with nonlinear effects.