H FY C N SCOTCH O E whiskiesL I N L V L E Y R G A R R AY A REVIEW

EDITION 4 AUTUMN 1995

TRUMPET FOR TWO “An excellent mail order business” is the accolade awarded us in a recent Decanter magazine article. This sort of comment is something that has to be earned and we are proud to have done so. Because of our hands-on approach it is easier for us to look after you, the customer, on a personal basis. As a private partnership we are depend- ent on the shop in Inveraray and our mail order business and so we are very careful about our quality of service and the suggestions and recommendations we make. This edition of the SWR is twelve pages, the additional four pages being occupied by our ‘glossy’ catalogue, full of desir- able products for you to buy and enjoy. All of the items featured come with our recommendation and should you wish to return anything to us because you are disappointed, no problems. TAX CAMPAIGN RESULTS AWAITED We also give news of the appointment of Visitors to our shop, distilleries and the recent round of Party conferences have our house malt, The Inverarity. We had the opportunity to sign this card appealing to the Government to reduce the weren’t looking for a house malt but punitive tax on . How effective the campaign has been will be known found this so worthy of frequent recom- at the end of November when the Chancellor gets up on his back legs for the Budget. mendation that we made it ours. The (I thought we weren’t going to mention tax in this issue—Ed.) Loch Fyne House Malt is an ‘award’ that we can give only once. We ONE DOWN...... AND ONE UP! are delighted with our choice and will be The Isle of Arran is producing legitimate commend it to you, whatever your taste. closed by the time you read this. The malt whisky for the first time since 1835. Ronnie Martin, founder of Inverarity distillery has been on the market for Distillery manager Gordon Mitchell Vaults with his son Hamish, also has an three years but the owners Morrison made the first cut of new spirit at excellent blend but we have refrained Bowmore Distillers have been unable to 2.29pm on June 29th. Whisky writer Jim from appointing a house blend at this find a purchaser. Murray sampled the first results of a six time as we have asked “The Professor” The surrounding land and associated year campaign to finance and build the to create a blend reflecting the warmth distillery workers’ housing is to be sold brand new distillery by Harold Currie, and character of Argyll. Order at least for further housing development whilst former managing director of Chivas one bottle from us before Christmas and the ultimate future of the distillery is Brothers. you will get a miniature of that proposed discussed with Grampian Council. “Stunning and bursting with charisma” blend for your comments. The results Bowmore and Auchentoshan distilleries is how Jim described the new spirit and of this exciting mass tasting and the are secure. this was confirmed by Gordon Mitchell’s launch of our new whisky will be “We are very sorry to have had to take comment “I just couldn’t believe how announced next year. this decision but we are not isolated from well it’s turned out, it’s so full of Please order for christmas as soon as the market conditions which are affect- character.” possible. We try to be very quick in ing the industry. This distillery has been Part of the funding for the distillery was turning orders around but inevitably we working at below 50% of capacity for by the Arran Bond, an innovative may get a bit slower in the next month. some time.” said Brian Morrison, who scheme of futures sales of ten cases to Despite that, it will still be an excellent added: “This has nothing to do with our subscribers. Now single case bonds are mail order business. Happy Christmas. new Japanese owners.” available. More on page 11.

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 1 a room to the side housing a sink with a couldn’t stop otherwise the filter bed THE INDEPENDENT black marble surround with a fitment would lift and you would have to run the for upside down tasting glasses over whole lot through again. Done correctly the sink. you could get the whisky really LFW: Were there many whisky sparkling! brokers in Elgin? LFW: Was everything bottled? No, most in Elgin were involved in No, we sold a lot of whisky in bulk in distilling. With the exception of James stoneware jars of up to six gallons. Gordon, most brokers were based either These were made for us by Buchan’s in in Glasgow or Edinburgh. Portobello and the Blind Asylum in My father, who started working for made and maintained the Gordon & MacPhail from the earliest wickerwork that protected them. The days, worked mainly in the broking and jars had a cork, then a red wax seal and wholesale side and when James Gordon then our seal so it would show if it was died in 1915 he carried on the broking tampered with. The publican filled his side of the business on his own. I then glass counter jar, which often had the looked after it for my father. Like James name of the whisky gold-leafed onto it, Gordon, father also had share holdings from the stoneware jar. in several local distilleries including Customs controls were strict. Whenever Longmorn, Strathisla and Glen Grant. whisky left the warehouse it always had LFW: And presumably Mortlach. to be accompanied by a Customs permit. No, the close association with Mortlach If a Customs Officer stopped a wagon George Urquhart has worked for Distillery arose because my father was carrying spirits without a permit he the business of Gordon & MacPhail a close personal friend of the owner, Dr would assume it was smuggled. for 62 years and continues as Cowie. Many distillers used to seek LFW: Did you bottle for the distillers executive Chairman of what is now, father’s advice, particularly on market- or only for yourselves? indisputably, the world’s leading ing matters and occasionally, if stuck for Ourselves. Distillers were just making malt whisky specialist. a filling order, Dr Cowie would approach malt whisky—they had no interest in The company, which is also managed by my father. marketing and bottling themselves. his three sons and one daughter, This was in the time when a private Printers in Aberdeen would print bottle celebrates its centenary this year, and individual could go to a distillery and labels in bulk and then a local printer Loch Fyne Whiskies caught a glimpse have a ten gallon cask filled. I can re- would overprint our name. We would be of the industry over the years through member the local golf club used to fill issued with so many labels from the Mr Urquhart’s eyes. casks with Glen Grant and water it distiller when we were paying duty for LFW: Have you ever worked any down themselves, but they couldn’t fil- the casks at the distillery. where else? ter it and it was a murky looking whisky! I started full time at the age of 14; my Once it was in the glass it didn’t look so father thought that I would learn more bad and was enjoyed nonetheless. “the distillers working here than staying on at school. LFW: So you started on the bottling Even before that, I used to dodge down line; any recollections? from school to help with the whisky At that time we used to have lovely had no interest bottling. spring water in Elgin. It came from LFW: How many worked for Gordon Kellas and the Black Hills . Lovely in marketing” & MacPhail at that time? water, untreated and pure. These days About 35, we were significant local we have to purify the water before use employers. We were large importers of but back then we could use it straight LFW: Was this issue of labels to protect foodstuffs as well as the whisky and for reducing the whisky to normal the integrity of their whisky? grocery business. strength without any further treatment. That wasn’t necessary; people in those LFW: How important was whisky to I particularly recall we had a water- days trusted each other. Business the business of G&M? powered lift to move casks throughout dealings were based on gentlemen’s It was always very important. James the four-storey building which was agreements. Any unscrupulous person Gordon was deeply involved with the driven by the available mains water coming on the scene was identified fairly local distillers and he concentrated on pressure, no pumps at all. It was quickly. the whisky broking as well as wines and amazing, this rickety old thing, but it LFW: For how long was a malt other spirits rather than the grocery worked! They had them in Glasgow matured in those days? which was dealt with by John MacPhail. stores and I was amazed with the speed Distillers thought that if it was over Elgin was an important centre for the of those lifts, they were so fast! We still eight years old then it was too old. In whisky industry. Many of the distillery had to move 1/2 ton casks down some 1945 we started bottling Glen Grant at owners lived in some of the most pres- stone steps to the cellar—that was hard eight years old. It was my job to write tigious houses and a few descendants of work—and dangerous! Wearing a jute the age on each label, by hand with an those owners are in the town today. sack as an apron to protect our clothes, ordinary pen in red ink. There is even a church in Elgin called we stood in front of the barrel and LFW: Now it’s difficult to find a Glen the ‘whisky Kirk’ because quite a carefully slid it down a pair of skids. Grant over five years old! number of the congregation were Beer casks we could bounce onto a mat Glen Grant has got quite a good bouquet involved in the distilling. but not whisky! and it matures quite quickly; it was Many local distillers rented office space Filtration was done by gravity using a actually a nice whisky at five years old. from us and when we repainted some big round filter on which you had to Before 1939 we sold quite a bit of ‘clear’ years ago, under all the layers of paint, make a porridge-like filter bed, mixing Glen Grant, especially in Inverness we found the names of the distilleries the filter pulp with the whisky and where it was popular amongst the stencilled on the doors. All the offices letting it settle before turning on the flow carters who worked with big Clydesdale had two rooms—a manager’s office and of whisky. Once you had started you horses from the railway station. ‘Clear

PAGE 2 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD Glen Grant’ was their dram! Gonzalez, Williams & Humbert and them and can hold 120 gallons! After the war I remember we took a few especially Harvey’s; all were excellent— Nowadays we have casks made and sea- butts from the distillery with no colour we’ve still got a lot of them in the bond soned for us in Spain. We’re able to in them at all, the whisky was very pale. even now. I also went to Spain quite a specify stave length, thickness of wood, I looked at these casks and decided to number of times and bought a lot of everything. re-introduce clear Glen Grant whisky at casks myself. We are prepared to pay a LFW: For how long are they seasoned? 8 years old and that certainly took off! premium for good quality casks because About three or four years. It’s quite ex- When our competitors followed our lead it is well worth it for the whisky. pensive; we’re paying for casks in June but sold at five years old and cut the With the whisky boom in the 1960’s, we this year so that they can be made and price, eventually we were forced into went onto using bourbon casks as well, filled with sherry. The ones we’ve just doing the same because people were importing them either as full barrels or got in from 1991 are excellent. asking for five year old Glen Grant. in ‘shook form’, that is that they had the LFW: How do you avoid conflict For the distiller to get the money in five staves numbered, the head removed, with distillery owners of the years rather than eight or ten was a knocked down and strapped so they took whiskies that you market? great advantage. up less shipping space. Then you had We’ve been in the bottled malt whisky In the 1950’s we were the biggest to sort out the numbers and remake business longer than most of the distill- bottlers of Macallan and I think it would them, like a jigsaw. ers, with perhaps a couple of exceptions. be fair to say we helped that distillery If we were having new casks made we Our relationships with a number of the to establish its malt market. They had bought new white Orleans oak which is distillers go back many years and we their own labels, but they were late on just perfect for maturing whisky, very work hard to maintain these good the scene. The man controlling it was a close grained. We imported the wood relationships. It is appreciated that Dr Shiach who was a G.P. in England. and gave it to the cooper and he made there is room for all of us in the market A nice man, he often came into the hogsheads. We were never keen on the place, particularly as we are able to do office and spoke to my father. He was smaller barrels because they’re not an some of the things that large companies keen that we should keep the price down economic size. are unable to do. We are able to offer on a par with blend whisky like Johnnie much older vintages, for example. Way Walker. In those days blend might have back in the fifties and sixties, far less been ten shillings a bottle, Macallan “over eight the forties, no distiller had an interest malt maybe twelve and sixpence—there in keeping back whiskies. was not much of a price difference. As a LFW: How’s progress on the re- result it became quite popular locally. years was furbishment of ? In fact most of the malt whiskies that We are working slowly; its always been are popular today got into the market a long term project. We’ve got some because they almost ‘gave it away’ to too old” equipment in and the contractors are start with. working there now. Production will start LFW: Do you still buy mature LFW: You must be a leading expert probably next year. We’re putting in whisky? on casks. small stills with a view to producing a Whisky is produced by the distillery The suitability of oak for making strong typical, classic, Speyside whisky. We under contract to us and it is filled into casks varies from country to country. want a Speyside whisky because that is our own casks. We mature it, either in The best oak for whisky was memel oak where we came from originally. That is our own warehouses in Elgin or at the from Poland but that wood was all cut the Gordon & MacPhail style. distillery where it was produced. down during the First World War. You LFW: How do you view the whisky LFW: Was a cask expensive or could use those casks for 100 years, they industry of today? cheap? were so strong with great thick staves. We’re quite lucky that at the moment A cask that now costs £200 was then If they are too thin you get a whole lot of malt whisky seems to be well received. maybe the equivalent of £20. staves just cracking. There’s a lot of interest all around the We bottled quite a lot of sherry and port I remember I once bought a big batch of world. The demand for malt whisky has in those days and kept the suitable casks casks that came from Algiers that had never been greater and it’s good that for maturing our whisky. We also bought been used by the French people producing many companies bottle at varying ages in, particularly from a firm in Aberdeen wine in north Africa and those staves and strengths. I am concerned that who had good connections with the big were very strong! They didn’t crack, some of these companies are bottling sherry firms. We got lovely old casks of they were great thick staves, wonderful. whiskies at very young ages and often We used them to mature . these whiskies are not at their best. Mediterranean oak is not very straight It is sad to see so much control of the grained wood, and the staves are industry being exercised by companies inclined to crack. French oak is not too who have head offices outside . bad, you can get some quite good cognac This means fewer jobs in Scotland and casks but that’s not really used. I kept less of a Scottish influence on Scotch some malt whisky in good quality oak whisky. cognac casks as an experiment, with LFW: And the whisky business of excellent results. the future? You can produce good whisky out Bottled malt whisky represents less of Portuguese oak but most of than 10% of the total Scotch whisky the port that comes into the industry and I hope that sales will reach country is in chestnut and 10% by the year 2000. Sales of blended only occasionally oak. We whisky have been under pressure but it’s also matured some whisky pleasing that export sales at least are in oak Port Pipes with very improving. good results. They’re an un- But you will really have to talk to the wieldy cask! They’re long next generation about the future. with quite a curvature on LFW: Thank you, we will. Gordon & MacPhail, Elgin by Alastair Buchanan

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 3 WHISKY WORK the aromas. Try two samples, one whisky—its ‘construction’, general style and character—and to provide an Charlie MacLean straight and one dilute. Soft, still (not carbonated) water is ideal and all overall rating of quality. It’s worth considering, even marvelling Scottish bottled waters are suitable. These abstract terms are relative, they at the human nose and its capabilities. Avoid hard or chlorinated water. make a comparative comment or relate For whisky ‘tasting’ the nose is employed Aroma to a standard. If you want to be precise more than the tongue and palate. Swirl the whisky in the glass and sniff you must bear in mind that if you Our nose is probably our most accurate it cautiously. Remember, if the whisky describe a whisky as “mellow” you are and sensitive organ even though we is at it may be as much as implying a standard—mellow compared don’t use it to full capacity the whole 68% alcohol, and too powerful a sniff can with other lowland, or all whiskies? time. It is considerably more sensitive anaesthetise your sense of smell for a A useful list of definitions of the most than the tongue; for example, there are short time. common abstract terms has been only four primary tastes but there are Now add a little water. produced by Pentlands Scotch Whisky no less than thirty-two primary aromas. In tasting room conditions, professional Research: We can detect an odour diluted to one tasters reduce the spirit to 20% alcohol Bland—lacking in personality. part in a million and most people will —in other words, an equal measure of Body—the amount of appropriate score around 70% in simple odour water in standard bottlings. Start with product character, usually used in con- recognition tests. This high sensitivity a drop of water and add more by stages. junction with qualifiers such as full- is useful as the flavour elements in a Nosing should embrace both the bodied, lacking in body. bottle of whisky make up the merest ‘bouquet’—general impressions/salient Clean—free of off-notes from any source. fraction of its contents, all of 0.2%. The notes —and the aroma proper. So swirl Dry—an overall impact of astringency at rest is pure alcohol and water. the glass and sniff first some distance an acceptable level. has done from the top of the glass to collect the Green—a preponderance of aldehydic pioneering work in this area. Some years bouquet, then deep within to penetrate aromas; leafy. ago they sent samples of their 10yo malt the aroma. Note your first impressions, Heavy—possessing a high total intensity for sensory evaluation to a leading the first scents you can identify. of detectable aroma and flavour. Parisian perfumier, Christian St Roche. Rest from time to time: with continued Light—possessing an adequate intensity He identified no less than 26 aromas in sniffing the intensity of the aromas you of aroma and flavour, but tending to be the bouquet, from almond, bergamot and perceive will fade quickly so it is point- delicate in type. cinnamon to apple, quince and vanilla, less to nose a single sample for too long. Mellow—a condition associated with and such daily scents as ‘fruit-stone, am- Mouth feel and Primary Taste good maturation, whereby alcoholic bergris, genista and verbena.’ Take a large enough sip to fill your pungency is suppressed and the effect of Later they sent samples of both 10yo and mouth, then roll it over your tongue. hotness reduced to a pleasant warming. 18yo Glenmorangie to Belmay Inc. of First you want to register the ‘texture’ Neutral—lack of aromas, other than that Long Island—worldwide suppliers to the of the whisky. It may be smooth and of ethyl alcohol. perfume industry, whose staff include viscous, spirity and vaporous or astrin- Rich—implies a high intensity of char- some of the most sensitive noses in the gent and dry. acter; may also mean a preponderance of U.S.! They identified 22 aromas in the Primary tastes are registered by little sweet associated aromatics. 10yo and 17 in the 18. Of these only 6 sensory receptors on our tongues and Round—a good balance and intensity of were found in both vintages. They had palates. The time it takes to stimulate aroma and flavour notes. changed with longer maturation; for the different areas of the tongue varies, Robust—a high aroma intensity and example, ‘lemon/mandarin’ at 10 years with the bitter receptors taking the long- flavour, powerful character. became ‘orange’ at 18; ‘apple/mint/ est, so it is important when tasting to Sharp—imparting nose or mouth prickle. banana’ became ‘plum/raisin,’ and so on. hold the liquid in the mouth, coating the Soft—where the alcoholic pungency and Perhaps more surprising was that only tongue properly. other aromatics are suppressed. eight of Belmay’s descriptions Identify the primary tastes—the imme- Thin—lacking in the aroma and flavour corresponded exactly with those of La diate flavours your tongue collects. which it should have; watery. Roche. Mr. Edward Schwartz, Head There are only four: sweet, salty, sour Some other useful terms are those that Perfumer at Belmay, felt this apparent and dry/bitter. Most describe characteristics that arise discrepancy to be a perfectly natural whiskies will present a Bitter during production: difference between experts; he would mixture of these fla- Estery—the fruity, fragrant, pear Basic taste drops aromas. have been even more surprised if their vours, sometimes areas of the descriptions had been the same. So beautifully balanced, tongue Acid Phenolic—from wood smoke to never be afraid to put your own words sometimes less so. tar, iodine to seaweed. to the things you smell! Over the course of time, Salt Aldehydic—leafy, grassy scents, With a little practice you can soon learn you will notice that the sometimes like Parma violets. to break smells down and identify their flavour changes, some- Sweet Feinty—difficuly to describe, at constituent parts. Putting names to times quite dramatically if your glass worst redolent of sweat, vomit and them is more difficult. remains uncovered between sips. rotten fruit, but they are essential to, and So how do we go about this? Finish part of, all malts to some degree. Presentation Does the flavour linger in your mouth Feints are mellowed and transformed by Firstly, glassware and water are of vital like a northern sunset, or does it fade maturation in good wood and the wood importance. A whisky tumbler is hope- rapidly like a shooting star? Are there itself layers another range of aromas less for malts, it is designed for whisky any echoes of former tastes or aromas? over those occurring during production. and soda. Choose a clear, uncut glass Is there any aftertaste, pleasant or The most obvious scent is sherry from a that will gather the aromas. For seri- unpleasant? sherry cask. Bourbon casks bestow the ous nosing a cover over the glass will It is very difficult to be objective and lovely rounded, vanilla-like, nutty, cigar prevent flavour changes as the whisky absolute in our description of Scotch box aromas which make well-matured ‘breathes’ during the session. Whiskies. Our tendency is to use terms malt whisky such a fine thing. All whiskies benefit from the addition which are often subjective and relative. Charles MacLean is author of of a little water. This breaks up the Abstract terms are especially useful in The Mitchell Beazley chemical chains within it and releases describing the overall effect of the Pocket Whisky Book.

PAGE 4 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD TIME FOR NEW GLASSES? Presentation is all, so they say, but when it comes to whisky it’s not just the looks of the glass which influence your appreciation. A whole science comes into play as the shape of the glass affects your perceptions. The traditional whisky tumbler is well suited to a blended whisky but to get the most out of a malt a different tool is best for the job. Or rather three different glasses: CLASSIC, GRADUATED NOSING GLASS A big, wide, bulb bowl that allows enthusiastic swirling and a narrow aperture which focuses the vapours and essences to the nose. The glass is calibrated to ensure accurate dilution—with a glass this good, water is very desirable. This is the Blender’s first contact with the tongue (front, back whisky drinking, we consider the best nosing glass and is supplied with watch or sides)? It is quite astonishing the ef- compromise a PORT GLASS; a good glass cover to hold all the olfactory fect a glass can have on flavour and this bulb, a wide mouth with a slight flare, delights. is an invaluable part of any connois- good nosing and tasting combined—and REIDEL seur’s collection. at a terrific price. It’s what we use most GLASS Designed by the Austrian glass The nosing glass is great for nosing but of the time, comfortable and practical. makers noted for their range of ‘wine- not a comfortable means of drinking; the Our picture also features a small water and spirit-friendly stemware’. The aperture is narrow, pushing the rim into CARAFE, no handle to fumble for, no Reidel range is amazing—a different the nose when tipping to the mouth and spout to aim and no “oh blast, too much glass for almost every type of wine and/ it is necessary to tilt the head back un- water, I’ll have to put more whisky in!” or grape variety and now a single malt comfortably to wait for the uncontrolled A controlled flow into the glass ensured. whisky glass. Glasses are designed with rush of spirit. The Reidel glass is a Like the port glass, we use it all the time. consideration of the shape, density at the magnificent taster but holds no aroma Both the port glass and the carafe are rim, whether the rim is cut and polished at all. Its designer, Georg Reidel believes available plain or branded Springbank or rolled, how and where the spirit rolls “spirit drinkers are less concerned with (who introduced them to us). onto the tongue (as different parts of the bouquet than wine drinkers.” (Decanter CLASSIC NOSING GLASS £ 7.50(a) tongue are sensitive to the four tastes 02/93). How wrong can he be? REIDEL GLASS £ 11.00(a) acid, bitter, salt and sweet). Is the flow So much for the cerebral, considered PORT GLASS (Plain or Sp’bank) £ 3.50(a) narrow or broad? Where is the whisky’s study. For relaxed, convivial, malt CARAFE (Plain or Sp’bank) £ 3.50(a)

EXPLORING —an armchair voyage

Islay—a small island bursting with full- peaty. Caol Ila—oily, with a long, long MH BRUICHLADDICH 43% 15 £ 28.90 flavoured, smoky, peaty whiskies and yet finish. Bowmore—mid point of the MH BUNNAHABHAIN 40% 12 £ 21.90 with a surprising range of tastes to island, and the whiskies. Port Ellen— MH CAOL ILA 43% 15 £ 25.90 explore. Glass in hand, (see above) pure smoke and peat, slight lemony MH BOWMORE 43% 17 £ 28.00 settle down with our pick of the crop. sweetness. Lagavulin—dry, spicy and CC PORT ELLEN 40% ’79/16 £ 25.80 Bruichladdich—no peat in the malting peppery. Laphroaig—pungent with MH LAGAVULIN 43% 16 £ 25.50 but by age 15 the island is discernable, extra seaweed. Ardbeg—the most MH LAPHROAIG 43% 15 £ 31.90 delicate. Bunnahabhain—delicately “Islay” of the lot, a challenge! CC ARDBEG 40% ’63/31 £ 45.60 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 5 Hesitation ill-advised Blended Whiskies Winner of this year’s single malt over Five glorious blends that exemplify the 12yo category at the respected Interna- Blender’s art, a little unusual and only tional Wine & Spirit Competition is The found in the best of establishments. Glenlivet 18yo. Well deserving its acco- The Putachieside, with a very lade, it is rich and refreshing. Just 1,800 attractive old style of label and bottles are available in the UK—we’ve bottle, is a 25yo whisky for a got a handful, but not many. reasonable price. This Spey MH GLENLIVET 18 43% £34.90 Cast missed our photo-call be- cause someone had tried it the To celebrate their centenary G&M have night before and came in and bottled some of their best whiskies from bought the lot! their extensive stocks. Titled Centenary Reserve these are truly excellent bottlings. The Glenburgie and Caol Ila are already almost completely ex- hausted, others are getting scarce.

Scotch in a box... Best value this Christmas. One of the greatest Speyside whiskies, a full bottle MH SPEY CAST 12 40% £ 16.90 of Longmorn 15yo, 45% with four mini- MH DIMPLE 15 40% £ 26.80 atures: the excellent Strathisla, Glen MH PUTACHIESIDE 25 40% £ 47.00 Keith, Benriach and Longmorn. MH ANTIQUARY 12 40% £ 18.30 MH LONGMORN PACK £29.90 MH BALLANTINE’S Gold12 40% £ 20.80 For the awkward type... Three well-packaged, good value Fancy a bottle? presents, suitable for gardenhand or Four good-lookers worth being seen in favoured uncle. Two great single malts with. The Highland Park is particularly Cent. GLENBURGIE ‘48/47 40% £ 199 flank a well turned out Gordon wonderful. Cent. CAOL ILA ’66/29 40% £ 45.90 Highlanders blend. Cent. HIGHLAND PARK’70/25 40% £ 37.70 Cent. BALBLAIR ’73/22 40% £ 34.80 Cent. BENRINNES ’78/17 40% £ 29.10 Cent. GLENROTHES ’78/17 40% £ 29.10 Cent. ST. MAGDALENE ’80/15 40% £ 26.60 Cent. MORTLACH ’84/11 40% £23.70

Cask Strength / High Proof These four high strength whiskies have been doing very well in tastings through- MH CARDHU 12 40% £23.40 out the last season. Lowland Bladnoch, MH GLEN ROTHES ’79/15 43% £33.40 lemon zest and zippppp. Speyside MH HIGHLAND PARK’67/24 43% £66.90 MH GLEN ORD—20cl 12 40% £6.20 Mortlach, great value and a great MH DALMORE 12 40% £21.50 MH GORDON HIGHLANDERS £ 13.90 whisky, classic speyside elegance or fruit MH GLEN MORAY(gift tin) 15 40% £22.20 gums, choose your description! The new The Sweeties Springbank 12 year old, 100°—the Three liqueurs in descending order of Norton 500 of malts, very exciting, rich The Best Whiskies sweetness: Scottish Island, strong, full and no need to dilute! Port Ellen, the in the World? flavoured, gingery and warming, very best from Islay, (according to the locals). Couldn’t resist the Innovations style sweet. Athol Brose, honey and herbs. headline. Quality products, a blend and Glenturret Malt Liqueur, the least two malts, all excellent. sweet, excellent after dinner or with shortbread and coffee, and a good rem- edy for tickly coughs—it’s true!

A* BLADNOCH ’84/11 59% £ 37.30 S* MORTLACH ’83/11 60% £ 29.90 MH J.WALKER BLUE 40%£ 112.00 MH SCOTTISH ISLAND 40% £15.90 MH SPRINGBANK 12 57% £ 29.30 MH MACALLAN 25 43% £ 79.90 MH ATHOL BROSE 35% £17.90 Cask*PORT ELLEN ’80/15 65% £ 42.30 MH SPRINGBANK 25 46% £ 65.00 MH GLENTURRET Liqueur 35% £ 19.10

PAGE 6 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD And for someone who Engraved lead crystal is also popular. The square decanter and square-sided already has everything... tot glasses(below) feature a celtic design (or at least all the ‘Classic Six’ Malts) engraved onto one face. Decanter 15cm what could be better than their very own high, glass 6cm high. bar stand! Given the number of times The miniature & tot glass boxed set we’re asked for this in the shop, this is makes a popular gift. Choose either a going to be one of the most appreciated glass engraved “A Wee Dram” or with items this Christmas. We’ve managed to our Loch Fyne Whiskies logo; a min of source it but stocks are limited. Dark Springbank 21yo completes the treat. green wood base, brass rail. CLASSIC SIX BAR STAND £ 40(c) or save £10 if bought with all six malts BAR STAND WITH ALL C6 £ 177.40 Steady as she goes Difficult to do it justice here but guar- anteed to draw admiring comments, this ship’s decanter from Royal Scot Crystal is from their Flower of Scotland range, which as well as deep crisscross cuts and traditional “star” in the base, features Engraved mini decanter set £ 29.00(c) distinctive opaque-cut thistle motifs. Min. & tot set; dram or logo £ 10.00(b) Holds more than a bottle (see above!) stands 26cm high and comes in silk- A flask to suit every pocket lined presentation box. Never be far from your favourite dram! Measure up Ship’s decanter £ 99.00(c) With flasks in a wide range of shapes Also available in the Flower of Scotland and sizes surely there must be one to For those who prefer to know how much suit every occasion and every pocket. is in the glass we offer a range of meas- pattern (see above and below): ures to suit most occasions (and guests!) 2 Tumblers — boxed set £ 25.50(c) Pewter mini-tankards come in 3 sizes: 2 Large tumblers — boxed set £ 29.90(c) 1oz(for relatives), 2oz(for friends) & Water jug (9cm high) £ 18.50(b) 3oz(for yourself!), with optional thistle Mini decanters motif. The hand-made copper jug (left) holds 1/4 gill, and next time Auntie asks for “just a thimbleful” you’ll be able to oblige with this pewter 2oz version. 1oz Tankard (with thistle) £ 5.45 (£ 5.95)(a) 2oz Tankard (with thistle) £ 5.75 (£ 6.25)(a) The Hip Flask 3oz Tankard (with thistle) £ 6.45 (£ 6.95)(a) 4oz pewter Golfer flask £ 17.00(b) “Just a thimbleful” £ 6.95(a) 4oz pewter Fisherman flask £ 17.00(b) 1/4 Gill copper tankard £ 11.90(a) 6oz pewter plain flask £ 14.00(b) s/steel & bridle calf leather: 5oz slimline flask (not shown) £ 22.00(b) From the same stable, but through the 6oz flask, captive top £ 24.00(b) lower door, comes a range of irresistible 8oz flask, captive top £ 28.00(a) mini decanters, presentation boxed with The Desk Flask two matching tot glasses. Ideal for the Pewter Pot Still flask, 15cm high £ 29.00(b) crystal collector or indeed anyone who Pewter Pot Still flask, 25cm high £ 37.00(c) enjoys a wee dram! We offer four Not Really a Flask patterns (see above and below). The Quaich Decanters are 12cm high, tots 6cm high. 4 s/steel cups, calf leather case £ 25.00(a) Plastic funnel £ 0.95(a) Tradition has it that at gatherings of Tippling stick £ 49.00(c) welcome and farewell whisky should be A deluxe walking stick, knob top, hand- passed around and shared from the turned maple, generous glass tube flask, quaich, “Scotland’s cup of friendship”. 2 “cups” (not shown—but very nice). The name derives from the gaelic The Ultimate Flask “cuach”—a shallow cup, and our quaichs Kintyre feature celtic patterns reflecting their Tot Square Spirit Ship’s Dalvey flask £ 49.90(b) origins. A fitting gift for many occasions, The elegant ‘Dalvey’ flask with integral we supply in satin-lined boxes. telescopic cup in gleaming s/steel. 7.5cm (diameter) pewter quaich £ 17.50(b) 13cm silver-plated quaich £ 45.00(c)

Flower of Scotland Georgian

Mini decanter + 2 tot glasses boxed set: Kintyre — square spirit £ 38.50(c) Kintyre — ship’s £ 42.50(c) Flower of Scotland (thistle) £ 49.50(c) Georgian £ 38.50(c)

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 7 I asked for whisky... Custom Labels Tummy Dept. Our custom labelled bottles are very well received and the best advice we have is don’t use an excessively expensive whisky—they often don’t get opened but sit pride of place on the mantlepiece. A ‘basic’ label carries your message of about 25 words and our logo and costs an extra £2.50 over the price of the bottle you select. A more complex label can be created using material supplied by you or by us A selection of goodies from the food after discussion with you—either a hall—spot the favourite theme. Haggis photograph, a character drawing or your meat (in a tin) soaked in Teachers or company logo. This is charged by time Glenturret whisky. Rich but as an example the “Fiddler’s Fuel” Fruit Cake from Walkers of Aberlour, illustrated cost £ 7.50. ...she gave me a CD 950g. Double Chocolate, Blueberry and Perhaps the simplest and most popular So many people ask after the music we Pecan Cake with Glayva liqueur 450g— option is our custom presentation—our play in the shop that we thought we’d wonderful warm with cream! A Taste of magnificent house malt with cork seal, produce our own compilation. But no Scotland—Patterson’s Shortbread, three high quality wooden box and custom need, here it is, with the right title too... Arran Provisions jams and a miniature label, £ 30.00. This blues CD includes a selection of 15 of Langs Supreme. Gourmet Collection tracks and comes with the LFW custom- —marmalade, mustard and honey—all ers’ seal of approval. Artists include with whisky. Yummy-yummy! Sunnyland Slim & Lacy Gibson, Byther HAGGIS £ 3.25(b) Smith, Buster Benton with Carey Bell, GLENFIDDICH CAKE £ 10.50(b) Big Walter ‘Shakey’ Horton, Mississippi CHOCOLATE / GLAYVA CAKE £ 5.60(b) Fred McDowell and Billy Boy Arnold & A TASTE OF SCOTLAND £ 6.90(b) Sammy Lawhorn. GOURMET COLLECTION £ 4.90(b) Sounds good already! I ASKED FOR WHISKY—CD £ 6.50(a) Resistance is Useless Classic Six Miniature Packs

BASIC CUSTOM LABEL £ 2.50+bottle CUSTOM LABEL PACKAGE £ 30.00 OTHER LABEL SERVICE POA Handmade chocs from Clarkes of Loch PLEASE CALL SOON Ewe are sheer luxury. A 150g box of TO DISCUSS CUSTOM LABELS Glenmorangie Truffles includes: apricot, The Classic Six is a selection of single FOR CHRISTMAS malts from United Distillers’ portfolio coffee, praline dakar and plain with and while one always has one’s own vanilla—all with 18 year old single malt. classics, these six form a magnificent Ho-Ho! Novelties Dept. GLENMORANGIE TRUFFLES £ 6.70(a) tasting team of the different regions. Surprise your friends with a full twelve- Even if the recipient has had some or bottle case of whisky this New Year! And Remember... all of them before it’s very worthwhile Hours of fun and entertainment with going through them again as we recently this real Guinness Book of Records enjoyed finding out. Michael Jackson’s authenticated “smallest bottle of whisky (no, not that one) video provides inter- in the world” a tiny 5cm high—gosh! esting insight. Alternatively be the hit at your MH CLASSIC SIX MIN PACK £ 15.80(b) bar-b-que with this witty fake red alarm! CLASSIC SIX + VIDEO £ 16.80(c) Contains not a button to press, but a tiny bottle of whisky—IN CASE OF EMER- Book Dept. GENCY—BREAK GLASS! Ha-Ha! (Not suitable for children.) No matter how big your order, the maxi- mum you pay is £5.90 for your delivery to one address, (see back of stock list). The letters in brackets following prices of whiskyware indicate the carriage charge for individual items if ordered separately. We’re not setting Christmas delivery deadlines—as ever we’ll do our best to A comprehensive range of books for the CASE OF TINY BOTTLES £ 8.50(a) get it to you quickly—but it’s worth whisky fan—see our Stock List. IN CASE OF EMERGENCY £ 1.99(a) ordering soon (now?) for Christmas. PAGE 8 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD tasters tasters tasters tasters tasters nosingsnosingsnosingsnosingsnosings What’s new in the shop, Richard? What’s new in the news, Richard? Most exciting is three new releases from The Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) Glenmorangie—two more finishes akin to has been very active in arguing for a staged the excellent Port Wood and a very attrac- reduction in the tax on spirits and has pro- tive limited edition collector’s “must have”. posed a staged reduction of 4% each year The Culloden Bottle (limited edition of until parity with beer and wine— spirits have 2,500) is launched to commemorate the twice their rate of duty at present. To kick 250th Anniversary of (you guessed) the Bat- start the programme the government is tle of Culloden. The bottle is a replica of an being asked for an 8% drop now. Evidence 18th Century spirit flask that once belonged that this is a jolly good idea is a 1995 record to Duncan Forbes of Culloden and now re- export result compared with a UK drop of sides in the National Museum of Scotland. 26%, or a predicted £100m revenue lost to Encased in a solid mahogany box (environ- the exchequer, since the last increase. mentally chummy—natch) with C18th-style A new calculation states that the Scotch engraving on the lid and a signed, numbered Whisky Industry supports a total of 47,760 ALASTAIR BUCHANAN certificate. All this desirability is further jobs; 14,000 directly and the rest in DISTILLERY PRINTS wrapped in a sleeve with a scene from the farming, bottling, transport and other de- Alastair has assembled a portfolio of battle. This is a very attractive presentation pendent jobs (including Lyndsay and me, over 60 different distillery illustra- (sorry no pic. yet) and a must for any seri- presumably). tions—a unique record of the industry ous collection. Distilled 1971, 43%, £125, Allied Distillers have sold Pultney Distill- featuring some much-missed buildings. don’t hesitate. ery to Inver House Distillers. Further to Our black and white printing does little Tain L’Hermitage is a limited release of Allied’s continued program of rationalisation, justice to his full colour gouache art- Glenmorangie transferred to L’Hermitage West of Scotland favourite Black Bottle has work. Each image measures about 3” x casks at 12 years and racked in Tain (which been sold to Matthew Gloag (Famous 4” and is in the style of the one he has is twinned with the Rhone town) for a further Grouse). Allied own Teachers who are to done of our shop above. five years. Sweet and fresh with a winey follow Bell’s recent lead with a TV campaign A single print, with mount, in a narrow finish and a long Burgundy/Rhone aftertaste, featuring Bob the Sheepdog and the strap- mahogany frame (6” x 7”), or cream col- this is one for drinking and collecting. A one- line “you can’t teach an old dog new tricks”. oured moulding, costs £6.95 (+50p P+P). off limited release, 43% at £32.90. Let’s hope they can afford colour film. Framed sets of four, eight and sixteen Finally the latest addition to the Burn Stewart is to start bottling in India. prints are available with mahogany Glenmorangie port-finish-folio (geddit?) The USA is considering dropping its health frame. This includes our most popular, has spent 12 years in white yankee warning on alcohol. Now “Consumption of a set of all eight Islay distilleries, oak and then ‘several’ years fin- alcohol has benefits” and “may be safe and £38 (+£5 P+P). ishing in Malmsey Madeira pleasurable”. This compares with current Although we stock Alastair’s delightful drums. No rush here but U.S. advice such as “not recommended” and prints we ask that you deal with Alastair sounds good for Christmas! The “no net benefit” (good grief!). direct for mail order business. Write or Madeira Finish is the same strength Surrey-based boffins reckon they’ve ’phone him for a list and brochure of and price as L’Hermitage. developed a computer that can accurately what’s available. Your favourite distill- UD’s Glendullan, Glenury Royal and sniff Scotch and differentiate a Bombay ery could be gracing your wall in about Linkwood bottlings join the Rare Bell’s or a Reel MacKoy from the authentic 7 days. Malts Selection. Scotch. Big business as cratur counterfeit- Alastair Buchanan Otherwise, we have some stocks remaining ing is rife throughout the world. Scotch Malt Whisky Prints, of a Signatory bottling of Longrow, that has Local favourite Scottish Island Liqueur Old School House, been very well received by our customers. went belly-up last year but has been Cousland, Also new in is Drumguish from the new salvaged by an Argyll businessman who now By Dalkeith, Speyside Distillery. Carrying no age, this 3 has the necessary approval from the US Midlothian. EH22 2NZ. year old is more for the collector rather than Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms Telephone 0131 663 1058 the drinker: “Nice in cream sauce with steak” (Firearms? good grief!) to export. Fax 0131 663 0084. was one customer’s less than enthusiastic hosted its first wedding tasting note. this summer. (Presumably a small one.) Please remember to mention the Scotch Did we mention the appointment of The In- Whisky Open Day looks like being a Whisky Review when enquiring. verarity as our House Malt? Response from regular event. About the last saturday in May customers at tastings is very gratifying—an the industry opens its doors to many facili- easy-drinking dram with buckets of charm, ties such as grain distilleries and maltings, well balanced and a sucker for a good, equal otherwise too busy for visitors. Free drams, measure of water. We serve it with fruit des- pipebands and bouncy castles are other serts, trifles etc., pre-watered to 50:50, in- attractions. We should have more info in stead of wine—a real table hit! early May; send a SAE then. For bookworms, a new expanded edition of A Bavarian company has put a single malt Milroy’s Almanack and a re-vamped into an aerosol can. “It’s no joke, we have The Malt File are awaited—haven’t seen a schnapps in an aerosol” says the compa- either yet. ny’s chairman. Yes, but why? Suggestions Lastly, if you think our prices are downright include, a) convincing your wife you really reasonable, talk from the bar is that a major have been in the pub all night and, b) mak- supermarket is to have a whisky for £6.99 ing your dram go further. LFW would like to this Christmas. Deduct £1.05 VAT, £5.77 hear from the importer. AND a customer excise duty and that leaves 18p for the bot- told us of a Scotch Whisky Board Game as BENROMACH DISTILLERY tle, label, outer, transport, profit(?) and, yes, involved as Monopoly, sounds interesting— New owners Gordon & MacPhail 3yo Scotch. We haven’t tried it yet so we anyone know more? We’re also still looking plan to start distilling next year. can’t sing its praises... for that whisky-flavoured toothpaste...

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 9 SPEED AND VIOLENCE! To describe this in a little more detail, mushroom world. The individual yeast we must go back a step or two into the cells are tiny, you need a magnification —the magic of yeast production process for Scotch Whisky, of x100 to see them at all well. They are Roger Jones specifically malt whisky production. round to oval in shape and often you can Industry Manager, Quest International Barley malt is the source of the starchy see a daughter cell forming by a process Throughout recorded history and prob- material which eventually becomes best described as budding. One gramme ably for a lot longer, Saccharomyces whisky. The malt is milled and mashed. of yeast contains an incredible 10,000 cerevisiae has been closely associated During the starch is converted million cells. They may be small but they with Homo sapiens. Put another way, to sugar by the natural enzymes present are fast workers. At peak growth the we (mankind that is) use yeast a lot. in malt grains. The sugary worts are cells can double in number in about Bread, beer, wine, cider, and spirits are then extracted with hot water. 2 hours whilst producing alcohol at a all dependent on yeast as are many of Even before the extraction of sugars is prodigious rate. Yeast is usually deliv- the nutritional and flavouring products finished, the first running of wort is ered to the distilleries as a beige coloured for foods. It may come as a surprise ‘pitched’ with yeast. Sometimes this is solid with the consistency of slightly that there is about 1,000,000 tonnes of done literally by emptying 25kg bags of hard ice cream, packed in 25kg woven yeast produced and sold in the world yeast into the washback (the fermenta- polypropylene sacks. To keep it alive and each year! tion vessel), sometimes the yeast is healthy it has to be transported and I work at Glenochil Yeast Factory which suspended in water before pitching. stored at refrigeration temperature. is Scotland’s only yeast factory. Situated A typical mash of 8 tonnes of malt grains So where did the distilling yeasts come at the foot of the Ochil Hills about five could take 150kg of yeast. The yeast from? The true answer is lost in the miles east of Stirling, it owes this starts to ferment visibly within a few mists of time, but we can make some location to the fact that it had originally hours and the fermentation can be over educated guesses. Probably originally been a distillery which was founded, we in 50 hours. from wet grain, a primitive beer or believe, by a local farmer in 1746. The sheer speed and apparent violence dough mixture fermenting with yeasts By 1880 a large quantity of surplus of the fermentation accounts for the that were around in the environment. yeast was sold to other distillers and to well- known difficulty that the distiller Since then a few thousand years worth bakers. The operation gradually evolved experiences in keeping the wash within of selection of yeast strains has been over time and it became solely a yeast the washback! In the bad old days young carried out by vintners, brewers, distill- factory in 1930. So the factory site can lads were employed to beat the foam into ers and latterly yeast manufacturers. claim nearly 250 years of industrial submission with heather or birch At present there could easily be more production. The factory belongs to Quest brooms. Now washback lids are fitted than a thousand yeast strains in regu- International which is part of the with a mechanical foam beater, a sort of lar commercial use. All will be quite Unilever Group of companies. paddle rotating above the foam danger specialised for the role intended, such Much rebuilding has been done over the level (hopefully). In reference to the old as whisky production. years and now our state-of-the-art plant days, the foam beater is called a ‘switch’. This specialisation involves another fact makes a range of distillery, food In all of this it is easy to forget that the of wonderment to those who work with flavouring and bakery yeasts. However yeast not only produces alcohol from the yeast. In the process of yeast selection it is the distillery yeasts that concern sugar but it also has a profound effect we have obtained yeast strains that us here. on the flavour of the Scotch Whisky. not only produce alcohol, but also Scotch Whisky production is just as Much remains to be found out about this contribute positively to the flavour of dependent on yeast as is beer and wine, effect and the way in which it interacts Scotch Whisky. but what is yeast, where did it come from with the other critical factors such as the When you savour your next dram, spare and what does it do? malt, the distillation, the maturation a thought for the yeast which helped to The last is probably the easiest to and so on. However, it is certain that make it. Just 14 micrograms or 150 explain. In fact we get more than a clue whisky would not taste like whisky million cells is sufficient for one bottle from its name in various languages. without the action of the right yeast. of Scotch. Levure in French and Levadura in Yeasts are classified scientifically as A little bit of nature’s magic harnessed Spanish are both derived from the Latin microfungi and thus belong to the for the product we know and love. word for ‘lifting’ , a reference to bread dough. In contrast the English word came from the Dutch Gist which also means ‘foam’, a reference to the well- known frothy head of an active alcoholic fermentation. Does this mean that alcoholic beverages were of more importance to the British and Dutch, whilst bread was regarded more highly in France and Spain? Anyway we know that both effects have the same cause, the simultaneous production of alcohol and carbon dioxide by yeast that has encountered some sugar in relatively warm condi- tions. The yeast takes in the sugar and uses it for growing more yeast and for the maintenance of the existing cells in a good healthy condition. The alcohol and carbon dioxide so necessary to the baking and beverage industries today are merely the by- products of yeast doing what it wants to do!

PAGE 10 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD the 1920’s by some companies; for exam- FIRST RUN ple, spring loaded caps made of tin or Isle of Arran Distillers are offering an metal protected by lead or similar attractive opportunity to play a part in capsules were very common. Screw caps their future. For those of you who were also introduced at this time, missed their £450 Founder’s bond (now similar to those which can be found on closed) a single case bond is now on every-day drinking whiskies today. offer through Loch Fyne Whiskies. GLASS A palatable £75 secures the bond holder AN AUCTION GUIDE TO Early bottles were often hand blown or a case of twelve bottles of Isle of Arran made in three pieces formed together single malt to be delivered in 6 years. COLLECTING SCOTCH WHISKY whilst the glass was molten. Look for The price includes bottling and delivery Martin Green, Christie’s, Scotland slight bubbles and imperfections in the but not excise duty (currently £ 69.24) Collecting Scotch whisky is a hobby glass which is usually clear or green in or VAT on the resulting total (£ 25.24), enjoyed by many enthusiasts most of colour, bottles which do not stand per- both payable on removal from bond. whom never touch a drop from the more pendicular and those which are not Those of you who are less impatient can expensive bottles in their collection but conventionally shaped. have their stock further matured on the appreciate the bottles for their age, LABELS island for £2.50 per year. originality of design, shape, condition The condition and legibility are highly “Our faith in a new distillery on Arran and design and colouring of the label. important; look for date, name of bot- has been borne out by the fantastic All of the above factors contribute to- tler, company name, crest and logo. reaction to the new spirit,” says Market- wards the essence of the best collections Some labels are very colourful depicting ing Director Andrew Currie. “We were in the world, some of which are housed printed scenes of distilleries or views of confident that Gordon Miller (Manager, overseas. The export market has seen Scotland; others can be very plain bear- left) was going to produce a good first many bottles which have never been ing only the basic details of the whisky. production and to our delight he’s pro- available at home, hence the high qual- Where single malts are concerned look duced an outstanding one”. ity of foreign collections. for the name of the distillery. The words No two bottles are the same where older “Liqueur Scotch Whisky”, “Rare Old Li- examples are concerned. Above all the queur Scotch Whisky”, “Fine Old Scotch “golden Nectar” was produced for Whisky” etc., denote that the whisky consumption; it never ceases to amaze was moderately mature when bottled. that bottles which actually manage to Where blends are concerned look for the survive from the last century are still in words “Rare” or “Fine Old Blended excellent condition to this day. Some Scotch Whisky”. Some of the malts used brands have disappeared without trace in the blend may have spent between 3 whilst others which do materialise have and 25 years or more in the cask. never been heard of before. 20th CENTURY WHISKY Some of the best collections in this Since the 18th century, some 860 malt country are owned by the distilleries and grain distilleries have existed, only themselves. They are continually a small proportion managing to survive. LFW sampled the new spirit with the looking for bottles to replenish their THE SINGLE MALTS Chief Nose of discerning independent archives; usually brands which are no The single malts available today for bottlers, Adelphi, and we agreed that it longer produced or early examples of every-day drinking have been matured is very sprightly, light and lively. “A rich which samples have not been retained for between 3 and 15 years in the cask. Dalwhinnie” is one prediction of Arran with the future in mind. Anything older is usually more special. Distillers and we agreed but fancied we With my company holding whisky On the whole, most distilleries have re- detected a dash of in there auctions twice a year there is a great leased onto the market a particular also. Whatever, we thought it to be very variety of collectors’ bottles available. brand which is very special. Primarily promising and this offer very attractive. Here are a few points to look for if you produced for commemorative purposes Your money is assured by a reputable are thinking of starting a collection and or the collectors’ market, it is also en- Scottish Bank. are interested in authentic bottles from joyed by serious malt drinkers. 12 bottle CASE ARRAN BOND £75.00 the 19th and early 20th century. Christie’s hold Whisky auctions in POINTS TO LOOK FOR— November and March each year. CAPSULES, CORKS AND SEALS Telephone 0141 332 5759 SPRINGBANK CASKS The earliest form of seal, applied after Those of you with a bit more dosh to the cork had been driven, was made of squander on drink may be interested in melted wax and often embossed with the SPRINGBANK LETTERS a full cask of Springbank. There are six producing company’s name, brand name Our Springbank sponsored letters page cask options starting with a 330 bottle of the whisky or a crest. is being held over for one edition due to bourbon cask costing £850 (excluding Early capsules were usually made of constraints on space in this edition and duty and vat—payable on removal) in- lead or a metal based substance and a natural justice that the award of a very cluding 10 years maturation. Further fitted to the bottle after the cork had valuable bottle of Longrow should go to details on request. been driven in. Some are embossed with the best letter rather than the letter! the company name logo or crest and/or The writer of the most worthy letter CAVEAT EMPTOR name of the brand or distillery. published will receive a much sought With a top-of-the-range new sherry butt If the bottle does not have a driven cork after bottle of Longrow courtesy of (660 bottles) from Springbank costing it may have a stopper. In order to distin- . £1,850 (the reasonable going rate) we guish this, look for a slight indentation No suggestions for our caption competi- wonder why there are ‘Wine and Spirit running around the neck underneath the tion, (it was a stinker) so the tenner goes Investment Advisors’ offering whisky capsule where the edge of the stopper in the West Highland Native Woodlands casks of unknown provenance for meets the neck of the bottle. Box, (the We Hate Sitka Spruce gang). £3,000+. Be warned, there are some Other types of seals were introduced in Other donations forwarded. very dubious offers being touted.

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 11 INTRODUCING OUR H FY HOUSE MALT C N O E During the summer we finally got round L to tracking down the producer of The whiskies

Inverarity whisky, one we had heard of I N L but not seen. We thought it worth in- V L £2.00E OFF!Y vestigating because of the similarity in R G A R A R name with Inveraray and maybe worth your next ApurchaseY of offering to visitors as a memento of their cask strength whisky visit to the town. Over the ’phone we were offered a malt LONG-TERM OFFER XMAS OFFER FROM at a very attractive price by a charming Remember, all our independent cask GORDON & MACPHAIL man, name of Ronnie Martin and we strength bottlings include a voucher Buy any two bottles from the following ordered a small quantity for further worth £2.00 off a future purchase of a range and get a free 20cl bottle of investigation. similar bottling. Athol Brose liqueur. The hootch duly arrived and we appre- Offer applies to Cask, C, JM, S or A la- Choose any two bottles from: ciated an old style label on a cork bels of over 46%Alc. Does not apply to (two of same qualifies) stoppered bottle. Inside resided a pale MH bottlings or those 46% and under. G&M ARDMORE 1980 40% £ 22.80 whisky with a full aroma and rich taste All this despite our new pricing struc- G&M BALBLAIR 10 40% £ 20.90 somewhere between a Dalwhinnie and ture of cask strength whiskies. Our CC CAOL ILA 1980 40% £ 24.30 an Edradour. With water huge volumes stock list now has many cask strength G&M GLENTAUCHERS 1979 40% £ 24.30 of perfume emerge and the whisky whiskies for under £35. With two pounds G&M INVERLEVEN 1984 40% £ 21.50 becomes a dessert wine, eminently off as well—jings! that’s a good deal! G&M LINKWOOD 15 40% £ 24.50 drinkable—dangerously so in fact! Caol Ila and Linkwood are obvious Here is a single malt (specifically, an choices but we’re always surprised we eight year old Aultmore) that will cer- don’t sell more Balblair or Ardmore. tainly please an experienced malt drinker and also convince the novice of So what if you don’t like liqueurs? the benefits of buying quality. A very At G&M’s Centenary lunch at the Man- reasonable price for a superb product, sion House Hotel, Elgin in May the des- quality and value. What better criteria sert was superb and praised by all at our for a House Malt we thought. table. So good in fact that we asked for the recipe and now recommend it to you. UNITED DISTILLERS Use your freebie to try it! DISTILLERY RANGE Chocolate Athol Brose Bombe Buy two get a 20cl Glen Ord free! with Caramelised Oranges Our friends at United Distillers have Chocolate Ice Cream—15 fl oz double offered a further quantity of midi Glen cream, lightly whipped; 3 egg yolks and Ord’s for UK mail order buyers of any 3oz sugar, whisked together; 3oz plain two bottles from their Distillery range melted chocolate. of malts. (Two of same qualifies.) Athol Brose Ice Cream—5 fl oz lightly These are (all MH, 43% and £25.90): whipped cream; 1 egg yolk and 1oz sugar Lowland whisked together; 1 fl oz Athol Brose. BLADNOCH 10yo ROSEBANK 12yo Caramelised Oranges—3 large oranges; Highland 4oz sugar; 2 fl oz water. ABERFELDY 15yo BLAIR ATHOL 12yo First make the chocolate ice cream: CLYNELISH 14yo TEANINICH 10yo 1—Mix egg and chocolate together. Speyside 2—Fold in whipped cream. AULTMORE 12yo BENRINNES 15yo 3—Fill 4 single bombe moulds or 4 small BALMENACH 12yo CRAIGELLACHIE 14yo basins, remainder can go in a tub. DAILUAlNE 16yo DUFFTOWN 15yo 4—Set in freezer (overnight). GLENDULLAN 12yo GLENLOSSIE 10yo 5—Scoop out centres of the moulds and INCHGOWER 14yo LINKWOOD 12yo put them back in the freezer while you MANNOCHMORE 12yo MORTLACH 16yo make the Athol Brose ice cream by fold- PITTYVAICH 12yo ing all the ingredients together. Islay 6—Fill the centres of the bombes with CAOL ILA 15yo the Athol Brose Ice Cream and leave in We contacted Mr Martin, told him the The offer is very limited so order soon. good news and asked of his background. the freezer to set. Retired after 34 years with industry SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW is free 7—Segment oranges into a metal con- leader DCL (UD), ultimately as Manag- to all bona fide mail order custom- tainer. Add all the juice. ing Director of production, he was ers. If you have not bought by mail 8—In a thick-bottomed pan, gently heat awarded the O.B.E. for services to order from the last (Spring) cata- the sugar and water until dissolved and Scotch Whisky and is now Professor of logue and do not buy from the ac- then turn up the heat to full, but do not Distilling at Heriot-Watt University. companying (Autumn) list then we stir. Looks like we chose the right whisky and will not be troubling you again. 9—When the mixture turns brown, pour the right man! it over the oranges (some of the caramel PLEASE TELL YOUR will turn hard, but leave in the fridge LOCH FYNE WHISKIES for two hours and this will soften). House Malt FRIENDS ABOUT US! 10—Turn out ice cream bombes and The Inverarity 8 40% £18.90 © LOCH FYNE WHISKIES 1995 serve with caramelised oranges.

PAGE 12 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD