H FY C N SCOTCH O E whiskiesL I N L V L E Y R G A R R AY A REVIEW

EDITION 3 SPRING 1995 BRITISH WHISKY REVIEW? Being based in Inveraray, a sizeable proportion of the visitors to our shop in the Summer come from overseas and one of our lots is to try and explain why Scotch is dearer in Scotland than it is in the vast majority of countries. Explain- ing that it is the duty (and the tax on the duty) does not ease their bewilder- ment; why is such a tax levied on a Brit- ish product by the British Government? Answers on a postcard please. In November a confident Chancellor boasted that he understood the injustice of the tax regime on drink, particularly Scotch. However, hopes for a reduction in the rate of duty were little compen- sated by a third successive freeze. The following week a spiteful Mr Clarke Photo courtesy Customer Conniff lashed out a 4% increase in alcohol duty ‘INTRODUCTION TO MALT WHISKY’ WEEKENDS to plug a hole in his assumptions. Hosted by The Great Inn, Inveraray, the two night events include a guest tasting Last time the duty on spirits was raised, in the Magnificent Court Room of Inveraray Jail which should be a unique and Exchequer revenue reduced by £80m. truly memorable occasion. 19/20 May, 16/17 June and 14/15 July, price £125 all in. Spirits carry two times the duty of wine. Further details from The Great Inn, (not us!) telephone 01499 302466. Scotch, the indigenous British product, has been penalised at twice the rate BRUICHLADDICH of the imported product. While the H FY MOTHBALLED C N Chancellor argues in the European O E Union that discrimination in duty is In recognition of excess stocks within the L unlawful, he applies discriminatory industry and due to over-capacity of taxes at home. While the government production facilities, the Whyte & I N L argues around the world that British Mackay Group, following its acquisition V L £2.00E OFF!Y R G spirits (principally Scotch) should not be of Invergordon Distillers in 1993, has A R RAY A hampered by high taxes it applies some mothballed production at three of your next purchase of of the highest taxes by way of example. the newly acquired distilleries— whisky More perplexing is the degree of tax Tullibardine and Tamnavulin in the breaks handed out to “the City”— Highlands and Bruichladdich on Islay. certainly an important revenue earner The other four malt distilleries within LONG-TERM OFFER but now less than twice the size of the the group—Dalmore, Jura, Fettercairn Remember, all our independent cask Industry. and Tomintoul—remain operational. strength bottlings include a voucher Perhaps it would be better calling it The three mothballed distilleries remain worth £2.00 off a future purchase of a ‘British Whisky’. in trading and continue to provide ware- similar bottling. Very many thanks to all our custom- housing facilities for customers. The Offer applies to Cask, C, JM or S labels ers for a great Christmas spending spree single malts from these distilleries will of over 46%Alc. Does not apply to MH with Loch Fyne Whiskies and for your still be available for sale, as there are bottlings or those 46% and under. nice comments about the SWR; we hope sufficient stocks laid down for a number you appreciated the free delivery bonus. of years requirement. Once again, this edition is an exercise The four distilleries remaining opera- INSIDE THIS ISSUE... in distilling and condensing and we must tional within the group continue to Another great interview from an indus- think hard about the addition of more provide single malt whisky stocks, both try leader, our most common questions pages to accommodate the enthusiasm for bottling as brands and for inter- and some tremendous offers in conjunc- of contribution from the industry. industry trading purposes. tion with United Distillers. Read on. SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 1 can actively market in any one place. In sales that we could expect? THE SALES MAN the UK we lead with the premium Are we creating an elitism about single Teacher’s and then the value for money malts that is putting potential entrants Stewart’s Cream of the Barley. Black off? Or have we got the prices so high Bottle which is linked to Laphroaig, is that so few people are prepared to take our super premium blend and a big the step of paying £25-30 for a bottle? player in Scotland but has yet to be That’s a of a lot of money to ask a new promoted in the English market. These consumer to pay to experiment, and it’s three satisfy the home trade. unfortunate that the tax element in Ballantine’s developed outside the UK, that price accounts for some 67% of the Teacher’s inside the UK and in the old total cost. Empire, Long John developed in West- LFW: Could it be that people think ern Europe and it is from those roots they don’t like whisky? that their strengths are today. It is our Well, quite often they don’t the first time great fortune that there is very little they drink it! But malts do come into conflict in how the histories of our core their own and there is a malt to suit brands have brought our portfolio to- every taste. Someone who is new to gether. Other brands such as Islay Mist whisky when faced with a Laphroaig have been sold off because we felt that may say “But this isn’t whisky! This is we could not devote sufficient funds, something else. Where have you been time or effort to the brand. Rather than all my life?” Or equally they may say let the brand and its history fade away, “Wow! Are you truthfully trying to sell we sold it to allow another company to this stuff?!” Andrew Dewar-Durie is Managing develop and expand. Director of Allied Distillers Ltd. If we tried to handle them all in which, after United Distillers, is one market it would inevitably lead to Scotland’s leading Whisky producer muddling the distribution chain and to “Creating an and exporter. us losing focus. Our brands are compli- Mr. Dewar-Durie found time in a very mentary to each other, not conflicting. busy diary to talk to Loch Fyne Whis- LFW: Brand price is sensitive. elitism?” kies for a wide ranging discussion on I believe that’s what gives our portfolio some of the complexities of Whisky mar- a large degree of strength. keting. Teacher’s is the number three in the UK LFW: Apart from Laphroaig, why with its price between Grouse and Bell’s. don’t you market many other malts? LFW: Please tell us something of The UK is a very tough market, and you Four years ago we marketed Laphroaig yourself and your company. see a number of instances where brand with Glendronach, Miltonduff and Allied Distillers is the flagship company market share rules. This has forced Tormore. Since then we’ve had a change of Allied Domeq which is a new producers to make decisions that they in policy. In order to maintain that all- company formed following the purchase probably would not like to make. They important focus we now have one last summer of the spirit company may talk up their market shares, but strategic brand and that is Laphroaig. Pedro Domeq by Allied Lyons. are they really getting the profit that I can’t resist telling you of our absolute Allied Domeq is concentrating on they want? Things are further confused delight with the brand; last year we saw retailing, and wines and spirits globally. with the various offers that come 23% growth in sales (better than the Allied Distillers (ADL) is the single in throughout the year. That’s why the market 17%) and it was awarded the largest component accounting for the current success of Teacher's, the fastest Prince of Wales’s Royal Warrant. That, majority of profit and turnover. growing premium brand, is very and a royal visit to the distillery last My background is as a salesman, an pleasing to see. June, was a big boost for all at ADL. export salesman in particular, and I LFW: Some may claim that all Our number one priority is to get that came latterly to ‘marketing’ when the brands are the same but with a strategic brand exactly where we want word came in to the language in the different label. it in terms of volume objectives and 1980’s! I have been MD for three years Absolutely not! Anyone can clearly focus through our distribution system. and my job is now more production differentiate and discriminate between Other malt brands will be worked on a oriented than it has ever been before. different brands. Each of ADL’s brands tactical basis where the opportunity I joined the whisky industry in 1968, is individually crafted in order to be exists. In the UK the others are used as an export trainee at White Horse unique. But it is more than taste. Each tactically rather than strategically. At Distillers and spent the first part of brand carries the promise of satisfaction present Glendronach is widely available, my career in all parts of the world in- for its target drinker’s needs but also Scapa and Miltonduff is in duty-free cluding six years in Latin America and offers its consumers added value shops and Tormore in Victoria Wine, an six in the Far East. I left White Horse through a unique identity or image with associated company. in 1983 to join Long John International, which they empathise. Tactical opportunities are where the dis- the spirits arm of Whitbread, and was Individual malt whiskies are brands and tributor in a particular country has need with them until they were acquired by surely none tastes more different than in his portfolio for a second or third malt; Allied Lyons in 1989. Laphroaig! it’s niche marketing to put it another ADL has what I believe to be the most LFW: Malts account for only 5% of way. So many distributors have prob- balanced portfolio of any company in all whisky sales. Aren’t they an lems with overlong portfolios that there the industry. Balanced in its brands and irritation? is a lack of focus within them. It’s our balanced in its primary production. Unfortunately, as yet, the industry fails job—particularly as we are cousins to LFW: ADL own many whisky to generate that all important purchase that distribution system—to help them brands, some of which we do not see by the consumer. Despite very positive get that focus. in Britain very often, why is that? support from the trade and press writ- I’m not going to say no more malts, but There is a limit to how many brands you ers, I wonder why are we not getting the it’s going to be on a tactical basis.

PAGE 2 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD We have fourteen malt distilleries and sumer profile is between 18 and 25, the in nearly every case between our own vast majority of them are drinking ALLIED bottlings and those of Gordon & Ballantine’s with Coke or another mixer, MacPhail, the singles are available. actively demanding the brand by name. DISTILLERS LFW: But very few independent Scotch Whisky’s image could not be LIMITED bottlings of Laphroaig. higher, it has real social caché. It’s Independent bottlings of Laphroaig brands that people want. ADL began operations in 1988 from occur very rarely now. There were LFW: Presumably, who distributes Allied Lyons and now represents the clashes where independent bottlers were is important. operations of George Ballantine, Wm. clearly riding on the back of our mar- Control of distribution has been a Teacher’s, Stewart’s of Dundee and Long keting effort. This is, we hope, a thing primary objective for some time within John International. of the past and there is a much better our group as it has been within our The second largest whisky company understanding of our roles. industry. worldwide and the only industry major Where there are distilleries whose Now we own a major or minor share with its headquarters entirely based in singles we are not selling we are per- holding in 90% of our distributors world- Scotland. From its Dumbarton home, fectly happy to work hand-in-hand with wide there is a danger that we are so this totally integrated company man- responsible bottlers who are meeting eager with our portfolio that we over- ages its production ‘from grain to glass’. that niche demand. burden them. Our job is to help distribu- It has its own cereal and malting com- LFW: We get a lot of Islay fans who tors in all countries to pick the right pany and owns 14 malt and 2 grain dis- would very much appreciate the brands. Throwing the whole lot at one tilleries as well as the industry’s most return of your Ardbeg, 10 years old. market is going to work against us. advanced bottling plant. What could there be beyond Laphroaig? Getting control of our distribution in Sales of 8.5 million cases of Scotch per It’s very interesting to hear that from France and Germany has undoubtedly year of which over 80% is exported. you and it’s up to us to respond to that. been a big step forward for Ballantine’s. Brands We are aware of great interest in Ardbeg Gold Seal, the 12 year old, was launched Blended Whisky and we are working on how to meet it five years ago but never quite got the Ballantine’s Finest, Gold Seal, 17, 21 but it would be on a very limited basis. focus it needed. No surprise when you & 30 year olds We are aware that there are independ- consider that we shared two European Teacher’s Highland Cream & 12yo ent bottlings of Ardbeg. distributors with our competitor, Chivas Long John & 12yo LFW: ADL Exports a higher propor- Regal! Now we have control of distribu- Black Bottle tion than the industry average. tion the results are very pleasing. Stewart’s Cream of the Barley That’s true. Last year we won the LFW: And prospects for the future? Old Smuggler Queen’s Award for Export, a major Its a tough market out there, it’s tougher Doctor’s Special achievement for ADL and the business than it’s ever been. The problem is that Malt Whisky in Scotland. Some 85% of our whisky is it is damned difficult to get the price Laphroaig exported. Ballantine’s is our premium increases that we need but we are opti- The Glendronach brand throughout Europe. Teacher's, mistic as Western Europe and Japan Miltonduff historically a ‘colonial’ brand, is almost come slowly out of recession. The Tormore a new item as it moves into Germany We’ve certainly got exciting markets for Other distilleries and Eastern Europe. Long John has the future. Latin America and Eastern Ardbeg Inverleven traditionally been at a standard pricing Europe are obviously going to be key, Ardmore Scapa level across western Europe and is a also the Pacific rim and China beyond Pultney Glencadam strength. All played a major part in that. I don’t like to talk too much about Balblair Glenburgie seeing the Award last year. Russia—it’s white spirits first for Rus- Imperial Glentauchers sia—but we remain very optimistic. Profits We have also taken a bold step to launch Turnover 1993/94 £335m “Or have we Teacher’s for local bottling in India. Profit 1993/4 £137.5m That certainly won’t be easy but it’s a Losses first step. It raises some eyebrows but I 1.5m cases per year due to evapora- got prices would point out that India is a huge tion during maturation. domestic whisky market; the decision Market needs the same courage as that of the 15% of world market; ADL is number too high?” board of Teacher’s deciding to bottle in two in the world. Brazil which has proved a real success 13% of the vital Duty Free market. LFW: Yet the overall market for and helped to expand the whole range 11% of UK domestic market. Scotch is reducing. of all Scotch whiskies in that exciting Ballantine’s (5m cases/year) is sold in There has been a lot of criticism over the market. 170 countries and is the leading brand last 18 months of whether the Scotch It is a wonderful industry, a truly in Europe. Whisky Industry is addressing the new global business. The interest in Scotch Teacher’s (UK #3) sells in 150 countries. growing youth market. I think that his- whisky is enormous and it’s our job to Laphroaig is the UK #5 and in the top torically it has not, and I think that with satisfy that interest. 10 selling malts around the world. brands like Black Bottle we actively are. With a portfolio such as ours I feel The USA market accounts for 250,000 Certainly our competitors are doing enormously proud and enthusiastic at cases (3% of sales) so the downturn in some very good work in that area too. I prospects facing Allied Distillers. the US has not significantly affected don’t think we should go overboard with LFW: How much do you talk to your overall performance. the youth market especially in the UK, competitors? Employees but we must find out what they want. Well, we have that strange contrast in 2,100 people in 23 sites across Scotland. We’ve got work going on in cocktails and this industry in that we work very Also employed is 1 gooseman and 100 pre-mixers, all aimed in this direction. closely in primary production but once Chinese Geese, the ‘Scotchwatch’ whose Look at the success of Ballantine’s in in the market place, we fight like hell! job is to protect the massive Dumbuck Spain. Something like 80% of it’s con- LFW: Mr. Dewar-Durie, Thank you. maturation site.

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 3 “The wonderful thing about whisky, apart of course, from drinking it, is that it contains more bluffing elements than al- most any other subject—far more than supply-side economics, more even than wine. Wine breeds envy, discord and snobbery, whisky promotes fellowship, amiability and quiet, unas- suming superiority. Supply-side econom- ics produced Donald Trump.” David Milstead Bluffer’s Guide to Whisky NEW CUSTOMER PAGE Summer is a time when we meet new as well as old customers and get the chance to introduce many to the wonders of Scotland’s Greatest Gift, Scotch Whisky. This section aims to answer some of the more frequently asked questions. GORDON & MACPHAIL What is whisky? The leading independent bottler, G&M mature and bottle a bewildering range The alcohol spirit produced by distilling of single, vatted and blended whiskies from their Elgin, Speyside base. fermented cereals. Whisky is produced in Shown above are examples of the Connoisseurs Choice, Cask and G&M range. many countries, historically those that had climates more suited to growing cereals A single malt is a happy accident of science, with a new bottling. Bear in mind you have rather than grape/wine production. nature and circumstance. Blended and four senses of taste and these are in your Scotch Whisky is the world’s most popular vatted whiskies are one man’s opinion of mouth, not in the back of your throat. Plus spirit and must be (amongst other things) what he thinks you think a good whisky you have some 30 or more senses of smell so made and matured in an oak barrel for at should taste like. Many members of the use the schnoz. Ice in malts is also a no-no; least three years in Scotland, otherwise it industry claim to appreciate blended Scotch you put ice on bruises and in blended Scotch cannot be called Scotch. the most. in hot climates. How is whisky made? Why don’t you stock a certain brand I How do I know which malts I will like? Easy, mix some grain with water and yeast had once? Most single malts will have the region of and let it ferment in the same way that beer Whisky brands tend to fade away faster than origin on the label, either Lowland, High- is produced. Boil up your beer and collect get created as the industry changes from land, Speyside or Islay and these give a clue the steam which will be mostly alcohol. Voilà, hundreds of brand owners to just a few. As to the character of the contents but there are whisky! Throw this away as it is probably big companies expand by the acquisition of many exceptions to the rule. The Lowlands poison, your hair will fall out—apart from small they find that they have two brands are the most gentle; mild almost wine like. which it’s illegal. on the same shop shelf at the same price so The Highlands can be further divided; Scotch whisky must contain barley and Malt one has to go. Some brands are only avail- those from the south are akin to the H i Whisky exclusively malted barley. able overseas because they are better estab- lowlands, those from the north are fuller g What is the difference between a lished there than in the UK. flavoured. Speyside is a category of its own single malt and a double malt? How am I supposed to drink malt within the highlands. The whiskies are A single malt is the product of one malt whisky? complex and half of Scotland’s distilleries distillery and that one distillery only. How you like! Although it does seem a shame are found here. The most fully flavoured There is no such thing as a double malt to mix a £25 malt with a sweet, fizzy mixer. whisky is produced on the island of Islay unless you are with your rich father-in-law Addition of water (anything from a drop to (pronounced eye-la). Islay whiskies are at the bar (technically—‘a large one’). 50:50, depends on the bottling) often reveals unguided missiles in the wrong hands—you Malt whisky is one of four types of Scotch. more character because your nose is happier will either love them or wonder what the The most common is blended whisky, a mix at lower alcoholic strengths, so experiment attraction is in smelling hospitals. of many different single malts and grain whiskies prepared by a ‘blender’ using his sense of smell and years of experience. 95% of all whisky sold is blended whisky and is appreciated the world over for its satisfying subtlety and complexity. is industrially produced alcohol from a variety of cereals including malted barley. The spirit is not fully dis- tilled—a degree of impurity is permitted to add character. It is also stored in Scotland in oak barrels for at least three years before being used for blending. Occasionally you may come across a single grain whisky but its use is mainly as a carrier for malts in blends. A fourth category of whisky is a vatted malt which is a blend of several malts but no grain. Bottles lacking the word ‘single’ may well be MARKET HOUSE (MH) vatted; other clues are descriptions such as Distillery owners produce their own bottlings of single malts, described as ‘Pure Malt’ or ‘100% malt’. market house bottlings. These are “The Classic Six” from United Distillers. PAGE 4 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD OTHER WHISKIES

Our collection of whiskies from unex- pected sources grows with samples from as near as Lancashire and as far afield as India and Thailand. Our thanks to Customer Sangster for returning with two whiskies from Japan, Hi, Nikka Whisky and Golden Horse. Customers Henk Eggens and Els van der Linden of the Grant Cafe de Still in Amsterdam (Holland’s whisky café) sent us a bottle of Dutch Maltky whisky, “a well balanced mixture of real Scotch SIGNATORY Whisky, matured for at least three years in oak-wooden casks, and authen- A small, carefully selected range tic Dutch neutral spirit, prepared spent in the cask—once bottled it does not according to the original method of dis- ‘age’), it will be dearer because of the addi- tillation.” tional storage required. Also whisky evapo- Customer de Barras secured a bottle of CADENHEAD rates in the barrel by about 2% per year so India No. 1 and a quarter bottle Fine Specialise in Cask Strength Whiskies after 21 years only two thirds remain. The Old Whisky from Cyprus. That and a other thing to look out for is the degree of bottle of John Brown Whisky from Malta Books are useful sources of information and alcohol strength as duty is applied accord- retrieved by Customer Bannister are we recommend three in particular: ing to percentage alcohol. Most whiskies are somewhat cheeky. Although they lack value for money—Collins Gem Whisky £3.50 bottled at 40% alcohol by volume (abv), some the word Scotch on the label, the John most informed—Pocket Whisky Book £7.99 at 43% or 46%—15% stronger and so dearer Brown (Queen Victoria’s “Game” taster’s bible—Michael Jackson’s Malt than the 40%. We stock many whiskies with Keeper—allegedly) has a splendid chap Whisky Companion £12.99 strengths of up to 65% so these are the in Kilt and Harris Tweed and the How come they taste so different? equivalent of over a bottle and a half! Cypriot Fine Old is adorned by familiar Malted barley has to be dried before milling What is the Scotch so beaucoup pounds lions rampant. and fermentation and traditionally this has in Scotch-land? We also received from Customer Herron been done over an open fire. In Scotland a The British Government has applied a tax a neck tag from India that reads, “Now variety of fuels is found locally including to sales of wines, beers and spirits and now enjoy the magic of India’s first and only peat (decomposing heather) and coal. The by successive increases the duty on a bottle whisky to offer “Good Mornings After amount of peat used to dry the barley has of Scotch (at 40% abv) is nearly £6. Added to Great Evenings—Drink to evenings of a big influence (on Islay it is the only source this, value added tax is applied to the total Joy. Experience mornings of cheer.” of fuel). Other influences are the style of price (including the duty—a tax on a tax). Sounds like they’ve got a substitute for apparatus employed in the production, The tax on a £40 cask strength bottle is £15! Irn-Bru! (We note the bottle didn’t sur- particularly the still and how that still is Is that bottle really £7,500? vive the long flight home!) i peyside g S h operated by the stillman. The final big in- Yes. It was distilled in 1919 and when it was If you are going overseas and would like l a fluence is the type of oak barrel employed; bottled in 1970, only 24 bottles were in the to retrieve an unusual or indigenous n d it could be one of eight categories from a cask. One is sold every two years or so. whisky for our collection please contact brand new barrel to a well-used second hand What’s your favourite? us for a list of what we have already d sherry or bourbon cask. They all are, depending on the circumstance. and what we seek. We offer swaps from wlan Lo Where’s Cadenhead’s/Connoisseurs Choice We recommend exploration, (try the Classic our stock list for your trouble, but no /Gordon & MacPhail’s Distillery? Six miniature pack as a mini tour of taste guarantees for the morning! These bottles are from Independent bottlers regions) and do not disregard the good who buy the whisky from a distillery and blended whiskies. 1995—ANNIVERSARY OF... bottle it with their name foremost as their We had a whisky in a dumpy green 1895—The Famous Grouse brand badge of quality. With all these independ- bottle but I can’t remember the name. launched by Matthew Gloag. ent bottlings look for the distillery name Bunnahabhainn! (Boo-na-ha-venn). 1920—The Distillers Company Ltd which will be in smaller print. entered the motor fuel business with What are ‘Cask Strength’ Whiskies? ‘Discol’, a molasses-based distillation. Whisky matures in the barrel at about 65%. USA Introduced Prohibition. Prior to bottling it is diluted to 40% so as to 1945—“On no account reduce the bar- incur the least alcohol duty (originally a ley for Scotch whisky. This takes years wartime measure). Cask strength whiskies to mature and is an invaluable export are at natural, barrel strength which pro- and dollar producer. Having regard to vides more impact and immediate flavour. all our other difficulties about export, it These whiskies should be diluted in the glass would be most improvident not to pre- after exploratory sips otherwise anaesthesia serve this characteristic British element will numb the pleasure, (remember doctors of ascendency.”—Winston Churchill. use alcohol as an anaesthetic). Because of 1970—Highland Distillers purchase the variety of casks employed in the indus- Matthew Gloag & Son, owners of the try each cask strength bottling will have the Famous Grouse. Sale caused by the character of the barrel as well as that of the untimely loss of Freddie Gloag aged 61 distillery so there is great variation. whose death caused an unexpected

Why are some whiskies so expensive? Photo Courtesy Customer Blair death-duty liability. The first thing to check is the age of the LOCH FYNE WHISKIES Source — H Charles Craig whisky. If it is say 21 years old (the time Stocks the lot! The Scotch Whisky Industry Record. SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 5 UNIQUE 500th ANNIVERSARY AWARD Whyte & Mackay’s master blender, Richard Paterson, won blend was voted the winner by an international selection The Spirit of Scotland Trophy at the recent International Wine panel. and Spirit Competition awards. The entrants, pictured above were (l to r) Allied Distillers, The trophy was introduced to the competition to mark the Burn Stewart Distillers, Wm. Grant & Son, Inver House Dis- 500th anniversary of the first recorded reference to Scotch tillers, Morrison Bowmore, United Distillers and Whyte & whisky in the Scottish Exchequer Rolls in 1494. Mackay. The limited edition bottles pictured above were auc- The challenge was for Scotch whisky companies to create a tioned at Christie’s and raised £1,600 for charity, especially special anniversary blend using whiskies between 18 and 25 The Benevolent Society of the Licensed Trade of Scotland. years old. Seven major players in the industry entered blends (Thank you chaps!) for the award and the Whyte & Mackay 500th anniversary Photo courtesy Christie’s Scotland.

GLEN SCOTIA AND TOBERMORAY BECOMES ‘HAIRY HILL’ TO RE-START LITTLEMILL SINGLE, UNPEATED MALT DISTILLING SOON —“NO PLANS” Tobermoray, the vatted malt is to become The buildings of , Following the receivership last autumn a single following its acquisition by Burn , were bought by the independent of Gibson International, Canadian own- Stewart Distillers in 1993. Further- bottlers Gordon & MacPhail in 1993 for ers of Littlemill and Glen Scotia distill- more, in future, most distillations at the the purpose re-commisioning. Since eries, the assets have been acquired by Isle of Mull distillery will be from then G&M, under the direction of Glen Catrine Bonded Warehouse Ltd. unpeated malt to allow perception of the ‘retired’ Chairman George Urquhart As owners of Distillery Mull character . have been re-equipping (or utensiling as (Inchmurrin & Rhosdhu) and brands Fans of the characteristic, peated, Barnard would say) the distillery, including High Commissioner Scotch current single, Ledaig, will not be particularly with smaller stills than Whisky, Glen Catrine specialise in pro- neglected. Occasionally peated malt will before. It had been hoped that the first ducing ‘value for money brands’ particu- be run through the distillery to produce distillation might take place in this, larly for retail chains. a more typical island style like the their Centenary year but 1996 looks Glen Catrine sought to acquire Gibson’s Ledaig we see today. Supplies of this more likely. brands and inventory of maturing will be limited. Built in 1898, Benromach, which liter- whisky. As a bonus they also acquired The new Tobermoray will carry no age ally means ‘hairy hill’, was innovative the distilleries. statement until stocks are adequately in its use of pumps to supply and Both distilleries are in a mothballed established and there are no plans to discharge water to the Mosset Burn state and there are no plans to either change the distinctive green bottle. some distance from the site. Ownership restart distilling or to close them down. Most of the unpeated product will be changed several times until 1953 when Glen Scotia (Campbeltown) is in a par- used for blending purposes including acquired by the Distillers Company Ltd. ticularly good state of repair and could Burn Stewart’s Scottish Leader. Benromach has been silent since 1983. be re-commissioned relatively quickly. G&M have a superb 22 year old bottling Production is possible if there is in their Connoisseurs Choice range and sufficient interest in the product as will be releasing a specific label some ‘fillings’, the requirement of blenders. time this year. Campbeltown fillings have traditionally been very popular with blenders. The Lowlander Littlemill is not so tidy OOOOPS! — Grovel dept. and requires a considerable degree of In the last edition of SWR we stated that investment. Gordon & MacPhail’s whiskies were Glen Catrine recently expanded their colour corrected. This is not true. No at Alexandria, Customer Campbell sent us this card to colour correction is employed, it’s just expanding the malt distilling capacity notify us of his change of address. Please that the glow from the whiskies is a and adding a grain distillery alongside. make sure you tell us if you are moving. result of the superior casks they employ. PAGE 6 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD NOW EUROPE NOSE At the end of the eighties Michael LETTERS Walter Schobert, Whisky Author Jackson’s big Whisky book had been It is precisely 30 years now since I translated into German and became a Congratulations on Issue two of your discovered my first Malt Whisky. best-seller. I made up my mind to pur- Scotch Whisky Review—this is truly It happened in a bar in Rome with a Glen chase a bottle from every distillery in high fibre and packed with interest. It’s Grant, still the number one in Italy. This Scotland, a decision that was often particularly useful to read the back- incident turned the whisky-world of the smiled at and betted on. ground and methods of the independent young German student up side down, for I have won all of them, the wagers. The bottlers. although Scotch was a synonym for free- only whisky that I was unable to pour Your long interview with Dr. Alan dom and democracy and above all the from a bottle into a glass myself is from Rutherford of United Distillers was also only possible drink for an intellectual, a distillery that is no longer in existence: very revealing. While not doubting my knowledge of whisky was limited to Ben Wyvis. Trevor Conan of Invergordon, UD’s commitment to Scotch Whisky in the blends. who ought to know, consoled me, ex- general and malts in particular, it’s From that day on I was on the lookout plaining that they had never bottled one. depressing to read that Rosebank, that for the best, the true, the only whisky This consolation was short lived; a historic ‘funky little distillery’ (as — Malt. I was studying Protestant Canadian friend has recently sent me a Michael Jackson has described it) faces theology, but my bible became the photograph of his bottle—alongside an total extinction simply because it German edition of David Daiches invitation to come over and taste it! happens to be in the wrong place! “Scotch Whisky—Its Past and Present”. The hunt for the bottles has often taken I likewise feel that Bladnoch is a sad loss In the early seventies The me to Scotland which has become my — no doubt there were good commercial was the malt that had made the world second home—and motivated me to reasons for this closure but apart from realise that there existed something else write my own book, the Malt Whisky producing a characterful malt, it had an apart from blends. The Glenlivet was Guide, which after two years is in its excellent visitor centre—it was packed easy to come by too. second edition here in Germany. out when I visited in the summer of There also existed a Glen Grant—and a Now in Germany, France and Italy an 1991. ten year old at that, not the dodgy one unbelievable variety of malts is on Michael Vardy, Cheshire without the age given that is sold now offer, all because of the independent bot- which conceals the quality of the malt tlers—Gordon & MacPhail, Cadenhead’s rather than revealing it. Aberlour, in and above all Signatory—and the DITO its quadrangular bottle was available, family run such as Macallan, Balvenie, We have very much E CHOICER but only in one shop in Berlin. Every Glenfarclas or Springbank. enjoyed the Scotch '

S now and than, one came across a Their success has finally woken the big Whisky Review and L Laphroaig, a Lochnagar or a Cardhu ones! They too have noticed that of all wish you and your E which were warm heartedly welcomed. the spirits only malt sales are increas- excellent journal T That was it. ing. Thanks to this discovery we now much success. T E R Fortunately I was to travel a lot and able have UD’s “Classic Malts” and the We would like to propose a to make some discoveries in Duty Free “Distillery (Flora and Fauna) Range” or minor sponsorship for your letters col- shops. Italy remained the country where the “Heritage Collection” by Seagram’s. umn. For each issue of the SWR we I could taste many malts in bars and I So great is the success of the malt that would be willing to reward the writer of bought some rare specimens—a Glen there have even been attempts to the best letter with a bottle of Spring- Mhor bottled by the distillery— even a produce some in France and Germany. bank 21 year old single malt whisky. Caperdonich! The only drawback was But that is a story for another time. To start the ball rolling, for the best the Italians preference for young, five Walter is author of Malt Whisky Guide, letter printed in your Autumn 1995 SWR year old whiskies. Führer zu den Quellen, pub. Hädecke we would like to award a bottle of 1974 Longrow. This unique, peaty whisky is extremely rare now and will be so for the next few years or so. A very desirable item. I hope that this will produce some good correspondence and debate. The prize is open both to customers and members of the industry. If you require assist- ance with the adjudicating of the best letter please do not hesitate to ask. Good luck to all— let the debate begin!

Gordon Wright. Director. .

This edition’s winner of the Spring- bank Letter would be Mr. Gordon Wright from Campbeltown—congratula- tions Gordon! The Editor’s decision is made (I think). Something smells here—sub Ed. CAPTION COMPETITION The Bank of Scotland is celebrating its Tercentenary with a new series of bank notes. The reverse of each depicts the Bank’s TRENDY — OR WHAT? ‘involvement in the modern community’. This recently issued £10 note appears to In a recent interview cult folk singer Bob be of a distillery tour in progress. A crisp new tenner to the person who comes up Dylan stated he thought Springbank to with the most amusing caption which will be announced in the Autumn SWR. be “really amazing—incredible”. Bribes of value exceeding £9.99 accepted! Good to see he’s got some good taste. SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 7 NEW! MAIL ORDER OFFERS WITH UNITED DISTILLERS PERSONALISED BOXES... UNITED DISTILLERS THE DISTILLERY RANGE Choose any two from: Flattery gets us everywhere! After our Lowland nice comments towards United Distill- ROSEBANK 12yo, triple distilled which ers in the last SWR they came up with accounts for its light distinctive nose and TWO great customer offers for you. well balanced flavour. Highland — OFFER ONE — ABERFELDY 15yo, distinctive peaty April to June nose. THE DISTILLERY MALTS BLAIR ATHOL 12yo, a mellow deep Order any two bottles from the list to toned aroma, a strong fruity flavour and the right and we will include a free 20cl a smooth finish. bottle Glen Ord 12 yo single malt. CLYNELISH 14yo, fruity, slightly The distillery malts are not commonly smoky and much appreciated by available but include some truly connoisseurs. exceptional malts (try the Clynelish, TEANINICH 10yo, one of the largest Linkwood or Benrinnes—Ed.). distilleries in Scotland. This is assertive Your order must be received during with a spicy, smoky satisfying taste. April, May or June and applies to UK Speyside mail order business only. As supplies AULTMORE 12yo, smooth, well are occasionally sporadic please give an balanced with a mellow finish. alternative if possible. BENRINNES 15yo, rounded and mellow. Favoured by blenders. — OFFER TWO — BALMENACH 12yo, rich flavoured July to September single malt of exemplary quality. THE CLASSIC SIX CRAIGELLACHIE 14yo, excellent, light Customer Horsford is a cabinet maker Buy any two from the Classic Six range and smoky character. and has been making special presenta- below and receive 2 Classic Six DAILUAlNE 16yo, full bodied fruity tion boxes for us. Paul is now making miniatures plus the Michael nose and a smoky finish. his services available to anyone who Jackson tasting video—free! Our DUFFTOWN 15yo, typically Speyside in wishes to impress a friend or client. Our offer is only open between July and character with a delicate, fragrant, boxes shown above have our logo laser- September to UK mail order customers. almost flowery aroma and taste which etched and the result is outstanding. The Classic Six range is selected from lingers on the palate. A custom label and one of Paul’s boxes their huge portfolio as six of the best ex- GLENDULLAN 12yo, a firm, mellow with your logo laser-etched can cost less amples of the typical regional styles. single malt with a fruity bouquet and a than a 12yo malt— a worthwhile way to Pictured on page 4, they are: smooth lingering finish. really impress. GLENKINCHIE 10yo, the smokiest of GLENLOSSIE 10yo, The three spirit ...AND CUSTOM LABELS Lowland malts. A pre-dinner malt, it has stills at the distillery have purifiers in- a light delicate nose, clean aroma and stalled between the lyne arm and the A very popular way of solving ‘special’ pale colour. The taste is smooth and condenser. This has a bearing on the present problems, our custom label pleasing with a hint of dryness. character. A fresh, grassy aroma and a service provides a special label to your DALWHINNIE 15yo, Highland, light smooth lingering flavour. specification for only £ 2.50 extra. with a fruity sweet aroma. Very easy to INCHGOWER. 14yo, one of the most drink. distinctive in Speyside. It is a malt for CRAGGANMORE 12yo, Speyside. The the discerning drinker—a complex perfect after dinner malt with a good aroma precedes a fruity, spicy taste with firm body and malty smoky finish. a hint of salt. OBAN 14yo, West Highland, an excel- LINKWOOD 12yo, one of the finest lent all round malt. A fresh delicate hint single malts available—full bodied with of peat, and a long smooth finish. a hint of sweetness and a slightly smoky TALISKER 10yo, Isle of Skye. Full fla- aroma. voured with a distinctive peaty base, it MANNOCHMORE 12yo, a light fruity explodes on the palate and lingers on. aroma and a smooth, LAGAVULIN 16yo. Probably the most mellow taste. pungent Islay malt, distinctive and MORTLACH 16yo, robust with a heavy, powerful aroma. A delightful, smooth RARE MALTS SELECTION malt to be sipped and savoured. and fruity. We asked Michael Jackson if he had PITTYVAICH 12yo, tried UD’s Rare Malts Selection. So far SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW a perfumed, fruity there are four limited bottlings from is free to all bona fide mail order nose and a robust their stocks of long-gone distilleries. customers. If you have not bought by flavour with a hint of MJ’s comments included: “syrupy body, mail order from the last (Autumn) spiciness. toffee, candy and exotic fruit” from the catalogue and do not buy from the ac- Islay St. Magdalene; “a nose of cachous and companying (Spring) list then we will CAOL ILA 15yo, vanilla in the Dallas Dhu—best after not be troubling you again. unusual for an Islay dinner”. Millburn’s “for a book in front Malt. Has a fresh of a log fire” and of the wonderful Brora PLEASE TELL YOUR aroma and a light yet “peaty, oily, seaweed aroma—a smoky, well rounded flavour salty, oaky palate and medicinal finish.” FRIENDS ABOUT US! with a tremendous Order soon, as stocks are very limited. ©1995 LOCH FYNE WHISKIES finish. PAGE 8 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD