SEPT WHAT’S ON 2013 HAVANA !

Back to school? Time for one last party…

V Festival A sugar of a The ultimate Leo Brouwer journey guide to de Música de by Christopher The Agro Cámara Baker by Conner Gorry Sept 24-Oct 13 p 3 p 25 p 33 PRODUCED BY .COM .COM

Cuba Absolutely is an independent platform, which seeks to showcase the best in Cuba culture, life-style, sport, travel and much more... we seek to explore Cuba through the eyes of the best writers, photographers and filmmakers, both Cuban and international, who live work, travel and play in Cuba. Beautiful pictures, great videos, opinionated reviews, insightful articles and inside tips.

ALL ABOUT CUBA, ALL THE TIME HIGHLIGHTS HAVANA RESTAURANT GUIDE We have reviewed over 150 places to eat in Havana from the coolest new paladar to the old favorites. Check out. The Ultimate Guide to Dining out in Havana.

Like us on Facebook for Over 100 videos including Follow us on Twitter for beautiful images, links to interviews with Cuba’s best regular updates of new interesting articles and regular artists, dancers, musicians, content, reviewa, comments updates. writers and directors. and more.

OUR CONTRIBUTORS We are deeply indebted and extremely grateful to all of the writers and photograohers who have shared their work with us. We always welcome new contributors and would love hear from you if you have developed a Cuba-related project, idea, photo series or article. You can contact us at [email protected] recommends these Travel Providers for US visitors to Cuba

Witness Cuba on routes less traveled. Meet the people. Experience their culture. Learn their history.

Organizing innovative cultural tours off the beaten track for more than 25 years

Discover Cuba's art, architecture and culture during an exciting people-to- people travel program.

Bringing people together through travel

Music, dance and cultural trips to Cuba

PRODUCED BY .COM recommends these European Travel Providers for independent travel to Cuba

The largest independent travel company specialized in Cuba

Everything and everywhere in Cuba

Bespoke Luxury Holidays in Cuba for the discerning traveler

Leading provider of cycling tours through Cuba with over 15 years experience

For the sophisticated traveller, tailor-made, with style and the individual touch

WOWcuba: discovery Cuba inner beauty

PRODUCED BY .COM page 2 WHAT’S ON HAVANA W ! HAT’S ON HAV SEPTEMBER 2013 ANA Cuba may not celebrate Labor Day to mark the end of summer but there is always time ! for one last party before school starts. In fact this August has seen more concerts, festivals and other events then I can remember. Event promoters, Saroa and Proyecto Analógica have taken the electronic dance music scene to a whole new level. Viva la Habana Fárandula.

While September may be a relatively quiet month in Cuba as Cubans get back to work, tourists largely steer clear of the muggy hurricane season and there are few prestigious cultural festivals, don’t make the mistake to assuming that there is nothing interesting happening this month.

Lovers of classical music shouldn’t miss the prestigious V Leo Brouwer classical music festival, (Sep 24th to Oct 13th). Elsewhere look out for the always-innovative modern dance Compañía Rosario Cárdenas performing Tributo a El Monte and the brilliant Monse Duany in Las lágrimas no hacen ruido al caer. And, between you and me, I am sure the texts announcing the next hip party will keep on coming!

We are delighted to welcome Christopher Baker onboard who takes us on a Sugar of a Journey on the anachronistic Hershey electric train. Welcome back to Conner Gorry with her authoriative Guide to the Havana Agro and a big thumbs up to Cuba Libro (Havana’s 1st English-Language Bookstore & Café), which a month in, is going strong. Cover photo by Ivan Soca We hope you enjoy this review. Any feedback and/or notices about events are always appreciated. You can contact us at [email protected]

PLASTIC PHOTO- DANCE ARTS GRAPHY The Rosario Cárdenas Stainless Exhibition by Company innovative art Chilean Fernando Tributo a group at Sierra Morande El Monte del Rosario art p 9 p 12 gallery p 8

MUSIC PERFORMING OTHER The 5th ARTS EVENTS IN Leo Brouwer Las lagrimas no HAVANA p 28 Chamber Music hacen ruido al OTHER Festival caer, featuring AROUND p 25 Monse Duany CUBA p 30 p 26 FOR KIDS p 29

The best bars & clubs in Havana p 31 HAVANA The best place to eat in Havana p 32 Conner Gorry’s Ultimate guide to The Agro p 33 GUIDE Directory / Address book p 36

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com A sugar of a journey by Christopher P. Baker Photos by Christopher P. Baker ©

You may never arrive. There will be delays. But a journey antique two-tone-green Sarría electrified cars from 1944, on the anachronistic and creaky old Hershey electric train donated by the city of Barcelona. is worth every centavo of the CUC2.80 that foreigners are charged. Even if you don't make it all the way to Matanzas. I recall my first journey with fondness. It was a sugar of a journey—a combination of the picturesque and the Rail journeys hold a particular magic, none more so in prosaic—despite the lack of steam rising sibilantly Cuba than the “Hershey Train,” which runs lazily—too lazily between giant piston rods. I began, as passengers still do, at times—between Casablanca and Matanzas year-round, by hopping onto the funky ferry that chugs across Havana three times a day. harbor to Casablanca from the Muelle de Luz wharf, opposite the Russian Orthodox church, on Avenida del The train has its origins in a chocolate bar and was born Puerto. when Cuba was on a sugar high. “What time do we arrive Matanzas?” I asked, naively. The Before the Revolution, the Hershey estates belonging to woman at the ticket counter merely shrugged her the Pennsylvania-based chocolate company occupied 69 shoulders, then closed her eyes and gave me a sideways square miles of lush cane-fields around a modern sugar- sour lemon look. factory town, or batey, named Hershey, founded in 1918 with a sugar mill, baseball field, golf course, movie theater, Arrival is never guaranteed. Nor is departure! Mechanical a hotel, and an orphanage—an expression of one of the failure is common. Loose tracks. Pantographs that come many good deeds of enlightened industrialist Milton unloose. Substation shorts. The mainline train is Hershey. The mill closed in 2002 after 86 years in sometimes even rerouted to complete trips via branch operation and Hershey is now a run-down shell, named lines that connect to Guanabo, Canasi, and Santa Cruz del since the Revolution for comandante Camilo Cienfuegos. Norte. Sometimes the breakdowns can last days or weeks, when “No train service until further notice” is scrawled At its peak, the estate near Santa Cruz del Norte had 140 onto ticket office chalk-boards. kilometers of rail network. Operating on coal and oil, the original steam locomotives were expensive and their The gold-leaf lettering on the two rusted carriages had sparks constituted a serious fire hazard. In 1921 they were long since faded, as had the exterior green-and-beige replaced with seven 60-ton General Electric locomotives itself, and the hard wooden seats, many broken, were built especially for the Hershey-Cuban Railroad, which guaranteed to turn the most inured ass to stone. linked the estate to the port in Havana—the only electrified system ever built in Cuba. Milton Hershey also The conductor tooted the horn two minutes before introduced a three-car Brill electric passenger train departure and a mad rush to board ensued. The train service between Havana and Matanzas, operating every jolted to life. As we gathered speed slowly, stragglers hour, to serve his workers. jumped aboard, like hobos hopping freight. Some even jumped up into the operator's cab. The vermilion Brill engine, which looked like it could have fallen from the pages of a story about Thomas, the little Soon we were creaking along the harborfront with the "live" engine, was retired in 1998 and replaced with eight pantographs singing merrily overhead and the rhythmic rattling of the rails beneath, interspersed with a frequent Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 3 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! Stopping at places whose names themselves appeared from a dream: Concuní, Corral Nuevo, Dos Mangos.

The conductor displayed a laid back approach to protocol or schedule. He stopped wherever and whenever passengers requested, just like an almendrón—the beat- up old classic taxis that jug along Havana's streets. Passengers alight via a thin metal staircase directly onto the track. No need to mind the gap with a platform.

We juddered to a halt in the middle of nowhere in front of a simple thatch-and-adobe bohío framed by flame-red bougainvillea beneath a tousled Royal palm. I thought the train had broken down. Then a young woman stepped down from the train clutching a newborn child swaddled in blankets. A sun-baked guajiro in tattered straw hat and faded army fatigues pulled himself up from an Adirondack jolt that made the train shudder. Clickety clack, clickety chair beneath the shady eave and emerged into the harsh clack, clickety clack… KLUNK! Cuban sunlight. He strode forward unsteadily, beaming, his arms outspread as if to embrace all the world. The door remained open, providing plenty of breeze, as the locomotive wobbled drunkenly down the track past The whole train looked on as he leaned forward to kiss his rusting refineries and factories and finally into the open granddaughter. She in turn reached down to kiss her countryside. Juan, the engineer, liked to let loose on the young brother, who came hauling up the dusty lane as fast horn as we approached countless crossings where horse- as his long flying legs could carry him. Then the old man drawn buggies, cowboys, and old Chevys idled. Always the reached out and tenderly took the cocooned baby in his Chevys! Guajiros—country folk—stopped their farm toil to rough laborer's hands. Tears fell as he took his first look at watch us pass. his grandchild.

A young man, José, strummed guitar while his partner, a After a mesmerizing four-hour, 92-kilometer journey and lovely 17-year-old girl named Annie, hummed honey- scores of stops, you finally arrive at the Versalles station in sweet melodies, sotto voce. Matanzas. If you're lucky.

“Sing it!” chimed an old lady sitting opposite. The train departs the Estación de Casablanca (Carretera de los Cocos, tel. 07/862-4888), on the north side of Havana harbor at So she did. Belting out a love song—“De donde viene el 4:45 am, 12:21 pm, and 4:35 pm. Tickets (CUC1.40 to Hershey; CUC2.80 to Matanzas) go on sale one hour before departure. amor”—that silenced the entire carriage until it erupted into applause. The original 1927 General Electric trolley-train still runs on Sundays on half-day tourist excursions that include a rustic lunch A guajiro broke out a dirty bottle of aguardiente—cheap at Hershey, a farm stop, and a live salsa band to kick you into party sugarcane liquor—and passed it around. Even a mode. Contact Cuba Real Tours, Edificio Bacardí #404, disconsolate looking policeman took a swig, while Monserrate #261, Habana Vieja, tel. 07/866-4251, schoolkids too young to be flirting flirted. www.transhershey.com. Continue to read full article + slideshow Two hours into the journey, we arrived at the eggshell blue station still bearing the Hershey sign on the wall. We stopped just long enough to hop down and snap a few shots for posterity before the train groaned into action again.

The train wound in and out among palm-studded hills, sped along the coast within sight of the steel-blue Atlantic, then slipped past swathes of sugarcane as the magnificent Yumurí Valley heaved into view.

We journeyed the quintessential Cuban way, in stop-and- go staccato fashion. Journeying back in time, as it were. Pitching unnervingly at times, like a boat in a storm. Christopher P. Baker travel writer / photographer / moto-journalist / Cuba expert tel 760-327-9879 | cel 760-285-9827 | [email protected] | www.christopherpbaker.com Lowell Thomas Award 2008 Travel Journalist of the Year Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 4 WHAT’S ON HAVANA !

Calle 24 @ Calle 19 El Vedado 830-5205

effort and expense (sending this 1-pound book cost $16) to Cuba (Libro) Va! support Cuba Libro. Next time you're in Havana, the coffee By Conner Gorry is on us!

Just a month in and Cuba Libro – 'the islands first English- Yesterday, as we told some friends about all the exciting language bookstore – is proving a wild ride. Quite like things afoot, they said, 'Cuba Libro has some kind of angel Cuba itself, it's chaotic and fun; full of daily randomness watching over it.' Actually, we have three and everyone like blackouts, fumigation, and marriage proposals; who has come in so far has felt them in one way or another. receiving limitless solidarity from family, friends, and Angels, magic, mana, aloha – whatever you call it, we've strangers; and is a precipitous, perennial learning curve – got it, not unlike Cuba itself. Cubans are crazy for cappuccino for instance and there's Follow Cuba Libro developments at our FaceBook page huge demand for music magazines. (https://www.facebook.com/cubalibrohav) and on Twitter @cubalibrohavana. A day doesn't go by without interesting people dropping in, from DJs and doctors to ambassadors and world Continue to read full article + slideshow travelers, and novel experiences are always unfolding or just about to. Already we've scheduled art shows through January with magnificent exhibits by local artists of drawings, graffiti, even puppets and tapestries, plus the water bottle refill service is catching on.

Cuba Libro has also sparked a fury of donations from people living here and others who wished they did; we're happy to report that our public has very good taste. The most recent acquisitions include George Eliot and James Joyce, Steinbeck, Stendhal and yes, Our Man in Havana. And just the other day, as we sipped our espressos in the garden with a Cuban philosophy professor, something extraordinary (and historic) happened: a gentleman rode up to our door on a bicycle, extracted a padded manila envelope from his satchel and delivered our first donation sent through the US, and received by the Cuban postal services. It was postmarked August 13, from Northfield, Illinois, and was placed in our hands on August 27th. Big ups to author Libby Fischer Hellmann for going to the Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 6 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! ART

Galería La Acacia THROUGH NOVEMBER

Mariano en contemporáneo is an exhibition of 41 drawings by the Cuban painter Mariano Rodríguez (1912-1990), one of the most important artists of the so-called Havana School. art.

!

Centro de Arte Contemporáneo Wifredo Lam Through November

Memorias de la obsolescencia is a selection of videos from the Ella Fontanals-Cisneros Collection with works by artists of different nationalities and styles dating from the beginnings of this manifestation to the present day, including Mariana Abramovic, Francys Alÿs, Magdalena Fernández, Ana Mendieta, Song Dong, Cao Fei, Jimmie Durham, Miguel Ángel Ríos and Francesca Woodman. Special emphasis is made on Latin American contemporary art. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 7 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! ART MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES. CENTRO HISPANO AMERICANO DE CULTURA

Sep 3, 3pm Premiere of Mariano, film by Opens Sep 20 The diversity of techniques, Edificio de Arte Tony Lechuga, with the themes and aesthetics has Cubano testimonies of experts involved characterized the Ceramics in the organization of the Biennial and contributed to exhibition Mariano Rodríguez: revitalize the interest in this vuelo y arraigo held this past art. This year's competition will January at the Museum of Fine focus on vessels (sets and Arts as a tribute on the installations), panels and tiles. centenary of one of the most In addition to the competition, significant Cuban artists of the an exhibition of the work of 20th century. ceramist Fernando Velázquez Torres, prizewinner at previous Ceramic Biennials, will be held. Through Sep 16 Almacenes Afuera allows Edificio de Arte visitors to the museum to see FACTORÍA HABANA Cubano over 150 pieces from colonial times to the present from the D'DISEGNO. Respuesta cubana! museum's collections that have Opens Sep 20 is a collection of pieces by never been out of the vaults artists involved in artistic before. design: Adriana Arronte, Marlén Castellanos, DeKuba, Daniel GALERÍA SERVANDO DeMilán, Liliam Dooley, Mayelín Guevara, Gabriel Lara (Gabo), Opens Sep 6 Spin en Cuba-Appaloosa, show Celia Ledón, Octavio César by artist Glauber Ballestero. Marín, Gean Moreno, Fabián Muñoz, Ernesto Oroza, Nelson Ponce, Luis Ramírez, Yimit VITRINA DE VALONIA Ramírez, Roberto Ramos, Idania del Río, Edel Rodríguez (Mola), Opens Sep 18 Selección natural, by Ana Iris Jorge Rodríguez (R10), Eduardo Texidor, who based on the style Sarmiento, Eric Silva, José of Japanese manga, depicts Ángel Toirac, Raúl Valdés peculiarities of urban tribes (Raupa) and Arantza Vilas. which may nullify individualities.

Stainless, Sierra del Rosario art gallery

This creative group made up of artists Alejandro Piñeiro and Roberto Fabelo Hung, young graduates of the San Alejandro Fine Arts Academy, who go by the name of Stainless, exhibit a sample of their work at the brand new Sierra del Rosario art gallery. For the critic Nelson Herrera Ysla, "the results [of their work] are so attractive that the viewer is often tempted to touch the pieces and the materials used, and delight in them with both hands and eyes...They are artists of the here and now, situated amidst a changing Cuban reality, and who, free of prejudices, assume new languages or traditional ones from the extraordinary legacy of the 20th century.

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 8 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! PHOTOGRAPHY

Al fin… el mar SALA DE LA DIVERSIDAD THROUGH SEPTEMBER 21

Al fin…el mar is an exhibition of submarine photographs, most of which have never been shown before, taken from 1963 to 1976 by the mythical Cuban photographer Alberto Korda whose photograph of Che Guevara is famous worldwide.

MI CUBA 2008-2012 CASA OSWALDO GUAYASAMÍN OPENS SEP 17

Exhibition by Chilean Fernando Morandé of 30 black and white photographs that reflect a poetic view of different cities of the eastern part of Cuba.

FOTOTECA DE CUBA PALACIO DE LOMBILLO

Through OBRAS CONTEMPORÁNEAS Opens Sep 12 INVENTARIO ÍNTIMO An exhibition of some of the Architect and photographer September 21 most important photographs María Eugenia López Show from the Fototeca's collection exhibits 18 small and medium- by contemporary artists. sized pictures created through digital printing.

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 9 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! PHOTOGRAPHY

Eduardo Hernández Santos: Poignant, controversial, brilliant by Ricardo Alberto

Born in Havana in 1966, Eduardo Hernández Santos is one Thus, the bodies depicted in his photographs entered a of the most controversial Cuban photographers and state of revelation, wholesome bodies, ready, cut like printmakers of the generation of the 1990s. A pioneer of the fruits or vegetables in order to provocatively enhance the gay theme in photography in Cuba, his work stands out for most crucial aspects of their beauty. the boldness with which he addresses some of the dilemmas faced by this sector of society. Santos at times has resorted to photo-collage, a medium which, according to Santos, gives him access to During the 1990s, a group of Cuban artists burst in and simultaneity, juxtaposition, overlapping, and particularly expanded photography in Cuba away from solely deconstruction, which has become a powerful weapon for documentary value. Born in Havana in 1966, Eduardo him. All this is triggered by the seduction of being able to Hernández Santos is one of the most controversial confer new meanings to things, to passionately take them members of this generation who has provided a legitimate apart only to reconstruct them from an intelligent voice with authenticity, devotion and pain that cannot be perspective. Used responsibly by Eduardo during the last feigned. In more than 20 years of photography and decade, photo collage experienced a profound moment printmaking, Eduardo Hernández Santos has challenged for creative intervention in his Fragmentos clásicos Cuba's post-Revolution iconography. His work celebrates [Classic Fragments] (1998), in which the bodies of the male beauty and openly discusses homosexuality and models are cut out from their original habitat and transgenderism. relocated-clearly expressed in the title of the series-in classical scenarios that never tire of evoking the splendor For Hernández Santos (a graduate of the San Alejandro Art of an increasingly distant antiquity. Academy in 1985 and of the Higher Institute of Art in 1990), the fact that he chose photography as the vehicle to The 21st century surprised the artist in the process of express his views does not respond to superficial matters, creating a wonderful series: A propósito, las flores [By the but is rather the result of having grasped the potential of way, flowers] (2000). Each photographic composition photography, not only for its capacity to document reality, reminds me of a written text. Each area of the body and but also for its immediacy, dealing an accurate blow and each part of the flower question each other like voices creating a stronger and more direct impression, which unheard before, now clashing with each other, ultimately involves both the work and the viewer. Santos submerged. The dialogues are sheer friction, energy from Hernández is aware that photography, unlike other the scrapings, interpretations which lie below this artistic manifestations, leaves little room for ambiguity. preconceptual crust that mutilates our freedom to Rather, it is a direct and poignant form of expression, choose. appealing directly to individuals and their institutions. The year 2002 saw the series Corpus-frágile, in which the With the exhibition Homo=Ludens (1993), Eduardo body is no longer intact-how could it be when the range of Hernández Santos imposed upon himself an ambitious the artist is apparently connected to a society that often goal, a thorny and difficult path, but which also heralded a breaks or cracks? They are telluric movements, at times sincere and admirable way of advocating an aesthetic and painful, which longingly recover in the space of their conceptual future under very difficult circumstances. representation. Consequently, we remain in the presence of bodies which have been intervened, metaphorized, and pursued by fragments of a different nature. At this point, Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 10 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! he is harassed, submitted to the pressure of a guilt which is Hernández. Here, the protagonists are clothed, not his, but of his former tormentors who tried to make representing characters typical of Havana's nightlife, him vulnerable, to traverse or stigmatize him seeking to which has changed as much as the nation. El muro is a break his enormous spirit which he continues to exhibit chronicle that exposes this conquered territory from the with pride. In 2004, he exhibited Strong at La Casona very entrails of the beings inscribed within it; a testimony gallery. In these photographs, the violence received by that adheres to a powerful textuality represented here by these bodies and the violence with which they respond is relevant excerpts from Virgilio Piñera's poem La isla en even greater. Here he exhibits a profound humanity, a tear, peso [The Entire Island]. an aggression which transcends the conflict of gender and sexual orientation, and shows us a completely alienated The discomfort and frustrations that our insularity is world that stalks us. capable of generating and the role played by the famous Malecón Wall in all this plot is highlighted in each of Turning back the clock a few years, I would also like to Virgilio's verses, corrosive and agile, ready to make the highlight Espejismos [Mirages] (1999), an extremely images even more unvarnished. It is said that the Malecón disturbing collection of great semantic wealth. Cohabited can be used as a barometer to measure life in Cuba, of our by bitterness and humor in total estrangement, it depicts most direct contact with the horizon, the stretch in the an oneiric atmosphere of tasteful density, initially lavishing city where scandal occurs in the form of a simple silence and later, perhaps, a stream of echoes that were mutation. In these cubicles recreated from delirium, there once powerful sounds of languages lost in the environs of is no place for one or another decree, or for dubious dreams and wakefulness. institutional tolerance. What persists behind every picture is the “damned circumstance of being surrounded The project El muro [The Wall] (2005) can be construed as by water.” a moment of true splendor in the work of Santos Continue to read full article + slideshow

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 11 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! DANCE BALLET BALLET NACIONAL DE CUBA SALA AVELLANEDA. TEATRO NACIONAL SEP 14, 8PM; 15, 5PM

Concert program: En las sombras de un vals (choreography by Alicia Alonso, music by Josef Strauss); Yo, Tú, Él, Ella (choreography by Regina Hernández, music by Alexia Moore); Me asfixia (choreography by Maysabel Pintado, music by Denis Peralta); Contraconcerto (choreography by Eduardo Blanco, music by Edvard Grieg); Diálogo a 4 (choreography by Alicia Alonso, music by Ignacio Cervantes); Retrato (choreography by Lyvan Verdecia, music by Yan Tiersen-Zoe Keanting) and Majísimo (choreography by Jorge García, music by Jules Massenet).

DRACULA SALA AVELLANEDA. TEATRO NACIONAL SEPTEMBER 6-8, 8:30 PM

The Laura Alonso Ballet presents its well-liked version of Dracula, a love story whose roots go back to the 15th century yet still haunts us today.

TRIBUTO A EL MONTE TEATRO MELLA SEP 6-7, 8:30PM; 8, 5PM

The Rosario Cárdenas Company premieres Tributo a El Monte, a tribute to Cuban anthropologist Lydia Cabrera. The one-hour show combines dance with film scenes and the performances of the rap group Fuera de Norma and DJ Iván Lejardi. Music by Juan Piñera. EL BALLET ESPAÑOL DE CUBA SALA AVELLANEDA. TEATRO NACIONAL 20-22 DE SEPTIEMBRE, 8:30 P.M.; 23, 5:00 P.M.

El Ballet Español de Cuba presentará Iluminados por la danza, con coreografías de bailarines españoles y de Eduardo Veitía, director de la compañía. El programa anuncia dos estrenos: Sonata, del joven bailarín español Pablo Egea, del Ballet Nacional de España, en el que debutarán como solistas las bailarinas Rachel Escalona y María Batule, y Soleá por bulerías, del propio Egea, interpretado por toda la compañía. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 12 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! DANCE Photos by Alexander Mene ©

The longest rumba in the world at Timbalaye 2013 by John Waterhouse

V ENCUENTRO RUMBA CUBANA way of life, a philosophy that contains a mystique connected to religions and affiliations. It does not need TIMBALAYE 2013 specific instruments--the clapping of hands is enough to get a rumba going. For the people in the neighborhoods The International Cuban Rumba Festival took place at and in the streets, rumba is suited to their lives, to their various locations in Havana and Matanzas last month emotions. (August 2013) and despite several soakings from the inclement weather, it served as a great showcase for And this is what Timbalaye, a yoruba word that refers to rumba as popular culture and not just a historical feasible dreams and projects, is all about. Timbalaye 2013 idiosyncrasy. included seminars on salsa, rumba and Afro-Cuban dances; courses on singing and percussion; lectures on “At first, Cuban rumba smelled of solares, black people, music and anthropology; Cuban popular dance sugar-cane syrup, wooden boxes and drums. Today, the competitions; theatre and dance performances; and the aroma is different, but it maintains the mixed-race beat presentation of the Fernando Ortiz-Timbalaye Prizes to that defines us, the Caribbean sensuality that sets us apart the best rumba group, singer, dancer and conga player of and the irreverent party spirit that marked its birth over the event as well as the best essay on Cuban rumba. 200 years ago.” Sponsored by the AHS, the Union of Writers and Artists of Cuba and the Fernando Ortiz Foundation, Timbalaye also Rumba is one of the most authentic manifestations in honored one of the great exponents of the rumba, Cuban culture. Widely popular and 100% Cuban, it was Gonzalo Ascencio, known as Uncle Tom. born as a process of hybridization of elements of different origins, in which the legacy of African cultures played a Events took place in Casa de la Cultura Habana (see predominant role while it exhibited significant Spanish pictures above), The America Theatre, the Cuba Pavilion, components. It emerged in Cuba in the late 19th century, the Salón Rosado (La Tropical) and the Rumba Palace. and developed after the abolition of slavery. More than a music and dance representation, rumba is a Continue to read full article + slideshow

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 13 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC CONTEMPORARY FUSION & ELECTRONIC

The contemporary fusion and electronic music scene has fragmented somewhat over recent months as new bars and clubs have opened and a number of promoters of one off parties have established themselves. While we have made a few suggestions and reviewed some of last month's best parties really you will simply have to keep your ear to the ground and try and get and get on the text list. We will post on our facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Cuba- Absolutely/117958641550184 details when we have them.

CAFÉ CANTANTE MI HABANA. TEATRO NACIONAL CENTRO CULTURAL FRESA Y CHOCOLATE

Tuesdays, 5pm Golden performances by Mon, 10:30pm Dj Wichy del Vedado, uno de Descemer Bueno, Kelvis Ochoa los más famosos Djs de La and David Torrens Habana, con lo mejor de música World. Wednesdays, Performances by the popular 5pm band Qva Libre PIANO BAR DELIRIO HABANERO

Thursdays, 4pm Performances by Tammy and CAFÉ LA RAMPA Pura Cepa

Thursdays 10pm Wichy D´Vedado, one of the most famous DJs in Havana, CASA DE LA MÚSICA DE MIRAMAR who plays the best of world music. Fridays, 5pm With Son as the foundation of their music, the band Klimax, directed by Giraldo Piloto, incorporates elements from jazz, pop, rap, punk, and Caribbean rhythms.

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 14 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC

Dj Turcios is in the house at Bar Somavilla by Eduard Marble

American Dj Derek Turcios, a young exponent of the “new Tommie, Chus y Ceballos, The Low End Specialists and DJ sound of New York,” visited Cuba for the first time this past Icey, among others. Linked to the new wave of electronic August, 2013. As part of his three-day tour of the city, he music in the US, he has been defined by critics as an played at the Somavilla, a new private restaurant-bar in a energetic musician who establishes an incredible Vedado penthouse, with Djoy de Cuba and Bjoyce under connection with his audiences. the auspices of Analógica Project. The Cuban DJs opened for Turcios, who kept the party going for an audience DJ Turcios's open, heterodox and multiethnic philosophy “with a very genuine energy” from midnight to shortly of electronic music is shown in the way he incorporates before 7:00 am. Although DJ Turcios had never played in different rhythms. An example of this is his piece Tambor Cuba before, he said he felt at home and that it was “an de Yemayá, which successfully mixes electronic music experience definitely worth repeating.” with the legends of Afro-Cuban tradition.

DJ Turcios's work is considered eclectic and is acclaimed Havana rocked to the beat of DJ Turcio's music for three both in clubs and at raves. He is one of those DJs that know days, and it will surely happen again on his next visit to how to work the audience. He has participated in some of Cuba. He is now friends with the Cuban people and that's a the most important electronic music festivals worldwide bond that will only grow stronger. and has shared the stage with Max Graham, Satoshi Continue to read full article + slideshow

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 15 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC

Back to school party at Jardines de la Tropical with Sarao by Sophia Beckman

If you want a high-octane party full of 'real' Cuban young Lejardi, a self-taught techno artist and producer as well as people, then try and find out when the next Sarao party is. tireless promoter of electronic music through a Sarao is the name for a Cuban party-promoting group combination of audio and visual arts, graphic design and who are currently putting together some of the best diverse forms of Cuban contemporary art; and DJ Obi, parties in Havana. My favorite during August was held at who prefers minimal techno and tech house. the Jardines de la Tropical and featured an energy and life hard to keep up with. Pulsating electronic dance music Back to school, maybe-but don't expect the parties to until the early hours of the following morning. stop!

A number of producers and techno artists are responsible Opens: 8pm for the creation of Sarao. Dj Ra, originally a hip-hop artist Admission fee: 20.00 MN who successfully transitioned to electronic music, was the Jardines de La Tropical mastermind behind the Sarao Project, which first saw the Calle Rizo y Final, Puentes Grandes. Marianao. light at the Jardines de la Tropical in 2009. Other techno musicians involved in Sarao from its beginnings are Iván Continue to read full article + slideshow

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 16 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC

Café Jazz Miramar (cine Miramar ), Calle 5ta Esquina A 94, Miramar Playa. Opens 2pm - Shows: 10:30pm - 2 Am - Cover: 50.00 Mn Or Cuc 2.00

This new jazz club has quickly established itself as one of the very best places to hear some of Cuba's best musicians jamming. Forget about smoke filled lounges, this is clean, bright – take the fags outside. While it is difficult to get the exact schedule and in any case expect a high level of improvisiation when it is good it is very good. A full house is something of a mixed house since on occasion you will feel like holding up your own silence please sign! Nonetheless it gets the thumbs up from us.

PROGRAM Sept 15 Domingo Joven, con jóvenes jazzistas Sept 4 Sarao Jazz Sept 17 David Faya (contrabajista) y su Sept 5 Héctor Quintana (guitarrista) y grupo Camino de Santiago su banda

Sept 18 Sara Jazz Sept 6 Carlos Miyares (saxofonista) y su grupo Sept 19 Jam Session con Carlos Miyares (saxofonista) e invitados Sept 7 Roberto Carcassés (pianista y compositor), su trío e invitados Sept 20 Aldo López-Gavilán (pianista y compositor) y su banda Sept 8 Jam por Oshun, con Julito Padrón (trompetista), Santa Amalia Friend´s e invitados Sept 21 Roberto Carcassés (pianista y compositor), su trío e invitados Sept 10 Yadasny Portillo (pianista y compositor) y el grupo Cauce Sept 22 Voces del Jazz: Emir Santacruz (clarinetista y saxofonista) con su banda y cantantes invitadas Sept 11 Sarao Jazz David Alfaro (pianista), su banda Sept 12 Pablo Menéndez (guitarrista y Sept 24 compositor) y su grupo Mezcla e invitados

Sept 25 Sarao Jazz Sept 13 Sexto Sentido (cuarteto vocal femenino) Sept 26 Sexto Sentido (cuarteto vocal femenino) Sept 14 Roberto Carcassés (pianista y compositor), su trío e invitados Sept 27 Roberto Carcassés (pianista y compositor), su trío e invitados HURÓN AZUL, UNEAC

Sep 12, 2pm Peña La Esquina del Jazz, hosted by showman Bobby Carcassés.

CASA DEL ALBA CAFÉ JAZZ MIRAMAR

Sep 14, 8pm Ruy López-Nussa Saturdays, 11pm Regular shows with Roberto (percussionist) and La Carcassés, pianist and composer Academia. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 17 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC JAZZ

Roberto Fonseca & 'Yo' at Teatro Mella By Luica Lamadrid

Fonseca refuses his music to be pigeonholed as Afro- After a successful tour around Europe to promote his Cuban jazz or Latin jazz. “My music is open,” he explains, latest album, Yo, this past August, Roberto Fonseca and pointing out influences of rock, soul, classical music (to the band Temperamento presented the album in Cuba which he is devoted), pop, rap, traditional Cuban country with a concert at the Mella Theater in Havana, where music, and Afro-Cuban music. “I do not think of myself as a people crowded to see Fonseca reunited with jazz player but rather a romantic musician, who expresses Temperamento once again. The concert lived up to the what he feels through the piano,” he says. On stage, audience's expectations and drew standing ovations from dressed in exclusive wardrobes designed by French an audience that demanded nothing but the best from the designer Agnès B., he has played with famous musicians musicians-Fonseca's virtuosity and natural magnetism; such as Bebo and Chucho Valdés, Herbie Hancock, Javier Zalba's mastery of the sax, the clarinet and Michael Brecker and Wayne Shorter. whatever wind instrument you may think of; Chicoy's and Ramsés 'Dinamita' Rodríguez's stunning performances at Roberto Fonseca is one of most brilliant jazz musicians to the guitar and drums, respectively; and the talents of come out of Cuba. His talent runs through his blood: his guest singer Pedro 'El Nene' Lugo and trumpet player father, Roberto Fonseca Sr., was a drummer and his Roberto García. mother, Mercedes Cortés Alfaro, is a singer. He has two older half-brothers, drummer Emilio Valdés and the Additionally, this was the first concert in which Fonseca pianist Jesús “Chuchito” Valdés Jr. from his mother's included a dance act. With a superb choreography by previous marriage to none other than the legendary jazz Eduardo Blanco, the piece chosen for the successful pianist Chucho Valdés. At age four, Fonseca started out experiment was “Danza del Espíritu” (Dance of the Spirit). playing drums but eventually switched to piano and stuck Also, a tribute was paid to the Cuban actress and singer with it. He was only 15 years old when he astonished the Rita Montaner on her 113 anniversary when, radio in hand, crowds at Havana's “Jazz Plaza” Festival in 1991. A really Fonseca sat on the edge of the stage listening to Rita's bad student when he was younger, as Fonseca has most well-known song: El manisero (The Peanut Vendor). admittedly said, he now holds a master's degree in composition from the prestigious University of Arts. The concert was also the presentation in Cuba of the Tradicional Project, which is their view of Cuban In his new CD, Yo, the influence of electronic music is traditional music. According to Fonseca, they want to much more noticeable. He changed his usual jazz quintet present this music with new sounds, making their own and experimented with electronic, analog and African versions, which include electronic instruments. They do music. Hammond organs, congas, n'goni, kora and talking not plan to be the second Buena Vista Social Club or a new drums are combined in a synthesis of Afro Cuban groove Buena Vista generation. and Griot tradition. A total of fifteen musician participated in the production of the album Yo, including Roberto Fonseca at the piano triggers strong and musicians Baba Sissoko, Sekou Kouyate, Fatoumata memorable emotions in his audiences. The piano Diawara, Étienne M'Bappé and Munir Hossn, as well as becomes part of his body or he becomes part of the piano. Ramsés Rodríguez and Joel Hierrezuelo, long-time Either way and luckily for us, Fonseca's love affair with the collaborators of Fonseca's. Additionally, singers Assane piano is no secret and he lets us into this intimate part of Mboup from Senegal and Faudel from Algeria, and his life. renowned hip-hop artist Mike Ladd from Australia lent their voices to Fonseca's latest project. Continue to read full article + slideshow

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 18 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC BOLERO, FOLKLORIC, SON & TROVA SANTIAGO FELIÚ

CAFE CANTANTE FRIDAYS, 11 PM

In “Lo que la radio nos dejó” or What the Radio Left Us, singersongwriter Santiago Feliú performs cover versions of Spanish rock and pop music from the 60s and 70s along with American and British rock music that were very much in vogue in Cuba at the time.

CASA DEL ALBA MUSEO NACIONAL DE LA MÚSICA

Sep 6, 8pm With his beautiful and powerful Sep 18, 5pm Concert with singer-songwriter voice, Eduardo Sosa and guests Tony Ávila. perform highlights of the best Cuban trova of all time. CASA BALEAR

CENTRO IBEROAMERICANO DE LA DÉCIMA Sep 20, 5pm Tardes de Boleros, hosted by singer Maureen García. Sep 7, 3pm Performance by the duet Ad Libitum. CAFÉ TEATRO BERTOLT BRECHT

4pm A Bolero Puro, with Rafael Sep 29, 4pm El Jardín de la Gorda with the Sep 27, performances of trovadores Espín and guests. from every generation. CASA MEMORIAL SALVADOR ALLENDE CASA DE LA CULTURA DE PLAZA Sep 27, 6:00 pm Peña La Juntamenta, with trovador Ángel Quintero and Sep 14, 7pm Peña with Marta Campos, guests renowned singer of contemporary songs with a trova feel to them CENTRO CULTURAL PABLO DE LA TORRIENTE BRAU

Sep 28, 5pm A Guitarra Limpia is a meeting HURÓN AZUL, UNEAC with trovadors accompanied only by their guitars. Sep 14, 10pm Mundito González is one of the most popular Cuban bolero singers. MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES

7pm Concert with flamenco singer JARDINES DEL TEATRO MELLA Sep 28, Edificio de Arte Andrés Correa. Cubano Sep 14, 5pm Trova by Jade and her group.

LA PÉRGOLA. MINISTERIO DE CULTURA

Sep 29, 6pm Performances by trovadores Samuel Ávila and Diego Cano

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 19 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC BOLERO, FOLKLORIC, SON & TROVA

ASOCIACIÓN YORUBA DE CUBA CASA DE LA MÚSICA DE MIRAMAR

Fridays, 8:30pm Performance by the folkloric Saturdays, La Utopía combines live group Obiní Batá. 5 pm performances by troubadours, impromptu performances by the audience, and videos of Sundays, 4pm Performance by the folkloric important domestic and group Los Ibellis. international musicians of the past 50 years. ASOCIACIÓN YORUBA DE CUBA CENTRO CULTURAL FRESA Y CHOCOLATE Wednesdays, Performance by Elaín Morales. 11 pm Wednesdays, Musical meeting with young 9pm songstress Milada Milhet. CAFÉ CANTANTE, TEATRO NACIONAL Saturdays, Performance by Yeni 11 pm Performance by Elaín Morales. Thursdays, 10:30pm Sotolongo, a young singer who boasts an exceptional voice and varied repertoire.

4 pm Performance by Waldo Saturdays, 6pm Performances by pop idol Mendoza, one of Cuba's most Sundays, Adrián Berazaín, who combines popular singers today. pop and rock with Cuban song.

CAFÉ CONCERT ADAGIO DIABLO TUN TUN Performances by Maylú, the all- Thursdays, Performance by the singer- 10 pm round singer of the moment, Saturdays, whose repertoire goes from 5 pm songwriter Ihosvany Bernal. arias of famous operas to Cuban, Latin American and JARDINES DEL 1830 international pop hits. Tue & Thu, Performance by one of the PIANO BAR TUN TUN 8:30pm; most popular bands in Cuba, Moncada will play an extensive Tue & Thu, A meeting with Ray Fernández. repertoire of Cuban and Latin Thursdays, 8:30pm 5 pm American music. (Casa de la Música de PIANO BAR DELIRIO HABANERO Miramar) Wednesdays, A get-together with Vocalité 4pm and guests.

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 20 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC RAP, HIP-HOP LA SESIÓN AT DELIRIO HABANERO

TEATRO NACIONAL FRIDAYS, 5PM

Cuba's newest spot for rap lovers, La Sesión includes rap as well as the best DJs in Havana, singers and musicians from other genres as well as visual artists and actors from the stage. Shows are hosted by the Cuban actress Edenis Sanchez and rapper Bárbaro “El urbano” Vargas. La Sesión is sure to become the rap/hip-hop's spot in the Cuban capital.

CANCHA DE COJÍMAR MAQUETA DE LA HABANA

Sep 14 2:00pm Anónimo Consejo and Brebaje Sep 28 5:00pm Hermanazos. Man.

ROCK

CAFÉ CANTANTE, TEATRO NACIONAL CASA DE LA MÚSICA DE MIRAMAR

Sundays Los Kents, a “dinosaur” of Saturdays Performance by the rock band Cuban rock, play their hits from Gens. 4:00pm 5:00pm the 60s and 70s.

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 21 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC ROCK

Brutal Fest's 2013 Cuba festival by John Walters

A festival that insisted on letting the world know that The festival traveled to six other cities (Santa Clara, Cuban music is not only salsa and reggaeton, but also has a Holguín, Camagüey, Pinar del Río, Bayamo and Sancti heavy metal tradition with enthusiastic fans Spíritus) besides Havana, which was very much appreciated by fans everywhere. Brutal Fest takes place twice a year (originally it was done only in February, but because it has been so successful, it Since 2012, Tattoo's Party runs parallel to Brutal Fest and is was done again in August this year) and is the most held at Maxim Rock in Havana, headquarters of the Cuban important international metal music festival in Cuba. It Rock Agency and Brutal Fest. This tattoo convention and consists in a 10-day tour of Cuba with both Cuban and 6-7 contest is organized by Brutal Beatdown Recs, Toy Store international bands. Organized by the French Brutal Producciones and the Cuban Rock Agency and has been Beatdown Record Label in association with the Agencia gaining in popularity ever since. Cubana de Rock (Cuban Rock Agency) and the Instituto Cubano de la Música (Cuban Institute of Music), this year's The event was organized by the French Brutal Beatdown festival included Cuban bands Combat Noise, Dead Point, Record Label with the collaboration of the Cuban Rock Estigma DC, Mephisto, Switch, Metastasys and Agency and the Cuban Institute of Music. It was also Tendencia, plus Mortuary, Cowards and S-Core from sponsored by the Institute Français, the French Embassy in France, Splattered Mermaids from Sweden, Severe from Cuba, Havana Club Internacional, Cuba Autrement and Los Belgium, and Dezaztre Natural from Chile. Portales. Continue to read full article + slideshow

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 22 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC CLASSICAL

BASÍLICA MENOR DE SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS

6:00pm Sep 21 Pianist Huberal Herrera will pay tribute to two outstanding Concert of French music with Sep 7 Cuban composers: Hubert de Frank Ernesto Fernández Blanck and Ernesto Lecuona. (oboe), Karla Martínez (piano), Alejandro Calzadilla (clarinet) and Abraham Castillo (bassoon). Sep 28 The chorus Entrevoces, conducted by Digna Guerra, will offer a program of made up Cuban and Latin American Sep 14 The pianist Ernán López-Nussa and his trio have invited Roberto works and negro spirituals. García (trumpet) and Orlando Sánchez (sax) to play pieces by López-Nussa, Pablo Milanés and Silvio Rodríguez, among other composers.

ORATORIO SAN FELIPE NERI

4:00pm Sep 21 The chamber choir Vocal Leo in concert, conducted by Corina Cuban pianist and composer Sep 7 Campos. Eralys Fernández has invited Brazilian cellist Diego Carneiro to share a recital with works of Sep 28 Espacio Voces Nuevas, dircted her own as well as works by by the soprano and teacher Beethoven, Debussy and Astor María Eugenia Barrios, Piazzolla. showcases rising stars of the Cuban lyrical stage. Sep 14 A selection of zarzuelas and of the opera Marina, by the Spanish composer Emilio Arrieta, in the voice of tenor Ramón Centeno, accompanied by the pianist Vilma Garriga.

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 23 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC CLASSICAL

IGLESIA DE PAULA

5:00pm Sep 20 Bolero vs. Fandango, by the Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble, is The Ars Longa Early Music Sep 13 based on the music in Spain Ensemble, conducted byTeresa during the late 18th and early Paz, have announced the 19th centuries. program Imaginarios sonoros de lo africano en Iberoamérica en Sep 27 Several pieces by the German los siglos XVII y XVIII, based on Baroque composer Georg African sounds in 17th- and Philipp Telemann and Czech 18th-century Ibero-America. composer Jan Dismas Zelenka will be played by musicians of the Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble.

SALA IGNACIO CERVANTES

5:00pm Sep 15 Concert with pianist Manuel Matarrita, trumpet player Juan The pianist Marlon Bordas and Sep 8 Carlos Meza and tenor Ernesto young guest musicians (jazz Rodríguez. trio of piano, bass and drums plus guitar, trombone, trumpet and Cuban percussion) will Sep 22 The D'Accord duo (Vicente offer an interesting program Monterrey, clarinet, and Marita which aims to break with Rodríguez, piano), and the prototypes. Santa Cecilia wind quintet will play overtures and arias by Verdi and Rossini, as well as Concert by pianist Manuel Sep 13 pieces by Grieg, Dvořák, Matarrita, tenor Ernesto Lefebvre, Chausson and Rimski Rodríguez and the Ballet Korsakov. Folclórico de Nicoya.as part of the Costa Rica Cultural Meeting.

CASA DEL ALBA CULTURAL

5:00pm Sep 29 De Nuestra América, a project directed by pianist Alicia Perea. Sep 8 En Confluencia, project directed by Eduardo Martín.

Sep 15 Tarde de Concierto, project directed by the soprano Lucy Provedo.

SALA CHE GUEVARA. CASA DE LAS AMÉRICAS

5:00pm Sep 16 Performance by Costa Rican musicians Edín Solís (guitar), Concert by the Costa Rican Sep 14 Eduardo Martín (guitar), Galy group Edithus, who combine Martín (guitar), Ricardo modern jazz with traditional Ramírez (violin) and Alejandro jazz, new age and classical Martínez (cello). music, Latin American music and technical effects.

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 24 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC CLASSICAL

5th Leo Brouwer Chamber Music Festival

Organized by the Leo Brouwer Office, the 5th Leo The Centro Hispano-Americano de Cultura will show a Brouwer Chamber Music Festival will be held from series of videos on opera from September 25, Mondays, September 24 to October 13, 2013. For the first time, it will Wednesdays and Fridays at 3:00 pm leave Havana and travel to the city of Santiago de Cuba where the splendid Sala Dolores theater has been chosen A special highlight in this year's festival will be the to receive the prestigious Cuban and international participation of guitarist and composer Paco de Lucía. It musicians from September 24-26. Tribute will be paid to has been 26 years since his last performance in Cuba and Cuban composer Harold Gramatges and a lecture will be Brouwer explained that although De Lucía had always given on the rich musical heritage of Santiago de Cuba. longed to return to Cuba, his tight schedule had always The lecture will be illustrated with performances by the kept him from doing so. At 65, Paco de Lucía is considered Orfeón de Santiago and the Orquesta Sinfónica de one of the best guitarists worldwide and has received Oriente. Although the focus of the festival is naturally many awards in his career, including the 2004 Prince of chamber music, the event also includes debates, talks, film Asturias Award. The much acclaimed Spanish musician showings, exhibitions and book, CD and launchings. will receive the 2013 Cubadisco, the most important music award in Cuba. From September 28 to October 13, the festival will be back in Havana. Its organizers have announced the The Cuban composer Leo Brouwer, who has been participation of musicians from ten different countries acknowledged as one of the living geniuses of classical plus over forty world and national premieres. Two music in the international arena, has been, since its exhibitions, Memorias de un Festival (Memories of a inception, the heart and soul of the festival through his Festival), with photographs by Gabriel Guerra Bianchini, supervision and total devotion. With regard to the festival, Iván Soca and Silvio Rodríguez, and En Viaje con Calvino Brouwer has said: “Our policy is not figure-oriented, but (Traveling with Calvino) by Marco Marini, will open at Sala rather repertoire-oriented…We have the privilege of de la Diversidad on September 30, 5:30 pm. The having excellent Cuban musicians and first-rate young exhibitions are a tribute to the renowned Italian author artists performing the best versions that exist in this Italo Calvino, born in Santiago de las Vegas, Cuba, on the regard, perhaps not the only ones, but certainly the best.” 90th anniversary of his birth. Later that same day, at 7:00 Leo Brouwer (Havana, 1939) has created more than 300 pm, Iglesia de Paula has been chosen for the concert musical pieces and is currently the composer of classical Órgano Plus with organist Vincent Bernhardt and double music whose scores are most performed in the world, bassist Victor Soto, along with musicians from Il Delirio according to the SGAE (General Association of Authors Fantástico and the Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble, who and Publishers). will play pieces by Arnolt Schlick, Michelangelo Rossi, Louis Couperin, Dietrich Buxtehude, Johann Sebastian Continue to read full article + slideshow Bach, Antonio Vivaldi and from the Robertsbridge Codex. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 25 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! THEATER & PERFORMING ARTS LAS LÁGRIMAS NO HACEN RUIDO AL CAER

TEATRO DEL EDIFICIO DE ARTE CUBANO. MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES SEPTEMBER 12-14, 7PM

Monse Duany is the legendary Cuban singer Guadalupe Yolí-La Lupe-in the monologue Las lágrimas no hacen ruido al caer by the late playwright Alberto Pedro. Monse Duany is versatility itself: She creates situations of humor and anguish, joy and sadness, understanding and impotence. She sings, dances, recites, dreams, shouts, cries, falls in love, suffers… She is the kind of actress that exudes energy and passion.

SALA TITO JUNCO. CENTRO BERTOLT BRECHT SALA EL SÓTANO

Tue, Wed & Thu Premiere of La paz perpetua, by Fri & Sat 8:30pm Teatro del Silencio presents El Spanish playwright Juan 8:30pm 5:00pm Cerco by Cuban playwright Mayorga, by Compañía del Sun Rubén Sicilia, in which three Cuartel. The play uses irony, Opens Sep 14 characters in a garbage dump mockery and the reproduce universal conflicts, externalization of violence to such as power, oppression, define the individual responsibility in this power/subordination play that is part theater of relationship among the warring cruelty and dirty realism characters

Mefisto Teatro, directed by Fri & Sat 8:30pm; SALA ADOLFO LLAURADÓ Tony Díaz, presents Muerte en 5pm Sun, el bosque, based on a novel by Tue, Wed & Thu, Teatro del Puerto presents this Cuban novelist Leonardo 6:00pm play by the Cuban director and Padura. playwright Abelardo Estorino, directed and performed by TEATRO RAQUEL REVUELTA Milva Benítez Reinoso. The play is a contemporary Fri, Sat & Sun, Teatro D´Dos will be presenting reinterpretation of the classical 8:30pm the 20th-century classic The character of Greek mythology Zoo Story, by American Medea, who carries out a playwright Edward Albee. This dialogue with the visions of one-act play is a heart-rending other playwrights, who hint at tragedy of the consequences of issues of Cuban reality today, intolerance and lack of such as immigration. communication.

Sat & Sun, Delantal todo sucio de huevos, a 6:00pm play by Brazilian playwright Marcos Barbosa and produced by Teatro de Dos, is a half realist, half expressionist portrait of the daily drama that any ordinary family may potentially lead. Here, a traditional family is faced with the return of their son turned into a woman after 20 years of absence from home. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 26 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! THEATER & PERFORMING ARTS

Goldfish: an ironic and irreverent look into reality by Eduard Marble

Goldfish is an ironic and irreverent look into reality. Written by young Cuban playwrights William Ruiz and Alejandro Arango and, produced by Reynier Rodríguez Vázquez and performed by actors from the El Ingenio and Teatro de La Luna companies, the play tells the anecdotal story of Pablo--rootless, pyromaniac, sociopath--who has an almost perverse need to find meaning to his life, a meaning that will go beyond banality and that will also be meaningful to others. And this is done through a TV show.

Reynier Rodríguez Vázquez, who is making his debut with this play, has said that Goldfish depicts a situation that many people are “victims” of, that is, the media tells you what to do, what to say, what to wear… Nobody escapes from this! And what Goldfish does is criticize the negative part of this issue. The stage of the Trianón Theater, or rather, the entire hall, is transformed into a TV set. The play develops as a talk show or reality show, so the audience will see hostess, guests, live music and even commercial breaks, the latter with Cuban flavor. In the style that characterizes the unscrupulous frivolity that is common to these shows, Goldfish aims to deconstruct Pablo and the context in which he lives.

The set design, the wardrobe and the music, which are crucial to this production, have all been perfectly handled. Meanwhile, the cast is perfect in their roles, especially Yordanka Ariosa in the role of the hostess,

Despite some ups and downs in the pace of the play, audiences will find that Goldfish is funny while it analyses serious issues and is well worth seeing

Playing during September 2013 at Sala teatro Trianón Fri & Sat, 8:30pm; Sun, 5pm

Continue to read full article + slideshow Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 27 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! OTHER EVENTS IN HAVANA FESTIVAL DE RADIO Y TELEVISIÓN CUBA 2013 PALACIO DE CONVENCIONES, HAVANA SEP 9-13

The event will include shows, exhibitions, free performances, workshops, master classes, and theoretical meetings. An expo/trade fair will also be held, in which production companies, television channels, radio stations, specialized entities and firms will be able to exhibit and sell equipment, technology, products and other materials related to the theme of the event. An international competition of shows and spots for the public good will also take place during the event. www.rtvfestival.icrt.cu

CASA TOMADA

SEP 17-20 CASA DE LAS AMÉRICAS, HAVANA

This meeting of young Latin American artists and writers aims to foster ties and mutual understanding among young creators up to 40 years of age; encourage and promote different ways of conceiving the past, present and future of artistic and intellectual creation in the continent; and publicize the work of recent generations in the region.

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 28 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! FOR KIDS ! ECOS DE CIRCUBA 2013 THROUGHOUT SEPTEMBER, THU-SUN, 4PM & 7PM CARPA TROMPOLOCO

Cuba's National Circus presents prize-winning acts from the past CIRCUBA 2013 Festival, which includes gymnastics, acrobatics, juggling, tightrope and much more, as well as prizewinners of the Erdwin Fernández In Memoriam International Clown Competition.

Carpa Trompoloco: 5ta. Avenida y 112, Miramar, Playa, Tel: 206 5609

! CASA DE LAS AMÉRICAS SEP 12, 3:30PM

Presentation of Comino vence al diablo and Comino va a la huelga, by Mexican playwright Germán List Arzubide, with performances by puppeteers María Luisa de la Cruz, Ailín Guerra and Annia González.

TEATRO DE TÍTERES EL ARCA Fri, Sat and Sun, 3pm

The El Arca Puppet Theater continues this month with Sueño de una noche de verano based on William Shakespeare's immortal A Midsummer Night's Dream with music by Mendelssohn..

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 29 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! EVENTS IN REST OF CUBA Concurso Naturaleza Digital 2013 SEP 1-6 PROTECTED NATURAL LANDSCAPE, TOPES DE COLLANTES

In an ideal landscape for its rich and unique biodiversity, participating photographers will compete in three categories: Landscape, Flora and Fauna, Man and Nature. Pictures will be taken in foot trails chosen among the participants by drawing lots. The trails are La Batata, Codina, Caburní, Vegas Grandes, El Nicho, Camino de la Barbera, Guanayara, El Cubano, Gruta Nengoa and night tours through trails devoted to amphibians.

www.gaviota-grupo.com

! Festival Matamoros Son 2013 SEP 16-20 TEATRO HEREDIA, SANTIAGO DE CUBA

This festival, which is a tribute to one of the big names of Cuban music, the Santiago de Cuba-native Miguel Matamoros, author of the well-known song Mamá, son de la loma, is a meeting of soloists and bands from all over the island, as well as other countries. Concerts, lectures, dances, workshops, book and CD launches, as well as a Cuban popular dance competition that will include danzón, son, cha-cha-cha, mambo, casino and salsa, will liven up the city, famous for its hospitality.

Fiesta de los Orígenes September Matanzas

Academicians, researchers and historians will get together to discuss aspects related to the formation of Cuban culture. The program includes lectures, panels, art exhibitions, films, passacaglia and book and magazine launchings.

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 30 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! HAVANA’S BEST BARS & CLUBS Sangri-La CALLE 42 Y ESQ. 21, MIRAMAR

Sangri-La was the first in the new wave of bars to open in the summer of 2012 and has become the place to be for the young (and not so young) party goers. This is located in the basement of a Miramar mansion up on 11th Avenue (&42nd street). The crowd that comes here is the same one that will make it to Fontana and Melem later. This is the Havana Farándula. Sangri-La is a little more unpredictable than the others and is probably the most interactive with more of an open plan set up encouraging more mixing. There are boothes all around the outside which make a comfortable place to get snacks (or even a full dinner). I have never been convinced by the food here although the non-smoking rule does at least mean that you can eat without tobacco fumes floating over!

3D BAR El Gato Tuerto Recently opened, smallish place, quite cool Late night place to hear Bolero Malecon entre Paseo y Presidente Calle O, entre 17 y 19, Vedado T. 833 2224 Teatro Bertolt Brecht No se lo digas a nadie Don’t tell anyone! Melem Bar Calle 13, e/I y J, Vedado Young hip crowd – can get smoky T. 830 1354 / 832 9359 1ra y 60, Miramar El Cocinero Privé Lounge Havana’s coolest and best new bar/restaurant (It is never late here) Calle 26, e 11 y 13, Vedado Calle 88A No. 306 e/ 3ra y 3ra A, Miramar, Playa, Playa Don Cangrejo T. 2092719 Friday night party venue for Bar Las Piedras young & beautiful crowd 1ra y 43, Playa Ave. 1ra No. 1606, entre 16 y 18, Miramar (Venue for the after-party) T. 204 5002 Sangri-La Ecaleras al Cielo Young hip crowd, modern basement venue Nightclub attracting a mostly LGBTQ crowd 42 y esq. 21, Miramar 658 Zulueta Street, between Gloria and Apodaca, Old Havana El Sauce T. 863 3009 Open air nightclub – attracts the best Cuban singers Avenida 9na #12015, entre 120 y 130 Espacio T. 204-6428 Hip new bar with valet parking Calle 10, entre 5ta y 31, Miramar Bar Somavilla 15 y H, Vedado La Fontana (Young, hip crowd) South Beach Miami style comes to Havana outside + cozy renovated basement El Tocororo Calle 3ra A, esquina 46, No. 305 Mostly expatriates with Cuban friends, live music Miramar, Havana Calle 18, entre 3ra y 5ta, Miramar T. 202 8337 T. 204 2209 / 202 4530

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 31 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! BEST PLACES TO EAT IN HAVANA Corte del Principe (Sergio's) 9NA ESQ. 74, PLAYA, (53) 7 5-255-9091

Undeniably serving the best pasta in town at present look for the Tagliatelle al funghi porcini/gamberi y zucchine/alla marinara. Unless you get stuck on the starters that are so good you don't even make it to your main course. Just ask Sergio what he recommends today.

Typically busy but not packed there is an atmosphere about the place. Somewhere where no-one comes in a hurry. A place you stay to enjoy the wine, smoke that cigar and relax in a laid back atmosphere. This is not to say that the food will take an eternity to appear, on the contrary service is attentive and quick. Simply that what is the rush, do you really have somewhere better to be? 20 Best places to eat in Havana El Atelier (Experimental fusion) Le Chansonnier (International) Calle 5 entre Paseo y 2, Vedado tel: (7) 836 7075 Calle J No. 257 entre Línea y 15, Vedado El Azador del Rey (Grilled meats) Tel: 832 1576 3ra e 18 y 20, Miramar El Chanchullero (Spanish tapas) Teniente Rey 457ª bajos / Bernaza y El Cristo El Beduino (Arabic) tel:(07) 872 8227; 05 276 0938 5ta entre 4 y 6, Miramar El Deluvio (Italian) Bollywood (Indian) Calle 72 No. 1705 entre 17 y 19, Playa Calle 35 No 1361, entre La Torre y 24, Nuevo Vedado T. 202 1531 Tel: 883 1216 Doña Eutimia (Cuban-creole) Bohemia (Café) Callejón del Chorro No. 60, Habana Vieja Calle 21, esquina 14, Vedado T. 05 281 5883; 05 270 6433 La Buena Vida (Vegetarian) El Divino (International) No 917, Calle 46, entre 11 y 9na. tel: (07) 202 5816 Calle raquel no. 50 e/ Esperanza y Lindero Reparto Castillo de Averhoff, Mantilla Calle 10 (International) Los Nardos Calle 10 No 314 btwn Avs 3 & 5, Miramar. Tel: 205-3970 Paseo de Martí (Prado) 565 entre La Carboncita (Italian) Teniente Rey y Dragones. tel: (07) 863 2985 Ave. 3ra No. 3804 entre 38 y 40. El Piccolo (Italian) tel: (07) 203 0261 / 290 4984 5ta A No. 50206 entre 502 y 504, La Casa (International) Guanabo, Habana del Este tel: (7) 796 4300 Calle 30 No. 865 entre 26 y 41. tel:(07) 881 7000 Malecon 23 Café Lauren (Spanish) (New location with beautiful view over the Malecon) Calle M No. 257, entre 19 y 21, Vedado Havana, Cuba 7 862 7735 Tel: 831 2090 / 832 6890 Río Mar (International) Casa de Miglis 3A y Final # 11, La Puntilla, Miramar Lealtad 120 entre Ánimas y Lagunas tel: (7) 864 1486 Casa Lala (Spanish) Calle 24 No 360 entre 21 y 23, Vedado T. 830 1410 Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 32 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! Conner's Ultimate Guide to The Agro by Conner Gorry

There are several options for where to buy fresh fruits, Ferias agropecuarios – There used to be monthly (or more vegetables and meat in Havana, but grocery stores aren't often) neighborhood 'produce fairs' where trucks heavily one of them (see note 1). No matter where you find laden with bananas, onions, garlic and anything else in yourself shopping, my advice is bring your own plastic or season rolled in for a weekend to sell as much as possible other reusable bags for carting away your goods (though at great prices. Two popular ones occupying blocks and at many markets, little old ladies sell plastic bags for a peso blocks included the one on Avenida 13 in Playa and along apiece). Also, once you've had your produce weighed and Carlos III in Centro Habana/Plaza. Fish, house wares, have paid, look for the 'Area de Consumidor' – this is where artesanía, and prepared foods (chicharrones!) were also you can have your purchases re-weighed to see how much sold at these fairs, where locals flocked to load up for the you've been ripped off (see note 2). When this happens – as week or month. I haven't seen one of these in at least a it does to everyone, Cuban and foreign – you simply go year; I'd love to know what happened to them. Anyone? back to the seller and they'll rectify the error without batting an eyelash. Mobile vendors – These are a new phenomenon made possible by the economic reforms initiated in 2010. While Where to Shop: convenient, these door-to-door produce sales chap my Agropecuarios – There are two types of these markets: ass. First, they're gutting state markets (often the price those with price caps, heavily subsidized by the state, and capped ones), snatching up merchandise to resell at a those where supply and demand dictate price. You can see markup – usually by 100-200% (see note 3). Second, some side-by-side examples at Tulipán, where the chaotic EJT of these agros-on-wheels sell pre-bagged and weighed (price-capped) market has long lines and lots of root goods. Of course, when you open that sack of vegetables mostly, while a block away, the tidy supply and okra/potatoes/peppers in your kitchen, rotted and demand market offers stacks of carrots, mounds of otherwise inferior produce lurks. tomatoes and all the fruta bomba, watercress, red peppers, limes and string beans to get mouths watering. How to shop for some specific, perhaps unfamiliar, items: Not surprisingly, prices are higher at the latter. Quimbombó (okra) – A popular vegetable in these parts, to Organopónicos – These organic markets are heavy on the ensure you're getting fresh okra, snap off the tip of a few veggies, but light on fruit; prices are reasonable for the (or do like we do and test every single one before (mostly) organic produce – not all of it is grown on site. committing – don't worry, sellers won't mind). Tips should Much of it is however, and I've bought just-harvested snap off crisply, not bend over. lettuce, bok choy, okra and basil frequently at organopónicos. The area around the Plaza de la Melón (watermelon) – Watermelon halves are a no brainer. Revolución is peppered with these markets. Two farther When you're after a whole one, however, things get afield favorites are the one at 5ta Avenida and Calle 44 and murkier. In this case, bring the melon to your ear and give the so-called 'organopónico japonés' out on Avenida 25 in it a few hard taps with your fingertips. A good one will the Cubanacán neighborhood. The latter has an awesome return a “dry” pok, pok, pok sound, according to my local orchid selection, as well. expert. Most sellers will also offer to cut out a small triangle so you can sample before buying. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 33 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! Limones (limes) – A staple in many Cuban dishes (and Malanga (taro) and boniato (sweet potato) – While mojitos of course!), most cooks have been duped by limes consulting friends for this post, I asked how they that look luscious but then turn out to be dry and distinguished the good malanga and boniato from the bad. worthless. To avoid this fate, choose limes which have Everyone agreed: these root vegetables a caja de sorpresa. smooth, shiny skin. Most sellers will prove the juiciness of Translation: you never really know what you're going to their limes by cutting one open and squeezing out a long get. The same can be said for zanahoria (carrots), any stream with a dramatic flourish. bunch of which can contain a few that are sweet and toothsome and others that taste like soap. Guayaba (guava) – I remember the first guava I ever ate, off the tree, in the Costa Rican jungle. It was delicious for the Miel (honey) – Fresh honey is sold in repurposed Havana first, second and third bite. On the fourth, I bit into a little Club bottles at many agros and is a real treat. To make sure white worm. I didn't eat another guava for decades. Cuban the honey you're buying hasn't been cut with sugar (an old advice on how to avoid guava worms? Don't think about it: trick in these parts), invert the bottle; the honey should try the majority has them, even if you don't know it. your patience it moves so slowly and importantly, have a large air bubble making its way to the top. Fruta bomba (papaya; see note 4) – Unlike in other latitudes, there's only one variety of papaya sold in Cuba – Notes bigger than a loaf of bread and orange as a basketball. 1. In my experience, many visitors think, logically, that fresh produce and Choose one that is uniform in color and smells sweet; if it protein can be purchased at grocery stores. Not so here in Havana. has a few over ripened black spots, don't discount it. 2. So widespread is the practice, each market now has an Area de Instead, ask the seller to cut out a small triangle to taste. Consumidor. Old hands come to market with their own hand scale to weigh their purchases in front of the seller, before paying. Mamey – I ascribe the licorice axiom to this odd fruit: 3. This is also happening in other sectors, whereby 'cuenta propistas' either you love it or won't touch it. Mamey look like mini (freelancers) buy light bulbs, cleaning products and hardware in state footballs and have brown skin. The flesh is a deep coral stores to re-sell at a steep markup. color, with a distinctive, slightly perfumed, taste. Mamey diehards scoop it up with a spoon but it's mostly used in 4. In Havana and many surrounding areas, 'papaya' is not used to designate this fruit, but is instead reserved for a certain part of the female fruit shakes and ice cream. Sellers will flick off a piece of anatomy. In the Oriente, papaya means the fruit. skin to show you it's ripe. Continue to read full article + slideshow Yuca (yucca) – A ubiquitous root vegetable, these long tubers are brown to reddish on the outside, blindingly white on the inside. When cooked, yucca is soft and always served with an addictive garlic sauce/bitter orange sauce called mojo. Fresh yucca “weeps” from the cut end – you should see little droplets of gathered moisture. Some sellers display a dish of already cooked yucca at their stalls to prove that “se ablanda” – it cooks up soft.

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 34 WHAT’S ON HAVANA !

ADDRESS BOOK

CULTURAL CENTRES

Ballet Nacional Calzada 509 entre D y E, El Casa de la Muralla 63 entre Oficios e de Cuba Vedado Poesía Inquisidor, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 855 2946 Tel. +(53) 7 862 1801

Café Neruda Malecón 355 entre Manrique y San Casa y Parque Mercaderes 158 entre Obrapía y Nicolás, Centro Habana Simón Bolívar Lamparilla, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 3988 Casa de África Obrapía 157 entre Mercaderes y Casa Víctor San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja O’Reilly 311 entre Habana y Aguiar, Hugo Tel. +(53) 7 861 5798 La Habana Vieja Teléfono 866 7591 Casa Alejandro Oficios esquina a Sol, La Habana de Humboldt Vieja Caserón del Jústiz entre Baratillo y Oficios, La Tango Tel. +(53) 7 863 9850 Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 0822 Casa de Artes y Salud 313 entre Gervasio y Escobar, Tradiciones Centro Habana Casona de Línea Línea 505 entre D y E, El Vedado Chinas Tel. +(53) 7 863 5450 / 860 9976 Tel. +(53) 7 833 8562

Casa de Asia Mercaderes 111 entre Obrapía y Centro Cultural Calle13 esquina a I, El Vedado Obispo, La Habana Vieja Bertolt Brecht Tel. +(53) 7 832 9359 Tel. +(53) 7 863 9740 Centro Cultural Calle 19 esquina a E, El Vedado Casa de las Calle 3ra. esquina a G, El Vedado Dulce María Tel. +(53) 7 835 2732 Américas Tel. +(53) 7 838 2706-09 Loynaz Centro Cultural Muralla 63 entre Oficios e Casa de los Oficios 16 entre Obispo y Obrapía, Pablo de la Inquisidor, La Habana Vieja Árabes La Habana Vieja Torriente Brau Tel. +(53) 7 861 5162 Tel. +(53) 7 861 5868 Centro de Danza Prado 111, entre genio y Refugio, La Casa del Obrapía 116, entre Mercaderes y de La Habana Habana Vieja Benemérito de Oficios, La Habana Vieja las Américas Tel. +(53) 7 863 9131 / 866 0808 Tel. +(53) 7 861 8166 Centro Hispano- Malecón 17 entre Prado y Genio, Casa de la Jústiz 18, La Habana Vieja Americano de Centro Habana Comedia (sala- Tel. +(53) 7 863 9282 Cultura teatro) Tel. +(53) 7 860 6282

Casa del Conde Empedrado entre Mercaderes y Centro de San Ignacio 166 entre Obispo y Teatro y Danza Lombillo San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja Obrapía, La Habana Vieja. Tel. +(53) 7 860 4311-14 Tel. +(53) 7 862 9650 / 862 9448

Casa de los Plaza Vieja, La Habana Vieja Conjunto Calle 4 número 103 entre Calzada y Condes de Folklórico 5ta., El Vedado Jaruco Nacional de Tel. +(53) 7 830 3060 Cuba Casa Fundación Obrapía entre Oficios y Oswaldo Mercaderes, La Habana Vieja Convento de Compostela entre Acosta y Luz, La Guayasamín Tel. +(53) 7 861 3843 Belén Habana Vieja

Casa Juan Empedrado entre Aguiar y Cuba, Escuela Nacional Calle 11 esquina a 146, Cubanacán, Gualberto La Habana Vieja de Teatro Playa Gómez Tel. +(53) 7 866 4114 Tel. +(53) 7 208 4923 Casa de la Obra Obrapía entre Mercaderes y San Fundación Calle 13 núm. 509 entre D y E (5to. Pía Ignacio, La Habana Vieja Ludwig de Cuba piso), El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 861 3097 Tel. +(53) 7 832 4270 / 832 9128 Casa de la Obispo 113 entre Oficios y Fundación Avenida del Puerto 262 entre Luz Orfebrería Mercaderes, La Habana Vieja Habana Club y Sol, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 9861 Tel. +(53) 7 862 4108

Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 36 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! CULTURAL CENTRES NIGHTLIFE Dos Gardenias Gabinete de Tacón 12 entre O’Reilly y Calle 7ma. y 26, Miramar Arquelogía Empedrado, La Habana Vieja Ecaleras al Cielo 658 Zulueta Street, between Gloria Tel. +(53) 7 861 4469 and Apodaca Old Havana Instituto de Dr. José Antonio Portuondo Valdor Tel. (537)863 3009 Literatura y Avenida Salvador Allende 710, El Gato Tuerto Calle O entre17 y 19, El Vedado Lingüística Centro Habana Tel. +(53) 7 55 2696 Tel. +(53) 7 878 6486 El Sauce Calle 9na. Entre 120 y 130, Playa Instituto Calle 120 entre 9na. y 13, Tel. +(53) 7 204 7061 Superior de Arte Cubanacán, Playa (ISA) La Cecilia Tel. +(53) 7 271 9771 5ta. Avenida entre 110 y 112, Miramar Proyecto Cárdenas 114, bajos, entre Gloria y La Maison Calle 16 entre 7ma. y 31, Miramar Cultural Arte Apodaca, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) Tiempo 7 537-8 61 2838 La Pérgola Ministerio de Cultura Calle 13 entre 2 y 4, El Vedado Proyecto Trocadero 303 esquina a Águila, Cultural Centro Habana La Piragua Comunitario Calle O y Malecón, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 861 3260 Todas las Manos La Zorra y el (La Casa del Jazz Cubano) Unión de Calle 17 esquina a H, El Vedado Cuervo Calle 23 esquina a O, El Vedado Escritores y Tel. +(53) 7 832 4551-53 Tel. +(53) 7 833 2402 Artistas de Cuba Tel. +(53) 7 832 4551-53 (UNEAC) Piano bar Hotel Ave. 3ra. y 70, Miramar Unión Latina Callejón de Jústiz 21, entre Oficios Panorama Tel. +(53) 7 204 0100 y Avenida del Puerto, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 866 8142 / 866 8255 ART GALLERIES Tel. +(53) 7 832 4551-53 Centro de Arte Empedrado esquina a San Ignacio, Vitrina de San Ignacio entre Teniente Rey y Contemporáneo La Habana Vieja Valonia Wifredo Lam Muralla, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 9781 / 861 3419 Tel. +(53) 7 868 3561 Centro de San Ignacio 352 esquina a Teniente Desarrollo de las Rey, La Habana Vieja BARS Artes Visuales Tel. +(53) 7 862 5279, 862 9295 / 3D BAR (Recently opened, smallish place, 862 3533 quite cool) Centro Calle 23 esquina a 35, San Agustín, Malecon entre Paseo y President Laboratorio La Lisa Artístico de San Don Cangreco (Friday night party venue for young Agustín (LASA) & beautiful crowd) Ave. 1ra No. 1606 entre 16 y 18 Centro Oficios 362 entre Luz y Santa Provincial de Clara, La Habana Vieja Artes Plásticas y Espacio (Hip new bar with valet parking) Tel. +(53) 7 862 3228 / 862 3295 / Diseño Calle 10, Entre 5ta y 31, Miramar 866 0280

Melem Bar (Young hip crowd – can get Colección Arte Casa de las Américas smokey) de Nuestra Calle G entre 3ra. y 5ta., El Vedado América Haydée 1ra y 60, Miramar Tel. +(53) 7 838 2706-09 Santamaría Sangri-La (Young hip crowd, modern basement venue) Fototeca de Mercaderes 307 entre Muralla y 42 y 11, Miramar Cuba Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, La Habana Vieja Tocororo (Mostly expatriates with Cuban Tel. +(53) 7 862 2530 friends, live music) Tel. +(53) 7 832 4551-53 Calle 18, entre 3ra y 5ta, Miramar Galería Teatro Nacional Avellaneda Calle Paseo y 39, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 870 4651 Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 37 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! ART GALLERIES

Galería de Arte Calle D, entre 1ra, y 3ra., El Vedado Galería El Reino Biblioteca Nacional José Martí Malecón de Este Mundo Boyeros entre 20 de Mayo y Aranguren, Plaza de la Revolución Galería Carmen Oficios 162 entre Amargura y Tel. +(53) 7 881 1757 Montilla Churruca, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 866 4114 Galería René Teatro Nacional Portocarrero Calle Paseo y 39, El Vedado Galería Collage San Rafael 103 entre Consulado e Tel. +(53) 7 870 4651 Habana Industria, Centro Habana Galería Raúl Palacio del Segundo Cabo Galería Factoría O´Reilly 308 entre entre Habana y Martínez O’Reilly 4 esquina a Tacón, La Habana Aguiar, La Habana Vieja Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 8091 ext. 151 Galería Forma Obispo 255 entre Cuba y Aguiar, Galería Raúl La Habana Vieja Centro Cultural Bertolt Brecha Oliva Tel. +(53) 7 862 2633 Calle13 esquina a I, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 9359 Galería Fresa y Calle 23 entre 10 y 12, El Vedado Chocolate Galería Roberto Muralla 107 esquina a San Ignacio, Diago La Habana Vieja Galería Avenida del Puerto y Sol, La Tel. +(53) 7 862 3577 Fundación Habana Vieja Habana Club Tel. +(53) 7 862 4108 Galería Calle 23 esquina a 10, El Vedado Servando Tel. +(53) 7 833 9599 Galería Calle 13 esquina a D, 5to. piso, El Galería Fundación Calle 42 entre 1ra. y 3ra., La Copa, Vedado Servando Ludwig Playa Tel. +(53) 7 832 4270 / 832 9128 Cabrera Tel. +(53) 7 203 7171 Galería Galiano Galiano esquina a Concordia, Galería Víctor San Ignacio y Callejón del Chorro, Centro Habana Manuel La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 5365 Tel. +(53) 7 866 9268 Galería Habana Línea 460 entre E y F, El Vedado Galería Villa Calle H número 406 entre 17 y 19, Tel. +(53) 7 832 7101 Manuela El Vedado Galería Haydee Calle G entre E y F, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 2391 Santamaría Tel. +(53) 7 832 4653 Galería 23 Y 12 Calle 23 esquina a 12, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 831 1810 Galería Julio Hotel Conde de Villanueva Larramendi Mercaderes 202 entre Lamparilla y Hotel Los Frailes Teniente Rey 8 entre Oficios y Amargura, La Habana Vieja Mercaderes, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 9294 / 862 9293 Tel. +(53) 7 862 9383 Galería La San José 114 entre Industria y Taller Callejón del Chorro, Plaza de la Acacia Consulado, Centro Habana Experimental de Catedral, La Habana Vieja Gráfica de La Tel. +(53) 7 863 9364 / 861 3533 Tel. +(53) 7 862 0979 Habana Galería Casa de las Américas Taller de Cuba 513, entre Teniente Rey y Latinoamericana Calle G entre 3ra. y 5ta., piso 2, El Serigrafía René Muralla, La Habana Vieja Vedado Portocarrero Tel. +(53) 7 862 3276 / 861 9354 Tel. +(53) 7 832 4653 Tel. +(53) 7 862 3276 / 861 9354 Galería Mariano Calle 15 núm. 607 entre B y C, El Vedado CINEMAS Tel. +(53) 7 838 2702 Centro Cultural Calle 23 entre 10 y 12, El Vedado Galería Orígenes Gran Teatro de La Habana ICAIC Prado y San Rafael, Centro Habana Cine Acapulco Avenida 26 esquina a 39, Nuevo Tel. +(53) 7 863 6690 Vedado Galería Palacio Cuba 64, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 833 9573 de la Artesanía Tel. +(53) 7 33 8072 y 861 9796 Cine Chaplin Calle 23 entre 10 y 12, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 831 1101 Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 38 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! CINEMAS MUSEUMS

Cine La Rampa Calle 23 entre O y P, El Vedado Museo Casa Leonor Pérez 314, entre Picota y Tel. +(53) 7 878 6146 Natal de José Egido, La Habana Vieja Martí Tel. +(53) 7 861 3778 Cine Payret Prado 513, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 3163 Museo Castillo O’Reilly entre Avenida del Puerto y de la Real Tacón, La Habana Vieja Cine Riviera Calle 23 entre F y G, El Vedado Fuerza Tel. +(53) 7 830 9564 Tel. +(53) 7 861 6130

Cine Yara Museo del Amargura esquina a Mercaderes, Calle L esquina a 23, El Vedado Chocolate Tel. +(53) 7 831 1723 / 832 9430 La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 866 4431 Cine 23 y 12 Calle 23 entre 12 y 14, El Vedado Museo de la Tel. +(53) 7 833 6906 Tacón 1 entre Obispo y O’Reilly, La Ciudad Habana Vieja Cinematógrafo Mercaderes entre Obispo y Tel. +(53) 7 861 5001 Lumière Obrapía, La Habana Vieja Museo de la Línea esquina a G, El Vedado Danza Cine-teatro Línea entre Paseo y A., El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 831 2198 Trianón Tel. +(53) 7 830 9648 Museo Ernest Finca Vigía, San Francisco de Hemingway Fundación del Quinta Santa Bárbara, calle 212 Paula, San Miguel del Padrón Nuevo Cine núm. 21254 esquina a 31, La Tel. +(53) 7 891 0809 Latinoamericano Coronela, La Lisa Museo Obispo entre San Ignacio y Tel. +(53) 7 271 8311 / 271 8141 Farmacéutico Mercaderes, La Habana Vieja Taquechel Multisala Infanta Infanta entre Neptuno y San Miguel, Centro Habana Museo de Obispo 61 entre Baratillo y Oficios, Tel. +(53) 7 878 9323 Historia Natural La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 2687 MUSEUMS Galería Mariano Calle 15 núm. 607 entre B y C, El Fototeca de Mercaderes 307 entre Muralla y Cuba Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 2530 Museo Nacional Obispo 61 entre Baratillo y Oficios, de Artes La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 832 4551-53 Decorativas Tel. +(53) 7 863 2687 Maqueta de La Calle 28 núm. 113, entre 1ra. y 3ra., Habana Miramar Museo Nacional (Arte Cubano) Tel. +(53) 7 204 2661 / 332661 de Bellas Artes Trocadero entre Monserrate y Memorial José Martí Zulueta, La Habana Vieja Plaza de la Revolución Tel. +(53) 7 862 0140, 861 3858 y Tel. +(53) 7 882 0906 / 884 0551 863 9484

Monumento de Cárcel entre Zulueta y Prado, La Museo Nacional Centro Asturiano (Colección de Bellas Artes la Cárcel de La Habana Vieja Universal) Habana San Rafael entre Zulueta y Monserrate, La Habana Vieja Museo Edifico Felipe Poey, Plaza Ignacio Tel. +(53) 7 862 0140 / 861 3858 / Antropológico Agramonte, Universidad de La Montané 863 9484 Habana, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 879 3488 Museo Nacional Calle Mercaderes, esquina a de la Cerámica Amargura, La Habana Vieja Museo de Tacón 12 entre O’Reilly y Contemporánea Arqueología Empedrado, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 4469 Museo Nacional Capdevila 1 entre Habana y Aguiar, de la Música Museo de Arte Plaza de la Catedral, La Habana La Habana Vieja Colonial Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 9046 Tel. +(53) 7 862 6440 Museo de Naipes Inquisidor y Muralla, Plaza Vieja, Museo Biblioteca Calle Paseo 304 esquina a 13, El La Habana Vieja Servando Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 860 1530 Cabrera Moreno Tel. +(53) 7 835 2027 / 836 0010 Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 39 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSEUMS MUSIC

Museo San Miguel y Ronda, El Vedado Maxim Rock Bruzón 62, entre Almendares y Napoleóni- Tel. +(53) 7 879 1412 / 879 1460 Ayestarán, Plaza de la co RevoluciónTel. +(53) 7 877 5925

Museo Obispo entre Cuba y San Ignacio, Oratorio San Aguiar esquina a Obrapía, La Numismáti-co La Habana Vieja Felipe Neri Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 5811 Tel. +(53) 7 862 3243

Museo de la Oficios, entre Obispo y Obrapía, La Palacio del Zulueta 253 entre Ánimas y Perfumería Habana Vieja Teatro Lírico Neptuno, La Habana Vieja Nacional Museo Postal Avenida de Rancho Boyeros entre Cubano 19 de Mayo y 20 de Mayo Sala Lecuona Prado y San Rafael, Centro Habana (Ministerio de Comunicaciones), Tel. +(53) 7 861 3077 / 3079 Plaza de la Revolución Teatro Amadeo Tel. +(53) 7 870 5581 Calzada y D, El Vedado Roldán Tel. +(53) 7 832 4521-22 Museo de la Refugio 1 entre Monserrate y Revolución y Zulueta, La Habana Vieja THEATRES Memorial Tel. +(53) 7 862 4091 Granma Centro Cultural Calle13 esquina a I, El Vedado Bertolt Brecht Tel. +(53) 7 832 9359 Museo del Ron Avenida del Puerto 262 entre Luz y Sol, La Habana Vieja Cine-teatro Línea entre Paseo y A, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 862 4108 Trianón Tel. +(53) 7 830 9648

Museo del Mercaderes 120 entre Obispo y Gran Teatro de Prado y San Rafael, Centro Habana Tabaco Obrapía, La Habana Vieja La Habana Tel. +(53) 7 861 3077-79 Tel. +(53) 7 861 5795 Sala Adolfo Calle 11 entre D y E, El Vedado Fototeca de Mercaderes 307 entre Muralla y Llauradó Tel. +(53) 7 832 5573 Cuba Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, La Habana Vieja Sala Argos Ayestarán 307 esquina a 20 de Teatro Tel. +(53) 7 862 2530 Mayo, El Cerro Tel. +(53) 7 832 4551-53 Tel. +(53) 7 878 5551

Parque Histórico Carretera de la Cabaña, La Habana Sala Hubert de Calzada 657 entre A y B, El Vedado Militar Morro- del Este Blanck Tel. +(53) 7 830 1011 Cabaña Tel. +(53) 7 861 6130 / 861 5001 Teatro América Galiano entre Concordia y Sala del Oficios y Callejón de Jústiz, La Neptuno, Centro Habana Transporte Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 5416 Automotor Teatro Astral Infanta 501, Centro Habana MUSIC Tel. +(53) 7 878 1001 Teatro El Sótano Basílica Menor Oficios y Churruca, La Habana Calle K entre 25 y 27, El Vedado del Convento de Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 832 0630 San Francisco Tel. +(53) 7 862 9683 de Asís Teatro Fausto Prado y Colón, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 1173 Gran Teatro de Prado y San Rafael, Centro Habana La Habana Tel. +(53) 7 861 3077-79 Teatro Karl Marx Calle 1ra y 8, Miramar Iglesia de San Desamparados y San Ignacio, Tel. +(53) 7 203 0801 / 209 1991 Francisco de Alameda de Paula, La Habana Vieja Paula Teatro Mella Línea entre A y B, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 860 4210 Tel. +(53) 7 830 4987 Jardines de la Avenida Tropical y Rizo, Playa Tropical Tel. +(53) 7 881 8767 Teatro Nacional Paseo y 39, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 879 3558 / 879 6011 Liceum Avenida Tropical y Rizo, Playa Mozartiano de Tel. +(53) 7 881 8767 Teatro Nacional Calle M entre 19 y 21, El Vedado La Habana de Guiñol Tel. +(53) 7 832 6262 / 832 8292 Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 40 WHAT’S ON HAVANA !