Ca i r <.1 M e Lt i e v a 1 Nee r o 1 o 1. ,

Architecture for the Dead

"'

Galila El Kadi • Alain Bonnamy fortheDea

Cairo's Medieval Necropolis

An Institut de Recherche pour le Developpement Edition

The American University in Cairo Press Cairo New York All photographs are by Alain Bonnamy unless otherwise noted ..

First published in Egypt in 2007 by The American University in Cairo Press 113 Sharia Kasr el Aini, Cairo, Egypt . 420 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10018 www.aucpress.com

Copyright © 2007 by the American University in Cairo Press / Institut de Recherche pour le Developpement

This book was first published in French in 2001 under the title La Cite des Morts, copyright © Pierre Mardaga Editeur / Institut de Recherche pour le Developpernent, ISBN lRD 2-7099-1414-X, ISBN Pierre Mardaga 2-87009-772-7.

Translated from the French by Philippe Dresner and Pascale Ghazaleh.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

Dar el Kutub No. 24476/06 ISBN 978 977 416 0745

Dar el Kutub Cataloging-in-Publication Data

El Kadi, Galila Architecture for the Dead: Cairo's Medieval Necropolis / Galila El Kadi and Alain Bonnamy.-Cairo: The American University in Cairo Press, 2007 p. cm. ISBN 977 4160746 1. Architecture, Egyptian 2. Necropolis 1. Bonnamy, Alain 722.2

Printed in Egypt Contents

7 Preface 9 Introduction 13 Chapter 1 Continuity and Change in Religious Beliefs 21 Chapter 2 The Southern Necropolis: The Qarafa 127 Chapter 3 Bab al-Nasr. The Wood Necropolis 171 Chapter 4 The Eastern Necropolis: Tombs of the Caliphs 253 Chapter 5 City of the Dead: A Home for the Homeless 271 Chapter 6 Heritage and Challenges 284 Chapter 7 Where Do We Go from Here? 293 Bibliography 295 Glossary 297 Chronology 300 General Index 302 Index of Places To Hakim Preface

The first edition of this book was published recent Guide Gallimard to Egypt, pub­ he showed in the subject and the material in French in 2001. It represented the cul­ lished in 1994.' As for the general condi­ and for the moral support his institution mination of a research project undertaken tion of the necropolis described in this provided in the initial phase of the project. jointly by the Institut de Recherche pour le book, it has deteriorated considerably: The team of young researchers assigned to Developpernent (IRD, formerly the sewage water has flooded the tombs of the help us during that first phase was later sup­ ORSTOM) and the General Organization southern and eastern necropolises, caus­ plemented by students at Cairo University's for Housing, Building, and Planning ing some buildings to collapse and visible faculty of urban planning. The motivation, Research (GOHBPR) between 1985 and damage to appear on those remaining dynamism, and curiosity of these young 1990. Several parts of this project appeared above ground level. As for the Bab al­ architects increased our enthusiasm, and we independently in various contexts­ Nasr necropolis, its beautiful wooden owe them much by way of gratitude. notably, in two articles and in a film, Le tombs are nothing but a pile of ruins. The We would also like to thank Emile Le Caire, la cite des marts, which was shown environs of restored, classified monu­ Bris and Jean-Paul Duchemin, respec­ at the International Film Festival on ments have grown denser as housing tively director and assistant director of Architecture (FIFARC) in 1987 and at the encroaches, canceling out all the efforts the IRD's former department D (urban­ Georges Pompidou Center as part of the undertaken since the early 1980s. Ruined ization and urban social systems). Their "Les magiciens de la terre" exhibition. buildings, fetid swamps, piles of rubbish, support and encouragement allowed this Some of the photographs in this book were and tombs devoured by housing: such is project to be carried through. Nor is it shown in an exhibition at the French the desolate spectacle that Cairo's Mus­ possible to overestimate what we owe Cultural Center in Cairo and at the head­ lim necropolis offers today. Unfortu­ Rene de Maximy, research director at the quarters of the GOHBPR in May 1990. nately, this observation confirms the IRD, and Francine Arakelian, both of The text was initially drafted as a report to conclusion of Chapter 5, which predicted whom read the manuscript scrupulously mark the end of the study, and was the worst: the gradual transformation of and provided very valuable comments. reworked for the 2001 French edition. the prestigious city of the dead into a The advice of Andre Raymond, professor More than seventeen years have passed fourth- or fifth-rate city. emeritus at the University of Provence since this research project began and this This new edition, then, provides a pic­ and eminent connoisseur of Cairo, were text first appeared. Six additional years ture of what the city of the dead still was at also of immense value in putting together separate the publication of the French edi­ the close of the second millennium. Some the final manuscript. tion from the current English one. In these of the topographical and iconographic Thanks are also due to Aliyya Sherif for two decades, many things have changed information, however, remains relevant. welcoming us when the photographs were in the city of the dead. The number of Equally relevant are the importance of the being developed in Cairo; to those respon­ inhabitants has been growing continu­ architectural heritage and the urgent need sible for publication on both sides of the ously, as we saw during our regular visits to save it and bring it to light. Mediterranean (Neil Hewison at the there to seek out additional information, We would like to thank all those who American University in Cairo Press; show colleagues and friends around, and helped us carry out the work that yielded Marie-Noelle Favier and Thomas Mourrier serve indirectly as guides to foreign visi­ this book in its French and English editions. at the IRD); and, last but not least, to the tors, since we also drew up an itinerary Our thanks go first to Abu Zeid Rageh, for­ translators, Philippe Dresner and Pascale through the Cairo necropolis for the most mer head of the GOHBPR, for the interest Ghazaleh.

Note , Egypte, (Paris: Gallimard, NouveauxLoisirs Editions, 1994).

7 "Of all the monuments, tombs mayofferthe widest scopefor thestudies of the archaeologist, theartist, eventhephilosopher. Civilizations of every kindhavemade manifest the nature of theirbeliefin an afterlife in the waytheyhavetreated theirdead." Viol/et le Due, Dictionnaire raisonne de l'architecture, vol. 3, bk. 9, p. 21.

Source: Description de l'Egypte: Etat Moderne, Cairo, vol. 1, pI. 66.

Y.

8 Introduction

It all began with stories in the Egyptian press My father's family tomb was like a villa, intermediate world where the dead waited, in about staggering numbers of people-as with high stone outer walls surrounding an limbo, for the day of resurrection. We would many as a million according to some-living open courtyard on either side of which there press our ears to the ground, straining to hear in the cemeteries of Cairo. The figures, it later stood two similar-looking, single-story, rec­ a snatch of their conversations or wails, des­ transpired, had been grossly exaggerated, but tangular buildings. One was the oratory. Up perate for a tangible sign of their presence, we were not to know that at the time. The four steps and across a veranda was a front but in vain. So we let our imagination run capital, although not blighted by shanty­ door flanked by symmetrical windows and wild, seeing a reincarnated soul.in a passing towns, seemed to be facing its own particular leading to a room with three ceremonial sar­ black cat or the ghost we were so longing to brand of urban calamity: mass necropolitan cophagi marking the places where the vaults meet in the white robes of a muqri' as he dis­ squatter settlements. were located below ground. Two were made appeared around a bend in the road, at which Intrigued by the idea of the living cohabit­ of marble, and rising from each was a marble point we would take to our heels and flee. ing with the dead, we set out to investigate column crowned with a carving, a plait of Our frequent visits and the childish games what seemed to be a vast field of research for hair on one and a turban on the other to mark that kept us busy made these places more sociologists and urban planners alike: 1,000 the different sexes. Promiscuity had to be familiar to us, and helped tear down the hectares of tombs, a thirtieth of the Greater avoided in death as in life, and so men and myths built up around the afterworld. Cairo urban area, inhabited by hundreds of women were kept apart in separate vaults. As customs changed from the 1950s thousands of people. The French Institut de The third sarcophagus, made of finely onward, the tradition of visiting the cemeter­ Recherche pour le Developpernent (IRD) crafted wood and much smaller than the oth­ ies-although still popular among the lower became interested, and Egypt's General ers, was for the children. Across the c1asses-gradually died out among the bour­ Organization for Housing, Building and courtyard stood the building for the living: a geoisie. Our visits became less and less Planning Research (GOHBPR) seized the tomb keeper's lodge, which was occupied frequent, and increasingly shorter, just long opportunity to diagnose a situation of some year-round, and reception areas equipped enough to perform a couple of rituals. Later concern to politicians. The thought of return­ with washrooms and a kitchen: everything we stopped accompanying our parents alto­ ing to the cemeteries brought back vivid but a bathroom. gether, making do with a tender thought for memories of my games and adventures there I remember the oratory in ourneighbors' our dead and reciting a few verses of the as a child. I remembered clearly our family tomb, which we visited from time to time: Qur'an. Then came the age of doubt and excursions on the Muslim high festivals of the floor covered in rugs, the sarcophagi sur­ agnosticism, when the rites began to look 'Id al-Fitr (end of Ramadan) and 'Id al-Adha rounded by silk veils, and cushion-filled ridiculous. We found the idea of human (the sacrifice), when we would leave home at recesses for visitors set into the back wall. beings communing with a god or with the the crack of dawn for a day in the company My mother's family tomb, on the other souls of the departed to be absurd. Our rela­ of our dead. Traditionally, those visits could hand, was rather more humble: no oratory or tionship with the city of the dead was over. last for several days on end, but a govemment sarcophagi, just a raised tombstone in the ban on remaining in the cemeteries after dark courtyard and a two-room reception area *** had put a stop to that. As soon as we arrived with a small washroom. Some neighboring By 1985, it had been fifteen years or so since at the door to our tomb, a crowd of needy tombs had several tombstones set out I had last set foot in the cemeteries. Although people would rush toward us and we would around a courtyard, or a covered gallery in they were still present in my memory, I was hand out offerings of money and food: place of the rooms for receiving visitors. going to have to look at those places in a very sholeik (a raisin brioche baked especially for From the outside, however, they all looked different light. I did not go straight back to the occasion), oranges or dates, depending on the same to us. my ancestors' tombs, but took the main the season, and mutton at al-Adha. Then we My sister and I preferred our father's fam­ routes to the funerary complexes of sultans would take to the oratory to join the muqri' in ily tomb. With its monumental outer walls Qaytbay and Barquq and the mausoleum of a recitation of passages from the Qur'an. The towering over the deserted streets it made us Imam al-Shafi'i, Arriving at Qaytbay, I was thirty-minute ceremony seemed to my sister feel as though we were living in a fantastic surprised, to say the least, at the density of the and me to go on forever, as we had to wait city. In that desert of sand and stone, where population. The mosque was now sur­ until it was over before being allowed to go , any games liable to wake the dead were rounded by 'regular' tenement buildings out to play. strictly forbidden, we went in search of that several stories high, with laundry hanging

9 from the windows, shop fronts on the side­ Once we had realized that the squatter set­ cost-effective land use and the loosest and walks, and children kicking balls around the tlement issue was nowhere near as serious as most complex patchwork of plots, which are streets. Indeed, the area had evolved into a the stories that initially sparked our interest the fruit of chance and customary practices. bona fide residential district stretching north had claimed, our attention turned to other­ The two extremes coexisted in separate and to Barquq, and it was the same to the south, architectural and urbanistic-aspects of the distinct areas. But they had also interpene­ at al-Shafi'i. But moving away from these cemeteries. trated, producing all manner of variants. poles of attraction- the mosque-mausolea­ What intrigued us to begin with was the Obviously, volumetric composition is bound the fabric gradually evolved into an conflict we observed between the cities of to differ depending on whether one is work­ inconsistent patchwork of tenements, tombs, the living and the dead: on the one hand the ing with two, twenty, or two hundred square and tombs made into apartment buildings residential enclaves eating ever further into meters, and the diversity of plot sizes had with the addition of an upper story, and then the funerary fabric of the latter, and on the engendered a wealth of architectural diver­ nothing but tombs, completely uninhabited. other the Islamic cemeteries encrusted in sity: simple stone parallelepipeds adorned So we continued on our way, maps in the urban fabric of the former. We chose to with a stela at either end, marvelous cabin­ hand, and ended up spending the next three concentrate on three of Cairo's six cemeter­ like structures adorned in fine wooden'lace­ years combing the thousand hectares tomb ies: Imam al-Shafi'i to the south of the work,' villas with several outbuildings, and by tomb, taking stock of those that were Citadel, the Mamluk cemetery to the east, even great domed mosquemausolea-truly vacant and those that were occupied. The and Bab al-Nasr beyond the northern proud monuments standing majestically in cemetery settlements turned out to be iso­ Fatimid wall.' Both the authorities and vast green gardens. lated residential enclaves whose develop­ property developers had high stakes on the Later, upon closer inspection, we came ment had been due, in large part, to the space occupied by the cemeteries, which to identify perhaps a thousand years of history of the cemeteries, permissiveness on they saw as barriers to the city's expansion architectural history, but we were already the part of the authorities, the absence of to the east. This was highly coveted land, able to make out a wide range of building surrounding walls, and the customary given the soil structure and the fact that techniques, influences, echoes, and rivalry between the cities of the living and their proximity to urban neighborhoods trends-especially the Egyptian people's of the dead. As for the numbers, the 1986 meant that they would be easy to equip with enduring desire to use the tomb as a census put the size of the necropolitan pop­ basic infrastructure-not to mention the medium for projecting an image of them­ ulation-including parts of the urban fringe authorities' efforts to steer urban growth selves, thus reflecting its cultural impor­ and, of course, the enclaves-at 109,673. eastward in order to offset the unplanned tance in Egyptian society. We, on the other hand, found actual tomb proliferation of farmlands to the north and The cemeteries have been a source of dwellers to number no more than thirteen west. The option favored by planning fascination and wonder to many a visitor thousand. Either way, it was some way short officials was to transfer the tombs to sites through the ages, yet the authorities had of a million. out in the desert and use the freed-up land never granted them the attention they The tomb dwellers have often been likened to develop high-class residential districts. deserved, either as heritage to be safe­ to the people reduced, in other parts of the Meanwhile, another issue had claimed our guarded or as areas in need of structuring world, to living in shantytowns. There may attention: the fact that the cemeteries needed and development. For one thing, they well be parallels in terms of their social and safeguarding as architectural heritage. lacked the necessary assessments, statis­ economic circumstances, but there is no com­ Funerary monuments dating back to each tics, and cataloguing, so we set out to fill parison when it comes to the quality of their successive era since the Arab conquest­ that particular gap. housing. Most live in solid stone or brick including many newer tombs of genuine aes­ We began our inventory by updating the buildings with several rooms and stone or thetic, symbolic, and historic value-were most recent existing maps, which were marble-tiled floors, on walled plots of land, in a state of ruin and decay and in danger of based on aerial photographs taken in 1977, maybe even with trees.The dead lie in vaulted vanishing without trace. These places need filling in the missing details and, most stone tombs below ground, reached via a to be explored on foot for their rich architec­ importantly, outlining which zones were staircase sealed off from the outside by a stone tural and spatial diversity to be appreciated. occupied and which were not. We then set slab; they do not present a health hazard to One can legitimately talk about them in about determining the state of the built envi­ the living due to the quality of the sandy terms of cities and urban planning without ronment and identifying the areas that had desert soil, the lack of moisture preventing fear of straying into the metaphorical: the fallen into disuse or ruin as a first step polluting agents from rising to the surface. surface area of tomb plots ranges from a toward pinpointing those that were in need Conditions in the tombs of Cairo are better few to a few dozen to several hundred of safeguarding or that were unfit for human than in the unhealthy housing of its old town, square meters; and the 'fabric' features both habitation. This yielded the basic data with the emergency shelters, or the makeshift regular, orthogonal grids that are the prod­ which to devise alternative solutions to the dwellings filling the interstices of the city. uct of conscious attempts at organized and demolition advocated by the authorities-a

10 devastatingly ill-conceived approach rooted While ambitious plans to move the tombs aspects, Posener's extremely useful Dictio­ in ignorance and short sightedness: igno­ were off the agenda, this did not mean an end nary ofEgyptian Civilization, together with rance of the exact situation on the ground, of to the indiscriminate damage being done by Montet (1970) and Raake (1952) for back­ the financial, social, and cultural costs other, smaller-scale projects. It did not stop ground data on pharaonic Egypt, and the involved in moving tombs and redeveloping the Governorate of Cairo, for instance, from remarkable work of Egyptian sociologist the land, and of the laws protecting the tenth going ahead with the partial demolition of Sayed 'Eweiss for his insights into the reli­ of Fatimid Cairo's historic monuments that Bab al-Nasr cemetery, with a view to clear­ gious beliefs of the Copts and Muslims in happen to be located in its cemeteries, and a ing access to the Fatimid walls. Our response contemporary Egypt ('Eweiss 1966, 1972). complete lack of the overarching vision to the destruction was to mount an exhibition The next three chapters take the reader on needed to undertake the difficult task of about the necropolis) that would serve to a voyage of discovery through the three urban development planning upon which show both what had been-and was in dan­ main cemeteries of Cairo, tracing their his­ the capital city's future depends. ger of being-lost for good, and to unveil tory from their earliest beginnings and Preparing an overall structural plan com­ our pilot project for a funerary heritage pro­ describing their current state. Inventories, plete with a more detailed pilot project for tection area geared to the enhancement of the maps, plans, photographs, and bid illustra­ a specific zone (Bab al-Nasr cemetery) wooden tombs in need of safeguarding. The tions help relay the architectural morphol­ would, in our view, provide enlightening exhibition prompted the launch of a national ogy and spatial layout of the tombs. This part guidelines for official decision-making. competition for the development of the area of the book is based on fieldwork and docu­ But our goal went beyond the familiar lim­ in and around this cemetery. mentary research to collate historical data its of a purely operational process. We Meanwhile, alongside all the action being scattered throughout a host of bibliographic wanted to restore the funerary art and taken to bring about a shift from destructive material dealing not with the cemeteries in architecture that constitutes a key part of practices to proper urban planning, some­ particular, but with the whole of the city of the city's history and its contemporary fab­ thing also needed to be done to address the Cairo. Of the works cited in the bibliogra­ ric to its rightful place in the cultural paucity of knowledge about the present-day phy, we found the following especially use­ heritage of Egypt. Given the haziness of cemeteries of the descendants of the ful here: Massignon (1958), on the historical the heritage concept in the prevailing pharaohs. That is the aim of the seven chap­ topology of the city of the dead; Hamza socio-political climate at the time, it was ters of this book. (1986), on the MamJuk-era cemeteries; and set to be an uphill struggle. Chapter 1 is an overview of the origins and Raghib (1972,1974,1977), a series of arti­ Unsure of our chances of success, we set evolution of funerary rites in the Nile Valley, cles on the Fatimid period. out to raise awareness of these little-known whose inhabitants appear to have preserved Chapter 5 brings us back to the necropoli­ treasure troves among experts and non­ and protected their dead since protohistoric tan settlement issue-the original focus of experts alike by every means available to us: times; no evidence has been found of canni­ the research that culminated in this book­ surveying the tombs and photographing the balism or of bodies being left for the birds, looking at how it ties in with the Egyptian most outstanding and unusual ones; publish­ dumped in the river, incinerated, and so on. housing crisis and with the close relationship ing articles and interviews in the local press; A succession of poly- and monotheistic that the Egyptian people have maintained presenting papers and organizing and lead­ belief systems in this region has cultivated a with their burial sites for thousands of years. ing round-table debates at scientific sym­ reverence of the dead and their burial places. Chapter 6 revolves around a discussion posia, and so on. Embalming bodies may have fallen out of of heritage and its conservation, asking After three years, our campaign began to practice over two thousand years ago, and questions about the emergence of the her­ bear fruit. In 1991, two years after the Egypt­ nothing is done to ensure the survival of the itage concept, what it covers, what safe­ ian Sociologists Association had launched a departed beyond the grave, but people con­ guarding practices it requires, and where socioeconomic survey based on our fieldwork tinue to build impressively large posthumous the cemeteries have figured in the policies findings, the minister of housing retracted his dwellings to house their bodily remains in enacted in the late nineteenth century that earlier statements on demolishing the ceme­ materials designed to withstand time­ are designed to safeguard Egyptian monu­ teries. Our structural plan was incorporated eternity for the dead being reliant upon the ments. Analyzing how the heritage has been into the Greater Cairo master plan. State durability of stone in this ever-changing treated at various points in history has officials and the media began discussing the realm. Some customs may have changed proved useful here and has helped us gain cemetery settlements issue in much more altogether, but current practices and beliefs insight into the nature of the challenges fac­ measured terms, and members of the state remain steeped in the past. This chapter looks ing the cemeteries and their monuments housing commission watched a film about the at the continuity and change in the social prac­ today. Reports of the Comite de Conserva­ city of the dead being screened at the French tices surrounding death. To guide us on our tion des Monuments de l'Art Arabe and the cultural center' and began to see the cemeter­ way we referred to Ragon (1981) and Auzelle archives of the Service des Antiquites pro­ ies in a new light. (1965) for the architectural and urbanistic vided us with the basic data we needed to

11 In Islam, only afew stones indicating the location of the tomb are allowed.

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understand both those challenges and the reasons for the Egypt­ Notes ian elite's growing interest in safeguarding the heritage. I The other three being Zayn al-'Abidin, which was completely disused and The final chapter reflects on what the future holds for the city of awaiting demolition, and Heliopolis and Madinat Nasr, two modem ceme­ teries in the eastern suburbs, where the tombs were very much smaller and draft the dead in light of the planning proposals put forward by enclosed within walls. UNESCO for the safeguarding and development of the medieval 2 Alain Bonnamy, Le Caire, la cite des morts (1986), first screened at the old town of Cairo (Fustat, Bulaq, and the southern and eastern 1987 FIFARC international architecture film festival, in Bordeaux, France, necropolises) by the Governorate of Cairo for the Greater Cairo 10-15 March 1987, and then at the Center Georges Pomp idou as part of master plan, and by the authors of this book within the framework the "Les magiciens de la terre" exhibition , 17 May-2 July 1989. ' '' Bab al-Nasr: Une Necropole en Bois," an exhibition of 31 plates of pho­ of the Bab al-Nasr safeguarding and development pilot project. tographs and plans mounted by Galila El Kadi and Alain Bonnamy and staged at the French Cultural Center in Cairo from 9-18 May 1990 and at Galila El Kadi the headquarters of the GOHBPR from 20 May-1O June 1990.

12 General Index

Page numbers in italics refer 'Ashura, 19 Ephesus, II1 Horus, 14 iwan of Ibn Tha'Iab, 53, 55, to illustrations Asmahan, 96 Fabricius Bey, 199 hummus akhdar, 198 59,298 Auzelle, Robert, II Fakhr al-Farsi, 15,48,125 al-Husayn, 55,125,273,281, 'Izz al-Din Aybak, 124 'Abbas, 125,277 Awliya', 97,295 Farag ibn Barquq, 177,220, 295 al-Jabarti,276 'Abbas Hilmi, 199,255,299 Aytimish al-Bagasi, 241,242, 242,298 Husayn Karnal, 111,281 Jahin al-Khalwati, Ill, 115, 'Abbasid(s), 28, 29, 39, 41,41, 244,298 Farid al-Atrash, 96 Ibn 'Abd al-Hakarn, 125 299 42,124-25,297,298 Ayyubid era/period, 51, 177, Farid Shafi'i, 123 Ibn 'Ata Allah, 110 Jamila [Cemile] Hanum, 110 'Abd al-Aziz, 220 252,274,280,282,296,298 Farouk (King), 125 IbnHaj,19 Jomard, 35, 277 'Abd al-Halim Hafiz, 96 Ayyubid(s), 15,31,33,41,44, Fatirna Khatun, 42,42,43, Ibn Hanbal, 49, 295 ka, 13, 17, 19 'Abd al-Mun'im, 199 51,53,124,252,256,273, 124,298 Ibn Iyas, 222, 224, 269 Kamel Ayyub, 282 'Abd al-Qadir (arnir), 110 282 Fatimid, 10, 17,29,31,33,41, Ibn Jubayr, 31 , 61, 177, 269 Khadija Halim, 280 'Abd al-Qadir al-Gilani, 124 Azdumur, 67, 72,244,298 42,44,47,61,96,123-25, Ibn Khaldun, 133 Khadija Umm al-Ashraf, 213, 'Abd al-Rahrnan Katkhuda, ba, 13, 19 133,256,273,279,282,295, Ibn Sa'id al-Maghrabi, 31,97, 215,299 124,241,241,242,299 Badr al-Gamali, 31, Ill, 124, 297 269 Khadra al-Sharifa, 97,297 'Abdallah al-Dakruri, 67, 278 129,133,134,170 Fatimid Cairo, 11,31,35,170, Ibn Taghri Birdi, 269 al-Khaliq Muhsin, 65 Abu Hagag, 15 Bahaa Jahin, 255 273,277,282,284-85 Ibn Tha'lab, 53 khan(s) , 23,123,175,177, Abu Zayd al-Hilali, 97 Bahri Mamluk, 42, 66, 102, Fatirnid period/era, 11,15,38, Ibn Tulun, 29, 53 276,281,295 Abu Zeid Rageh, 7 124,131,177,260,298 53,129,273-74,297 Ibn Tulun mosque, 23, 28, Khan (family), 79, 80-81 Abu-I-'Abbas, 280 Bamba, 200, 203, 204 fanva, 177,278,295 273,275,283-84,297 khanqah(s), 31, 34, 66, 102, al-Afdal Shahinshah, 124 Bamba Qadin, 199 Fernandes,Leonor,216 Ibn Tulun aqueduct, 29, 31 , 177,182,182,216,220,241, Ahl al-Kahf, II1 Banu Ma'afir, 123,296 French Expedition, 35,131, 38,96,123-24,297 251,256,274-75,295,298 Ahl al-Raya, 28, 123 Banu Qarafa, 123,296 220,252,275,276,299 Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan, 124 Khanqah al-Su'ada, 95 Ahmad Abu Sayf, 213, 215, Barquq, 9,110,176,178,178, Fromentin, 36 Ibrahim Nagib Pasha, 278 Khanqah Nizamiya, 124,241, 299 213,217,220,220,222,223, gabanalgabanat, 123,295 Ibrahim, 125 243,298 Ahmad Amin, 15 241,251,258,279,280,284, al-Ga'fari, 44, 45,123,125, 'Id al-Adha ('Id al-Kabir), 9, khanqah of Khawand Tughay, akh, 13, 19 298 297 19 182 Akhenaten, 14 Barsbay (see also al-Ashraf Gagmaq,222 'Id al-Fitr ('Id al-Saghir), 9, khanqah of Nizam ai-Din, 241 Akhu,13 Barsbay), 210, 213, 215, Gamal al-Dawla, 170 19,129 khanqah of Sultan Barquq, 'Ali 'Abdallah ibn Turki, 251 216,216,217,217,220,251, al-Gamali Yusuf, 222 Idarat al-Gabanat, 259, 260, 178,217,220,251,279-80 'Ali Badr al-Din al-Qarafi, 299 al-Ghafir, 181,251,281 278,280,281,283 khanqah of Umm Anuk, 251 102,105,298 Barsbay al-Bagasi, 213, 217, Gani Bey al-Ashrafi, 217, 220, Ikhshidid, 96,123,297 Khawand Tughay, 182,182, 'Ali Bey al-Kabir, 35, 55 218,219,299 299 Ikhwat Yusuf al-Asbat, Ill, 184,298 'Ali ibn Abi Talib, 15,42,44, Baybars, 41, 175, 177,260, Gawhar al-Siqilli, 170 279,297 Khawand Tulbay, 278, 281 53,123 282,298 gawsaqlgawasiq, 31, 123, 295 Imam al-Shafi'i, 15,31,53, Khawand Tulbiya (see also 'Ali Pasha al-Salihdar, 124, Bedouin, 124, 177 General Organization for 55,259 Princess Tulbiya), 298 182 Bonaparte, Napoleon, 131,275 Physical Planning (GOPP), Imam al-Shafi' i khilwa(s) , 216, 295 'Ali Wafa, 125 Burckhardt, Johann Ludwig, 285 mausoleum/tomb, 9,10,25, khiualkhittat, 28, 123-24, 295 'Arnr ibn al-IAs, 28, 41,48, 133 Grabar, Oleg, 123 28,31,33,33,35,36,48, Kubiak, Wladyslaw, 28, 31, 125,273,275,297 Butler, 123 Grand Bey, 278 55,63,64,65,84,274,284, 123 'Arm (General), 276 Caliph al-'Aziz (Billah), 31, Gukmak,123 297-98 kUllab(s), 211,220,241,244, Amir Kabir (see also 170 Gumada, 44, 295 Imam al-Shafi'i cemetery, 10, 295-96 Qurqumas), 224, 277, 278, Caliph al-Amir, 31,41, 124 al-Guyushi, 97, Ill, 112-13, 25,51,53,255,261,264, al-Laythi, 48, 50, 284, 297 279,299 Chabrol, 125 297 265,280,281,284 Le Bris, Emile, 7 . Amir Lu'lu' al-'Adili, 124 Champollion, 276 Guzal, 198,299 Inal, 178, 181,213,222,224, Lord Cromer, 277 Amir Sulayman, 213, 217, Charmes, Gabriel, 284 habus,274-75,277 226,252,277,278,279,299 de Lusignan, Janus, 215 218,219,299 Church (the Catholic), 17, 18 al-Hafiz,42 Institut d'Arnenagement et Ma'afu, 124 Amun, 14, 15 Clot Bey Avenue, 269 Hagin, 190, 192 d'Urbanisme de la Region Maat,14 Amunhotep Ill, 14 Cornite de Conservation des al-Hakim,31,97, 123, 170, d'Ile-de-France (lAURlF), madfanlmadafin, 36, 123, 131, Anas, 220, 298 Monuments de I' Art Arabe 217,273,275,282 285 295 al-Andalusi, 124 (CCMAA), 11,42, 170,241, Halim Pasha, 281 Isis, 14 Madhar'i,41 Anuk,182 242,252,273,276,277,278, Hallaj,41,111-12 Islam, 12,13-15,17,19,61, madrasa(s), 42, 42, 49, 51,53, 'Asfur, 213, 217, 218, 220, 279,283 hammam(s),23,61, 123, 177, 133,177,282 66,68,69,177,211,213-14, 299 Creswell, K.A.C., 66, 96, 97, 274,295 Isma'il, 36, 55,125,206,255, 214,215,216,222,224,241, al-Ashraf (see also Barsbay), 170,280 Hapi,14 277,299 241,251-52,256,274-76, 215,299 Dawlatlu Afandim Mustafa Harawi,13 Isma'il Pasha Yakan, 74,74,75 282,295,298 al-Ashraf Azrurnuk, 182, 183, Riyad Pasha,84,84,85,87 Hasan 'Abd al-Wahab, 102, iwan(s) , 66-67, 91,99, 182, Maghawri, III 186,198,299 Dhu-I-Nun al-Masri, 49, 110 181 214,216,252,295-96 al-Maghrabi,125 al-Ashraf Gan Balat, 283 Diwan al-Ahbas, 274 al-Hasawati, 55, 57, 61,297 iwan of 'Agami, 280 Mahmud M. Shihab Sanobadhi al-Ashraf Khalil, 41,42,43, le Duc, Viollet, 8 hawsh(es), 264-66, 268, iwan of Manufi, 100, 101, Tunsi,95 66,123,124,278,298 Duchemin, Jean-Paul, 7 269-70,278-82,295-96, 101-102,298 makan, 216 al-Ashraf Qaytbay, 211 Durqa'a, 216, 277,295 299 iwan of Rihan, 101, 102,105, al-Malik al-Karnil, 15,31,35, al-Ashrafiya madrasa, 49 al-Dusuqi, 110 Hen Bey, Max, 101,278 299 298

300 al-Malik al-SaJih, 177,298 al-Muqaddasi, 123 251,263,265,270,278-79, al-Sayyid aJ-Badawi, 65 Tashtirnur, 198, 298 Mamluk(s), 97,102,124-25, muqarnas,61 281,284,299 Sayyida 'Atika, 42, 44, 45, Tawfiq,182,199, 199,255, 131,170,175,177,183,199, Musalla of Khawla, 123, 129, Qebhsenuef, 14 123,125,297 258,299 210,215,217,218,222,224, 170 qubba, 35,42,55, 67,97, 101, Sayyida Kulthum, 123 Tha'lab, 55, 101,298 246,251-52,256-57,273, Mustafa Pasha, 66, 67, 70, 182,183,213,215,224, Sayyida Nafisa, 15,23,25,38, Thoth,I4 275,278,280-81,283-84, 124,298 278-80,295,298-99 38,41,42,65,125 Tulbiya, 182,182,185,298 295-96 al-Mustansir BiIlah, 41, 124, Quraysh, 25, 28, 53, 82,123 Sayyida Ruqayya, 41,42,44, Tulunid, 29, 31,41, 125,297 Mamluk cemetery, 99, 99,101, 133,170 Qurayshi, 53 297 Tuman Bey, 224,283,299 109, 111,251,255,264, Mu'tazalites, 17 Qurqumas, 213, 217, 220, 222, Sayyida Sakina, 42, 44 Turan Shah, 124 281-82,298 Nagm aI-Din Ayyub, 282 224,225,274,299 Sayyidna al-Husayn, 65 Turbat al-Ashrafiya, 252, 296 Ma'rnun al-Bata'ihi,41, 125 Naguib Mahfouz, 281 ra, 14 Service des Antiquites, 11, Turkish, 17,36,44,49,62, Mangak al-Yusufi, 239, Nakir, 13, 14, 19 Raake, Herman, I1 198,276,279 110, Ill, 124,246,275-76, 240-41 Naqib al-Ashraf, 220 rab',23,32,177,213,214, Sha'ban, 15, 19 Turkoman,l77 Manufi,l00-101,101-102, al-Nasir Muhammad, 33, 66, 224,251,274,296 Shadhiliya, 110, 125 Tusun,125 279,298 102, 175, 182,277,282,298 Radwan Bey al-Razzaz, 61, Shafi'i rite, 53, 55, 'Umar ibn aJ-Farid, 25, 84, 109, Manzil aJ-'Izz, 95 al-Nasir Muhammad ibn 67,299 Shagarat al-Durr, 42, 44, 45, 110, 111,116,276,279,284 maq'ad(s), 124,214,252,277, Qalawun, 33,41,42, 66, Raghib, 11,97 124,175,298 'Umar ibn al-Khanab, 177 295-96 170,239,251,277,282,298 Ragon, Michel, 11, 18 Shams aI-Din Qarasunqur, 251 'Umar Makram, 220, 228 maqbara/maqabir, 123,295 NasraJlah, 182,183,186 Ramose, 14, 19 Sharif, 76, 77,77, 78,79 Umayyad(s), 28, 297 al-Maqrizi, 23, 29, 31,110, Nephthys, 14 Raymond.Andre , 7, 31 Sharqawi, 35, 182, 251 , 269 Umrn 'Abbas, 199 123,129,131,133,251,273, de Nerval, Gerard, 36 Rhone, Arthur, 177 al-Shatbi, 110,114, 125,279, Umrn Anuk, 182,251 275,282 Nizam ai-Din, 241 ribat(s), 31,34,66, 124,296 297 Umm Husayn Bak, 251 maqsura/maqasir, 133, 170, Nur aI-Din, 46, 101,101, 124 al-Rifa'i, 205, 213, 217,218, Shawar,124 Umm Kulthum, 53, 297 295 Nur aI-Din aJ-Qarafi, 124 299 Shaykh 'Abd al-Qadir al­ Umrn Qasim, 35 Mannier, Xavier, 277 Oda Pasha, 124 Rifa'iya,216 Gilani,124 UNESCO, 12,282,284-85 mashhad(s), 23, 42, 44, Ill, Old Kingdom, 17 riwaq(s), 214, 216, 252, 296 Shaykh 'Abd al-Wahab abu 'Uqba ibn Amir, 124,297 123,125,295 Osiris, 13-14 Rubil, III Yusif aJ-' Afifi, 199 'Uthman Bey al-Qazdughli, mashrabiya, 91, 133 Onomarus),35,42,51,70, Saba' Banat, 97, 98, 111,213, Shaykhu,241,241,298 67,70,71,124,299 Masih Pasha, 10 1,101-102 110,124,131,182,210,246, 217,218,220,297,299 Shaykhun al-Dimishqi, 280 Van Berchem, 222 Massignon, Louis, 11, 15, 17, 257,273-77,281,295,299 sabil(s), 35, 51,55,74,84,85, Shirkuh, 124 waqf{s)/awqaf, 17,35,36,49, 65,110,112,125 Pepieni,17 94,124,173, 182,190,199, Sidi Karkar, 198, 251,257-58,261,265, Mathaf al-Fann aJ-Islami, 276 Posener, I1 203,203,209,211,214,216, Sidi al-Shatbi, 114, 279 274-79,281-82,295-96 de Maximy, Rene, 7 Princess Tulbiya (see also 220,224,241,241-42, Sidi 'Uqba, 28, 31,32,49, waqfiya, 216, 296 Middle Kingdom, 17 Khawand Tulbiya), 182,182, 251-52,273,283,296, 124,276,284,297 al-Warithilani,275 mihrab(s), 44, 53, 56-57, 97, 185 298-99 Silt; Kulthum Ismat Hanim, World Bank, 282 110-11,125,170,216-17, Prisse d'Avennes, 276 sabil-kurrab(s), 61,177,214, 74,74,75, 125 Yahya al-Shabih, 53, 55-58, 280,295 Ptah, 14 224,241,241,244,275,296 Sommer, Jan, 35 125,297 Mimaut,276 qa 'a(s), 177,295-96 al-Sadat aJ-Baqriya, 55, 65 Sudun, 102,299 Yashbak min Mahdi a1­ minbar(s), 133,275 al-Qabaq,251 al-Sadat al-Shanahrah, 182, Sukayna, 41, 123 Dawadar,251 Mohamrnad Hamza, 11 Qadi Mawahib, 182,182,185 183,186,189 Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar, Youssef al-Qa'id, 255, 257 Montet, Pierre, I1 Qadi Mufaddal ibn Qitabani, al-Sadat al-Wafa'iya, 109-10, 200,200,203-204,203,276 Yunus al-Dawadar, 213, 240, Moses, 28, II1 96,297 124-25,284 Sultan Hasan, 34, 10 I, 241,241 aJ-Mu'ayyad,251 al-Qalqashandi,34 al-Sadat Malkiya, 67 274-75,283 Yusuf al-'Agami al-'Adawi, 67 Mubarak, 170 Qansuh Abu Sa' id, 224, 224, sahaba, 48, 125,296 al-Sultaniya, 101,101,103, Zakariya Pasha Muharram, Mu'fi aI-Din, 41,42,297 299 Saint Louis, 44,124 298 235 Muhammad 'A1i, 36, 65, 65, Qansuh al-Ghuri, 123,299 Salah al-Din al-Ayyubi, 31,49, tabaqa/ribaq,177,216,252,296 zawya(s), 23, 31,33-35,34, 124-25,198,251,257,269, Qarqabi, 110 95,174,274,298 aJ-Tabarnba,96,123,297 49,51,66,67, 124, 183,216, 276-77,299 al-Qasim al-Tayyib, 55-56, SaJem Agha, 275 Taghrid, 31, 125 222,251,275,283,296,298 Muhamrnad Kuz aJ-'Asal, 183 297 aJ-Sakhawi, 251 al-Tahawi, 67,72,124,281 Zayn ai-Din Yusuf, 33, 34, 66, Muhammad, Prophet, 13,28, al-Qasim al-Shabih, 125 al-Salih Ayyub, 33, 124 takiya(s), 124,213,215 67,67-69,298 53,295 qasrlqusur,31,123,295 al-Salih Nagm ai-Din, 177 Takruri, 110,257,296 Zaynab Khatun, 200, 203, 203, Muhammad Wafa, 125 Qawsun,IOI,101,104,279, Sandys, Georges, 35 Tankisbugha, 101, 102, 204 Muharram, 19,295 298 saqyar,279 106-107,173,174,298 ziyara(s), 15,41,296 Muhibb aJ-Din Abu-l Farag, 67 Qaytbay,9,35,66,III,123, Sauneron, Serge, 15, 17 Tanzim, 278, 279, 280, 296 Muhsin (family), 62, 64 172,178-79,181,209,210, Sayed 'Eweiss, II Tarabay al-Sharifi, 238, 241, Munkir, 13, 14, 19 211,211,213-15,215,224, Sayid Pasha, 125 242,244,299 Index of Places

Page numbers in italics refer Birkat al-Habash, 25, 28, 29, al-GhaJib,265 Maqabir Quraysh cemetery, 28 Rosetta,211 to illustrations 34,35,123-24,297-98 al-Ghurayib cemetery, 31,35 al-Maqs,273 Saba' Banat, 97, 98, 111,213, Birkat al-Hagg, 251 Giza, 19,269,276,283 Maragha, 33, 125,297 217,218,220,297,299 al-Abagiya, 269, 284 Bubastis, 15 Greater Cairo, 9, I J, 12 al-Mashahid, 53 al-Sadat al-Wafa'iya, 109-10, 'Abbasiya, 129, 173,220,246, Bulaq, 12, /9,35 al-Haram, 264, 269 Mashriq, 273 124,284 264,279 Bulaq al-Dakrur, 264, 269 Hawsh al-Basha, 33, 55, 65, 65, al-Matariya, 264, 269 Sagha,274 'Abd al-Wahab Street, 181 Cairo, 7, 9-12,15,19,23,25, 299 Maydan al-Qabaq, 251 Saints Innocents, 15 'Abdin,199 28,31,33-36,38,38,41,53, Heliopolis, 12 Mecca, 28, 125, 129, 133, 175, Salah al-Din, 274, 239 Abu Sri' SaJem Street, 91,91, 65,83,88,95,99, Ill, Helwan, 99, 269 176,177,211,251,257,295 Salah Salem Road, 25, 27, 38, 93 123-25,131,173,175, Herat, 101 Miga wirin cemetery, 181, 183, 41,48,66,99,101,102,173, al-'Afifi Road, 181, 198,199, 177-78,181,211,217,251, Hilmiyat al-Zaytun, 269 251,252,258,264-65 181,222,239,244,261 210 255,257-66,269-70, al-Husayn,303 Misr, 273, 295 Saliba Road, 199 'Aguza,269 273-85,296 Husayniya, 129, 131, 170 Misr Bank, 259 Samarqand, 101 'Akka,41,124 Cape of Good Hope, 35 Imam al-Shafi'i cemetery, 10, . Misr al-Qadima, 96 Sayyida Nafisa, 15, 23, 25, 38, Aleppo, 177,224 Caucasus, 220 25,48,51,53,53,255,258, Muqattarn, 23, 25, 28, 31,34, 39,41,65,125 Alexandria, 210, 269 Chapelle Saint-Denis, 36 259,261,264-65,280-81, 96,97,109-11,112,123,125, Sayyida Nafisa cemetery, 27, Amenti,14 Citadel (the), 10,25,29,35, 284 173,252,261,269,280,283, 31,38,38,41,42,47,51, 'Arab Quraysh, 25, 82 101,123,125,173-75,177, Imam al-Shafi'i Square, 27,28, 297-98 264-65,282,284,297-98 'Arab al-Yasar, 255, 284 181,210,239,244,251,275, 258 Musalla al-'Id, 129, 170 Sayyida Nafisa Square, 41 Asia Minor, 241 277,283-84,298 Imam al-Shafi'i Street, 24, 25, al-Muwasla Street, 24, 27, 28, Sayyida Zaynab, J24,264 al-' Askar, 28, 297 Cordoba, 170 27,28,51,61,62,66,69,70, 99 Shari' al-Qadiriya, 48,66 'Ataba,124 Daher,170 82,84,84,93,94,99,124 Nasiriya,274 Shari' el Safa, 125 'Ayn al-Sira, 23, 28,123 Damascus, 123, 170,220,296 al-Imamayn, 255, 259, 263, 270 al-Nasr freeway, 173 al-Shari' al-A'zam, 41 al-Azbakiya, 124 Damietta, 44 Imbaba, 19,269 Negev,251 Shubra,259 al-Azhar, 177,214,251,273, Darb al-Ahmar, 239, 259, 269, Isfahan,241 Nile, 13,25,28,269 Shubra al-Khayma, 259, 269 275,281-82,296 279 Island of al-Fil, 274 Nile Valley, 1I Sinai, 175,261 al-Azhar Road, 181 Darb Guzaya, 255, 257 Istanbul, 110 Palais Royal, 15 Southern necropolis, 7, 12,22, Bab al-Barqiya, 175, 181, 276 Darb al-Sultani, 175, 177,251 'Izab, 175 Palestine, 175,211,222 23,25,26,29,31,33,36,48, Bab al-Futuh, 129, 131,285 Darb al-Wada', 41,44, 125 'Izbit a1-Barquqi, 266, 270 PaJis, 15 96,109,177,263,271,286 Bab al-Ghurayib, 173,251 Darrasa, 179 'Izbit al-Hagana, 264 al-Qabr a1-Tawil,25 Suez, 251,264 Bab al-Hataba Street, 239 Delta, 124 'Izbit al-Sa'ayda, 258 al-Qadiriya, 25, 48, 124,255, Suez Canal, 199, 262 Bab al-Kh3Jq Square, 124 Dimirdash,129 Jerusalem, 125 263-64 Sultan Ahmad Road, 181-83, Bab al-Nasr, 31, 129, 131,285 Duat,14 Kahf al-Sudan, 110,297 al-Qahira, 29, 33, 124,273, 198,206,217,220 Bab al-Nasr necropolis/ceme- Dukki,269 Kairouan, 170 282,297 Suyufiya,274 tery, 7,10-12,35,123,127, Eastern necropolis, 7,12,173, Kamak, 276, 283 Qarafa,15,23,25,27-29,30, Syria,49,66,211,220,252 128,130,131,133,150,156, 173,175-76,175,177, 179, al-Khalifa, 255, 257,259,265, 31,33-36,38,41,48,66,96, al-Tankiziya, 174,174 170,239,255,264-65,268, 188,199,206,217,220,254, 279 97,111-12,123-24,177,251, Tanta, 65 276,284-85,290-92,297 260-62,287,298,299 al-Khalifa Street, 23, 41, 125 256-57,269,273-74, Tell al-Mar 'a. 261 Bab al-Qarafa, 25, 29, 33, 34, Egypt, 7, 9,11,13-15,17,18, Khan al-Khalili, 31,123,276, 276-77,279-82,284, Thebes, 19,256 51,66,123,298 28,29,31,33-35,44,49,66, 281 297-99 Tibr, 25 Babal-Wada', 175,181,239 83,123-25,130,133,170, al-Khandaq,129 Qarafa al-Kubra/Greater Tilul al-Barqiya, 173, 183 Babal-Wazir,173,239,241, 211,215,217,220,251-52, al-Kharta al-Qadima, 48,82, Qarafa,31,53,96,97,123, Tunisia, 251 241 256,258,261,264,267, 257 125,177,269,280,297 al-Tunsi, 27, 48, 93, 255, Bab al-Wazir cemetery, 35,181, 273-74,276-79,282-83, Khawand Talhai Street, 181-82, Qarafa al-SughralSmaller 258-59,266,279-81,283-84· 237,239,246-47,249-50, 295-97,299 198 Qarafa, 31,41,53, 123,269, Turbat al-Ashrafiya, 252 252,255,267,284 Europe, 17, 18,34 Kipchak,210 280,298 Turbat al-Azbakiya, 36 Bab Zuwayla, 35, 41 al-'Ezarn, 35 Kufa,123 Qarafat Bab al-WazirStreet, Turbat al-Gami' al-Ahmar, 36 Babylon, 123 Fatimid Cairo, 11,35,282,284, al-Kurdi (shiyakha), 259 238,241,244,246 Turbat al-Imam, 35 Baghdad,41,49,95, 112, 125 285 al-Kurdi Street, 25, 48, 93, 95, Qarafat al-Mamalik, 181 Turbat Qaytbay, 35 Barqa,251 Fustat,12,23,27-29,31,34, 96,97 Qat' al-Mar'a, 175,252 Turbat al-Riwi'i, 36 Barquq (funerary complex), 9, 35,41,48,96,96,97, Luxor, 15 al-Qata'i', 28, 29, 41,297 Turbat al-Sayyida Umm Qasim, 10,176,181,213,222,223, 123-25,262,264,273,282, Ma'ruf,269 Qaytbay cemetery/turba, 35, 35 258,279 284,296,297-98 Madinat al-Muhandisin, 269 181,210,263,266,270,278 Turbat al-Za'faran, 31 al-Basatin, 23, 27, 35, 259, al-Gabal al-Ahmar, 131 Madinat Nasr, 12,262,269 Qaytbay funerary complex, 9, 'Umar ibn al-Farid, 25,109, 262-63,269 Gabal Yashkur, 28, 297 MaghJib,273 210,211,213,224,279,281, III al-Basatin al-Gharbiya, 255, al-Ga'fari Street, 48 Mamluk cemetery, 10,27,36, 284,299 'Umar ibn al-Farid Street, 84 269 Gala! Road, 131 99,99,101,109,251,255, Qubba (the), 35 Upper Egypt, 15, 124,283,296 Basatin al-Wazir, 25 Gamaliya, 255, 257, 259, 265, 264,281-82,284,298 Qus,175 Volga, 182,210 Bayn Misr wa-l-Qahira, 41 285 Manshiyat Nasir, 173,174,183, Raydaniya, 129,246 al-Wada' Street, 41 Berlin, 283 Gareh, 123 261-65,269 Red Sea, 35,175,251 al-Wayli,259 Bilbays, 124 al-Gaysh Street, 170,285 Mansura, 124 al-Riwi'i, 36,124 Zayn al-'Abidin, 12,265 Birkat al-Fil, 29 al-Gaysh Square, 131 Mansuriya Street, 285 Rod al-Farag, 259 al-Zumr,278

302 GALlLA EL KAOI is research director at the Institut de Recherche pour le Developpement in France. She has a degree in architecture fro m Cairo U niversity and a doctorate in ur ban an d regional planning fro m the Institut d'Urbanisme de Paris. Her cur rent focus is heritage conservation and urban and regional planning in Sout h Mediterran ean cities. She has published several books and art icles on th ese topics.

A LAIN BONNAMY is an architect and award­ winning filmmaker and ph otographer based in Paris. He has a de gree in architecture fro m th e U niversity of Par is VI and a master's degree in cine ma tog raphy fro m th e U niversity of Paris VIII. He specializes in architecture photography, and his cur rent focus is th e architec tural ren ovati on of seventeenth- to nineteenth-century residen­ tial and com me rcial buildings in th e center of Paris.

.Front: The Eastern Necropolis. Back: Detail from a wooden tomb in Bab al-Nasr. Photographs by Alain Bonnamy. Jacket des ign by A nd rea EI-Akshar Printed in EI-.'Ypt ISBN 978-977-416-074-5

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