Iceland´S Greatest 10 Living Wordsmith Belfast Today Does Peace Stand a Chance? 26

2 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003

THE VIEW FROM THE INSIDE EDITORIAL TEARS OF 5 THE CLOWN UNHEALTHY LIVING COFFEE, CHOCOLATE OR SOMETHING STRONGER? 8 FEATURE MEGAS: ICELAND´S GREATEST 10 LIVING WORDSMITH BELFAST TODAY DOES PEACE STAND A CHANCE? 26

LETTERS: 40 MILLION DOLLARS MAUS: STILL THE NEXT BIG THING? 4 SEEK FRIENDLY BANK ACCOUNT 19 THE RETURN OF A ROCK BAND

WHO LAUGHS LAST: THE PEOPLE KEFLAVIK, WE HAVE A PROBLEM: 6 VERSUS OIL 20 A NEAR DEATH EXPERIENCE

COLUMNS: THE ONLY TWO WORDS EVENTS: CONCERTS IN A CLOTHES 12 IN ICELANDIC YOU NEED TO KNOW 21 STORE. A PASSING FAD?

FILMS: A NEW FILM STICKS ITS FOOD: COFFEE, A COOKIE AND SOME 14 HEAD UP FROM THE UNDERGROUND 23 CULTURE, PLEASE

THE HULK SMASHED: A MARXIST GREENLAND: OUR NEIGHBOURS TO 15 INTERPRETATION. CINEMA LISTINGS 24 THE NORTH. ARE THEY INSANE?

MAP PUBS, COFFEE SHOPS AND FIRST WEEKEND OF AUGUST: THE 16 FOOD: ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW? 29 HARDEST DRINKING OF THE YEAR

THE REYKJAVíK GRAPEVINE ISSUE FOUR, JULY 25TH - AUGUST 7TH 2003 Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson Editor: Valur Gunnarsson Co-Editors: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson & John Boyce Production director & listings editor: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson Graphic design: Hörður Kristbjörnsson www.this.is/trendy ([email protected]) Advertising Directors: Jón Trausti & Hilmar Steinn Photographer: Aldís Pálsdóttir Cover by: Aldís On cover: Magnús Þór Jónsson The Reykjavík Grapevine Blómvallagötu 2 Printed by: Prentsmiðja Morgunblaðsins 101 Reykjavík # of Copies: 25.000 Phone numbers: Publisher: 898-9249 Ads: 898-9249 / 869-7796 We are always looking for new material. Be warned, however, that it Articles: 845-2152, Listings: 849-5611 is the fi rm policy of the editor not to pay people for their work. e-mail: [email protected] Photos: Aldís 2 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 4 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 5

LETTERS Feel like bitching about the weather or the prices, need reassurance but your friends won´t talk to you, want to open your heart but even the drunks at your local bar won´t listen, just can´t stop raving about Grapevine or if there´s anything at all we can do for you, you´ve always got a sympathetic ear here in the letters column (especially for the latter). Please send your mail to [email protected], or just stick it in the mailbox addressed to: The Reykjavík Grapevine, Blómvallagata 2, 101 Reykjavík.

Dear Friend, I, on behalf of my colleagues from different Federal Government of Nigeria owned parastatals, decided to solicit your assistance as regards transfer of US$41,500,000.00 into your bank account. These funds emanated from unclaimed contractual proceeds of foreign contracting firms who could not meet their financial obligations to their creditors. We, as holders of sensitive positions in our various parastatals, were mandated by the Federal Government to scrutinise all payments made to certain foreign contractors and we discovered that some of the contractors be transferred into an overseas bank initial caution on our part. have not been paid their contractual account to be provided by a reliable entitlement which collectively left the foreign associate. This is because as Please treat with the strictest sum of US$46,500,000.00 lying in a serving government workers the Civil confidentiality and expediency. suspended account. Service Code does not allow us to Yours faithfully, However, from our investigations, we operate a foreign Account. We require Dr.Sam Obi discovered that the foreign beneficiary a partner that is capable of rendering companies have since been liquidated, assistance and cooperation in executing Dear sir. and to all intents and purposes no this matter. We therefore offer the I refer all international money launderers/ longer exist in Nigeria, thus providing amount of 20% of the entire sum in drug traffickers/arms smugglers to our us with this opportunity, provided that return for services/assistance rendered advertising department. We accept we have a capable partner, to execute a in successfully carrying out this project. cash, opiates and/or weapons grade transaction of this nature. We trust that you appreciate the sensitive plutonium as payment. We agreed that the said amount would nature of this matter and the need for The editor

REYKJAVIK CITY SHOT

The Austurvöllur festival finally starts after several cancellations due to bad weather.

Photo: Aldís

WULFFMORGENTHALER

see more at www.wulffmorgenthaler.com 4 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 5

FROM THE EDITORS

TEARS OF THE CLOWN I was having dinner at Casa Grande parallel with Kenya, when a portly Paraguayan came up where he once worked and started serenading me with his as an actor for a French guitar. Duly serenaded, he invited me company (for a while for dinner. He said his name was Don Egill was the Gerard Felix, he claimed to be a member of the Depardieu of Iceland, band Dos Paragayos, and said he had it seemingly written played Antonio Banderas’ guitar parts in into the constitution Desperado. What, exactly, he was doing that not a film could playing in a medium budget restaurant in be made here without Reykjavík I did not know, but I had to find him having some sort out, and so I accepted. At the very least, of role). He said the I hoped, the man was a decent cook. area he was residing We set the time for Sunday. in was brimming over Meanwhile, I had a country ball to go to. with Stasi refugees, The country ball is almost as much of a who had come over The upper part of Don Felix. Lower part not pictured. tradition as is the drunken camping trip, in droves with the the idea being that drinking in different money they stole in office when the wall ways, realised that money does not bring surroundings will be a vastly different came down. They seemed to have an happiness and swore off the pursuit of experience from being drunk in the usual almost pathological need to document earthly riches. This, apparently, had led ones. everything, and most of them had him on the path to Fossvogur. The band playing was Stuðmenn, built some sort of museum about East His career started at age 11. Growing by far the best goodtime band in the Germans in Africa. He likens this to up on a farm on the border between country, and has been for about 30 Icelanders, themselves refugees who Argentina and Paraguay, he was years. Whereas most pretenders since could never return, and hence busied discovered by minions of Evita Peron �� have contented themselves with singing themselves writing the sagas. who personally presented him with an soppy love songs or simple exhortations Grapevine is not quite sure what to make award. He then shows me a picture �� to party, the Stuðmenn songs, although of the idea that it is descended from of the Spanish royal family, presented often on the same themes, have always the 9th century equivalent of corrupt to him for his humanitarian work, seemed a little more profound. In East German officials, so it is perhaps which is something he has continued to �� between the good time anthems there for the best that the conversation now pursue here, playing for those in need �� is always the sense of looming tragedy, turns to music. Grapevine’s memory without asking for compensation. In �� the tears of the clown that makes is getting a bit hazy by this time, but hushed tones he tells me “my wife is his laughter all the more necessary. it clearly remembers Egill saying that very sick,” with arthritis, it transpires, �� Perhaps their tragicomic masterpiece Stuðmenn were definitely (and defiantly?) for which she is having an operation in �� is the song Slá í gegn, which has the low-culture, despite Grapevine’s the autumn. We have a chicken dinner fist in the air chorus about making it, protestations. If such is the case, then and then the Don sits down to play for �� until it concludes that for some reason they are without a doubt the kings of low- his guests. He shifts in his chair, and it has always been out of reach, a culture. Long may they reign. his magnificent bulge comes into view. sentiment every aspiring artist (and Back in town, hangover receeding, Felix the musician plays an instrumental who in this country isn’t?) knows all too I went to look up the Don. I found he composed to honour Iceland, before well. Another song that straddles the the prescribed address, which Felix the political commentator tells �� often narrow divide between joy and happened to be a community house me that the politicians here aren’t grief is Blindfullur (Dead Drunk), which for the handicapped in Fossvogur. He doing anything for the country. I agree �� again has a chorus singalong tailormade answered me dressed in a jogging suit, wholeheartedly before Felix the social for country balls, before warning about and ushered me into the kitchen. “You critic points out that the problem with the inevitable end of such revelry with look, I teach, I very good teacher,” Iceland is that it’s run by about 25 �� the repeated line “I’m going to give up he told me. Not only that, he is also families. “Glöggt er gestsaugað,” goes drinking tomorrow.” one of the most impressively hung the saying, which might translate as �� men Grapevine has ever “sharp is the eye of Felix.” He says that �� been in the presence of, on the Canary Islands, they managed to and his jogging suit made increase tourists from 2 to 12 million. �� little attempt to conceal Felix the tourism entrepreneur says that �� this. Images of aluminium it is important that the police smile at wrapped cucumbers visitors. I doubt the advantage of living �� started springing to mind, in the Gran Canaries of the North, where �� but Grapevine, always tourists are escorted to bars by smiling wanting to take people in policemen, but given the choice between good faith, did not pursue this and those who want to turn Iceland this line of thought. into the Sheffield of the even farther Grapevine had one of its rare moments of “A Felix production,” he announced north through the mass industrialisation euphoria on the dancefloor, an area that proudly as he presented me with of the highlands, I might feasibly opt for under any other circumstances is best left something that resembled a tiny, hard the former. I counter that Björk has done to those more agilely built. Afterwards, pizza, which in fact tastes better than a lot to put Iceland on the map. At this we joined the backstage party. Sadly, it sounds. “I very rich,” he proclaimed suggestion, the mighty Felix gets out of giggling groupies and mountains of as I munched on it. He told me he his chair, his bulge flowing, in all its glory, cocaine are absent, and even the had a house in Hveragerði and on the downwards into the trouser leg. “Björk fridge isn’t well stocked. Instead, I Canaries, and that Aristotle Onassis not important,” he says. “Felix much find myself having a conversation with had once presented him with a guitar. more important. Felix always speak well singer Egill Ólafsson. He starts talking Sadly, the guitar no longer exists. I of Iceland.” Grapevine, even if it were so �� about the constant need of Icelanders wondered why an international man of inclined, would not dare object. I promise �� to document the past, and wonders why mystery such as him had chosen to live Felix that together we will make Iceland the Sagas were written in Iceland rather in a state-owned condo in Reykjavík. He great. We shake hands and Grapevine than, say, Norway or Denmark, as many answered that when he had been in India goes home to sleep off its hangover, have done before him. His solution, in 1972, playing at a Hotel, he had met leaving Felix, he of the big heart and �� however, is a novel one. He draws a Mother Teresa and seen the error of his even bigger trouser bulge behind.

�� TOURIST OF THE DAY �� Süd Tyrol. them, instead watch them. I think whale �� What in the name of Thor are you watching makes much more sense than doing here? I really like to take pictures whaling, I myself went to watch whales (shows off his rather impressive camera), and very much enjoyed it. and to discover new countries. Should North America be returned Have you been here long? No! Just to its rightful owners, the Icelanders? a week. I managed to travel more than Yes of course, the president of Iceland is 1000 km around Iceland so far, mostly without doubt 10 times better than the along Highway no 1. Still, I am leaving current president of the US; therefore tomorrow. surely Iceland should take over and Have you tried any Icelandic make the rest of the world happier. delicacies? Well, I didn’t eat much out Do you know who David Oddsson is? �� since it is so expensive, and when I did Unfortunately, no I don’t. Well I know who Name: Stefan Ties (on the right) �� I ate mostly junk food, hamburgers and Vigdis Finnbogadóttir is, the ex-president �� How do you like Iceland? It is one of stuff, the junk food isn’t exactly cheap, of Iceland and the first. my favourite countries, I’ve seen many actually it costs as much as a decent Do you know who Bubbi Morthens and it’s one of the best. meal at a restaurant back home, but it is is? WHO? Where are you from? I’m from Italy, cheaper than eating real food in Iceland. Do you know who Keiko is? Yes! The near the Swiss border, a place called Whaling: right or wrong? Do not shoot whale from Hollywood! 6 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003

ANALYSIS

HE WHO LAUGHS LAST: THE OIL COMPANIES AND ICELANDIC BUSINESS Icelanders don’t seem to be too article BY bothered when they’re told that the oil

Capitalism, as Castro realises, doesn´t work on GUÐMUNDSDÓTTIR FILIPPA companies might have stolen several small islands. For it to function, in theory, it needs billion krónur from them, sure we’re angry and shocked, but we all need to competition, and in a small economy it seems move on, some say, why cry over milk inevitable that a few companies come in possession of spilled and money lost? And even if the a virtual monopoly, which is probably why everything companies are fined, the money is going to the government and not back in our here is so damn expensive. Attempts have been made pockets. to stop this trend with legislation, but for some reason There has been surprisingly little the it doesn´t seem to be working very well. Is there discussion about this, and the fact that any hope that we will one day see free and fair trade this has been going on for years. Most in this country? people probably knew there was never any competition, there was something fishy about how all the oil companies charged exactly the same and raised For the past few days news of illegal seemed to go unnoticed. Among the first or lowered their price always at the price collaboration between the three warning signs was price collaboration exact same time. But nobody really main oil companies has dominated the among the insurance companies. This complained, and nothing was done. Esso and Shell, side by side in perfect harmony. Icelandic media, the latest in a long line was first brought to attention when a Photo: Aldís of scandals relating to things such as new insurance company emerged on As deafening in its silence has been insider trading, bribery, embezzlement the market, offering car insurance for listening to members of the government accused the owner of one of the largest might even go to jail. But the bottom and more. Not many years ago a only half of what everyone else was refuse to comment on the matter while companies in the country of trying to line is that customers are going to get report was published showing Icelandic charging. The insurance mafia was quick members of the minority parties have bribe him, the accused said it was a cheated as long as someone wants their companies to be some of the most to respond and lowered their price to been happy enough to give their opinion, joke because he had heard that the money and thinks it’s possible. honest and trustworthy in the world. match this new rival. Ecstatic over this, and while most of them talk, rightly, prime minister could be bought. After Well, while that pretty image has been people praised the competition, but about the incredibly low moral standards all, what kind of a politician promises And I’d love to go and say to the ruined, the revelation was not that we since they were getting the same price of the oil companies leaders, their one of his best friends the guarantee of presidents of the oil companies that they got so spoiled overnight, but rather that at their old insurance company nobody political opponents seem to turn away the government for a loan of 20 billion can take their gasoline and pump it up before, nobody bothered to check if moved over, the new company got no in shame. The interesting thing here and to a company only worth 6 billion? The their *****. But because lack of usable something illegal was going on. business and quit. the awkward part for the government bribery matter died out in only a few public transport forces me to own a And what happened then? Well, the is that the president of one of the oil days, and is long forgotten now. Much car, and since the oil companies were And when I think about it, it’s incredible price went up, and got higher than ever companies is married to the minister like this scandal will be in a few weeks. all in on it together, I guess the joke is that no one saw anything wrong with before. of justice, the highest ranking woman on me. that pretty picture. In a small country And people just accepted this, and said in the government, and probably the I don’t think that this investigation now, where everyone knows each other and nothing. least liked politicians in the country. The however good and useful, is going to where a handful of companies rule the government seems to attract scandals, change anything in the long run, some market, the birth of the Icelandic mafia earlier this year, the prime minister companies may be fined, somebody

NEWS IN BRIEF A report on the cartelizing of Icelandic Competition seems to have increased authorities, he has been grounded in his Weather reporters say it is the best to visit his friends Davíð and Halldór on oil companies has been released. slightly after the raid. room. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs has summer of the postwar era. Monday. Apparently, when he heard that Authorities raided the headquarters of requested that the man be tried by US the US intended to move its fighters the companies and made away with City authorities claim they may press authorities, but the Icelandic Supreme Greenland days were held at Flateyri. A away, he called them and told them that large amount of files. The files show charges, but the Mayor is the former Court has overruled this, insisting he be kayak was stolen, but was found by the for God’s sake, this wasn’t the right time, that the oil companies Olís, Esso and marketing director of Shell, and some tried in Reykjavík. side of the road. causing the US to cancel its action, at Shell were engaged in various illegal have demanded his resignation. least for now. Commentators speculate activities in price manipulation and illegal 3 of the 5 US Navy helicopters at whether Halldór might actually break with collusion. There were also attempts at A man in his 30´s was sentenced to Keflavík have been sent to West Africa habit and smile when they meet. a cover-up and the management seems 5 months in prison for grabbing his in case of US intervention in Liberia. US to have been well aware of its wrong- spouse by the throat. 3 months were public relations officers claim the move A NASA space station is to be built near doing. Some MP´s have gone so far suspended, but in addition he had to pay is temporary, whereas an MP for the Krafla to so that scentists can research as to demand police investigate the a fine of 200.000 krónur. Alliance Party claims it worrying that what life would be like on Mars, since matter, but no charges have been filed. the US is acting unilaterally in what is conditions there are thought to be The US Army man accused of stabbing supposed to be negotiations. similar a local in downtown Reykjavík has been sent back to base for custody. At first he 500 pensioners currently await placing was free to roam about the base but not in homes. The chairman of the society leave it, but after complaints by Icelandic of senior citizens says the situation is

Iceland’s most expensive foal disappeared without trace. Its brother won a world championship in Germany in 1999, and was sold for 12 million krónur. The horse was found dead in a Weather has been intermittedly good ditch the day after, probably the victim of in the capital, bringing tremendous joy an accident. and the beginnings of a tan to residents. A fire was reported in a residential area in Hafnafjörður. The fire department intolerable. showed up, only to find a man barbecuing in his garden, with the result that a lot of The 250 kilos of dynamite that were smoke formed. stolen near Rauðavatn were found by a group of filmmakers. The explosives were untouched apart from one box that had been opened. The culprits have not yet been found.

A Romanian family that has been here for 6 months is to be deported from the country, and will not be granted residence in any other Schengen country. The family belongs to a Hungarian minority group, and claim to be persecuted because of events in the 1989 revolution. The EU has ruled that Romanian authorities do not Police in Hafnafjörður stopped a man persecute minorities, and hence they driving at 202 km/h in a 90 zone. He have been denied residence. A lawyer was stripped of his licence on the spot. for the cultural house calls the decision inhumane. Lord Robertson, head of NATO, is coming 6 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 8 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003

UNHEALTY LIVING

COFFEE still, a twisted clarity of mind and article BY evenlight hallucinations. Most of those symptoms are actually the early signs of “Caffeine-induced organic mental disorder 305.90: Caffeine intoxication” GUNN H. (as described in the Desk reference to the diagnostic criteria from DSM-3- R, American Psychiatric Association, The powers of a man’s mind are directly proportioned 1987). I like to obtain some of these to the quantity of coffee he drinks. symptoms and then go for a walk or -Sir James Mackintosh just ramble on about nothing much at all to my friends while I have another cup. It’s a good feeling that allows you It is well known that Icelanders get drunk every to slip out of reality for a brief period and pass a few pleasant hours, usually weekend, but how do they get through the five at lesser financial cost than to going to remaining days? Grapevine investigates. the movies. This state can be achieved through various approaches but for now Like so many of my fellow legend of how coffee was discovered I will just concentrate on two personal countrymen I hold coffee dear, it is is that a shepherd named Kaldi noticed favourites: A great deal of coffee. the source of my powers and without that his goats behaved in a strange and Photos: Aldís it I’m useless. For the last few years lively manner after eating the cherries of Twin Peaks: coffee has been the constant that the a coffee tree, so he tried it himself and The most effortless way to achieve one hand on the coffee cup. For the embarking on your pursuit, though rest of my world revolves around. A cup also felt alert and full of energy. Today, caffeine greatness is to drink with a solo drinker, music is mandatory. A wide (and to forestall possible litigation) a of coffee in a quiet place is my haven coffee is the world’s most popular reasonably intelligent or interesting variety of music is recommended, as are few words of warning: there is such a in a world of restlessness. Idling, as is stimulant with more than 400 million friend and just drink and talk until he/she wild musical changes such as switching thing as a lethal dose of caffeine. The my want, in a downtown coffee shop, cups consumed per day in the USA or you give up. Music is recommended from Kraftwerks “Tour de France” to LD-50 of caffeine (the lethal dosage it suddenly occurred to me that I had alone and 400 billions cups downed but not necessary, whereas the choice Talking Heads “Once in a Lifetime” and that would kill around 50% of the little knowledge of this magic liquid. A worldwide every day. Scandinavians of partner is the essence of the back to Vangelis´ “End Titles” (Blade population) is estimated at 10 grams state of affairs I determined to put right consume most coffee per capita, more exercise. Choose one who is willing Runner) and then suddenly to Bob for oral administration. However, as is without delay. Coffee has its origins in than 12kg annually (for once, Icelanders to argue and discuss all matters great Dylan’s “Visions of Johanna”. Such usually the case, lethal dosage varies Ethiopia and in fact it has probably been are not at the top per capita, and only and small, and preferably has the same eclectic choice of music will increase from individual to Individual according used by Ethiopians for as long as they’ve in 17th place among Europeans, with the caffeine tolerance level as yourself. This the chance of a successful session. For to weight. For people weighing 50 kilos, been around. The Ethiopians ate coffee Finns in the lead). Coffee represents the is a fairly simple and easy technique and those too far gone to constantly change 7,5 grams is a lethal dose. For people beans with butter as an energy shot for world’s second most important trading one which I experimented with for three the disc, I recommend Blood On The in my weight group at around 90 kilos long journeys, and spiced coffee beans commodity (after oil) and 25 million years with good results, Tracks by Dylan on repeat. Be careful, it takes 14 grams and so on. According are still sold as candy in many African people are employed in the industry. though, of opting for the radio, for a lot to my calculations that equals about 65 countries. The most widely accepted It is one of a few addictives that are Lone Ranger: of pop music these days might do more cups for a person weighing 50 kilos and legal in Iceland, along with Solo drinking is currently my preferred harm than good. Music is the fuel of the about 121 for people weighing 90 kilos, cigarettes, alcohol and method but this technique depends mind and your mind will not run smoothly so try to stay within those limits. Voltaire various prescription drugs upon the individual’s ability to be alone on the crude oil such performances the French author and philosopher ranging from painkillers for substantial periods of time and the produce. Television won’t work either, reportedly drank 50 cups of coffee a to pure amphetamine. ability to remain silent for more than although TV and coffee mixes fairly day. I do not know what he weighed Much like alcohol, the 10 minutes, a trait rarely found among well if you are consuming coffee for but apparently he was a very interesting best way to enjoy coffee caffeine addicts. But for those who recreational or sporting purposes. To person to talk to after taking his daily is in extreme quantities. In think they can handle it, preparation become intoxicated by coffee, however, dosage. fact I feel that moderation is necessary. Before you begin it´s is a full time job and in my experience So where does my rambling ode to the is hugely overrated. important to eat something, for we must television will distract you from your joys of coffee leave us? Is coffee and The desired effects of a not let hunger interfere with our higher ultimate goal. Serious drinking means caffeine the key to the gates of paradise magnificent consumption state of caffeine fuelled consciousness. serious commitment. Those are my two and endless happiness? Or is it merely a of coffee are: Periods of You’ll also need reading material and most basic techniques but essentially simple pleasure for simple minds? I do inexhaustibility, a rambling music. Start with something simple to their goal is the same, to drink as much not know and do not care as long as they One wonders whether this caffeine addict is experiencing a flow of thought and speech, read, like Grapevine, and then work your coffee as you can and thus, consume the have it wherever it is I go when I die. twisted clarity of mind. general excitement, the way up to more serious publications or greatest amount of caffeine possible. impossibility of staying books, but remember to always keep So go ahead and give it a try. Before

THE SWEET STUFF WHATEVER PUTS THE JAM IN YOUR DOUGHNUT Iceland’s relationship with sweets type of food colouring used in the pickled ram’s testicles and sheep heads, my hometown of has long been a strange one. For the red pieces. This meant that the only we just don’t have a clue when it comes Hafnarfjörður where most part it seems we tend to think of means we had of obtaining that much to edibles. they have the Apollo blatantly commercial, 100% American coveted confectionary was to buy it Iceland’s brightest moment was, liquorice factory. There, brands of sweets and cereals as duty-free. Anyone coming from abroad no doubt, when we discovered the you can buy a huge bag somehow distinctively Icelandic. General was therefore obliged to bring back combination of chocolate and liquorice. of irregulars for loose Mills´ Coco Puffs (or Kókó Pöffs, as it’s a bag and would rise to high status On their own they are fine, but together, change. Which should affectionately known) is so ingrained within his family for as long as the candy the experience is truly mindblowing. put the b into your bowel in our culture that a whole generation lasted. Even though M&Ms are now “Draumur” and “Kúlu-súkk” are excellent movements. of people, now in their late twenties, widely available it still holds a special examples of this beautiful tradition. I am In closing I would like grew up on it. The bugle shaped snack place in our collective sweet tooth and convinced that this is what Iceland will to point out the yummy people rarely fail to bring a bag through go down in history for. website www.nammi.is. customs. The liquorice fetish can also be found There, foreigners and We have the same quirks when it in Scandinavia, but is absent in most Icelanders overseas comes to soda, particularly Jolly Cola other parts of the world. To think that can order all sorts of and Spur. An unremarkable soda really, these poor people might never know Icelandic delicacies Jolly Cola is a Danish brand and still the joy of drinking coke from a bottle like: Blue Ópal, widely available there and in the Faeroe with a liquorice straw! This obsession Malt&Appelsín, dried Islands, where it’s their biggest seller. of ours with liquorice might explain fish, Bleikt & Blátt (the Spur, however, is much rarer and only why Icelandic has an abundance of only Icelandic semi-porn spoken of in hushed tones - legend has metaphors for bowel movements. magazine), hotdog Surgeons eventually discovered its chloroform content was it that it can still be purchased in remote No discussion about liquorice would mustard, miniature insufficient for anasthetic effect. towns in the south of Portugal, under be complete without mentioning Blue Icelandic flags (sigh) heavy guard by the ferocious natives, Ópal. These small liquorice pills actually and of course good old indeed some of those who have gone contain a small dose of chloroform. This Icelandic Coca Cola. sludge that the Icelandic band Botnleðja “Buggles,” pronounced böggles (like looking for it have never been seen is the reason for the pleasant smell and also known as Silt) takes its name. Muggles from the Harry Potter books) again. the slight burning sensation in your SPECIAL ICELANDIC SODA RECIPES is, despite appearances to the contrary, Ever since the US Army first came mouth when you eat a bunch at a time. FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS: Malt & Appelsín treated as if it were an old Icelandic here, showering children with Juicy Fruit It is reputedly illegal in Holland (of all Ammæliskók (Birthdaysoda) No Christmas or religious holiday delicacy from the fifth century, and then chewing gum and the like, we have places), but is held in high regard at an There are at least two known kinds of in Iceland is complete without this there’s Prince Polo, the Polish wafer milked a part of our national identity underground cinema in Amsterdam, the Birthday soda. One is made by taking beverage. It is comprised of non- biscuit which has inexplicably melted its from foreign brands of sweeties. Why owner regularly making trips to Iceland every soda brand in the party and alcoholic malt extract and orange soda way into the affections of Icelanders and is this? Quite possibly, it has to do for the sole purpose of buying blue mixing them all together into a nectar of and is brown in colour. Mixing Malt & I would need the whole article to truly do with the limited variety available to us Ópal. What he probably doesn’t know mysterious pleasures. The other is the Appelsín, also known as Christmas ale, its impact upon Icelandic culture justice. through the years. When there are only is that the dose is insufficient for any accidental Birthday soda where crumbs has been an established custom for The sale of M&Ms and Skittles was so many types of crisps and cereal to anaesthetic effect. from the birthday cake are slobbered more than 40 years and shows no sign banned in Iceland from the mid 70´s choose from, people are likely to get For more information about back into the bottle creating sludge at of letting up. until the mid 90´s, due to the 1976 attached to the few brands they can get. liquorice you can have a look at the bottom of it. It may or may not controversy that arose about the Or possibly, being a nation that still eats http://www.licorice.org/. Or go to interest you to know that it is from this Ragnar Egilsson 8 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003

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FEATURE ARTICLE

GODLIKE GENIUS DEVILISH GRIN Photos: Paldís playing in a concert hall. The poster Súkkat leave the stage and the Gay Birds article BY is supposed to reflect the difference do a few numbers of their own, including between how capitalist and communist one song in Italian, a language of which GUNNARSSON VALUR There are so many questions. Why am I here, is there societies treat their artists. These days, they seemingly know where little, but

a God, why is there so much suffering, what can I do Photos: Aldís the strip clubs of Russia are filled with they manage to name check Mussolini, trained ballet dancers unable to find Ciccolina and various culinary delights, to make the world a better place, why do bad people employment elsewhere after the state before somewhat ingeniously rhyming always seem to have more sex than good people? To stopped sponsoring them, whereas in Don Corleone with Silvio Berlusconi. find the answer to these questions and many others, the West, teenagers are auditioned, But no one has forgotten what we placed into pop groups, taught a few are here for, and finally comes the including which is the more profound comic character, dance moves, stripped of most of their anticipated moment when the Master Batman or Spider-Man, and what happened to the clothes, videoed and made rich beyond takes the stage (sadly, at this time stolen treasures in Iraq, we called Megas, songwriter their wildest dreams before being Grapevine is in the bathroom, so the abandoned to their drug addictions once following description is entirely fictional). and sage. the money stops rolling in. The lights go out, and the room becomes In Iceland, as in most civilised deadly quiet. A low chanting of childlike countries, we are outraged by our voices is heard, ever escalating, then greatest artists on occasion, but mostly suddenly stopping. A terrible thunder we just ignore them until they die, after is heard as the heavens part, angels which we worship them like Gods. and demons flutter about, each playing Megas´ works have rarely stormed up a different instrument, laughing and the charts, and he has sometimes had shrieking and dancing about on tables difficulty releasing his albums due to lack and above peoples heads. Then a flash of financial backing, but lately he seems of light blinds everyone, and as we slowly to have been vindicated to some extent, regain our senses an aging man with as in 2000 he was voted by the nation to protruding ears and a guitar slung about be the second greatest wordsmith in its him has appears on stage. He begins to history, second only to Halldór Laxness sing. It is as senseless to try to explain and beating Snorri Sturluson. His entire in words the joy of listening to music as catalogue was rereleased in 2002, it is to describe the taste of wine (“oak remastered and with bonus tracks, and earthy nose, barnyard dusty palate, the most ambitious rerelease series good length,” anyone?), so I won’t. undertaken in this country so far. Campness from Elvis to Batman Mussolini, Ciccolina and the Gay Birds The minutes seem to pass satanically slowly as I stand waiting outside Hotel Meanwhile, our artists can always find Borg, feeling that combination of dread expression on the second floor of and anticipation usually associated Grand Rokk. The room, seating some with first dates. Finally Master arrives, 200 persons after the tables are taken apologizes for his lateness and out, is cramped and very, very smoky. courteously motions me inside. He Opening act Súkkat is a duet comprised explains he had something he had to of two cooks, as renowned for their finish, and Grapevine hopes its intrusion subdued stage appearance as for their hasn’t smothered some masterpiece in witty lyrics. The crowd is noisy, drunk infancy. and impatient, but Súkkat show their Finally, the moment has come. Able mettle and, defying convention as well to ask anything I want, I am bereft of as logic, before the set is over the crowd inspiration. “Why do you write songs?” is singing along They then announce I find myself saying. the next band, Geirfuglarnir (a penguin “Presley was one of my two saviours, like bird hunted into extinction on these but unlike him I didn’t have access to “Elvis was every taboo, wore gay shores in the mid-1800´s, yes, we did it material, so I had to write it myself.” to them and we’ll do it to the whales), “And the other one was?” clothes, moved like a stripper and as the Gay Birds. The Gay Birds back “Laxness. I listened to him read them up on the last two songs, and by Gerpla on the radio as a child, and I was raped the microphone stand.” now the crowd is wholly on their side. glued to the set with the book in front of

Grapevine does not know what to is full of tales of innocence lured to the dockworker and finally went to art school expect as the phone is picked up. Will big city, as generation after generation from where he got a degree. He was Master answer in verse or prose, quoting of Icelanders moved to Reykjavík, finally cajoled into making a comeback in pearls of oriental wisdom, the Sagas or leaving entire towns abandoned. Once 1986, with the brilliant album Í góðri trú the Bible, or will he answer cryptically, there, however, instead of the realisation (In Good Faith), and has been recording leaving Grapevine to discover the of their dreams, they find drunkenness, and performing frequently ever since, meaning itself? murder, prostitution and heartbreak. also writing a novel, a play and even “Yes?” says the voice. “Megas?” But the album is also an extended love translating the stage version of Irvine asks Grapevine somewhat stupidly, as letter to his city (it’s his, we might as well Welsh’s Trainspotting. the voice is very distinctive and well admit it), filled with adventures among He has spent time in Thailand, and known from hundreds of songs. “Yes?” the abandoned bunkers in Öskjuhlíðin made his first trip to the United States in the voice repeats. “I’m calling from and the fair in Vatnsmýri (defunct since 1990, playing “Got a Lot of Living to Do” Reykjavík Grapevine,” I manage to blurt 1963). along with the Sugarcubes and Mexican out, before becoming silent with awe at His first album, released in 1972, is Elvis impersonator El Ves at an animal the moment. Here I am, holding an old an iconoclastic tour de force of Icelandic rights benefit in New York. Nokia cellphone, and at the other end of history. Among the cast is first settler the line is Master Megas himself. Ingólfur Arnarson, lamented for his Profoundity or a pint? Megas is almost as old as the unfortunate discovery of the island, Republic, born in 1945, and the country last Catholic bishop and national hero Megas agrees to meet me on one has grown up with him. His 1990 semi- Jón Arason, who loved young girls as condition. “I am broke”, he says, “so autobiography, Sól í Norðurmýri, is a much as God and the pope, and national you buy the beer.” Grapevine is not in wonderful prose poem about growing poet Jónas Hallgrímsson, the syphilitic the habit of buying girls drinks, even “Spider-Man always annoyed me. It’s up in Reykjavík in the post war years. drunk whom it is not safe to let into your though it knows that this sometimes Through Megas´ works you can witness house. entails the tiniest possibility of leading that damn aunt of his. You just want to the transformation of Reykjavík from Megas made a string of brilliant to sex, but this time, it seems like a the small town of his childhood to the albums in the 70´s and did a lot of drugs sound investment. Still, it is ironic that punch her face in.” gritty urban area portrayed on his before retiring after having released the greatest artist in the country cannot 1987 masterpiece, Loftmynd (Airview), a final album, Drög að sjálfsmorði afford a drink. A Soviet propaganda released in honour of Reykjavik’s 201st (First Steps to Suicide), recorded live poster shows on one side a wretched anniversary. The album (which features in 1978. He disappeared from public troubadour playing on the streets, and Björk on very apparent backing vocals), view, stopped doing drugs, became a on the other a well dressed violinist 10 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 11

me, feeling a sense of thrill whenever he behaviour must have been known here at suspected. not interested in that, so he’s not made arrive, and God spits on the ground. made any changes to the text. At the some point, but had been forgotten and “And so it will be until our old stepmother for relationships. And sensitive men can The US government, of course, knew very same time, Elvis was just beginning. replaced by rudeness. It’s amazing that Earth, who has killed almost all life just forget about it. Women have shown what was about to go down, in much the He was anarchist in behaviour, he was they actually wrote predesigned reports. on earth several times, gets tired of time and again that they’re not interested same way as the Nazis knew about the every taboo rolled into one. He had a These claim that it wasn’t corruption, being raped and brings an end to this in that sort of thing. You can be that for burning of the Reichstag, but did nothing homosexual haircut, he dressed like a only a few tarts selling themselves, or experiment too.” yourself, it relieves a lot of stress, but to prevent it. Once they could point their homosexual, he moved like a stripper worse, doing it for free. But these men “But is there anyone directing the out amongst people you must put up a finger at the enemy, they could go about and every song resembled rape in the would sell their own grandmother, and experiment?” front. If you can’t be cool you get beaten abolishing human rights and getting rid way he used the microphonestand not even hand her over once they had “It is up to ourselves what we do, up. But if you have a menacing look in of their enemies. To reach to power you as a partner. There aren’t any colour gotten the money, and then sell her over but there is no thought, no bald Matrix your eye, you can avoid conflict.” need to be a bastard, and what is good if pictures of him, the ones that we have again.” scientist behind it all.” this is the government?” are in black and white, or counterfeited So, there is no God. It all boils Why revolutions are hopeless colours. We don’t get to see him as he The Heart of the Matter was, dressed in a red jacket and green Icelanders, it is true, are very much in the trousers. If we had, styles would have habit of beating each other up, especially changed a lot earlier. He sang white when drunk, and the Sagas speak of trash in a negroid manner, but it worked people who were killed just because they both ways, the white man began to could be. But yet attempts have never sing black and the black man began been made at revolution, despite this to sing white. This is the reason why seeming propensity for violence, ideals about equality managed to brake Master speaks: “There have been two through and why events did not turn out uprisings in Icelandic history. One was that much worse when schools were when the label of the Brennivín bottles integrated. When white people played was changed, and people protested and black songs, the teeth were pulled out refused to buy it.” of the music. But Elvis still had bite, “And the other one?” and brought unadulterated black music “It was when the nation sat at to the masses, and hence recognition home on the 1000 year celebration of of blacks. So when schools were Christianity in 2000. Not very active integrated, it was because of Elvis.” rebellions, perhaps, but nonetheless...” “So what can we do? There’s no one Master has spoken, and his incisive “It is very much like Icelanders to worth voting for and all revolutions seem intelligence has begun to illuminate protest against the small things and to accomplish the opposite of what they things. “One of your other loves is comic ignore the big.” set out to?” books,” says Grapevine, attempting to “Exactly. No one expected any “The good guys are always by nature drag the conversation down to its level. trouble on the 30th of March (the riots weaker than the bad. The victory of “How do you like Spider-Man?” that broke out in 1949 when the Icelandic good is never more than symbolic, and “Spider-Man always annoyed me. It’s government joined NATO), but yet, just in then only in retrospect. When the Nazis that damn aunt of his. She is portrayed case, they trained a group of men, the were beaten in World War Two, they were in such a manner, probably reflecting white guard as they were called, and beaten with Nazi tactics, so fascism tension within the writer, that it irritates the people found to do the job were won, and so completely that almost the the reader so you want to punch her Icelanders who had been in the SS and entire staff was flown to Washington to face in. She is a very good portrait of were transported home from Norway at continue their work. Then came the someone who pretends to need help, but the end of the war. How do they respond Korean War, which was a good dress is a master of instilling guilt if everyone then, if they are really threatened?” rehearsal, as was Vietnam, which was doesn’t sit and stand as she wants. This “Well, these days people are carpet bombed into oblivion. To save type exists. But Batman is a much becoming more radicalised than they it they had to destroy it. Everything is better venue for philosophical thought, have been for a long time,” Grapevine and ever changing, yet still using all the opinions hopefully. But Master has seen elements of the Batman myth created it all before. by Bob Kane, just as the theatre of the “But then the same thing will happen middle ages tended to use the same over again. CIA diverted money to characters over and over. them, to know where they had them. Grapevine does not know much They then became dependent on CIA about medieval theatre, but Batman is Building the Twin Towers is a far financing, which could be stopped at something it understands. “Have you any time. Protesting is a very expensive read the Dark Knight series?” greater insult than Tower of Babel business.” “It was a return to the roots, We are now reaching the heart of the cutting out the campy humour that had was. And God is still active. matter. “What is to be done to make the characterised him for so long. Batman world a better place? What can we do?” had become very gay, but once he had “There is nothing we can do. There become more evil, lurking in the night, is no us and them. They are us and we he seemed less so. Everyone is insane, are them. People protest against the both he and the criminals, although he is industrialisation of the highlands, but so insane that there’s not anything to be on the opposing side, two sides of the they won’t mind once it’s taken place. said anymore.” same coin. He is always playing a form Perhaps we can put up some cardboard “So the only thing the sensible of Russian roulette. It’s not self contempt cutouts of nature in the summer for the person can do is to resign himself from so much as a general contempt for tourists.” everything, and try to ignore it?” mankind. Comics often escape the And so it is. In the end, successful “Well, you can try to express your censor, because they are considered revolution is out of the question, because opinions as clearly as possible, and give too irrelevant. So they often get away it is our own greed and, frankly, stupidity those who are still struggling ideological with biting social critism. In Hollywood, that we are up against. weapons. But everything is just so the studios tend to censor themselves, insane. Bush comes to power through but ways are found to get through. In How George Bush stole history forgery and fake vote counting. Under the Eisenhower era, gays could have any other circumstances, other power a laugh because authorities were that Master continues: “The existence elites would have protested over the deaf and dumb. Some Like It Hot is of Bin Laden is open to doubt, a CIA dubiousness of the election. He had extremely gay, and a film worshipped by spy that pops up when needed, if not done what a politician is not allowed to gays, but no one else seemed to realise in Afghanistan, then in Indonesia, and do, drugs, but he became born again, so its implications.” doesn’t seem to exist otherwise. If you that’s alright. Christian fundamentalism don’t have the enemy you need you must The similarity between Caligula and create him. The Nazis said that if they Icelanders hadn’t had the Jews, they would have had to invent them. Saddam Hussein, From Jack Lemmon in drag the however, existed and is probably still conversation turns to social critism. alive and protected to some extent by “Poverty is increasing. People are the population. fooled with the carrot “good times are “The Robin Hood, or John Wesley coming,” so they invest heavily and Harding of Iraq?” unsoundly. Everyone becomes heavily in “No, he’s done too much wrong. debt, and have no choice but to continue But the people probably prefer a local being where they are, doing the jobs they dictator over foreign occupation. For do. It was the same in the old farming instance, the day after US troops society when people where literally entered Baghdad, artefacts from the banned from moving about. National Museum popped up on sale in Nero and Caligula were New York and Rome.” Prozac or sex? down to sex, then, if reproduction is both men who were reasonably sane “Stolen by the US?” is also a good excuse to hate 95% of the only way we can reach immortality. before they came to power, but then “This has been claimed. Who else humanity, although he´s probably not Grapevine has learnt a lot that afternoon, How should this be conducted? Should suddenly become raving mad. A bit like would be able to put them on sale right Christian at all.” but still is no closer to discovering the we get married or should we sleep Icelanders. In most countries, it takes away? The Iraqis wouldn’t, even though “But isn’t sarcasm powerless to fight road to eternal happiness. So far, it can around? Some claim that marriage kills absolute power to corrupt absolutely, they might have wanted to. It is an old this? There have never been as many imagine but two possibilities. Loads creativity. but here a little power is enough. tradition to plunder a conquered country. satirists let loose as during the Weimar and loads of sex, or, failing this, a lot “This was always obvious,” says People like Jónas frá Hriflu (mid-20th This is the cradle of civilisation. It is Republic, but they failed to laugh Hitler of Prozac. Master. Relationships can bring you century Progressive Party politician, interesting that Bush was so interested in of the stage, who was the one man who “Oh Master, lies the road to eternal some beautiful moments, but those parodied in a Megas take on Dylan’s destroying the birthplace of civilisation, seemed deadly earnest. What can we bliss in taking enough prescription drugs games should always be ended when John Wesley Harding) espoused Nazi-ish and thus changing the history of ideas, do?” so that you are rid of this endless craving they reach their climax.” art, even after the war, and he was also when he’s chopped it into pieces and “You can make fun all you want, and for sex?” “Is this why you’ve never gotten responsible for putting the girls who had shipped it out.” some people will laugh, but then evil “Prozac and sex are mutually married?” associated with American soldiers into “But aren’t there religious reasons as clenches its fist and punches your teeth exclusive. If you’re getting rid of your “No, that’s just because I’m concentration camps. Of course, it was well, in bombing Babylon?” out.” sexual urges, you’re going contrary to impossible to have about the house. men who ran the corrupt government, “God has already taken care of So there you have it. Everything is the point of it all. You have peace, but The creative person is dedicated to his and women tended to be victims. One of Babylon. And he’s active elsewhere, hopeless. Grapevine leaves genius to you have no purpose anymore. In the work and doesn’t care about anything the reasons Icelandic men took second too. Building the two Twin Towers in do its brooding, somewhat wiser but end, reproduction is our goal here on else. He cannot sit still on a couch with a place to the soldiers was Icelanders honour of money is a far graver insult necessarily happier. earth. There isn’t any other.” It is as I beer in his hand and watch TV. He’s just complete lack of courtesy. Gentlemanly than the Tower of Babel. Two planes 12 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 13

COLUMNS

“HEYRÐU!” - “HA?” FUNDAMENTALS OF THE ICELANDIC LANGUAGE

Just the other day I listened to two nature off. Nowhere in Radio X presenters (einasta radióið sem the books, however, rokkar, in case you have forgotten) as will you find the few they spent considerable time pondering words that are the true over the variety of ways people greet foundation stones of each other in different languages. spoken Icelandic. They seemed to enjoy particularly the The very first thing French ‘Ca va?’ - ‘Ca va.’, with its mere you have to do if you exchange of punctuation marks, and want to conquer the the impossibility of battling the ultimate language is to take some full stop of ‘Iamfinethankyouhowareyou. breathing exercises. In ’, a sentence which might pretend to be Icelandic, it is not enough a question, although neither the person to say ‘yes’: you have to asking nor the person asked is likely to take a deep breath at the give a damn. same time. The result I remember quite distinctly my is a ‘yaah’ which to an first encounter with the Icelandic ‘how unsuspecting ear sounds are you’. I was an autodidact who had like a futile attempt to started learning the language because gasp for air, as if you Many newcomers have sustained injuries during I liked the funny Icelandic characters were choking on cocoa premature attempts at pronounciation, but so far fatalities have not occured. my computer had such a hard time powder, drowning, or coping with, no matter what encoding had just gotten the shock I used. At that point I had never in my of your life, catching your macho word will prove particularly useful at the life been to Iceland or even near it, so boyfriend wearing your bra. beginning of your studies, when you will the first time a genuine Icelander asked Having mastered the physical need each Icelandic sentence repeated me ‘Hvað segir þú?’ [How are you, aspect of Icelandic, you may proceed three to four times then eventually translated literally: What do you say], to vocabulary building. By far the translated into English. ‘Heyrðu’ and ‘ha’ will see you through 99% of all your Icelandic When I was first asked “Hvað segirðu,” communication. They seem to be I though the person was deaf. expressions unique to Iceland; I can only think of one equivalent outside Icelandic and it is a crying shame the I was totally confused and thought he most frequent Icelandic word seems two syllables of ‘heyrðu’ prevent the was either deaf or not very clever, and to be ‘heyrðu’. Quite flexible in its word from appearing where it belongs, in all my innocence I answered ‘Ég segir application, translating sometimes as especially when other languages have ekki neitt’ [I am not saying anything]. It ‘listen’ corresponding to ‘well’ but often to make do with lame substitutes such was his turn then to wonder which of us has the weight of ‘now thou shalt listen as ‘Hear! or ‘Lo!’. I therefore strongly was dumb. (for there is a great idea coming)’. When recommend that, metric constraints or Icelanders are secretly proud of their addressed with ‘heyrðu’, you must not not, the Icelandic translation of Beowulf complicated language. Textbooks of only turn to the speaker and await open the way it does in Old English: Icelandic will of course brag about further instructions; you are also to ‘Heyrðu!’ the four cases and weak and strong establish audial contact, and you can declensions on their opening pages, do so with number two in the Icelandic Beata to scare students of a less masochistic corpus, the popular ‘ha?’ [What?]. The

URBAN MENACE Being the mild mannered type, who would rather join a ladies league than gun a man down, there are not many subjects the discussion of which can significantly raise my blood pressure. A most definite exception is Icelandic drivers. First I have to lay my cards on the table and confess a natural bias in this area. A) I don’t possess a vehicle of any kind, B) I don’t have a full or even a provisional licence and C) I don’t even know how to drive. Well, if pressed, I could probably transfer a car from point A to point B but, I assure you, it would not be pretty. Car culture rivals the United States in its intensity here on this modest island. In fact, both A and B of the above are deeply frowned upon while C, I should imagine, is probably a criminal offence. The number of cars per head of population exceeds It was never actually determined who got there first. most European countries despite high Photo: Aldís prices. Practical necessity is undoubtedly a tempt Icelanders from behind the wheel. for drivers, judging by the absence of factor. In the countryside, in particular, This is bad news for the city authorities unimportant details like footpaths and people learn to drive from a very as concern grows over increased pedestrian crossings in some less early age. Indeed, my rural in-laws congestion and rising pollution in the salubrious parts of town. It seems that reacted with astonishment when they capital. Take a stroll down the main the slamming of the car door unleashes the beast in the breast of the normally docile Icelander, and then it’s every man To an Icelander, a car pool is the place for himself. As you attempt to make an where you can take your vehicle for a undesignated but unavoidable crossing the oncoming traffic appears to make refreshing dip. a quick time cost analysis; is it quicker discovered that I had not been motoring street any day of the week to witness to run you over or let you pass? Most since the age of four. Astonishment a contributing factor; an endless drivers remain in two minds as they turned to stupefaction when I unwisely procession of slow moving cars graze your toecaps whizzing by. And revealed that at the age of 29, I still populated by a single individual. While that’s just the summertime. had not mastered the simplest of motor other countries have devised innovative As the autumn light fades so vehicles. strategies to improve the car-to-human does hope as we, the undriven, resign Ever aside from the practicalities ratio, such vocabulary has yet to reach ourselves to that inevitable equation of of life here, Icelanders are very much these shores. To an Icelander, a car winter. Big car + large dirty puddle × in love with their cars. Even massive pool is the place you can take your bad driver = one very wet pedestrian. improvement and expansion of the vehicle for a refreshing dip. Reykjavik public transport system would not was obviously a city planned by drivers John Boyce 12 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 13

WHERE ARE THEY NOW? SOME ICELANDERS WHO TRIED AND FAILED TO CONQUER THE WORLD

The Sagas often take pains in gap. Made his first stab at world fame (At the Gym) in 1984, and scored a hit remained out of reach, so he returned pointing out how well received with Change, who appeared on British with Megi sá draumur. He released the home to participate in various other Icelanders were at the courts of television dressed like the Bay City album Dawn of the Human Revolution classic rock groups, most notably kings and chieftains. It seems Rollers. Were since called the girls as a solo artist the following year, and Trúbrot (Broken Faith). Still lives in his Icelanders have always measured from Iceland by the few who had heard the song Can’t Walk Away became a native Keflavík, is married to former themselves by how foreigners perceive of them at all. But Björgvin (Bo as he is Christmas hit. Miss Iceland, and plays in a band with them, and no one can really be sure affectionately known), undaunted, made H a v i n g his two sons. Applied for the job of bass whether anything is truly good until another stab at world fame when c o n q u e r e d player with the Rolling Stones when Bill they’ve been praised by people abroad. he participated in Eurovision on Iceland, he Wyman left in the mid nineties. Was No one in this country was actually sure behalf of the nation in 1995. went back turned down. Managed to have the last Björk could sing until she started getting Tragically, he failed to win to Hollywood laugh of sorts, as the Thor´s Hammer praised by the British music press. No and currently voices over in 1993 to material has become a much sought one was even sure Halldór Laxness coming attractions record a could write until the Swedes took a liking commercials on Channel video for a to him and sent him home with a prize. 2. song of the For some merely asking tourists the ever same name popular “how do you like Iceland” will not the inevitable drug bender/rehab/mellow Herbert Guðmundsson he had written suffice, and every so often you see album about wife cycle. Lost his hair, had been a ships cook there on his an interview with some local celebrity become born again, previous outing, on vacation in London or New York, and did a number turning pain into apparently on the verge of world fame, of commercials, poetry. Currently who then comes home again in time for including ones for runs the ice cream Christmas and the escapade is never Visa, Hagkaup and store Stikkfrí (Síðumúli 35) mentioned again. Before the days of B&T car dealership. and and works as a travelling book Björk, several attempted and all failed. Currently hosts a record salesman, but his fan club, The These are but a few: boxing program on store employee HG Club, is still going strong, churning Sýn TV channel. before going out T-Shirts and badges and even Bubbi Morthens was first spotted to Hollywood in organising a mini festival at Laugarvatn. in 1980, when his debut album B j ö r g v i n search of fame Ísbjarnarblús came out, chock full of Halldórsson was a and fortune. Rúnar Júlíusson was in the mid-sixties anthems for fishing industry employees. massive pop star/ Neither was found, the king of the Iceland scene. He was Fronted a series of rock groups such as sex symbol in the so he returned bass player and vocalist in the country’s Utangarðsmenn (The Outsiders), Ego late 60´s and early to Iceland and most popular band, Hljómar (Chords), and Das Kapital, and made a memorable 70´s. Such mania joined the band played in the national football team appearance in the Rock in Reykjavík did he inspire that Kan, which soon and dated Miss Iceland. But too much concert film. Went to America to teenage girls were became the is never enough, and he went on to become world famous, was offered the known to break their biggest live draw attempt world domination, renaming the after collectors item in Japan, and has part of Thor in some Z-film on condition teeth attempting to of the West Fjords. band Thor´s Hammer for international since been rereleased on CD. that he did steroids, opted for cocaine imitate his adorable They released the consumption. Despite dressing up as instead, came home and went through front tooth dental album Í ræktinni Vikings on occasion, world domination Vladur 14 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 FILMS

PASSING THE WORD ON USSS whether Arnie and his robots will eclipse this story of two Reykjavík losers remains to be seen. The film starts intriguingly enough with a woman approaching a man lying in a bathtub with a chainsaw. We then meet a couple of cops, who pick up an Afro-Icelander to use for target practice. Said Afro-Icelander without major embarrassment. The seems remarkably nonchalant about policemen are deliciously over the top his fate, but whether this is due to stoic bad guys, and there are no good guys to calm or lack of dramatic ability is unclear. sympathise with, but the amorality of it The other main characters are a couple all is quite acceptable from an indie film of losers who run a used record shop, and quite amusing. The script is very whose paths cross with aforementioned much written around the realities of low policemen as well as a nasty kiosk clerk, budget film making and the settings had What drives a man to donate hours leading to an inevitable bloody climax. to be in locations available for shooting and days and months of his work Of the six main characters, five of in the evening and on weekends. The without hope of financial gain is beyond them are played by friends of Eiríkur, plus plot is as crude as the camerawork, Grapevine, which is sure its check is still an uncle of a friend who has previously but is sprinkled with often entertaining in the mail. 28 year old Eiríkur Leifsson had walk-on parts in some films. All of dream/story sequences, and certainly has done just that. He started writing the the leading actors performed in between manages to hold on to your attention. script of “Ussss” in the winter of 2000 day jobs as photographers, students A nice touch is the bullet-through-a-man (incidentally the snow heaviest winter in and cement workers, but some have -and-then-a-vagina-on-a-poster shot.A Iceland since 1957, which may or may since gone on to study acting. The subplot about a serial killer girlfriend not have inspired indoor productivity). policemen´s uniforms were borrowed might, however, have been better left Shooting commenced in August from a retired officer and the serial out. It is all a bit Tarantino, as are most 2000, and took about 6 weeks. Post numbers taped over, while their vehicle films from new directors these days production had to be put off for a year is Eiríkur´s mothers Landcruiser. (although it resembles the wonderful while the scriptwriter/director worked in The film quality is shoddy, but once Danish Tarantino inspired work, I Kina construction to finance it, having already you get past this, the film is actually Spiser De Hunde, even more), and mortgaged his house. The film was surprisingly entertaining. The actors whether this is parody or homage is finally ready in the autumn of 2002, but might not be winning any Oscars for their unclear, but in the end it doesn’t matter, again had to wait while cinemas decided performance (then again, considering as it is never dull. Against the odds, upon a slot to fit it in. It was finally the performances that do, they just then, this is one for the street. premiered on 17th July, incidentally might), but they all look the part, and on the same day as Terminator 3, but manage to get through their roles VG

PHONE BOOTH It was with that dreaded sinking His call is cut off by a sinister voice that feeling that I watched the opening seems to know all about him, can clearly scenes of Joel Schumachers latest see him in the box and who threatens offering, a slightly extended music to shoot him should he try to leave the video complete with break dancers phone booth. which looked suspiciously like time And just about here it all starts wasting. Why, I asked myself, would a to unravel. What follows is a series 91 minute flick need a five minute pop of clichés, from the irate hookers promo filler. The answer, a desperate screaming to use the phone to the need for cinematic padding, was, as it ensuing siege style showdown. A turned out, one of the many potential towering leading man to anchor the problems you face when you set a film film might have partially saved the day. moment too soon. Whitaker´s appealing almost entirely in a phone box. Sadly Farrell largely fails to convince in character and his solid performance The initial premise seemed promising a difficult, static and wordy role. lends some badly needed weight enough. Farrell plays a faintly sleazy Farrell’s task is not eased by a to the proceedings. However, it not two-timing young turk named Joey, a flaccid, repetitive and more than ultimately enough to save a disjointed fast talking publicist who bluffs and occasionally embarrassing script. and strangely unengaging film. And, of charms his way around New York City. After about 20 minutes of increasingly course Schumacher, to whom subtlety Conducting an affair with Katie Holmes, tiresome verbal jousting between is a dirty word, directs in customary he has taken to calling her from a public Farrell and “the voice,” Forest Whittaker sledgehammer style to drive the final phone booth so that his calls to her arrives in the guise of a cool headed nail in the coffin. won’t come up on his mobile phone bill. and perceptive police chief, and not a John Boyce

NOVOCAINE FROM THE RENTAL Steve Martin is back in the dentists Perhaps it says something about the chair, or at least overseeing it, for the state of moviemaking these days that first time since Little Shop of Horrors. seeing a film which doesn´t drag you Helena Bonham Carter seems at first through a collection of scenes that you to be reprising her Fight Club role, but constantly feel like you´ve seen before instead of cruising support groups, towards the inevitable happy ending she goes to dentists and beds them fills you with joy and love for your fellow (or, more to the point, chairs them) in man. The fallible, but still occasionally exchange for prescriptions. brilliant Martin delivers his best film in Steve Martins character seems to quite some time, in his first semi serious have it all, he´s a successful doctor role since the promising but ultimately with his own practice and his girlfriend disappointing Spanish Prisoner. But looks like Laura Dern, so it´s hard to this film manages to see its premise see what attracts him to the misfit through, rather than frustrate towards Bonham. The only excuse given is his the end, which seems like no mean feat desire to do it in the chair, which his these days. The dentist metaphors are girlfriend refuses to oblige him in, or a particular joy, and this is certainly one perhaps its just a case of opposites of the few films in recent memory that attract. This, of course, unleashes a has a man playing with his penis and series of events that tears his perfect a dental minicamera as a pivotal plot life apart. Fortunately, that is one of twist. the few predictable things about his film. VG 14 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003

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CINEMA LISTINGS THE FOLLOWING CINEMA LISTING IS FOR DATE OF THE HULK PUBLICATION (JULY 25). EXPECT SOME CHANGES A man is in the habit of waking up this matters, though, because when scientists, preventing them from curing IN THE NEXT TWO WEEKS not knowing where he is, torn clothes Banner turns green he looks, well, like a diseases, probably in much the same or naked, aching all over and not computer generated travesty. When the way heads of companies meddle in remembering anything while friends say Hulk himself fails to convince, it doesn´t the creative process of artists and he´s been a monster. Sound familiar? really matter whether he´s hanging on cartoonists. David Banner wants to No, this is not a film about the trials and fighter jets or jumping upon the Golden put an end to flag waving and armies, and tribulations of an alcoholic (unless Gate Bridge. The all too obvious mix seemingly the mad scientist is the metaphorical) but The Hulk, Hollywoods of live action and graphics makes you only sane person in an insane world. latest Marvel Comics adaptation. In think of Mary Poppins rather than Jekyll Bruce perhaps represents the masses the long opening sequence we see and Hyde. It is somehow assumed that caught in between, the masses that David Banner, Bruce Banners father after the advent of CGI, anything can be can smash the military power of the dabbling in genetic research, genetics put up on the screen, whereas most establishment if they want, but are being the new atomic energy of strange of the time, CGI looks like CGI. Lou instead drugged with sex in the form and terrifying powers, infecting himself Ferrigno painted green was far more of Jennifer Connelly (as well as religion and his son. This is probably meant effective. Perhaps it would have been and TV, of course), and is always bribed to make the story more plausible, but better to concentrate on the drama and back into complacance at the very in a story about a man turning into an leave the monster out. moment it could be overthrowing the angry green giant, plausibility does not Proceedings are enlivened somewhat establishment. David offers him an seem of prime importance. In a nod to by Nick Nolte as his mad scientist father, opportunity to really change things, the comics, Banner Jr. is also infected the one charismatic character, and the but the Hulk denies both great power with Gamma radiation and the Hulk is one you wind up routing for in the three and responsibility, probably hoping to born. Eric Bana seems to have been way struggle between himself, the Hulk be left alone with his girlfriend if he is chosen in the leading role because of and the US Army. One can´t help but no longer a threat to society. Just as 4, 6:30, 9 & 11:30 pm 4, 6, 8 & 10 pm his tremendous chin, which probably think this is intentional. The Army is led the duel between the two seems on the had the CGI department drooling at by heartless bastard Thaddeus Ross, verge of capturing some of the thrill and Charlies Angels 2 4, 6, 8 & 10 pm the prospect of turning him into the who even refers to Bruce Banner as wild imagination of the comic book, the Legally Blonde 2 Premiers July 30th monster, while Jennifer Connelly plays collateral damage, a nod to the Army´s story ends. Which is a shame. It has Betty Ross, one of those unbelievably traditional disregard for the suffering of much to commend it. It´s just a pity it Bruce Almighty Premiers August 8th gorgeous science chicks that only individuals, and yes, there is something didn´t work better as a film. Call for showtimes seem to exist in the minds of Hollywood gratifying about seeing M1-A1´s being casting directors. Particularly annoying thrown about the desert. It is the VG Laugarás phone: 553 2075 is the constant split panelling. None of Army that meddles in the affairs of 16 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 17 C I T Y G U I D E

GRAPEVINE IN YOUR POCKET THIS PULLOUT HAS ALL THE INFORMATION ONE MIGHT NEED, SO FOR A SAFER JOURNEY, PULL IT OUT AND PUT IT IN YOUR POCKET LEAVING THE CITY café If you’re not going to hitchhike your way out of 1. Te og Kaffi town and you haven’t got a bike, there are three Laugavegur 27 ways to do it. Because of it’s small entrance, it easy to miss while walking by. Being not only a café, but also a gift shop, it is well worth the visit. It’s Reykjavik’s answer to Starbucks, with a large selection Rent a car of coffees, teas and everything you need to consume your coffee at home. The café itself may not be the best place to sit A comfortable way to if you can afford it, renting a down in, but does great takeaway. car for 24 hours can cost anywhere from 6.900kr (89$/83EU) with insurance and unlimited mileage. 2. Ráðhúskaffi City Hall You can rent anything from a four wheeled aluminum With view over the city pond, Ráðhúskaffi is situated inside tin can (usually a VW Polo) to a huge Motor home/ Reykjavíks City Hall. Coffee and great cakes as you enjoy the VR, jeeps are also available. Car rentals are situated view. Free internet access for costumers and around the corner inside the City Hall, you’ll find a big 80m2 model of Iceland. in most of Iceland’s larger towns, e.g. Reykjavik, Akureyri, Ísafjörður, Selfoss and Egilsstaðir. You 3. Grái Kötturinn must be at least 20 years old, and you must have Hverfsgata 16a Grái Köttiurinn is across the street from Iceland’s National been licensed to drive for at least one year at the Theater and very small and very popular in the early hours of the time of the rental. The rental company usually day. A good place to start a day the British way, with eggs and require payment by credit card.. bacon and other traditional breakfasts on the menu. The lunch menu is also inviting.

Taking the Bus 4. Kaffitár Reykjavik’s main bus terminal is BSI (www.bsi.is). It Bankastræti 8 The colors of the Rainbow meet you when you enter this café on opens at 7:30 (9:00 in weekends) and closes at Bankastræti, with a different color on every wall. It’s small but has 19:00. BSI’s bus routes go all around Iceland, at a good coffee and tasty side dishes. rather reasonable price. It’s one of these places that make you want to sit down and watch daily life go by on one of downtown´s busiest streets, or simply The buses are accurate and usually on time, a just to read the newspaper. big advantage, but the time between trips from one place can sometimes vary from a few hours 5. Súfistinn Laugavegur 18 to a couple of day’s, a disadvantage for the less The only no smoking café in the centre and always crowded. patient. Being inside Mál & Menning bookstore on Laugavegurinn is it’s You can also check out BSI’s guided tours either at biggest advantage. You are allowed to pick up books, magazines and newspapers from the bookstore, and read them there over a their website (www.dice.is), or simply contact the cup of coffee and/or a snack. bus terminal. 6. Mokka Skólavörðustígur 3a Get airborne An Icelandic tradition since 1958, Mokka is the oldest café in There are two airlines that handle Iceland’s Reykjavik and the first one to make coffee with an espresso machine. Mokka celebrated its 45th birthday on May 24. The domestic flights, Flugfélag Íslands (Air Iceland) and walls are covered with art for sale and seats usually filled by the smaller islandsflug We recommend you visit loyal customers. their websites for more info on their fairs and so on. 7. Kaffivagninn Both airlines are situated on Reykjavik airport in the Grandagarður 10 center of Reykjavik. Flying to Akureyri, usually costs By the harbor where fishermen and sailors along with bus drivers around 7.500kr (100$/90EU.) and flights to all and old badasses gather for lunch and a cup of coffee. If you want to try out traditional Icelandic food, pancakes or bread destinations are frequent, often up to three times a covered with smoked lamb this is the right place although you day, but If you think you’re going to be enjoying the might feel slightly apprehensive about the tough old guys, don’t view on your way, you will be disappointed. worry! They’re not going to be the last thing you see in this life. www.flugfelag.is 8. Café Paris Austurstræti 14 www.islandsflug.is Situated in the heart of the city with view over Austurvöllur, its spacious, popular and usually full. Offers you light meals and -and of course you can always walk. the opportunity to sit outside when the weather is nice. Middle aged Icelanders on every other table, and tourists in between, the usual crowd, Café Paris is international like the city it’s named after. S P O T T H I S 9. Tíu Dropar Laugavegur 27 The Volcano show: With the exception of Mokka café, Tíu Dropar is the oldest café in downtown Reykjavik. The place has a very special feel to it, Red Rock Cinema the decor, the tables and the chairs, along with the service Hellusund 6a makes you feel very much at home, it’s almost like your sitting down for a cup of coffee in your grandma’s kitchen. The menu 101 Reykjavík is limited, but has the advantage of constant changes, with new p: 845-9548 items every day. bar and bistro (most are cafés too)

10. Café Victor Hafnarstræti 1-3 Spelt with a c rather than with the more traditional k in order to be more cosmopolitan. This ploy seems to be working, as the bar has become something of a hangout for foreigners. The Viking ship sitting on top of the house might also add to the appeal. The crowd is very mixed, both in origin and age, and so is the music. 15. Cafe 22 atmosphere is lifted up in weekends with live jazz music, a rare best place to go. Laugavegur 22 sight in downtown Reykjavik. Recommended for those who want 11. Hverfisbar Originally a gay hang out now it’s a place where you can pass to have a chilled night out and take it easy. 25. Coffee Shop 11 Hverfisgata 20 through all the stages without leaving the building, from chatting Laugavegur 11 Very long queues to get in, and once there, you wonder what on the first floor, dancing on the second, to passing out on the 20. Vegamót Owned by the same people as 22, and sort of its little brother. the fuss was about, or whether the queue was the best part. third, where the atmosphere is more of an intimate late night Vegamótastígur 4 Usually has decent rock music and a pretty good jukebox if you’re It is said that a picture tells more than a thousand When it’s four o clock on a Sunday morning and you’re still going one. Still maintains the feeling of being a place for people who Wants to be the in-spot to be seen, and is just that. Dress up, still not happy. Foosball on the upper floor, and if you ask Gústi strong, this might be the place you’ll wind up, by which time words. If such is the case, a video would tell a don´t necessarily fit in anywhere else, which makes it a great flaunt it and enjoy the view as others do the same. It’s a jungle the bartender nicely, he might perform the house trick for you, you probably won’t care that the same song seems to come place to hang out. in there, and the fittest, or at least the fittest looking, come which is putting a match into his mouth and pulling it out of his few thousand more. Most of the sights of Iceland, on every half hour. out on top. nose, and if you meet him on a good day, he might even put a pen such as Gullfoss and even Geysir, can be explored 16. Kaffibarinn into one nostril and take it out the other as an encore. Watch out at little or no danger to life and limb, although the 12. Grand Rokk Bergstaðarstræti 1 21. Kaffibrennslan for slam poetry nights first Thursday of every month. wallet might wind up aching. Volcanic eruptions Smiðjustígur 6 Kaffibarinn is cool Reykjavik, or at least tries to be. Reykjavik Pósthússtræti 9 A place true to Rock ‘n Roll, leather, long hair and bands that don’t can be an exception to this rule, besides being prides itself on having more artists per capita than any other On the sober side of town, but ironically with the largest selection 26. Kaffi Kúltur do covers. Well known and less known Icelandic bands play for capital in the world, and the crowd here seem to be trying to of beers in Reykjavik, good coffee and even better service, (and Hverfisgötu 18 often inconveniently timed and located for the free (free drinks for band members, need I say more?) usually no prove the point, with musicians, actors and writers, and a whole imagine, we’re not getting paid for saying this). One of these For those who grow tired of seeing nothing but palefaces about traveller, although you might get lucky, what with less than three bands a night, four nights a week. Grab a beer lot of wannabes. You can’t say you’ve partied in Reykjavik unless cafés/bars that should fit all, the editors admit they drink coffee town, Kaffi Kúltur might be a pleasant diversion. During the day more than 10 eruptions in the past 50 years. But and rock on! During the day this is a hangout for chess players, you’ve partied here, although civilians might have a hard time here more often than they should. its something of a hangout for the actors from the National if you´re not, then The Volcano Show might be challenging each other and anyone that might wander in here for getting in. Blur´s Damon Albnarn owns a piece of this one wisely Theatre, just across the street, but in the evening it is populated a game. Some of them seem to have finally decided to abandon the second best option, quite apart from being figuring it was cheaper than paying for drinks. 22. Celtic Cross by both new and older Icelanders. They have multi-ethnic food participation in the outside world in favour of the afternoon Hverfisgata 26 and frequent concerts. Wednesday night is tango night. Anyone very close to the centre of Reykjavík. It is a fi lm drinking and chess. 17. Sirkus Arguably the bar in town that comes closest to deserving the title can join in, but this is not a place to learn. program consisting of footage from all eruptions in Klapparstígur 30 of Irish, even though the Dubliner tries harder. Except for the Iceland since the Mt. Hekla eruptions in 1947-48, 13. Sólon Weird inside out and the tropical forest painted on the outside coffin in the back, it’s very much alive. Live music almost every footage shot under dangerous circumstances by Bankastræti 7a gives you a hint of what’s to come. It’s Reykjavik’s underground night and middle aged philosophers asking themselves questions One size fits all is what this place is going for, and it’s usually a clubs the presenter of the Volcano show, Villi Knutsen, wildlife in a small cage, it’s kinda like someone threw a party at about life during the day, over a pint of beer or a cup of coffee. very crowded pick up place. Somewhat expensive, and whether home, and things got a bit out of hand... months ago. It’s as and his late father. The show is divided into two it´s because of this, an attempt at masculinity or just general tiny as an apartment for two and the second floor looks just like 23. Prikið 27. Spotlight parts, the fi rst part covers all eruptions in Iceland despair, people have been known to jump from the second floor someone’s´ living room. Cramped, but the bathroom queue is a Bankastræti 12 Hafnarstræti 17 in the past 50 years, while the second part is a balcony. This is not recommended, as a broken leg is most often good place to meet people. Always a classic, no matter if it’s early on a Monday morning With perhaps the exception of the Vatican, every self respecting special on the eruptions in the Westman islands the result, and the girls remain duly unimpressed. or very late on a Satuday night, Prikið makes your day (or night city has at least one gay club, and this is Reykjaviks. Gay, bi or simply curious, are supported by a crowd that’s there and the birth of Surtsey, an island south of the 18. Nelly’s if that’s your thing). Nice coffee, better music and remember 14. Kráin Þingholtsstræti 2 to dance, if you can manage to take advantage of the very to dance rather than to make moves (If you know where I’m Westman islands that didn’t exist before 1963. Laugavegi 73 Has just changed management, so what will happen now is limited space going). Cool happening club and likely to be entertaining unless Open every day, all day with fi rst show at 11 An atmospheric place, which has its regulars and and is sadly anyone´s guess. All we can do is hope they maintain their policy you’re particularly prudish. o’clock. The duration of each part is one hour. one of few places that has Kronenburg on tap. A rather quiet of being the cheapest bar in Reykjavík. 24. Dubliners Crowd: 20+ place to chat on the weekdays, and troubadour plays there every Hafnarstræti 4 weekend. It also has occasional jazz piano concerts. 28. Gaukur á Stöng Admission: 750 ISK for one hour program, 950 19. Little Central The city’s main Irish pub, which, as in many cities, means that Pósthússtræti 17 it´s a hangout for all sorts of foreigners. At the weekends Tryggvagata 22 ISK for 2 hour program and 250 ISK for the Little Central is both small, central and cosy. It’s situated in there’s also a large influx of locals, often of the slightly older Iceland’s oldest club is turning 20 this fall. During the day it’s Historical Film Show a cellar near Austurvöllur, just behind the church. The quiet variety. If you like the darker stuff on tap, this is probably the a pool pub and on weekday evenings there are often live rock 16 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 17

Reykjavík has no trams trains or subways, only to pay more for your ride. The driver can not change in the morning, and last call is around 24:00. The main buses. These yellow things can take you pretty much your money. For those of you used to the honesty bus stops in Reykjavik are Hlemmur and Lækjartorg anywhere in Reykjavík’s suburb areas. It’s a slow system, this system is as honest, because if you don’t (see map), there you’ll be able to get all the information system and you might have to change buses a couple pay, you don’t ride. You can ask the driver for a free you need. of times to get where you want to though usually time limited exchange things run smoothly, and on time. The price of a single ticket, if you need two fare is 220kr, for an adult, (60kr for children under buses to complete your 12). If you are in town for more than a few days then 9 journey. ticket package for 1500kr would be a better bet. Bus The bus system is closed HOW TO USE cards valid for two weeks a month or three months are during the night, you can also available. You have to pay as you step on board catch your fi rst bus and it has to be the accurate amount, unless you want between 6:40 and 7:00 PUBLIC TRANSPORT

at the Corithia Nevskij Palace in St. Petersburg. Ask Chef Jeff Tunks ower of the fabulous DC Coast in Washington DC. Ask USEFUL NUMBERS anyone who is somebody in the culinary world, and they will tell you about Siggi Hall, Iceland´s famous chef and television Car rentals personality. Siggi Hall has presented Icelandic gourmet food all over the world. His television show is very popular and so are his ALP 562-6060 cookbooks. The Siggi Hall restaurant at Hotel Odinsve is one of Avis 591-4000 the 100 best new restaurants in the world according to Condé Budget 567-8300 Nast Travel Magazine. Need we say more. Europcar 591-4050 40. Argentína SBK Car Rental 420-6000 Barnsstígur 11a “A dark cavernous, off-beat restaurant called Argentina...””A Internet Cafés steak house where the lamb has killed the beef..” and “a gastronomic delight.” are just few of the impressive compliments BSI, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 101 Rvk. paid to this restaurant Ground Zero, Ingólfstogi, 101 Rvk. David Rosengarten wrote in his American Newsletter not too long k-LANið, Laugavegi 103, 101 Reykjavík ago: “Lots of chefs in Reykjavik riff on local lamb, but if you want to see it in its most pristine form, you can dine at Argentina.” Ráðhúskaffi, City Hall 101 Rvk. There are few places in Reykjavik where you can simply sense the Netkaffi, Kringlan mall 103 Rvk. deep passion for simply prepared seasonal foods. Tourist information center, Lækjargata 2, 101 Rvk. 41. Tapas Vesturgata 3b Post offices For those with a bit of money and time on their hands, the evening Central Post office, Pósthússtræti 5, 101 Rvk. can hardly be better spent than at Tapas, where you can vile away Post Office, Kringlan Mall, 103 Rvk. the evening having course after course of wonderful miniature dishes served. Particularly recommended is the garlic fried lob- Laundry Services ster and duck in apricot sauce. If afterwards, you don’t feel like getting up right away, there’s also a rather large lounge to lounge Embla Laundry, Barónsstígur 3, 101 Rvk. in, and the paintings are worth a look. Taxi services Borgarbílastöðin 552-2440 fast food BSR 561-0000 Hreyfill 588-5522 42, Nonni Hafnarstræti 11 Useful for emergencies The owner is a miser, so always count your change. Having said Emergency phone 112 that, this is almost certainly the best junk food in the Greater Reykjavík area, and quite possibly farther a fi eld. The subs are Information 118 great, none of that Subway commitment to healthy living, and Dentist 575-0505 they probably contribute signifi cantly to the ever increasing “size” Doctor 1770 of the nation. They also serve burger and sandwiches, and have good lunch time offers. Pharmacies (find your closest) call 118

43. Serrano Phone companies Hafnarstræti 20 Landssíminn 800-7000 A new place right next door to the above. A Mexican themed eatery, but light on the chilli. Slightly cheaper and lighter on the Og Vodafone 599-9000 cholesterol, but somehow not quite as fulfi lling. Still, you can get a large burrito and Pepsi for 599, which is one of the cheaper Rent a bike ways to fi ll your belly in this too expensive town. Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, 101 Rvk

44. Hlölli BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur, 101 Rvk At Ingólfstorg Tourist information center, Lækjargata 2, 101 Rvk. Where Nonni used to work before he went solo. The original, but not necessarily the best. They have a somewhat larger selection Useful Websites of subs, and of different sizes, but somehow manage to be slightly on the soggy side, and miss the heavenly Nonni sauce. www.icelandtourist.is www.visitreykjavik.is 45. Bæjarins bestu Tryggvagata They claim to have the best hot dogs in town, and for once the Select swimming pools product lives up to the hype. Ask for one with everything, and Laugardalslaug, Sundlaugarvegur, 105 Rvk. you’ll get a dog in a bun with ketchup, mustard, remulade (don’t Sundhöll Rvk. Barónsstígur, 101 Rvk. ask), fried and raw onion, the standardized Icelandic hotdog, only better. Embassies 46. Pizza 67 Canada Tryggvagata 26 Túngötu 14, 101 Rvk. 575-6500 The local pizza chain that’s trying to take on the world, and who currently operate a place in the Faeroes, as well as nation Denmark wide here in Iceland. The have a Summer of Love type theme, Hverfisgötu 29, 101 Rvk. 575-0300 which doesn’t really extend beyond the names of the pizzas, a France few slogans and a few posters, but the pizzas are nice. They also do deliveries. Túngötu 22, 101 Rvk. 551-7621 Germany 47. Kebab Laufásvegi 31, 101 Rvk. 530-1100 Lækjargata 2 The only kebab place in downtown Reykjavík, surprisingly. Does Norway not really stand comparison to more established kebab places Fjólugötu 17, 101 Rvk. 520-0700 on the continent, but its presence gives Reykjavík a more United Kingdom international, rather than just Americanised, feel. Laufásvegi 31, 101 Rvk. 550-5100 48. Waffl e Wagon United States At Lækjartorg Laufásvegi 21, 101 Rvk. 562-9100 Sort of comes and goes like an apparition. One minute its there to serve you its delicious, chocolate soaked Belgian waffl es, the next it’s just the empty pavement. Close your eyes and pray, and it might appear before you.

49. Eldsmiðjan R E V I E W S B Y concerts. On weekends there is usually a lot of action with the late 18 hundreds, the Apotek is now a modern restaurant Bragagata 38a Restaurants cover bands playing everything from Britney to the Beatles. with Art Deco Interior. You can still see the names of the chief 36. Sommelier Oven baked pizza’s simply don’t get much better than this. It is Sonny Greco Without exception you’ll be charged at least 1000kr for entrance managing pharmacists/owners on the wall of the bar. Today, this Hverfi sgata 46 slightly more expensive than other pizzerias, but well worth it. in the evenings. “drugstore” serves a different type of milkshake. Now look for a The Sommelier not only has an excellent menu – Icelandic A wide selection of toppings, including that sorely missed pizza Bars, clubs, bistros, cafés and fast food Crowd: 20+ sizzling visual kitchen (behind a glass wall) with a Super Menu! cooking with delicate French Touch – but the Sommelier wine list delight, snails. Also delivers. The Editors Apotek is an eating experience not to be missed. is admired for its variety of specially selected wines. The service Map 29. Nasa is impeccable and the waiters take time to discuss the qualities 50. Vitabar by Austurvöllur 33. La Primavera of each and every wine listed, if you wish. The wine list has two Bergþórugata 21 Bjarki Þór Kjartansson Used to be a theater, but is now a club. New in Reykjavik’s Austurstræti 9 hundred entries ! This is were you may just happen to meet stars Actually a bar, but best known for its hamburgers. A burger with nightlife and it seems that there was need for it. Great sound Everybody laughed when we discovered a contemporary of stage and television, if you´re lucky ! fries for 500 is one of the best meal deals in town, but special system and occasional live bands. Most come to dance and restaurant that has its most notable infl uences from Northern mention must go to the Forget-Me-Not blue cheese and garlic space out. Because of little competition it is perhaps the only Italian cooking but using local Icelandic produce. The unique 37. Hótel Holt extravaganza. The Viking beer always feels particularly cold. super-club downtown. Admission 1000 krónur. menu that results from this combination features homemade Bergstaðarstræti 37 pastas, risotto, gnochi, polenta and a wide variety of the An exclusive hotel housing Iceland’s Most Renowned Restaurant, 51. First Vegetarian (Á næstu grösum) 30. Leikhúskjallarinn freshest vegetables, fi sh, poultry, meat and game. The menu, the Gallery. Laugavegur 20b Hverfisgata 19 the atmosphere and a comprehensive, exclusively Italian wine An evening at The Gallery Restaurant remains an unforgettable Used to be called One Woman Restaurant, as there was always Recently opened again and is gaining respect, It’s a Restaurant list has made La Primavera a favorite among the locals. They experience, if your passion is good wine and food. The superb the same woman working there. Has new owners and a larger during the day but a dance place during night (weekends of laugh no more!! cuisine is inspired by French culinary tradition and includes a staff, but the theme is still vegetarian, with one vegan and one course). The crowd here is usually little more mature then in the variety of Icelandic seafoods and organic lamb. The impressive wheat free dish always on offer. The only vegetarian restaurant other clubs. Talented DJs play with the drunken crowd. 34. Við Tjörnina selection of vintage wines is unique for lovers of the grape. licensed to carry beer and wine. Remains on the right side of the Crowd: 25+ Templarasund 3 This is where you will see original Icelandic art, without having 1000 krónur bill at lunchtime, slips slightly over in the evening. The most novel fi sh restaurant in Iceland. The owner, Chef Runar to go to a gallery. The Holt has the largest privately owned art Marvinsson, is known for innovative fi sh dishes made from a collection in Iceland. 52. Grænn kostur restaurant variety of rare fi sh and shellfi sh and related raw materials. Mr. Skólavörðustígur 8 Marvinsson is also a respected food and cooking personality 38. 3 Frakkar Located in a parking lot, which is actually not as bad as it and the author of several cookbooks. His respect for his raw Baldursgata 14 sounds. Claims to be the only vegan restaurant in Reykjavík, and 31. Einar Ben materials is a tribute to fi sh and shellfi sh, showing off their natural This is a restaurant that cannot be ignored. A very small place is frequented by visiting rock stars so inclined, including hardcore Veltusund 1 goodness without artifi ciality. Chef Marvinsson is really a natural with an atmosphere. Here you may enjoy the house specialties band Sick of it all. Has a selection of fairly reasonably priced Full of 19th century charm the restaurant Einar Ben is named wonder and a particular favourite with Icelanders!! of Icelandic traditional dishes prepared in the good, old-fashioned specials of the day, and some delicious cakes you can devour after one of Iceland’s fi nest poets, Einar Benediktsson It is manner, including catfi sh, shark, and whale steaks. And of guilt free. Watch out for Antonio the cat, so called because he’s situated in the older section of Reykjavik’s mid-town, close to 35. Humarhúsið course much more. If you´re lucky, Chef Ulfar Eysteinsson, stocky as a Latin lover, the only customer who gets treated to the harbor. A fi ne menu features a contemporary version of the Amtmannsstíg 1 the owner,may be present regaling the clientele with wild milk based products. Icelandic international kitchen. The Menu is composed by Chef One of the most popular places in Reykjavik or should we say whaling tales Bardur Brandsson, whose magic is outstanding. The food and Iceland, - a gourmet restaurant in the heart of Reykjavik. The Don’t forget to ask Chef Ulfar for dark Icelandic pumpernickel 53. American Style the old Einar Ben. Atmosphere is something you can’t miss. A kitchen has a menu with various types of shellfi sh, lobster and bread with pure Icelandic butter. Skipholt 70 visiting journalist has likened it to a Hollywood photo from Gloria the amazingly sweet and succulent langoustine (sometimes Don´t forget to make a reservation ! An all-Icelandic chain, as you may have guessed, with a selection Swanson’s personal family album. Seriously !! called Icelandic Lobster). of burgers, chicken and steak. Pictures of rock stars on the wall The specialty of the house is a rich Cream of Lobster Soup has 39. Siggi Hall at Óðinsvé complete the theme. Mostly on the right side of the purple note 32. Apotek been hailed all over the world by international gourmet writer Þórsgata 1 and you can refill your glass with soda as often as you like. Still, Austurstræti 16 David Rosengarten, whose comments appear in the fi nest food Ask Chef Dellea, the only Italian who is “Commandeur de la you find yourself wondering, is all that cheese and bacon on the Formerly the central drugstore of Reykjavik, established in magazines in Europe and in the States. Commanderie de Cordons Bleu de France”. Ask Chef Burmistrov chicken breast strictly necessary? 18 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 19

VENUE FINDER

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Cafés Þrír Frakkar, Baldursgata 14, p: 552-3939 Friday, July 25 Café Cozy, Austurstræti 3, p: 511-1033 Tjarnarbakkinn, Vonarstræti 3, p: 562-9700 Both Day and Night Café Paris, Austurstræti 14, p: 551-1020 Thule Music Tveir Fiskar, Geirsgata 9, p: 511-3474 Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from Grái Kötturinn, Hverfsgata 16a, p: 551-1544 Við Tjörnina, Templarasund 3, p: 551-8666 Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- Grandakaffi, Grandagarður 101, p: 552-9094 Grand Rokk Viðey, Viðey island, p: 568-1045 Bertrand. Kaffi Vín, Laugavegur 73, p: 561-0073 Kaffitár, Bankastræti 8, p: 511-4540 Friday July 25th Day Kaffivagninn, Grandagarður 10, p: 551-5932 Movie Theaters Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine Mokka, Skólavörðustígur 3a, p: 552-1174 Bíóhöllin, Álfabakki 8, p: 587-8900 penis and penis related selection from various Súfistinn, Laugavegur 18, p: 552-3740 Háskólabíó, Hagatorg, p: 530-1919 Grand Rokk is filled tonight by artists mammals. Te og Kaffi, Laugavegur 27, p: 552-6260 Kringlubíó, Kringlan 4-12, p: 588-0800 on the Thule Music label, among the Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows life and work in the years 1950-60. Tíu Dropar, Laugavegur 27, p: 551-9380 Regnboginn, Hverfisgata 54, p: 551-9000 artists performing is the band Twisted Ráðhúskaffi, Tjarnargata 11 (City Hall), p: 563-2169 Smárabíó, Smáralind, p: 564-0000 National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of Mind Crew who will, along with hip selected works by Icelandic artists from the Café, bar and bistro hop DJ Total kaoz, open the evening. National Gallery's collection. National and University Library, Exhibition of the Amsterdam, Hafnarstræti 5, p: 551-3800 Theaters Borgarleikhúsið, City Theatre, Listabraut 3, p: 568-8000 Also playing is Exos, a minimal techno founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens Ari í Ögri, Ingólfsstræti 3, p: 551-9660 Iðnó, Vonarstræti 3, p: 562-9700 literature, texts and drawings. Café 22, Laugavegur 22, p: 511-5522 activist who feeds on the brainwaves Light nights, Summer theatre, Iðnó (see above), p: 551-9181 Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in Café Kulture, Hverfisgata 18, p: 530-9314 of others. He is currently fighting for Salurinn Tómstundarhúsi Kópavogs, Hamraborg 6 Kóp, p: 570-0400 cartography Café Romance, Lækjargata 2, p: 552-9499 Skemmtihúsið Theatre, Laufásvegur 22, p: 552-5198 the equal rights of minimal music and Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic Café Victor, Hafnarstræti 1-3, p: 561-9555 Möguleikhúsið, Laugavegur 105, p: 562-2669 Elephant Show Celtic Cross, Hverfisgata 26, p: 511-3240 “radio active free” food ingredients. The Icelandic Opera, Ingólfsstræti 2a, p: 511-4200 Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five Coffee Shop 11, Laugavegur 11, p: 511-1180 Exos is issuing his first remix CD, Þjóðleikhúsið, Hverfisgata 19, p: 551-1200 Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- De Boomkikker, Hafnarstræti 9, p: 551-6780 which will be sold on the premises. Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Dillon, Laugavegur 30, p: 511-2400 Also performing tonight are; Tómas Hitt Húsið (Youth culture house), The Friday Dubliners, Hafnarstræti 4, p: 511-3233 Museums meldown Felix, Þingholtsstræti 5, p: 561-6622 Árbæjarsafn Folk Museum, Kistuhylur 4, p: 577-1111 TH, Bjarki Sveins, Aurra Sing, ZEUS, Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The Glaumbar, Tryggvagata 20, p: 552-6868 ASÍ Art Museum, Freyjugata 41, p: 511-5353 DJ Richard, Árni Vector and DJ Guðný. Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar Grand Rokk, Smiðjustígur 6, p: 551-5522 Ásmundarsafn Sculpture Museum, Sigtún, p: 553-2155 Sveinsson. Hverfisbar, Hverfisgata 20, p: 511-6700 Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, Eiríksgata, p: 551-3797 Starts at 23:00. Admisson 300ISK a Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of Kaffi Austurstræti, Austurstræti 6, p: 552-2615 Gerðarsafn Kópavogur Art Gallery, Hamraborg 4 Kóp, p: 570-0440 pop. Iceland´s first modern sculptor. Kaffi List, Laugavegur 20a, p: 511-1420 Gerðuberg Cultural Center, Gerðuberg 3-5, p: 577-7500 Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to Kaffi Kúltur, 530-9314, Hverfisgötu 18 Hafnarhúsið Reykjavík Art Museum, Tryggvagata 17, p: 590-1200 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste Kaffibarinn, Bergstaðarstræti 1, p: 551-1588 Icelandic Postal Museum, Austurgata 11 220 Hfj, p: 555-4321 Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into Kaffibrennslan, Pósthússtræti 9, p: 561-3600 Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum , Flókagata,, p: 562-6131 international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission Kofi Tómasar Frænda, Laugavegur 2, p: 551-1835 Listasalurinn Man, Skólavörðustígur 14, p: 551-2509 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. Kráin, Laugavegi 73, p: 561-7722 Menningarhúsið Culture House, Hverfisgata 15, p: 545-1400 Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times Little Central, Pósthússtræti 17, p: 561-2244 Museum of Natural History, Hlemmur 5, p: 590-0500 DJ Mike Scott in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur Nelly’s, Þingholtsstræti 2, p: 551-2477 National and University Library, Arngrímsgata 3, p: 525-5600 Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, Prikið, Bankastræti 12, p: 551-3366 National Archives, Laugavegur 162, p: 562-3393 Vídalín historical figures and major events in Icelandic Sirkus, Klapparstígur 30, p: 551-1999 National Film Archive of Iceland, Vesturgata 11-13, p: 565-5993 history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 Skipperinn, Tryggvagata 18, p: 551-7530 National Gallery of Iceland, Fríkirkjuvegur 7, p: 515-9600 krónur. Sólon, Bankastræti 7a, p: 562-3232 National Museum of Iceland, Suðurgata 41, p: 552-8888 Saturday July 26th Hafnarborg Art Gallery, -11 to 17 -US artist Svarta Kaffið, Laugavegur 54, p: 551-2919 Norræna Húsið Nordic House, Sturlugata 5, p: 551-7030 Barbara Cooper exhibits drawings. Torvaldsen bar, Austurstræti 8, p: 511-1413 Numismatic Museum, Einholt 4, p: 569-9962 Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of Vegamót, Vegamótastígur 4, p: 511-3040 Nýlistasafnið, The Living Art Museum, Vatnsstígur 3, p: 551-4350 contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and Vídalín, Aðalstræti 10, p: 551-0962 Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, Laugavegur 24, p: 566-8668 crafts. Vínbarinn, Kirkjutorg 4, p: 552-4120 Reykjavík Electrical Museum, Rafstöðvarvegur, p: 516-6790 Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to 17 -Portraits and Abstractions Reykjavík Museum of Photography, Tryggvagata 15, p: 563-1790 Gallery Hlemmur.is, -14 to 18 -"Look out for my Clubs Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum, Laugarnestangi 70, p: 553-2906 Love, it´s in your neighbourhood", some works of Broadway Entertainment Hall, Ármúli 9, p: 533-1100 Telecommunication Museum, Suðurgata, p: 550-6410 Hrafnhildur Halldórsdóttir Gaukur á Stöng, Tryggvagata 22, p: 551-1556 The Ásgrímur Jónsson Collection, Bergstaðarstræti 74, p: 515-9625 Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both Leikhúskjallarinn, Hverfisgata 19, 551-6010 The Icelandic Art Gallery, Skólavörðustígur 16a, p: 561-4090 international and Icelandic contemporary art. Mojito, Austurstræti 16, p: 575-7905 The Icelandic Maritime Museum, Vesturgata 8, p: 565-4242 Nasa, by Austurvöllur, p: 511-1313 Admission 200 krónur Spotlight, Hafnarstræti 17, p: 562-6813 ASÍ. Art Museum, -14 to 18 -Icelandic art from 1950-1970 Galleries Light Nights Summer Theatre, -starts at 20:30 Restaurants Artgallery LIST.IS/Listgallerí, Engjateigi 17-19, p: 553 2886 -Real authentic Icelandic show performed in English, Apótek bar grill, Austurstræti 16, p: 575-7900 Art-Hún, Stangarhylur 7, p: 567-3577 including the most thrilling ghost story ever told; Argentína Steakhouse, Barnsstígur 11a, p. 551-9555 Crafts and Design, Aðalstræti 12, p: 551-7595 The Deacon of Myrká Ban-Thai, Laugavegur 130, p: 552-2444 Fold, Rauðarárstígur 14, p: 551-0400 Night Brasserie Borg, Pósthússtræti 11, p: 594-7700 Gallery Reykjavík, Skólavörðustígur 16, p: 552-2500 Glaumbar, Atli partycop Café Ópera, Lækjargata 2, p: 552-9499 Hafnarborg Art Gallery, Strandgata 34, 220 Hfj, p: 555-0080 Little Central, Band Misery Loves Company Carpe Diem, Rauðarárstígur 18, p: 552-4555 Hlemmur.is, Þverholt 5, p: 552-0455 Nasa, Band Sálin Hans Jóns Míns, one of Iceland´s Caruso, Þingholtsstræti 1, p: 562-7335 Hnoss, Skólavörðustígur 3, p: 561-8485 If you missed the party last weekend biggest pop groups entertains predictably drunk Einar Ben, Veltusund 1, p: 511-5090 I8, Klapparstígur 33, p: 551-3666 you have still got a chance to see DJ Icelanders. Galileo, Hafnarstræti 1-3, p: 552-9500 Kirsuberjatréð, Vesturgata 4, p: 562-8990 Celtic Cross, Coverband 3some downstairs and Grillið, Hagatorg (Hótel Saga), p: 525-9960 Kóbolt, Laugavegur 55, p: 552-6080 Mike perform. Since there was such troubadour Ómar Hlyns upstairs Hereford steikhús, Laugavegur 53b, p: 511-3350 Kogga Ceramik Studio, Vesturgata 5, p: 552-6036 a huge turnout last weekend when he Mojito Club, Daddi Disco Coffee shop 11, DJ Andri Loverboy Hornið, Hafnarstræti 15, p: 551-3340 Listakot, Laugavegur 70, p: 552-8141 played, DJ Mike decided to do another Hótel Holt, Bergstaðarstræti 37, p: 552-5700 Meistari Jakob, Skólavörðustígur 5, p: 552-7161 Sirkus, DJ Árni Sveins Hótel Ísland, Ármúli 9, p: 595-7000 nr. 5, Skólavörðustígur 5, p: 562-2890 party. Hverfisbar,DJ Benni Humarhúsið (Lobster house), Amtmannsstígur 1, p: 561-3303 Ófeigur, Skólavörðustígur 5, p: 551-1161 Mike Scott deep passion is spinning Hverfisbar,DJ Benni Thorvaldsen bar, DJ Hlynur Ítalía, Laugavegur 11, p: 552-4630 Skuggi, Hverfisgata 39, p: 511-1139 vinyl for crowds of hungry music lov- Jónatan Livingston M, Tryggvagata 4-6, p: 551-5520 Nelly´s, DJ Jón Gestur La Primavera, Austurstræti 9, p: 561-8555 ers. Mike Scott has been spinning in Café 22, DJ KGB Fast food Amsterdam, DJ Master Lækjarbrekka, Bankastræti 2, p: 551-4430 American Style, Skipholt 70, p: 568-6838 clubs, on the radio and at parties since Kofi Tómasar frænda,DJ Sidekick Leikhúskjallarinn, Hverfisgata 19, p: 551-6010 Bæjarins Bestu, by Tryggvagata, p: 894-4515 he was 16 yrs old. His passion for Café Sólon, DJ Svali Lónið, Hótel Lofleiðir, p: 444-4055 Eldsmiðjan, Bragagata 38a, p: 562-3838 Vegamót, DJ´s Árni E and Balli Naustið, Vesturgata 6-8, p: 552-3030 music comes thru in dynamic sets and First Vegeterian, Laugarvegur 20b, p: 552-8410 Kaffibarinn,DJ´s of the house Pasta Basta, Klapparstígur 38, p: 561-3131 Grænn Kostur, Skólavörðustígur 8, p: 552-2028 in his explosive energy as he takes the Prikið, Surprise event Rauðará Steakhouse, Rauðarárstígur 37, p: 562-6766 Hlöllabátar, by Ingólfstorg, p: 511-3500 dance floor to different pulsating- lev Gaukur á Stöng, The band Kung Fu Restaurant Perlan, Öskjuhlíð, p: 562-0200 Kebab, Lækjargata 2, p: 561-3070 els that makes them crave for more. Leikhúskjallarinn, The ultimate party all night with Resturant Esja, Suðurlandsbraut 2. Nonnabitar, Hafnarstræti 11, p: 551-2312 one of Iceland’s top disco-party DJ´s “Johnny Dee,” Siggi Hall at Óðinsvé, Þórsgata 1, p: 511-6200 Pizza 67, Tryggvagata 26, p: 561-9900 Mike´s skills have also taken him into or so they say Skrúður, Hótel Saga, p: 525-9900 Vitabar, Bergþórugata 21, p: 551-7200 the studio for production of original Dubliners, Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva Sommelier brasserie, Hverfisgata 46, p: 511-4455 Waffle Wagon, at Lækjartorg, p: 822-9973 music, remixes, and production. De Boomkikker, Troubadour Danni Kráin 73, Troubadour Ingi Valur Party starts: 22:00, admission ISK Ari í Ögri, Troubadour Óskar Einars 500. Café Victor, Various DJ's, 80's 'n 90's music Vídalín, -Starts 23:00 -Grapevine party, all welcome! Jazz band plays music for tired Grapeviners, then DJ takes over to entertain drunk Grapeviners. Grand Rokk, -Starts 23:00 -Thule Music night Saturday, July 26 Reykjavík's City Center, Artistic Saturday, culture in the city center. Some thing happening on every corner. Artistic Saturday Amazing City Center, Many events and happenings in downtown Reykjavik July 26th Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- Part of the Amazing City Centre Bertrand. project, collaboration between the City Day Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine and shop owners in the centre to bring penis and penis related selection from various attention to what makes it special. mammals. Among happenings is an open house at Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows life and work in the years 1950-60. the gay society house and an invitation National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of to paint Italian ceramics at the shop selected works by Icelandic artists from the National Gallery's collection. Ceramics For Everyone, Laugavegur National and University Library, Exhibition of the 48b (they also give you coffee). At founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens 13.00 there’s an outside mass at literature, texts and drawings. Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in Lækjartorg, at 14.00 there is a cultural cartography walk around the streets named after Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, Some old deities from Nordic mythology, which motorcycles will be shown. Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic starts from Skólavörðuholt. At 16.00 Elephant Show there is a literary walk from the City Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- library with among others Hallgrímur Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Helgason, author of 101 Reykjavík. Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The The Reykjavík Art Museum has free Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar Sveinsson. admission from 13.00. Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of Iceland´s first modern sculptor. Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste 18 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 19

INTERVIEW

LISTINGS MAUS Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. Hitt húsið: Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, Friday Meltdown historical figures and major events in Icelandic history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 Friday July 25th krónur. Hafnarborg Art Gallery, -11 to 17 -US artist Barbara Cooper exhibits drawings. Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and crafts. Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to 17 -Portraits and Abstractions Gallery Hlemmur.is, -14 to 18 -"Look out for my Love, it´s in your neighbourhood", some works of Hrafnhildur Halldórsdóttir Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both international and Icelandic contemporary art. Admission 200 krónur ASÍ. Art Museum, -14 to 18 -Icelandic art from 1950-1970 The 4th and last and of course biggest Night Glaumbar, Atli partycop of the Hitt Húsið Friday Meltdowns this Little Central, Band Misery Loves Company summer is held today with a long and Celtic Cross, Coverband 3some downstairs and interesting six hour schedule. The Melt- troubadour Ómar Hlyns upstairs Mojito Club, Daddi Disco down will include music, happenings Sirkus, DJ Andri and acting, along with some poetry. Hverfisbar,DJ Benni Hverfisbar,DJ Benni Café 22, DJ Bobby K. 12:15 Thorvaldsen bar, DJ Hlynur Friday Meltdown starts, Cantabile Trio Nelly´s, DJ Jón Gestur Prikið, DJ KGB holds a short concert with classical Amsterdam, DJ Master music. Kofi Tómasar frænda,DJ Sidekick By Laugarvegur, Ingólfstorg, Aus- Vegamót, DJ Sóley Café Sólon, DJ Svali turvöllur and in the City Hall: Kaffibarinn,DJ´s of the house Street theatre, Mr. Sívertsen and the “For strong, natural white teeth and a fresh mint breath... “ This man probably does not use the same brand of toothpaste. Leikhúskjallarinn, Oldschool-dance-singalong- minstrels, the Marching Band of the party-jam-sweaty fun with the house DJ Photos: Aldís Coffee shop 11, Palli from Maus plays Masses, Fusion, Street Poetry, Over- Skaparinn (the Creator), Tecno Music by Data acting acting group, Summer Opera Pogrom, for more information see article on page From one of Reykjavik’s suburbs different label, and all in English, went back and forth in a long distance 21 in the paper you are reading. and Radio Mandolin. comes the band Maus, one of the titled ghostsongs. It received positive relationship between the band situated in Gaukur á Stöng, The band Buff Lækjargata more mature and developed bands in reviews, but didn’t sell too well. After the Iceland, and the producers in Germany. Dubliners, Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva Artistic garbage cans put into place. De Boomkikker, Troubadour Danni Iceland. They’ve been around for a while, release Maus supported Ash on a gig in This uncommon method took quite some Kráin 73, Troubadour Ingi Valur Arnarhóll and Skóluvörðustígur released five albums and received a nice Reykjavik and later also The Super Furry time, but left the band pleased with the Ari í Ögri, Troubadour Óskar Einars 22a selection of music awards along with Animals. Maus released another album in results, as the band is confident this is Café Victor, Various DJ's, 80's 'n 90's music Wall paintings by the Happy Painters, Vídalín, -Starts 22:00 -DJ Mike Scott. The famous making numerous radio hits. ’97 and were chosen as best band in the their best album so far. DJ filled the house last weekend, decided to stay on the latter and if you look in the direc- The band was founded in early 1993, Icelandic music awards in ’98. The new album is released in Iceland in Iceland and is doing his thing again tonight. tion of Kolaportið flea market. Admission 500 krónur. by four friends; Birgir Örn Steinarsson Their forth album was released in on Bad Taste label, just like their first Grand Rokk, -Starts 23:30 -Band Rúnk Tjarnarbíó Theatre (vocals/guitar), Eggert Gíslason (bass), (Masturbation), admission 500 krónur Living Theatre. Open rehearsal of a Páll Ragnar Pálsson (guitar) and Daníel new Icelandic play. Þorsteinsson (drums) All members were It was a common misunderstanding that the Sunday, July 27 Street party of the Hitt Húsið peer very young at the time, the youngest, Both Day and Night education group. Páll was only 16 at the time, the others a bands´ music didn’t fit the masses. “We’re Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from Flea market, Games, Facial painting, Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- year older. The following spring the band Bertrand. Introduction to the group, Refresh- participated in Iceland’s annual battle of just a pop band,” they stated. Day ments. the bands competition, “Músíktilraunir”. Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine 1999 in both English and Icelandic, titled album, and Páll stated that “being 16-18.00 Ingólfstorg. Maus took the first prize impressively, penis and penis related selection from various Concert, Kuai, Original Melody, Doctuz “Í þessi sekúndubrot sem ég flýt” (These released again on Bad Taste was like mammals. the winner out of nearly 30 participants. Short Seconds I Keep Afloat)” and along being back home”, saying that the label Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows Ókind, Bent and 7Berg. Winning prize was studio time, and time life and work in the years 1950-60. came more music awards, for best Maus was on didn’t fit the bands profile. Fríkirkjan Church. was well spent as Maus’s first album was National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of drummer and best lyrics. The album is also released in Germany selected works by Icelandic artists from the Reykjavík Art Theatre premiers Faith recorded over the summer, and released Two Grapeviners had the privilege of for the European market, which might National Gallery's collection. Healer by Brian Friel. in the fall on the Bad Taste label under National and University Library, Exhibition of the meeting half the band, guitarist Páll and mean some touring there this fall and the name “allar kenningar heimsins…. founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens drummer Daníel, in one of Reykjavik’s also a release of a remix album. literature, texts and drawings. Og ögn meira”. Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, Hay day, the cafés for chatting and a few photos. The conversation turns to touring and Their next album was on a summer harvest. The conversation soon gigging in Iceland, as they told us that it Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in cartography lead to discussions about was a common misunderstanding that Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic Kentár their latest album release the bands´ music didn’t fit the masses, Elephant Show titled “Musick”. “we’re just a pop band” they stated. A Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five Grand Rokk Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- They told us that the humble statement by members of one of Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Thursday July 31st working process of the Iceland’s most progressive bands. Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar latest album had been Maus is just back from London Sveinsson. the strangest and the where they played a concert related to Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of longest so far, with work art show Lobster or Fame, Bad Taste’s Iceland´s first modern sculptor. Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to beginning soon after their history art show. 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste ’99 release. Recording of We said goodbye, knowing that big Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into the songs was finished things are on the horizon for Maus, and international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. last summer in a studio wondering who the hell “Oneball” is. Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times in Dortmund Germany, in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur then began the tedious Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, Drummer Daniel to the left and guitar player Palli historical figures and major events in Icelandic work of mixing and Loki & Xor history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 post producing, tapes krónur. Hafnarborg Art Gallery, -11 to 17 -US artist Barbara Cooper exhibits drawings. Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of Blues band Kentár, or Centaur, was contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and founded at a Tony Ellis concert in crafts. Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to 17 Reykjavik in the summer of ’82. The -Portraits and Abstractions plan was simply to play Rock ‘n Roll Gallery Hlemmur.is, -14 to 18 -"Look out for my Love, it´s in your neighbourhood", some works of and the band started to rehearse in Hrafnhildur Halldórsdóttir an old garage near the residence of Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both Vigdís Finnbogadóttir, then President international and Icelandic contemporary art. Admission 200 krónur of Iceland. Some band members even ASÍ. Art Museum, -14 to 18 -Icelandic art from got a lift with the president every now 1950-1970 and then on their way to rehearsal. Night After playing hard rock for some years Kráin 73, Jazz duet Finni and Eddi Lár Dubliners, Troubadour Andy Garcia the band suddenly found itself playing blues. After releasing an album in ’87 Monday, July 28 titled “Bluesdjamm” the band toured Both Day and Night a lot around Iceland. In the spring of Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from 1990, the band quit. In the past years Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- Bertrand. Kentár have reunited to play a gig Day every now and then, and are doing so Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine tonight. Admissoion: 700ISK. Starts penis and penis related selection from various at 10:00 mammals. Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows life and work in the years 1950-60. National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of 20 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 21

TRUE STORIES

KEFLAVíK, WE HAVE A PROBLEM LISTINGS So the summer continued. I had a selected works by Icelandic artists from the chance to return to home to spend National Gallery's collection. Fictional Reykjavík National and University Library, Exhibition of the some days with my boys Jake and Harry. founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens Willed myself out of bed at 5.00am literature, texts and drawings. City Library Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in to catch the early flight to Heathrow. cartography Keflavik Airport was its usual July self, Saturday July 26th Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic a snake of passengers worked their way Elephant Show Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five via the cordons to the check-in desks, Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- most as blurry eyed as me. The walk Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The from the security is almost as long as Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar the journey from Reykjavik. The reason Sveinsson. why the passport control is situated Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of Iceland´s first modern sculptor. so far from the heart of the airport is Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to found in one word - Schengen. Whoever 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste or whatever Schengen is, it seems Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission that he she or it has done a fine job in A literary walking tour of the down- 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. creating unnecessary hassle. Why? For Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times town area, starting at the Reykjavík no good reason is why. But it is the way in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur A plane carrying passengers full of phlegm, spunk and pluck. City Library in Tryggvagata 15 (only Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, this Schengen seems to operate. The seconds away from the downtown historical figures and major events in Icelandic name actually sounds like a mythical history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 Tourist Information). There will be a krónur. creature, if that is the case, then the I looked around ready for the potential. The female purser, beautiful short introduction at the library about Hafnarborg Art Gallery, -11 to 17 -US artist people of Iceland have really upset inevitable panic which would have in a way that had survived a million Barbara Cooper exhibits drawings. Icelandic literature and films based on him. He makes you and your visitors gripped my fellow travellers and took the drunken leers, would be preparing Light Nights Summer Theatre, -starts at 20:30 Icelandic novels, and then the guides -Real authentic Icelandic show performed in English, walk needlessly from point to point at opportunity to show some sang-froid, to herself to issue the big one - the numero will take you to some downtown sites including the most thrilling ghost story ever told; unfriendly hours of the morning, whilst see there was absolutely no reaction uno of in-flight announcements ‘Ladies The Deacon of Myrká that play a roll in Icelandic fiction. The making some of your nations finest from the Icelanders who made up the and gentlemen please adopt the crash Night tour is free of charge and will be run sit wearing guns in bullet proof boxes, bulk of the passengers. The group of position!’ I reached below me and was Dubliners, Troubadour Ingi Valur every Friday, starts at 16. checking passports. We live in times of drunken students who had been up all comforted to find, for the first time in my global uncertainty, the axis of evil etc. night, started to sing “Ground control to life, the bouyancy aid. Tuesday, July 29 Both Day and Night But, if Islamic fundamentalists are going Major Tom” and continued to swig from I looked around the aircraft newly Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from to strike, Icelandic passport control will beer bottles. The remainder sat in silent comforted and impressed by my Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- not be high on their list of strategic indifference while this seasoned traveller partners in crisis. I felt a fraternal charge World Press Photo Bertrand. priorities. These passport officers seem began to panic. The old woman and her with people who showed such phlegm, Day Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine uncomfortable in their uniforms and gun son sitting next to me were amongst the spunk, pluck (all sound pretty terrible I 2003 Kringlan shop- penis and penis related selection from various belts, as do their female counterparts few non-Icelanders on the flight. They know, but that’s the way the great book, mammals. newly trained at the ‘full service’ TGI were from Somalia. How they ended the Oxford Dictionary, tells us is what we ping mall Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows life and work in the years 1950-60. Friday’s in Reykjavik. State policing up in Reykjavik is another story, but he show in the face of adversity.) Until August 2nd National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of and service seem refreshingly alien to had fallen asleep the moment we took We pierced the low cloud that now selected works by Icelandic artists from the Iceland’s youth. off, while she sat huddled in her shawl, enveloped Keflavik and landed without National Gallery's collection. National and University Library, Exhibition of the I boarded the plane and eyed the gazing at the folded tray-table. I thought further incident or comment from the founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens of family friends and listened anxiously passengers. My heart rate returned to literature, texts and drawings. Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in to every sound from the engine as the normal and the Icelanders made no cartography aircraft banked hard to retrace our remark as we were asked to disembark Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic course. the aircraft, and endured the long wait Elephant Show Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five There’s time to reflect in moments for an announcement and inevitable Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- like these. Why no reaction from the disruption to their timetables. A call that Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Icelanders? They are Lutherans not would send other nations into apoplexy, Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar Buddhists, a hymn might have been in Iceland it did not elicit a shrug. What Sveinsson. appropriate. Certainly, in America, the I’m trying to say is that they coped. No Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of aircraft would have filled with the chant drama queens, no hissy fits, no ‘ you’ll be Iceland´s first modern sculptor. When you have finished your tax-free Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to ‘Oh my God…! In Italy, passengers would hearing from my lawyers’, just a shrug 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste have crossed themselves, gabbling and and let´s get on with it. And I like them all shopping at the Kringlan shopping Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into mall, it is time to balance your ma- international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission arguing. Anywhere in South America, we the more for it. 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. would have a riot on our hands. But here Oh yes, the Somalians. The mother terialistic urges with more cultural Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times we are, 29,000 feet over the Atlantic remained transfixed throughout and the entertainment. Put the bags down, in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur take your time to walk through the Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, with only one functioning engine and son awoke as we arrived at the terminal historical figures and major events in Icelandic there was - nothing. Screens showed an – He looked at his watch and then asked mall and have a look at the panels that history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 ancient rerun of a ‘Friends’ episode and ‘London?’ present international photojournalism krónur. at its best. Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of the passengers sat watching, oblivious ‘No’. I smiled, enjoying the new contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and to the drama they were part of. For me found confidence that only terra firma The world has not yet become a good crafts. place to be born in, and the flashy sale Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to 17 the image of the aircraft in the ocean can produce. ‘No, not London - Keflavik -Portraits and Abstractions beckoned and it occurred that I had – we have a problem’. advertisements of Kringlan shops cre- Gallery Hlemmur.is, -14 to 18 -"Look out for my safety video. It had a cheery section of actually never seen a floating aircraft in Iceland air Flight 105 returned to ate an ironical background to pictures Love, it´s in your neighbourhood", some works of a 7 whatever 7, floating in the sea with Hrafnhildur Halldórsdóttir my life before. service a day later (?). of mourning and violence. The World life rafts around it. A regular traveller, I ASÍ. Art Museum, -14 to 18 -Icelandic art from I was brought up on a rich diet Press Photo contest has by now 1950-1970 of course ignored the video and read of black and white movies, the Dam Copyright achieved a reputation of prestige and Viðey Island, -19:30 -A walk around Viðey Island instead. We climbed away from the city with a look at the wild life. Busters’ school, ample material for my Robert J Jackson 2003 high professional standards and the and levelled off at a cruising altitude, Night fear-loaded imagination. The pilot would 2003 winning entries are no exception. when the words, “Ladies and gentlemen, Dubliners, Troubadour Ingi Valur doubtless be wriggling in his seat, brow- Robert Jackson is a writer. He divides Fortunately, there are also categories we are experiencing a problem with furrowed and adopting that calm in a his time between Reykjavik, Vik and such as nature and the environment, one of our engines we are returning to Wednesday, July 30 crisis tone that generates panic in all of the UK. His first book 69 Degrees portrait and daily life, so you can Keflavik.” They were as welcome as a Both Day and Night us who think we know better. The co-pilot North, an adventure love story with always cheer yourself up again with Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from positive blood test. would be flicking switches and making an environmental twist, is available at a giant Leonardo di Caprio head, Chi- Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- One of our engines? A glance at the Bertrand. ‘Mayday’ calls, before the aircraft was Penninn Eymundsson, Austurstraeti 18 nese monks during a Kung-Fu practice wing confirmed that we only had two. Day given the ultimate test of its amphibious or through Amazon.com. or National Geographic landscapes. Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine The second part of the exhibition penis and penis related selection from various presents photographs by Ólafur mammals. Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows K.Magnússon (1926 - 1997), a pho- life and work in the years 1950-60. tographer associated with the largest National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of Icelandic national paper, Morgun- selected works by Icelandic artists from the National Gallery's collection. blaðið. Ólafur studied photography National and University Library, Exhibition of the in Hollywood, joined Morgunblaðið founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens immediately after his return to Ice- literature, texts and drawings. Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in land in 1947 and stayed working for cartography the newspaper for almost fifty years. Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic Elephant Show He was the first Icelander to make Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five photojournalism his full-time, life-long Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- occupation. The exhibition includes Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The portraits of Icelandic artists and Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar politicians, daily life snapshots from all Sveinsson. parts of the country as well as pictures Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of Iceland´s first modern sculptor. that document important events in Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to Icelandic history. A unique opportunity 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into to see Icelandic farmers observing the international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission 1954 solar eclipse or to learn what the 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. centre of Reykjavik looked like when Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur the parliament voted for Iceland’s af- Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, filiation to NATO in 1949 and the not historical figures and major events in Icelandic so happy citizens took to smashing its history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 krónur. windows with stones. Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and 20 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 21

EVENTS

TURN ON, TUNE IN LISTINGS DRESS UP! crafts. It is said that some things that don’t Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to 17 -Portraits and Abstractions make sense actually do make sense. Gallery Hlemmur.is, -14 to 18 -"Look out for my Using a design store as a place to hold Love, it´s in your neighbourhood", some works of Children’s Crayon Kit concerts does in a way not make sense, Hrafnhildur Halldórsdóttir Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both but in this case it makes a lot of sense. international and Icelandic contemporary art. Gallerí Hlemmur The store mentioned is “Skaparinn”, Admission 200 krónur or in good old English, “The Creator”. ASÍ. Art Museum, -14 to 18 -Icelandic art from Until August 3rd 1950-1970 The Creator is owned and run by a pair Night nicknamed Rósi & Dúsa, both designers Nelly´s, Coverband Raun of clothes. Rósi & Dúsa opened up their Sirkus, Jazz, DJ Kári and KGB Gaukur á Stöng, The band EE project store in 2001 after working together Dubliners, Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva for over a year designing and you’ll find nothing but their design on the stores Thursday, July 31 hangers (no shelves you see). The store Both Day and Night itself is designed by their standards and Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from ideas also. Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- Bertrand. Day Less than a year ago they started to Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine hold concerts in their store and during penis and penis related selection from various last winter they held 17 concerts with mammals. Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows various artist and bands. Their schedule life and work in the years 1950-60. included bands like Singapore Sling and National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of selected works by Icelandic artists from the Ensími, who both toured the USA last National Gallery's collection. winter and also other highly respected National and University Library, Exhibition of the bands and musicians like KK, Hudson founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens literature, texts and drawings. Bay and Stjörnukisi. In order to be able Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in Give a child some crayons, scraps to hold each concert they have to empty cartography of paper or pieces of cloth and you the store completely, which is a lot of Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic can be sure you get some peace and Elephant Show unpaid work, since neither they nor the Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five quiet for a couple of hours. The little bands and artists get paid any money for Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- monster will become totally absorbed Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. their effort, as there is no entrance fee, Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The in his work, drawing... cutting... glue- the music is free. Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar ing... deaf and blind to whatever may Sveinsson. Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of be happening around him. Rósi & Dúsa then use the musicians Iceland´s first modern sculptor. as models and that way they combine Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to The joy of creating and absolute their design and the concerts, and their 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into concentration play the central role efforts have received a lot of attention international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission in Hrafnhildur Halldórsdóttir’s works abroad, for instance in various music 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. and design magazines. Icelandic media Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times at Gallerí Hlemmur. The artist probes in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur different approaches, making changes has been less impressed and shown Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, little interest what they´re doing. As the historical figures and major events in Icelandic and variations on a simple principle, history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 using easily accessible material: plain saying goes, enginn verður spámaður í krónur. children’s crayons, pencils and felt. eigin heimalandi (No one becomes a Gallery i8, -11 to 18 -Works of the contemporary prophet in his hometown). artists Roni Horn The embroidery resembles a pencil Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of drawing, uncomplicated and subdued contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and On the 25th of July there is a musical in colour, the thread line being treated crafts. show named Dada Pogrom. Behind the Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to 17 the same way one handles a pencil; At first glance this looks like a work of art, but you can actually wear it on your head. name is Kenneth Vladas Balys, a.k.a. K. -Portraits and Abstractions the artist basically sketches with the Gallery Hlemmur.is, -14 to 18 -"Look out for my K is born in Canada and is half Icelandic Photos: Aldís Love, it´s in your neighbourhood", some works of sewing needle. It is no heavy art in and half Lithuanian. His origin draws Hrafnhildur Halldórsdóttir gilded frames, the exhibition has an Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both him to his roots in Iceland and his great Icelandic band XXX Rotweiler. This fall “I am just a stupid foreigner, give me a international and Icelandic contemporary art. atmosphere of playfulness, obvious en- grandfather Sigvaldi Kaldalóns is very he is going to record a new album at beer”, and then he added; “I know a little Admission 200 krónur joyment and a fragile balance between ASÍ. Art Museum, -14 to 18 -Icelandic art from well known in Iceland for his music Thule music in Reykjavik. The tracks on bit more, but this sentence has proved 1950-1970 the imperfection of the process and compositions. Though K doesn’t live Night the completion of a finished work, the here, he’s worked a lot with Icelandic Nelly´s, Acoustic night kind of exhibition that cheers you up artists and filmmakers on movies and “I am just a stupid foreigner, give me a Prikið, DJ Kári Kráin 73, Live Music and makes your fingers itch for some music videos, including the movie “1. Gaukur á Stöng, The band EE project crayons and some felt, too. April” with director Haukur M and the beer,” is a most helpful sentence to know. Café Sólon, Tommi white Open Thurs-Sun 14-18 video “Bent Nálgast” a rap track by Sirkus, Travelling Disco Little Central, Trio Sigurðar Rögnvaldssonar Dubliners, Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva K’s latest album all bear to be the most helpful one on numerous Grand Rokk, -Starts 22:00 -The band Kentár plays names in Icelandic, and occasions.” the blues, admission 700 krónur the last song, eilífð, Friday, August 1 is dedicated to his Grapevine hopes more is to come from grandmother, Selma the music hall of Skaparinn. Both Day and Night Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from The Culture House Kaldalóns (also a Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- composer of music). Bertrand. All Year Exhibition. K is mostly into techno, Event: Electro Musical show by Data Kráin 73, Exhibition grand opening by Sigurdís Harpa, paintings and various other artworks but leaves the classical Pogrom Day music to his ancestors. When: Saturday 26h of July Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine Grapevine asked K if Where: Laugavegur 28, shop “Skaparinn” penis and penis related selection from various (the Creator) mammals. he knew any Icelandic, Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows and his response was; Admission: Free life and work in the years 1950-60. “Ég er bara heimskur National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of selected works by Icelandic artists from the útlendingur, gefðu mér National Gallery's collection. bjór”, which translates; Jóndi National and University Library, Exhibition of the founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens literature, texts and drawings. Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in cartography Opened in 1909, and at that point it Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic housed the National Library and Ar- Elephant Show Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five chives, as well as the National Museum Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- and National History Museum, which is Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The why it was called “the Museum House” Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar by the public. All of the above have Sveinsson. since moved elsewhere, but various Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of Iceland´s first modern sculptor. items from them are on exhibit there. Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to On the groundfloor is an exhibit of 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste manuscripts preserving Iceland´s Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission medieval literature. Other collections 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. include one dedicated to Hannes Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur Hafstein, poet and first minister, and Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, one dedicated to independence leader historical figures and major events in Icelandic Jón Sigurðsson. On the top floor is an history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 krónur. exhibition about the Vikings in the New Gallery i8, -11 to 18 -Works of the contemporary World. The exhibitions are open daily artists Roni Horn from 11.00 to 17.00, and are free on Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and Sundays. crafts. Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to 17 -Portraits and Abstractions Gallery Hlemmur.is, -14 to 18 -"Look out for my 22 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 23

MUSIC THEY CAME, THEY SAW, THEY FROZE THEIR ASSES OFF LISTINGS A brief look at the bands that have here in 1980 and Love, it´s in your neighbourhood", some works of been here showing us how things Hrafnhildur Halldórsdóttir Indoor music festival Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both should be done. When international and Icelandic contemporary art. THE FIRST The Stranglers came in Admission 200 krónur Innipúkinn ASÍ. Art Museum, -14 to 18 -Icelandic art from The Kinks were here in ´65 and played 1978 we hadn’t been 1950-1970 at Hótel Borg, today’s oldest surviving ready for them but they Reykjavik Light Nights Summer Theatre, -starts at 20:30 hotel in downtown Reykjavík. This didn’t leave without -Real authentic Icelandic show performed in English, Saturday August 2nd including the most thrilling ghost story ever told; was the first notable pop band to visit planting seeds in the The Deacon of Myrká hearts of a generation. Iceland. Because they were playing at a For those wise (or broke) enough not Night So The Clash, at their Ari í Ögri, Acoustic duet (Jói and Kjartan) small venue they had to do two gigs a to attempt to spend the 1st weekend night, half the normal length, and wound peak with the London Celtic Cross, Band Hound Dog Trio and Elvis of August drunk and wet in a tent downstairs and troubadour upstairs. Calling tour, got a very up giving eight performances all in all. somewhere in Iceland’s wilderness, Dubliners, BT and family: Various musicians play warm welcome – we together as a band in a random apperance Ray Davies is rumoured to have written there is now a way out…or in. the song “I’m on an Island” during his even had a punk band Thorvaldsen bar, Daddi Disco While the other outdoor festivals of- Kráin 73, DJ Andrea Jónsdóttir of our very own to thaw Prikið, DJ Daði stay, a phrase that must have burst fer a cocktail of booze, bad weather into the minds of the Icelandic kids as out the crowd, the now Mojito Club, DJ Hlynur and bad coverbands, “Innipúkinn” Sirkus, DJ Iceland legendary Outsiders. a desperate revelation when The Kinks (roughly transl: couch potato?) is the Kofi Tómasar frænda,DJ LeChef 80´S KICK OFF Café 22, DJ Rally Cross left and they had to wait five bleeding alternative choice, though it doesn’t years for the next half-decent act to Everything opened up. The tempest of Icelandic group Artch to keep our rock Café Sólon, DJ Þröstur mean leaving the booze behind. Vari- Kaffibarinn,DJ´s of the house mullets and new wavers the following glands secreting at said festival despite come along, years spent in a cultural ous artists and bands try their best to Nelly´s, House DJ years brought us The Fall, Gary Numan, (or because of) Poisons absence. A year Coffee shop 11, Special event purgatory void of TV, Playstations and make people forget their outdoor banned narcotics such as beer. Echo & The Bunnymen, Madness, Human later, in 1993, Rage Against the Machine Gaukur á Stöng, The band Kung Fu festival longings as all hope for more De Boomkikker, Troubadour Óskar Einarsson League, Grace Jones, Classix Nouveaux rushed the same stage and all hell broke Café Victor, Various DJ's, 80's 'n 90's music The hippy movement caught on late rain, just to feel better about staying in Iceland and didn’t have the same and Crass to name but a few. Nick Cave loose. Axes and knifes were confiscated, Grand Rokk, -Starts 23:00 -Clever and Smart, a in town. The music is made by bands new hip hop band featuring Steini from Quarashi & the Bad Seeds stumbled over but it and Icelandic kids drunker than Shane cultural grounding as in the US and such as Trabant, Botn, Rúnk, Mugison, and others, admission 500 krónur. was during their drugged-out-of-this- McGowan in a distillery became among rest of Europe. We lacked the means Innvortis and Lovers. or-any-other-world-phase and they still the first to discover the bands genius. of infection, our media could not fuel This is the 2nd time Innipúkin indoor Saturday, August 2 can’t remember their stay so Cave had Rage Against the Machine were not the fever as needed and our government music festival is held and as heard Both Day and Night to come back in 2002 to make up for impressed. Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from was unreasonably fair in every respect through the Grapevine the first time and gave young people little to rebel it. In 1987 Meatloaf graced us with his CHANGE Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- was a hit. Bertrand. presence, and the glitzy one hit wonders This year, 1993, was a turning about (editorial note: ho-hum). But Likely to be the only event worth your Day Europe, which at first was a lame but fun point because that was the year Led Zeppelin still came here in June in money this weekend. Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine band, then became lame, then fun again Björk Guðmundsdóttir hit it big. The penis and penis related selection from various 1970. They played at Laugardagshöll Entrance fee: 2200kr, 1800 if bought which has since then been the most a few years ago for sarcastic indie shoe Sugarcubes had built it up but after this mammals. beforehand at 12 Tónar record shop. Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows popular venue for imported bands. gazers, got played to death and are now Iceland was ensured cool status and life and work in the years 1950-60. They did some tunes, shagged some lamer than ever. has had little difficulty signing big bands National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of selected works by Icelandic artists from the birds (some women in very respectable Boy George, Uriah Heep, Leonard to these shores since. Marking this National Gallery's collection. position today are said to have been in Cohen, Status Quo and Kiss came in occasion, I have compiled an incomplete National and University Library, Exhibition of the questionable positions with the band 1988, Meatloaf again in ´89. In 1990 list of the visitors of the last 10 years: founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens literature, texts and drawings. members at the time), and then followed the Happy Mondays seem to have some Underworld, St. Etienne, The Prodigy, Trabant Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in The Kinks´ example and got an idea for recollection of coming here and puking Bobby Gillespie (of Primal Scream), Atari cartography At Innipúkinn Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic a song here. It was of course “Immigrant their way about the place. A mediocre Teenage Riot, Ash (peculiar because they Elephant Show Song” where they point out that here we performance but at least they beat hadn’t made it at all when they came but Saturday August 2nd Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five have cold weather and hot springs (they Boney M and Tom Jones who were here the machine was put into action and all Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. didn’t have time to look around much). the same year. singles were played around the clock Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The The year after Deep Purple played at the WHERE BANDS COME TO DIE everywhere until Ash became famous Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar same venue, blew the sound system and 1991-´92 was the era of washed up rock here and the promoters made money), Sveinsson. Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of stormed away in a bad mood. bands, for whatever reason. Since not The Cardigans, Pulp, Blur (twice – and Iceland´s first modern sculptor. PUNK enough time had gone by since they lost Damon Albarn ended up buying a house Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste The rest of the decade was mostly their cool, even in our instant nostalgia here), Coldplay, Propellerheads, David Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into uneventful and it wasn’t until the times, Iron Maiden, Jethro Tull and Black Bowie, De La Soul, Goldie, Fugees, international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission wonderful 80´s that things started to pick Sabbath (minus Ozzy), were nothing to Massive Attack, Robbie Williams (made 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times up. Not only was there an unprecedented call home about. Ozzy was originally it onto the Icelandic blacklist along with in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur shipping of foreign talent to our shores supposed to come here in place of Black Jerry Seinfield after Robbie acted like a Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, but the local bands really started to Sabbath, but a Christian organisation prick and had a hissy fit on stage just historical figures and major events in Icelandic history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 shape up and new progressive musicians prayed that this would not happen, because someone threw a bottle at The band Trabant is just back from krónur. were born, laying the foundations for Ozzy duly caught a cold and cancelled him), Garbage, Mercury Rev, Fugazi, their Japanese tour and their first Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and the Björks and Sigurrós´s of today. So the show and his old bandmates were Stereolab, Modest Mouse, Elton John, gig after returning is at “Innipúkinn” crafts. maybe here we have an answer for those hired as a replacement. Skid Row came Ian Brown, Bloodhound Gang, Shellac, tonight. Trabant played at the Icelandic Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to 17 who want to know why we have such a here the same year at the peak of their Wiseguys, Low, Thievery Corporation Airwaves music festival last year and -Portraits and Abstractions Gallery Hlemmur.is, -14 to 18 -"Look out for my flourishing and inventive music scene, it powers, but these were, admittedly, (twice – as part of the first two Icelandic received a lot of attention. Love, it´s in your neighbourhood", some works of might be because it was effectively born slight. Airwaves – which has since become the The members of Trabant have been Hrafnhildur Halldórsdóttir in an era of punk. Punk was never about Many Icelanders still remember only real music festival here and not Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both working together in one way or other international and Icelandic contemporary art. sitting still or being quiet. And we had the mini music event held in a stadium a bad one at that), Flaming Lips, The the last decade in various bands within Admission 200 krónur bands such as The Clash performing in Hafnarfjörður where Poison was Hives, Rammstein, The Strokes, Sasha, the Reykjavik music scene, such as ASÍ. Art Museum, -14 to 18 -Icelandic art from 1950-1970 supposed to play, but bailed out at last NOFX, Blonde Redhead, Fatboy Slim and Quarashi, Unun, Apparat Organ Quar- minute due to a bass player’s finger finally the bleached technocriminals of Night tet, Slowblow, The Funerals, Kvartett Ari í Ögri, Acoustic duet (Jói and Kjartan) injury. Whitesnake had done better a few Scooter! O Jonson og Grjoni,Kanada. Celtic Cross, Band Hound Dog Trio and Elvis years before when they went on despite Foo Fighters will be the next name to Trabant’s latest album Moment of Truth downstairs and troubadour upstairs. Dubliners, BT and family: Various musicians play singer Coverdale´s being incapacitated add to the list as they will play on the was produced by Trabant and techno together as a band in a random apperance by a sore throat, and made up with 26th of August at Laugardalshöllin. merchant Thor of the Thule Music em- Thorvaldsen bar, Daddi Disco extended guitar solos and local singers A big sloppy “thank you” to Dr. Gunni Café 22, DJ Diabolicals pire. Its recording / producing process Mojito Club, DJ Hlynur stepping in. In 1992, however, we had for writing the most extensive guide to took no less than six months on top of Kofi Tómasar frænda,DJ LeChef the Quireboys (Queerboys originally Icelandic rock culture ever with his book three years of Trabant composing, so Sirkus, DJ Yamaho but they had to change their name), “Eru ekki allir í stuði?”. Café Sólon, DJ Þröstur a nomination as best debut album of Kaffibarinn,DJ´s of the house Thunder, Slaughter and Norwegian- Ragnar Egilsson the year at the Icelandic Music Awards Prikið, DJ´s Snike and Tiger 2002 was well deserved, múm being Nelly´s, House DJ Coffee shop 11, Special event their predecessors in the category, Gaukur á Stöng, The band Kung Fu plus their single “Enter Spacebar”, was Kráin 73, Troubadour Danni tjokkó chosen single of the month in MUZIK De Boomkikker, Troubadour Óskar Einarsson Café Victor, Various DJ's, 80's 'n 90's music Prestigious Reykjavik-based foreign Magazine. Sunday, August 3 organisation has two vacancies for office Both Day and Night Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from Destination Greenland Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- staff fluent in both English and Icelandic: Bertrand. Tourist Information Day Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine penis and penis related selection from various Centre Aðalstræti 2 mammals. -Media relations, web-site and educational projects Manager Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows Until August 2nd life and work in the years 1950-60. National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of one year only from 1 September 2003. selected works by Icelandic artists from the The tourist office at Aðalstræti in the National Gallery's collection. centre of Reykjavik offers information National and University Library, Exhibition of the of how, when and why to visit Iceland’s founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens -Trade and Investment Promotion Assistant – permanent position literature, texts and drawings. north western neighbours. Practical Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in information is supplemented with an cartography Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, New Iceland Youth exhibition of Greenlandic arts and Choir from Canada performes. crafts, books on Greenland, seal skins Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic and the inevitable polar bear skull. Elephant Show Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five Applications in English only to PO Box 460, 121 Reykjavik Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- 22 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 23

FOOD

A COFFEE SHOP LISTINGS WITH CLASS Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Those who have travelled a lot will Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The know what I am talking about when I Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar Viðey walk, Viðey Is- Sveinsson. moan about the fact that there isn’t a Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of decent coffee shop with small snacks Iceland´s first modern sculptor. land Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to available in the particular town we have 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste Tuesday August 5th been discussing. Small, good looking, Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into Viðeyjar walk. A guided walk around clean shops with a distinguished look are international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission Viðey island with artist Kristinn E. 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. hard to find nowadays. Be it Paris, New Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times Hrafnsson. The work of American York or Stockholm, you don’t find these in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur sculptor Richard Sierra is on show jewels on every street corner no more. Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, around the island. Sierra is one of the historical figures and major events in Icelandic Well, I suppose you don’t know where history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 best known sculpture artists in later to look. Because high-calibre coffee krónur. years, and is thought by many to be Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of shops are still around, but perhaps not contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and the most influential artist of his kind in where you would be looking. But they are crafts. the past 50 years. Along with looking there, oh yes, you’ll most likely find them Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to 17 at art the guide will tell visitors the is- -Portraits and Abstractions at places like MoMa in New York City, or Gallery Hlemmur.is, -14 to 18 -"Look out for my lands history. The history part includes similar art museums all over the world. Love, it´s in your neighbourhood", some works of a little bit of both of those mainstays And Reykjavík is no exception ! Hrafnhildur Halldórsdóttir of history, killing and praying. The ferry Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both Believe it or not, you can find this international and Icelandic contemporary art. from Sundahöfn harbour in Reykjavik type of coffee shop on the upper floor Admission 200 krónur will leave at 19:30 and entrance fee ASÍ. Art Museum, -14 to 18 -Icelandic art from of the National Gallery of Iceland. The 1950-1970 is only 500kr. The tours duration is Gallery, situated at Fríkirkjuvegur by Light Nights Summer Theatre, -starts at 20:30 around two hours. Good shoes and the lake in downtown Reykjavík, houses -Real authentic Icelandic show performed in English, warm clothes recommended. including the most thrilling ghost story ever told; some of the finest art works by Icelandic The Deacon of Myrká artists if you are interested. However, Night you don’t have to pay the admission to Dubliners, BT and family: Various musicians play the showrooms if you are only going to together as a band in a random apperance Thorvaldsen bar, Daddi Disco Lobster or Fame: Two visit the coffee shop. You just give the Prikið, DJ Kári nice lady who sells the tickets a nod and Kaffibarinn,DJ´s of the house Decades of Bad Taste Coffee shop 11, Special event a smile as you enter the marble clad Gaukur á Stöng, The band Kung Fu Ltd. Reykjavík Art Mu- foyer and continue up the elegant stairs Kráin 73, Troubadour Danni tjokkó – and you’ll find the coffee shop on your De Boomkikker, Troubadour Óskar Einarsson Café Victor, Various DJ's, 80's 'n 90's music seum immediate right as you reach the second Grand Rokk, -Starts 22:00 -Hangover jazz, Flís. landing. Admission 500 krónur June 13th - August 31st As you come into the coffee shop there is a glass counter where you may Monday, August 4 order something simple with your coffee. Both Day and Night Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from I say simple because there is not a great Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- selection to choose from. On weekdays Bertrand. you can have a soup and salad – or Undisclosed location, Höddi’s Birthday. Don’t forget to give him a gift. Happy Birthday to you “Today’s Special,” usually a plain fish Höddi. dish, not fancy but good and tasty. On Day Saturdays and Sundays you can select Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine either a ham quiche or a broccoli quiche. penis and penis related selection from various mammals. You should have no problems in making Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows your selection. No, you don´t have to pretend to understand it, this is just the coffee shop. life and work in the years 1950-60. A glass of the house wine, red or National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of Smekkleysa SM, widely known as Bad Photos: Aldís white, is priced at 610 krónur per glass, selected works by Icelandic artists from the Taste SM Ltd is the record label that National Gallery's collection. the beer goes for 550 krónur and a and perhaps a cake, you have a choice counter also lists coffee cakes and even launched The Sugarcubes, Reptile, National and University Library, Exhibition of the soda, such as Coca Cola, costs 200 of apple pie with whipped cream, a milk biscuits (sometimes maliciously founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens Ham, Maus, Björk, Sigur Rós and literature, texts and drawings. krónur ( approx. $1.60). blueberry cake or a fancy marenge with referred to as dog biscuits). A cup of Mínus. This summer it celebrates Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in If you are not having lunch, just pear filling and a lot of whipped cream. coffee/tea will cost you 200 krónur for a cartography Icelandic music, culture and its 16th dropping in for a quick cup of coffee The white board on the wall beside the regular brew, but a cup of Swiss mocha Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic birthday at Reykjavík Art Museum with Elephant Show is offered for 280 krónur, - a price that a blend of photography and music. Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five would make Mr.Starbucks wonder! Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- Lobster or Fame is an overview of The furniture and decor is, of Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. the labels´ history, displaying posters, Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The course, very stylish and good looking record sleeve designs and photos Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar Scandinavian design. There are art works Sveinsson. that capture an apparent naive joy by Danish artist Asger Jorn on the walls Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of and vibrancy. Historically significant, Iceland´s first modern sculptor. plus a few by Corneille. The furniture and Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to the rarely seen photographic images the artwork give the coffee shop that 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste weave into the creative core of a la- Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into clean, almost sterile atmosphere that bel whose anarchic and quirky spirit international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission people occasionally long for, in order 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. has produced extraordinary artists to get away from the shabby bistros. Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times and made a lasting mark on both the in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur Even the back-ground music is different; Icelandic music and art scenes as well Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, soothing classical music tuned so low historical figures and major events in Icelandic as having had considerable impact that nobody can recognize it, floats by history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 further afield. krónur. as if it were a part of the air condition Light Nights Summer Theatre, -starts at 20:30 An informative and appropriatly taste- system. -Real authentic Icelandic show performed in English, less catalogue is published in connec- including the most thrilling ghost story ever told; For those who appreciate fine art, tion with the exhibition. In it you will find The Deacon of Myrká the Summer Exhibition of Icelandic Art at rare photographs from the infamous Night the Listasafn is a must. Some may even Dubliners, Troubadour Ingi Valur Bad Taste Evenings of the ‘90s, sleazy want to stop by at the coffee shop. De Boomkikker, Troubadour Óskar Einarsson details about its famous members and It´s not about the size, it´s how you use it... inside information on people you have Sonny Greco Tuesday, August 5 never heard of – and in the spirit of Both Day and Night tastelessness there is even a never be- Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- fore seen picture of a poet with a dried Bertrand. cod sticking out of his fly. Splendid! Day Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine penis and penis related selection from various mammals. Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows Skemmtihúsið The- life and work in the years 1950-60. National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of atre, the Saga of selected works by Icelandic artists from the National Gallery's collection. National and University Library, Exhibition of the Guðríður founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens literature, texts and drawings. from 13th of June Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in Skemmtihúsið Theatre performes in English cartography Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic the Saga of Guðríður. A woman´s tremen- Elephant Show dously courageous voyage to Vinland Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five (America) during the Viking era. Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. Information and tickets available at the Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The Tourist Information Centre, Aðalstæti 2, Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar 101 Reykjavík. Sveinsson. Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of Performances in English: Iceland´s first modern sculptor. Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays at 20: Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste 30 and Fridays at 18:00 Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into Performances in German: international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission Sundays and Tuesdays at 18:00 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times 24 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003

ART

HIGH TIME FOR GREENLAND LISTINGS High time is the folk etymology in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, translation of what seems to be historical figures and major events in Icelandic Icelandic key word in summer The Five Elements history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 - hátíð. Hátíð means a festival, krónur. Gallery i8, -11 to 18 -Works of the contemporary festivities, holiday, and there Travel Journals by artists Roni Horn appears to be quite a choice of Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of those all over Iceland as soon as Claire Xuan, contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and crafts. the weather gets a bit friendlier. Reykjavík museum of Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to 17 The majority of these events are -Portraits and Abstractions Viðey Island, -Starts 19:30 -Walk around Island children-oriented, but some offer photography Viðey, with a look at the art of Richard Serra. fun for fully grown humans, too. Night The second weekend of July you May 24th - Sept. 1st Dubliners, Troubadour Ingi Valur could have, for example, entered the Most Flaming Red-Head contest at the Wednesday, August 6 Irish days at Akranes, or, alternatively, Both Day and Night travelled up north to watch the traditional Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- Greenlandic drum dance or learn how to Bertrand. skin and carve a seal. The latter took Day place at Flateyri, a little village in the Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine West Fjords where a four-day festival penis and penis related selection from various mammals. of Greenlandic culture was organized by Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows Kalak, a Greenland - Iceland friendship life and work in the years 1950-60. National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of association. The chairman of the Miki Jacobsen, untitled, etching 2003. Miki is the frontman of Appap papii, a seven-man selected works by Icelandic artists from the association, the Greenlander Benedikta music group from Nuuk that specializes in all kinds of drums National Gallery's collection. Thorsteinsson is, among others things, National and University Library, Exhibition of the founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens a former member of the Greenland culture than shamans’ humming. The to contradict human anatomy, or even literature, texts and drawings. government living in Iceland. east coast supplied a world-famous holding a lit cigarette that did not go Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in Flateyri was not chosen because of traditional drum dancer as well as a off. That it was not just another lame cartography Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic its location, the organizers hoping the rock band on one hand and a choir show for dumb tourists was proved by Elephant Show guests might actually catch glimpses of on the other. The choir among others the oohs and aahs the onlooking fellow Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five Greenland proper from the fjord shore, sang at the Sunday mass, read by the kayakers uttered. Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- This exhibition is based on the travel Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. but because of the special ties that have former prime minister of the Greenland Having been given mental nutrition, journals of the French-Vietnamese Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The been binding the two places for the past government and attended by an festival guests were not to go Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar artist Claire Xuan and features a col- seven years. In 1996 a disastrous snow incredible number of people, given the physically hungry either. The fact that Sveinsson. lection of artistic photography and Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of avalanche hit the village, damaging wild partying of the night before. From the monstrous barbecue devices were Iceland´s first modern sculptor. reproductions of original etchings. 29 houses and killing 20 people, and the south of Greenland came a choir set up next to a tub with a cute baby Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to The photographs are processed as 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste Benedikta Thorsteinsson organized that presented traditional Greenlandic seal got me quite worried, but soon lithographs and on paper made from Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into fund raising in Greenland to help Flateyri group dance, while a music group from a motorboat arrived with a somewhat international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission natural materials. Between the sheets recover from the shock. The festival was Nuuk played traditional Greenlandic as bigger seal caught in the sea. The seal 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. are thin sheets of paper (papyrus), Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times to be an opportunity for Greenlanders well as African drums plus whatever was dragged to land, and immediately printed with special features and writ- in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur else they could get their skinned, carved and dissected by the Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, ten characters of different countries. hands on and soon had skilled hands of Greenlandic women. The historical figures and major events in Icelandic The unification of the five fundamen- history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 the reserved Europeans baby seal was left in peace for children tal elements in Asia is the source of krónur. stamping their feet and to pet; still I think we were quite lucky Gallery i8, -11 to 18 -Works of the contemporary Claire´s inspiration for the concept of artists Roni Horn clapping their hands. The Madame Bardot was elsewhere. her travel journals, which span the past Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of frontman of the group We were also lucky the rainy weather contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and six years of her career in five different is also a graphic artist changed its mind in the end, and last crafts. countries; Vietnam, Paris (France), Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to 17 with international artistic night’s bonfire and open-air concert took Morocco, Madagascar and Iceland. -Portraits and Abstractions training background and place without any emergency relocating. Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both On her travels around the globe, Claire an exhibition of his works By that time locals, participants and international and Icelandic contemporary art. seeks out different aspects of the five showed Greenlandic art guests had mixed into a homogenous Night natural elements; wood, fire, earth, Dubliners, BT and family: Various musicians play is not necessarily bone mass, and when the presenter metal and water and photographs together as a band in a random apperance carvings over and over. introduced the last song of the night, Sirkus, Jazz DJ them. The Icelandic a piece written by a local songwriter Gaukur á Stöng, The band Ókind Although Claire Xuan’s photographs part of the festival was and sort of Flateyri’s national anthem, clearly comprise the majority of her Thursday, August 7 Warning: there actually were some seals harmed in making a powerful argument as “a song everybody knows and can work, they should not be considered Both Day and Night of this picture against the belief that therefore sing along, if there is anybody alone as the most significant work of Austurvöllur out door exhibition, Earth from culture in places smaller who does not know it, will they please Above. Aerial Photographs by Yann Arthus- the exhibition; the presentation display to see the beautiful and sometimes than Reykjavik is non existent. The leave the premises immediately”, even Bertrand. box in itself is equally important. dangerous landscape and for Icelanders village had obviously produced at least strangers such as me were able to join Day The concepts of binomial and diptych Reðursafnið, Phallological Museum, A fine to get acquainted with the culture of their two competent song-writers, who have in the refrain at least. were primarily considered when select- penis and penis related selection from various Atlantic neighbours. both come to the festival to contribute Greenlandic nights was a festival mammals. ing the works for this exhibition. Seen Unfortunately, the malicious gods to the fun. Furthermore, the local doctor of bright summer nights, when the sun Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum, An exhibition shows from that perspective, the photographs life and work in the years 1950-60. of sea cargo played yet another of not only played the role of a tireless would only symbolically pop down below illustrate surprising common features, National Gallery of Iceland, Exhibition of their cheeky tricks and the container, presenter, but turned out to be the the horizon so that there was plenty of selected works by Icelandic artists from the which may be observed in the same carrying genuine Inuit tents, clothes director of a prize-winning film and a time and light for entertainment. There National Gallery's collection. elements in different conditions and in National and University Library, Exhibition of the and other equipment, ended up making singer and musician. Two VIP’s native were organized events for sure, but what founder of the city´s documentation, also, childrens different places in the world. a grand tour of European ports instead to the area came to give speeches, the charmed me most was how people who literature, texts and drawings. Admisson free. Culture House, Images of Iceland - milestones in of sitting nicely in front of Vagninn, minister of agriculture had the audience until then had known little about each cartography Flateyri´s number one pub and the roaring with laughter at some dirty other, enjoyed time together. Now and Norræna húsið, Nordic House, The Big Nordic ultimate meeting point. It did not seem jokes as well as jokes on local politics again, I get surprised at the enthusiasm Elephant Show Reykjavik Museum of Photography, The Five to have done any major damage to the (ed. note: who’d have thought he had and energy that Icelanders put into Elements. Photographs and etchings from French- festival, and the lack of seal skin tents a sense of humour? Apparently, this is organizing fun for themselves. The Vietnamese artist Claire Xuan. was made up for by the atmosphere. For Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, The never shown to us city dwellers), while roads to the West Fjords were teeming West of the Sun, North Modern Man, works of popular sculptor Ásmundar four days Flateyri became a little melting a member of the parliament held a with cars that were transporting whole Sveinsson. pot, where Greenlandic, Icelandic and lecture on a hobby horse of his, Iceland families to places of obscure names and of the Moon, Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, The works of Faeroese elements were mixing with Iceland´s first modern sculptor. - Greenland historical relationships. The population counts in the tens, because Nordic House Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum, -10 to the local Polish population, spiced up by visual arts Icelandic counterparts were some family holiday or another was 17 -Lobster or Fame Two Decades of Bad Taste three Americans who are at the moment landscape paintings by a fisherman from held there. So next time you drive in the Ltd. Also Erró´s War paintings and Insight into Until August 31st international contemporary art in Iceland. Admission kayaking around Iceland and stopped by Ísafjörður by trade, who first started country, watch out for flags flapping in 500 ISK. Free on Mondays. to take part in the kayak competition. dabbing in painting in his leisure time on the summer breeze, the unmistakable The Nordic House duly throws in Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, -10 to 17 -New times Communication was as smooth as ever in Icelandic Photography. Admission 500 krónur boat. sign of such an event - you may end up its share to this summer’s Atlantic Saga Museum, -10 to 18 -History face to face, and whatever feelings may be against Flateyri has, of course, as any experiencing a genuine Icelandic hátíð spirit and sets up an exhibition of historical figures and major events in Icelandic the mainland oppressor, the fact of the other decent Icelandic settlement with first-hand. 48 photographs from Greenland, history presented in a unique way. Admission 800 krónur. matter is that the official language of population in the plurals, a swimming Beata Rödlingova the Faeroe Islands and Iceland in its Gallery i8, -11 to 18 -Works of the contemporary the festival beside Icelandic was Danish, pool, where you could learn foyer. The exhibition is organized artists Roni Horn even to such an extent that when one of Eskimo turns and which the Handverk og Hönnun, -13 to 17 -Exhibition of into sets of 3 photographs, one contemporary and traditional Icelandic art and the music bands addressed the audience Greenlandic guests took from each land, bringing to light the crafts. in English, there were protesting voices. by storm, as pools and parallels and differences between Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, -14 to 17 The look of the village occasionally -Portraits and Abstractions swimming are a rare pastime the three lands. The photographs Safn, -14 to 18 -Collection includes both proved more than my poor confused in Greenland and, surprisingly, were taken by Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson international and Icelandic contemporary art. mind could cope with, and whenever the many Greenlanders actually during his extensive travels in the Night concentration of Greenlandic flags and cannot swim at all. During an region. His fellow traveller Ari Trausti Dubliners, BT and family: Various musicians play people running to and fro in seal skin together as a band in a random apperance afternoon kayak presentation Guðmundsson, a geologist and writer, Kráin 73, Live music clothes reached a critical level, I had to at the harbour, the kayak provided the text. Grand Rokk, -Starts 22:00 -The bands Moody give my brain a silent ‚Flateyri, Iceland instructor showed what our Open Mon-Sat 8-17, Sun 12-17, Company, Tenderfoot, Fritz. Admission 500 krónur chant. poor attempts should really Admission free The four days offered a variety of look like, performing Eskimo events in both kind and provenience, turns while holding the paddle proving there is more to Greenlandic in ways that simply seemed Traditional Greenlandic drum dance 24 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 26 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003

BELFAST AND THE IRA remember the accepted reality behind article BY the rhetoric. Just as nationalists, without of course having to say so, were tacitly accepting the union with Britain in return for an affairs deal within the province, BOYCE JOHN moderate Unionism tacitly accepted Last February I was sitting in a bar in Belfast when that it was not in the perimeters of the political gift of even Adams to wind police entered and said there´d been a bomb threat. up a deeply ingrained paramilitary No one got up, they just kept on drinking their pints organisation in an instant, and that the as officers looked under chairs and tables. After 30 disappearance of the IRA would be a gradual process. Moderate unionists, years of civil war, it takes more than a bomb threat for in reality at least, were not demanding people to abandon their beers. But have things really a complete inactivity but, at least, the appearance of it assuming that Sinn changed, and if so, can it last? Fein and the IRA are still committed to One of countless murals, this one obviously Catholic, decorating secterian areas. the implementation of the agreement. Embarrassing fiascos like the arrest Once upon a time about 800 years successive British administrations and, assembly were postponed. Suspicions the battle and losing the war Thatcher of three IRA members in Columbia that ago in a green and distant isle, a ominously for the nationalist minority, that postponement came at the tacit refused to bend as ten prisoners, one have made Trimble’s position within young clansman called Diarmaid was the unionist political elite were left to run behest of Trimble, who of all the players after another, slipped into a coma and Unionism all but untenable is hardly good having trouble with his neighbours so the show. Fast-forward to the swinging had most to lose by going to the polls, died. The anger and bitterness of the news for Republicans either. However, he decided to invite one Mr Strongbow sixties, the smell of revolution is in the air has not helped the credibility of the protest reenergised a waning PIRA there are, one suspects, many devotees from across the water to help keep them and northern Catholics, inspired by the democratic process. for another ten years of low intensity within Republicanism of the zero sum in line. likes of Luther King, take to the streets In a province so politically polarised, warfare and helped put Sinn Fein firmly game theory; that Unionist turmoil Not the 13th centurys brightest idea as to shake off fifty years of dreary bigotry where unionists and nationalists vote en on the political map. Adams twin track whatever its source is somehow good it turned out, the sea in question being and discrimination. block, the political action is often hottest strategy of the armalight and the ballot news for Nationalists. the Irish one and Strongbow a not so The rest of the tale is sadly familiar. within rather than between these divided box was born. This notion of a zero sum game brings nobleman from England, whose arrival Demands for civil rights lead to civil communities. From a low of less than 8% in the us to the ultimate sticking point on heralded the beginning of what was to strife, and latent Irish Republicanism and It is these very tensions and the 1984 elections, Sinn Fein have climbed which this or any other agreement could be eight centuries of colonisation with Unionist reaction fuse as the province resulting shifts in power that will shape to almost 18% of the province’s vote, well flounder. Because of Unionisms all the murder and mayhem that this slides into war. events in the months and years ahead, overtaking the SDLP as the largest longstanding dominance in the province implies. After centuries of false start Sunningdale, the province’s first indeed the next election, provisionally nationalist party in last British general there is an inevitable feeling within that set for the autumn, will perhaps be the defining moment for the life or death of the peace process in its current form. Sinn Fein were born of the horror that In the Unionist camp, support for the Good Friday agreement has ebbed was the H block hunger strikes of ´81 steadily since it’s signing. Recently, however, support has gone into freefall. election. As Sinn Fein considers itself community that they have everything to UUP leader Trimble, one of the architects an all Ireland party, its long hoped for lose and nothing to gain and vice versa of the agreement, is in dire political breakthrough in the Republic of Ireland, for the Nationalists. Support for the trouble. Three years of ceaseless picking up five seats in the last election, agreement, holding steady in the high internal divisions and countless rebellions has brought particular satisfaction and 80s on the nationalist side and now well from the anti agreement members of more importantly, vindication for Adams below 50% among Unionists would seem the party have left him critically, if not ceasefire strategy. to bare out this perception. And in a fatally, wounded. After surviving another As ever Sinn Fein’s relationship with divided community like Northern Ireland, challenge to his strategy recently the IRA is at the heart of the dispute full of tension, argument and violence, Trimble finally suspended his three with Unionism. To fully understand potential perception is everything. leading tormentors, an action unlikely to the current impasse it’s important to heal divisions in the short term but seen as vital to retaining Trimble’s credibility as leader of a rapidly imploding party. Long the dominant unionist grouping The police still drive armour plated Land Rovers with bulletproof windows. in the province, its position at the centre of what is increasingly viewed as a failed process has seen the Ulster movements and failed revolution Irish attempt at power sharing in 1974, and Unionist Party take a battering at the nationalism got serious at the turn of on which the current model is roughly polls. Ian Paisley’s Democratic Unionist the century. The 1916 rising, though in based, collapsed under the weight of Party (DUP) has been the principal itself a military fiasco, proved a potent a massive Unionist strike. There would beneficiary and is gaining fast. Were symbol on which to build a revolutionary be ten more years of dirty war before the not entirely unlikely to happen and movement and led to the extraordinary the rise of Sinn Fein as the political wing the DUP became the largest Unionist rise of Sinn Fein, who by 1919 was the of the IRA, which, under the direction of party at the next election, their publicly largest party on the island with a growing Gerry Adams, set the province on the avowed policy of renegotiation of the militant wing. A virtual declaration of long and winding road back to the sanity whole deal could spell the death knell independence quickly led to a war of of a political settlement. of the Good Friday agreement. A further independence, evolving into civil war It is now almost ten years since the complication is the increasingly volatile over the controversial terms of the first historic IRA. ceasefire and almost Unionist paramilitaries for whom the peace treaty with the British. The leading five since the groundbreaking Good peace process has been an unmitigated A Belfast police station. bone of contention was the exclusion of Friday agreement, the accord that set disaster. Unlike the IRA, loyalist paramilitary groups never established a political power base that would give them The 1916 rising, though a fiasco, proved a seat at the table when the time came Will the real IRA please The remaining members remained to talk. Consequently, in the elections stand up? convinced that only a military a symbol on which to build a revolution to the new power-sharing assembly What with the real IRA, the Provisional campaign would push the British out their hastily constructed political fronts IRA, the Continuity IRA, the Official of Ireland the northern part of the island from the out the political future of the province. made almost no impact against the UUP IRA and the Old IRA, telling your The Official IRA, as the majority fledgling Irish state. Partition of the After five years of stalling, and the DUP. As their marginalisation nationalists militant groups apart can became known, quickly faded into country was at the political behest of the suspensions, disputes, court battles and increases, so does frustration and it is be a tricky business. obscurity, while those who split, majority Protestant population who, loyal of course violence and civil unrest the no surprise that in recent years loyalist The Old IRA refers to pre containing the likes of Adams and to the British crown, had no wish to join agreement seems dangerously close to paramilitaries have been responsible independence days. Often called The McGuinness, emerged as the dominant a Catholic nationalist state. disintegration and death by a thousand for much of the sporadic violence in the Good IRA, reflecting a general belief nationalist paramilitary force, the After independence the northern cuts. Earlier this year David Trimble, province, not only against nationalists that Ireland’s violent Independence Provisional IRA. mini state was actively ignored by leader of the Ulster Unionists (UUP) the but, even more spectacularly, amongst movement 1919/1920 had a Twenty years later, when the largest party in the province, themselves. legitimacy that the more recent provisional IRA, after secret talks with walked out of the power sharing In the late sixties there was only one campaign lacks. the British government, announced assembly in protest at continued major political force on the nationalist After the disastrous border a ceasefire, a small section of the IRA activity, most notoriously side, The Social Democratic and Labour campaign of the fifties Republican organisation in true Republican tradition an alleged spy ring close to Party (SDLP), a moderate constitutional militant potential lay dormant untill split from Adams and Co. and declared the heart of government, thus party. The IRA until the late seventies the late sixties, when it erupted once their intention to continue violent triggering a return to direct rule retained a lofty distain for the workings again in the wake of civil rights unrest. resistance to the British presence. from Westminster. Trimble’s of the political process. Then along The old IRA network was largely These dissidents, tiny though they conditions for a return include came Sinn Fein. Very much the brainchild unprepared for the possibility of armed were, managed to split again to form the virtual disbandment of the of Gerry Adams, Sinn Fein were born of insurrection. A year of an escalating both the Continuity IRA and the Real IRA, a concession that Sinn the horror that was the H block hunger IRA campaign saw the first of many IRA, the latter being responsible for the Fein is unlikely, unwilling and strikes of ´81 when IRA prisoners splits emerge in the Republican biggest single attack of the troubles, probably unable to make. In refused food to protest the stripping of movement. About two thirds of the the Omagh bombing which killed 29 The peace wall seperating the Catholics and the prods. the absence of any agreement their prisoner of war status by Margaret movement advocated a ceasefire people in 1998. last month’s elections to the Thatcher. In a classic case of winning followed by political talks. 26 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003

WE’RE ON A MISSION FROM GOD

LIVE MUSIC

YOU NEVER DRINK ALONE

Smiðjustíg 6, p: 551-5522 28 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 29

WANDERINGS

CHURCHES SOME FUN PLACES TO VISIT AND WORSHIP IN Photos: Aldís Hallgrímskirkja Laugarneskirkja The mother of them all. Sort of spaceshippy and/or Guðjón Samúelsson was the state architect of Iceland from phallic in appearance. Took a lifetime to complete, as 1924-1950, and designed many churches, including the it was originally planned in 1914, construction started Catholic Church and Hallgrímskirkja as well as the National in 1945, and it was finally consecrated in 1986. Theatre. This church was consecrated in 1949, and is not Named after 17th century priest and poet one of his most original Hallgrímur Pétursson, who wrote an works, as it looks a lot epic poem about the martyrdom of like the church he built in Christ, and married a woman Akureyri a year earlier. who had previously been Legend has it that abducted by Turks, Hallgerður Langbrók, before dying of wife of Gunnar from leprosy. The Njálssaga, lived area housed here and that she barracks during is buried in the World War Two. The graveyard after having view from the tower caused her mans death by is probably the best in refusing to ruin her town. Outside the church hairdo so he could is a statue of the heathen mend his bowstring Leifur Eíríksson, whereas when under attack, inside is a lifesize apparently because (presumably) statue of he had slapped her Jesus himself. once. Let that be a lesson... Kópavogskirkja Designed by the same architect as Langholtskirkja, but very different in design. Known for its stained glass windows designed by sculptor Gerður Helgadóttir, which follow the bow shape of the walls and said to create a mysterious atmosphere in the way they filter daylight. People Langholtskirkja supposedly go there A rather recent church, consecrated in 1984. Apparently as much for the has great acoustics, and concerts are frequently held great view as the there. Among notable performers have been Faeroese closeness to God. singer Eivör Pálsdóttir. The house choir is apparently The church has had one to watch out for, as it won 3 gold medals in a its share of organ choir competition in Tampere, Finland. Perhaps we problems, and is should try entering it in Eurovision. The church also currently on its fourth houses AA meetings, but how this affects the choir is, organ. The first was as yet, undocumented. The choir is currently in its 50th a harmonium owned anniversary, as will be celebrated by the church. The by a nearby school, the second only lasted for 7 years before being sold off and the area was farmland until about 1960, when encroaching 3rd, lasting from 1964 to 1997 was very vulnerable for climate changes. Let us hope urbanisation forced the farmers away. they won’t be looking for a new organ donor soon.

Kristskirkja í Landakoti Neskirkja Iceland’s last Catholic bishop, Consecrated in 1957, it has been called the first modern church in Iceland, Jón Arason, was executed as it was built for other uses than just preaching. This probably was a in 1550, and has since, reflection of declining church attendance. Even the architect realised this paradoxically for a supposedly and did not bother to put up a belfry, as he felt there was no need for one Lutheran country, become on a modern church, probably as something of a national hero no one would heed the call anyway. for standing up to the Danes. As bars have become the more Following his death, every Dane popular places for gatherings and in the country was killed, but no spiritual refreshment, churches one saw this as a good time to declare independence, and Danish have responded to this competition rule was silently reimposed. Was known at the time for being a by housing more and more AA staunch advocate of literacy, and for raising some of the best sheep meetings. Other attempts at on the island. Modern genetic research has proven that he is in modernisation include broadcasting fact the direct ancestor of every living Icelander. Catholicism was mass directly over the internet, and relegalised in 1874, and they got their first church in 1897. This, the churchmobile, which drives the current Catholic church, was consecrated in 1929. around the area every Sunday. 28 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 29

OUTSIDE THE CITY

ICELAND: A USERS MANUAL CLOSE LOOK AT THE FIRST WEEKEND IN AUGUST

SÍLDARÆVINTÝRI Á SIGLUFIRÐI COUNTRY FESTIVAL AT SKAGASTRÖND Siglufjörður is the northernmost town in Iceland. In the first half of NEISTAFLUG NESKAUPSSTAÐ Has both kinds of music, Country the 20th Century, it was the best port and Western. Immortalised in a 1984 for herring fishing, the “silver of the The biggest town in the east. The film by Friðrik Þór Friðriksson. Run sea,” people came there in droves festival is held by the local blues, by the original Icelandic Cowboy looking for employment and a sort of rock and jazz club, Brján, who play Hallbjörn Hjartarson, who has so gold rush fever reigned. The herring on Friday. Stuðmenn, the country’s far released 8 C&W albums and also disappeared in 1968, but the festival best goodtime band play on the runs a radio station, sadly only heard still bears its name. Sunday evening. Also hosts the Golf in the North. Don’t forget the whisky Championship of the North Country, and the beans. Or the hat. and Tour de Norðfjörður. Entrance is free.

INNIPÚKINN, REYKJAVÍK IÐNÓ THEATRE, SAT. 2ND AUG

For those who are not attracted by the prospect of rolling around dead drunk in a sleeping bag in the great GALTALÆKUR outdoors, this is undoubtedly the best option. It is in fact the most The sober family festival, supposedly, music orientated of the festivals, with as alcohol is not permitted. People some of the best underground bands are said to have gone to great rather than the obligatory jolly cover lengths to smuggle it in, injecting bands of the outdoor festivals. it into oranges supposedly being a favourite method. Still, if you have the little uns along, and can stay in a tent without drinking yourself to NATIONAL FESTIVAL sleep, this one’s for you. AT VESTMANNAEYJAR

Iceland’s oldest and biggest festival. Apparently, the scenery there is great, but few guests ever notice. The highlight has always been the slope singalong, hosted by politician and artist Árni Johnsen, sort of Iceland´s Jeffrey Archer, who is currently in jail for corruption, but his release might be secured in time.

PLACES TO LOOK AT: 1. THE BLUE LAGOON LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL One of the first stops for any visitor, THE FIRST WEEKEND IN AUGUST and situated very close to Keflavik’s international airport. The lagoons´ mud You wake up hung over in a collapsed of a storm preventing them to sail (editorial note: much is believed to have healing powers, tent. It is raining and there is someone to the mainland. So they decided to the same might be especially for people suffering from that you do not know lying beside you. have their own national festival, which said of Iceland in psoriasis or other skin diseases.The All of your clothes are wet. All of your lasted the whole weekend. It was so general). distinctive blue colour is due to the belongings are either ruined or they much fun they decided to do it again The music sucks warmth and the high level of silicone have been stolen. You are not sure next year. And then every year since. too. It is played by in the water.Sadly, there´s no evidence about what has happened in detail, but To most people it is the nicest festival cover bands who that this increases cleavage size. the fact that some days before you took and personally I prefer it because of all share the same 2. ÞINGVELLIR the healthy decision of packing loads of the sense of history and tradition which sound and same In 930 a.d. the Vikings decided they alcohol in a rucksack and going to the give the festivities increased value as a really bad taste in needed to find a way to settle their countryside to celebrate a bank holiday festival which is not just about drinking music. All of them disagreements, so they founded a weekend seems quite obvious to you your self into oblivion, although this is cover exactly the parliament, and called it Alþingi. Today, given the dreary circumstances. certainly done as well. same songs in although relocated, it is the oldest We make up excuses for drinking There are numerous downsides to exactly the same (sometimes) functioning parliament in the world, The Vikings, when not busy on every occasion. The first Monday these festivals. In the first place the way. When the hacking limbs of one another, were of August is a bank holiday and the expenses are gigantic since you have to bands have been For some reason, single men were frequent visitors to the hospital, although none appeared injured. (Photo: Geiri | http://goto.to/eyjar) quite aware of the beauty of nature and preceding weekend we go to one of get yourself there and then pay to get around long enough picked this breathtaking spot to meet. numerous festivals located all around in, In addition you have to bring three they manage to The American and European continen- the countryside packing everything days worth of alcohol and we all know make their own songs, but since they ethic and prudence is left at home (some tal plates meet precisely here. necessary (alcohol, some food, how expensive that is on our island. have only been playing cover songs, take it too seriously though… hence the 3. GULLFOSS & GEYSIR alcohol, some clothing and, of course, And the weather usually sucks. It is not their own material tends to be a pop rapes) so the fun can be pretty damn Usually these two are mentioned to- alcohol) and leaving behind everything uncommon that it rains a lot and it gets music in a bizarre mixture of other crazy and it is said that EVERYONE gets gether, partly because of geographic unnecessary (ethics and prudence). so stormy sometimes that the tents music styles and genres. Therefore it is laid causing a birth explosion in May proximity, partly because they both Among the oldest and most popular blow out in the wind. The crime rate not uncommon to hear in one song a hint since nobody has sense to use proper start with the letter G. Geysir is the festivals would be Galtalækur (Boars also explodes. There was an incident of some eighties glamour metal, some protections in his or her drunken stupor. geyser from which all geysers derive Creek) and Vestmannaeyjar (Westman in a festival called Eldborg a couple of seventies disco and funky death-metal, (editorial note: this is not literally true. their name. Sadly, it rarely erupts these Islands). Galtalækur has gained a years ago when a gang of guys gave even all at once in a strange mix. It may Grapevine has found out the hard way to days, the family business having been reputation as a family festival for dried up “date-rape” drugged drinks to girls and look interesting on paper but do not be never trust statisticians.) taken over by heir Strokkur. Gullfoss is alcoholics… so many a teenager takes then they walked around gang banging fooled… it is truly bad to listen to and to Things to bring: Alcohol, food, tent, generally thought to be Icelands most his first steps towards alcoholism during their passed out victims using an igloo enjoy it you have to either be a person warm and water resistant clothing beautiful waterfall, hence the name, that festival, smuggling in booze by any tent which they had cut out the bottom with absolutely no taste in music or (umbrellas are not enough). Places meaning “Golden Waterfall.” means possible. It is now only a family off so they could put it over the girls and sufficiently out of it to enjoy it ironically. to go: Vestmannaeyjar, Galtalækur, 4. LANDMANNALAUGAR festival and not run by AA anymore, do their thing in peace. Given that we Icelanders drink a lot we Akureyri, Kántríbær (the northern Probably one of the most popular jeep so maybe the teenage drinking has Apart from such atrocities, which can not blame these bands existence on wild wild west celebration), and many excursions tours is a round trip from decreased. Vestmannaeyjar have their fortunately are rare but do happen, anyone but ourselves since we make up others… posters are everywhere. Reykjavik to Landmannalaugar. Not own national holiday. The reason for festivals can be pretty claustrophobic, the masses who ultimately attend their Bands to avoid: Írafár (avoid the singer surprising since Landmannalaugar is actually a natural swimming pool in a special national holiday on an island since you are in an isolated place which shows, but foreigners beware, do not and 2003 Eurovision contestant Birgitta the middle of Iceland’s highland desert. which is (still) Icelandic, dates back to you can not just walk away from if it gets let your selves get sucked in… you will Haukdal), Í Svörtum Fötum (avoid that Don’t bring shampoo or soap because 1874, when the granting of the first boring… actually I think that is one of regret it for ever! singer too), Skítamórall, Á Móti Sól, this pool is so natural that we wouldn’t constitution by the king of Denmark was the main reasons for this excessively The upside can be the fun of going Buttercup. want to spoil it would we? If you’re up to being celebrated. The Vestmannaeyjar heavy drinking… you just have got out of the city and live completely free of Follow the above, and let the a 12 hour journey, most of the time in- folk wanted to take part in the festivities enjoy yourself somehow, otherwise you all boundaries of clubs and their dress good times roll. side a huge jeep, it is usually worth it. but could not make it there on account realise where you are and get depressed codes. As stated above, every sense of Aðalsteinn Jörundsson 30 - the reykjavík grapevine - july 25th - august 7th, 2003

MISCELLANEOUS

THE VOICE OF THE RESISTANCE Anyone who read John Boyce´s things seems to be to saturate us with run by someone up in Akureyri called in the 91 Gulf War, to an interview with taxes, our presence (or lack thereof) article on the media (issue 2) should information until we become numb to it Paul Fontaine-Nikolov, who claims the a member of the Icelandic Left-Green at the polls, our military service--what have realised that said media are not all (would pictures of starving children in idea came to him when he was a drug Party. else do the powerful rest upon but this? to be trusted. It seems that in the Ethiopia elicit the same response as it smuggler in Tangiers in ´47, while The mag´s manifesto sounds The distance between the rulers and the information society we are bombarded did even in 1984, now that horrors are drinking with William Burroghs. Whether something like: “What I would like to ruled is much shorter than it seems; they by the media 24/7, all of it telling us the brought into our living room every night). this story is historically accurate or not is see accomplished with the help of sit upon our very shoulders, and can be same thing, and ultimately, is seems, Our only non-violent response to this is of no consequence, what is important is Apsaras Review is that every-day people put on the earth with as little effort as owned by the same people. Where to point out where alternative sources that the company, Kremena Publishing, from around the world can come here it takes to shrug. Of course, such an Iceland only a decade ago had almost of information, not run by corporate is currently looking for new talent to and express their point of view about action will never be possible without a a dozen newspapers, it now has only interests, can be found. publish in its netzine. It´s aim is twofold, what’s going on around them, that other little solidarity. I hope Apsaras Review three. But the truth, as the saying goes, The internet is still a free forum for to help unknown writers be heard, and to people around the world can respond can contribute to just such a solidarity.” is out there. You just need to know opinions. Anyone can use it to say use the proceeds to help organisations to them, and that this forum grows in Send your submissions to: www.kre where to look, and ignore the headlines. whatever he wants. However, it is so such as Amnesty International, United both strength and volume. Dialogue can menapublishing.com, or read the thing In the communist countries the vast that all opinions almost have the Nations Children´s Fund ( UNICEF ) and lead to understanding, understanding at: www.kremenapublishing.com/ strategy of the powers that be was to effect of cancelling each other out. It Cambodian Mine Action Center. If can lead to unity, and unity can take ar10259x35.html. keep information about the outside world is hence our duty to point out the sites that´s not worthwhile, then at least it us anywhere. All the power in “running from the masses. This failed completely. that are saying something that sounds beats sheepshagging. Their current the world” only seems to belong to the Vladur In capitalist ones, the strategy of like a reasonable approximation of truth. issue includes everything from a first wealthy and the politicians. The fact whomever it is who ultimately runs One of these is Apsaras Review. It is person account inside an aircraft carrier is, we run the world. Our labour, our

FUNNY MONEY Icelanders are stubborn, independent the exception of tourists there are only wish they never came into contact with embroidering, but, it seems, nothing it could hardly send you into a drunken and extremely proud of their history, a few Icelandic purists that still use the credit cards to begin with. The 5000kr else. Grapevine recommends Vigdís bliss, depending on your stamina. It which is fine. Iceland’s currency note. Others have taken credit and debit note is very special for one reason, it Finnbogadóttir, former president (and should get you about 10 pints. To get reflects these things being both cards and do not carry around paper is the only króna note with a woman on first female president anywhere) as a to the drunken bliss state, a short stop colorful, and full of history. The bills money at all, though most Icelanders it, and it seems the lady is there for no replacement, she at least has some at the local liquor store with a budget have pictures of historically famous other reason but historical value for Iceland and the rest mentioned above would do the trick, or important people, while the coins because she’s a of the world. Or perhaps even Björk. a case of beer or a couple of bottles have etchings of various types of fish she. Her name But perhaps you have to be dead to of “Brennivín” (Icelandic vodka) could (reflecting Iceland’s biggest industry). is Ragnheiður make it onto a note, unless, of course, be purchased without difficulties. A Still, you probably haven’t got a clue J ó n s d ó t t i r you´re royalty. Also on the front is the very decent restaurant in downtown who these people are, or what type ( 1 6 4 6 - 1 7 1 5 ) bishop, and his first two wives and on Reykjavik would not charge you much of fish it is on you’re the coins, and if and she was the back is Ragnheiður again, doing more then 5000kr for a lunch, for two you simply don’t care, don’t read any the 3rd wife her thing. even, unless you´re too extravagant. further than this. of bishop Gísli What’s it worth? The note might even cover the prize The last in the family of króna notes, Þ o r v a l d s s o n . If you are insane enough to drink at of a cheap pair of jeans somewhere at and the most valuable of them all, is R a g n h e i ð u r bar in Iceland, one purple 5000kr note Laugavegurinn. the 5000kr note. Still it seems that with was known for could at least get you a little dizzy, but Jóndi

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