History La Plata 1 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX

A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 2 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX

Employees FROM THE DIRECTOR Carolyn Bowra Carolyn Bowra, Museum Director W e’re here! Whether we arrived at will explore the many ways people have Jan Postler, Curator of Collections Mercy Hospital or the La Plata County travelled to our area, and what compelled Brianna McCormick, Museum Assistant Airport, we are here. Some arrive by car them to do so. for a vacation, others have been here Journey Stories is part of Museum on Board of Directors for generations, but we are all here. The Main Street, a collaboration between the stories of how we came to be in La Plata Smithsonian Institution and State Hu- Kathy McKenzie, President Gay Kiene County are part of our history. This manities Councils nationwide. Support Rani Holt, Vice-President Marilee Jantzer-White edition of History La Plata tells some of for Museum on Main Street has been Marie Roessler, Secretary-Treasurer Bruce Spining those stories. From the earliest travelers provided by the United States Congress. Charles DiFerdinando Jennifer Stollman who passed through southwest Colo- Locally, it is supported by Colorado Jeff Johnson Duane Smith (emeritus) rado on their journeys of exploration to Humanities. One fifth of all Americans modern tourists visiting to explore the live in rural areas and one-half of all U.S. scenic beauty of La Plata County, all have museums are located in small towns. Museum Hours a story to tell. Through traveling exhibits, residents of In 2014 we will tell more of those rural areas may experience the Smith- 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday (May – October) stories with help from the Smithson- sonian in their own hometown. It is an 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday (November- April) ian Institution. From January 17 to opportunity not to be missed. March 18 the Animas Museum will host The Smithsonian comes to Durango in The Animas Museum is located at 3065 West 2nd Avenue in Durango Journey Stories, a traveling Smithson- January 2014 but there is no need to wait on the corner of 31st Street and W. 2nd Ave. ian exhibition. The exhibit will explore that long to visit a museum. The Animas modes of travel and Americans’ desire Museum’s current exhibits include to feel free to move. It is the large stories “Forged by Flame” and “Law & Disorder” of immigration, migration, innovation which illustrates that truth, can indeed, and freedom. It is the smaller stories of be stranger than fiction. And as long as family vacations and packing a truck to you are journeying to a museum, visit move for a new job. Additionally, the the other museums in Durango and then Animas Museum is planning an exhibit venture out of town. Many area commu- to compliment the Smithsonian exhibi- nities have wonderful historical and art tion which will tell La Plata County’s museums. Pay them a visit and celebrate journey stories. “Wish You Were Here” how happy we are to be here!

President’s Message Kathy McKenzie ust like fingerprints, our own personal journey is unlike any other person’s story. Animas Museum staff, from left to right: Carolyn Bowra, Brianna McCormick, Jan Postler J Even if we have had company on this journey, our experience is unique to us. Docu- menting and sharing our experiences can be a precious gift to family, friends and even people who will never know us. With technology changing faster than many can keep up with, we need to document our story in a form that will not become obsolete. In fact, many museums are now going back to storing information on paper for just that reason. So whether you are a visitor to our area, a college student or a fourth generation La Plata County family, your journey story is worth preserving. We also need to consider what else, besides events, has become a part of our lives. Many of us have irreplaceable objects we treasure because of their unique past. Writing stories or even simple information about the journey of our keepsakes is very valuable to the present, as well as future generations. So take time to document the history of your mother’s squash blossom necklace or that unusual wooden mask from Ecuador. Mon. - Fri., 8am - 11pm Slip a handwritten note into Grandma’s carnival glass vase so others understand its past. 3124 Main Ave, Durango, CO • (970) 247-0939 Sat., 9am - 11pm • Sun., 9am - 9pm So often we are the only keeper of these journey stories which should not be lost. A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 3 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX EARLy Journeys into LA PLATA COUNTY On the cover: An early touring car receives help from a team of horses in 1910. Photo courtesy Animas Museum Photo Archives.

Passing Through La Plata County… in 1776 I n July 1776 events in Philadel- dium sized and smaller than that phia laid the foundation for our of Los Pinos. It rises in the same nation. Out West, important events sierra farther to the west, and were also occurring. Two Fran- where we crossed it has a larger ciscan missionaries were search- meadow, of good land for farm- ing for a route from Santa Fe, in ing with the aid of irrigation. The today’s New Mexico, to Monterey pastures on the meadow are good, in California. With their party of but not in the immediate vicin- eight other men, they explored ity, although it evidently has them along a route of over 2,000 miles in wet years. Having crossed El and peacefully encountered more Río Florido, we traveled west two than a dozen native tribes. leagues and west-northwest a little Francisco Atanasio Domínquez, more than another two. We went Silvestre Vélez de Escalante and down a rocky and not too lengthy their party left Santa Fe on July 29. incline and arrived at El Río de las The journal kept by Fray Escalante Ánimas, [Animas River] near the provides us a detailed account- western point of La Sierra de la ing of their journey, and a written Plata [La Plata Mountains] where than a quarter of a league. We and August. Among the fruits men- account of some of the earliest it has its origin. We crossed it and entered a narrow valley of abun- tioned there grows a small one of non-native visitors to southwest halted on the opposite side [approxi- dant pastures [Ridges Basin] trav- black hue, pleasant taste…We did Colorado. Excerpts from that jour- mately 4 miles south of downtown eled through it one league to the not proceed ahead today because nal follow. (From The Domínquez- Durango, near today’s aptly named west, and turned west by north- the mounts had not fed enough the Escalante Journal, translated by Escalante Middle School.] It is as west; then after going through a night before and were rather weak Fray Angelico Chavez) large as El Norte [Rio Grande] and leafy forest of good pasturage, we by now, and also because a thick August 7 “…Here it has a large now carried somewhat more water reached El Río de San Joaquin de and prolonged heavy downpour meadow, very abundant with and with greater rapidity, because La Plata.” [La Plata River] made us halt.” [This campsite was pastures, especially of grama grass, here its currents, which run from “It rises at the same point of La near today’s Hesperus.] extensive and good lands for farm- north to south, have a steeper fall… Sierra de la Plata and descends They headed west toward the ing through irrigation, with all the Through here it runs through a box through the same canyon in which Mancos and then Dolores rivers, rest that may be desired for a goodly channel, but farther down it is said there are said to be veins and then north to the Grand Mesa settlement. We stopped in it, nam- to have good meadows. Today eight outcroppings of metallic ore…the and well into Central Utah. The ing it La Vega de San Cayetano. [flat leagues, a little more. [21 miles] terrain is very moist, since it rains expedition turned south passing land along the Pine River, south of There is no good pasturage here, but very frequently because of its prox- through northern Arizona and today’s Ignacio] Today a little more there is some a little farther on.” imity to the sierra; as a result, both back to Santa Fe. Even though than six leagues” [nearly 16 miles] August 9 “…ascended the in- in the mountain forest – which they did not reach Monterey it was August 8 “ …we set out west- cline west of the river, although it consists of very tall and straight a remarkable journey. northwest from La Vega de San is not too lengthy, is quite difficult, pines, scrub oak, and several kinds Cayetano and Río de los Pinos, consisting of plenty of rock and be- of wild fruits- and in its narrow Compiled by Animas Museum staff [Pine River] and at the end of four ing very steep in places. We passed valleys there are the prettiest of leagues arrived at El Río Florido, the small forest on its crest with pastures. The climate here is exces- [the Florida River] which is me- which it must measure a little more sively cold even the months of July A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 4 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX EARLy Journeys into LA PLATA COUNTY Journeys on the Old Spanish Trail By Dr. Douglas M. Knudson T he very long Old Spanish Na- were Pueblos, Apaches and Navajos. herding over 4,000 horses and mules route into central Utah and on south- tional Historic Trail features stories Imagine coming upon the view of the from California toward Santa Fe in the west to California. They realigned the about the mix of people who have Piedra or Los Pinos River lined with 1840s. Thousands of hooves trotted Armijo Route, making it easier, with lived, explored, and traveled on it. family tepees or wickiups, hearing through their clean, clear rivers. The plenty of water and better pastures on The trail, linking Santa Fe, New drumbeats and songs, then seeing the caravan camped on and pastured the the eastern half of the 1,200 mile trail. Mexico to California, passes through stately dances of a hundred people. springtime grasslands regularly used One of the best decisions was to come southwestern Colorado. The Utes Many of the Utes interacted with by Ute horses and sheep. Seeking trib- into Archuleta County via Carracas long ago traded with tribes from the trading and emigrant groups, ute seemed only logical. Canyon, then La Plata, Montezuma, California, Central America, and the usually in a friendly manner. Some and Dolores Counties. Mississippi Valley. Mexican travelers acted as guides or scouts. Others George Calvert Yount Trapping They trapped beaver in the riv- traded in California starting in 1829. may have assisted arrieros (packers) Trip (1830) ers and creeks that flow through A few trappers came west in the with their mules and their packs. Like so many young men in the today’s Southern Ute lands, plus a 1820s. They took the Old Spanish Still others helped with herding the 1800s, North Carolinian George few others to the west. That probably Trail to California starting in 1830. horses and mules coming back from Yount was on the move. He went involved two weeks or more. Yount The tales of these people’s jour- California. Their stories of travel to Missouri where he farmed and and Wolfskill got to know this coun- neys on the trail gives some idea of were oral and are disappearing. fought in Indian battles. try and the Ute people quite well. the early history of La Plata County Some simply sought tribute or He left his wife and three children Their new trail became the Main and southwest Colorado. payment for crossing tribal home- on the farm and moved to Santa Fe Branch of the Old Spanish Trail. lands. The tribute probably was to become a trapper. He trapped in They also packed many south- The Ute People something like a new blanket, a New Mexico, southwest Colorado western Colorado beaver pelts to The Ute people have journeyed all horse, a weapon, or utensils. and Utah. Ute Indians befriended California. They turned them in over Colorado and Utah for thou- Many Utes had seen New Mexican him. He never forgot their kindness. for cash and they both remained in sands of years. They don’t have a story towns, farms, and trappers, but few In 1830, Yount, William Wolfskill, California for the rest of their lives. of “coming from” another place. Their had seen anything like Vigil’s 200 men and 20 other trappers followed a new Wolfskill ranched and raised Valen- oral history says simply, we have lived here forever and their annual jour- neys were their life cycles. Their homeland was two-thirds of Colorado and Utah; they circu- lated through it. Muache, Capote, and Weeminuche Ute bands lived on both sides of today’s Colorado-New Mexico border. Often they were in family groups of a few to a score of people of all ages. During the autumn and spring seasons of 1829-1848, trading caravans from New Mexico passed through southwest Colorado. Ute families were living there, in what we now call Archuleta, La Plata, Mont- ezuma, and Dolores Counties. They saw and hosted some of the travelers. The caravans may have passed near a large ceremonial celebration with many families from several bands of Utes along with guests who This modern map of the Old Spanish Trail shows its journey through today’s La Plata County. Map courtesy of the Old Spanish Trail Association. A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 5 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX EARLy Journeys into LA PLATA COUNTY cia oranges in Los Angeles. Yount gled with land claims on this part did carpentry and repair jobs, then of the continent. During Vigil’s went to the Napa Valley where he 1848 trip, the U.S. and Mexico was granted farmland. He hired signed a treaty that formalized the Caymus Indians who lived in U.S. control over California, New that valley and they established the Mexico, and areas between. first vineyard in now famous Napa Vigil’s huge herd of equines returned Valley. He hosted newcomers who the way he went, through southwest moved into the valley and platted a Colorado. They camped at least new town. Years later it was named 8 times, near the rivers, probably Yountville. making a physical impression on the moist spring soil as well as an emo- Francisco Estevan Vigil’s tional impression on the Ute people. Trading Caravans Kit Carson and George Brew- Vigil’s 1841-42 and 1847-48 erton traveled as Army couriers, a caravans followed the trail’s main bit ahead of the huge group. One route from Santa Fé to Abiquiu, of the messages they carried to NM; then northwest to today’s Santa Fe announced that “all traders sites of Ignacio, Durango, Man- leaving New Mexico for California cos, and Dolores, Colorado; then would have to pay a duty of 20% on to Green River, Parowan and all goods arriving at the first mili- Shivwits, Utah; Moapa and Las Ve- tary post they reach” [in California]. gas, Nevada; and finally to Barstow These big taxes threw a wet blanket and Los Angeles, California. on the woolen blanket trade. Although the Old Spanish Trail Most early eastern writers saw had been regularly traveled, it was the mountain west as “unoccupied” mostly wild country; no forts, or in the early 1800s. Their culture saw way stations offered respite to travel- an individual’s property as limited ers. Only Uto-Aztecan tribes used to a few fenced acres of rich farm the land and could survive on it. land. In contrast, the Utes had a Vigil took large quantities of philosophy of shared use of their woolen goods to trade to Califor- homelands. Utes “occupied” a vast nians in exchange for horses and arid area with a sophisticated system mules. He brought well over 4,000 of living off of the land. horses and mules back to Santa Fe on each trip. He had to split the Dr. James M. Jefferson, Historian, groups into several groups to have Ignacio, CO and Dr. Pablo Vigil, clean water and pasturage for them. Physician, Las Vegas, NM provided Vigil had a positive reputation as research for this article. They, and being courteous, law-abiding, and the author, are members and past a fair and honest commander. His board members of the Old Spanish first trading caravan was accompa- Trail Association. nied by a large number of Mexican and Anglo persons emigrating from New Mexico to California. Vigil was charged with overseeing both groups, although they generally stayed separated by a day or more. Mexico and the U.S. had strug-

A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 6 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX Settlers Arrive They Came to Mine By Charles DiFerdinando T he San Juan Mountains of south- tions and conflict with the Utes kept and farming industries of eastern United States and the western min- western Colorado make up the south- many from even trying. Colorado. With the opening of ing districts that needed cheap labor ern part of the Colorado Mineral Belt With the end of the Civil War and western Colorado and the growth of for the railroad, mining and related that runs through the central moun- emigration of veterans to the West mining and railroads in the San Juan manufacturing industries. Opportu- tains of Colorado. The Pikes Peak looking for a new start, there was re- Mountains, a need for cheap labor nities for a better life in a new land gold rush of 1859 brought national newed interest in the San Juan Moun- brought new immigrants from east- and escape from the poverty and wars attention to the possibility of mineral tains. Reports of mineral finds by ern, central and southern Europe. of Europe attracted Italians, Poles, riches in the Colorado mountains. Charles Baker and others continued Colorado’s population grew rapidly. Slavs, Greeks and Russians. Some Prospectors searched for precious to attract the adventurous to western Due to economic booms and busts, railroads and mining companies metals in other parts of the Colorado Colorado. The Brunot Agreement La Plata County did not grow in the recruited European laborers, offering Territory including the San Juan with the Utes to allow mining activ- same manner. Census numbers for the passage to the U.S. in exchange for Mountains of southwestern Colorado. ity in the western San Juans brought county tell the tale. The population in a period of labor. Between 1891 and Prospecting parties such as the Baker many after 1874. A silver boom at 1880 increased from 1,110 to 5,509 in 1920, 64% of immigrants came from Expedition pushed into the San Juans, Leadville in 1879 placed Colorado in 1890 and 18,054 in 1900. By 1910 the central, southern and eastern Europe. naming the upper Animas River area the national spotlight, again attract- population had dropped to 10,600, and With the growth of hard rock Baker’s Park (today’s Silverton). Due ing fortune hunters. further decreased to 6,630 by 1920. mining, the need for coal to fuel rail- to lack of roads, exploration in the Colorado, prior to 1880, attracted The national trend of increased roads and the associated industries San Juans was limited to only the immigrants of Scandinavian, Irish, immigration from central, south- lead to the development of Colora- most adventurous prospectors. The English, Scottish and German decent ern and eastern Europe after 1890 do’s vast coal deposits and the need extreme winters, mountainous condi- who labored in the mining, railroad, changed the ethnic makeup of the for more labor. Most skilled mining jobs went to northern European immigrants. Miners from Cornwall, England were well-known for mining in dangerous conditions and dealing with water and deep shafts. Cornwall was famous for its deep tin mines that had existed since the Roman occupation of Britain. Welsh miners brought coal mining knowledge and skills to western coal mines. Many mine companies employed English and Scottish managers and superintendants. Harsh working conditions led to labor disputes and attempts to organize labor by unions such as the Western Federation of Miners, Knights of Labor, and United Mine Workers. The unions called for strikes, and many ended in violence. Sometimes new immigrant laborers were brought in as strikebreakers, causing more conflict between estab- lished miners and new immigrants. European migration to the U.S. peaked in 1907 with 1,285,349 ar- rivals. From 1836-1914, 30 million Europeans had immigrated to the U.S. and by 1910 there were 13.5 million Workers at the San Juan Coal Mine, west of Smelter Mountain ca. 1925. Photo courtesy Animas Museum Photo Archives. immigrants living in the U.S. La Plata A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 7 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX Settlers Arrive

County and southwestern Colorado Most coal produced in La Plata communities reflected the ethnic County supplied the railroads, smelt- A Jack P acker’s Journey diversity caused by this large influx. ers, foundries, hard rock mines, busi- The coal camps of Porter, Perins nesses and domestic homes with fuel. Olga Little’s journeys made her a legend and Hesperus in La Plata County Coal was shipped via railroad to the in her own time. Believed to be the only lady employed many foreign born miners. mining camps surrounding Silverton “jack packer” in the annals of the American In 1915 Porter employed 55 miners; and Telluride. The demand for coal West, Olga packed supplies into and ores out of the mines in the La Plata Mountains. only 15 were born in the U.S. Nine- declined greatly by 1930 when the Much has been written about this teen were from England or Wales, 13 smelter closed in Durango and much diminutive, plucky woman who performed from Italy, 3 were from Sweden, while of the hard rock mining had shut strenuous labor, endured harsh conditions in others were from Germany, Austria, down. Perins Coal Camp existed from rugged mountain terrain, and took personal Spain and Ireland. The Hesperus 1906 to1926, when the mine was shut risks that some veteran men packers were Coal Mine was owned by Porter Fuel down. The Porter mine closed in 1908 reluctant to take. Olga Little readies her burros Company and was the major source of after fire destroyed most of the mine Born Olga Schaaf on July 26, 1883 in at the Mayday spur rail line, ca. 1920. revenue for the town of Hesperus. The facilities and ignited the mine. Essen, Germany, Olga was shy of two years Photo courtesy Animas Museum Photo Archives 1900 census lists about 200 residents The introduction of natural gas old when she embarked on her first journey, her as a “mule skinner,” but burro or jack made up of miners, railroad workers, as a domestic fuel for Durango in immigrating to America with her family in packer more accurately describes her, (jen- shopkeepers, laborers etc. 1929 further decreased demand for 1885. They came to Colorado in 1887, set- nies, or female burros, were used, too). The 1911 Hesperus town directo- coal, although many rural homes and tling near Holyoke. Around 1893, the family Stories about Olga’s amazing exploits ry suggests a diverse ethnic popula- towns like Silverton depended on moved again to Chama, New Mexico. abound and have often been recounted in tion with many Welsh, Italian, Irish, coal as a fuel for many more years. Ten-year-old Olga began learning how to newspaper and magazine articles. There Austrian and Hispanic residents. Many small coal mines operated in wrangle both horses and cattle on this 400- was the time three of her burros died in a fall off the Eagle Pass Trail, while the dy- The coal camp of Perins in 1915 the county to provide domestic fuel. mile trek. Family history has it that Indians drove off some of the cattle along the route, namite they were packing survived; or the listed 76 people; many were miners City Coal Mine operated in Horse and several of the eight head of horses died time she heroically rescued her horse after employed by the Calumet Fuel Com- Gulch in southeast Durango, ship- from the effects of high altitude on Raton it slipped on the icy Neglected Trail, sliding pany. Many of the miners had Italian ping via railroad to consumers in and Cumbres Passes. several hundred feet down a steep, snow family names such as Angeloni, Silverton. Its miners lived in south Pulling up stakes again, the Schaafs covered slope; or the time she led a rescue Baudino, Conceno, Richardi, Rizzi, Durango. The San Juan Coal mine lo- relocated to Animas City in the late 1890s. party on an all-day and half-the-night trek Frasca, Longo, Martino, Odoricco, cated on Smelter Mountain provided By age 17, Olga and her younger brother, through deep snow to deliver food for the Toffoli and Zancanella. the San Juan and New York Smelter Alvin, were breaking and training young snowed-in crew at the Neglected Mine. Names of the mine’s key employ- with on-site fuel. horses for ranchers. Driving livery teams, Such stories seem endless. ees help illustrate the ethnic diver- The Hesperus, Ute, and San Juan Olga took sightseers into the mountains In 1913, she married a miner who sity.The mine superintendant was mines were large producers in the and occasionally delivered groceries to fancied her – Scottish immigrant Bill Little. Leo McCormick, Foreman - Tom 1890s. La Plata County’s coal produc- several of the mines. Bill joined her in the packing business for Rowe, Trackman - August Whalberg, tion in 1900 was 438,563 tons and by Flooding in the Animas River basin in several years, but eventually confined Stableman - W.H Thompson, Elec- 1910 the county’s mines produced 1909 proved to be a turning point in Olga’s himself to ranch work and jewelry making trician - M.T. Lommarson, Watch- 664,069 tons and employed 715 people. life. With roads and bridges washed out, on their spread at the mouth of La Plata man - Manuel Martinez, Postmaster/ La Plata County has a long and Frank Rivers couldn’t get supplies to his Canyon. By the late 1930s, both Olga and mine up Junction Creek, and he asked Olga the mines she supplied were slowing down. Storekeeper - John Meston, Saloon interesting mining history, and the if she could lead a pack string up to the Except for an occasional parade or public Proprietor - John Jakino and Driver descendants of many of its ethnic mine. Reluctantly, she agreed. Though she appearance, her remaining burros retired to - David Milinarie. miners still call this area home. didn’t realize it at the time, this one-time job pastures of deep clover. Many immigrants only worked led to a 30-year career packing to and from Olga Little’s extraordinary career was in the mines long enough to save Charles DiFerdinando is a local the remote mines in the La Platas. chronicled in 1958 at the Denver Coliseum money so they could buy land or go historian descended from immigrants At first, Olga used horses for her pack on Ralph Edwards’ popular television show into business. Tony Frasca opened a and emigrants. He is on the LPCHS string. Family stories even mention the “This is Your Life”. Summarizing a life’s shoe repair business in Durango. The Board of Directors. occasional use of mules. She soon learned, journey well-traveled, Edwards stated, Jakino family farmed and had a dairy however, that burros were best for packing. “Wherever tales are told of the days of gold on the Florida Mesa. John Baudino These pint-sized animals were more sure and silver, a part of that glory will always owned a saloon and boarding house footed and even tempered, and could pack land upon your name.” in Durango, and later, the Morning nearly as much as a horse or mule. In recent Star Coal Mine. years, articles about Olga have referred to Robert McDaniel

A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 8 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX Settlers Arrive The Making of Otto Mears By Amron Gravett O tto Mears, often named the from New York City to San Fran- investing in gold min- Pathfinder of the San Juans, is best cisco in 1850 was a grand adventure. ing in California and known as the tireless builder of lines A ship navigating that route sailed Nevada, and developing of communication and travel all over south along the Atlantic coastline ambitious enterprising southwestern Colorado. His activities down to Gran Columbia (present day skills. At the age of 21, in the state have been well document- Panama) and docked at the newly he became a U.S. citizen ed by historians, but it is also worth founded city of Colón. There the and enlisted in the Union investigating his childhood journey, passengers disembarked and begin Army’s First Regiment of the journey that made the man. a horseback trek and dugout canoe California Volunteers. In 1865, Mears arrived in Colo- ride across the isthmus to Panama His military service rado at the age of 24, with an already City. They then boarded another ship took him on foot across adventurous life story. He is credited and headed north along the Pacific Arizona and New Mexico with developing towns, publishing coastline. On both of Mears’ ocean into the fight against the newspapers, building 450 miles of toll voyages he was looked after by an Navajo resistance under roads including today’s Million Dollar older woman and the captain, both Kit Carson. During this Highway, introducing telegraph lines, strangers to the young boy. time one of his jobs was building three railroads, aiding in the Arriving in San Francisco in 1851, as a baker for the sol- negotiation of two Ute treaties, and he found his uncles had already left diers. He developed a being a state representative. In our for the gold mines of Australia and he moneymaking scheme area, he is best known for his work was forced to fend for himself. The where he sold excess in the development of the Sagua- woman who had looked after him put Army-issued flour to che and San Juan Mountain areas of Mears up in her husband’s boarding the Navajos. His profits southwestern Colorado. What is less house where he sold newspapers to totaled $1,500 by the known is his journey before he ar- pay for his room and board, his first time he was discharged rived in Colorado. job. He developed a good wit, a keen on August 31, 1864. With Otto Mears, as shown in a 1959 painting by Juan Menchaca, on exhibit Otto Mears was born in Courland sense of human nature and excellent his grubstake, he set at the Animas Museum. Photo: La Plata County Historical Society Province, Russia (present day Latvia) salesmanship skills, which helped him off looking for the next situations well, he was able to extract on May 3, 1840 to a Russian Jewish succeed throughout the rest of his venture. He spent 1864-65 in Santa what he wanted from them, which mother and an English father. Both life. The area in San Francisco where Fe working as a clerk in the Ellsberg usually involved money. By constantly of his parents had died by his third he settled was called Sydney Town and Amberg firm and then opened applying lessons learned in business birthday and he was sent to live with because its residents were mostly his own store with the assistance and investment ventures from his an uncle, aunt and their 12 children. criminals from the British Common- of the Staab brothers. He learned youth, he succeeded throughout his The arrangement was less than ac- wealth. Among them, English Jim about the cattle business and became life. Otto Mears’ early journey from commodating and after six years, his of the infamous Sydney Ducks was a government beef contractor for boyhood to manhood, from Russia uncle sent him on a lumber freighter hanged by the Vigilance Committee range cattle. He got wanderlust yet to Colorado, proves that he had the across the Baltic Sea to live with around the time that Mears arrived. again and after scouting the region, skills and the moxie to succeed in any another relative in England. This This nine-block red-light district in he hired a team of oxen and wagon endeavor he embarked upon. passage included his first train ride. San Francisco was known for arson, and headed north to Conejos where Looking for more information The living arrangement did not work burglaries, gambling, piracy, pros- his Colorado exploits began. about Otto Mears’ road building out either, and within a year, he set titution and other seedy criminal Clearly, Otto Mears possessed a legacy in the San Juans? Come check sail for six weeks from England to activities. In the 1860s, the area was natural entrepreneurial zeal. He came out the exhibit titled “Trails, Roads, New York City on a ship full of Irish renamed the Barbary Coast after the to America at a time when thousands and Rails” at the Animas Museum. immigrants. Here he stayed with region in North Africa where Arab of other European immigrants were an uncle for nearly a year before he pirates attacked Mediterranean ships. seeking a new life. Exemplifying the Amron Gravett is a librarian and in- was shipped out yet again, this time From ages 11 to 21, Mears lived new American ideals, he seized op- dexer at Wild Clover Book Services. to San Francisco, to live with four in San Francisco and around the Cal- portunities as they arose. Mears’ abil- uncles who were reportedly living ifornia gold fields working in various ity to turn these opportunities into there at the time. mercantile and freighting businesses, successes was due as much to luck as The voyage of a lone ten year old milking cows, learning tinsmithing, to his practical intelligence. Reading A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 9 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX Settlers Arrive “Rough Going” to Durango

Edna Dell Nephew arrived in Durango in the summer of 1911 at age 22. Originally a school teacher from Ohio, she traveled west as escort to an elderly aunt who was desirous of visiting family in Denver. On arriving in the capital, Edna began to make plans to visit an uncle in Durango. Edna’s relatives could not imagine why she would want to go so far out of the way stating, “Good Lord Edna, what do you want to go to Durango for! I’ve been there before and it’s a jumping off place.” Even so, she pushed on, daring the 24 hour train ride over the Rocky Mountains on the Denver and Rio Grande (D&RG) which her cousin referred to as “Dirty & Rough Going”. Miss Nephew bore the hardships of the journey well. She slept sitting up in the day car with a rented pillow. “I was divided between awe and fear as we went around and around, passing the same section-house four times; each time a little higher… ”As the train approached town, Edna thought, “Thank God I have tickets home.” When the train pulled into Durango proper, the sight of the platform and the big depot made it all seem somehow less remote. Edna spent the rest of her life in La Plata County working as a teacher, first in the Animas Valley, then later in Elco, south of Durango. In 1911 Miss Nephew was introduced to Mr. John Bryce, and the two were married in 1914. Edna continued to educate La Plata County until her death in 1974. A member of the National League of American Pen Women, she was also a prolific poet interested in all forms of verse. Mrs. Bryce wrote the “Florida Mesa News” as well as numerous historical columns for the Durango Herald and a number of articles in Volume IV of Pioneers of the San Juan Country. She was an active member of the Daughters of the American Revolution. Arriving By Wagon Brianna McCormick By Robert McDaniel W illiam Valliant cleverly averted disas- with wagons presented distinctly dif- ter on his wagon trip over Stony Pass in ferent problems from traveling on the the late spring of 1875. In company of prairie, and immigrants to south- three other men with wagons, the party west Colorado almost always had to reached the Continental Divide from traverse a mountain pass like Stony, the Rio Grande side at what they called Cumbres, or Wolf Creek. Grassy Hill around the 10th of June. Wagon travel over flat lands and We crossed on the crust of the mountains in the West, however, snow all right, but had the worst time had certain things in common. The getting off the mountain; it was so wagons were much smaller and steep and rocky that the wagons had lighter than the cumbersome Con- to be snubbed. The big trees along the estoga wagons used in the East, and way were all barked from snubbing oxen were the draft animals of choice. wagons. The rest of the outfit left me Horses, mules and even burros, at Grassy Hill and when I started though, were also commonly used. down I had no one to help me and no Stephen B. Kellogg and Thomas rope to snub with. But I wasn’t to be Pollock brought the first wagons into outdone; I hitched one yoke of oxen the San Juan region as part of the to the tongue and three behind; then I “Baker Expedition” in 1861. Kellogg got into the wagon and went down the had grubstaked Charles Baker’s pros- hill and I beat the rest into Howards- pecting party to the headwaters of the Edna Nephew Bryce photographed not long after her arrival in La Plata County, ville by half a day. Animas River the previous summer, as she began her teaching career. Photo courtesy Animas Museum Photo Archives Negotiating steep mountain passes and Pollock hoped to capitalize on

A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 10 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX Settlers Arrive the mercantile possibilities inherent in The Kellogg-Pollock party turned north Few who made the trip by wagon slope of the mountain by following a trail. such an undertaking. from the Old Spanish Trail somewhere into the San Juan country ever forgot it. Often, three men would have to ride on Pollock’s entourage included 11 sturdy near the Florida River, probably cross- Frances Keegan Heffernan recalled her the upper outside of the wagon as they army wagons, with either six or eight ing into the Animas River drainage via family’s trip to Durango by stagecoach were rounding a hill to keep the wagon yoke of oxen to each wagon. His stock – Spring Creek near present day Florida in January 1881: from turning over. consisting of flour, bacon, coffee, sugar Road. Their destination was the first and other staples, as well as tools and Animas City, just south of Baker’s To my people, unaccustomed to Martha A. Roberts on leaving the other basic supplies – was estimated at Bridge. Since there was no currency mountain driving, it must have been Animas Valley in December 1880 after $50,000. He also drove about 200 head of and little gold in the settlement, Pollock a terrifying ordeal, especially that last losing her husband during an eventful beef cattle. His wife, Sarah, traveled in a was unable to sell his goods and lost his day when the stage had tipped over, the five-year stay at Hermosa: spring wagon, and there were some util- investment. Nevertheless, he likely saved passengers all spilling out into the deep ity wagons with tents and camping gear, many of the Baker Expedition partici- snow. Fortunately, no one was hurt. My In the course of our journey the next all drawn by mule teams. pants from starvation before the area was father threw me out into a snow bank day [from their campsite on the Piedra Leaving Denver in mid-December abandoned by the summer of 1861. and my tiny sister after me so that we River] a dangerous incident occurred; 1860, the wagon train made its way to After the Brunot Agreement with the might be clear of the falling stagecoach after ascending a steep hill, we were about Abiquiu, then followed portions of the Utes opened much of southwest Colo- and the frightened horses. to descend the other side when we discov- Old Spanish Trail into present day south- rado to non-Indian settlement in 1874, ered that one side of the road was covered west Colorado. A crude roadway had to large numbers of settlers immigrated. Mamie Hight Greenough on her with snow and the other with ice. The be built most of the way to accommodate Initially, nearly everything needed family’s trip over the “Conejos Range” on men in the first wagon tried the snow and the heavy wagons. Fording the tributar- for mining, homesteading and town their way to Hermosa in 1877: descended safely; the second wagon then ies of the San Juan River and climbing development was brought in by wagons, followed the first. Mr. Day instructed my and descending the hills, all during the including sawmills, mining machinery When we could get our wagons to the driver to follow the tracks of the first, but, winter, presented plenty of challenges. and even pianos. summit, we started down the western instead of obeying his order, he turned on to the ice. We did not have time to think, the horses’ feet went from under them and we went down the hill as if shot from a cannon’s mouth. The four men ran to the heads and sides of the horses and held them close to the bank. We were forced to delay an hour to quiet them.

Once the railroad reached Durango in 1881, transportation of people, goods and ores to and from the region became safer and much more efficient. Wagons, however, continued in use for several de- cades. Durango even had its own resident wagon maker – pioneer blacksmith Harry Jackson. His shop made wooden-axle wagons, spring wagons, buggies and other conveyances until he “quit the business” sometime after World War I. Ironically, as one of La Plata County’s first automobile owners, Jackson himself symbolized the end of the horse and buggy era.

Robert McDaniel is a fourth-generation native of southwest Colorado and is descended from miners, cowboys, farmers and a water attorney. The wagon shop on the east side of the 1100 block of today’s Main Avenue in Durango ca. 1882. In addition to offering wagon repairs, the establishment also offered horseshoeing for the convenience of wagon travelers. Photo courtesy Animas Museum Photo Archives.

A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 11 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX Settlers Arrive The Mormon Settlement of Redmesa By Cassie Cordell Walters E lmer Franklin Taylor a young operation in 1932. He ran it for several church called in an engineer. Many Cassie Cordell Walters is a 4th genera- Mormon man of seventeen was rid- years. When Lloyd moved his family to years of hard work completed the dam tion La Plata County girl that loves his- ing horseback through Hesperus on Kirtland, other family members took and reservoir, which is still in use today. tory. She lives in La Plata NM with her his way to Fruitland, NM to visit his over. The business stayed in opera- Life became a little easier when husband and 3 children. mother. Over the years he would often tion changing hands with other family electricity was brought to the area in make this trip and pass by a deep, members through the years until 2001 1946. The early pioneers of La Plata bone-dry arroyo in the middle of the when the family decided to dissolve County left behind a legacy that is desert. Who would have thought that the Long Hollow Company. Today the still evident today in the roads, farms, in approximately thirty-five years he mill is only a skeleton of what it used buildings and reservoirs would build a successful flour mill to be. A new dam is currently being built by these people. This there powered by water! constructed just east of the old mill to large combined Mormon Congress passed an act on May 17, store water for delivery to New Mexico and non-Mormon com- 1900 to provide free homesteading in to meet a water compact agreement. munity is a loving and the eastern portion of the Southern Hiram Martin Taylor, Elmer’s helpful one where every- Ute Reservation to qualifying families. brother, originally moved his family one takes care of one an- Pioneering families (many of them to Mancos, CO, where he helped build other. It is easy to see why Mormon) started moving into La Plata the Mormon Trail. This was a steep pioneers worked so hard County. Land was being cleared on wagon road that led out of the canyon to live here and why so Fort Lewis Mesa north of Redmesa. south of Mancos connecting with the many of their descendants Water was being diverted from the La Dryside of La Plata County. It was used still live here today with Plata River to provide irrigation. As a by many of the early settlers for travel the La Plata Mountains as result water started to flow south into to and from Mancos. In 1906 Hiram a beautiful backdrop. The flour mill by Long Hollow Creek, south of Redmesa in 2011. the dry arroyo. The arroyo eventu- was called by his church leaders to help Photo courtesy of The Durango Herald ally had a steady stream and became settle the community of Redmesa. He known as Long Hollow Creek. became the first Bishop of the Redmesa The idea was now planted in Elmer’s Ward of the LDS Church which was mind to build a water powered mill. By organized in 1908. He also ran a store 1922 Long Hollow Mill was under way. in Redmesa. Hiram left the area a few The land he needed to build his mill on years later. His son Leo was called as was still part of the Indian reservation. the second Bishop in 1912 when he He purchased land in Bayfield, CO, and was only nineteen years old. When Leo Voted Durango’s the Indians readily traded him land for was Bishop construction began on the Free “Favorite Mexican Food & Margaritas” land. He obtained water rights; now all Redmesa Dam (Mormon Reservoir) on Parking that was left was to build the mill. He Hay Gulch stream. James Slade was an 431 East 2nd Avenue • Durango 259-9494 received milling equipment from an advisor, first to Hiram, then to Leo. At Traditional Northern New Mexico Cooking older mill in Kirtland, NM. The brick the time they didn’t have an engineer so for the building was made on-site out James took the job as one of the direc- of adobe that was fired in a homemade tors of construction. In 1911 a terrible kiln. A water turbine was installed. By thunderstorm hit the area causing a 1924, Long Hollow Mill Company, a flood that destroyed the dam. James water-powered mill in the middle of the remembered, “It was night time, Mother Est. 1972 desert was complete and in operation. and I were walking the floor in anxiety In its prime the mill produced forty when the dreadful thing happened. There barrels per day (barrel = 196 lbs) of was a terrible pounding, then an even 147 E. College Dr flour and grain. The family owned mill more terrible rushing of mighty waters Durango Yum! had a hard time getting enough wheat down the river only a short distance 970-247-5707 to run the mill; people from the sur- from our home. I stood aghast, all color rounding area traded wheat for flour. drained from my face. It has gone!” For Lloyd, one of Elmer’s sons, took over the reconstruction of the reservoir the www.OreHouseRestaurant.comSteak A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 12 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX Accelerated Mobility & Tourism Motoring Memories By Jill Seyfarth By the time Roy Hall (who is prob- highway construction projects. Using ably the ill-fated “Roy” in the poem) about $100,000 of the new funds, brought a one or two cylinder driving Colorado went straight to work, machine to La Plata County, local opening Wolf Creek Pass to automo- promoters were already advocating biles on August 21, 1916. The treach- for automobile roads. In 1902, a Mr. erous one-lane gravel road ranged Roehrig came to Durango to raise from 12 to 16 feet wide with turnouts support for a Durango to Farmington for passing vehicles. The steep grade “automobile line”. He told the Du- could wreak havoc on automobiles rango Wage Earner that he thought with only partially filled gravity-flow there would certainly be a demand gas tanks, causing an occasional for a road to Trimble Hot Springs driver to drive backwards up portions and another “line” up the Pine River of the road. The road over Red Moun- Valley. T.D. Burns, owner of Trimble tain Pass was improved in the early Hot Springs, also promoted the route, 1920s, offering a route to motor into offering $300 towards constructing it. La Plata County from the north. A Durango mechanical/machinery/ Local roads did not see much Buick “Silver Anniversary” sedan belonging to Rich Gifford makes its way through snow electrical business, called the Du- improvement until the Great De- near Hesperus ca. 1929. Photo courtesy Animas Museum Photo Archives. rango Novelty Works, began to stock pression, when federal construc- Roy had a motor car, no wonder that the cyclists joined cars for sale and offered a ride service tion programs provided funding for Propelled by gasoline. with over 300 bicycle companies to Trimble Hot Springs for $1. regrading and oiling some of the And everywhere that Roy went, in the United States to establish a The State of Colorado quickly county roads in the 1930s and early He rode in the machine. national “Good Roads” movement in realized the need for passable roads. 1940s. Federal projects also built The motor struck a stone one day, the early 1900s. In 1909 Governor John Shafroth ap- and improved roads for Vallecito And from its course deflected. La Plata County travelers knew pointed a three-person State Highway Dam, for the transport of radioactive Doctor says that Roy is all about the need for better roads. Commission, including Durango materials for nuclear development As well as be expected. Many a La Plata County farmer resident Thomas Tulley, to plan a during and after World War II, and (Durango Democrat, 1905) travelled into town in the early morn- statewide road system. later on for Navajo Dam. ing while the ground was frozen Some entities resisted the signs of With almost 200 miles of paved N egotiating the roads of La Plata just to avoid the mud. Particularly sweeping change. “NO! NEVER!” roads and about 500 miles of gravel County could be a dangerous busi- heinous local routes earned descrip- proclaimed a headline in a 1910 roads, La Plata County road con- ness. Calamities filled the pages of tive nicknames, like the Washboard Durango Wage Earner. “Autos are ditions are much improved from the local newspapers. One April 1902, Road, which connected western La owned by rich men, wagons by poor the early days. Drivers no longer edition of the Durango Wage Earner Plata County and Durango. Pio- men. If the autoists want a road to negotiate the deeply rutted muddy reported, “While bicycling Tuesday neering motorists were a pragmatic joy-ride on let them build it….Surely routes of long ago, but it’s a sure bet morning, District Attorney Johnson bunch, combining motor and animal our present board of county com- that more than a few motorists can was thrown from his wheel near the power when necessary. Florida Mesa missioners will not put six thousand invoke the tale of Roy with his early Junction Creek Bridge.” Mr. John- mailman W.B. Morrison braved the dollars of the people’s money into motor car as they weave through son dislocated his shoulder. In the elements in his “mud crawler”, a such a sink hole.” The Wage Earner’s the autos and bicycles that make up same paper we learn of the serious car chassis with big wooden wagon pleas were in vain. In 1913, Colorado local traffic today. injuries to Mrs. Elizabeth Hub when wheels that slogged through the passed laws to license and register she was “thrown from a street car” in muddy roads to deliver the mail. In automobiles, and in 1919 Colorado Jill Seyfarth is a professional archae- North Durango and cut her head and the winter when the snowdrifts were became one of the first four states to ologist and historian and a long-time injured her right side. too deep for the crawler, Morrison levy a one cent per gallon gasoline resident of Animas City. By 1900, over one million bicycle used mules to pull a little house built tax to fund road construction. riders dodged wagons, street cars on runners with a coal stove inside to The Federal Highway Act of 1916 and horses on America’s roads. It is keep the driver from freezing. provided matching funds for state A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 13 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX Accelerated Mobility & Tourism In Their Merry Oldsmobiles By Carolyn Bowra T oday tourists from Denver arrive after securing their government per- daily by car for vacations in La Plata mits to enter the park. The autos were County. In 1917 it was newsworthy. “tuned and timed” as they set out The Durango Semi Weekly Herald for Spruce Tree House. It was noted of September 10, 1917 covered the that it was “the most wonderful drive event. More than a dozen Oldsmobile which cannot be surpassed on this owners set out on Saturday, September continent or even the mountains of 1 to visit Mesa Verde. They reached the Alps.” The motorists were favor- Cañon City the first night. The next ably impressed with the government- day they crossed Poncha Pass and the built road leading from the highway San Luis Valley, stopping for the night to the ruins, and the view it offered of in Del Norte. On Monday they took Sleeping Ute Mountain and Shiprock. the new road over Wolf Creek Pass They arrived at Spruce Tree House in and paused to rest for an hour. Word one hour and 45 minutes. reached Durango by phone that they After supper the group enjoyed a were on the way. Members of the Du- bonfire, and then spent the night in rango Exchange, which later became the ruins. Awakened by the breakfast the Chamber of Commerce, the press bell, the group explored the ruins, and others gathered a group to meet pausing for refreshment at a natu- the Oldsmobiles east of Durango and ral spring. Many of the group were escort them into town. exhausted by the strenuous hiking The group took advantage of as they visited several of the Cliff Durango’s position as the gateway to Dwellings. Fortunately the group was Mesa Verde to prepare for their trip to revived by lunch and then motored to the park. The Durango Weekly Herald the Cliff Palace and then to Balcony noted, “On Tuesday morning the San House. Since the exploration of Bal- Juan sun arose as usual in all his glory. cony House involved ladders, some The wonder seekers gathered them- in the group “fell by the wayside” but selves together, refilled their gasoline those who made the descent declared tanks and supplied themselves with it the most interesting of all the sites. other necessaries of the auto tourists After supper the younger members and by the hour of 10 a.m. had lined of the group enjoyed dancing at the up along lower Main Avenue, ready pavilion. In spite of agreeing that the for the prospective trip.” They decided breakfast bell would ring at 6 in the it would be helpful to have a local morning, it was nearly mid-morning motorist along, as well as a reporter. A before the group was ready to depart. Oldsmobile advertisements such as this pointed out the comforts of the French leather upholstery and writer from the Herald and Jim Jarvis The group arrived in Durango at leg room for passengers. With the powerful 58 horsepower engine and 14-17 miles per gallon it would joined the group. Also accompany- 3:30 and after purchasing supplies de- be just the thing for touring Colorado. ing the party was a serviceman from parted for Trimble Springs. There was Trimble for the rest of the party to forts to get the autos to Silverton and the Fisk Tire Company and one from time for a dip in the springs before board for the trip north. At Silverton the group itself earned the gratitude of Oldsmobile. The group was pro- dinner, after which the group “re- they prepared to drive to Ouray, where the newspaper writer. As many have claimed to be the first automobile club paired to the dance hall” where they they planned to spend the night. said of their travels to southwest Colo- to visit the park and it was noted that danced until nearly midnight. The Herald concluded that the rado, “The trip will be long remem- there was no jollier party. The group headed to Silverton Oldsmobile Club run was “one of the bered.” “Adios, Oldsmobilists”. The caravan made excellent time, the next day. Since there was not yet best advertising events in the history covering the 30 miles to Mancos in an auto road to take them, the driv- of the San Juan and was a great adver- Carolyn Bowra is the Director of the less than two hours. They enjoyed ers motored to Durango and loaded tiser for the Oldsmobile car for which Animas Museum and a seasoned motorist. the scenery and were so fond of Man- the Oldsmobiles onto the train for Jas. J. Jarvis is the San Juan agent.” The cos they elected to have lunch there, shipment. The train stopped at railroad was also praised for their ef-

A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 14 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX Accelerated Mobility & Tourism Dealing for a Dodge: Early Durango Dealerships By Jill Seyfarth I n the fall of 1903, Durango hardware novelties owned only by the wealthy. A other fairly new technology-electricity. has the exposed roof trusses that were and wagon dealer Harry Jackson bought 1904 Jeffery Auto Rambler, for instance In 1908, the Durango Novelty Works part of the auto garage. a Model XIV Winton automobile. “What sold for $1,200 to $1,350. Headlights advertised that they could fix anything Durango was well on its way to a beauty it was, red with solid brass cost extra. Tires for Harry Jackson’s at their 1130 Main location (now the becoming a car town. In the 1930s, auto- trim,” he would later recall about the Winton cost $80 apiece. offices of Korn Ferry). mobile dealerships, garages and service first of his many Winton purchases. “It This new contraption introduced In 1911, Ben Hocker and his son, Jess, stations lined the streets. By 1952, at cost me $2,500 and about that much to some new terminology. It was called bought the Novelty Works from Orville least nine dealerships competed for the keep it running. …All in all I could have an automobile, or a motor car, and was Chapman. Within four years, the Hockers drivers’ dollars along Main and East 2nd purchased several good ranches for the often referred to as “the machine”; new had relocated to 125 West 8th Street. One Avenues. Here is a list of them - see if money I spent on Winton cars.” auto-worthy roads were referred to as of their old garage door openings now has you can find them today: Jackson- a prosperous local mer- automobile “lines”. In La Plata County a nice awning and provides the entrance • Graden Weinland at 651 Main sold chant- started a car craze among the an early (possibly the earliest) auto to the current establishment (Pongas); Dodges and Plymouths more prominent citizens of La Plata dealership was fittingly named the Du- the outline and headers from two other • Drum and Proctor at 1315 Main were County. Before Henry Ford came out rango Novelty Works. The company also garage doors can still be seen in the stone Chrysler-Plymouth dealers with the Model T in 1908, cars were provided expertise in machinery and an- wall. The Hockers sold Jeffery and Saxon • Southwestern Motor Company at 1910 cars from this shop. With a price of $395 Main for the 1913 model, Saxons were a more • Durango Motor Company at 160 East affordable option, although you had to 6th Street (they might have only sold pay extra for headlights. By 1915, the Sax- auto parts) ons sold for $785 with electric starters and • La Plata Motors at 600 East 2nd Avenue headlights as standard equipment. (E.D. Arndt, proprietor) The Hockers had one other early • TCT Motor Sales of Oldsmobiles and competitor in the car business. L.L. GMC Trucks at 679 East 2nd Avenue Conover opened the Durango Motor • Locke-Nash Motor Company at 801 Car Company by 1911, followed by J.W. East 2nd Avenue Jarvis who expanded his Eagle Livery • Hocker Chevrolet at 802 East 2nd and Stable into the Jarvis Garage at 702 Avenue 2nd Avenue. The Hockers added a taxi • Miller Motor Company at 990 East 2nd service in the 1920s with three cars- a Avenue (burned down and now home Nash Rambler, an Overland and a Jef- to the Durango Police Department) Henry Jackson and his model XIV 1903 Winton 4 cylinder touring car on Florida Mesa ca. 1904. fery. The taxi was mostly used by doctors Photo courtesy Animas Museum Photo Archives. on house calls. In 1929, Hocker Motors Jill Seyfarth is a professional archaeologist opened a fancy new showroom on East and historian and a long time resident of 2nd Avenue. Today the building is the Animas City. home of the Durango Arts Center. The theater in the back half of the building

Durango Novelty Works in the 100 block of East 8th Street, in 1912. In addition to selling “machines” the company offered expertise in electricity. Photo courtesy Animas Museum Photo Archives.

A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 15 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX Accelerated Mobility & Tourism One Hundred Years... Flying Sky High By Orianna Keating I n 1903 when the Wright brothers was started. A tiny company named performed the first successful flight, an Monarch Airlines led the way for exciting time in history took off. The commercially viable Denver/Durango appeal of airplanes spread quickly. A passenger flights. Due to occasion- mere ten years later this newest form of ally choppy conditions the flights were travel came to Durango. In 1913 the La known informally as the “Vomit Com- Plata County Fair hosted the first flight et.” Priced at $18.46, a traveler could over Durango. As the newspaper of the now reach Denver in a single afternoon, day observed; “As this will be the first even though the plane stopped in chance and probably the only chance for Alamosa, Pueblo, and Colorado Springs a long time to come for the vast major- on the way. Now Durango companies ity of people in southwestern Colorado could conduct business in Denver and and northern New Mexico to see the be back within 24 hours. most wonderful invention of the age, More frequently, everyday people in practical operation, it is confidently wanted to use the airlines. In 1950 expected by the fair directors that the the airport was moved to its current A World War I era aircraft at the fairgrounds ca. 1918. attendance this year will be double what location off of Highway 172, southeast Photo courtesy Animas Museum Photo Archives. it has been in any previous year.” The of Durango, in order to accommodate fairgrounds, on north Main, became the the higher volume of traffic with bigger A Visitor Out of the Blue local airport, until townspeople became planes and more of them. By the late uncomfortable with planes taking off 1980s, over 85,000 passengers traveled The morning of Sunday, July 28, 1935 began as any other in Durango, Colorado. The and landing in town. to Durango by airplane for work and locals attended church services, and the offices of the Durango Herald-Democrat were In 1929, the airport moved to Res- play. This business model remained in closed, as they had been every Sunday since the newspaper’s inception. However, at ervoir Hill, where Fort Lewis College is place until 2008 when Frontier airlines four o’clock the events of the day took a dramatic turn, as the secretary of the Chamber today. The local newspaper noted that returned to Durango bringing lower of Commerce answered a call from world famous pilot Wiley Post. Durango was not on the national “air airfares that allowed people who usu- Post and his passenger Will Rogers, it seemed, were on an aerial tour of the West. map.” The new airport would connect ally drove their own cars from Denver Having recently spent time in Albuquerque, the two were returning west from Salida and Durango to many other places and was and Albuquerque to Durango, to hop sought Durango as a destination for replenishment of both their plane and themselves. an exciting prospect to locals; “The only on a plane instead. Prices now ranged Although his visit was unexpected, word of Roger’s arrival spread quickly, and by the time draw-back Durango and the great San from about two to six hundred dollars, Post and Rogers landed at six o’clock, a Juan Basin has ever had is transporta- making air travel a reasonable alterna- crowd had gathered on Main Avenue and tion. Due to its location the basin is tive to automotive travel. inside the lobby of the Strater Hotel. The shut off from the rest of the world by From a novelty show, to air mail and Durango Herald-Democrat reported that natural barriers... With the perfection the “Vomit Comet”, to visitors purchas- inside the Strater, “both men, especially of the airplane and the establishment of ing inexpensive tickets; flight has been Rogers were besieged for autographs.” a municipal airfield in this city, a new important to Durango for a hundred After this 1935 visit, Rogers and day is dawning for Durango and the years. It connects Durango to bigger cit- Post would never again return. Only 18 San Juan Basin and it will be a matter of ies and allows people to easily visit our days after the two men left Durango, only a very short time until the drone of special small town in the mountains. both were killed when their small plane motors of commercial airplanes coming crashed on August 15 near Point Bar- and going from the local airport will be Orianna Keating is a 2013 graduate row, Alaska en route to Moscow, Russia. as commonplace as the movement of of Fort Lewis College, with a degree in The July visit of Post and Rogers how- trains and tracks is today.” history. She has been an intern at the ever, is forever remembered in Rogers’s Even though planes took passengers Animas Museum. evaluation of Durango, “A beautiful little from Durango to Denver as early as the city, out of the way and glad of it”. Will Rogers and Mrs. Wiley Post board their plane 1920s and 30s, it was not until 1946 that Evan West in Durango, August 1935. Photo courtesy Animas a regularly scheduled flight to Denver Museum Photo Archives.

A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 16 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX Destination: La Plata County- Attractions at Journey’s End Teelawuket - A Summer Home By Ruth Lambert T eelawuket is a mysterious word land was originally homesteaded in 1895. He installed a bell tuned to can (Wife’s Vacation) Plan”. The that means “Summer Home” in as the Graham Park Homestead in b-flat to call guests to meals and he brochure proclaimed the ranch Ute. The name conjures up images 1886 by brothers Charles C. and ran 2,000 Herefords on the prop- “Little Switzerland” with adventures of imposing mountains, sparkling wa- Joseph H. Graham. The Grahams erty. He also built the barn, several for the entire family such as high ters and tall fragrant pines. Over the came to Colorado with their father cabins, the cookhouse and gather- country horseback rides and fish- years the area has been the summer from Indiana in 1879. Their origi- ing room. All of this, as well as ing. The guest ranch changed hands home to many travelers, fist the Utes nal homestead cabin is still stand- barns, tool house, sheds and the hot in the following years until it was visiting their beloved high country, ing. In 1894, they sold out to “Coal and cold running water impressed a sold to the Graham family (no rela- later tourists on hunting adventures, Oil” John(ny) Kirkpatrick , and party of visitors in 1905. tion to the original homesteading then young boys and more recently Charles moved on to other ven- In 1917, Pete Scott, a sheep man Graham), who had been frequent families experiencing the beauty of tures, including the fish hatcheries from Aztec, New Mexico, bought visitors to the guest ranch. La Plata County. It is no wonder that at nearby Emerald Lake, another the ranch. He raised sheep and Today, the Grahams continue many people journeyed to our area hatchery in the Animas Valley and cattle, hosted paying guests and in to own and preserve the ranch as with such an exotic destination as later a hatchery at Electra Lake. an agreement with H.C. Pollock, a family retreat. The early 1886 Teelawuket. Kirkpatrick, who had made a developed a boys’ camp on the homestead, numerous cabins, the The place we now know as fortune in the oil business, loved to property. Pollock and other inves- main house, large cookhouse and Teelawuket is northeast of Vallecito entertain, and ran in powerful cir- tors purchased the ranch in 1926 living room, tool shed, and barn Lake in a narrow valley trending up cles. He imported Swedish builders and expanded the boys’ camp to still exist. The pastures and field to the Weminuche Wilderness. The to construct the grand main house run “Rancho Mesa Verde”, a boys’ are open and undeveloped. The camp that had two loca- ranch appears almost timeless and tions—at Teelawuket and it is easy to image it as a destina- at a location about 60 tion for many journeys into La miles south near Allison, Plata County. For numerous youth Colorado. Guests would and families, Teelawuket served as arrive in Ignacio on the an introduction to our area that train and be transported sparked return visits, and for many, to the remote ranch in a later permanent home. wagons or on horseback and in later years, guests Ruth E. Lambert is the Cultural came by car. The ranch Program Director for the San Juan continued as a guest Mountains Association. Jill Seyfarth ranch in the 1950s and provided the research for this article. early 1960s. Many of the guests left their signa- For additional information see: tures with their home- Warlick, Dottie. Vallecito Country by towns and years visited Dottie Warlick, Montrose, Colorado: on the walls of the old Western Reflections Publishing Com- reception building that pany, 2003. and Pioneers of the San also served as a bar in the Juan Country. Reprint of Volumes I-IV. 1950s and 1960s before Daughters of the American Revolution, it was converted into the Sarah Platt Decker Chapter. Bounti- tool shed. A brochure to ful, Utah: Family History Publishers, promote the Teelawuket 1998. Both are included in the Animas Ranch prominently Museum Research Library. featured the 7TX brand The amenities of Teelawuket are clearly visible in this undated historic image. and advertised that the Photo courtesy Animas Museum Photo Archives. rates were on the “Ameri- A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 17 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX Destination: La Plata County- Attractions at Journey’s End Narrow Gauge Capital of the World By Jeff Johnson I t would be difficult to tell the serving Durango from the east, was would become the famous “Trip to exhibits from across the West. story of travel and tourism in our in the early refrains of its swan song. Yesterday”. However, something In keeping with the theme of the fair community without frequent Waning freight traffic due to improv- was stirring in our community, and event, various railroad companies forays into stories of narrow gauge ing roads and the increased use of also among the local railroaders, as proudly exhibited their vintage and railroading. An interesting tale trucks was finally starting to pro- vacationers began to fill the sparse contemporary examples of roll- lies in an unpredictable chain of vide a rest for the antiquated steam trains in growing numbers for each ing stock and locomotives that had events that led to the existence of engines and old wooden freight year following WW II. The best part contributed to Western expansion. our local treasure, now known as cars. But a little stepchild branch of was the reason they were starting to In 1949, the D&RGW Railroad pre- the Durango and Silverton Narrow the fabled narrow gauge system was frequent the Durango ticket office - sented an exhibit consisting of an Gauge Railroad. With ever increas- beginning to sing a new tune. simply for the purpose of riding be- 1882 narrow gauge locomotive and ing recognition of heritage railroads Mesa Verde had continued to hind an old steam engine in 1880s various pieces of early rolling stock. across our nation, our famous nar- grow in popularity after the Second era varnished coaches. The D&RG Resplendent in Aspen Gold paint row gauge line has a unique history World War, and the new-found originally built the line in 1881 to and punctuated with snappy black of continued growth befitting each American love affair with motor- tap into local mineral resources, pin-striping, old locomotive 268 new era, yet it maintains a quaint- ized travel generally beckoned which were finally playing out. A was an eye-catching number meant ness that harkens to its own rich summertime tourists to venture new commodity, however, was be- to attract the attention of fair-goers heritage, one that was in the making into the “wild west” of southwestern ginning to arrive in droves, one that visiting Chicago from throughout years before most of us became Colorado. In 1949, the twice-weekly would become a centerpiece of our the country. Immediately follow- residents of La Plata County. mixed train (both freight and pas- modern day success. ing the fair, Twentieth Century-Fox By the late 1940s, the nearly senger) from Durango to Silverton The memorable Chicago Rail- came calling to Durango in August 70-year-old Denver and Rio Grande was but a pedestrian and humble road Fair held during the summers and September of the same year, Western (D&RGW) mainline affair when compared to what of 1948 and 1949 featured railroad and the Silverton Branch would HISTORY

It’s about being committed to our community since 1882. We’ve been putting you First for 130 years! Photo courtesy of La Plata County Historical Society Historical LaCounty of Plata courtesy Photo

COMMITTED TO OUR COMMUNITY SINCE 1882 259 West 9th St, Durango · 351 Bayfield Center Dr, Bayfield · Walmart · Albertsons · Bodo Wayland Bruce checks his watch in this image from the early 1950s. The railcars sport the “Aspen Gold” www.fnbdurango.com · 247-3020 - Durango · 884-5300 - Bayfield paint that helped make them famous.Photo courtesy Animas Museum Photo Archives.

A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 18 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX Destination: La Plata County- Attractions at Journey’s End receive an unexpected benefit in Without question, the success a new tradition of service and nar- is hoped that these few paragraphs the coming tourist season. “Ticket of the Silverton train as a tour- row gauge storytelling was born, one may serve as a simple reminder of to Tomahawk” was filmed along ist destination is due in large part that survives to this day. the humble beginnings of our local the Animas River using a 19th to our earlier boosters of La Plata In the 1960s, the D&RGW railroad railroad institution, one that is loved Century steam locomotive with a County, Durango and Silverton, and began to truly rise to the occasion by worldwide. Let us give one more brightly painted complement of cars to those first tourists and rail fans investing in additional railroad equip- round of thanks to a small yet dedi- that glistened for the Technicolor who tirelessly promoted the line ment while acquiring and remodeling cated group of our local forebears cameras. The lighthearted western through grass-roots efforts. Some of properties along lower Main Avenue who shared a vision that bore great romp featured Dan Dailey, Anne the information recounted in this to attract and please the growing fruit and brought about new tradi- Baxter, Walter Brennan and a new article was reported “as it happened” throngs of travelers to our commu- tions. Their legacy will live on, to be (uncredited) actress, Marilyn Mon- by well-known railroad historian nity. The railroad company was finally enjoyed by our future generations. roe. It premiered in Durango’s Kiva Robert W. Richardson. His regular able to divest itself of the antique nar- movie theater on April 16, 1950. updates of noteworthy events on row gauge line in 1981, and another Jeff Johnson arrived in La Plata That spring, many of the nation’s the narrow gauge in the 1950s were wonderful chapter was opened that County in 1981 and began a 22 year moviegoers received an unprec- shared via a mimeographed one continues to this day. The Durango career in railroading that started on edented preview of what awaited pager distributed as “The Narrow and Silverton Narrow Gauge Rail- the Durango and Silverton, currently them in “Colorful Colorado.” Local Gauge News.” It is well-understood road thrives as the centerpiece of our serving as the Project Manager for community members (led in part among the railroad historian com- vibrant community. Blackstone Models. He is a member of by Mrs. Marguerite Clark) quickly munity the apathy that was often Many books are available which the LPCHS Board of Directors. persuaded the railroad to consider displayed from the upper manage- detail the continued growth and adorning a locomotive and smatter- ment of the D&RGW railroad in the history of the Silverton train, but it ing old coaches in the Aspen Gold 1950s concerning the future of the paint similar to the movie colors Silverton line - to wit, the ongoing seen on screens across the coun- attempts by the company to abandon Destination: Recreation try. In addition, the short summer or sell the line even as its popularity By Evan West schedule for the Silverton mixed grew. While the company may have train would be expanded to three possessed their own business reasons I n the late spring of 1890, a County annually for its still abun- days per week commencing on for these actions, the communi- young Swedish archeologist named dant clear mountain air and bounti- June 18th, 1950. Steam locomotive ties of Durango and Silverton were Gustaf Nordenskiold stepped off a ful recreational opportunities. number 473 (of 1923 vintage) was not to be denied their own mani- Denver and Rio Grande Railroad For over a hundred years, tour- adorned with a phony 1880s type of fest destiny of becoming a tourist train in Durango, with the intent ists, residents, and college students diamond-shaped smokestack and mecca. Durango based conductors of spending only a few nights in have arrived in Durango as rapidly a simulated oil burning headlight Alva Lyons, Wayland Bruce, Myron the small city while on his way to as their means of transportation al- shroud, thus ushering in a new era Henry, and others took great pride Japan. In a matter of days, however, lowed. Their reasons for coming are of railroad-themed western enter- in the growth of the tourist sector young Nordenskiold had joined plentiful, but few incentives have tainment that would propel Du- of narrow gauge railroading. When in the excavations at nearby Mesa kept residents living in and tourists rango for decades to come. these aging gentlemen had original- Verde and found temporary relief returning to Durango and La Plata Adding to the growing popu- ly hired on with the railroad, their of his tuberculosis in the clear air of County, as have the endless oppor- larity of Colorado narrow gauge mandate was to safely and efficiently southwest Colorado. Nordenskiold tunities for year-round recreation railroading, movie companies move freight and passengers along soon sent a telegraph to his father that the city and county boast. continued to favor the Durango the railroad. By the early 1950s, to inform him that he would not Only five years after Norden- area throughout the 1950s while they found themselves punching be continuing his travel and that he skiold’s arrival in Durango, the scouting locations for the popular souvenir tickets while donning old needed money for an extended stay Durango Wheel Club established western movie genre. The Silverton frock coats and 19th century styled in Durango. Although Nordenskiold the first organized presence of Branch was on its way. By 1955, the hats, much to the delight of Cold is best remembered today for his bicyclists in the city. Despite the train schedule expanded to seven War era travelers seeking respite in sometimes controversial role in the fact that bicycles were expensive, days a week, and ridership saw a the fantasy of old west railroading. excavations of Mesa Verde, his spirit costing at least $40 for the cheap- steady increase that would continue Walking through the coaches serv- is reflected in the many thousands est models, and riding in dress to rise with each passing year. ing donuts, fresh coffee, and smiles, of tourists who come to La Plata clothes (as was the custom of the A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 19 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX Destination: La Plata County- Attractions at Journey’s End

Proud to be Part of the community since 1921

Town Plaza • Durango

Dolph Kuss and a student skier enjoy in-town skiing on Durango’s Chapman Hill in 1955. 970-247-0660 • www.kroegers.com Photo courtesy Animas Museum Photo Archives. club) was awkward, bicycle culture Today a lift ticket can cost $75 on its namesake hill when weather far from alone. Since the time of survived. Today La Plata County is but avid skiers and snowboard- and snow conditions permit. Gustaf Nordenskiold’s arrival in home to more than 2,000 miles of ers appreciate the resort’s growth Trimble Hot Springs north of 1890, millions of travelers, includ- mountain biking trails, and the Fort from just eight trails and a single Durango, has served as a year round ing Buzz Aldrin, Robert Redford, Lewis College cycling team recently chairlift to over 450 acres, nine destination for tourists, locals, and Jane Fonda, and Gerald Ford, have ranked as number one in the na- chairlifts and 40 trails. even celebrities such as Marilyn visited La Plata County, sharing tion. Cycling however, is not just for West of Durango, the much Monroe since the 1870s.William with local residents its wealth of the competition-minded. Fort Lewis smaller Ski Hesperus opened three Frank Trimble and his wife Rufina recreational opportunities. From students of all backgrounds also ap- years earlier in 1962. Unlike Purga- homesteaded the property in 1874 skiing and hiking, to snowboard- preciate the bicycle and pedestrian tory, Hesperus has opened and closed and built a two-story hotel five ing and bicycling, La Plata County trail leading from campus into the periodically at the mercy of shifting years before the opening of the invites its year-round residents and heart of downtown Durango, allow- ownership and snow conditions. Strater Hotel. Today the elegant visitors to find in themselves Nor- ing students to commute without Long before the Chapman Hill hotels built by Frank Trimble and denskiold’s spirit of adventure. the use of cars. indoor ice rink opened to Durango later, T.D. Burns, no longer exist, Even Purgatory at Durango residents, local resident Charlie but the hot springs and spa contin- Evan West is in his junior year at Fort Mountain Resort, the largest and Raish dug out an artificial pond ue to attract plenty of patrons. Lewis College. He is majoring in his- most popular ski area in La Plata near the fish hatchery and dubbed During a 2012 campaign stop tory, with an interest in the theater. County, can be reached by resi- it “Huck Finn Pond”. In the winter, in Durango, First Lady Michelle dents and tourists without access the frozen pond created La Plata Obama became the latest celebrity to private vehicles, by Durango County’s first public ice skating traveler to make note of La Plata Transit bus service that runs regu- rink. Today the Chapman Hill County’s charm as a destination larly during the winter. At the time facilities provide ice skating in the saying, “This is such a beautiful of its opening in 1965, the price winter and rollerblading in the part of the state, I don’t know if I of a chairlift ticket was only $4.50. summer, as well as in-town skiing want to leave.” Michelle Obama is A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society History La Plata 20 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX

Community Herit age Aw ards

The La Plata County Historical Society will present its annual Community Heritage Awards on Friday, May 24 at the Bar D Chuckwagon. This year the Davin Montoya family and the Durango Elks Lodge, BPOE #507, will be honored for their contributions to the heritage of La Plata County. One of the finest journeys one can take is a drive north on County Road 250 to the Bar D Chuckwagon; where a plate of authentic cowboy cuisine awaits. Gates will open at 5:30 to allow plenty of time to browse in the shops or ride the Bar D train. Folks will want to be in the dining area at 6:00 when the first pie goes on the auction block. There will be spirited bidding for ownership of some of the finest pies ever baked in the country. Dinner will be served promptly at 7:30 followed by the presentation of awards. A special performance by the Bar D Wranglers will cap off the festivities. Tickets are $40 each or you may wish to gather a group and pur- chase a table. Center tables seating 12 are $480; outer tables seating 10 are $400. Proceeds benefit the La Plata County Historical Society and the Animas Museum. Individual and table reservations may be made by calling 970-259-2402, on-line at www.animasmuseum.org. or at the Animas Museum, 3065 W. 2nd Ave. Reserva- tion deadline is Friday, May 17. Special thanks to our sponsors: Southwest Federal Credit Union, R.H. Crossland Foundation and Historical Museum, La Plata Electric Association, Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, First National Bank of Durango and co-sponsor: The Durango Herald.

“Best People On Earth” by Bruce Spining A bit more than a half a century ago, he quickly set me straight.“It stands for and the community as a whole. enhance the happiness of its members; I recall walking with my grandfather the Benevolent and Protective Order of The BPOE organization began with quicken the spirit of American patrio- along Durango’s East 2nd Avenue at Elks.” Having seen live elk, I now imag- the “Jolly Corks” - a name they took tism; cultivate good fellowship; perpetu- the corner of 9th Street. The large brick ined a group of people who went into based on a clever trick with corks that the ate itself as a fraternal organization, and building there, to a boy of five, looked the building to tend to the needs of the first members performed on the uniniti- provide for its government. The Benevo- like an imposing structure that probably four-legged, wild creatures I’d seen in ated to win rounds of drinks. The ‘Corks’ lent and Protective Order of Elks of the housed an important town enterprise. the woods. How did the elk get into the were a group of actors and entertainers United States of America will serve the Hanging at the corner of the building building and what did they do in there? dedicated to having fun and avoiding a people and communities through be- was an equally impressive neon sign For a not-too-bright kid, the whole New York 1867 Excise Tax. At the time, nevolent programs, demonstrating that with the letters “B P O E.” As a bit of a thing had become a tangled mystery. the Excise Law was being strictly en- Elks Care and Elks Share. precocious kid, I asked my granddad, Eventually I learned that the “Elks” forced, and Sunday in New York City was With a new spirit and direction, the “What is BPOE?” With a wry smile he were a lodge group who engaged in both a very dry day. Meeting in Mrs. Giesman’s BPOE now began to help with groups replied, “It stands for the Best People On social and community activities aimed boarding house, this group of revelers such as veterans, scouting, and scholar- Earth.” And to make sure his little joke at improving people’s lives. The Elks would gather to hold social conventions ships - “wherever Charity, Justice and would stick, he also told me that the were much more than a social group or under the inspiring influences of a stock Brotherly Love were needed.” only people who could enter the build- just another community club. They took of beer laid in the night before. Over time 2,870 Lodges were formed ing were special folks who met very high the words “Benevolent” and “Protec- As the membership grew, so did the across America to embrace and extend standards. As a kid who believed every tive” seriously for more than 100 years. vision to become more helpful as com- this mission. In this spirit, the Durango word grandpa said, I took his explana- They have fostered and contributed to munity benefactors. Based on this, The Colorado Lodge # 507 was instituted tion as gospel, and I imagined the kind community-building in ways that extend Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks on June 6, 1899. The first Exalted Ruler of special people who would be allowed far beyond their Second Avenue struc- was chartered in February 1868. of Lodge 507 was Harry Jackson. Other to go into that unique building. ture, touching the lives of countless area Under the new vision, the group key Lodge leaders were: Harry Turner, It wasn’t long until grandpa’s joke got people and groups. They are also active crafted a mission statement to: Incul- as Esteemed Leading Knight; Rod Day, exposed. I told a school friend about preservationists, maintaining their own cate the principles of Charity, Justice, Esteemed Loyal Knight; C.S. Bailey, the ‘best people on earth’ building and, history museum and promoting the idea Brotherly Love and Fidelity; recognize a Esteemed Lecturing Knight; Al Kuebler, since his dad was actually a member, of sustaining the heritage of their group belief in God; promote the welfare and Secretary; Charles Stillwell, Treasurer;

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A.D. Leiner, Esquire; Frank Rivers, Council to provide unemployment relief safety to preschoolers and elementary munity Heritage Award for their role Tiler; Willis Reese, Chaplin and James to 56 area Hispanic families. students. The Elks are staunch support- as a vital part of our community. Gorman, Inner Guard. There were 33 The organization may have attract- ers of various local and national Drug For many in this immediate com- founding members when Lodge 507 got ed a few ‘rowdy’ types. At one point, Awareness programs. Over a long period, munity, the involvement of the Elks its charter. In addition to these Lodge they tried to kick a member out of the these youth-focused safety and health may often seem somewhat low-key and officers, some of the early members Lodge for leaving his wife at the edge programs have made a powerful impact unheralded. Part of that may come from included Alex Berry, Frank Chesbro, of town, then departing for Wyoming in the area. They highlight the Elks’ com- the vision itself, where promoting char- William Wickline, H. Leroy Hall, Willis with another man’s wife! mitment to the “Protective” heritage. ity, justice, and brotherly love is not for Wetter, E.A. Girard, John Kellenberger, For an organization that began as kind • Elk’s community events such as self-aggrandizement. In that sense, the F.W. Stollsteimer, W.A. Sedwick, James of a ‘drinking club’, the new Elks of the Sweetheart Dances, Spaghetti Dinners, Durango Elks have fostered a high level Callery, R.J. Fuqua, and H.D. McBride. late 1890s and early 1900s had evolved Meatloaf Cook-offs, St. Patrick’s Day of organizational humility - keeping In the early 1900s, members met in surprising ways. That evolution was Dinners, Fourth of July and Flag Day the focus on the activity instead of the at Redman Hall, (today’s Red Snap- reflected in the Durango Lodge as the events, participation in the Veterans’ Day organization. Lodge 507 has made a sus- per building). By 1925 the organiza- group maintained a bit of the ‘Corks’ Parade, and the Annual Charity Balls tained impact on our quality of life and tion had grown sufficiently to build traditions while quietly engaging in raise money for their mission and bring our area’s heritage. It may not be pos- their own lodge at the corner of East great heritage-building activities. Just to people together. They have also become a sible to say that members of Durango 2nd Avenue and 9th Street. At that highlight some of those (almost) invisible part of the fabric of the community and Lodge 507 are among the ‘Best People time, the Lodge was one of the most community resource-building traditions: our shared and ongoing living heritage. On Earth.’ But we do know the quality prominent and imposing structures in • The Elk’s Picnic Grounds along the For the Durango Lodge 507 and and values which they have fostered in Durango’s emerging downtown. Florida River just northeast of Durango the Elks organization, the transforma- our community since 1899 will continue Among early Elk Lodge member were built and improved collaboratively tion into a ‘benevolent and protective’ for generations to come. The Durango names are echoes of community and with a local area Boy Scout troop. Al- order remains central. In keeping BPOE Lodge has earned the Commu- business leaders associated with places most any community group or business with their founding traditions, the nity Heritage Award for their role as a like Parson’s Drug Store, Graden Mer- can arrange to use this picnicking place Elks have a vibrant social life. But no vital part of our community. cantile, First National Bank, Jackson for an event, and a picnic at the “Elk’s” purely ‘for-fun’ group could keep go- Hardware, Durango Democrat news- has long been a local tradition. ing for so long if their driving ideals Bruce Spinning is descended from paper, Trimble Springs, Brennan Oil • In keeping with their own traditions as did not extend beyond enjoyment. Florida Mesa pioneers. He is a member Company, Goodman Paint Company, a ‘fun-loving’ group, many locals have The ability of such a group to make of the La Plata County Historical Society the Turner Securities bank, and even a competed in Elk’s-sponsored athletic this vision real in any local area comes Board of Directors. city park. For Lodge 507, the member- competitions. Annual sports events down to the people who have elected ship included many who undoubtedly include an Elks Golf Tournament and to become involved. The Durango joined the Lodge for its role as a public a yearly Hoops Shoot event for boys BPOE Lodge 507 has earned the Com- benefactor as well as for the socializing. and girls. The Elks also host an annual From the earliest days the lodge aided Soccer Shoot contest and an ongoing the community. In April of 1914 they Junior Golf project. These sports events raised money for flood relief in Tellu- also double as fund-raisers for other ride. In 1917 they sold potatoes to raise community-based projects. money for charity. The Lodge challenged • The heritage of “Benevolence” stands the American Legion to a baseball game as a tangible way that our Elks invest in 1920, with proceeds going to fund the in the area’s future while acknowledg- Cascade Boys and Girls Club - rais- ing past excellence in the students and ing some $118.45. Later, in 1931, the area schools. Durango Elks traditionally Elk’s Charity Ball raised $250 for needy provide scholarships for multiple local children in La Plata County. Unfortu- students headed to college. Most years this nately, this money was stolen, but the scholarship support exceeds $5,000, and Lodge members pitched in and col- is often closer to $10,000. Last year, the lected it again. Post-World War I, Lodge Durango Elks provided some $8,000 in 507 worked with the Red Cross and scholarships. These scholarships are given veterans groups, and at one time there throughout the region and include schools was an “Elk’s Room” in the old Mercy and students from across La Plata County. Hospital. During the Great Depression, • Beyond the fun programs, our local the Durango Elks were the only area fra- Elks contribute to and help conduct the The special “Elk Edition” of the Durango Evening Herald celebrated the grand opening of the Elk’s build- ternal organization on the Community area’s Safety Town program, teaching ing on Friday, July 30, 1926. Animas Museum, Pingrey Collection.

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Generations of Commitment, Persistence and Survival By Marilee Jantzer-White A s stewards of their land Davin and lands of Davin’s grandfather Jose Belar- water tools. Despite the different paths Montoya focused on promoting and pro- Theresa Montoya share with their ances- mino were, however, not recipients of the taken by each, Mike notes that “nothing ducing educational programs to increase tors a sense of belonging to a place, culture land grants system. can replace the skills, knowledge and work public awareness about issues surrounding and history handed down through several In the American southwest the ethic obtained from our parents”. food production. His driving goal while generations of northern New Mexico and Montoya name can be traced back to The Montoya’s cow/calf operation con- on the La Plata Cattlemen’s Association southwestern Colorado ranchers. Follow- 1678, and beyond that to Mexico and the tinually endeavors to improve their line and County Farm Bureau was to unite the ing nature’s cycles and the grazing needs of Spanish born Don Hernan Cortez who, through genetic selection as do many such agricultural producers in our region. their cattle, the Montoyas rotate their herd in 1510, married Emperatriz Tenocha operations today. Technological advances Serving regional irrigation needs are between homeland pastures in Hesperus, Dona Ysabe Moctezuma, the daughter have also resulted in fences run by solar central to Montoya family goals. Davin’s Hay Gulch (west of Breen) and La Plata, of the Aztec emperor Moctezuma II. The power and wireless cameras for monitor- father Chano worked throughout his life New Mexico. The Montoyas can lay claim Montoya’s European lineage reaches back ing their cattle. Although cattle numbers to promote the building of the Animas- to a long ranching presence in this region to Fernando IV, king of Castille in Spain. across the country today are comparable La Plata Project. An integral part of the dating back to the family sheep ranch Moving forward in time, Davin’s great- to those of the 1950s, contemporary cattle original concept was an irrigation water started by Davin’s grandfather Jose Belar- grandfather, Juan N. Jaquez, was a territo- yield more weight. Yet adhering to an component to alleviate water needs along mino. Yet the family’s sheep legacy would, rial delegate to the House of Representa- environmentally conscious and sustain- the La Plata River. Reality collided with by 1978, yield to cattle ranching due to tives prior to New Mexico’s statehood. able cow/calf operation requires a capital expectations. Now on the La Plata Water sheep losses inflicted by predators. Theresa Montoya has roots in the investment to make it work. The Mon- Conservancy District’s Board, Davin is Colorado’s sheep and cattle are part of upper reaches of Cherry Creek. Centen- toyas operated an excavation business working with the Long Hollow Reser- the legacy of the Spaniard Juan de Onate nial Farm, now a historical landmark and for 30 years to fund their cattle business voir Dam project, a construction project who, in 1598, left Santa Barbara, Mexico where she was raised, has been a family and purchase adequate acreage to prevent scheduled for completion in January 2014. for northern New Mexico with 700 cattle property since 1886. Theresa oversees overgrazing. This pay as you go philoso- Water from springs which feeds creeks and 5,000 sheep. While early cattle ranch- the financial records for the Montoya phy yields ranches of much more modest in Long Hollow and Marvel, below Red ing in New Mexico never achieved the business, balancing bookkeeping with her means. One common downside is tracts Mesa, will be held in a combined natu- success that it did in Colorado, possibly skills as mechanic, excavator and welder. too small to divide among upcoming gen- ral entrapment/reservoir dam project due to its blockage by priests in puebloan Davin and Theresa have four sons, Mi- erations who might wish to sustain and now under construction. Seeded by $15 agricultural areas, by 1869 Colorado chael, Ted, Cody and Jesse. Each has pur- continue a similar ranching way of life. million in funding set aside by Colorado could boast as many as one million head. sued careers far removed from ranching Small scale family ranchers, such as the Water Resources and Power Development One southwestern exception was in New with the exception of Jesse who augments Montoyas, diligently avoid past overgraz- Authority and $3 million from the Ute Mexico’s Chama Valley where the Piedra ranching with a welding business. Ted, the ing practices. This overgrazing led to the Mountain Ute tribe, the water will help Lumbre/Polvadera grant was awarded, its eldest of the four brothers, is an engineer decimation of vast expanses of the West alleviate water shortages for Colorado range used in the 1740’s by a branch of currently working on the Panama Canal. by 1900, ultimately contributing to the irrigators whose water needs can’t be met the Montoya family, and the only profit- Mike is in law enforcement in Washington Dust Bowl of the 1930s. Yet they note that, due, in part, to New Mexico’s rights to La able large cattle operation in northern D.C., and Cody works for Stone Age, a concomitant with our increasing value Plata River water. New Mexico. The sheep and cattle ranch company which develops high pressure of land, an equivalent start-up enterprise For their efforts as advocates for La with its undependable income would be County Plata County’s agricultural and almost impossible today. ranching community, their goals to The Montoyas are strongly commit- promote and protect sustainable water ted to resolving community issues that and ranching practices and their desire to confront regional land owners. As a board preserve distinctive features of our La Plata member of LPEA for 22 years Davin County, the La Plata County Historical worked to influence rules regarding power Society has selected the Montoya family for line intrusions through private property. its annual Community Heritage Award. He also served on the board of Wesodi, Western Energy Services of Durango, a Marilee Jantzer-White is an art histo- subsidiary of LPEA. In addition Davin rian and an emeritus professor at Fort managed Fast Track, a fiber optics commu- Lewis College. nications company dedicated to provid- ing reliable high speed data transport to The Montoya family pictured in 2010 at their Hesperus ranch. Back row: (left to right) Ted, Erika, western Colorado. During multiple terms Mike, Cody, Jesse, Kerri. Center: Theresa, Davin. Front: Rhiley and Quincy as president of the Cattlemen’s Association,

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Walking Durango: History, Sights, and Stories Upcoming Events There is always something happening at the Animas Museum! A Journey to the Past V ery soon, you’ll be able to take a trip through Durango’s past, while Saturday, May 18, Family Day - Drop Saturday, September 7 - Animas City guided tour of Durango’s Historic Dis- long-time residents and returning visi- by between 1-3 for a fun craft. Museum Day festivities will celebrate the town tricts, any time you want. This summer, tors will learn new facts about familiar admission charges apply, but as always, that pre-dates Durango. Now known the Durango Herald Small Press is set places. Walking Durango: History, members are free. as north Durango, Animas City was to release Walking Durango: History, Sights, and Stories belongs on every- founded in 1876. Also that day we will Sights, and Stories, by Peggy Wink- one’s bookshelf – and in their hands as Friday, May 24 - Community Heritage host the Animas City School Reunion. worth, the first in a projected series of they stroll through downtown. Awards at the Bar D Chuckwagon. If you attended school in the building regional guidebooks from the Press The book is scheduled for release Gates open at 5:30, dinner is at 7:30 that now houses the Museum, be sure aptly named “Detours.” by early June, and will be for sale all followed by a performance by the Bar D to let us know your contact information The La Plata County Historical over town. Best of all, visit the Animas Wranglers. Tickets are $40, reservation so we can keep your posted about this Society is proud to be a collaborator Museum first. Buy a copy in the Museum deadline is Friday, May 17. special occasion. with Winkworth on this entertaining Store, look around the Museum, then Saturday, June 1- Join us at and informative book that takes you head downtown for your tour. Wherever Saturday, October 12- Durango Greenmount Cemetery at 10 a.m. Heritage Celebration activities at the on a history scavenger hunt through you buy it, the La Plata County Historical for the tour, “Barkeeps, Ruffians and Durango’s downtown historic districts. Society will earn royalties. So buy more Museum 1-3, Museum admission Shady Ladies”. Bring a hat and water charges apply. Winkworth’s close-up photographs will than one copy. Make it your “welcome bottle and learn about some of the give you clues to what you’re looking to town” gift whenever you have visitors. characters that made La Plata County Friday, December 6- Preview the for as you walk up Main Avenue and They’ll thank you, and so will we. so interesting. Free, but donations will down the Boulevard. Find what you treasures at the annual Old-Fashioned benefit the Animas Museum. Christmas Bazaar from 5-7 and join us see in the photo, then turn the page in the Joy Cabin for holiday treats by and learn interesting details about the Saturday Summer fun is always candlelight. Warm up by the fire and buildings, the people, on tap at the Museum. Stop by celebrate in 1876 style! and the events that have between 1 and 3 for a craft and museum exploration. Regular shaped Durango. Saturday, December 7- Local artists The book is lav- admission is charged, but there is no additional charge for the craft. will fill the Museum with handcrafted ishly illustrated with items perfect for holiday giving, 9-3. historic photos from June 29- Get ready for Independence the Animas Museum’s Day with a patriotic craft We are always adding informative archives. Stories from July 27- Beat the heat with an old- interesting programs and fun events to the past add to the fashioned fan our calendar, so visit our website at www. fun. What did the animasmuseum.org or follow us on August 31- Get ready to go back to train haul to Silverton Facebook for the very latest schedule. school with a stamped bookcover before there were tour- ists? Why did outlaws September 28 - Catch fall breezes kidnap a minister, and with a handmade kite what did they force him to do at gunpoint? Who are the two Civil Proud of Our War Medal of Honor recipients who played Western Heritage an important part in Powder Coating our history? What de- Wood Finishing • Media Blasting partment store owner Ceramic Hot-Coating had his clerks throw Industrial and Special Coatings pennies on the floor, and why? First time visitors Mesa Color Job Shop will enjoy the leisurely 970.259.2270 • mesacolorjobshop.com

A Publication of the la plata County122003 historIcal5/5 Mesa Color society Inc #83 od History La Plata 24 May 5, 2013 Vol. xIX

Join Us Friends of the on Our Historic Journey! Animas Museum he Chinese philosopher Lao Tzu said, community and preserve the artifacts T Allen C. Harper “Do the difficult things while they are that will be a legacy for future genera- Barbara & Greg Martin easy and do the great things while they tions. If you are already a member, please Brianna & Joe McCormick are small. A journey of a thousand miles consider upgrading your membership. Bruce Spining must begin with a single step.” At the We also invite you to volunteer. Wheth- Bud & Jean Poe La Plata County Historical Society our er you volunteer on a long-term basis or Carroll & Maxine Peterson journey takes us down the road of our for the occasional project, we need your Cheryl community’s past. From humble begin- help to fulfill our mission to keep La Chuck & Janet Williams nings with only a vision of a museum Plata County history and culture alive for Diane L. Skinner Lois & Ed Bartig-Small Paula Wiseman Lou & Gay Kiene Rani & Ralph Holt “someday”, we have grown to operate a present and future generations. Donald Searcy Ironside Donna I. Ninde Marie Roessler Ray & Carol Schmudde unique facility in a magnificent historic Jean & Tom Campion Marilee Jantzer White Robert McDaniel & Jill building. Our exhibits and programming Use the form on this page to Jeanne Parks Marilyn Barnhart Seyfarth tell the stories of our community and Mary Jane Hood Ruth E. Lambert join the historical society and Jeff Johnson preserve the artifacts that will be a legacy Jim & Bernice Bowra Megan Beth Ried Steve & Holly Martineau for future generations. call the Museum at 259-2402 Joyce Erickson Merl Short Family The Wielang Family, Cheryl Accompany us on this journey and for more information about Kathy McKenzie Michael & Barb Bell Wielang Shaw take that first step by joining the La Plata volunteering. You may also join Kathy Szelag Nancy & Derrill Macho, Ma- County Historical Society. Our exhibits online by visiting our website at Les Goldman cho Ranch and programming tell the stories of our www.animasmuseum.org.

A Publication of the la plata County historIcal society