Western USA 4

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Western USA

MT Pacific ND Northwest p353

OR Rocky ID Mountains SD p68 WY

NV NE CA UT

Southwest CO California p140 KS p237

OK AZ NM

Hugh McNaughtan, Brett Atkinson, Loren Bell, Greg Benchwick, Andrew Bender, Sara Benson, Alison Bing, Cristian Bonetto, Celeste Brash, Jade Bremner, Nate Cavalieri, Michael Grosberg, Ashley Harrell, Carolyn McCarthy, Becky Ohlsen, Christopher Pitts, Liza Prado, Josephine Quintero, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Helena Smith, John A Vlahides, Benedict Walker, Clifton Wilkinson PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to ROCKY Arizona...... 160 Western USA...... 4 MOUNTAINS. . . . . 68 Phoenix ...... 161 Western USA Map. . . . . 6 Colorado ...... 72 Central Arizona...... 169 Western USA’s Top 25. . . 8 Denver...... 72 Grand Canyon Need to Know...... 20 National Park ...... 176 Boulder ...... 81 If You Like…...... 22 Around the Northern Mountains. . . . . 84 Month by Month. . . . . 26 Grand Canyon...... 183 Central Colorado...... 88 Itineraries ...... 30 Northern & Southern Colorado . . . . . 97 Eastern Arizona ...... 183 Route 66 & Scenic Drives . . . . . 35 Wyoming ...... 105 Western Arizona...... 186 Cheyenne...... 105 Outdoor Activities. . . . 44 Southern Arizona. . . . . 186 Laramie...... 106 Eat & Drink Around Tucson...... 190 Like a Local...... 55 Lander...... 108 Southeastern Arizona. . . 192 Travel with Children. . . . 62 Jackson...... 109 Utah ...... 193 Regions at a Glance. . . . 65 Cody...... 111 Salt Lake City...... 194 Yellowstone Park City & Wasatch National Park ...... 112 Mountains...... 198 Grand Teton Northeastern Utah. . . . . 203 National Park ...... 117 XUANLU WANG /SHUTTERSTOCK © Moab & Montana...... 121 Southeastern Utah ...... 204 Bozeman...... 121 Zion & Gallatin & Southwestern Utah. . . . . 209 Paradise Valleys...... 122 New Mexico...... 213 Billings...... 123 Albuquerque...... 214 Helena...... 124 Along I-40...... 217 Missoula...... 124 Santa Fe...... 218 Flathead Lake...... 126 Around Santa Fe...... 225 Whitefish...... 127 Northwestern Glacier National Park . . . 128 New Mexico...... 230 SEATTLE P357 Idaho ...... 130 Northeastern New Mexico...... 230 Boise...... 130 Southwestern Ketchum & Sun Valley. . . 132 New Mexico...... 231 JUSTIN FOULKES / LONELY PLANET © Stanley...... 134 Southeastern Idaho Panhandle . . . . . 135 New Mexico...... 233

SOUTHWEST. . . . . 140 CALIFORNIA. . . . . 237 Nevada...... 144 Los Angeles...... 240 Las Vegas...... 144 Southern Around Las Vegas . . . . . 156 Californian Coast. . . . 265 Western Nevada...... 156 Disneyland & Anaheim. . . 265 The Great Basin...... 160 Orange County Beaches. . . 267 San Diego ...... 269 WHITE SANDS NATIONAL MONUMENT P233 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Palm Springs California’s Western USA Today . . . 412 & the Deserts...... 280 Northern Mountains. . . . 341 History...... 414 Palm Springs...... 280 Sierra Nevada...... 343 The Way of Life...... 424 Joshua Tree Yosemite Native Americans. . . . 427 National Park ...... 283 National Park ...... 344 Arts & Architecture. . . 431 Anza-Borrego Sequoia & Kings Canyon Desert State Park...... 284 National Parks ...... 347 The Land & Wildlife. . . 437 Mojave National Eastern Sierra...... 349 Preserve...... 285 Lake Tahoe ...... 351 Death Valley National Park ...... 286 SURVIVAL Central Coast...... 287 PACIFIC NORTHWEST. . . . . 353 GUIDE Santa Barbara...... 287 Santa Barbara to Washington...... 357 San Luis Obispo...... 290 Seattle...... 357 Directory A–Z...... 446 San Luis Obispo...... 290 Olympia...... 371 Transportation . . . . . 457 Morro Bay Olympic Peninsula. . . . . 372 Index...... 468 to Hearst Castle...... 292 Northwest Washington. . . 375 Map Legend...... 477 Big Sur...... 293 San Juan Islands . . . . . 377 Carmel...... 294 North Cascades...... 379 Monterey...... 295 Northeastern Santa Cruz ...... 297 Washington...... 381 San Francisco South Cascades...... 382 & the Bay Area...... 299 Central & Southeastern San Francisco...... 299 Washington...... 383 Marin County ...... 325 Oregon...... 385 Berkeley...... 326 Portland...... 385 Northern California. . . 328 Willamette Valley...... 395 Wine Country...... 328 Columbia River Gorge. . . . 397 North Coast...... 333 Oregon Cascades...... 398 Sacramento...... 338 Oregon Coast...... 402 Gold Country...... 339 Southern Oregon...... 407 Eastern Oregon...... 409 SPECIAL FEATURES Route 66 & Scenic Drives . . . . . 35 Outdoor Activities...... 44 Western USA’s National Parks. . . . . 136 West Coast Beaches. . . 138 Alcatraz 3D Illustration . . . . . 312 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 30

Itineraries

12 É [Ù Arches National Park ÷# Moab•#

NEVADA Canyonlands ÷# National Park UTAH É

VUÓ15 É •# Monument Valley Valley of Fire State Park Las •# É Vegas •# •# Grand Canyon Hoover Dam National Park ARIZONA ÷#

#•

2 WEEKS Best of the Southwest

Cameras get a workout on this tour, which spotlights the most iconic sites in the South- west. You’ll loop past the region’s most famous city, its biggest canyon and its most breathtaking red-rock scenery. Start in Las Vegas and spend a few days traveling the world on the Strip. Partied out? Swoop east past Hoover Dam, then say hello to the Grand Canyon. Spend two days exploring America’s most famous park. For a once-in-a-lifetime experience, descend from the South Rim into the chasm on a mule and spend the night at Phantom Ranch on the canyon floor. From the Grand Canyon head northeast to Monument Valley, with scenery straight out of a Hollywood Western, and then to the national parks in Utah’s southeast corner – they’re some of the most visually stunning in the country. Hike the shape-shifting canyons of Canyonlands National Park, mountain bike slickrock outside Moab, or take a photo of Balanced Rock in Arches National Park. Drive west along a spectacular stretch of pavement, Hwy 12, until it hooks up with I-15. Swing south for a sunset meditation at Valley of Fire State Park, before heading back to Las Vegas. 31

CANADA Seattle•##• WASHINGTON #÷ Mt Rainier National Park Portland •# •# Columbia River Gorge R MONTANA

Mt Hood TRIP YOUR PLAN SistersR

Crater É Lake •# OREGON Redwood National ÷# •##• IDAHO & State Parks Ashland •##• Arcata PACIFIC •##• Eureka WYOMING Lost Coast •##• OCEAN Mendocino •##• É Napa & NEVADA •##• Sonoma Valleys It •# San Francisco #• UTAH i nerar •##• Santa Cruz COLORADO Monterey •##• •##• Big Sur Hearst Castle •##•

•##• San Luis Obispo i es CALIFORNIA Santa Barbara•##• É Los Angeles Channel Islands •##• •##• •# #• Laguna Beach NEW MEXICO San Diego •##• ARIZONA

MEXICO

4 WEEKS Winding Down the West Coast

Hug a tree, surf a wave and taste the fresh deliciousness of West Coast fare on this nature-lover’s trip, which ribbons from Seattle to San Diego. Kick off with fresh-roasted coffee in java-loving Seattle and check out the city’s sprawling food markets, microbreweries and waterfront. Heading south, visit Mt Rain- ier National Park, where superb hiking trails and relaxing inns nestle beneath the snow-covered peak. Continue to the cutting-edge city of Portland, known for its sprawling parks, eco-minded residents and progressive urbanism – plus food carts, coffeehouse culture and great nightlife. Wonder at waterfalls and indulge in fresh roadside produce with a scenic drive east along the Columbia River Gorge, then turn south to get to Mt Hood for winter skiing or summer hiking. Further adventures await at the Sisters, a trio of 10,000ft peaks, and the striking blue waters of Crater Lake. Catch a Shakespear- ian play in sunny Ashland, then trade the mountains for the foggy coast. Enter Cali- fornia via Hwy 199 and stroll through the magnificent old-growth forests in Redwood National and State Parks. Hug the coast as it meanders south through funky Arcata and seaside Eureka, lose yourself on the Lost Coast, and catch Hwy 1 through quaint Mendocino, where the scenic headlands and rugged shoreline make a wander mandatory. For wine tasting with a photogenic backdrop, travel inland to the rolling vineyards of the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, then continue south to romantically hilly San Francisco. Return to scenic Hwy 1 through surf-loving Santa Cruz, stately bayfront Monterey and beatnik-flavored Big Sur. In no time, you’ll reach the surreal Hearst Castle and laid-back, collegiate San Luis Obispo. Roll into Mediterranean-esque Santa Barbara for shopping and wine tasting then hop aboard a ferry in Ventura to the wildlife-rich Channel Islands. The pull from Los Angeles is strong. Go ahead – indulge your Hollywood fantasies then stroll the rugged hills of Griffith Park, followed by a cruise through LA’s palm-lined neighborhoods. After racking up a few sins in the City of Angels, move south to wander the bluffs of Laguna Beach then cruise into picture-perfect San Diego. SPONDYLOLITHESIS / GETTY IMAGES © ) 214 ), San 309 Top: GoldenTop: Gate (p Bridge Francisco Bottom: Folk dancers, (p Albuquerque

JOHN ELK III / GETTY IMAGES ©

Itineraries

PLAN YOUR TRIP 32 33

CANADA

Glacier P A C I F I C National ÷# WASHINGTON Park Bob Marshall O C E A N ÷# Wilderness Complex

•#Missoula MONTANA TRIP YOUR PLAN É •# Bozeman OREGON IDAHO Yellowstone ÷# National Park ÷# Grand Teton

National Park Jackson Hole •# É •#

Lander WYOMING It

i nerar É Rocky Mountain NEVADA UTAH ÷#National Park

•# Boulder i es •# CALIFORNIA Breckenridge É •# Telluride •# Salida •# Ouray Silverton •# COLORADO •#Durango ARIZONA NEW MEXICO

3 WEEKS Rocky Mountain High

Pack your bathing suit, mountain bike and hiking boots for this high-altitude cruise atop the Continental Divide; it’s big skies, big peaks and big wildlife the whole way. Spend your first two days enjoying craft beers and singletrack mountain-biking trails in Durango, a fine mountain town. From here, take the Million Dollar Hwy (Hwy 550) north through the San Juan Mountains, sightseeing in Silverton and dipping into hot springs in Ouray. Take a side trip to Telluride for a festival – there’s one almost every weekend in summer. From Montrose, drive east on Hwy 50 to the Arkansas River Valley and white-water rafting through Brown’s Canyon National Monument in Salida. Hwy 24 continues past Colorado’s tallest peaks; finish your first week in style with an over- night stay in historic Breckenridge. Enjoy tubing, happy hour and people-watching in funky Boulder then twist up to Rocky Mountain National Park to hike and horseback ride. While here, drive the thrilling Trail Ridge Rd up above the treeline. Continue north on I-25. In Wyoming, take I-80 west to Hwy 287; follow this highway to Lander for rock climbing. Continue north to Jackson Hole, another fun gateway town. Anchored by a central park surrounded by chic stores and cowboy bars, it’s a good place to relax, indulge in a gourmet meal or spend the night before rafting the Snake River. From here, it’s an easy glide north into Grand Teton National Park, a scenic spot for a lazy lake day and bison photo-ops. Next up is mighty Yellowstone National Park, where geysers, bears and hiking are highlights. Start your last week with a drive on the gorgeous Beartooth Hwy, following it into Montana then hooking onto I-90 west to Bozeman and Missoula; both are good places to stock up before the final push. Serious wilderness awaits in the Bob Marshall Wil- derness Complex, while Glacier National Park is a place to visit now – there are still some 26 glaciers hanging tight, but they may not be there for long. Scan for wildlife on a hike, then end with a drive on the stunning Going-to-the-Sun Road. 34

CANADA

Seattle •# É ÷# Glacier WASHINGTON National Park

Portland •# •# MONTANA Columbia É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN River Gorge Bend •#

É OREGON Yellowstone Redwood National IDAHO ÷# National Park & State Parks ÷# ÷# Grand Teton National Park CALIFORNIA WYOMING P A C I F I C NEVADA É O C E A N É Yosemite It UTAH Boulder National Park •# i nerar San Francisco•# ÷# Denver

Sequoia & •#

É Kings Canyon É National Parks Mesa Verde COLORADO Big Sur •# ÷# National Park Hearst Castle •# Las Vegas ÷# i es ÷# •# ÷#

Death Valley Grand Canyon •#Taos Santa Barbara •# NÉ ational Park National Park

•# Disneyland •# •# Santa Fe Los Angeles •# É •# •# Orange Meteor Albuquerque County Crater San Diego •# ARIZONA NEW MEXICO MEXICO

4 WEEKS Western US Grand Tour

This lasso loop corrals the best of the West as it rolls north along the California coast, #• cruises through the lush landscapes of the Pacific Northwest, the alpine#• towns of the Rockies and the glowing red-rock beauty of the Southwest, with a final swing back into California for a hit-parade tour of the state’s national parks. From sunny San Diego, follow Hwy 1 north through the surf-loving coastal villages of Orange County, detouring to Disneyland before driving into shiny Los Angeles. Con- tinue up the coast on scenic Hwy 1, stopping to shop and sample wine in glossy Santa Barbara. Gawk at gawdy Hearst Castle then continue north through woodsy Big Sur. Dine and shop then wander through Alcatraz in bohemian San Francisco. Return to Hwy 1 for the quirky towns dotting the northern California coast. View the big trees in Redwood National and State Parks and continue into Oregon, taking time for outdoor fun in Bend. Soak in the greenery while traveling west along the Columbia River Gorge, then spend a few days savoring brews and views in Portland. Zip up the Space Needle in Seattle and drive east into wide-open Montana, heading for the outdoor wonders of Glacier National Park. Continue south into Yellowstone National Park where Old Faithful blasts regularly beside its namesake lodge, and sight- seers brake for buffalo. Swoosh below majestic peaks in Grand Teton National Park before swinging southeast through Wyoming’s vast cowboy plains. In Colorado, breathe deep in outdoorsy Boulder then uncover current hot spots in burgeoning Denver. The mining towns of central Colorado are next, followed by Mesa Verde National Park. Just south in New Mexico, artist meccas Taos and Santa Fe are fab stops for one-of-a-kind gifts. Slurp green chile in Albuquerque and follow Route 66 west into Arizona, stopping at Meteor Crater before detouring north for Grand Can- yon National Park. Continue west to Las Vegas, then drive into central California for Death Valley National Park, and Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks, con- cluding with Yosemite National Park. Complete the loop with a glass of Californian wine in San Francisco. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 468

Index

18b Arts District 147 Anza-Borrego Desert State Economos/Hampton Taos Art Museum & Park 284-5 Galleries 219 Fechin Institute 227 Apache people 427 Frederick R Weisman Art Timken Museum of A aquariums Foundation 251 Art 273 Abiquiu 226 Aquarium of the Bay 315 Gallery of Fine Art 143 Tucson Museum of Art accommodations 446, see Georgia O’Keeffe Museum 187-8 also individual locations Aquarium of the Pacific 254 218 arts 429-30, 436, see also Acoma Pueblo 217-18 Birch Aquarium at Scripps Gerald Peters Gallery 219 literature, music activities 26-9, see also 275 Getty Center 251 Ashland 407-8 individual activities Monterey Bay Aquarium Getty Villa 251 Aspen 92-3, 18 air travel 457-8, 460 295 GF Contemporary 219 Astoria 403-4 Ajo Mountain Drive 191-2 Oregon Coast Aquarium Hallie Ford Museum of ATMs 452 Alamogordo 234 405 Art 396 Auburn State Recreation Albuquerque 214-17, 32 Seattle Aquarium 364 Hammer Museum 251 Area 340 Alcatraz 312-13, 314, 312-13 Seymour Marine Discov- Harwood Foundation Avenue of the Giants 335 Alvord Desert 410 ery Center 297 Museum 227 Avila Beach 290 amphibians 441 Shark Reef Aquarium 147 Hauser & Wirth 241 Aztec Ruins National Monu- amusement parks Arcata 336 Laguna Art Museum 268 ment 230 Belmont Park 275 Arches National Park Los Angeles County Disney California Adven- 207, 23 Museum of Art 250 B ture 17, 265-6, architecture 435-6 Marc Navarro Gallery 219 17 Badwater 286 Disneyland 17, 265-7 Bradbury Building 242-3 MOCA Grand 245 bald eagles 441-2 Epic Discovery 63 Earthships 227 Morning Star Gallery 219 Balmy Alley 307 Knott’s Berry Farm 266 Gamble House 255 Museum of Church Bandelier National Monu- History & Art 195 Legoland 63 Taliesin West 162-3 ment 225-6 Museum of Contemporary Musée Mécanique 307 Area 51 160 basketry 429-30 Art 269 Santa Cruz Beach Board- area codes 454 bathrooms 454 walk 297 Arizona 160-93 Museum of International Folk Art 221 Battleship Iowa 254 Stratosphere 147 Armstrong Redwoods State beaches 46, 138-9 Utah Olympic Park 200 Reserve 332 Museum of Latin Ameri- can Art 254 Baker Beach 307 Wet ‘n’ Wild Phoenix 169 art museums & galleries, Nedra Matteucci Galler- Balboa Peninsula 268 Anaheim 265-7 see also museums ies 219 Cannon Beach 404 Ancient Bristlecone Pine Adobe Gallery 219 Nevada Museum of Forest 349 Albuquerque Museum of Huntington Beach 268, Art 157 Andrew Molera State Park Art & History 214 139 New Mexico Museum of 294 Arts Factory 147 La Jolla 275-6, 139 Art 221 Angels Camp 340 Asian Art Museum 300 Laguna Beach 268 Norton Simon Museum Mission Beach 273-4, 275 Angels Landing 212 Aspen Art Museum 92 255 Natural Bridges State animals 435-7, see also Balmy Alley 307 Palm Springs Art Museum Beach 297 individual species Boise Art Museum 131 280 Newport Beach 268 Antelope Canyon 184 Chihuly Garden & Glass Phoenix Art Museum 162 Ocean Beach 309 Antelope Island State 359 Portland Art Museum 387 Park 202 Orange County 267-9 Colorado Springs Fine San Diego Museum of Arts Center 95 Art 273 Pacific Beach 273-4, 275 Crocker Art Museum 338 Schneider Museum of Pfeiffer Beach’ 293 de Young Museum 309 Rodeo Beach 325 Map Pages 000 Art 407 Diego Rivera Gallery 303 San Diego 273-4 Photo Pages 000 Seattle Art Museum 358 469 Santa Monica 252, 138 border crossings 458-9 camping 44-5 Historical Park 230 Steamer Lane 46, 139 Boulder (Rocky Mountains) Cannon Beach 404-5 Channel Islands National Stinson Beach 326 81-4 canoeing 49-50 Park 288 Venice Beach 253, 23 Boulder (Utah) 209-10 Canyon de Chelly National Cheyenne 105-6 bears 442 Boulder Creek 81 Monument 184-5 children, travel with 62-4 Bears Ears National Bozeman 121-2 canyoneering 53-4 Albuquerque 214 Monument 201 Bradbury Building 242-3 Canyonlands National Park Las Vegas 146 INDEX Beartooth Highway 39-41, Breckenridge 89-90 207-8, 137 Los Angeles 258 113 breweries Cape Flattery 375 Phoenix 169

Beat Generation 431-2 Breakside Brewery 393 Cape Perpetua Scenic Salt Lake City 199 B-C beer 60 Bristol Brewing Co 96 Area 406 San Francisco 315 Bellingham 376-7 Broken Compass Capitan 235 Seattle 364 Bend 400-2 Brewing 90 Capitol Reef National Chiricahua National Park 209 Berkeley 326-8 Cider Riot 393 Monument 193 Capulin Volcano National bicycle travel 460-1, 464 Ecliptic Brewing 393 churches & cathedrals Monument 231 bicycling, see cycling Fieldwork Brewing El Santuario de Chimayó car travel 458-9, 461-4 Big Sur 293-4, Company 339 227 11 driver’s licenses 462 bighorn sheep 443 Firestone Walker Brewing La Placita 245 Company 292 insurance 463 Billings 123-4 Mission Basilica San Four Peaks Brewing rental 461-2 Diego de Alcalá 274 Billy the Kid National Company 167 road distances chart 462 Scenic Byway 235 Mission Dolores 307 Hopworks Urban Brew- rules 463 birds 441-2 Mission San Carlos ery 393 Carlsbad 236 Borromeo de Carmelo bird-watching Mammoth Brewing Carmel 294-5 294 Bosque del Apache Company 351 Carson City 159 Mission Santa Barbara National Wildlife Marble Brewery 217 287 Refuge 231 casinos Ninkasi Brewing Com- San Francisco de Asís Atlantis 157 Klamath Basin National pany 397 Church 227 Wildlife Refuge Com- Bellagio 143 Ska Brewing Company Cimarron 230-1 plex 343 Caesars Palace 146 104 City Lights Books 303 Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Cosmopolitan 143 Bryce Canyon National CityCenter 143 Preserve 192 LINQ Casino 143-4 Park 210-11 Clark, William 403, 416-17 Pinnacles National Lucky Dragon 146-7 Park 293 budget 21 climate 20, 26-9 Mandalay Bay 143 World Center for Birds of Bureau of Land Manage- Cloudcroft 234 ment 450 New York–New York 146 Prey 131 cocktails 61 Burning Man 28, 161, 424 Paris Las Vegas 146 Bisbee 193 Cody 111-12 bus travel 458, 461, 464 Silver Legacy 157 Bishop 349 coffee 61 bushwalking, see hiking Wynn & Encore Casinos Bisti Badlands & De-Na-Zin Coit Tower 317 business hours 453 146 Wilderness 230 Coloma 340 Cathedral Gorge State Bixby Creek Bridge 294, 11 Park 163 Colorado 70-105 Bluff 208 C cathedrals, see churches & Colorado Springs 95-6 boat travel 459-60, 461 cable cars cathedrals Columbia Center 365 boat trips Palm Springs Aerial caving Columbia River Gorge 16, Bellingham 376 Tramway 280 Boyden Cavern 347 397-8, 16 Eureka 336 Powell St Cable Car Crystal Cave 347 Columbia River Highway Turnaround 300 Glacier National Park Kartchner Caverns State 43, 40 129 Sandia Peak Tramway Park 192 Columbia State Historic 215 Monterey 296 Lake Shasta Caverns Park 340 San Diego 276 California 65, 237-352, 342 Comic-Con International 238-9 Santa Barbara 288 Oregon Caves National 28 Bodega Bay 333 accommodations 237 Monument & Preserve condors 441-2 Bodie State Historic Park climate 237 409 consulates 449 349 culture 424 cell phones 20, 454 cooking courses 220 Boise 130-2 food 56-7, 237 cemeteries Cougar 383 Book of Mormon, the 198 geology 437-8 Boothill Graveyard 193 Coupeville 376 books 412, 420, 430, 432, highlights 238-9 Hollywood Forever Crater Lake National 439, 441, 443 itineraries 241 Cemetery 248 Park 402 architecture 436 Cambria 292 Westwood Village Memo- credit cards 453 history 418 Cameron 184 rial Park Cemetery 251 Crested Butte 97-8 Chaco Culture National 470 cross-country skiing disabilities, travelers fishing Golden Gate Bridge 52, see also skiing & with 455 Cimarron Canyon State 309, 32 snowboarding Disney California Adven- Park 231 Golden Gate Park 309 Crater Lake National ture 17, 265-6, 17 Olympic National Park Grand Canyon National Park 402 Disneyland 17, 265-7 373 Park 10, 176-83, 178-9, Methow Valley 380 distilleries Sawtooth National 10, 48

INDEX INDEX Royal Gorge 352 Breckenridge Distillery Recreation Area 134 Grand Coulee Dam 383 Winter Park 88-9 90 Steamboat Springs 87 Grand Staircase-Escalante culture 424-6 Santa Fe Spirits 223 Flagstaff 19, 172-6, 19 National Monument 210 currency 20 Grand Teton National Park C-H diving 53, 296 Flaming Gorge National customs regulations 448 Dolby Theatre 248 Recreation Area 204 117-21, 119 cycling 45-6, see also Donner Summit 352 Flathead Lake 126-7 Grass Valley 340 bicycle travel drinks 60-1, see also beer, food 23, 55-61, 58 Great American Beer Albuquerque 215 coffee, wine breakfast burritos 57 Festival 28, 71 Bellingham 376 driver’s licenses 462 buffets 154 Great Basin 160 Grand Canyon National driving, see car travel Californian cuisine 56-7 Great Basin National Park 160 Park 179 Dunsmuir 342 etiquette 55 Great Sand Dunes National Grand Teton National Durango 103-4 farm-grown produce 56 Park 118 Park 104-5 DVDs 448 fish 56 Los Angeles 255 Green River 204-5 Mexican food 59 Monterey 296 Guerneville 331-2 Native American food 59 Olympic Discovery E Pacific Northwest Trail 374 economy 413 food 57 H Portland 389 El Morro National Monu- regional specialties 55-6 Havasupai Canyon 183 San Francisco 311 ment 218 Southwest cuisine 57-9 Havasupai people 427 Santa Barbara 288 electricity 449 vegetarians & vegans Healdsburg 332 Steamboat Springs 87 elk 442 59-60 health 449-51 Sun Valley 133 Elko 160 wild food 56 Hearst Castle 292, 435 Trail of the Coeur Ellensburg 383-4 Forks 375 Helena 124 d’Alenes 135 embassies 449 Fort Ross State Historic emergencies 449 Hells Canyon 410 Vail 90 Park 333 Empire Mine State Historic Highway 12 41 Yellowstone National Fort Worden State Park Park 340 Highway 89/89A 38 Park 115-16 373-4 environmental issues 412- hiking 24, 45, 49 free-tailed bats 442 13, 443-4 Albuquerque 215 Fremont Street Experi- D Escalante 210 Boise 131 dangers, see safety ence 147 Estes Park 86-7 Camelback Mountain 163 Dead Horse Point State Fremont Troll 362 etiquette 428, 449 Canyonlands National Park 208 Eugene 396-7 Park 207-8 Death Valley National Park events, see festivals & G Cape Perpetua Scenic 286-7, 40 events Gallatin Valley 122-3 Area 406 Denver 70-81, 76-7 exchange rates 21, 453 galleries, see art museums Capitol Reef National accommodations 71-5 & galleries Park 209 drinking & nightlife 75-7 Gamble House 255 Chiricahua National entertainment 77-9 F gardens, see parks & Monument 193 festivals & events 71 farmers markets gardens Cimarron Canyon State food 75 Arcata 336 Garnet Ghost Town 125 Park 231 shopping 79 Boulder County Farmers gay travelers 449 Crater Lake National Market 84 Park 402 sights 70-1 Los Angeles 262 Los Angeles 257, 260 Denver 80 travel to/from 80 San Francisco 321 Olympia Farmers Market Eldorado Canyon State travel within 80-1 General Sherman Tree 347 372 Park 81 Desolation Wilderness 351 geology 22, 437-41 Phoenix 168 Galena Creek Recreation Devils Postpile National Gila Cliff Dwellings Na- San Francisco 316 Area 157 Monument 349 tional Monument 233 Santa Fe 223 Garden of the Gods 95 Dinosaur National Monu- Gila National Forest 233 Glacier National Park ment 204 Farmington 230 Glacier National Park 19, 129 Ferry Building 299 128-30, 19 festivals & events 26-9 Golden Gate Canyon Going-to-the-Sun Road State Park 80 film studios 250 42, 128 Grand Canyon National Map Pages 000 films 412, 422, 433-5 Gold Country 339-41 Park 177-9, 182 Photo Pages 000 471 Grand Teton National Lewis, Meriwether 416-17 California 241 Lander 108-9 Park 118 Long Walk 418-19 Los Angeles 245 Laramie 106-8 Great Sand Dunes Los Alamos 420-1 Pacific Northwest 356 Las Cruces 232-3 National Park 105 Native American people Rocky Mountains 74 Las Vegas 15, 142-56, Indian Canyons 281 414-15, 418-19 San Francisco 300 149, 15 Jack London State Oregon Trail 418 Southwest 141 accommodations 148-51

Historic Park 330 INDEX pioneers 417-18 activities 148 Jefferson County Open Silicon Valley 422-3 children 146 Space Parks 80 Wild West 419 J drinking & nightlife Joshua Tree National Jackson 109-11 WWII 420-1 153-4 H-L Park 283 Jacksonville 408-9 holidays 454 emergencies 155 Kings Canyon National Jalama Beach County entertainment 154-5 Park 347-8 Hood River 398 Park 290 food 152-3 Lassen Volcanic National Hoover Dam 156 Jedediah Smith Redwoods medical services 155 Park 343 Hopi people 427-8 State Park 337, 137 Los Angeles 255 horseback riding 53 Jenner 333 shopping 155 Maroon Bells 92 Palm Springs 281 Jerome 170-1 sights 143-8 Moran State Park 378 Phoenix 163 Jerome State Historic tourist information 156 Mount Sentinel 125 Saguaro National Park Park 170 travel to/from 156 Mt Baker 379 190-1 jewelry 430 travel within 156 Mt Hood 399 hot springs & spas John Day Fossil Beds Las Vegas (New Mexico) Mt Rainier National Agua Caliente Regional National Monument 225 Park 382 Park 284 409-10 Lassen Volcanic National North Umpqua Trail 409 Chico Hot Springs 123 Joshua Tree National Park Park 343 Olympic Discovery Devils Postpile National 283-4 Lava Beds National Monu- Trail 374 Monument 349 ment 343 Esalen Institute 293 Leavenworth 379-80 Olympic National Park K Granite Creek Hot legal matters 452 372-3 Kanab 211 Springs 110 lesbian travelers 449 Pike National Forest 80 Kartchner Caverns State Kirkham Creek Hot Pikes Peak 95 Park 192 Los Angeles 262 Springs 134 Portland 388-9 kayaking 49-50 San Francisco 321 Ojo Caliente Mineral Rocky Mountain National Hood River 398 Lewis, Meriwether 403, Park 85 Springs Resort & 416-17 Spa 226 Lake Tahoe 351 Saguaro National Park Lincoln 235 Ouray 98 Las Vegas 148 190-1 literature 431-2, see also Monterey 296 Santa Fe 219 Qua Baths & Spa 148 books Steamboat Springs 87-8 Point Reyes National Little Bighorn Battlefield Sawtooth National Seashore 326 Recreation Area 134 Sykes Hot Springs’ 293 National Monument 125 Portland 389 Standish-Hickey State Truth or Consequence Living Desert State Park Recreation Area 335 231 San Diego 276 236 Staunton State Park 80 Umpqua Hot Springs San Francisco 311 Lombard Street 303 Sun Valley 133 409 Seattle 363 Lopez Island 379 Sunset Crater Volcano Willamette Valley 396 Truckee River Whitewa- Los Alamos 225 ter Park 157-8 National Monument hot-air ballooning 53, 215 Los Angeles 10, 240-65, 177 Hovenweep National Ketchum 132-4 242-3, 10, 23 Wallowa Mountains Monument 208-9 Kingman 186 accommodations 256-8 Area 410 Hualapai people 428-9 Kings Canyon National activities 255-6 Park 347-8 Waterton Canyon 80 Hualapai Reservation 183 Beverly Hills 251, 257-8 kitesurfing 398 Whitefish 127 Humboldt Redwoods State children 258 Park 335 Klamath Basin National Yellowstone National Downtown 241-3, 256, Park 115-16 Wildlife Refuge Com- plex 343 259, 246-7 Yosemite National Park drinking & eating 261-2 345 I Klamath River 444 ice climbing 98 El Pueblo de Los Angeles Zion National Park 211-12 Idaho 130-5 243-4 history 414-23 Idaho Panhandle 135 L entertainment 262-3 California 421-2 immigration 457 La Purísima Mission State festivals & events 256 Clark, William 416-17 Historic Park 290 in-line skating 255 food 259-61 Corps of Discovery Lake Chelan 380 insurance 451, 463 gay & lesbian travelers 416-17 Lake Mead 156 internet access 451 262 European settlement 416 Lake Powell 184 internet resources 21 Griffith Park 248-50, first inhabitants 414-15 Lake Tahoe 351-2 259-60 itineraries 30-4 472 Los Angeles continued Fremont Brewing Com- Mt St Helens National Vol- Exploratorium 299-300 Hollywood 248, 249, pany 367 canic Monument 383 Fremont County Pioneer 250-1, 256-7, 259-60, June Lake Brewing 350 Mt Tamalpais State Park Museum 108 252-3 Mountain Sun 83 326 Frontier Days Old West itineraries 245 Six Rivers Brewery 338 Murphys 340 Museum 105-6 Long Beach 253-4, Snake River Brewing museums 24 Geological Museum 107

INDEX INDEX 258, 261 Co 111 American International Giant Forest Museum Malibu 251 Terminal Gravity Brewing Rattlesnake Museum 347 medical services 264 410 214 Grammy Museum 246 Three Rivers Eatery & Anasazi State Park Griffith Observatory 249 ,L-M Mid-City 250-1, 260 Museum 209-10 252-3 Brewhouse 230 Heard Museum 161-2

Arizona Museum of Pasadena 254-5, 258, Thunder Canyon Brew- High Desert Museum Natural History 163 261 ery 190 400 Arizona Science Center Presidio 306-7 Überbrew 123-4 History Colorado 169 Santa Monica 252, 258, Million Dollar Highway Center 71 Arizona-Sonora Desert 260, 39, 98 Hollywood Museum 248 254 Museum 187 shopping 263-4 Mission San Xavier del Hopi Museum 187 Bac 192 Arizona State Museum sights 241-55 187 Hubbard Museum of the Missoula 124-6 American West 234-5 South Park 245-6 Autry Museum of the Moab 16, 205-7, 16 tourist information 264 American West 249 Huntington Library, Art mobile phones 20, 454 Collections & Botani- tours 256 Avila Adobe 243 Mojave National Preserve cal Gardens 255 travel to/from 264-5 Barney Ford Museum 89 285-6 Idaho State Historical travel within 265 Battleship Iowa 254 Mokelumne Hill 340 Museum 131 Venice 253, 260 Bay Area Discovery money 20, 21, 448-9, 452-3 Indian Pueblo Cultural Los Olivos 290 Museum 325-6 Center 214-15 Mono Lake 349 Lost Coast 335 Beat Museum 303 Japanese American Montana 121-30 Blair-Caldwell African National Museum 245 Monterey 295-7 American Museum 71 John Wesley Powell River M Monterey State Historic Blumenschein Home & History Museum 204 magazines 448 Park 295 Museum 227 Junípero Serra Museum margaritas 60-1 Monument Valley Navajo Bradbury Science 274 Tribal Park 17, 185, marijuana 413 17 Museum 225 La Brea Tar Pits & Marin County 325-6 Morro Bay State Park 292 Broad 244 Museum 250-1 Marin Headlands 325-6 Morro Rock 292 Buffalo Bill Center of the LA Plaza 243 Maritime National Histori- motorcycle travel 458-9, West 112 Los Alamos Historical cal Park 303 461-4 Burke Museum 362-3 Museum 225 marriage equality 425 mountain biking 50 Cable Car Museum 303 Madame Tussauds 147 measures 448 Bend 401 California Academy of Makah Museum 375 Mendocino 333 Buffalo Creek Mountain Sciences 315 Maritime Museum (San Mesa Verde National Park Bike Area 80 California Museum 338 Diego) 269 102-3 Crested Butte 97 California Science Maritime Museum (San Methow Valley 380 Flagstaff 173-4 Center 247 Francisco) 306 microbreweries 19, 61 Helena 124 Chapin Mesa Museum Martínez Hacienda 226-7 Accomplice Brewing Lander 108 102 Meow Wolf 218 Company 106 Leavenworth 379 Children’s Creativity Millicent Rogers Museum Angel City Brewery 261 Moab 16, 205, 16 Museum 315 226 Avery Brewery Company Monarch Crest Trail 94 Children’s Museum of Mingei International Phoenix 169 83, 19 Phoenix 163 Museum 271 Chinese Historical Soci- Black Shirt Brewing Portland 389 Mini Time Machine of ety of America 303 Museum of Miniatures Co 75-6 Santa Fe 219 Clark Planetarium 195 190 Bridger Brewing 122 Sawtooth National Clyfford Still Museum 71 Miracle of America Cloudburst Brewing 368 Recreation Area 134 Colorado Springs Pio- Museum 126 Culmination Brewing Whitefish 127 neers Museum 95 Mob Museum 148 393 Winter Park 88-9 Columbia River Maritime Moraine Park Museum Elysian Brewing Com- Mt Baker 379 pany 368 Museum 403 85 Mt Hood 398-400 Courthouse Museum MOXI 287 Mt Rainier National Park 235 Museum of Ancient 382 Denver Museum of Life 197 Map Pages 000 Mt Shasta 342 Nature & Science 71 Museum of Indian Arts & Photo Pages 000 Mt Shasta city 342 Discovery 157 Culture 221 473 Museum of Northern Titan Missile Museum Mesa Verde National Petroglyph National Arizona 173 192 Park 102-3 Monument 215 Museum of Pop Culture Tucson Children’s Mt Rainier National Puyé Cliff Dwellings 225 359 Museum 188 Park 382 San Ildefonso Pueblo Museum of the Rock- Turtle Bay Exploration North Cascades National 225 ies 121 Park 341 Park 380-1 Taos Pueblo 228

Museum of Tolerance USS Midway Museum Olympic National Park Valley of Fire State INDEX 251 269 372-3 Park 157 Museum of Western Film Utah Field House of Petrified Forest National Walnut Canyon 175 History 349 Natural History State Park 186 Natural Bridges National M-O Musical Instrument Park Museum 203 Rocky Mountain National Monument 209 Museum 162 Western Folklife Center Park 84-6 Navajo Nation 184-5 160 National Atomic Testing Saguaro National Park Navajo National Monument Museum 148 Wheelwright Museum of 11, 190-1, 11 184 the American Indian National Automobile Sequoia National Park Navajo people 429 Museum 157 218-19 347 Neah Bay 375 National Museum of White Sands Missile Test Yellowstone National Nevada 142-60 Wildlife Art 109 Center Museum 232 Park 9, 112-17, 114, New Mexico 213-36 Natural History Museum Wing Luke Museum 8-9, 137 Newberry National Volcanic of Los Angeles 248 of the Asian Pacific Yosemite National Park American Experience Monument 402 Natural History Museum 13, 13, 137 359 Newport 405 of Utah 195 Zion National Park 15, Wyoming Territorial Newspaper Rock State Neon Museum – Neon 211-12, 15, 48 Prison 106-7 Historic Monument 211 Boneyard 148 Native American people music 368, 432-3 Nevada State Railroad 427-30 newspapers 448 Museum 159 art 429-30 Nike Missile Site SF-88 325 New Mexico Farm & N etiquette 428 North Cascades 379-81 Ranch Heritage Napa Valley 12, 328-30, 12 food 59 North Umpqua River 409 Museum 232 national parks 24, 47, 451, history 414-15, 418-19 Northern Mountains New Mexico Museum of , see also parks (California) 341-3 Space History 234-6 136-7 museums 218-19, 221, & gardens, state parks, 375 Northern Mountains Northwest Museum of wildlife reserves (Rocky Mountains) Arts & Culture 381 Native American sites 84-8 Arches National Park 12, 24-5 Old Town San Diego 206, 23 Northwest Peninsula 375 State Historic Park Acoma Pueblo 217-18 274 Bryce Canyon National Aztec Ruins National Park 210-11 Oregon Historical Monument 230 O Society 387 Canyonlands National Bandelier National observatories Park 207-8, 137 Pacific Science Center Monument 225-6 Griffith Observatory 249 Capitol Reef National 364 Bears Ears National Kitt Peak National Park 209 Palace of the Governors Monument 201 Observatory 191 Channel Islands National & New Mexico History Canyon de Chelly Lowell Observatory 173 Park 288 Museum 221 National Monument Very Large Array 234 Crater Lake National 184-5 Park City Museum 200 Ojo Caliente 226 Park 402 Chaco Culture National Portland Children’s OK Corral 193 Museum 388 Death Valley National Historical Park 230 Park 286-7, Olympia 371-2 Reuben H Fleet Science 40 El Morro National Olympic National Park Center 272 Glacier National Park 19, Monument 218 372-3 San Diego Air & Space 128-30, 19 Gila Cliff Dwellings Na- Olympic Peninsula 372-5 Museum 273 Grand Canyon National tional Monument 233 opening hours 21, 453 San Diego Museum of Park 10, 176-83, 178- Hovenweep National Man 272 9, 10, 48 Monument 208-9 Orange County 267-9 San Diego Natural His- Grand Teton National Lava Beds National Orcas Island 378-9 tory Museum 272 Park 117-21, 119 Monument 343 Oregon 385-410 Santa Barbara Maritime Great Basin National Mesa Verde National Oregon Cascades 398-402 Museum 287-8 Park 160 Park 102, 12 Oregon Caves National Seymour Marine Discov- Great Sand Dunes Monument Valley 185 Monument & Preserve ery Center 297 National Park 104-5 Navajo National Monu- 409 Smokejumper Visitor Joshua Tree National ment 184 Oregon Dunes National Center 125 Park 283-4 Newspaper Rock State Recreation Area 406-7 Thomas Condon Paleon- Kings Canyon National Historic Monument Organ Pipe Cactus National tology Center 409 Park 347-8 211 Monument 191 Lassen Volcanic National Ouray 98-9 Park 343 474 P San Francisco Botanical pottery 429-30 Joshua Tree National Pacific Coast Highway 11, Garden 309 Powell St Cable Car Turna- Park 283 37-8, 11, 354-5 Sunnylands Center & round 300 Moab 205 Pacific Northwest 66, 353- Gardens 280-1 Prescott 170 Mt Rainier National 410, 354-5 Tom McCall Waterfront pronghorn antelope 443 Park 382 Park 385 accommodations 353 public holidays 454 Pinnacles National

INDEX INDEX Washington Park 388 Park 293 climate 353 Pueblo people 429 passports 457 Smith Rock State Park culture 424-5 Patagonia-Sonoita Creek 400-1 food 57, 353 Preserve 192 R Yosemite National Park P-S geology 440-1 Petrified Forest National radio 448 345

highlights 354-5 Park 186 railways Rocky Mountain National itineraries 356 Petroglyph National Durango & Silverton Nar- Park 14, 84-6, 14 travel seasons 353 Monument 215 row Gauge Railroad Rocky Mountains 66, 68- travel to/from 357 Pfeiffer Big Sur State 103, 25 135, 72-3 travel within 357 Park 293 Grand Canyon Railway accommodations 68 Palm Springs 280-3 Phoenix 161-9, 166-7 176 climate 68 Paradise Valley 122-3 phone cards 454 Mt Hood Railroad 398 culture 425 paragliding 109 photography 452, 453 Red Rock State Park 171 food 68 Park City 198-203 Pike Place Market 358, 13 Red Rocks Park & Amphi- highlights 72-3 theatre 79 parks & gardens, see Pinnacles National Park itineraries 74 religion 413, 426 also national parks, 293 travel seasons 68 state parks, wildlife Reno 156-9 Pioneer Square 366 travel to/from 69-70 reserves reptiles 441 Pioneertown 282 travel within 69-70 Alamo Square Park Rhyolite 286 planning Roswell 236 308-9 Riordan Mansion State calendar of events 26-9 Route 66 18, 35-7, 188, Alton Baker Park 396 Historic Park 173 18 children 62-4 Ruidoso 234-5 Audrey Headframe road trips 35-43, 36 Park 170 itineraries 30-4 Russian River Valley 331-2 travel seasons 26-9 Apache Trail 43 Bartholomew Park 330 Arizona 170 Boise River Float 131 Western USA basics 20-1 plants 440 Beartooth Highway S Boise River Greenbelt 39-41, 113 Sacramento 338-9 131 Plymouth 340 Columbia River Highway safety 463 Point Lobos State Natural Chautauqua Park 81 43, 40 Reserve 294-5 Saguaro National Park 11, Confluence Park 70-1 Eastern Sierra Scenic 190-1, Point Reyes National 11 Crissy Field 306-7 Byway 43 Seashore 326 saguaros 441 Desert Botanical Garden Going-to-the-Sun Road Point Sur Historic Park 294 Salem 395-6 162 42, 128 politics 412-13, 424-5 Salida 94-5 Discovery Park 369 High Road to Taos 41-2 population 413, 426 Salmon River 74, 51 Dolores Park 307-8 Highway 12 41 Port Angeles 374-5 Salt Lake City 194-8 Forest Park 388 Highway 89/89A 38 Port Orford 407 accommodations 195-6 Garden of the Gods 95 Loneliest Road 43 Port Townsend 373-4 children 199 Golden Gate Park Million Dollar Highway drinking & nightlife 197 309, 311 Portland 16, 385-95, 39, 98 emergencies 198 Griffith Park 248-9 386, 16 Mirror Lake Highway 203 entertainment 197-8 Huntington Botanical accommodations 390-1 Pacific Coast Highway 11, Gardens 255 activities 388-9 37-8, 11 food 196-7 Jack London State drinking & nightlife 393 Route 66 18, 35-7, medical services 198 Historic Park 330 emergencies 394 188, 18 shopping 198 Lithia Park 407 entertainment 393-4 Turquoise Trail 43 sights 194-5 Los Angeles Botanical festivals & events rock climbing 53-4 tourist information 198 Gardens 249-50 389-90 City of Rocks State Salt River Recreation 163 Olympic Sculpture food 391-2 Park 233 Salton Sea 285 Park 358 medical services 394 Colorado Mountain Salvation Mountain 285 Red Butte Garden 195 shopping 394 School 86 San Diego 269-80, 270 Riverfront Park 381 sights 385-8 Eldorado Canyon State accommodations 276-7 Rose Garden 247 tourist information Park 81 activities 275-6 394-5 Garden of the Gods 95 drinking & nightlife tours 389 Grand Teton National 278-9 Map Pages 000 travel to/from 395 Park 118 entertainment 279 Photo Pages 000 travel within 395 food 277-8 475 medical services 279 Seattle 13, 357-71, 360- Ski Santa Fe 219-20 Cathedral Gorge State sights 269-75 1, 13 Snowbird 199 Park 163 tourist information 279 accommodations 364-5 Solitude 199 Cimarron Canyon State travel to/from 279-80 activities 363 Squaw Valley USA 352 Park 231 travel within 280 children 364 Steamboat Mountain City of Rocks State Park 233 San Francisco 9, 299-325, drinking & nightlife Resort 87

Crystal Cove State INDEX 272-3, 274, 301, 302, 367-8 Sugar Bowl 352 Park 268 304-5, 9 emergencies 370 Sun Valley Resort 133 Dead Horse Point State accommodations 314-16 entertainment 369 Sundance Resort 205 Park 208 activities 311 festivals & events 364 S-S Taos 227-8 Deception Pass State Castro, the 307-8, 316, medical services 370 Telluride 99 Park 375 319-20, 308 shopping 370 Vail 90 Ecola State Park 404 children 315 sights 358-63 Whitefish 127 Eldorado Canyon State Chinatown 300-3, 317-19 tourist information 370 Winter Park 88-9 Park 81 Civic Center 300, 314-15, tours 363-4 Slide Rock State Park 171 Emerald Bay State 316-17 travel to/from 370-1 Smith Rock State Park Park 352 drinking & nightlife travel within 371 400-1 Fort Stevens State Park 320-2 Sebastopol 331 snowshoeing 52, see also 403 Embarcadero 299-300, Sedona 171-2 cross-country skiing Fort Worden State Park 314-15, 316 senior travelers 448-9 Solvang 290 373-4 entertainment 322-3 Sequoia National Park 347 Sonoma Coast State Golden Gate Canyon festivals & events 311-14 Park 333 State Park 80 Shasta Dam 341 Fisherman’s Wharf Sonoma Valley 12, 330-1, Humboldt Redwoods 303-6 Shiprock 230 State Park 335 Sierra Nevada 343-52 12 food 316-20 South Cascades 382-3 Humbug Mountain State Silver City 233 Park 407 gay & lesbian travelers Southwest 66, 140-236, 321 Silverton 101-2 142-3 Jedediah Smith Red- Sisters 400 woods State Park 337 Haight, the 308-9, 316, accommodations 140 320 skiing & snowboarding Jerome State Historic climate 140 itineraries 300 18, 50-3, 51, see also Park 170 culture 425-6 medical services 324 cross-country skiing Julia Pfeiffer Burns State food 57-9, 140 Mission, the 307-8, 316, Alta 199 Park 293 319-20 Arizona Snowbowl 174 geology 438-40 Kartchner Caverns State highlights 142-3 North Beach 303, 315, Aspen 92, 18 Park 192 317-19 Big Sky Resort 122-3 itineraries 141 Lake Chelan State Park 380 Presidio 315-16, 319 Breckenridge 89-90 travel seasons 140 Lime Kiln Point State Richmond 310 Bridger Bowl Ski Area travel to/from 141-2 Park 377 shopping 323-4 121 travel within 141-2 Living Desert State Brighton 199 spas, see hot springs sights 299-311 Park 236 Canyons Village at Park & spas SoMa 314-15, 316 Malibu Creek State City 200 Space Needle 359 tourist information 324 Park 251 Crested Butte 97 Spokane 381-2 tours 311 Moran State Park 378 Deer Valley 200 sports 426 travel to/from 324-5 Morro Bay State Park Springdale 212-13 travel within 325 Heavenly 351 292 Standish-Hickey State Union Square 300, 314- Hurricane Ridge Ski & Mt Tamalpais State Recreation Area 335 15, 316-17 Snowboard Area 373 Park 326 Stanley 134-5 walking tour 318 Jackson Hole 109 Old Town San Diego state parks 451, see San Ildefonso Pueblo 225 Mammoth Mountain 349 State Historic Park Mt Bachelor Ski Resort also national parks, 274 San Juan Islands 14, parks & gardens, 401 Oliver Lee State Park 377-9, 14 wildlife reserves Mt Baker 379 234 San Luis Obispo 290-1 Andrew Molera State Patrick’s Point State Sand Mountain Recreation Mt Hood 399 Park 294 Park 336 Area 160 Northstar California 352 Antelope Island State Pfeiffer Big Sur State Santa Barbara 287-9 Park City Mountain Park 202 Park 293 Santa Clara Pueblo 225 Resort 201 Anza-Borrego Desert Point Lobos State Natu- Purgatory 103 State Park 284-5 Santa Cruz 297-9 ral Reserve 294-5 Schweitzer Mountain Cape Blanco State Santa Fe 12, 218-25, Point Sur Historic Park Resort 135 Park 407 222-3, 12 294 Silverton 101 Castle Crags State Ski Apache 235 Park 342 476 state parks continued Telluride Bluegrass Festival W Monterey 295-6 Prairie Creek Redwoods 27, 99-100 walking, see hiking National Elk Refuge 109 State Park 337 time 20 walking tours 318 Point Lobos State Natu- Red Rock State Park 171 tipping 453 Walla Walla 384-5 ral Reserve 294-5 Richardson Grove State toilets 454 Wallowa Mountains Area Point Piedras Blancas Park 335 Tombstone 192-3 410 292-3

INDEX INDEX Salt Point State Park 333 Torrey 209 Walnut Canyon 175 San Francisco 307 Sinks Canyon State Torrey Pines State Natural Wasatch Mountains 198- Yellowstone National Park 108 Park 113 Reserve 275 203, 51 Slide Rock State Park 171 Willamette Valley 395-7 S-Z tourist information 455 Washington 357-85 Smith Rock State Park train travel 459, 464 weather 20, 26-9 Williams 176 400-1 travel to/from Western weaving 430 windsurfing Sonoma Coast State USA 457-60 Hood River 398 Park 333 websites, see internet travel within Western USA resources wine 60 Staunton State Park 80 460-4 weights 448 wine regions 12, 23, 60 Topanga Canyon State traveler’s checks 453 Healdsburg 332 Park 255 whale-watching 52, 295-6, trekking, see hiking see also wildlife-watch- Napa Valley 328-30 Torrey Pines State Natu- Trinidad 336 ing ral Reserve 275 Paso Robles 292 Truckee 352 Whidbey Island 375-6 Valley of Fire State Russian River Valley Park 157 Trump, Donald 423 Whiskeytown National 331-2 Recreation Area 341 Steamboat Springs 87-8 Truth or Consequences 231 Santa Maria Valley 290 Tucson 186-90 White Sands National Santa Ynez Valley 290 Steens Mountain 410 Monument 233-4 Steinbeck, John 431 Tulelake 343 Sonoma Valley 330-1 white-water rafting 46, 51 Sun Valley 132-4 TV 422, 434-5, 448 Verde Valley 173 Arkansas River 98 Sundance Film Festival Walla Walla 384-5, 58 Bluff 208 26, 201 Winter Park 88-9 U Colorado River 185 Sundial Bridge 341 Ukiah 335 women travelers 456 Durango 103 Sunset Crater Volcano universities Wyoming 105-21 Green River 204-5 National Monument 177 Arizona State Univer- John Day River 409 surfing 46, 139 sity 163 Middle Fork of the Y Los Angeles 256 Humboldt State Univer- Salmon 134 Yachats 405-6 San Diego 276 sity 336 Moab 205 Yakima 383-4 University of California, Santa Cruz 297-8 Yellowstone National Park Berkeley 327 Salida 94 Santa Cruz Surfing 9, 112-17, 114, 8-9, 137 University of Oregon 396 Santa Fe 219 Museum 297 Yosemite National Park 13, University of Washing- Snake River 109-10, 410 Surfrider Beach 256 343-6, 13, 137 Sutter Creek 340 ton 362 Steamboat Springs 87 swimming USS Midway Museum 269 Taos 227-8 Auburn State Recreation Utah 193-213 Vernal 203 Z Area 340 Whitefish 127-8 Zion National Park 15, 211- 12, , Los Angeles 256 wildlife reserves, see 15 48 V also national parks, ziplining 147 Slide Rock State Park 171 vacations 454 parks & gardens, state zoos Standish-Hickey State Vail 90-2 parks Recreation Area 335 Living Desert Zoo & Valley of Fire State Park Bosque del Apache Gardens 281 Zephyr Cove 351 157 National Wildlife Los Angeles Zoo 249-50 vegetarian & vegan travel- Refuge 231 Oregon Zoo 388 ers 59-60 World Center for Birds of T Reid Park Zoo 187 Vernal 203 Prey 131 Taos 12, 226-30 San Diego Zoo 271 Very Large Array 234 wildlife-watching Taos Pueblo 228 Woodland Park Zoo 364 taxis 464 Virginia City 159-60 Antelope Island State Park 202 Zuni Pueblo 218 telephone services 454 visas 20, 455-6 Grand Teton National Telluride 99-101 Volcano 340 Park 118

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Eating Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Parking Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Cafe Taxi Park/Forest Train station/Railway Entertainment Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Becky Ohlsen Pacific Northwest Becky is a freelance writer, editor and critic based in Portland, Oregon. She writes guidebooks and travel stories about Scandinavia, Portland and elsewhere for Lonely Planet. When she’s not covering ground for Lonely Planet, Becky is working on a book about motorcycles and the paradoxical appeal of risk.

Christopher Pitts Central Colorado, New Mexico Chris’s first expedition in life ended in failure when he tried to dig from Pennsylvania to China at the age of six. He went on to study Chinese in university, living for several years in China. He spent more than a decade in Paris with his wife and two children before the lure of Colorado’s sunny skies and outdoor adventure proved too great to resist.

Liza Prado Colorado, Liza has been a travel writer since 2003, when she made a move from corporate lawyering to travel writing. She’s written dozens of guidebooks and articles to destinations throughout the Americas. She lives very happily in Denver, Colorado, with her husband and fellow writer, Gary Chandler, and their two kids.

Josephine Quintero California’s North Coast & Redwoods Josephine first got her taste of not-so- serious travel when she slung a guitar on her back and traveled in Europe in the early ’70s, along the way working on a kibbutz in Israel and meeting her husband. She primarily covers Spain and Italy for Lonely Planet.

Andrea Schulte-Peevers The Deserts Born and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, Andrea has traveled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has earned her living as a professional travel writer for more than two decades and authored or contributed to nearly 100 Lonely Planet titles.

Helena Smith Lake Tahoe, Gold Country Helena is an award-winning writer and photographer covering travel, outdoors and food. Helena is from Scotland but was partly brought up in Malawi, so Africa always feels like home. She also enjoys living in multicultural Hackney and wrote, photographed and published Inside Hackney.

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Benedict Walker Nevada Berlin-based Ben grew up in the ‘burbs of Australia, spending weekends and long summers by the beach, and while he’s magnetically drawn to big mountains, beach life is in his blood. Ben thinks that the best thing about travel isn’t as much about where you go as who you meet: living vicariously through the stories of kind strangers really adds to one’s own experience.

Clifton Wilkinson Santa Barbara County Clifton has been in love with California since first visiting in 1995. Christmases spent near Sacramento, bike rides across the Golden Gate Bridge and hiking in Yosemite National Park have all reinforced Clifton’s opinion that the Golden State is the best state in the whole US, and Santa Barbara is one of its most beautiful corners. Having worked for Lonely Planet for more than 11 years, he’s now based in the London office, but hoping for the call back to CA’s Sideways country and the chance to show that Merlot isn’t all that bad. Sara Benson Marin County & the Bay Area, Coastal California The author of more than 70 travel and non-fiction books, Sara’s writing has featured in national and international newspapers and magazines, including numerous Lonely Planet titles, CNN and Na- tional Geographic Adventure, as well as on popular travel websites such as Jetsetter.

Alison Bing San Francisco Over 10 guidebooks and 20 years in San Francisco, author Alison Bing has spent more time on Alcatraz than some inmates, become an aficionado of drag and burritos, and willfully ignored Muni signs warning that safety requires avoiding unnecessary conversation.

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Ashley Harrell Napa & Sonoma Wine Country, Northern California After studying journalism and working as a reporter, Ashley traveled widely and moved often, from a tiny NYC apartment to a vast California ranch to a jungle cabin in Costa Rica, where she start- ed writing for Lonely Planet. From there her travels have only become more exotic.

Carolyn McCarthy Colorado Specializing in travel, culture and adventure in the Americas, Carolyn has has contributed to forty guidebooks and anthologies for Lonely Planet, and written or National Geographic, Outside, BBC Magazine, Sierra Magazine, Bos- ton Globe and other publications. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Hugh McNaughtan Curator, Arizona A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applications for visa applications and turned his love of travel into a full-time thing. He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field…

Brett Atkinson California’s Central Coast Based in New Zealand, but frequently on the road for Lonely Planet, Brett’s a full-time travel and food writer specialising in adventure travel, unusual destinations, and surprising angles on more well-known destinations. Craft beer and street food are Brett’s favorite reasons to explore places.

Loren Bell Rocky Mountains, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming When Loren first backpacked through Europe, he was in the backpack. That memorable experience corrupted his six-month-old brain, ensuring he would never be happy sitting still. When he’s not demystifying destinations for Lonely Planet, Loren writes about science and conservation news.

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