INDIAN OCEAN SRI LANKA DESTINATIONS t’s not India ‘lite’, you 1983 and 2009 pitted the Tamil is Bentota, where post-tsunami “Iknow,” a Sri Lankan friend Tigers against the national army, renovations have transformed told me. “And we have egg and 2004’s tsunami proved Sri Lanka packs it the once-tired Taj into Vivanta by hoppers.” As country overviews catastrophic. Post-war and Taj, and boutique hotels such as go, it was succinct, if random. post-tsunami efforts have gone a in – tea plantations, Saman Villas are thriving. The top You can’t deny certain cultural long way to restoring Sri Lanka’s national parks, pick is Avani Bentota, designed similarities between this island fortunes and although British ancient ruins and by Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey nation – known as Ceylon until Airways terminated flights in colonial towns Bawa in his signature ‘tropical independence in 1948 – and its 2015, Sri Lankan Airlines invested modernism’ style, while the neighbour across the water; in their stock, and domestic original hippy town Hikkaduwa deliciously spiced curries, cricket carriers Cinnamon Air and counts luxurious boutique Aditya culture, tea obsession, Ayurvedic Helitours are growing. among its options. spas, tuk-tuks and temples, mixed an intriguing city with its Pettah Sri Lanka is in the midst with colonial-era architecture from w COLOMBO: A CAPITAL bazaar, fort and excellent cotton w SOUTH WEST: HERITAGE A new the presence of the Portuguese, IDEA and jewellery stores. TRAILS of a luxury revival, Dutch and British. Sri Lanka packs it in – tea North of Colombo and six This coastline is gloriously Both multicultural and plantations, national parks, miles from the airport, Negombo interrupted by the Unesco World writes Meera Dattani multi-ethnic, here the majority ancient ruins and colonial towns beach has a handy location, but Heritage Site and 400-year- dawn Sinhalese are predominantly sit in an area about the size of farther up the coast is the more old Dutch fort of Galle, where Buddhist, celebrating Poya full- Ireland. Two separate monsoon impressive Kalpitiya peninsula, atmospheric streets are lined moon days, with Hindu Tamils, zones ensure year-round beach which offers excellent dolphin with cafes and boutique shops. Muslims from Sri Lanka’s trading stints – summer on the east spotting, kitesurfing and Wilpattu Galle’s leading hotel is Aman hub days and indigenous hunter- coast, winter on the west – along National Forest. Top picks include Resorts’ Amangalla, a heritage gatherer Veddahs adding to the its 1,000-mile coastline, and many boutique property Bethany property once popular with melting pot. are a comfortable one-to-three- 101 and beachfront Dutch Bay passengers on P&O steamers, Sri Lanka hasn’t had it easy. hour drive from the international Resorts. and still retaining original A brutal civil war between airport and capital of Colombo, South of Colombo, the big hitter antiques and serving tea ceylon / parker tom PICTURE: 58 travelweekly.co.uk 25 February 2016 25 February 2016 travelweekly.co.uk 59 DESTINATIONS SRI LANKA INDIAN OCEAN LEFT: Amangalla RIghT: The Fortress, Galle BELOW: Tri Lanka afternoon tea on the veranda. migratory ones. Accommodation stay at the luxury bungalows at Excellent, less pricey options in this area includes the Ceylon Tea Trails, Sri Lanka’s first include Tamarind Hill on the Sri Lanka’s classic hill comfortable Grand Udawalawe Relais & Chateaux resort, which outskirts and The Fortress, Safari Resort or Master Campers’ added a fifth bungalow earlier a half-hour drive away. country unfolds with tented camp. this month. Excellent alternatives South and east of Galle, the a landscape of tea At Yala, Sri Lanka’s oldest include Stafford Bungalow beaches offer more surfing, estates, waterfalls and national park, leopard sightings near Nuwara Eliya and Jetwing wreck-diving and snorkelling. colonial-era hotels are a common occurrence, Warwick Gardens. Dilmah Tea’s Relais & Chateaux and there is well-appointed The winding roads of the resort Cape Weligama is the accommodation at wildlife resort high tea country make the low premier option on the headland Cinnamon Wild Yala or Uga tea country a better option for with its standalone villas and Escapes’ latest property, Chena some. Suggest Estate House at pools, and sweeping sea views. choice of terrace or plunge pool. Huts, which opened in December. Rosyth near the town of Kegalle, Alternatives include Lantern At Tangalle, suggest Aman a former colonial tea planter’s Hotel and Casa Mirissa at whale- Resorts’ Amanwella, another w INTERIOR: TEA TIME bungalow transformed into a watching hub Mirissa, but the quiet hideaway with a pretty As you head to the central boutique hotel with a pool and latest newcomer to nearby Lake private beach, or eco-friendly province, Sri Lanka’s classic hill spa, all set on a working tea Koggala is the boutique luxury resort Buckingham Place. country unfolds with a landscape and rubber plantation. Food is sustainable resort Tri Lanka, From here, many continue on of tea estates, waterfalls and as revered as tea, with cooking which opened last November. Its to Sri Lanka’s national parks, to colonial-era hotels. The plains lessons from the resident chef 11 standalone suites are arranged trek in Sinharaja Forest Reserve or patanas end and the misty and dishes such as egg hoppers in a spiral pattern, reflecting or see Udawalawe’s elephants, mountains begin with Horton (fermented rice-flour pancakes the mathematical golden ratio sloth bears, giant squirrels and Plains National Park’s cloud with a fried egg), string hoppers commonly found in nature, and crocodiles. For birdwatchers, forests, Adam’s Peak and (rice noodles), buffalo curd with offer either sunrise or sunset Sri Lanka has more than 230 Knuckles mountain range. The honey, and custard pudding views, private gardens and a resident bird species and 500 ultimate treat is a high-altitude watalappan. 60 travelweekly.co.uk 25 February 2016 DESTINATIONS SRI LANKA INDIAN OCEAN Other low tea country options are around a 150-year-old mansion house, Madulkelle Tea and Eco Lodge and with luxury villas, paddy fields, its own SAMPLE boutique Stone House hotel. From Leave time to barter with solar farm and vegetable garden. here, it’s easy to visit the Unesco-listed PRODUCT city of Kandy, the start of the Cultural locals at roadside stalls, w EAST: ON THE UP Triangle, with its Botanical Gardens, stop for tea, or feast on The Cultural Triangle connects well to Temple of the Tooth and summertime patties and samosas at the east coast. This arid region had Kandy Esala Perahera festival with ‘short eat’ shops its heyday in the 1970s and 1980s, but The Travel processions of elephants, drummers the hotels of Passikudah and Kalkudah Gallery offers and dancers. Pinnawala Elephant were abandoned and blown up a 14-night tour Orphanage and Millennium Elephant during the civil war, and it was further from £2,020 in Foundation are also popular, although traumatised by the tsunami, which June, staying B&B subject to some debate from a wildlife monastery, and in Polonnaruwa, the rushed inland along its flat terrain. at Ulagalla in the tourism perspective so it’s worth preserved ruins and bathing ponds are Now it’s on the map again. Colourful Cultural Triangle; giving clients all the information and particularly evocative. fishing boats gather at one end and Jungle Beach, Uga letting them decide for themselves. At Dambulla, the stairways and sunseekers have returned to properties Bay and Gal Oya panoramic views culminate in some such as Uga Escapes’ luxury Uga Lodge on the east w CULTURAL TRIANGLE: INNER impressive Buddhist cave temples, but Bay and Amaya Beach Resort. Other coast; and half- PEACE the big ticket is Sigiriya for its palace, hotspots include Uga Escapes’ Jungle board at Estate The Cultural Triangle takes full shape frescoes and water gardens, and those Beach resort near Trincomalee, surfing House at Rosyth. north of here, home to five Unesco who reach its summit are especially paradise Arugam Bay, Batticaloa town Activities include World Heritage Sites: Dambulla’s well rewarded. and Gal Oya National Park. a jeep safari, cave temples, the ancient capitals Summer visitors often add Minneriya As compact as Sri Lanka is, Sigiriya visit, of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and National Park too, where ‘The discourage clients from a pack-it-all-in walk with a local Kandy, and rock fortress Sigiriya. Gathering’ sees elephant herds flock to approach. Fuelled by a fear of missing Veddah chief, Most visitors head to either its reservoirs in huge numbers. out, this results in one-night stays Anuradhapura Anuradhapura or Polonnaruwa, where Accommodation in the Cultural and long drives, leaving no time to cycling tour, guided cycling tours are a particularly Triangle includes the excellent-value barter with friendly locals at roadside cooking class and good way to enjoy the sights. In the Hotel Sigiriya, Aliya Resort & Spa and handicraft stalls, stop for tea, or feast tea factory visit. monastic city of Anuradhapura, look the picturesque Jetwing Vil Uyuna. on patties and samosas at ‘short eat’ out for huge dome-shaped dagobas Particularly noteworthy is Uga Escapes’ shops. In this beguiling island nation, the A 14-night trip and the peaceful Abhayagiriya Ulagalla, a boutique property centred journey becomes part of the holiday. with The Travel Gallery in November with stays at several luxury properties including Bethany 101 near Puttalam, Madukele near Kandy, Stafford LEFT: Polonnaruwa Bungalow near BELOW: Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage Nuwara Eliya, Grand Udawalawe Safari Resort, and Amangalla in Galle, starts at £2,875. Excursions include whale watching, jeep safaris, trips to Sigiriya and Dambulla. Both include tourism flights and a driver-guide. lanka travel-gallery. sri : S co.uk PICTURE 62 travelweekly.co.uk 25 February 2016.