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Home , Aleksanterinkatu, Alexander Theatre, Alppiharju, Alppila, Carl Ludvig Engel, Casino Helsinki

Get to know the city on foot! Clear maps with description of the attraction

See on foot 7 walking routes around town

1 See Helsinki on foot 7 walking routes around town 6 Throughout its 450-year history, Helsinki has that allow you to discover historical and contemporary Helsinki with plenty to see along the way: architecture 3 swung between the currents of Eastern and Western influences. The colourful layers of the old and new, museums and exhibitions, large depart- past and the impact of different periods can be ment stores and tiny specialist boutiques, monuments seen in the city’s architecture, culinary culture and sculptures, and much more. The routes pass through and event offerings. Today Helsinki is a modern leafy parks to vantage points for taking in the city’s European city of culture that is famous especial- street life or admiring the beautiful seascape. Helsinki’s ly for its design and high technology. Music and historical sights serve as reminders of events that have fashion have also put ’s capital city on the influenced the entire course of Finnish history. world map. Traffic in Helsinki is still relatively uncongested, allow- Helsinki has witnessed many changes since it was found- ing you to stroll peacefully even through the city cen- ed by Swedish King Gustavus Vasa at the mouth of the tre. Walk leisurely through the park around Töölönlahti River in 1550. The centre of Helsinki was moved Bay, or travel back in time to the former working class to its current location by the sea around a hundred years district of . Discover the treasures in later in the mid 17th century. In the early 18th century the , or make a voyage out to the 2 Kingdom of , to whom Finland belonged, lost all Maritime Fortress – the ferry crossing from the Market its fortifications along its eastern border to , al- Square takes just 15 minutes. lowing the Russian fleet practically unimpeded access 1 5,5 km throughout the . In response to this situation, The Helsinki City Tourist & Convention Bureau’s Tourist Sweden began construction of a major maritime fortress Information provides free information about the city, 2 6,0 km off the coast of Helsinki in 1748. In 1809 Finland never- sights, events and services. Our five-star Tourist 4 3 5,4 km theless became an autonomous grand duchy under the Information also offers you a range of brochures and 1 Russian Tsar with Helsinki as its new capital, and since maps in several languages. Come and ask us for advice! 4 3,6 km 1917 Helsinki has been the capital of the independent 5 7,0 km Republic of Finland. Pohjoisesplanadi 19, tel. +358 (0)9 3101 3300 Open 2.5-30.9: Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, 6 5,5 km Helsinki is an easy city to explore, as most sights are Sat-Sun 9am-6pm 7 2,5 km Open 1.10-1.5: Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, situated within convenient walking distance of the city Sat-Sun 10am-4pm centre. In this brochure we present seven walking routes www.visithelsinki.fi Walking routes 5 1 Senate Square and neighbouring districts Tip! Discover the historical city centre...... 4 More information Central Railway Station and Töölönlahti Bay about the architects mentioned in the text 2 Relax in the green heart of the city ...... 10 can be found at the Töölö and districts back of the brochure. 3 Admire the Functionalist and Classicist architecture ...... 14 Esplanade, Bulevardi and 7 4 Feel the pulse of the commercial district...... 18 Market Square, Park and 5 Smell the sea breeze...... 22 0 1 km 2 km 6 Kallio, and Merihaka districts © City Survey, Helsinki 001/2007 Explore the former working class districts...... 26 Suomenlinna Maritime Fortress 7 Experience this World Heritage Site and lively city district...... 30 2 3 1 Senate Square and neighbouring districts 45 43

44 42 Discover the historical city one houses a chapel. Engel’s original design was 46 altered in other respects, too: for twenty years a centre line of columns stood where the main steps now rise. Some of these columns now stand in front of 41 We begin our tour from the Senate Square. Already the Main Guard House. The church was originally 40 in the 17th century, a town square, town hall, church named after the patron saint of trade and seafar- and were located where the Senate Square ing and Tsar Nicholas I. The tsar contributed to the 47 can be found today. The area around the town square exterior appearance of the by commis- began to be rebuilt in 1721 following the destruction sioning the zinc statues of the apostles by four of the entire town during the Great Northern War. German sculptors for the roof. He also donated a 39 Merchants began building residential buildings along- painting by German-Russian artist T. K. von Neff 48 side the square. The most important building project of to hang above the altar. The otherwise sparse 49 the 18th century was the Viapori (later Suomenlinna) interior of the cathedral also features statues of 51 Maritime Fortress, construction of which began in Luther and Melanchton, as well as 50 53 54 1748 (see page 33 for walking tour of Suomenlinna). (c. 1510-1557), father of the Finnish Reformation As a result of the war of 1808-1809 between and Finnish literature. When Helsinki became a Sweden and Russia, Finland was ceded by Sweden diocese in 1959, St. Nicholas’ Church was renamed 56 57 and annexed to the Russian Empire as an autono- Tuomiokirkko in Finnish. In addition to serving its 52 55 mous grand duchy, with Helsinki as its capital from own congregation, hosts major 1812 onwards. A new town plan was drawn up by state and university events, while exhibitions and 59 58 Johan Albrecht Ehrenström (1762-1847), a native of concerts are held in the vaulted crypt. Each year 1 Helsinki and an army officer who served for a period as the people of Helsinki gather in front of the ca- 4 5 38 secretary to Sweden’s King Gustavus III in . thedral to see in the New Year. The steps afford a Before returning to Finland he travelled round Europe 25 superb view over the roofs to the South Harbour 2 studying its major cities. The architect chosen to im- and are a popular place for residents to sit and soak 6 plement the town plan was (1778- up the sun. 3 13 37 1840), a native of who had previously worked 16 24 in Reval () and St. Petersburg. A plaque by Felix On the left when looking down the cathe- 7 10 11 12 14 Nylund commemorating Ehrenström and Engel can dral steps is the Government Palace, one 9 be found in the wall of Helsinki University Library. of Engel’s greatest achievements. The part of the Engel designed the new public buildings in splendid 8 17 building bordering on the square was completed 15 22 Neoclassical style befitting Helsinki’s new position as in 1822 to house the Imperial Senate, the autono- 18 Finland’s capital. The wooden Ulrika Eleonora Church mous grand duchy’s highest administrative office. 36 29 and the original town hall were pulled down to make It is still the seat of the today, 19 28 26 way for the new Senate Square. The site of the church and the Prime Minister has his office on the sec- 23 20 is marked on the cobblestones of the present square. ond floor. Above the main entrance, in the shadow 35 27 Government, municipal, church and academic institu- of the columns, is one of Finland’s most beautiful tions were built around the square. Empire-style halls, the Throne Room, nowadays 21 the President’s Room where the President ratifies 34 30 Finland’s laws. The Government Palace is closed to the public. The oldest public clock in Finland, the handwork of master clockmaker Jaakko Juhonpoika 33 Könni, can be found at one end of the building. 32 On the right is another famous design by Engel: the main university building, Helsinki Cathedral, completed in 1852 which was completed in 1832. Founded in 1640 and formerly known as St. Nicholas’ as the Royal Academy of (later the Imperial Church, overlooks the square. Construction began Academy of Turku), the university was trans- in 1830 according to Engel’s design and continued ferred to Helsinki in 1828 and renamed Imperial following his death in 1840 under Ernst Lohrmann, Alexander University of Finland. In 1919 it became who added the four small towers around the main the . The designs and propor- 31 dome and the two side pavilions. The west pa- tions of the Government Palace are repeated in the vilion houses the church bells, while the eastern university’s façade. Combined with the cathedral 4 500m 5 © City Survey, Helsinki 001/2007 1 Senate Square and neighbouring districts

and the buildings along the southern side of the composition, which symbolises the turning point The house at Aleksanterinkatu 14 that is the Russian impact on Finnish history. The cathedral park. Some of Helsinki’s finest Jugend archi- the Finnish Officers Union and houses a restau- square, the university and Government Palace form between work and leisure, adds a special element 12 pained a dark reddish-brown dates from is dedicated to the Assumption of Mary. Beside the tecture can be found along Luotsikatu. rant with cabinets decorated with historic military one of the most cohesive examples of Neoclassical to the urban milieu and beckons city residents to the 1820s and nowadays serves as the official Evangelical Lutheran Church of Finland, the Finnish paintings and artefacts. architecture in Europe. The university building was the space at the heart of Helsinki. residence of the Mayor of Helsinki. In fact, few Orthodox Church is one of the two official national This residential building with its ornate expanded in 1937 to fill the entire block (architect: other residents live along this street. churches in Finland; its members account for just over 18 towers was designed by legendary archi- When the sea is not frozen almost the entire J. S. Sirén). Much of the old university, including The south side of the square is lined by 1 percent of the population. was tect trio of Gesellius-Lindgren-Saarinen and 25 Finnish fleet of icebreakers can be admired the main hall and its art treasures, was destroyed by 7 merchant houses built in the 18th century On the left side of Aleksanterinkatu across designed by Russian architect Alexey Gornostaev and completed in 1897. The hall on the ground floor from the pier. The newest multipurpose icebreakers aerial bombing in 1944. The main hall was subse- that have been restored and now house municipal 13 the small park is the House of Nobility completed in 1868. The ornate vaults are supported was refurbished in Jugend style in the 1970s. are chartered during the open-water season, mainly quently reconstructed and opened again in 1948. offices. The ground floor of these houses still fea- designed by Georg Theodore Chiewitz in the Neo- by four giant granite columns. The painting behind the to serve oil and gas fields in the North Sea. Many ice- tures small boutiques, cafés and as in Gothic style and completed in 1862. Originally and altar is the work of a Russian artist. The cathedral is Another residential building with towers is breakers have been built at the Hietalahti shipyards Porthania is a more modern campus build- the olden days, as well as a cinema. The Kiseleff still to this day a meeting place for the Finnish no- open to the public. 19 situated on the corner of Satamakatu and on the western side of town. Behind the icebreakers is 4 ing that was designed by Aarne Ervi (1910- House on the corner of Aleksanterinkatu and bility, it is now also used to host a variety of public Kruunuvuorenkatu and was designed by Selim A. the island of , home to the Helsinki Zoo. 1977). The sculpture in front of the building was Unionkatu has been transformed into a bazaar events, including chamber concerts. The coats-of- Katajanokka was once Finland’s busi- Lindqvist and completed in 1903. The name of the designed by Eduardo Chillida (1924-2002) and is of boutiques. The Stockmann’s shop was located arms of all the Finnish noble families hang on the est port before container operations building Aeolus refers to the Greek god of the winds. entitled Helsinki 1992. here from the 1880s to 1930, when the new de- walls of the fine banqueting hall. were transferred to Helsinki’s Western partment store building was completed at the oth- Harbour (Länsisatama) and Sompasaari Island. Jugend architecture was greatly inspired by Helsinki University Library, which also er end of Aleksanterinkatu. The Bock House was The original design of the Main Guard With the exception of passenger traffic, all har- 20 nature. A fine example of this is the resi- 5 houses the National Library of Finland, dates originally built in the 1700s and modified accord- 14 House was by Engel, but it was subse- bour operations will move out of the centre of dential building on Kruunuvuorenkatu that from 1844 and is considered one of Engel’s most ing to Engel’s design in 1816-1818, after which it quently altered considerably. The building was Helsinki in the near future to Vuosaari in Eastern depicts an owl, a fox and a squirrel. Continue down the steps and turn beautiful designs. The rooms inside represent argu- served as the Town Hall. The house has now been completed in 1843 in connection with the Imperial Helsinki. Passenger ferries depart daily from right through the gate. ably the most splendid example of non-ecclesiastic fully restored to how it was in the early 19th century Palace across the street (today the Presidential Katajanokka to Stockholm and Tallinn. From Kruunuvuorenkatu begins the former Finnish interior architecture, as well as one of the and is used by the city to host of- Palace). Nowadays the Main Guard House is 21 warehouse area that served the harbour and most beautiful interiors in Helsinki open to the pub- ficial functions. A new City Council manned by the Helsinki Garrison. major wholesalers. Today many of the buildings Since 1987 the Ministry for Foreign lic. The main building designed by Engel is, however, Chamber was completed in the cen- have been refurbished and converted into offices. 26 Affairs of Finland has been housed in the only a small part of the library. Books are also stored tral section of the block in 1988. Our walk continues over the short bridge historic Naval Barracks designed by C. L. Engel. in the semi-circular extension designed by Gustaf to the district of Katajanokka, which was Another residential building designed The oldest part dates back to the 1820s, while the Nyström, in the underground archives in the granite The house at Sofiankatu 4 originally a headland – the channel sepa- 22 by legendary architect trio Gesellius- east extension is completely new, albeit based on bedrock and outside Helsinki. A bronze bust of Tsar 8 was designed by Lars Sonck rating it from the mainland was dug in the 1840s. Lindgren-Saarinen is Eol, which was completed in Engel’s original design. The Naval Barracks reflect Alexander I, “Father of the University”, can be found and now serves as the main branch In terms of architecture Katajanokka is an inter- 1901. The exquisite doors and ornate staircases of clearly the influence St. Petersburg had on Engel; on the outside wall in the shade of a horse chestnut of the . In esting mix of the old and new: Neoclassicism, this building are particularly impressive. the design of the barracks was possibly based the tree – during the Russian period it presided over the addition to exhibition space, the National Romanticic and contemporary. Never- Admiralty in St. Petersburg. main hall of the university. building features offices and other work facilities. theless, Katajanokka is arguably most famous Completed two years after Eol in 1903, The Helsinki City Museum presents daily film clips for its Jugend or Art Nouveau architecture. The The redbrick Katajanokka Warehouses 23 Olofsborg is one of the most impor- The restored buildings include the former Returning to the Senate Square, in the about Helsinki in the adjacent Kino Engel cinema. majority of the buildings in this district were 16 date back to the 19th century and nowa- tant residential buildings designed by Gesellius, 27 Naval Barracks Hospital designed by 6 centre stands a statue of the popular Tsar The museum shop is located on the ground floor. built in the late 1800s and early 1900s. days house restaurants and offices. Helsinki’s Guest Lindgren and Saarinen. With its elaborate tow- A. F. Granstedt and completed in 1838. Between Alexander II (1818-1881) sculpted by Walter Harbour is situated along this stretch of waterfront. ers and lattice doorways, the building is a true the hospital and the barracks lies the ceremonial Runeberg in 1894. The tsar is surrounded by stat- 9 The Street Museum on Sofiankatu is 15 Overlooking Katajanokka is the Uspenski knight’s castle. Its name refers to Olavinlinna, one Artillery Square. ues representing Law (Lex), Peace (Pax), Light the only museum in Helsinki that is open Cathedral, the largest Orthodox cathedral in 17 This residential building designed by Lars of the great medieval castles in Finland. Although (Lux) and Work (Labor). The year 24 hours a day! The Street Museum presents the Western Europe. With its golden cupolas and redbrick Sonck features a plaque commemorating Katajanokka is a popular and pricey residential 28 Walking down the avenue lined by lindens 1863 is carved into the granite history of street building and furniture in Helsinki. façade, the cathedral is one of the clearest symbols of the place where legendary Finnish author Aleksis district these days, most of the in this and poplars, several restored warehouses base of the statue to mark the year Kivi (1834-1872) attended school. The school building have been converted into offices. can be seen on the right. The former barracks sta- when the tsar convened the Diet The Sederholm House was built in 1757 was run and classes held in the cottage of Johan bles and workshop now houses the Katajanokka of Finland, which began a period 10 by John Sederholm, a successful merchant Granberg, a former sailor, in the mid 1800s. At the Our walk continues to the end of Primary School. of national reforms. Each day at in his day. The oldest stone building in the city time Katajanokka featured many sailors’ cottages. Luotsikatu to Vyökatu, where we turn precisely 5.49pm the Sounds of centre, it now houses a branch of the Helsinki City The first stone buildings were not built until a left. The top of the stairs at the end The first residential buildings of the new Senate Square can be heard. This Museum. The exhibitions describe life in Helsinki couple of decades later. The Lars Sonck-designed of the street affords a great view of Helsinki’s 29 part of Katajanokka were completed along unique composition was com- in the 18th century. building also houses Helsinki’s oldest Russian res- North Harbour (Pohjoissatama) and the eastern Merikasarminkatu in 1979. This part of town is missioned by the University of taurant, Bellevue, which dates back to 1917. parts of the city. considered a fine example of new Finnish urban Helsinki, Helsinki Cathedral and The White Hall at Aleksanterinkatu 16-18 architecture. The redbrick facades and numerous the City of Helsinki from Harri 11 (courtyard) was designed by Walter Jung in A statue from 1924 entitled “The The Katajanokka on the left was projections and balconies connect the area stylis- Viitanen and Jyrki Alakuijala 1925 and is used to host exhibitions and important Water Bearer” by Viktor Malmberg 24 completed in 1911 to serve officers of the tically with the historic part of Katajanokka. The and premiered in 2005. The events. (1867-1936) can be found in the small Russian Baltic fleet. Today the casino is owned by area was formerly the site of a shipyard. 6 7 1 Senate Square and neighbouring districts

From Merisotilaantori (“Sea Warrior Höijer and known as “Norrmén’s Castle” after its The ornate building on the far side of The buildings at the end of Snellmaninkatu A sculpture by Wäinö Aaltonen (1894- signed by Gustaf Nyström, Square”) turn right down the footpath owner. The bridge in front connects Katajanokka 41 the park houses the Svenska Klubben 45 house university departments. They were 53 1966) entitled “Daybreak” and dating who was responsible for along the shoreline, which affords a with Pohjoisesplanadi. (“Swedish Club”). The house was originally built built in several phases over the past hundred years. from 1956 can be seen on the opposite corner. drawing many public build- fine seascape with the inner harbours in the as an English-style home for Ossian Donner and Aaltonen was one of the most prominent sculptors ings in Helsinki. The tym- foreground, behind them a beautiful bay and We continue across the northernmost his family in 1901. Previously the site housed a The little golden cupola belongs to a of the newly independent Finland and the artist panum carries a relief by beyond that the open sea. The route bypasses bridge over the canal to Meritullintori wooden villa that was home to the Armfelts, a no- 46 building owned by the Orthodox Parish behind many nationally important monuments. Emil Wikström depicting the Laivasto (“Fleet”) Matruusi (“Seaman’s”) (“Sea Customs”) square. ble family that played an important role in Finnish of Helsinki. It was designed by Sebastian Tšar Alexander I at the parks and continues to Kruunuvuorenkatu. history. Gripenberg and completed in 1905. The build- The copper fountain at Rauhankatu 18 Diet in 1809. The second oldest building in the city cen- ing includes a small chapel where religious serv- 54 is the work of Eila Hiltunen (1922-2003), 37 tre is the former Customs Warehouse Mauritzinkatu or Maurinkatu (Mauritz ices are held in several languages. Downstairs is a an artist known for her welding techniques, and From the corner of Mastokatu on the that dates back to 1765. The building currently or Mauri Street) is named after Gustav small boutique selling items associated with the dates from 1961. This abstract sculpture is one of 30 right are the redbrick walls of the former houses the Finnish Literature Society’s publication Mauritz Armfelt. Liisankatu (Liisa Orthodox faith. Hiltunen’s earliest welding works. Here you can see a bust of Senator Leo Helsinki County Prison. The prison was recently department and bookshop. Street) is named after the Russian Tsarina 58 Mechelin (1839-1914), another influential moved out of Helsinki to Vantaa and replaced by Elizabeth, wife of Tsar Alexander I. 47 A sculpture by Emil Cedercreutz (1879- 55 The oldest section of the National Finnish statesman in the 19th century. The bust was a unique new hotel. The prison chapel was de- Overlooking Meritullintori square is a relief 1949) entitled “Maternal Love” and Archives was designed by architect Gustaf sculpted by and dates from 1909, signed by A. F. Granstedt and completed in the 38 entitled “Peter’s Draught of Fish” from The redbrick buildings served as barracks erected in 1930 can be found in the small park. Nyström and completed in 1890. The building has although it was erected here in 1943. 1830s. 1951 by Carl Wilhelms (1889-1953). 42 until the early 20th century. In 1924 the since been extended. The statuary group of three Military Academy was established here. The build- women on top of the old building was sculpted At the bottom of Snellmaninkatu is the The Katajanokka Terminal serves fer- Pohjoisranta, Helsinki’s “North Shore”, ings now house the Military Museum, which fea- by C. E. Sjöstrand (1828-1906) and symbolises 59 capital’s first post-office building, dating 31 ries to Sweden, and year features handsome residential build- tures exhibitions on military history and weapons Finland standing in the middle surrounded by the from 1853. It now houses the Bank of Finland round, as well as many international cruise ships ings from the late 19th and early 20th from the 17th century to the Second World War, as goddesses of historical research and writing. The Museum. during the summer season. centuries designed by such renowned archi- well as an extensive photo archive. The museum is oldest document on Finland preserved in the ar- tects as Theodor Höijer, Lars Sonck and Onni open to the public. chives dates from 1316. The archives are open to The historic warehouses here now house Tarjanne. In summertime traditional wooden the public. 32 the Wanha Satama exhibition centre and sailing ships tie up along Halkolaituri Pier. Turn into Meritullinkatu and con- restaurants. tinue onwards via Kulmakatu to Turning into Snellmaninkatu you will see Kristianinkatu. The Forest Building was designed by Jussi 56 the Bank of Finland. The building was de- Tip! The historic Warrant House was designed One of the most unique buildings along 48 Paatela and completed in 1939. It houses signed by German architect The District boasts many antique 33 by Lars Sonck and completed in the early 39 Pohjoisranta is the Renaissance-style resi- The oldest remaining wooden building in the Finnish Forest Research Institute and Ludwig Bohnstedt and shops and cosy local bars. 1900s. The building has been converted into a dential building designed by Sebastian Gripenberg 43 Helsinki dates back to 1818 and can be the University of Helsinki’s Forestry Department. completed in 1882. In hotel, while the new building opposite houses a and Magnus Schjerfbeck and completed in 1899. found at Kristianinkatu 12. The Burgher’s House front sits J. W. Snellman, congress centre. On the right is one of Helsinki’s numerous is now a branch of the Helsinki City Museum and The Empire-style building on the other side a central figure in Finland’s marinas, behind which in the distance you can is decorated in the style of a middle-class home 49 of Unioninkatu was once a hospital and national awakening in 34 The redbrick building with the round tow- see Korkeasaari Island, home to the Helsinki Zoo. of the 1860s. has been converted for use by the University of the 19th century. The ers is the former Customs and Bonded The zoo is open year round; in summertime you Helsinki. statue was sculpted by Warehouse that was designed in Jugend style by can get there by ferry from the Market Square and The small Jugend-style school with deco- Emil Wikström Gustaf Nyström and completed in 1900. Market, and there is also a road con- 44 rative towers on Oikokatu was designed by The historic hospital buildings were (1864-1942) and nection from the mainland via Island. architects Jung and Fabritius and completed in 50 designed by Engel in the 1820s. The erected in 1923. Along Kanavakatu on the right is Finnida, After the boats there is a causeway leading to 1905. The street in front of the school is closed wards have since been converted for use by the Scars from the 1944 35 the Finnish International Development Tervasaari Island, where merchants stored their to traffic. University of Helsinki. The grounds feature a par- aerial bombings can still be seen on the plinth. Agency under the Ministry for Foreign Affairs. tar back in the 17th century. Now a park with a sum- ticularly nice courtyard. The building was designed by Olli Pekka Jokela mer , this tiny island is a popular place Our walk continues along Oikokatu Opposite the Bank of Finland is the House and completed in 1993. The old mint alongside the for a walk. back to Liisankatu. A sculpture by Helena Pylkkänen (1945-) 57 of Estates, which is nowadays used to Finnida building has been restored to its original 51 entitled “The Gate Keeper” and dating host State functions. In 1993 the building was 19th-century design. In a small park is a monument designed from 1981 can be seen inside the courtyard. awarded the Europa Nostra prize for its fine res- 40 by Gunnar Finne (1886-1952) and Armas toration. The building was originally completed in 36 The white marble office building on the Lindgren (1874-1929) and erected in 1921 in mem- On the corner of Rauhankatu is Helsinki’s 1891 as a meeting place for the commoner estates corner was designed by legendary Finnish ory to the White soldiers who died in the Battle of 52 oldest Orthodox church, Holy Trinity, consisting of the clergy, burghers and peasants. architect and completed in 1962. It during the of 1918. designed by Engel and completed in 1827. The The nobles met at the House of Nobility. Like the serves as the head office of international paper church features a beautiful altar painting and of- National Archives, the House of Estates was de- giant . The site once housed an ornate fers religious services in Church Slavonic. redbrick residential building designed by Theodor 8 9 24

22 23 21 2 Central Railway Station and Töölönlahti Bay

20 Relax in the green heart By the entrance to the small stage is a me- Our walk con- 3 morial to Finnish actress Ida Aalberg (1857- 9 tinues along 25 of the city 1915) designed by Raimo Utriainen. Entitled “The the shoreline and over Curtain”, it was unveiled in 1972. Pitkänsilta, the “Long Töölönlahti Bay is situated between the city Bridge”, which was built 10 centre and the southern end of Keskuspuisto, Our walk continues to in 1912. The bridge still 27 Helsinki’s “”. The parks around the bay Park, which was created in the 1820s. bears the scars of bombing from both the Civil War 26 are popular places for city residents and tourists It is named after Kajsa Wahllund, who of 1918 and the Second World War. A bridge was alike to relax and exercise. The cultural and historic ran a restaurant here in the first half of the 19th first built across this stretch of water in the mid surroundings are best explored on foot, by bicy- century that was particularly popular among 17th century. cle or even on rollerblades. The loop around the students. This restaurant is still operating. bay is approximately 2.2 kilometres. The environ- Swedish-speaking students gather here on May Perched on top of the 28 ment also offers a taste of Finland’s unique nature. Day morning to sing, while Finnish-speaking 10 hill in the distance is the 19 17 Many bird species nest along the northeast shore, students congregate in Kaivopuisto Park. grey granite Kallio Cathedral and the waters hide a number of rare plants. designed by Lars Sonck and com- pleted in 1912. The cathedral was 18 1 The first Finnish-language professional Behind the National Theatre is a fountain fully restored in 1986. Each day 13 theatre was founded in 1872 and acquired 4 and a sculpture by Viktor Jansson (1886- at noon and 6pm the church bells play a melody 16 the name in 1902, the 1958) entitled “Convolvulus” that was unveiled composed by legendary Finnish composer Jean 12 same year that it moved to its current premises. in 1931. Sibelius. 29 The granite castle was designed in National Romantic style by Onni Tarjanne. The frescoes in 5 On the slope stands For our walking tour of the Kallio 11 the foyer are by Juho Rissanen and the main hall by a sculpture by Jussi district, see pages 29. 15 Yrjö Ollila. The theatre now houses a total of four Mäntynen (1886-1978) entitled stages. The interior was renovated in 1962 under 14 “The Young Elk” that dates from the direction of Heikki and Kaija Sirén, who also 1930. Ahead lies Hakaniemi Market, which is designed the small stage that opened in 1954. The 11 open on Mondays to Saturdays from 7am main building was restored in 2002 in time for its 6 The bust of Fredrik Pacius (1809-1891), to 2pm. In summertime you can catch a ferry from hundredth anniversary. the German-born composer of Vårt land here to Helsinki Zoo on Korkeasaari Island. On (“Our Land”), which became the Finnish national one side of the square is a monument to “World 30 2 In the square in front of the Finnish National anthem, was sculpted by Emil Wikström and un- Peace” sculpted by Oleg Kiryuhin – a gift to Theatre is a statue of legendary Finnish au- veiled in 1895. Vårt land was first performed in Helsinki from the City of Moscow in 1990. 31 9 thor (1834-1872) designed by Wäinö 1848. 7 Aaltonen and erected in 1939. Lines from a poem The redbrick Hakaniemi by Kivi are inscribed on the pedestal. On the side of the field can be seen the grave 12 Market Hall was built in 7 of Freemason Fredrik Granatenhjelm 1914 and today sells groceries, as 33 8 dating back to 1784. well as textiles and handicrafts. 32 8 The Botanical Garden, part of the Finnish The residential building with Museum of Natural History, is an idyllic 13 the three towers opposite the Market Hall is 6 setting for a walk. Admire the trees, gardens and named Arena and was designed by Lars Sonck. Built 34 tropical plants. The Botanical Garden was original- in the 1920s, it now houses the Arena Comedy 5 3 ly designed by Franz Falderman of St. Petersburg Theatre. 35 4 in the 1830s. The wooden Empire-style buildings 37 along the Kaisaniemi shoreline were relocated From Siltasaarenkatu turn into Paasivuori 36 from Punavuorenkatu and Uudenmaankatu streets 14 Park, where you can find a th 38 already in the early 19 century. sculpture by Johannes Haapasalo 39 1 entitled “The Boxers” dating 40 from 1932. 41 45 2 47 48 49 42 43 46 51 10 44 50 500 m 11 © City Survey, Helsinki 001/2007 1 Central Railway Station and Töölönlahti Bay

The grey granite building with the steep Park can be seen in the background and is open In front of the stadium stands the statue 29 On the other side of in finds, religious art, furnishings and ethnological ar- The new Helsinki Music 15 pinnacles is Paasitorni, the most famous from late April to September. 25 of legendary Finnish distance runner Paavo front of the Crowne Plaza Hotel is a metallic tefacts. The museum is open to the public. Centre is currently be- Workers’ Hall in Finland. Designed by architect Nurmi (1897-1973) sculpted by Wäinö Aaltonen sculpture by Kimmo Kaivanto (1932- ) entitled “Ode ing built opposite the Karl Lindahl and completed in 1908, it served 21 The Winter Garden was established by the (1894-1966) in 1952. Nurmi competed in three to the 60,000 Lakes” and unveiled in 1972. In the small park outside the museum Parliament House. The Music as the headquarters of the Red Forces during Finnish Horticultural Society in 1893 and of- Olympics in the 1920s 34 is a memorial to Finnish ethnologist M. Centre will offer Helsinki an Finland’s Civil War in 1918. fers free admission to the public. Surrounding the and won a total of nine 30 The statue by the side of Mannerheimintie A. Castrén (1813-1852) sculpted by Alpo Sailo acoustically first-class concert Winter Garden is Eläintarha Park, where you can gold and three silver is of Larin Paraske (1833-1904), a Karelian (1877-1955) and unveiled in 1921. hall and other facilities providing 16 The “Round House” (Ympyrätalo) was find a bust of J. J. af Lindfors (1831-1903), the busi- medals. Across the street rune singer. The statue was sculpted by Alpo Sailo a wide range of musical experi- designed by Heikki and Kaija Sirén and nessman who donated the greenhouses. The bust is the statue of another (1877-1955) and unveiled in 1949. You can also In front of the Parliament Building is a ences for people of all ages and a completed in 1968. was sculpted by Walter Runeberg. Also in the park is a famous Finnish runner see a memorial to Finnish President 35 statue of President Kyösti Kallio (1873- place to study music. The main users of the build- statue entitled “ Lasse Viren (1949-) (1900-1986) entitled “The Spring” that was de- 1940) sculpted by his son Kalervo ing will be the Sibelius Academy, the Helsinki 17 Beside the Round House is the Kallio Addresses His Sword” b y sculpted by Terho Sakki signed by Pekka Jylhä (1955- ) and unveiled in 2000 Kallio (1909-1969) and unveiled in Philharmonic and the Finnish Radio Symphony Municipal Office designed by Heikki C. E. Sjöstrand (1930-1997) in 1994. on the centenary of Kekkonen’s birth. 1962. Orchestra. and Kaija Sirén Sirén and completed in 1965. The dating from 1868 and building houses the Helsinki City Social Services describing a theme Parliament House was On the right is the Parliament annex, which Department and the Helsinki City Archives. from the Finnish national 36 built between 1926 and was completed in spring 2004 to provide ad- epic the . 1931 and is one of the most fa- ditional space, especially for members of par- 18 Along the shoreline is a monument entitled Originally an exhibition centre, the mous edifices in Finland. Designed by Johan liament and their assistants. The first floor “The Torch” sculpted by Aimo Tukiainen The bust of Henrik Borgström (1799- 26 Kisahalli Sports Hall was completed in Sigfrid Sirén in the monumental classical style of houses the Visitor’s Centre, while the atrium (1917-1996) and unveiled in 1968 in memory of 22 1883), creator of both Eläintarha Park 1935 and extended in 1949. is a concert and congress the 1920s, the exterior is reddish Kalvola granite on the ground floor houses the staff restau- Miina Sillanpää (1866-1952), the first female mem- and Kaivopuisto Park, was sculpted by Walter 31 centre designed by legendary Finnish archi- and the facade is lined by fourteen columns with rant. The décor is characterised by the use of ber of the Finnish Government as the Minister of Runeberg and dates back to 1888. 27 The Töölönlahti Recreational Centre tect Alvar Aalto. Designed in 1962, the main sec- Corinthian capitals. Built as a monument to Finnish Finnish wood and floors covered in granite from Social Affairs. rents sports and camping equipment, in- tion was completed in 1971 and the congress wing independence and democracy, Parliament House different parts of the country. The annex was 23 The statue of Lauri “Tahko” Pihkala cluding skis, Nordic Walking poles and snowshoes. in 1975. The interior was also designed down to is a complete work of art in which architecture, designed by Pekka Helin. Finland celebrated 100 years of equal (1888-1919), a famous advocate of Finnish The centre also offers guide services around the smallest detail by Aalto himself. The façade is industrial design, workmanship and art form a har- A statue by Eila Hiltunen and universal suffrage in 2006. Finland sport, was sculpted by Nina Sailo (1906-1998) and Nuuksio National Park and Helsinki’s Central Park. dressed in Carrara marble. Guided tours allow you monious whole. The interior is also classical for the (1922-2003) entitled “The was the first country in the world to give unveiled on 5 January 1988 to mark the 100th an- to appreciate the architecture of the building in full. most part, but functionalism and art deco are vis- Knights of Yore” can full voting and political rights to women. No less niversary of Pihkala’s birth. Dozens of congresses, concerts, exhibitions and ible in some details. It constitutes a fine example be found in the “Little than 19 female members of the 200-seat parlia- other events are held at Finlandia Hall each year. of and industrial design in the 1920s, Parliament” Park in front ment were elected in the 1907 elections. Behind the trees you can see the Olympic featuring sculptures by Wäinö Aaltonen, Gunnar of the annex. Dedicated 24 Stadium designed by Yrjö Lindgren and The pink stone building is Hakasalmi Finne and Johannes Haapasalo, ceiling paintings to equal and universal Overlooking the park is the Helsinki City Toivo Jäntti. The first phase of construction was 32 Villa, which houses a branch of the by Bruno Tuukkanen and furniture by Werner suffrage, the monument 19 Theatre designed by Timo Penttilä and completed in time to host the 1940 Olympic Games, Helsinki City Museum. The villa was built in 1843 West, Arttu Brummer and others. The most im- was unveiled in commem- completed in 1967. The theatre has three stages. The which were postponed due to the war. Helsinki sub- after the design of Ernst Lohrmann from Germany. portant rooms, the Session Hall and Hall of State, oration of Parliament’s statue in front is by Kari Juva (1939-) and depicts sequently hosted the Summer Olympics in 1952. It was once the private home of Aurora Karamzin were designed by Sirén himself. In the courtyard Centennial in May 2006. Thalia and Pegasus. It was unveiled in 1970. The stands, grounds and facilities of the stadium (1808-1902), the benefactress and founder of the are sculptures by Arvo Siikamäki, Taru Mäntynen Finland was the first coun- have been renovated many times. The stadium Opera performances have been given in Helsinki Deaconess Institute who once served in and Veikko Hirvimäki sculpted in the 1980s. There try in the world to give full Our walk continues along Eläintarhan- currently holds 40,000 spectators, who come to 28 Finland since the late 19th century. The the Russian royal court. Karamzin lived here until building also houses an extensive library that is voting and political rights tie, over the pedestrian bridge crossing watch major international sporting events, outdoor Domestic Opera (later the Finnish Opera) was found- her death in 1902. open to the public. Members of the public can view to women. No less than 19 the railway lines to Linnunlauluntie. The rock concerts and the popular Finland vs. Sweden ed in 1911 and the Finnish Ballet in 1922. The name parliamentary sessions on Tuesdays and Fridays, female members of parliament were elected in Linnunlaulu “Birdsong” district is also part of the athletics meet, which Finnish National Opera was adopted in 1956. The National Museum of Finland was and free guided tours are also offered. the 1907 elections. popular walking route around Töölönlahti Bay. is held in alternat- Housed in the on Bulevardi since 33 designed in National Romantic style by The romantic wooden villas date from the 19th ing years in Helsinki 1918, the company finally got its own opera house legendary architect trio Gesellius, At the foot of the steps stands a statue of century. Villa Kivi serves as a Writers House where and Gothenburg. The in 1993.The modern building was designed by Eero Lindgren and Saarinen and com- 37 Finland’s first president K. J. Ståhlberg The Museum of Contemporary Art authors can write in peace, while the other houses stadium also houses Hyvämäki, Jukka Karhunen and Risto Parkkinen. The pleted in 1916. The steps are (1865-1952) sculpted by Wäinö Aaltonen (1894- 39 was designed by American architect in the neighbourhood are still in residential use. the Finnish Sports opera has two stages and features all the latest tech- adorned by the statue of 1966) and unveiled in 1959. Steven Holl and completed in 1998. The museum’s Museum. The sta- nology for staging opera and ballet performances. a bear by Emil Wikström. collections and exhibitions feature installations, pho- dium tower is 72 The white exterior unites the opera house with the The ceiling of the en- 38 On the corner is another statue by Wäinö tographs, media art and paintings. Each year the mu- 20 Further off, on the hill to metres high and of- other cultural edifices surrounding Töölönlahti Bay: trance hall features Aaltonen of Finland’s third president P. E. seum highlights different parts of its collections. The the right, are the hospital fers a splendid view Finlandia Hall and the . A gran- frescoes painted by Akseli Gallen-Kallela describing Svinhufvud (1861-1944) dating from 1961. Kiasma Theatre features musical performances, films, and chapel of the Helsinki over the city. ite sculpture by Hannu Sirén (1953- ) entitled “The scenes from the Finnish national epic the Kalevala. multimedia shows, debates and seminars. Deaconess Institute founded Stone Visitor” and erected in 1995 stands 8 metres The museum’s collections contain archaeological by the great benefactress Aurora tall in the forecourt. Karamzin (1808-1902). Linnanmäki Amusement 12 13 1 Central Railway Station and Töölönlahti Bay

Behind Kiasma stands Sanomatalo, Until recently the area behind Lasipalatsi 47 The Helsinki General Post Office was tures I. Aalto and A. W. Finch. Another restaurant the impressive glass and steel head- 44 served as the Central Bus Station. During the designed by architects J. Järvi and E. is situated on the second floor. Railway services Tip! quarters of , the Russian period the area housed barracks, of which Lindroos and completed in 1938. The building began in Finland in 1862. In addition to domestic Across the square on the east side of the Central largest daily newspaper in Finland. The build- only the service building of the Turku Barracks re- houses the Post Museum, which features large train services, Helsinki also offers three daily train Railway Station is the Grand ing was designed by Jan Söderlund and Antti- mains; originally built in 1833, it was renovated collections of Finnish and foreign stamps, special services to Russia: one to Moscow and two to St. and other exciting entertainment establish- Matti Siikala and completed in 1999. In addi- in 1996. Behind it rises the brand new exhibitions, multimedia presentations and a let- Petersburg. Beneath the station is a shopping ar- ments, including cinemas, restaurants and shops. tion to the editorial offices of the newspaper, Centre, which houses over ter café. It also houses the Helsinki City Library’s cade and Helsinki’s main metro station. From Mikonkatu you can jump aboard the unique the building houses shops and restaurants. 150 shops, cafés and restau- “Library 10”, which is specialised in music and Spårakoff pub tram, which operates throughout rants, the new bus terminal open to all visitors. Library 10 also lends literature 50 Opposite the station on the corner of the summer allowing you to ride through the city 40 Behind the Parliament Building you can and a metro station. On the on films, computers and travel, as well as comic Mannerheimintie is a grey granite busi- while enjoying a cold drink. see the Sibelius Academy, the largest north side of the shopping books. The library also stocks a wide selection of ness centre and hotel designed by Armas Lindgren music academy in Finland and the entire Nordic centre is the Tennis Palace, magazines and features a wireless network and and completed in 1913. The building features an region. It was established in 1882 as the Helsinki which was originally built in several computers with internet connections that impressive interior that has been exquisitely pre- Music Academy and was named after the legen- 1938 and converted in 1999 can be used free of charge. served. The Seurahuone Hotel originally opened dary Finnish composer in 1939. into a cinema complex. The beside the Market Square in 1833. building also houses the 48 Housed in the west wing of the Central Museum of Cultures and the Railway Station is the Finnair City 51 The was designed Tennis Palace Art Museum. Terminal, from where Finnair buses to Helsinki- by Theodor Höijer and completed in 1887. Vantaa Airport depart. The façade is decorated by busts of Bramante, 45 The famous equestrian statue of Field Phidias and Raphael, as well as four caryatids, all Marshal C. G. E. Mannerheim (1867-1951) 49 The Central Railway Station is one of by C. E. Sjöstrand. The entrance hall is particularly 41 The Natural History Museum features was designed by Aimo Tukiainen (1917-1996) and Helsinki’s most recognisable landmarks. impressive. The exhibition rooms have been fully the largest collection of unveiled in 1960. Mannerheim holds an unparal- Considered by many to be the crowning achieve- renovated, and in the courtyard are new exten- animals in Finland with around 8 leled position in Finnish military and political his- ment of architect Eliel Saarinen, this granite sions housing auditoriums, studios, an art library million specimens. The sculpture tory. He served as Supreme Commander of the monument is also one of the most internationally and the museum shop. Sculptures stand outside in of the elk that stands in front of Finnish Army during the Second World War and admired Finnish architectural works. Completed in the courtyard. The Ateneum Art Museum serves as the museum was designed by Jussi subsequently also as President of the Republic. 1919, the building represents the transition from the and houses the coun- Mäntynen (1886-1978). The mu- Mannerheim’s birthday 4 June has been com- National Romanticism to a new Functional style. try’s largest art collection, including Finnish art seum will reopen to the public in memorated as the Flag Day of the Finnish Defence The four granite giants who guard the main en- from the 1750s to the 1960s and western art from 2008 after renovations are com- Forces since 1942. trance and carry round lamps in their hands were the latter half of the 19th century to the 1950s, in- pleted. designed by sculptor Emil Wikström. The giant cluding many national treasures. At the Ateneum painting on the end wall of the restaurant in the you will find Finland’s golden age and modern 42 In the square on the corner is a monu- east wing is by Eero Järnefelt and depicts Lake masters, from Albert Edelfelt to Akseli Gallen- ment entitled “East and West” sculpted Pielinen. The painting also includes the signa- Kallela and . by Harry Kivijärvi (1931- ) in 1980 in memory of President J. K. Paasikivi (1870-1956).

43 The Lasipalatsi “Glass Palace” on Mannerheimintie was designed by Revell, Kokko and Riihimäki and completed in 1935. Originally intended only as temporary commer- cial space to replace the Turku Barracks that were destroyed in the Civil War in 1918, Lasipalatsi has The Sokos Building was designed by Erkki become a monument to Functionalist architecture. 46 Huttunen and completed in time for the The building now houses a media centre in which Helsinki Olympics in 1952 and houses a depart- communications, technology and people interact ment store and hotel. in TV studios, galleries, a cinema, shops, an inter- net library and cafés.

14 15 26 Töölö and Meilahti districts 25 3

Admire the Functionalist Continue down 4 Oksasenkatu to the and Classicist architecture small park where you will find 24 a statue commemorating Töölö is one of the finest districts in Helsinki, legendary Finnish novelist 22 where splendid architecture is combined with (1908-1979) many green parks. There are two parts to Töölö: sculpted by Veikko Hirvimäki 21 Etu-Töölö (“Front Töölö”), which borders the city and unveiled in 1985. Waltari’s most famous novel centre, and Taka-Töölö (“Back Töölö”) on the “The Egyptian” has been translated into 40 languag- northern side of Hesperiankatu park street. The es. Waltari lived and wrote in nearby Tunturikatu. In architecture of Etu-Töölö is dominated by the brick 18 the Hesperia Esplanade is the controversial memorial 20 Classicism of the 1920s, and that of Taka-Töölö by Matti Peltokangas to Finland’s second president 16 by the light Functionalism of the 1930s. Taka- L. K. Relander (1883-1942). Töölö is also home to such famous landmarks as the Olympic Stadium, the Sibelius Monument On the corner of Töölöntorinkatu is a mon- 15 and the Finnish National Opera. Most of the 5 ument to the Lotta Svärd voluntary auxil- 14 residential buildings in the Meilahti district behind iary organisation for women that was disbanded in Töölö were built around the mid 1900s. Meilahti is 1944. The monument stands in front of the former 19 home to Mäntyniemi, the official residence of the Suojeluskuntatalo that served the Finnish National 17 Finnish President that was completed in 1993, and Guard. 23 a major hospital complex. Our walk continues to Töölö Market in Our walking tour of Töölö begins at 6 Taka-Töölö, most of which was completed 1 designed by by the late 1930s. The facades of the buildings Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen and completed in share a similar appearance that is often referred 1969. The plot was reserved for a church already to as “Töölö Functionalism”. The market is open in the 1906 city plan. The building is hewn out during weekdays. 13 of the granite bedrock, and the ceiling is crafted from copper. In addition to Lutheran services, the On the left is Töölö Church, designed by church is a popular venue for concerts due to its 7 Hilding Ekelund and completed in 1929. excellent acoustics. Its unique architecture has 8 made the “Rock Church” one of the most popular 8 On the right is Töölö Hospital, part of 9 tourist attractions in Helsinki. It is also a popular Helsinki University Central Hospital. It was church for weddings in summertime. originally built as a Red Cross hospital in the early 1930s. At the time the Finnish Red Cross was head- 7 ed by none other than Carl Gustaf Mannerheim. 12 6 The hospital was designed by Jussi Paatela. 10 Turn into Sibeliuksenkatu and con- Some of Helsinki’s finest Classicist archi- tinue onwards towards Topelius Park. 2 tecture from the 1920s can be admired 5 along Museokatu and within the blocks encom- passed by Museokatu, Eteläinen Hesperiankatu, 4 Runeberginkatu and Mechelininkatu. Apollonkatu 23 houses a home museum 3 3 featuring the Reitz Foundation collec- tions. Once the residence of a wealthy Helsinki family, it now exhibits art and Finnish paintings 500 m 2 from the 19th century. © City Survey, Helsinki 001/2007

16 11 17 1 1 Töölö and Meilahti districts

On the left is the Kivelä Hospital com- Our walk continues along Merikan- 16 On the right is the Children’s Castle Here along Seurasaarentie and ad- is the former residence of To return 9 plex. The first buildings were completed nontie to Sibelius Park. Hospital for Children and Adolescents de- joining roads are many wooden villas 26 President Urho Kekkonen (1900-1986) to the city in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The large signed by Elsi Borg and completed in 1948. dating back to the late 19th and early and is now a museum. The villa was donated in centre, catch brick buildings were designed by Gunnar Taucher 20th centuries. 1940 by Amos Anderson, a businessman and pa- Tram 4 or a local bus and completed in the 1930s. Here in the park you will see the Sibelius The park is named after the famous Finnish tron of the arts, to be used by President Kyösti in front of the Skin 13 Monument designed by Eila Hiltunen 17 paediatrician Arvo Ylppö (1887-1992). The big villa to the right used to be the resi- Kallio, after whom it became the residence of sev- and Allergy Hospital The park is named after (1922-2003) and erected in 1967. The monument 23 dence of composer Yrjö Kilpinen (1892- eral other Finnish presidents. The residence was on Paciuksenkatu, 10 Finnish composer Toivo is constructed from welded steel to resemble or- Turn into Stenbäckinkatu, where 1959). converted into a museum following the death of or walk back to Kuula (1883-1918) who died tragi- gan pipes and features a bust of the composer to the Meilahti hospital complex and Urho Kekkonen and opened to the public in 1987. bridge and cally amidst celebrations marking one side. Jean Sibelius (1865-1957) is by far the Helsinki University Hospital build- Tomtebo is home to the Seurasaari The interior of Tamminiemi has been restored to as catch Bus 24. the end of the Civil War. The statue best-known Finnish composer of all time, and the ings begin. 24 Foundation, which operates the Seurasaari it was in Kekkonen’s day and features his personal in his memory was sculpted by Anu Sibelius Monument is one of the most popular Open-Air Museum and supports Finnish folklore items. Museum visitors are given a guided tour of Matilainen and unveiled in 1988. In sights in Helsinki, attracting hundreds of thou- The Children’s Hospital was designed and traditions. Visitors can enjoy folklore exhibi- the home. summertime the shoreline is lined sands of visitors each year. 18 by Uno Ullberg and Erkki Linnansalmi and tions and summer performances of Finnish folk with yachts. completed in 1946. dancing, as well as the villa’s own café. The Meilahti Art Museum forms part Tip! Café and dining culture is thriving in Töölö. The 27 of the Helsinki City Art Museum and fea- district is home to many popular restaurants, such is the resting At the tip of the headland is Kesäranta, At the end of Tamminiementie is a tures a permanent exhibition of Finnish 20th cen- 11 as Messenius, Lehtovaara, , Elite and place of many notable figures in Finnish 19 the official residence of the Prime Minister. footbridge to Seurasaari Island. tury art, as well as a donated collection of late Motti, many of which feature nostalgic interiors history from 1829 onwards. Many statues and The villa was acquired in 1904 as a summer resi- 19th century Finnish paintings. The museum also and fine traditional cuisine. monuments can be find among the graves. The dence for the Governor General during the period hosts visiting exhibitions of paintings, design and serene cemetery is a beautiful place for a walk, and of Russian rule and was restored to its former state Seurasaari Island photography. The exhibition hall was built in the guided walking tours are also offered. West of the with its ornamental tower in 1983. 25 is very popular 1970s. The other buildings formerly belonged to Hietaniemi Chapel is the military cemetery for 14 Our walk continues through the park, among walkers and skiers. Meilahti Manor. The wooden villa dates back to soldiers who died in the Second World War and the across Mechelininkatu to Topelius Park. On 20 At the other end of the park are Bronze The Seurasaari Open-Air the 1840s and houses a charming old-style café. tombs of the Unknown Soldier and Mannerheim. the other side of the park is Töölö Library, which Age burial finds that have been dated Museum was founded in The graves of several Finnish presidents can also is open to all visitors. The library was designed by back to the 8th century. 1909 and presents old Finnish buildings that have 28 The Meilahti Arboretum is a park con- be found near the chapel, including those of Urho Professor Aarne Ervi in the Modernist style and been relocated from all parts of Finland. Visitors taining trees and bushes native to this Kekkonen, and J. K. Paasikivi. Nearby completed in 1970. With its curving lines, light col- Continue down Seurasaarentie and can enter the buildings during summertime. The area. The plants and park are well signposted. The are Jewish, Islamic and Orthodox . ours and glass walls, the building is supposed to admire the view of Humallahti Bay. Karuna Church was transported from the west- oldest plants date back to 1967. The paths offer blend in with the surrounding nature. ern coast of Finland and dates back to 1680. The varying views of the park. The largest trees are is the most popu- wooden church is a popular place for summer wed- larches, various hazels, willows and poplars. The lar spot for sunbathers right in the 21 The official residence of the President of dings. Also in summertime, visitors to Seurasaari collection of roses is a local Helsinki specialty. city. Finland, Mäntyniemi was designed by can enjoy folk dancing and other outdoor events, the architect couple Raili and Reima Pietilä and such as the traditional Midsummer celebrations completed in 1993. The contemporary design con- and bonfires. A separate brochure of Seurasaari is At the tip of Toivo Kuula Park is the forms with the natural setting, and Finnish wild- available from Tomtebo and Tourist Information. 12 Rowing Stadium that was built for the flowers, trees and bushes have been planted in the Helsinki Olympics in 1952. garden. The attractive and sophisticated interior is characterised by light colours decorated with Finnish design, art and handi- crafts. The main elements are wood and stone. Continue through the arboretum to Meilahdentie and Paciuksenkatu. The Korjaamo Culture Centre combines 22 “The Daughter of the 15 the Korjaamo Culture Factory, the Helsinki Baltic” is a memorial to City Museum and the City of Helsinki Cultural author Maila Talvio (1871-1951) Office to host over a hundred events, exhibitions, by Laila Pullinen. It was erected concerts and festivals each year. Korjaamo is situ- in 1971 on the site of Maila ated on the site of the oldest tram Talvio’s home to commemorate depot in Helsinki dating back to 1900 the centenary of her birth. and houses the Tram Museum.

18 19 4 Esplanade, Bulevardi and Aleksanterinkatu

Feel the pulse of the 5 This building was designed by Theodor 10 The granite building with imposing columns 38 42 Höijer in the Neo-Renaissance style, which dates from 1908 and was designed by Lars th 35 commercial district arrived in Helsinki in the late 19 century. It is re- Sonck to house the Mortgage Society of Finland. 44 ferred to as “Grönqvist’s stone wall” after the Today it houses the Ministry of Transport and 40 This walk begins in Esplanade Park, which together man who built it. At the time that it was completed Communications. The extra floors above the original 34 37 39 41 43 with the Senate Square and the Market Square form in 1883, the building was the largest private apart- façade were added in the 1950s. 36 the heart of Helsinki’s historical centre. The park ment block in Scandinavia. 15 In the park on the other side of Mikonkatu 5 2 1 first featured in the town plan of J. A. Ehrenström in 11 14 8 7 1812 and from the start has been a popular place for 6 In the centre of the park stands the statue stands the statue of poet Eino Leino 6 Helsinki residents to congregate. Leading off to the of J. L. Runeberg (1804-1877), Finland’s (1878-1926) designed by Lauri Leppänen (1895- national poet and author of the Finnish national 1977) and unveiled in 1953. On the back of 12 11 3 north of the park, Kluuvikatu and Mikonkatu have 13 been converted into pedestrian streets. anthem. The statue was sculpted by his son Walter the statue are inscribed lines from “The Song of Runeberg (1838-1920) in 1885. Väinämöinen”. 33 4 10 9 Pohjoisesplanadi 19 houses Tourist The female figure decorating the 32 1 Information, which is run by the Helsinki pedestal is the patron muse of 12 Neraby is a statue by Gunnar Finne (1886- City Tourist & Convention Bureau. The building was Finnish poetry. 1952) entitled “Fact and Fable” and erect- 30 designed by Pehr Granstedt and completed in 1816. ed in 1932 to commemorate another famous Finnish 16 Next door in the same building is Jugendsali. Inside writer Zacharias Topelius (1818-1898). is the Helsinki Info centre, which serves city residents. Originally designed as a bank by Lars Sonck and 13 At the far end of the park is Svenska 17 18 Walter Jung in the National Romantic style of the Teatern, the . A wooden early 20th century, the “Jugend Hall” is also a popular theatre was first built on this site in 1827. The 31 place for exhibitions. The main hall and staircase on present building dates from 1866 and was designed 28 20 the Unioninkatu side have remained largely in their 7 The building next door was also designed by the St. Petersburg architect Nikolai Benois. The 19 original exquisite condition with the exception of an by Theodor Höijer. Completed in 1887, it red and gold auditorium also dates from Benois’ day, extension made to the bank hall around 1916. Wilho originally housed the legendary Hotel Kämp un- although the simple white exterior dates from 1936 29 21 Sjöström (1873-1944) painted the fresco of Helsinki til 1965, after which the entire building was torn and was designed by Jarl Eklund & Eero Saarinen. in the semicircular end of the hall. down. Following public reaction, the façade was reconstructed according to the original drawings. 14 On the corner of Pohjoisesplanadi and The building at Pohjoisesplanadi 21 was From 1969 onwards the renovated building housed Keskuskatu is the Academic Bookstore 27 2 designed by C. L. Engel and completed in a bank, but in 1999 it was converted back to house designed by Alvar Aalto and completed in 1969. 1820. the new Hotel Kämp. Finland’s leading bookstore and one of the largest in Europe, the Academic Bookstore also sells maga- 26 At the end of Esplanade Park is the historic The house next door to the Hotel Kämp at zines, maps, postcards and other accessories on 25 3 Kappeli Restaurant. Built in 1867 and based 8 Pohjoisesplanadi 31 was again designed by four floors. Book lovers can relax in the stylish Café on a design by Hampus Dalström, it has been ex- Höijer and today houses Marimekko, one of the Aalto on the second floor. 22 tended and renovated many times. In summer the most famous Finnish design, textiles and clothing Espa Stage hosts many outdoor concerts and brands. Theodor Höijer was the leading Helsinki ar- Across the street is Stockmann’s, the larg- th 15 events. On either side of the bandstand are foun- chitect at the end of the 19 century whose stone est department store in Scandinavia. A na- tains and statues by Viktor Jansson (1886-1958) buildings gave Helsinki the look of a continental tive of Lübeck, G. F. Stockmann opened his first 23 entitled “Hi There/Free Ride” and “Water city. However, many of his buildings were pulled shop in Helsinki in 1862. The main part of the de- Nymphs” and dating from 1942. down in the 1950s and 1960s. partment store was designed by Sigurd Frosterus and completed in 1930. Since 1989 the department The oldest house along the South Esplanade 9 On the top floor of the office block is the store has taken up the entire block. The new section 4 is the two-storey building in Empire style Savoy restaurant, whose rooftop ter- was designed by Kristian Gullichsen, Erkki Kairamo with a balcony. It was designed by C. L Engel and race offers a fine view over the centre of Helsinki. and Timo Vormala. completed in 1824 as the official residence of the Opened in 1937, the restaurant and all its fixtures military inspector. Later in the period of Russian rule were designed by Alvar and Aalto and are still 16 The old part of the office block on the cor- it served as the Governor-General’s Palace, and in in their original exquisite condition. ner of and Bulevardi was designed the Civil War of 1918 it served as the headquarters by F. A. Sjöström and completed in 1883. The exten- of the Reds. Today the building houses the ban- sion, which now houses the design hotel Klaus K, queting rooms of the Council of State. was originally designed by Lars Sonck and complet- ed in 1913. The building also houses several high- quality restaurants. 24 500m 20 © City Survey, Helsinki 001/2007 21 1 Esplanade, Bulevardi and Aleksanterinkatu

17 The building on the corner of Erottaja picnic spot for city residents in summertime opera house overlooking Töölönlahti Bay in 1993, 33 On the corner of Lönnrotinkatu and Next door is Rautatalo, the “Iron House”, From the corner of Unioninkatu Our houses Finnish Customs. This Neo- and a popular sledding hill in wintertime. after which the building was renamed the Alexander Yrjönkatu are the former headquarters of 37 designed by Alvar Aalto (1898-1976). The walk returns to the Esplanade Park. Renaissance palace was designed by Theodor Höijer Theatre. the Suomi-Salama insurance company. The build- marble courtyard with skylights, fountains and res- and dates back to the 1890s. is specialised ing was designed by Armas Lindgren and Onni taurants dates back to 1954 and was Finland’s first 22 th in old European art and houses Finland’s 28 Most of the fine resi- Tarjanne and dates back to the early 20 century. covered urban space. 18 Throughout the 20th century Ludviginkatu most important collection of old masters. The art dential buildings along On the façade of the extension on Yrjönkatu is a was home to Helsingin Sanomat, the biggest collection is based on a donation by Paul and Fanny Bulevardi date back to the late relief entitled “The Unexpected Visitor” by Wäinö The World Trade Centre was original- newspaper in Finland. In 1999 the editorial offices Sinebrychoff to the Finnish State in 1921. The up- 19th and early 20th centuries. Aaltonen (1894-1966). The fountain in the small 38 ly a bank building designed by Pauli E. moved in to Sanomatalo, the newspaper’s new glass per floor is a wonderful reproduction of the home of Café Ekberg at Bulevardi 9 park is by Sakari Tohka (1911-1958) and entitled Blomstedt and completed in 1929. Today the build- Tip! This route includes Design District Helsinki, a and steel headquarters beside Töölönlahti Bay. The the famous brewing family. The museum presents its is the oldest café in Helsinki; founded in 1852, it is “The Sea Monster and the Mermaid”. ing also houses boutiques and restaurants. cluster of creative enterprises and people in the old offices now house the Päivälehti Museum, collections, special exhibitions and additional pro- still operated by the Ekberg family. heart of Helsinki. The Design District combines the which presents free exhibitions. grammes. The Sinebrychoff Art Museum is part of Our walk continues from Yrjönkatu Vanha Kauppakuja, the “Old Shopping designer shops, interior decorating studios, antique the Finnish National Gallery. Opposite Ekberg’s is a former Swedish- down Kalevankatu and across 39 Arcade”, is an architectural landmark de- 29 dealers, clothing and jewellery boutiques, artist The “Triangle Park” features a statue by speaking school for girls designed by L. Mannerheimintie. The signed by K.A. Wrede and completed in 1888. 19 workshops, galleries, museums and restaurants in Yrjö Liipola dating from 1928 entitled On the corner of Hietalahdenranta and Lindqvist and completed in 1885. It is now used by was designed by Jung & Jung and completed the vicinity of Diana Park. The area also includes “Tellervo”. Tellervo is the goddess of hunting in 23 Bulevardi are historic redbrick buildings dat- the University of Helsinki. in 1931. The Atelier Bar on the 14th floor of- The former headquarters of Design Forum Finland, the Design Museum and the the Finnish national epic Kalevala. Helsinki residents ing from the 1870s and 1880s that once formed part fers a splendid view over the city. Kalevankatu 40 Insurance Company is a monument to Museum of Finnish Architecture. Around 120 lo- have nevertheless always referred to the statue as of the oldest brewery in Finland and Scandinavia, Vanha Kirkko, the “Old Church”, is one of 3 houses the legendary artist restaurant National Romantic architecture. Designed by 30 cal businesses are members of the Design District. “Diana” and the park as “Diana Park”. the Sinebrychoff Brewery, which was originally the few remaining historic wooden buildings Kosmos, whose exquisite interior dates back Lindgren, Gesellius and Saarinen and completed in www.designdistrict.fi established in 1819. Brewing operations moved out in Helsinki. It was designed by C. L. Engel and com- to the 1920s. Mannerheimintie is the main 1901, it also features sculptures by Hilda Flodin. Design Forum Finland presents Finnish of Helsinki to Kerava in the early 1990s. The park is pleted in 1826. The altar painting is by R. W. Ekman thoroughfare leading into Helsinki. The street Opposite the street at Aleksanterinkatu 13 is 20 design at its premises in the heart of also named after the family of Russian merchants and was originally commissioned for what is now was named after Marshal Mannerheim in 1942 a splendid Jugend building designed by Selim A. Helsinki’s Design District. The Design Forum fea- who founded the brewery. New housing and office Helsinki Cathedral. The pulpit and sizeable hourglass on the occasion of his 75th birthday. Lindqvist and completed in 1900. tures exhibitions, a café and a boutique selling clas- blocks have been built on the site of the former are from the 18th century Ulrika Eleonora Church, sic, new and unique designs from Finland. brewery. which was demolished in the 1820s to make way for Kolmen Sepän patsas, In the middle of Kluuvikatu stands the the Senate Square. In the park are graves and me- 34 “The Three Smiths”, 41 Fazer cock, a sculpture by Björn Weckström The shipyard here has built numerous ice- morials to Finnish and German soldiers who died in was sculpted by Felix (1935-) that was unveiled in 1992 to mark the cen- 24 breakers, as well as luxury cruise ships des- the Civil War of 1918. On the Yrjönkatu side of the Nylund (1878-1940) tenary of Oy Karl Fazer Ab, one of the oldest baker- tined for the Caribbean. graveyard is a memorial to Finnish voluntaries who and erected in 1932. ies and confectionery companies in Finland. Swiss- died in the Estonian War of Liberation of 1919. The Scars from the born Karl Fazer founded a French-Russian café in The historic market hall now houses the park was originally a graveyard that became known bombing of Helsinki Helsinki in 1891. You can still enjoy traditional and 25 Hietalahti Antique and Art Hall, where as the “Plague Park”, as over a thousand victims of in 1944 can still be seen new treats in the Fazer Café, whose original 1930s you can fine a wide selection of furniture and other the plague were buried in mass graves here in 1710 in the statue and its plinth. Functionalist interior has been fully preserved. antiques. The popular open-air flea market in front during the Great Northern War. From 1770 to 1829 of the hall is open daily. the park served as the city’s official cemetery. 35 Overlooking 42 The Shopping Centre was opened the square is the in 1989 and houses many fashion and in- Overlooking the square is the Technical Opposite the park are the offices of the Old Student House terior decorating boutiques, as well as restaurants. 26 College, former home of Helsinki University 31 Werner Söderström (WSOY) publishing designed by Axel of Technology (HUT). The central section was de- house. The building was designed by Waldemar Hampus Dalström and completed in 1870. The 43 Pörssitalo, the “Stock Exchange Building”, The Otava publishing house on signed by F. A. Sjöström and completed in 1877. The Aspelin and completed in 1890. tympanum is a work by Walter Runeberg and bears was designed by Lars Sonck and completed 21 Uudenmaankatu was designed by Karl building was later extended and altered. HUT is now the text “Spei suae patria dedit”, referring to the in 1911. The building still houses the Helsinki Stock Lindahl and Walter Thome in National-Romantic situated in modern facilities in the Otaniemi district In the small park behind the church is a stat- money that was donated by the nation to build the Exchange (Helsinki Exchanges, HEX). style. The oldest part was completed in 1906-1908. of neighbouring , while the old building now 32 ue of Elias Lönnrot house. Inside are many valuable works of art. The houses the Helsinki Polytechnic Stadia. (1802-1884) sculpted by entrance is guarded by statues of and 44 This office building taking up an entire block Our walk continues along Uuden- Emil Wikström (1864- Wäinämöinen, two heroes from Finnish folklore, along Aleksanterinkatu was built in 1936 to maankatu. This neighbourhood is 27 The decorative building on Bulevardi is 1942) and unveiled in sculpted by Robert Stigell and dating back to 1888. house bank headquarters. In the main hall are two home to many specialty boutiques, the Alexander Theatre, former home of 1902. Lönnrot was a The main hall was destroyed by fire in 1978 but has sculptures by Wäinö Aaltonen (1894-1966) entitled as well as trendy bars and restaurants, which the Finnish National Opera. It was originally built collector of Finnish been rebuilt and the entire building restored. “Eagle Boy” and “Faith in the Future”. form part of Design District in the 1870s to house the Russian garrison thea- folk poems who Helsinki. Participating boutiques tre and maed after the Russian tsar. The Finnish published the On the right is a redbrick office building de- can be identified by the round Opera moved into the building in 1918. The Finnish national epic the 36 signed by Eliel Saarinen (1873-1950) and black sticker on their doors. National Opera finally got its own purpose-built Kalevala in 1835. completed in 1921. Sinebrychoff Park is a favourite 22 23 2 1 4 5 5 Market Square, Kaivopuisto Park and Eira 6 3 Smell the sea breeze Designed by C. L. Engel and completed Atop the hill stands the Observatory de- 5 in 1833, the light blue building originally 11 signed by C. L. Engel and completed in housed the Seurahuone Hotel up until 1913. Since 1833. The building still houses the Department of Our walk begins at the Market Square. The market 8 7 the 1930s the building has housed Helsinki City Astronomy of the University of Helsinki. is open on weekdays from 6.30am to 6pm and on Hall. The city’s coat-of-arms can be seen on the Saturdays from 6.30am to 4pm. Here you will find tympanum. With the exception of the façade and Observatory Hill offers a splendid view 49 many cafés, and musicians entertain market goers 50 main hall, the building was completely rebuilt in the 12 of the harbour and Valkosaari Island. throughout the summer. Archipelago cruises depart late 1960s under architect Aarno Ruusuvuori (1925- One of Finland’s oldest yacht clubs, Nyländska from the waterfront daily in summertime, as well as 1992). Jaktklubben (NJK) was founded in 1861. The 48 regular ferries to Suomenlinna and Korkeasaari 47 white pavilion with the green roof houses a popular Island, home to Helsinki Zoo. The city’s oldest tra- Many other municipal offices are summer restaurant that is open to the public. ditional event, the annual Herring Market, dates situated beside the Market Square. back to the 1740s and is held at the Market Square “The Shipwrecked” was designed by in early October. Passenger terminals for inter- 13 Robert Stigell (1852-1907) and erected in national ferries are situated on either side of the The Havis Amanda statue 1898. Market Square. 46 6 was sculpted by Ville Vallgren 9 10 44 45 (1855-1940) in Paris and unveiled 14 The yellow-brick building down on the water- At the eastern corner of the market stands in Helsinki in 1908. The unofficial front was completed in 1952 as the Olympic 1 the Presidential Palace. It was originally symbol of Helsinki, the popular Terminal for Helsinki’s Summer Games. The terminal designed by Pehr Granstedt as a private residence nude figure was once considered offers daily ferry connections to Stockholm. 12 and completed in 1818. In 1843 it was bought controversial. The granite foun- 43 11 by the State and turned into a palace for visiting tain itself was designed by Eliel 15 The Statue of Peace was erected in 1968 13 Russian tsars. Since 1919 it has been the official res- Saarinen. Havis Amanda is to symbolise the peaceful coexistence and idence of the President of the Republic of Finland. the focal point celebrations friendship between Finland and the . Nowadays the palace houses the President’s Office by university students on The female figure stands over five metres tall and is used for official functions and receptions. The big- the eve of May Day (30 was sculpted by Essi Renvall (1911-1979). 14 gest annual event at the palace is the Independence April). Day reception on 6 December. 16 At the corner of Ullankatu and The red, white and yellow-brick Old Market stands the Russian Embassy that was The as it appears today was 7 Hall was designed by Gustaf Nyström and 16 Supreme Court built after the Second World War. Next door is the 2 designed by F. A. Sjöström and completed in completed in 1888. The market Russian Consulate and residential buildings for 1883 originally as a private palace. hall, Helsinki’s oldest, houses 30 embassy and consulate workers and their families. delicatessen stalls, as well as res- The granite and soapstone embassy was completed 18 24 17 3 The Tsarina’s Stone was the first public taurants and cafés. in 1952 as part of Finland’s war reparations to the 23 monument to be erected in Helsinki. This Soviet Union. 15 obelisk with the double-headed golden eagle of 22 Imperial Russia was designed by C. L. Engel and On the opposite side of the street is Opposite the Russian Embassy is the Roman 39 unveiled in 1835 in commemoration of a visit to 8 Sundman’s House, the former residence of 17 20 Catholic Church of St. Henry, which was 41 Helsinki two years earlier by Tsar Nicholas I and a wealthy merchant. It was designed by C. L. Engel dedicated in 1860. Approximately 8000 people in Tsarina Alexandra. The double-headed eagle was and completed in the 1830s. The building now Finland belong to the Roman Catholic Church. 40 removed during the Russian Revolution in 1917 but houses one of Helsinki’s best restaurants. 42 19 25 21 was preserved in a museum and replaced at the top 18 The white marble palace was designed by of the obelisk in 1972. 9 The German Church is a popular venue for Eliel Saarinen and completed 26 local weddings. The redbrick building dates in 1916. Originally the private The Swedish Embassy was converted back to 1864. Opposite the church is Svenska residence of a wealthy indus- 27 4 in 1922 to resemble the Royal Palace in Normallyceum, one of the city’s most notable trialist, it later transferred to 38 37 Stockholm. The building was originally completed in Swedish-language schools. State ownership. The interior 29 th 28 the mid 19 century as the Neoclassical mansion of features sculptures by Gunnar 31 J. H. Heidenstrauch. The red granite obelisk commemorates the Finne (1886-1952) and Emil 36 30 10 German soldiers who fell in the Finnish Civil Wikström (1864-1942). Beside 32 War and particular the 123 who perished on the S/S the entrance is a sculpture entitled Habsburg in 1918 while sailing back to Germany. “Lynxes” by Gunnar Finne and erected in 1939. The monument was sculpted by Gunnar Finne The building currently houses the Labour Court. (1886-1952) and erected in 1939. 35 24 34 33 500 m 25 © City Survey, Helsinki 001/2007 1 Market Square, Kaivopuisto Park and Eira

Kaivopuisto is one of the finest parks in Finland, the Cygnaeus Collection was donated to 32 The memorial to A. E. Nordenskiöld (1832- The redbrick church with the tall spire is The Museum of Finnish Architecture in Helsinki. It was created in the the Finnish State. The gallery is open to the public. 1901), Helsinki-born explorer and discoverer 39 named after Mikael Agricola (1510-1557), 45 presents architectural exhibitions and houses Tip! late 1830s on what had previously of the Northeast Passage, was designed by Johanna the father of the Finnish Reformation and Finnish an extensive photo archive of Finnish architecture, as The unique nature of Helsinki’s archipelago and the been wasteland on the initiative of wealthy The is where the (1960- ) and Heikki Häiväoja (1929- ) and erected literature. The church was designed by Lars Sonck well as a library. The building itself was designed by idyllic Finnish summer provide the perfect setting businessman Henrik Borgström. At the time 24 Marshal of Finland Gustaf Mannerheim in 1985. and completed in 1935. Magnus Schjerfbeck and completed in 1896. for eating outdoors and enjoying long evenings. Russian high society was forbidden from trav- (1867-1951) lived from 1924 until his death. The Kaivopuisto Park, or “Kaivari” as it is known elling outside the Russian Empire for political house has been preserved as it was when he died. The shoreline beside the park features jetties One of the most beautiful private houses in The sculpture “Topelius and Children” among locals, is a popular place for a picnic and also reasons, which helped Helsinki develop into The museum displays artefacts from his journeys 33 where local residents can wash their carpets 40 Helsinki, Villa Johanna (Laivurinkatu 23- 46 was designed by Ville Vallgren (1855-1940) stages free open-air concerts. Many popular island a lively and cosmopolitan spa town. To cater through Asia, military uniforms and medals. The mu- and rugs in summertime. 25) was designed by Selim A. Lindqvist and com- and erected in the School Park in 1932. Zacharias restaurants are situated just off the coast, including to the new clients a spa building was erected seum is open to the public. pleted in 1906. Topelius (1818-1898) was an important Finnish his- Saari, NJK and Särkänlinna, which are open from by the sea and an entertainment complex, 34 The granite rocks and sandy beaches of torian and author. the beginning of May to the end of September. Kaivohuone, in the centre of the park. A regu- 25 The embassies of Pihlajasaari Island are a popular attrac- Eira Hospital was designed by Lars Sonck lar steamer service also began sailing between the of tion on hot summer days. Ferries to Pihlajasaari de- 41 in the National Romantic style and com- Helsinki, St. Petersburg and Reval (Tallinn). 26 America, part from the pier behind the round café. Nearby pleted in 1905. Once the ban on foreign travel was lifted dur- and Uunisaari Island is also a great place for swimming ing the Crimean War in the 1850s, Helsinki’s spa 27 Great Britain. and renting a sauna. In wintertime a pontoon bridge 42 On the right is Huvilakatu, perhaps the business declined. In 1886 the park was trans- connects the island to the mainland, or you can walk most notable Jugend style street in Helsinki. The Old Fire Station with its redbrick tower ferred to the City of Helsinki. The spa build- directly over the ice when conditions allow. In sum- 47 was designed by Theodor Höijer and com- ing was destroyed during an air raid in 1944. 28 The top of Ehrenströmintie offers a fine view mertime the ferry to the island departs from the cor- From Tehtaankatu turn left onto pleted in 1891. Nowadays the district of Kaivopuisto overlook- of the sea. In the foreground is the small ner with the inlaid compass. Kapteeninkatu. On the right is the ing the park is a popular residential area among Särkkä Island, which houses legendary local restaurant Sea Horse Following Kasarmikatu we come to the his- diplomats, and the park itself remains very historical fortifications and At the end of the shoreline path is a memo- that dates back to the 1930s, and opposite 48 toric Guards Barracks designed by C. L. popular among Helsinki residents, especially a restaurant. 35 rial for seafarers. The angel with the flame the restaurant is the KOM Theatre, which Engel and completed in 1822-1825. The buildings for walks. Open-air concerts and other major was designed by Oskari Jauhiainen (1913-1990) was founded in 1971. Our walk continues up were badly damaged by air raids during the Second events are also held in the park in summertime. and Eero Eerikäinen (1918- ) and erected in 1968. Korkeavuorenkatu, which has many nice bou- World War but rebuilt in the 1950s according to de- tiques, cafés and restaurants. signs by Viljo Revell and H. Castrén. 19 Kaivohuone still stands in the centre of the From Merikatu we enter the prestig- park. Once the centre of social life during ious Jugend style district of Eira that 49 The Supreme Administrative Court was the spa season, the restaurant – one of the oldest was built in the early 20th century. 43 St. John’s Church was designed in Neo- designed by Waldemar Aspelin in Finnish in Helsinki – is nowadays open only in summertime Further off is the Suomenlinna Maritime Fortress Gothic style by Swedish architect A. E. marble and completed in 1901. It originally housed and for special occasions. that was built on six islands in the 18th century. 36 Villa Ensi was designed by Selim A. Molander and completed in 1891. It is the biggest the headquarters of a bank and was later used by Lindqvist. In front are statues enti- church in Helsinki and has the Finnish Broadcasting Company (). In the 20 Behind Kaivohuone stands the “Tree of The statue of poet Arvid Mörne (1876- tled “Goodbye/Au Revoir” and “The Joy of excellent acoustics, making early 1980s the building was renovated and con- Independence” and plaque commemorat- 29 1946) was sculpted by Viktor Jansson Motherhood” sculpted by Harald Sörensen-Ringi it a popular venue for con- verted for use by the Supreme Administrative Court. ing Finland’s independence. The fir tree was do- (1886-1958) and unveiled in 1952. (1872-1912) and erected in 1912. certs, particularly of large nated to the Finnish Parliament by Consul General choral works. 50 The grey granite Nylands Nation is a fa- Rudolf Ray in the 1930s. 30 On the site of the former Kaivopuisto Spa 37 The sculpture of the Roe Deer was designed mous student union building that was de- now stands the popular Café Ursula, which by Matti Haupt (1912-1999) and erected in The Design signed by K. Hård af Segerstad and completed in The red granite “Fishing Bear” drinking is open year round. 1957. 44 Museum is located 1901. 21 fountain was designed by Bertel Nilsson at Korkeavuorenkatu 23 (1887-1939) and dates back to 1916. 31 At the top of the cliff is the Ursa The square is named after the architect C. in a former school build- Observatory, which is still used to ob- 38 L. Engel and features a memorial to the fa- ing that was designed by 22 The oldest wooden villa in the park district serve the stars. On May Day morning students mous Finnish author Juhani Aho (1861-1921) de- Gustaf Nyström and com- dates back to 1839 and can be found at gather here and in the park below to celebrate signed by Aimo Tukiainen (1917-1996) and erected pleted in 1894. The Design Museum serves as the Itäinen Puistotie 7. Known as the Kleine Villa, it the arrival of spring. in 1961. national museum for Finnish design and features was originally built opposite Kaivohuone for spa and extensive permanent exhibition, as well as many guests. Opposite the street is a decorative wooden visiting exhibitions. villa designed by Th. Decker.

Fredrik Cygnaeus was a leading cultural 23 figure in Finland in the 19th century. His Kaivopuisto villa was built in 1870 and now houses the Cygnaeus Gallery, presenting exhibitions of mainly Finnish art. One of the oldest art collections 26 27 15 6 Kallio, Alppila and Merihaka districts

14 Explore the former completed in 1968 and once housed KOP Bank (later Nordea). The building became the most famous work working class districts of architects Heikki and Kaija Sirén. The diameter of 12 16 the building is 76 metres. The building was fully The buildings in the Kallio district originally consist- renovated in 2004 according to the design of Jukka ed mainly of two-storey wooden houses and neigh- Sirén, son of Heikki and Kaija. The glass-enclosed bourhoods where residents often lived in cramped ground floor in the courtyard adds space and light. 19 conditions. Stone buildings began to Outside the entrance to the Round House facing appear in the early 20th century along with industry Hakaniemi Market is a statue entitled “The Symbol” 18 and settlers from the countryside. As a result, Kallio that was sculpted by Hannu Sirén, the second son of 17 developed into a working class district. The image Heikki and Kaija, and unveiled in 1985. The diameter of Kallio has since been immortalised in the films of of the completely spherical steel ball is three metres. 13 world-famous Finnish film director Aki Kaurismäki. 20 21 The district of Kallio is defined by Helsinginkatu Upon completion in 1965, the Kallio Muni- and the district of to the north, by the 3 cipal Office designed also by Heikki and Kaija sea to the south and west, and by the district Sirén was the largest and technically most advanced 11 of Sörnäinen to the east. There are three main municipal office in Finland. The building, which was 7 parts of Kallio: , the “Linja” avenues and fully renovated in 2004, houses the Helsinki City Social Torkkelinmäki. Services Department and the Helsinki City Archives. 22 With its working class heritage, the apartments in Kallio are traditionally small. Most of the build- The “Memorial to Women in Times of 10 4 9 ings date from the 1950s and ‘60s. Despite the fact War” was designed by Heikki Häiväojan 8 that Kallio is well situated in terms of transporta- (1929-) and unveiled in 1996. It represents the first 6 5 tion and proximity to the city centre, the turnover national memorial honouring and commemorat- of residents is relatively high, as growing families ing the work done by women during the wars of regularly move out to find larger accommodation. 1939-1945. The sculpture contains reliefs depicting Kallio’s cosy apartments are popular among singles, women working at the home front in homes, facto- especially students, young adults and old people. ries, at farms, in various institutions and on the war Kallio’s street corners have also long been favoured front. The female figures portray the vital work done by artists. The densely populated districts offers lots by women during the wars and the burdens inflicted of services; the ground floor of nearly every residen- whilst 400,000 men were fighting on the frontline. tial building houses offices or shops. The district is famous for its bohemian local bars. 1 Our walk begins from Hakaniemi Market, 3 which was originally built on reclaimed land. Since opening in 1897 the market has been a popu- lar and busy centre of local life. At the northern end 4 of the market is the lively Hakaniemi Market Hall, The “Linja” avenues are unique in which was designed by Helsinki’s official architect Karl Finland for using numbers (1 to 5) as 2 23 Hård af Segerstad and completed in 1914. Over 60 the names of the streets, an exam- stalls sell groceries, textiles and handicrafts on two ple copied perhaps from the United floors. The Hakaniemi area is also home to Finland’s States of St. Petersburg. These avenues are labour movement. The granite tower of the Workers’ home to many traditional restaurants and bars. Hall dominates the skyline, and the market square 1 25 serves as the venue for traditional May Day marches and demonstrations. The buildings surrounding the Kallio Library on “5th Avenue” was com- market square also house trade unions and other la- 5 pleted in 1912, the same year as the neigh- bour organisations. The headquarters of the Central bouring church. Designed by Karl Hård af Segerstad, Organisation of Finnish Trade Unions (SAK) domi- the handsome library was the first in Finland to built 26 nates the southern edge of the market square. entirely with municipal funds. The investment was considerable, especially as Kallio in those days was The “Round House” (Ympyrätalo) on the very much a working class neighbourhood. 27 2 northern edge of the market square was 500m 28 © City Survey, Helsinki 001/2007 29 24 1 Kallio, Alppila and Merihaka districts

Karhupuisto Park gets its name (literally Nuuttila and completed in 1982. Thousands of mu- Peacock Theatre has entertained audiences with Brahen kenttä (“Brahe Field”) is a popular In front of the redbrick commercial building Built in the 1970s, the mammoth concrete- 6 “Bear Park”) from the sculpture in the park nicipal employees attend seminars and meetings its variety shows for the past 50 years. 16 urban sports ground in the heart of Kallio. In 21 designed by Väinö Vähäkallio is a statue by 26 grey National Board of Education build- depicting the national animal of Finland, the brown here each year. In front of the building is a sculp- Alongside Linnanmäki is also Sea Life summertime soccer and basketball are played here Gunnar Finne (1886-1952) enti- ing has been called the ugliest building in Helsinki, bear. “The Bear on the Anthill” was sculpted in ture entitled “The Urbanist” by Heikki Häiväoja Helsinki, where over 40 aquariums on two floors and in wintertime ice hockey or bandy. Skates can tled “Co-operation” dating back but its appearance is set to change radically fol- red granite by Jussi Mäntynen (1886-1978) and (1929-). A cubist-style bust of a woman and an present hundreds of species of salt- be rented, and the café is open year round. Up on to 1928. Finne was inspired by the lowing major forthcoming renovations. In 1980 a erected in 1931. It is one of many animal sculptures open hand rest on a granite pedestal. According to water and freshwater crea- the cliff stands the Aleksis Kivi School, which was relief art of ancient Mesopotamia bronze sculpture entitled “Song of the Earth” by in Helsinki. Mäntynen served as the official taxider- the artist, the figures symbolise spiritial and manual tures, including sharks, the largest and most modern school building in and Egypt. Marjatta Weckström (1932- ) was unveiled in the mist at the University of Helsinki’s Department of labour. octopuses and seahors- Scandinavia upon its completion in 1935. building’s courtyard – arguably the only redeeming Zoology, allowing him to achieve a similar degree of es. The 250m³ ocean The new Lintulahti (“Bird feature of the property! accuracy and liveliness as the von Wright brothers tank featuring a trans- The Finnish-language branch of the Institute 22 Bay”) residential buildings did in their famous paintings. parent walkthrough 17 of Adult Education (Työväenopisto, liter- in Sörnäinen represent contemporary Kallio archi- Along the Hakaniemi waterfront can be seen underwater tunnel is ally “Workers’ Institute”) received its own building tecture and were designed in part to attract even 27 the “World Peace” 7 Kallio Fire Station was completed in three unique in Finland. on Helsinginkatu 26 in 1927. The purpose of the in- families with children – quite a rarity in Kallio! statue, which was donated by phases, the earliest of which was designed The Helsinki Deaconess Institute was The Linnanmäki stitute is to maintain and improve the ability of the the City of Moscow and unveiled by Selim A. Lindqvist and dates back to 1914. In 11 modelled after the first evangelical dea- Amusement Park is open to the public from late adult population to operate and adapt in a chang- The coal stacks outside the Hanasaari in January 1990. Not surprising- 1978 the fire station was converted into Helsinki’s coness institute that was founded in 1836 in April to September, and Sea Life Helsinki is open ing social environment. In the 1960s the institute 23 Power Plant are an established part of ly, the statue stirred up a lot of Central Rescue Station according to the design of Kaiserswerth, Germany. The Helsinki Deaconess year round. underwent fundamental changes, and a new State Helsinki’s urban milieu. The long cold winters in controversy at the time and was Seppo Kasanen. The station houses a comprehen- Institute was founded in 1867 upon the initiative Funding Act ensured that 70% of the institute’s ex- Helsinki demand a lot of district heating, which is even tarred and feathered by a sive fleet of fire engines, including the sympathetic of Aurora Karamzin (1808-1902), the Finnish-born penses were covered by the State. generated at the power plant. Helsinki Energy has group of students in 1991. H161, which was designed to fit through Helsinki’s wife of a Russian colonel. One of the wealthiest and 13 A memorial to Finnish actor Tauno Palo can tried to soften the pitch-black presence of the narrow courtyard entrances. most famous of her day, the former maid of be found in the park carrying his name. The 18 Situated at Franzeninkatu 13 is Franzenia, coal reserves by commissioning a work of environ- honour of the Russian tsarina was a major benefac- sculpture was designed by Kain Tapper (1930-2004) which houses the University of Helsinki’s mental art. Architect Sakari Tilanterä’s Vastavalo 8 Perched on top of the hill is the grey gran- tress and supported the deaconess institute also and unveiled in 1993. Tauno Palo (1908-1982) Faculty of Arts. The building was designed to serve (“Contrast Light”) creation was completed in 2004 ite Kallio Cathedral designed in National financially. played more than 400 roles on the stage and acted as a social university by Väinö Vähäkallio (1886- and consists of 56 apple-green posts that create Our walk ends back at Hakaniemi Romantic and Jugend style by Lars Sonck and com- Operations began very modestly with an 8-bed in more than 60 films. With the actress Ansa Ikonen 1959) and completed in the 1920s. Vähäkallio was an enclosing fence around Hanasaari Island’s coal Market, where you can enjoy a nice pleted four years after the cornerstone was laid in hospital in rented facilities. In addition to treating he formed one of the most celebrated screen cou- responsible for many buildings in Helsinki, including stacks. At nighttime the posts are illuminated by cup of coffee at one of the market 1912. The main hall can accommodate up to 1100 epidemics, the institute trained women to become ples in Finland. the former Elanto headquarters on Hämeentie and energy-efficient LED lights. cafés. churchgoers. Local parish members can be buried in deaconesses, provided assistance to the poor and the famous Yrjönkatu Swimming Hall, which was the heart of Kallio, as a crypt was built beneath the sheltered homeless children. The oldest part of the 14 (“House of Culture”) is one completed in 1928. 24 At the southern end of the Merihaka cathedral that is unique in Finnish church traditions. present building was designed by August Wrede and of the most important architectural designs district’s waterfront is a sculpture enti- Kallio Cathedral is also unique in Finland in that it Magnus Schjerfbeck and completed in 1897. The by Alvar Aalto (1898-1976) and one of the best 19 In the first half of the 20th century nearly tled “Reflections” that was designed by Risto houses both Baroque style and French romantic or- Helsinki Deaconess Institute Museum exhibits examples of his redbrick period. According to one every block in Helsinki had its own public Salonen (1945-2001). The piece is part of a larger Tip! gans. Concerts are indeed often held in the cathe- the lives of deaconesses and the history of health- account his inspiration was the flap cover of a ciga- sauna. Most have long since disappeared, replaced plan for the eastern end of Hakaniemi that in- A ferry departs in summertime from the Hakaniemi dral. The seven church bells play a melody composed care in Finland. The complex includes a church that rette pack, and when the building was completed in by even more private saunas inside even the smallest cludes plants and a street café. waterfront to Helsinki Zoo on Korkeasaari by none other than Jean Sibelius; they can be heard was also designed by Wrede and dedicated in 1898. 1958 it was indeed almost identical to the original apartments. Kotiharju Sauna at the eastern end Island. The crossing takes just under 15 minutes. daily at 12noon and 6pm. The 65-metre tall cathe- draft. The building was commissioned by the Finnish of Helsinginkatu has been in continuous operation 25 Helsinki’s concrete celebration of the differ- The service operates every half hour starting from dral can also be admired from Observatory Hill at the From here on a summer day one can catch Communist Party. Kulttuuritalo is a popular venue since 1928 and is now the only wood-heated public ent shades of grey, Merihaka was built in 10am daily from June to August and on weekends end of Helsinki’s longest straight road. 12 the scent of cotton candy and hear excited for concerts thanks to its excellent acoustics. In sauna left in Helsinki. The sauna temperature is kept the 1970s on former industrial land. Originally the in May and September. screams coming from Linnanmäki Amusement front of the building, which is today State-owned, at 100 degrees centigrade in the daytime and 80 de- location was meant to house only office and com- 9 The legendary Restaurant Alppimaa was lo- Park. Opened in 1950, the park is the most popular is a fountain entitled “The Builder’s Hand” that grees in the evening. A traditional washing lady is on mercial space, but the demographic pressures of the cated on this corner for almost four decades family attraction in Helsinki, attracting over a mil- was designed by Wäinö Aaltonen (1894-1966) and hand to scrub you clean, and a “kuppari” (“cupper” rapidly expanding city turned Merihaka also into a – up until the 1930s it was known as ruokala Toveri, lion visitors each year. All the proceeds go towards unveiled in 1960. or “bloodletter”) can be reserved in advance to get residential area. The complex features an enormous or the “Comrade Canteen”. In 2003 the restaurant child welfare work. The park’s landmark is the Ferris rid of any “bad blood”! concrete plaza, unique at the time, that covers park- was renamed Toveri. Wheel, which has a diameter of 34.5 metres and of- 15 The statue of the “Worker Mother” can be ing facilities for over a thousand vehicles and part fers spectacular views from a height of 75 metres found in the park of the 20 The attractive Torkkelinmäki neighbour- of Haapaniemankatu. On top of the plaza are tower 10 The last neighbourhood of wooden build- above sea level. The adjacent redbrick water tower same name. The bronze statue hood is referred to as the “Eira of Kallio”. blocks whose apartments offer unparalleled views ings in Kallio was torn down in the late 1970s was completed in 1938 and used for its original pur- depicts a working-class mother Surrounding the 1920s stone buildings are parks over Helsinki. to make way for the House of Municipalities pose up until 2003. Originally this area was in fact and her daughter wringing the that are perfect places for resting your tired feet (Kuntatalo). At the same time the city lost a re- named Vesilinnanmäki (“Water Tower Hill”), from water out of a sheet. Designed after climbing the hill and before descending again minder of its working class history. The House of which the name of the amusement park is derived. by Panu Patomäki (1949- ) and down towards Hämeentie. Municipalities was designed by Castrén-Jauhiainen- Admission to the park grounds is free of charge. The unveiled on Mothers’ Day in 1996, the statue is a memorial to the hard work endured by moth- ers in the city’s working class neighbourhoods. 30 31 7 Suomenlinna Maritime Fortress

Experience this World The long pink Jetty Barracks are the most To the right of the road is the Ehrensvärd 1 notable building from the Russian period. 4 Crownwork, the largest single group of Heritage Site and lively The barracks were built from 1868 to 1870 as the buildings on Suomenlinna. These long fortifications 1 main gateway to the fortress. The east wing of the form the shape of a crown with redbrick wings at city district barracks today houses a recording studio, work either end. King Gustav III of Sweden laid the foun- rooms for musicians and a kiosk that also serves as a dation stone of the building in 1775. The northern 2 post office. The west wing houses the Suomenlinna façade of the crownwork, its main line of defence, Brewery Restaurant Panimo, where the islands’ is built of granite with embrasures for muskets and Municipal ferries (HKL) operate from own beer is brewed. The building also houses a gal- cannons. On either side of the gateway in the low 3 the Market Square to Suomenlinna lery run by the Helsinki Society of Artists, which curtain walls is a sandstone ornament depicting the year round, and the JT-Line presents different exhibitions throughout the year. Swedish crest with its three crowns. In the Russian waterbus operates in summertime. To the right over the white wooden bridge is era, attempts were made to hack off some of the 4 Pikku Mustasaari, where the Naval Academy main- crowns. The building was badly damaged during the tains the islands’ military traditions. The academy bombardment of Suomenlinna in 1855 at the time claims to have the world’s largest wood-heated sau- of the Crimean War. During the 1990s parts of the na. The courtyard of the Naval Academy is closed crownwork were converted into apartments and a Travel through time from the Swedish and to the public. daycare centre and library maintained by the City Russian periods to independent Finland of Helsinki. The offices of the Governing Body of Suomenlinna is a maritime fortress that was built Our walk continues through the arch- Suomenlinna and two function rooms are situated 5 on the islands off Helsinki under the command of way under the Jetty Barracks. in the east wing. Augustin Ehrensvärd beginning in 1748. At the time The yellow stone building to the left of the Finland was part of the Kingdom of Sweden, and road beside the church park is the largest residen- the fortress was designed to protect its eastern bor- 7 The wooden houses along the main road tial building from the Swedish period. It was built der. The construction project was one of the biggest 6 2 were built by Russian merchants in the 19th from 1764 to 1776 to house the families of offic- undertaken by Sweden, and it was partially financed century to serve as both their shops and family resi- ers. Its Baroque influenced external architecture is also by France. Two years later the fortress was given dences. Today the houses are among the few private exceptional in Finland. One of the first multistorey the name “Sveaborg”, which Finnish-speakers pre- residential buildings on Suomenlinna, and one of residential buildings in Finland, it is still used as a ferred to pronounce as “Viapori”. The fortress sur- them operates a café. residence. rendered to the Russians in 1808 after a short siege, On the right is a redbrick school building and for the next 110 years Viapori was a Russian that was completed in 1908-9. Over the decades 13 garrison. During the Crimean War a large fleet of both Russian and Finnish children attended the Our walk continues past the Ehren- English and French warships bombarded the for- school. The building, which today serves as a school svärd Crownwork and turns right at 8 14 tress for two days and nights, causing considerable camp and hostel, once housed a prison camp, as well the end of the esat wing. damage. The fortress entered its third period in May as the offices of the War Booty Department, a sol- 1918 when the new Finnish name “Suomenlinna” diers’ home and an officers’ club. 12 – the Fortress of Finland – was adopted. Suomenlinna was administered by the Finnish Suomenlinna Church was originally built as military all the way until 1973, when it was handed 3 a Russian Orthodox garrison church in 1854 over to civilian administration. In 1991 Suomenlinna and dedicated to Alexander Nevski. At the time became a UNESCO World Heritage Site as a unique the church featured five towers with onion-shaped monument to European military architecture. 9 domes. The appearance of the church, which is a Today Suomenlinna is one of Finland’s most popu- prominent feature of Helsinki’s view to the south, lar sights and home also to 850 Helsinki residents. was changed soon after Finland gained independ- Suomenlinna is administered by the Governing Body ence, when it was converted into an Evangelical of Suomenlinna under the Ministry of Education. Lutheran church. The present appearance of the The ferry from the mainland arrives at the Jetty 11 church dates back to the 1920s. The church steeple The Inventory Chamber and its mast shed Barracks on Mustasaari Island, where you will also doubles as a lighthouse that still guides ships – only 5 were built from 1778 to 1783 on the shores find a map of Suomenlinna. Our walk follows the three such church/lighthouse combinations are be- of Tykistölahti Bay, the main channel leading into the main route through the fortress, which is marked 10 lieved to exist in the world. Suomenlinna Church is navy shipyard. The Inventory Chamber was severely on the islands’ maps and with blue signposts along popular for weddings. Surrounding the church is a damaged during the Crimean War bombardment of the way. fence made from Swedish and Russian cannons 1855, and the mast shed was totally destroyed by connected by chains that were originally used to air raids during the Second World War. In connec- close the channels running between the islands. 500m 32 © City Survey, Helsinki 001/2007 33 1 Suomenlinna Maritime Fortress

tion with Suomenlinna’s 250th anniversary in 1998, a building for officers was built, which is still used as a with trimmed hedges, fruit trees and flowerbeds. lane at the tip of Kustaanmiekka. The flag of which- activities have subsequently been joined with the can board the submarine to see the conditions in new wing was added to the reconstructed Inventory residence. In addition, flowers were planted around The original site of the villa and pond date back to ever power controlled Suomenlinna at the time was Manege Military Museum on Iso-Mustasaari Island. which the crew worked beneath the Baltic Sea. Chamber. The new extension to the Visitor Centre Ehrensvärd’s tomb. the Swedish period; the pond was originally used flown from atop the Zander Bastion. This tradition Another similar gunpowder cellar is situated on the houses tourist information services, while the old as a reservoir for fresh water, and it had a well. The continues in summertime, when the Naval Academy western coast of Susisaari and has been converted Our walk ends here. You can return section houses the Suomenlinna Museum, which in- Our walk continues through the mas- grounds were renovated in 1873 into an English- each day raises the national flag of Finland. into use as conference and banqueting space. to the Main Quay to catch a ferry cludes a widescreen presentation of Suomenlinna’s sive wooden doors of the long red style landscape park in which special attention was The memorial was erected in 1952 in hon- back to the mainland, or you can stay history in seven languages. building, the tenaille von Fersen, to paid to the views opening up from the curved paths. our of those who perished in the two battles of and visit the many museums, restaurants and On the opposite shore to the right of the bridge the observation platform The park was separated from its surroundings by Continue past the Restaurant Suomenlinna (in 1808 and 1855), as well as during cafés on Suomenlinna. For all the latest infor- is the original entrance to the Suomenlinna naval overlooking the docks. hedges and lines of trees. The Café Piper was built Walhalla towards the King’s Gate. the Viapori Revolt in 1906 and the aftermath of the mation about events and opening times on docks and a large redbrick building that was built at on the foundation of the original villa in 1928. In On the right are the tunnels of the Finnish Civil War – over a thousand Red prisoners Suomenlinna, as well as tips of what to see, the end of the Russian period in 1917 on the site of summertime lilacs, roses, irises and rare plants flower coastline defence systems. lost their lives here in 1918. Victims of an explo- visit the Visitor Centre (see number 5). a Swedish-era repair basin. The building was used in the park. sion in 1937 on on the other side of the for shipbuilding and repairs and also housed the Kustaanmiekka Strait are also buried beside the pump for the dry dock. During the 1920s airplanes The monumental King’s Gate is the symbol memorial. Tip! The following museums can be found away were assembled here. Today the building is used to Continue past Piper’s Park to 11 of Suomenlinna and can be admired espe- from the main walking route. restore ships. Kustaanmiekka Island. cially from the decks of the ferries that pass through the narrow strait on their way to and from Sweden. Continue back across Susisaari Island Toy Museum The King’s Gate was originally designed by Carl and past Piper’s Park and the red- The Toy Museum is housed in an ornate villa and fea- Continue over the bridge to Susisaari Construction of the Suomenlinna naval Hårleman in the 1750s and built in the place where brick residential building on the right tures thousands of old toys, the oldest dating from the and turn right after the redbrick 7 docks began in 1750. Upon completion The turf-covered sand ramparts on the right the ship anchored carrying the founder of the for- hand side. early 19th century. The museum includes a special col- building housing the Café Restaurant they were the biggest of their kind in the world. In 9 of the path were built in the late 19th century tress, King Adolf Fredrik of Sweden, to see the work lection of wartime toys and games. Open in summer. Chapman and through the Höpken Bastion the 1760s the famous archipelago fleet was built as part of a new line of defence along the shoreline in progress in 1752. The inspiration for the design wall into the courtyard. in the dry dock under the supervision of Fredrik of Suomenlinna and neighbouring islands. The in- came from Rococo elements and . In the 1770s On the left of the main path are the bastions Manege Military Museum Henrik af Chapman. After Finland gained inde- crease in the power of cannon fire over the years the gate was enhanced with a double drawbridge, 13 Hyve (“Virtue”) and Kunnia (“Honour”) and The museum presents the defence of Finland dur- pendence, the State aeroplane works operated in lessened the importance of the defensive stone steps and a pier. The ornamental motifs of the gate- on the right Hyvä Omatunto (“Good Conscience”), ing the period of independence. The permanent The Great Courtyard was designed by the dock, while the inner dry dock served as a base walls. At the same time that the ramparts were built, way include a marble slab inscribed with a famous a well-preserved and rather unusual-looking ravelin, exhibition features heavy weaponry used during 6 Augustin Ehrensvärd and built during the for Finland’s submarine fleet. Following the Second the channel between Susisaari and Kustaanmiekka exhortation to the people of Finland by the fortress or fortress outwork. Together they form a common the (1939-1940) and 1750s in the late Baroque style. Representing the World War the area was used to build ships as part was filled in and is now a large lawn. On top of builder, Augustin Ehrensvärd: “Coming generations line of defence. The grey stone sharp-cornered bas- (1941-1944), as well as a reconstructed dugout and first monumental square in Finland, its architec- of Finland’s war reparations to the Soviet Union. the sand ramparts of Kustaanmiekka are Russian- stand here upon your own ground, and never rely on tions are connected by a straight wall with a gate first-aid tent. Open in summer. ture is based on symmetry and false perspective. The historic dry dock is still used today for repairing era cannons with a firing range of up to 8 kilome- outside help.” Bombardments during the Crimean in the middle that was later widened. According to The courtyard was originally enclosed by two grey wooden sailing vessels. Today the area also includes tres. The ammunition for the rear-loaded canons War destroyed the pier at the King’s Gate and some legend, the unusual names were the response of Customs Museum stone bastions, the fortress commander’s house and a working woodshop, sailmaking facilities and guest weighed up to 250 kilos each. In summertime the of the steps. The King’s Gate was most recently Augustin Ehrensvärd to criticism he had received in The Customs Museum presents the history of cus- two concave guardhouses. Upon completion the harbour with café. The grey stone building to the yellow “ukonpalko” (Bunias orientalis) flowers atop refurbished in time for Suomenlinna’s 250th anni- the 1750s. An popular summer theatre now stages toms authorities. The exhibition includes descrip- courtyard served as the main square for the fortress. left of the dry dock is the tenaille von Fersen, the ramparts, a legacy of the earth transported to versary in 1998. The King’s Gate was immortalised performances within Hyvä Omatunto, and the Hyve tions of old and new smuggling methods, as well as Since the early 1920s the Ehrensvärd Museum has which originally housed the pump for the dry Suomenlinna during the Russian period. on the 1000-markka note of the last series of the Bastion houses a Japanese tea room and glass studio. information on the activities of customs authorities operated in the commander’s house. The museum dock, as well as the garrison’s bakery and flourmill. Finnish currency before it was replaced by the euro. today. Open in summer. presents miniature models of the fortress from the The former granary of the old bakery has been re- Swedish period, as well as historical paintings and stored as a function room where conferences, wed- Continue along the main path to- weapons. dings, concerts and theatre performances are held. wards the King’s Gate at the tip of Our walk returns across Kustaan- Augustin Ehrensvärd was laid to rest in the the island. miekka Island past Piper’s Park to the centre of the courtyard in 1783. King Gustav III of Continue back through the Great obelisk in the corner. Sweden himself participated in the design of the Courtyard past the yellow wooden tomb, which was completed however only in 1807 warehouses towards Piper’s Park be- 10 The fortifications on the southern tip of – half a year before the fortress was surrendered to yond the grey bastion wall. Kustaanmiekka are the best preserved On the grass lawn on the other side of The submarine Vesikko was commissioned the Russians. from the 18th century. Named after Swedish Crown 12 Kustaanmiekka is a gunpowder cellar cov- 14 by the German Navy and launched in Turku The Crimean War bombardments of 1855 de- Situated in the corner Prince Gustav, who later became King Gustav III, the ered in turf. Inside is a vaulted chamber for gun- in 1933. The Finnish Navy purchased the submarine stroyed many of the buildings and severely dam- 8 between the Kunnia Kustaanmiekka fortifications can be seen on powder barrels surrounded by a vaulted ventilation and four sister vessels in 1936. During the Winter aged the courtyard. Following the war half of the and Hårleman Bastions, the left of the main path. It consists of a fortress corridor. The gunpowder cellar was built from 1776 War and Continuation War (1933-1944), the sub- damaged commander’s house and one of the con- Piper’s Park is the oldest park enclosed by four bastions and defensive positions to 1778 and covered in turf on three sides a hundred marines saw action in convoys and on protection cave guardhouses were torn down. In the 1880s the on Suomenlinna. One 18th to the front. The fortifications include four back-to- years later. In the early Finnish period the cellar was and patrol duty in the . According to Ekeblad Bastion, which used to be situated along century contemporary writer back defensive lines, making it possible for the up- used for storage until 1948, when it was renovat- the terms of the Treaty of Paris in 1947, all Finnish the right edge of the courtyard opposite the Höpken describes the small yet exqui- per line to engage in battle by firing over the posi- ed and for decades thereafter housed the Military submarines were scrapped with the exception of Bastion, was also torn down. In its place a residential sitely beautiful park, complete tions to the front, thus protecting the vital shipping Museum’s Coast Artillery Museum. The museum’s Vesikko. Following extensive restoration work, Vesikko was opened to the public in 1973. Visitors 34 35 Gesellius, Herman 1874-1916 Järvi, Jorma 1908-1962 Saarinen, Eero 1910-1961 Architects mentioned in Gornostajev, A. M. 1808-1862 Kairamo, Erkki 1936-1994 Saarinen, Eliel 1873-1950 Granstedt, Anders Fredrik 1800-1849 Karhunen, Jukka 1945- Schjerfbeck, Magnus 1860-1933 Helsinki City Tourist Brochure “See Helsinki on Foot” Granstedt, Pehr 1764-1828 Kasanen, Seppo 1932- Segerstad, Karl Hård af 1873-1931 “See Helsinki on Foot – Gripenberg, Sebastian 1850-1925 Kivistö, Marko 1970- Siikala, Antti-Matti 1964- 7 walking routes around town” Gullichsen, Kristian 1932- Kokko, Niilo 1907-1975 Sirén, Hannu 1953- Published by Helsinki City Tourist & Aalto, Alvar 1898-1976 Helin, Pekka 1945- Laiho, Ola 1933- Sirén, Heikki 1918- Convention Bureau / Helsinki Travel Aalto, Aino 1894-1949 Lindahl, Karl 1874-1930 Sirén, J. S. 1889-1961 Marketing Ltd Lindegren, Yrjö 1900-1952 Sirén, Jukka 1950- Design and layout by Ezpa / Katariina Tirkkonen-Wane Lindgren, Armas 1874-1929 Sirén, Kaija 1920-2001 Translation by Crockford Communications Lindqvist, Ludvig Isak 1827-1894 Sjöström, Frans Anatolius 1840-1885 Printed by Erikoispaino 2007 Printed on Galerie Art Silk (170 g/m2 and 130 g/m2) Descriptions of public art by www.taidemuseo.fi (Teija Mononen) Photos: Helsinki City Image Bank, Helsinki City Museum photo archive, Hanna Rikkonen / Tennispalatsin taidemuseon kuva-arkisto, Mark Heithoff (photo of Steven Holl), Katariina Tirkkonen-Wane Maps: © City Survey Division, Helsinki § 001/2007 Aspelin, Waldemar 1854-1923 Ehrenström, Johan Albrecht 1762-1847 Holl, Steven 1947- Special thanks to: Senior Researcher Martti Helminen (City of Berner, Samuel 1700-1761 Ehrensvärd, Augustin 1710-1772 Huttunen, Erkki 1901-1956 Helsinki Urban Facts), Hannele Pakarinen Benois, Nikolai 1813-1898 Ekelund, Hilding 1893-1984 Hyvämäki, Eero 1938- Lindqvist, Selim A. 1867-1939 Sonck, Lars 1870-1956 (Helsinki City Real Estate Department), Milla Blomstedt, Paul 1900-1935 Eklund, Jarl 1876-1962 Hårleman, Carl 1700-1753 Öystilä and Katja Siberg (Governing Body of Bohnstedt, Ludwig 1822-1885 Lindroos, Erik 1906-1980 Suomalainen, Timo 1928- Linnasalmi, Erkki 1908-1982 Suomalainen, Tuomo 1931-1988 Suomenlinna), Teija Mononen (Helsinki City Borg, Elsi 1893-1958 Art Museum) and David van der Leer. The Castrén, Heikki 1929-1980 Lohrmann, Ernst 1803-1870 Tarjanne, Onni 1864-1946 Melander, A. E. 1845-1933 Taucher, Gunnar 1886-1941 information within has been gathered from a Nuuttila, Maria 1932- Thomé, Valter 1874-1918 number of sources, including the websites of Nyström, Gustaf 1856-1917 Ullberg, Uno 1879-1944 the Helsinki City Museum, Helsinki City Art Paatela, Jussi 1886-1962 Vormala, Timo 1942- Museum and Museum of Finnish Architecture. Parkkinen, Risto 1938- Vähäkallio, Väinö 1886-1959 The text is based in part on the “See Helsinki Penttilä, Timo 1931- Wrede, Karl August 1859-1943 on Foot” brochure previously published by the Pietilä, Raili 1926- Helsinki City Tourist & Convention Bureau. Pietilä, Reima 1923-1993 Pulkkinen, Mikko 1940- Revell, Viljo 1910-1964 Riihimäki, Heimo 1907-1962 Ruusuvuori, Aarno 1925-1992

Chiewitz, Georg Theodor 1815-1862 Engel, Carl Ludvig 1778–1840 Höijer, Theodor 1843-1910

Dalström, Axel Hampus 1829-1882 Ervi, Aarne 1910-1977 Jauhiainen, Jaakko 1934- Decker, Theodor 1838-1899 Fabritius, Emil 1874-1949 Jokela, Olli Pekka 1955- Frosterus, Sigurd 1876-1956 Jung, Valter 1879-1946 Jäntti, Toivo 1900-1975 36 37 50 27 33 49 37 48 52 36 44 42 HELSINKI IN FIGURES 29 59 l Helsinki founded in 1550 26 28 34 24 32 39 l Capital of Finland since 1812 23 30 l Population: 560,000 25 47 35 22 31 Population of Greater Helsinki: 1.2 million l Finnish-speakers: 86% 51 21 l Swedish-speakers: 6% 41 l Other language groups: 8% 38 l Foreign nationals: 5.5% 40 20 1 l Evangelical Lutherans: 72% 5 l Orthodox: 2% 4 l Total area: 686 km2 45 l Coastline: 98 km 2 l Islands: 315 46 3 l Hotels: 45 7 l Restaurants: 900 16 15 6 l Museums: 78 l Universities and colleges: 7 14 l Mobile phones per 100 inhabitants: 96 54 l Average temperatures yearly: +6.6°C warmest month (July): +19.2°C 18 coldest month (February): -5°C 53 10 10 11 10 17 8 Finland in figures 9 l Independent since 1917 l Total area: 338,000 km2 12 13 l Population: 5.2 million l EU member since 1995 l Introduced euro in 2002

English

HELSINKI 19 55 56 57 58 Visitors Guide 43

1. Helsinki Cathedral 10. Departure point for sightseeing 17. Presidential Palace 26. Kamppi Shopping Centre 34. Winter Garden 43. Helsinki Zoo on Korkeasaari 54. Olympiaterminaali (Olympic 2. Senate Square cruises 18. Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral 27. Tennis Palace Cinema Complex, 35. Linnunlaulu Wooden Villa Island Terminal) Helsinki - Visitors Guide provides a comprehensive 3. Government Palace 11. Suomenlinna waterbus (JT-line) 19. Suomenlinna Maritime Fortress Museum of Cultures, and Tennis District 44. Swimming Stadium 55. Katajanokan terminaali package of information for visitors to the city, 4. University of Helsinki (Main 12. Suomenlinna ferry (Helsinki City 20. Ateneum Art Museum Palace Art Museum 36. Sibelius Monument 45. Design Museum (Katajanokka Terminal) including sections on most popular sights and Building) Transport) 21. Central Railway Station 28. Kunsthalle Helsinki 37. Seurasaari 46. Design Forum Finland 56. Kanavaterminaali (Kanava 5. National Library of Finland 13. Helsinki Zoo (Korkeasaari) 22. General Post Office and Post 29. Temppeliaukio Church 38. Hakaniemi Market and Market 47. Amos Anderson Museum Terminal) attractions, restaurants, services, shopping 6. and City Hall waterbus Museum 30. Parliament House Hall 48. Helsinki Fair Centre 57. Makasiiniterminaali (Makasiini opportunities, and sightseeing tours and Quarter 14. Havis Amanda statue 23. Museum of Contemporary Art 31. Finlandia Hall 39. Arabia Factory and Museum 49. Finnair Stadium Terminal) excursions. Pick up your own free copy from the 7. Helsinki City Museum 15. Tourist Information Kiasma 32. Finnish National Opera 40. Sinebrychoff Art Museum 50. Jäähalli (Helsinki Ice Hall) 58. Wanha Satama 8. Market Square 16. Esplanade Park (departure point 24. National Museum of Finland 33. Olympic Stadium and Stadium 41. (Cable Factory) 51. Finnair ticket office 59. Korjaamo Culture Factory Helsinki City Tourist Information or download it in 9. Old Market Hall for Helsinki Expert sightseeing 25. Lasipalatsi (Glass Palace) Tower 42. Linnanmäki Amusement Park 52. Central Bus Station 11 languages from our homepage: www.visithelsinki.fi buses) and Sea Life 53. Länsiterminaali (West Terminal) 38 39 Helsinki is a modern European cultural city whose urban cosmopolitan lifestyle exists in perfect harmony with nature. Surrounded by the sea and its own exotic archipelago, Helsinki offers visitors an endless number of possibilities. These possibilities are represented by Best of Helsinki -nominees. They are all distinctive in their own fields and demonstrate various great alternatives to fully enjoy your stay in Helsinki.

Vote for your own favourite! www.bestofhelsinki.fi

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