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DIJ-Mono 63 Utomo.Book Monographien Herausgegeben vom Deutschen Institut für Japanstudien Band 63, 2019 Franziska Utomo Tokyos Aufstieg zur Gourmet-Weltstadt Eine kulturhistorische Analyse Monographien aus dem Deutschen Institut für Japanstudien Band 63 2019 Monographien Band 63 Herausgegeben vom Deutschen Institut für Japanstudien der Max Weber Stiftung – Deutsche Geisteswissenschaftliche Institute im Ausland Direktor: Prof. Dr. Franz Waldenberger Anschrift: Jochi Kioizaka Bldg. 2F 7-1, Kioicho Chiyoda-ku Tokyo 102-0094, Japan Tel.: (03) 3222-5077 Fax: (03) 3222-5420 E-Mail: [email protected] Homepage: http://www.dijtokyo.org Umschlagbild: Quelle: Franziska Utomo, 2010. Bibliografische Information der Deutschen Nationalbibliothek Die Deutsche Nationalbibliothek verzeichnet diese Publikation in der Deutschen Nationalbibliografie; detaillierte bibliografische Daten sind im Internet über http://dnb.d-nb.de abrufbar. Dissertation der Universität Halle-Wittenberg, 2018 ISBN 978-3-86205-051-2 © IUDICIUM Verlag GmbH München 2019 Alle Rechte vorbehalten Druck: Totem, Inowrocław ISBN 978-3-86205-051-2 www.iudicium.de Inhaltsverzeichnis INHALTSVERZEICHNIS DANKSAGUNG . 7 SUMMARY: GOURMET CULTURE IN JAPAN – A NATION OF GOURMETS AND FOODIES. 8 1EINLEITUNG . 13 1.1 Forschungsfrage und Forschungsstand . 16 1.1.1 Forschungsfrage . 16 1.1.2 Forschungsstand . 20 1.1.2.1. Deutsch- und englischsprachige Literatur . 20 1.1.2.2. Japanischsprachige Literatur. 22 1.2 Methode und Quellen . 25 1.3 Aufbau der Arbeit . 27 2GOURMETKULTUR – EINE THEORETISCHE ANNÄHERUNG. 30 2.1 Von Gastronomen, Gourmets und Foodies – eine Begriffs- geschichte. 34 2.2 Die Distinktion . 39 2.3 Die Inszenierung: Verstand, Ästhetik und Ritual . 42 2.4 Die Reflexion: Profession, Institution und Spezialisierung . 47 2.5 Der kulinarische Rahmen . 54 3DER GOURMETDISKURS DER EDOZEIT: GRUNDLAGEN WERDEN GELEGT . 63 3.1 Charakterisierung der Edozeit: Edo, Bürgerliche, tsū. 63 3.2 Teemeister und Bankette . 72 3.3 Kochbücher, Etikettebücher, Moralbücher . 79 3.4 Restaurants . 89 3.5 Kulinarischer Rahmen: tokusanmono, Fleisch, Wein und hatsumono . 94 3.6 Schlussfolgerungen . 104 4DER GOURMETDISKURS DER MEIJIZEIT – NEUGIER AUF DEN „WESTEN“. 105 4.1 Charakterisierung der Meijizeit: Zivilisation und Aufklärung . 105 4.2 Kulinarische Literatur – Aufklärung und Absurdität: Murai Gensais Kuidōraku und Kōda Rohans Chinsenkai . 114 4.3 Bankette, Tanzveranstaltungen und Hotelrestaurants . 124 5 Inhaltsverzeichnis 4.3.1 Westliche Bankette als Zeichen der überlegenen westlichen (Ess)kultur . 124 4.3.2 Dinieren und Tanzen in Restaurants und Hotels . 129 4.4 Gourmetzeitschriften und -Vereine . 141 4.5 Kulinarischer Rahmen: Vom seiyō-Boom zu washoku- yōshoku-chūshoku . 147 4.6 Zusammenfassung . 153 5DER GOURMETDISKURS DER TAISHŌZEIT UND FRÜHEN SHŌWAZEIT – RATIONALITÄT VS. SCHLEMMEREI . 154 5.1 Charakterisierung der Taishō- und frühen Shōwazeit: Städtische Moderne und Beginn der Massengesellschaft . 155 5.2 Kulinarische Literatur – Sehnen nach dem Unentdeckten: Tanizaki Jun’ichirōs Bishoku kurabu . 164 5.3 Kitaōji Rosanjin – Kochen, Schreiben, Töpfern . 172 5.4 Kulinarischer Rahmen – Exotik und Authentizität in China und Japan . 190 5.4.1 Chinaboom. 194 5.4.2 Furusato-Boom und Edo-Boom . 199 5.5 Zusammenfassung . 201 6DER GOURMETDISKURS DER SPÄTEN SHŌWAZEIT – KULINARISCHER PLURALISMUS. 202 6.1 Charakterisierung der Nachkriegszeit: Einhundert Millio- nen Gourmets . 203 6.2 Kulinarische Medienlandschaft . 214 6.3 Frauen in der Öffentlichkeit und Männer am Herd . 220 6.4 Kulinarischer Rahmen: Ramen, Furusato, Edo, Ethno . 227 6.5 Zusammenfassung . 232 7SCHLUSSFOLGERUNGEN UND AUSBLICK. 234 8QUELLENVERZEICHNIS . 243 9LITERATURVERZEICHNIS . 245 10 ABBILDUNGSVERZEICHNIS . 267 11 ANHANG . 268 11.1 Anmerkungen zur Umschrift und zur Wiedergabe von Namen . 268 11.2 Periodisierung. 268 6 Danksagung DANKSAGUNG Diese Arbeit ist die überarbeitete Fassung meiner Doktorarbeit, die im Oktober 2017 von der Philosophischen Fakultät I der Martin-Luther-Uni- versität Halle-Wittenberg als Dissertation zur Erlangung des Doktorgra- des angenommen und im Juli 2018 erfolgreich verteidigt wurde. Mein Dank gilt zuerst meinem Doktorvater Professor Dr. Christian Oberländer für seine wissenschaftliche und methodische Unterstützung während der gesamten Bearbeitungszeit meiner Dissertation. Die zahlrei- chen fachlichen Gespräche, Ratschläge und Anmerkungen ließen mich auf dem Weg zur fertigen Arbeit immer wieder neue Aspekte und Ansät- ze entdecken. Ich danke auch Professor Dr. Christoph Brumann für die Übernahme des Zweitgutachtens sowie für Anregungen und Verbesse- rungsvorschläge, die ich für die Bearbeitung der Arbeit verwenden konn- te. Auch den weiteren Mitgliedern meiner Prüfungskommission, Profes- sor Dr. Dr. Uwe Wolfradt und Professor Dr. Johannes Hübner spreche ich meinen Dank aus. Ich danke auch dem Direktor des Deutschen Instituts für Japanstudien in Tokyo, Prof. Dr. Franz Waldenberger, für die Aufnah- me meiner Arbeit in die Monographien-Reihe des DIJ. Ich möchte auch Menschen danken, die mir nahe stehen. Jeder hat auf seine ganz eigene Weise am Gelingen dieser Arbeit mitgewirkt. Meine Eltern haben mir meinen bisherigen Lebensweg ermöglicht und mir im- mer unterstützend zur Seite gestanden. Besonders möchte ich an dieser Stelle meinem Mann danken, für die unermüdliche Stärkung und Moti- vierung, sowie für sein großes Verständnis und seine fast endlose Geduld während der Anfertigung dieser Doktorarbeit. 7 Summary: Gourmet Culture in Japan – A Nation of Gourmets and Foodies SUMMARY: GOURMET CULTURE IN JAPAN – A NATION OF GOURMETS AND FOODIES Japan has become a country known worldwide for its food. The Guide Michelin of 2011 listed more 3-star restaurants in Tokyo than in Paris – Tokyo took over as gourmet capital of the (Michelin) world. Already the first Japanese edition of the Guide Michelin in 2008 catapulted Japans res- taurants to a first class level – featuring 191 restaurants in Tokyo. This result led to different reactions on the French and the Japanese side: Whereas the French food critics were astonished at the sheer number of excellent restaurants, the Japanese chefs and critics took the result for granted and rather questioned the qualification of foreign food critics to judge the Japanese dining scene. Additionally in 2013, Japanese food, rather vaguely defined as washoku, was selected for the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. These events put Japanese culinary culture on the global arena. The Japanese Culinary scene is self-confident and aware of their aes- thetic and taste qualities. Food and talking about food, high demands on quality and aesthetics of food seem to be ubiquitous in Japan. This leads to an aestheticisation of food into the realm of culinary art and the appre- ciation of the consumer as a connoisseur of that art. The topic of this dis- sertation is the history of the Japanese gourmet culture in Tokyo – regard- ing culture as the community of like-minded people, here gourmets, with common practices and mindsets. The thesis deals less with the food eaten, but rather with the discourse of the protagonists. This discourse mani- fests itself in two aspects: firstly, culinary media like books, journals, tel- evision or popular magazines. Secondly, culinary places, like restaurants, culinary associations or cooking schools. These aspects run like a com- mon thread through Japanese culinary history and the chapters of this thesis. Based on the observation of a ubiquitous culinary (high) culture and the general overall appreciation and high interest in food my research question is whether there has been a development from an elitist to a mass gourmet culture in Japan. The term of ‚one hundred million gour- mets‘ in Japan suggests that a well-defined, elitist gourmet culture does not exist anymore. Starting with the research, I quickly became aware of the surprisingly little literature regarding Japanese gourmet food, let alone gourmet discourse. Even though good food plays such an impor- tant role in the daily lives and gourmet culture shows a long history, there is hardly any detailed literature on that topic to be found in German and 8 Summary: Gourmet Culture in Japan – A Nation of Gourmets and Foodies English speaking Japanese studies or social- and cultural anthropological studies. Even research concerning culinary topics as such are rather re- cent and seem to need scientific justification. Quite the contrary, the Jap- anese literature on Japanese culinary history is abundant. Since the 1960s there have been published plenty of articles and monographs broaching the issue of general culinary culture in Japan. It is rather an information overload, because often the same information is given. However, gour- met culture is hardly no topic in German, English and Japanese literature. Therefore, the main objective of this thesis is to fill this research gap. I am looking at about 400 years of gourmet culture in Japan – a huge time span that restricted me in terms of detailed examples, but enabled me to look at the development of Japanese gourmet culture from a holistic perspec- tive and thus see continuities and breaks in Japanese culinary history. I am working chronologically, starting with the Edo period (1600–1868), continuing with Meiji period (1868–1912), Taishō and early Shōwa period (1912–1940) until the postwar period of the 1970s and 1980s. The theoretical basis of this thesis gives insight into the question of how an average culinary consumer becomes a gourmet. Firstly,
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