Pleasant Memories of Foreign Travel
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES r < Oh O D Q < S3 Pleasant Memories OF Foreign Travel By S. M. BURNHAM AUTIIOK OF "Tub ITiSTonY and Uses of Limestones and Marbles," "PuECious Stones in Nature, Art and Literature," "The Struggles of the Nations." IFllustrateD BOSTON: BRADLEE WHIDDEN 1896 COPYEIGHT, 1896, BY S. M. BUKNHAM. INTRODUCTION. The rapid transit across the ocean at the present time has doubtless greatly increased the number of travellers to foreign lands. Some tourists make an annual trip of only a few- weeks. There may be advantages in such a plan, especially for those who find it difficult to be absent from home and business for a prolonged visit, while, on the other hand, time and a careful study of the interesting objects and places to be seen, in order to derive the greatest pleasure and benefit, especially in visiting the celebrated art collections, is essential. Most of the large cities of Europe attained their full growth ages ago, hence they appear to-day much the same as in past centuries, with the exception of having expanded their limits by absorbing adjacent territory. Towns and cities in America are often the growth of a few years, but it is not so in the Old World, where time was needed for their development. There antiquity is venerated ; here it is frequently regarded with indifference. Mistakes and faults are common to both hemi- spheres ; but frequent communication between the two will in time correct many of these errors, and bring the nations into a more familiar acquaintance with one another. It requires weeks and months to explore and study the rich treasures of art found in the museums of any one great city, for which a special preparation is needed. One should be familiar with the history of the country or city to be visited, and should know what objects of interest are to be seen. He should understand the history of the fine arts, including architecture, and where the works of the great masters are to be found. There are many books published on foreign travel, and IXTRODUCTIOX. another added to the list may seem needless; but no two persons visit precisely the same places, or are interested in the same objects. Persons travel from different motives: some for pleasure and change, some from curiosity, while others are impelled by the desii-e of acquiring knowledge and to gratify a taste for works of art. Excursion parties are desirable for they those whose time is limited ; but the rapidity with which move rendei-s it impossible for those travelling by that method to gain any definite knowledge of what they see, especially in the vast museums of art. The writer visited all the places described, and made the art collectfons a special study, so that the descriptions given are the result of personal observations. The year spent abroad was an eventful one in the history of some of the countries visited, which afforded an opportunity of witnessing scenes that will never occur again. The incidents here described are from a daily journal kept during the visit made in 1877 and 1878. CONTENTS. CIIArXEK I. From Boston to Liverpool. Passengers. The Voyage. The Mail Steamer China. The the Time Incidents of the Voyage. Cabin Steward. How Reflec- was Spent. Sabbath at Sea. Officers and Sailors. at Liverpool. St. tions. The Custom House. Arrival Roman George's Hall. New Sights. A^isit to Chester. A The Camp. Duke of Westminster. Walls of Chester. Cathedral. The Switzerland of Great Britain. Chester The Rows. Abbey. Church of St. John's. Racecourse. House. Bishop Palace of the Stanleys. God's Providence Bridge. Lloyd's House. Pemberton's Parlor. Grosvenor's Westminster. Birk- Eaton Hall. Estates of the Duke of Region of enhead. Journey to Scotland. The Lake Building Stone. England. Its Geological Formation. Rydal [Mount. The Home of Mrs. Hemans. Grasmere. and Rydal Water. Ambleside. Graves of AVordsworth Martineau. Kes- Coleridge. Homes of Arnold and Harriet Helvellyn. wick, "sounding the Horn. The Mighty 1—12 Southey's Home CHAPTER II. Scotland. Scots. Journey Journey to Glasgow. Carlisle. Mary Queen of Trossachs. Sterling. to Edinburgh. Loch Lomond. The Vale Dumbarton" Castle. William Wallace. A Legend. Scottish Lakes. of Leven. Smollett. Rob Roy's Rock. Loch Katrine. Helen McGregor. Interesting Palaces. James. Nature of the Trossachs. Highland Animals. Fitz Roderick Dhu. Callender. Snowdown. Banuochburn. Scotchmen. Walter Scott. Monuments of Distinguished Museums and Art Galleries. The Castle. Carlton Hill. Apprentices' Pillar. St. Andrew's Square. Roslin Castle. 11 CONTEXTS. A Tragical Stor}-. Ilawthornden. Scenery on the Esk. Drummond. Sword of Bruce. Knox. An Interestius: Family. Holyrood Palace. Tombs of the Scottish Kings. Lord Darnley. Kizzio. Queen Mary. Royal Apartments. Private Dwellings. Portraits of Scottish Kings. Holyrood Castle. ^lous Megs. Scottish Eegalia. Arthur's Seat. Agreeable Surprises. Iron Church. Heart of Mid Lothian. Melrose Abbey. Abbotsford. A Valuable Guide. Sir "Walter Leeds 13-23 CHAPTER III. From Edinburgh to London. Sheffield. The English. Scenery. Vegetation. London. "Westminster Abbey. Its History. St. Paul's. The "Whis- pering Gallery. "Westminster Palace or House of Parlia- ment. House of Lords. The Woolsack. St. Stephen's Hall. Historical Events. A ISTational Capitol. Zoological Gardens. National Galler}'. Turner's Paintings. Ken- sington Museum. Raphael's Cartoons. Albert Memorial. Equipages of the Mobility. Parks of London. British Museum. The Portland Vase. The Crystal Palace. Col- lege for the Blind. Bank of England. The Royal Ex- change. Statue of George Peabody. The Mansion House. , The Lord Mayor, (^jmipl e EaiTs^ Covent Garden Market. The Tabernacle. Mn spurgeon/ The Royal Academy. Palace of Hampton Court. Cardinal "Wolsey. Sloane's Museum. London Tower. "Wax "Works. Museum of Practical Geolog}-. Kew Gardens. The Guildhall. St. James' Palace and Park. Temple Church. Inns of Court. "Windsor Castle. Chapel of St. George. Greenwich. Dul- wich. Downing Street. Dean Stanley. Journey to Paris. Dieppe. Admiral Duquesne. Rouen. Place de la Pucelle. Prince Arthur. Notre Dame 24-47 CHAPTER IV. Visit to France. Scenes in Paris. The Louvre. Arc de Triomphe. Hotel de Dieu. .lardin des Plantes. Labyrinth. Museum of Geology. Museum of Comparative Anatomy. Place de la Concord. Obelisk of Luxor. The Guillotine. The Tuileries. The Gardens. Champ de Mars. Hotel des Invalides. Tomb of Napoleon. Bois de Boulogne. The Madeleine. Cathedral CONTENTS. Ul of Notre Dame. The Pantheon. Church of St. Germain. St. Bartholomew. POre-le-Chaise. A Strange History. Au Bon ^larchd. Magasin du Louvre. Palais Royal. Cardinal llichlicu. Communists. Hotel du Luxemburg. The Gardens. Ilosa Bonheur. Statue of Marshal Ney. Palace of the Louvre. Versailles. Places of Interest. The Bourse. Place Vendome. Napoleon's Column. Hotel de Cluny. Gobelin Tapestry. Porcelain Manufactory. Isle de la Citd. Sainte Chapelle. Church of St. Eustache . 48-61 CHAPTER V. Belgium,— Switzerland. Amiens. Brussels. "Waterloo. A Veteran. The Belgians. Antwerp. Cologne. The Cathedral. Church of St. Ursula. Sail on the Rhine. Ruined Castles. Coblence. Eren- breightstein. Mayence. Heidelberg. Its Castle. Stras- burg. The Cathedral. The Black Forest. Lake Constance. City of Constance. The Cathedral. Schaffhausen. The Falls. "U'esthausen. The Rhine. Zurich. Zwingli. Lu- cerne. The Righi. Mt. Pilatus. Uri. Engelberg. The Cathedral. Lion of Lucerne. Glacial Gardens. Ascent of Mt. Righi. Fluelen. Lake Lucerne. William Tell. Vitznau. An Accident. Brienz. The "Wetterhorn, Falls of Griesbach. The Illumination. Lakes Hagel and Hexen. The Edleweisse. Lake Brienz. Boenigen. Darlingen. Lake Thun. Berne. The Aure. A Swiss Sunset. Geneva. Hotel de Ville. The Alabama Commissioners. Lake Geneva. The Rhone. The Russian Church. Chimney- tops. Cathedral of St. Peter. The Arve. Les Bois de la Batie. Prigny. Rothschilds. Chamounix. View of Mt. Blanc. Les Aiguilles. Montanvert. Mer de Glace. Glacier des Bois. Moving Glaciers. Mauvais Pas. A Dangerous Descent. Peculiar Rocks. Martigny. Tetg Noire. Col de Forclax. Swiss Peasants. Leuk. Brieg . 62-80 CHAPTER VI. Switzerland to Italy. Stresa. Lake Maggiore. The Simplon. Napoleon. Brenner Pass. (ialleries and Tunnels. Cascades. Houses of Refuge. The Hospice. Ilaltwasser Glacier. Avalanches. Gallery of Algarby. Ravine of Gondo. The Diveria. San Marco. Custom House. Domo d' Ossola. Gold and Marble IV CONTEXTS. Mines. Montd Eosa. Berniua Pass. Hotel jSIilano. Sunny Italy. Borromean Islands. Sail on Lake Maggiore. Laverno. Yerese. Lake Lugano. The Grande Hotel. Swiss Mountains. Porto. Custom House. Managgio. Lake Como. Colico. Town of Como. Hotel d'ltalia. Cathedral. Statue of Volta. From Como to Milan. Monza. The Cathedral. The Iron Crown. Corso Victor Emman- uel. Milan Cathedral. St. Dionysius. St. Carlo Borro- meo. Theatre de la Scala. San Carlos. Leonardo da Vinci. The Brera. Amphitheatre de I'Arena. Arc de la Paix. The Last Supper. Churches. Arcades. Royal Palace. Certosa. Parria. Monastery. Prom Italy to Ger- many. Keturn to Como. Bellagio. Lombardy. European Towns 81-89 CHAPTER VIL From Italy to Germany. Colico. Pass of the Splugen. Chiavenua. Babel. Via Malo. Chur. Rorschach. Lindau. Munich. The Glyptothek. Barberina Fawn. Schwanthaler. Wagner. Cornelius. Artists of Munich. Exhibition Building. The Propylrea. Royal Palace. Statues of Kings. The Niberlungeu. Lud- wig Strasse. Public Buildings. Siegesthor, or Gate of A^ictory. The New Pinakothek. Munich Gallery. The Theatines. The Royal Vaults. Charles VI. Ludwigs- kirche. The Ijast Judgment. Frauenkirche. St. Michael. Thorw^aldsen. St. Gregory. The Old Pinakothek. Ru- bens. Antique Vases. Loggie, or Arcade. Glass Works. Bronze Works. American Subjects. Rogers. Maximilian Strasse. The Iser. The Maximileaneum. The Basilica. Crystal Palace. Botanical Gardens. Bavarian National Museum. Historical Gallery. Journey to Leipsic. Ratisbon. Fairs of Leipsic. Museum of Modern Works. De-la-Roche. Other Artists. Battle of Leipsic. Ponia- towski. Journey to Berlin. The Swiss. Unter Den Linden. Brandenburg Gate. Monument to Victory. Thiergarten. Museums. Tapestries. Assyrian Sculpture. Gems. The Silver Treasure. Cabinet of Coins. Royal Palace.