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The Best of the Greek Islands

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The Best of the Greek Islands 1 The Best of the Greek Islands Greece is, of course, the land of ancient sites and architectural treasures—the Acropolis in Athens, the amphitheater of Epidaurus, and the recon- structed palace at Knossos are among the best known. But Greece is much more: It offers age-old spectacular natural sights—from Santorini’s caldera to the gray pinnacles of rock of the Meteora—and modern diversions ranging from elegant museums to luxury resorts. It can be bewildering to plan your trip with so many options vying for your attention. Take us along, and we’ll do the work for you. We’ve traveled the country extensively and have chosen the very best that Greece has to offer. We’ve explored the archaeological sites, visited the museums, inspected the hotels, reviewed the tavernas and ouzeries, and scoped out the beaches. Here’s what we consider the best of the best. 1 THE BEST OF ANCIENT GREECE • The Acropolis (Athens): No matter according to legend, his daughter Ari- how many photographs you’ve seen, adne helped Theseus kill the Minotaur nothing can prepare you for watching in the labyrinth and escape. See p. 230. the light change the marble of the • Delos (Cyclades): This tiny isle, just buildings, still standing after thousands 3.2km (2 miles) offshore of Mykonos, of years, from honey to rose to deep red was considered by the ancient Greeks to to stark white. If the crowds get you be both the geographical and spiritual down, think about how crowded the center of the Cyclades; many consid- Acropolis was during religious festivals ered this the holiest sanctuary in all of in antiquity. See p. 172. Greece. The extensive remains here tes- • Palace of Knossos (Crete): A seemingly tify to the island’s former splendor. unending maze of rooms and levels, From Mount Kinthos (really just a hill, stairways and corridors, in addition to but the island’s highest point), you can frescoed walls—this is the Minoan Pal- see many of the Cyclades most days; on ace of Knossos. It can be packed at peak a very clear day, you can see the entire hours, butCOPYRIGHTED it still exerts its power if archipelago. MATERIAL The 3 hours allotted by you enter in the spirit of the labyrinth. excursion boats from Mykonos or Tinos King Minos ruled over the richest and are hardly sufficient to explore this vast most powerful of Minoan cities and, archaeological treasure. See chapter 9. 2 Greece 0 25 mi Tirana MACEDONIA 0 25 km Serres Kilkis Adriatic ALBANIA Sea Giannitsa MACEDONIA Edessa Pella Thessaloniki Kastoria Vergina Stratoni Kozani Mt. Olympus Dion ZAGORI Kalpaki Elassona Metsovo Meteora Ioannina (Kalambaka) Larissa Igoumenitsou Trikkala EPIRUS LLakeake THESSALY Pelion Corfu PPamvotisamvotis Karditsa Peninsula THE BEST OF THE GREEK ISLANDS GREEK THE OF BEST THE Volos Skopelos GREECE Paxos Arta 1 Praveza Skiathos Karpenissi Ionian Lamia Sea Vonitsa CENTRAL Loutra Lefkada Mt. Edipsou Agrinio GREECE Parnassus Astakos Messolongi Delphi Livadia Kefalonia Ithaka Patras Thebes IONIAN ISLANDS Megara Athens Kyllini Corinth Zakinthos PELOPONNESE Piraeus Mycenae SARONIC Pirgos Olympia GULF Argos ISLANDS Tripoli Nafplion THE BEST OF ANCIENT GREECE ANCIENT OF BEST THE Andritsena Epidaurus AAegeanegean Megalopolis AAthensthens SeaSea Mistra Sparta Kalamata Mediterranean CCRETERETE Pilos Sea Githio CRETE Areopolis Monemvassia Chania Sea of Crete Rethymnon Ayios Iraklion Nikolaos Kythira Ayia Galini Ierapetra 3 BULGARIA Drama Xanthi THRACE Komotini Kavala THE BEST OF THE GREEK ISLANDS GREEK THE OF BEST THE Alexandroupolis Sea of Marmara Thasos Samothraki Mt. Athos Limnos AEGEAN SEA Lake Pamvotis GGREECEREECE Alonissos Lesvos (Mitilini) SPORADES 1 TURKEY GREECE ANCIENT OF BEST THE Skyros NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS Kimi EVVIA Izmir Hios Karystos Andros Samos Sounion Ikaria Kea Tinos Mykonos Siros Aegean Patmos Sea Delos Athens Naxos Paros Serifos Donoussa Kalimnos Antiparos CRETE Sifnos CYCLADES Kos Amorgos Ios Milos Folegandros Simi Anafi DODECANESE Santorini To Crete Rhodes (approx. 60 miles from mainland) Sea of Crete Karpathos 4 2 THE BEST OF BYZANTINE & MEDIEVAL GREECE • Church of Panagia Kera (Kritsa, extraordinary power and beauty; even Crete): Even if Byzantine art seems a bit in the half-obscurity of the nave, they stilted and remote, this striking chapel radiate a brilliant gold. Check out the in the foothills of eastern Crete will small museum, and take some time to reward you with its unexpected inti- explore the extensive monastery macy. The 14th- and 15th-century fres- grounds. See p. 422. coes are not only stunning but depict all • A Profusion of Byzantine Churches the familiar biblical stories. See p. 264. in the Cyclades: The fertile country- • Nea Moni (Hios, Northeastern Aegean): side of the island of Naxos is dotted by Once home to 1,000 monks, this 12th- well-preserved Byzantine chapels. century monastery high in the interior Parikia, the capital of Paros, has the mountains of Hios is now quietly Byzantine-era cathedral of Panagia Eka- inhabited by one elderly but sprightly tondapiliani. Santorini boasts the 11th- nun and two friendly monks. Try to to 12th-century church of the Panagia, catch one of the excellent tours some- in the hamlet of Gonias Episkopi. See THE BEST OF THE GREEK ISLANDS GREEK THE OF BEST THE times offered by the monks. The mosa- chapter 9. 1 ics in the cathedral dome are works of 3 THE BEST BEACHES • Plaka (Naxos, Cyclades): Naxos has the Lalaria is neither nearly as popular nor longest stretches of sea and sand in the as accessible as Skiathos’s famous Kouk- Cyclades, and 4.8km (3-mile) Plaka is ounaries, which is one of the reasons it’s the most beautiful and pristine beach on still gorgeous and pristine. See p. 441. THE BEST BEACHES BEST THE the island. If you need abundant ameni- • Myrtos (Kefalonia, Ionian Islands): ties and a more active social scene, you Although remote enough to require you can always head north to Ayia Anna or come with your own wheels, this isolated Ayios Prokopios. See p. 316. sand-pebble beach has long charmed • Paradise (Mykonos, Cyclades): Paradise countless visitors. It does lack shade is the quintessential party beach, known and it offers limited refreshments— for wild revelry that continues through perhaps bring a picnic—but the setting the night. An extensive complex built on makes up for these deficiencies. See the beach includes a bar, taverna, chang- p. 483. ing rooms, and souvenir shops. This is a • Vroulidia (Hios, Northeastern Aegean): place to see and be seen, a place to show White sand, a cliff-rimmed cove, and a off muscles laboriously acquired during remote location at the southern tip of the long winter months. See p. 325. the island of Hios combine to make this • Lalaria Beach (Skiathos, Sporades): one of the most exquisite small beaches This gleaming, white-pebble beach in the northeastern Aegean. The rocky boasts vivid aquamarine water and coast conceals many cove beaches simi- white limestone cliffs with natural lar to this one, and they rarely become arches cut into them by the elements. crowded. See p. 424. 5 4 THE BEST ISLANDS • Hydra (Saronic Gulf Islands): Old- remote beaches to the north. Siros is timers keep waiting for Hydra, with its also one of the centers of rembetika, a handsome stone mansions overlooking form of Greek traditional music with a picture-postcard harbor, to be spoiled. roots in Asia Minor. The Fragosiriani, a After all, even before Mykonos and classic known throughout Greece, was ISLANDS GREEK THE OF BEST THE Santorini, Hydra was one of the first composed by the Siriot Markos Vamva- Greek islands to be “discovered.” So far, karis, and you’re sure to hear its simple so good: Donkeys still outnumber and infectious rhythms many times motorcycles, and the day-trippers who during your stay here. See p. 353. blitz through the appealing harborside • Tinos (Cyclades): The island often shops leave at twilight. That means you called the “Lourdes of Greece,” because can almost always find the table you of the church, Panagia Evangelistria want at one of Hydra’s pleasant small (Our Lady of Good Tidings), with its restaurants. See p. 212. healing icon, also has Venetian dove- • Crete: Whether for its rugged moun- cotes; farm fields set off with handsome tains or its countless beaches, its ancient stone boundary walls; and Pirgos, the remains or its ultramodern hotels, its village of marble. See chapter 9. layered history or its intense people, • Rhodes (Dodecanese): The island of Crete cannot be denied. It is not just a Rhodes has everything a visitor could 1 distinctive Greek island—it is a world want: dazzling ancient and medieval ISLANDS BEST THE unto itself. See chapter 8. ruins, great food, spectacular beaches, • Santorini (Cyclades): This is undoubt- and some of the hottest nightlife out- edly one of the most spectacular islands side of Athens; the one drawback is that in the world. The streets of Fira and Ia everyone knows it. See chapter 10. are carved into the face of a high cliff, • Skyros (Sporades): Winding roads and overlooking the circular caldera left by remote beaches, one main town and a an ancient volcanic eruption and now few minor villages, some ancient leg- filled with the deep-blue waters of the ends and 20th-century tales: Skyros’s Aegean. The site of Akrotiri offers a charms remain perhaps the most elusive unique glimpse into life in a Minoan of the four Northern Sporades. But city, frozen in time by the eruption though the island remains a bit difficult 3,600 years ago. Be sure to find out if to access and not overstocked with this spectacular site, which was partly touristy amenities, Skyros also offers closed to the public at press time, has both a living local culture and some completely reopened when you visit.
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