The Tuscan Cuisine with a Touch of Innovation

3 the contemporary men’s destination issue 08 January 2020

6. wish list founder & editorial director in chief federico poletti Editor At Large & Brand Partnerships Director francesca romana riggio 8. highlights pitti uomo 97 fashion editor rosamaria coniglio fashion editor at large stefano guerrini 10. sustainable fashion: hand picked celebrities stylist stefania sciortino lifestyle editor massimiliano benetazzo art&travel editor miriam de nicolò 13. mankind seen by Juan Castano editorial staff fabio meneghin, marta ballotta art director&graphic designer maria angela lombardi 15. editorial: Let it rain translations charlotte bedford 20. Sileno Cheloni: the artistIND of fragrance 22. all around Florence Visit us www.manintown.com 26. COMA_COSE www.facebook.com/manintown.italia • www.instagram.com/manintownofficial

28. music stories: the Alchemy of DARRN

Italian Distribution 29. gathering of strangers Mepe - Distribuzione Editoriale Spa - Via Ettore Bugatti, 15 - 20142 Milano

International Distribution 30. talking with Guglielmo Miani Johnsons International News Italia Srl - Via Valparaiso, 4 - 20144 Milano

32. the ethical revolution of Brunello Cucinelli Contributors Fabrizio Imas, Enrico Maria Albamonte, Alice Merli, Allumeuse Communication, 33. Claudio Marenzi’s innovation technology Giorgia Cantarini for the planetEX2 Photographers Davide Musto, Alessandro Amico 34. Antony Morato told by Lello Caldarelli

36. at the cinema with Maurizio Lombardi COVER STORY COMA_COSE 38. MANINTOWN talents: italian actor Photo Mario Zanetta Francesco Ferdinandi Styling Giorgia Cantarini 4 5

44. Alef craftmanship without compromise

46. Milan goes sustainable with WSM fashionreboot Publisher DRAWERS MEDIA Via Tartini 19 - 20158 Milano sea son of r a r i t y 020 [email protected] 5 STYLE never without you WISH LIST

by Stefano Guerrini in collaboration with massimiliano benetazzo

A new type of luxury. A more emotional luxury, which, rather than representing a particular social status, displays one’s belonging to a tribe of style – an extended family where everyone is registered in the same fanzine. It reminds us of certain seaside vacations in the This word helps define the retro and old school qualities celebrated by these objects of 1970s, between Ibiza and Saint Tropez, the sandal desire, admired by both the young and the old through a sense of nostalgia for a period with sand-colored suede bands by Santoni - so chic! The Marni shopping bag from the s/s 2020 in the past that one may have lived through, or merely just heard about. An energising and Men’s collection is in PVC with leather handles. revitalising chromotherapy is complimented by excesses of colour with a focus on purple. The detailed drawings of plastic bottles recall Fashion thus acquires reassuring and thaumaturgical aspects, which open up new paths that today’s essential eco-friendly spirit. originate from the past.

The document holder from the much loved Gucci, designed by Alessandro Michael J. Fox and Rob Lowe Michele, in red leather with Horsebit Bally’s hiking style leather bag - depicted by Richard Berstein in detail. Go to work in style with this definitely not just for weekends in the style of Andy Warhol, for electric addition. the high mountains! the covers of Interview. The sweatshirt and cotton tank top by Coach 1941 are the super-cool must-have tributes to the eighties! They remind us of American colleges, a touch of “Grease” or “The rules of attraction”, where the main characters are the cheerleaders and the rugby players. Here are the Sneakers in cotton gabardine by Prada: new objects of desire. 6 7 By Ermenegildo Zegna, the ‘must-have’ technical satin fabric #UseTheExisting with multicoloured spots on a light obsidian purple base, consisting of a soft-shoulders jacket with iconic couture lapels and slim-fit pants without darts. new inputs for a conscious fashion

Falke The German brand known for its high-quality legwear, socks Highlights and clothing, will celebrate its 125th anniversary with a special

PITTI HIGHLIGHTS PITTI presentation at Pitti Uomo 97, honouring its heritage whilst PITTI UOMO 97 looking towards the future.

by Massimiliano Benetazzo

Held in Florence from 7th to 10th January 2020, Pitti Immagine Uomo brings together the most important players in menswear and contemporary lifestyle. The winter edition of the fair will comprise special projects from fashion brands distinguished by their creativity and respect for tradition, with an eye towards the future. BGBL Among the special guest events at this edition: JIL SANDER, is the guest designer of Pitti Uomo 97, Made in Italy with a circular showcasing the new menswear collection, STEFANO PILATI is the Special Guest with his independent economy perspective, BGBL label “Random Identities.” With over three decades of experience in the world of international fashion, confirms its urban calling as it Pilati is considered to be one of the most influential designers of his generation. The unisex brand returns to Pitti Uomo with a TELFAR is the Special Project with a special event where esthetics, look, identity and functionality special collaboration that uses balls are blended together in a unique project. Last but not least Pitti Immagine will celebrate 75 years of recovered from basketball teams for BRIONI, one of the most renowned men’s luxury maisons with a special event in Florence. its creations. Partner of the project is Da Move, the Italian freestyle crew known for PAOLONI presents P Paoloni Tecno Urban its spectacular freestyle basketball, 6 styles capable of mixing tradition and innovation. pitti soccer, bike and unicycle shows. Technical clothing for daily use, where technical fabrics, casual and highlights They are now involved in over formal coexist. Suites, outerwear and trousers designed for a total a thousand shows in more than comfort and elegance without limits of occasion. A minimal urban fifteen countries across Europe. aesthetic empowered with high-tech performance.

Lumberjack The charm of heritage blends with Thermore’s Tagliatore experience, leading company in the development The established Italian brand known for its researched and of sustainable upholstery, to give life to two high- precious materials, exclusive patterns and perfect fits, will present Re-HasH performance footwear, flexible and light to each Re-HasH, the ‘Made in Italy’ brand its collection at Pitti Immagine Uomo 97. of your stride. And all made with the style and soft recognized as one of the major players touch of Lumberjack nabuk, in these two bicolor in jeanswear, presents the first capsule This year Tagliatore gives a nod pieces to ride the waves of the trends. collection dedicated to eco-sustainable to the 80’s and 90’s – a collection denim for Fall/Winter 2020-21. that evolves and expresses Eight garments are offered in three itself through a celebration of different models – the RUBEN and fabrics, shapes and details in HOPPER; five-pockets in slim and full balance between tradition regular fit, and the MUCHA; the and innovation. 8 cropped chino version – each an em- 9 bodiment of careful design study that combines exclusive designs with the best research of materials. Franco Catania Founder of Hand Picked and CEO of Giada Spa BLAUER | Presents Human Landscapes FGF Industry celebrates its twentieth anniversary in collaboration with Pitti Immagine Uomo with an immersive How was the Hand Picked project born? exhibition presented by Blauer at La Dogana in Florence. As a private label of Giada SpA, Hand Picked was The exhibition, Human Landscapes, curated by Felice born in SS19, presenting itself to the public with a Limosani with photographs by James Mollison, will be capsule of 15 pieces and based on a green philosophy. PITTI HIGHLIGHTS PITTI pitti inaugurated on Tuesday January 7th and will be open to the Hand Picked was born from Giada’s desire to op- events public from Wednesday 8th January until Friday 10th. timize all the know-how acquired in over 30 years of activity that had made it a world leader in the luxury denim sector.

How is the brand evolving after the first few seasons? After the launch at Pitti Uomo in June 2018, Hand Picked is now positioned in over 250 stores worldwide with a collection that in the AW20 / 21 season is The Ultimate Woolrich Experience made up of 117 items including trousers and various In honour of the brand’s 190th year, Woolrich returns to Pitti Uomo 97 different tops. with “The Ultimate Woolrich Experience”, at La Dogana in Florence. Sustainable Three installation rooms will provide a unique, immersive experience What are the details that make the collection exploring the multifaceted Woolrich universe and premiering the Woolrich special? Fashion Arctic Capsule, a tribute to the evolution of the original Arctic Parka. The items in the collection are the result of a lot of research regarding the mainly eco-sustainable materials and the style. The production chain of each pair Hand Picked of trousers, characterized by tailored manufacturing, A collection inspired by nature Talents to watch: requires about 80 steps to reach completion with a and its colours, focusing on LUBELLO FIRENZE processing time 3/4 times longer than any other 5 Luca Lubello presents his men’s shoes collection launching pockets. extreme high quality materials, the brand Lubello Firenze in 2018. After have spent more Giada, in fact, has always been attentive to detail, sustainability and ‘Made in Italy’ than 10 years in the business, collaborating with some of epitomised by the pocket bag adorned with the logoed production the most relevant names of the footwear industry, Lubello THE ICONIC K-WAY® border - a distinctive mark of the brand, and embroi- felt the need to create his own brand taking inspiration BRAND PROTAGONIST OF A SPECIAL EVENT dered with a comb point, hand-hammered copper from art and architecture, his main passions along with An event dedicated to the original pac-a-mac, the one buttons and rivets, a grograin sewn inside the button by Federico Poletti design. He wanted to bring in his collection the same enlisted in the dictionary. A journey exploring the history panel, and the label made of appleskin. enlightening power of the first Renaissance artworks, of the brand through the key references of its most iconic introducing innovative designs and rich accessories products, aiding an understanding of the present and Which are the iconic items of the capsule? Denim represents the core business of Giada working side by side with talented Tuscan artisans. access to the future. Giada is famous all over the world for its 5 pockets SpA, how has the market changed in recent so the garment that best represents us is the Ravello years? style together with the Orvieto, however other items Today, the denim fabric, which was firstly used for exhibiting a comfort concept have been a success. work uniform and therefore worn by workers, has become a must have to be worn at any time of the How important is sustainability for the brand? day and in any situation because of its versatility and Hand Picked is based on the eco-friendly concept be- ability to transform from sportswear into elegant gar- cause we believe in the importance of fashion brands ment. contributing to the protection of the environment. In addition to the eco-friendly materials, the different The challenges and plans for the future? 10 stages of processing are characterized by sustainabil- Giada counts on a workforce made up of about 1000 11 ity. employees, both direct and indirect. Amongst our In addition to recycling 60/70% of our water, we specialized and passionate team, we aim for increas- reuse waste materials such as pumice stone (used in ingly ambitious goals and a further reach towards new gardening) and fabrics recycled from the automotive markets where the demand for tailored garments is industry. becoming increasingly popular. Juan Castano photo credit David Sardaña

A highly pop and comical aesthetic with very person- INTERVIEW al humor lends an apparent lightness to Castano’s un- conventional and mischievous works. His strikingly bold and clear style immediately involves the viewer, but is also an invitation for deeper reading and inter- pretation. Whilst his work resonates closely with the LGBT community and is extremely conscientious, an irrev- erent and disenchanted undercurrent suggests Juan is telling tales of his own experiences, which do not always have a dreamy and princely ending, but often remain suspended between the grotesque and the ka- waii.

How was your approach to art? When did you decide to become an illustrator? I think that somehow art has always been present in my life. As a child I always loved drawing, and I ankind seen by loved painting books. I don’t think I ever decided to M become an illustrator, I just began spending more and more time drawing which led me to discover the Juan world of digital illustration. Then suddenly people began commissioning me.

“Waiting” “Urban Cowboy” Castano in exclusive for MANINTOWN in exclusive for MANINTOWN Tell me something about your work, how would wearing a coat by Neil Barrett f/w 2019-20 wearing DSquared2 f/w 2019-20 by Stefano Guerrini you describe your illustrations? manintown Well, I think that my illustrations are a mix of many Talking about style, what is elegant for you? your hometown. Like a place to see, a place where cover artistic influences and styles that I admire: Japanese For me, elegance is something timeless. I don’t think it to eat, something to do… illustration, constructivism, art deco ... and the result is merely about simplicity or dressing in basic clothes, I am lucky to have been born in the best country in is work that combines eroticism and naivety with I think it’s a step further; it’s a talent, something you the world he he he... I am from Spain and was born simple lines and colors. are born with or without - in the same garment, one in Cartagena; a city in the southeast, but currently I can exude elegance and another cannot. spend most of the week in Alicante, a coastal city near In my opinion there is a certain Japanese in- the south of Valencia. spiration behind them and obviously they are What is fashion for you? And which are the es- It is a very touristy city that has many visitors all year very pop. sentials in your personal wardrobe and style? round. Throughout the area there are beautiful beaches Which are your main artistic influences? Fashion has always been present in my life. When I and wonderful places like Altea or La Granaella. It is This influence is certainly more obvious in my first was younger and going out at night, I could spend an very typical to eat rice (not the same as paella), cooked works yet it has never been lost as I have evolved as hour trying on clothes, choosing what to wear that in a variety of different ways amongst many other tasty an artist. As for influential artists I always name Jun- night to ensure I was not to go unnoticed. I have al- gastronomic delights. More over, the people of Ali- ko Mizuno; her work is fascinating, Rodchenko and ways liked to see what is going to take and what is not, cante and Spain “in general” are very friendly. Popova, whom I discovered in an exhibition in Lon- and I usually read a lot of fashion magazines. don, Malika Favre, Sanna Annuka… and many more. I’m not a fashion victim and if there is something Projects for the future? that does not fit, I do not wear it. Let’s say I like Right now, I am working on an illustrated book for Which are your main references when it comes fashion but I do not obsess over it. I’m going to say adults, a kind of sea story, with tritons and sailors of 12 to illustrations? something very obvious; in my closet there are always course. I am also waiting for a children’s book that I 13 In the case of illustration, Maria Picassó i Piquer; her jeans - I can’t live without them. I find them very com- have illustrated to be published. As for future pro- works hypnotize me and convey a total mastery of fortable and I can use them for practically any event. jects, I hope to finish a book dedicated to mythology proportion and characterization. Jarom Vogel; his by mid-2020 and my dream is to be able to devote palette and work are amazing, and Roda’s work is ab- One of the focus as MANINTOWN is travelling. myself full-time to illustration. solutely brilliant with a use of color I envy. Can you tell us something about your country / suit Antony Morato

shirt Let it rain Antony Morato boots EDITORIAL JF London Photography Alessandro Amico Style & Production Miriam De Nicolò Model Alberto Perazzolo | Agency IMG Models Worldwide Make up/Hair Oriana Curti

location Arona, Lago Maggiore

suit Antony Morato

shirt Antony Morato

belt 14 Gavazzeni 15

umbrella Louis Vuitton cardigan In the box

shirt Tagliatore

trousers EDITORIAL Berwich

sweater Canali

glasses Pugnale

16 17 t-shirt socks trousers Marina Militare Borghi Uomo Sartoria La Torre

shirt moccasin t-shirt Acne Studios Sebago Boohoo

jacket belt waistcoat EDITORIAL Tagliatore Gavazzeni Tagliatore

trousers glasses trench Tela Genova Pugnale Tagliatore

18 19

suit t-shirt trench Brett Johnson Brett Johnson L’Impermeabile Sileno Cheloni

He is the internationally renowned Tuscan master

INTERVIEW perfumer: Sileno Cheloni, known for his “nose of truth”. He is the creator of “tailor-made” perfumes famously desired by the likes of Oscar-winner Hellen Mirren and the politician Matteo Renzi, and praised for his collaborations with Gucci, Lamborghini, Richard Ginori amongst a collection of soaps and cosmetics. Sileno Cheloni makes perfume an art that he believes “elevates to the divine”, which puts us in touch with our spiritual side. The perfume gives man an ancient magnetism, a position of power, because he is able to attract and seduce. Perfume can also induce a wake of memories, gestures, fantasies, or can be a criterion of elective affinities. For the first time at Pitti Uomo, Sileno Cheloni presents “Il Profumoir”, a real per- fumery bespoke experience, from 7th to 10th Jan- uary on the lower floor of the central pavilion. For the occasion there will be the opening of the new interior of the new OL’Factory OL’Factory in Via San Niccolo ‘95R, a space where Via San Niccolo ‘95R, Florence everything is special, a living room where everything is magnificent, and rooms that are full of a thousand rarities. Atmospheric essences will circulate the air in What does perfume represent for you? our invisible dress. The nose is the organ with which a place so well-conceived that it will feel as if it is un- Based on which characteristic of the person do we make the most unquestionable decisions: yes or der a spell. Because perfume can define one’s identity, you combine a perfume? no! In many professional fields, in love, in the choice even before the dress, it has the ability to tell a sto- A mood to be achieved. The perfume is a characteris- of a partner or a collaborator. You should then get ry, to express amiability, refinement, rarity, kindness, tic of the soul, so very deep and not perceivable at a the importance of having one made to measure. Sileno energy, seduction and pride. Precise qualities can be first glance, it must be discovered over time. materialized through essences that on this night be The smell that conveys happiness and one that Cheloni a gift to audiences who understand the importance Where do you wear perfume to make it more per- instead reminds you of grey moments. the artist of fragrance of personalised perfumes over the commercialised sistent? Each perfume makes me happy, just because I can scents chosen and shared by millions of other peo- Where the pulsations of our blood are felt. smell it. For me, grey moments are the cold moments ple. Sileno Cheloni opens his magical world to us in that keep me away from the truth.

by Miriam De Nicolò this exclusive interview. Why did you choose to take up this job? I didn’t choose, I jumped on it! My job is pure energy. How persistent is a perfume in memory? In which part of the world is research more in- A perfume is forever, but the magic lies in the fact teresting? What is PERFUME absolutely? What you might that we don’t know. Until the day we smell it again, the The east, where the path of incense, and therefore of have wanted to create. moments are confused within the years. perfumes, begins. The incense that the Three Wise Men brought as a gift to Jesus Christ. How important is packaging? What are the secrets of the trade? As fundamental as a tunic for a monk. Passion and creativity, then a little training, but noth- Is there a living character you would like to create ing too obsessive. I did my training in the best plac- a perfume for? And a historic one? The notes of Queen Elizabeth and those of Mar- es possible: when traveling around the East and in Claudio Baglioni wrote the song of the century, I ilyn Manson. France. would like to make the perfume that the protagonist Violetta and Carnation. 20 wore on those clear summer evenings.I wanted to do 21 Why did you choose Florence? it for the lawyer Gianni Agnelli, I was a fan of his. What is your perfume? Because if the East is the origin of perfumes, Flor- An absolute Rose. ence has been the cradle of it for a long time. How important is it to have a “tailor-made” perfume and why? The important thing is to be aware that perfume is 22 FOOD / HOTEL there are the chefs who make, the and explain serve all the rest for wines and and orders who takes care of day, istaken alone, there the is onlyone waitercutlery chosenthe blackboard on which is different every arestaurant: the dishes are all the components of in the world. essential feature is the informality The says, to be contaminated by kitchens allover himself cuisine isItalianbut that “hasfun”, as the chefThe portions, lowerlarger prices and anenvironment quality ingredients that at the same time can guarantee possible toofferatop-levelcured with proposal, itwas to understandif his essential three years ago who opened Simone Cipriani, mission that chef haute cuisine. A complicated the face of Change For info and reservations seewww.essenziale.meFor andreservations info more informal thanwhatwe areusedto.more informal All around FLORENCE dishes tothediners. ESSENZIALE by Allumeuse Communication For info and reservations visitwww.gurdulu.comFor andreservations info menu.to combinecocktails alsowith dishesfromtheàlacarte who manages Lazzari Edoardo mixology, nowof the hands in cocktail The is bar anessential stop for anyone wholoves raw materialandseasonality. StefanoCavallini tied to the who hasfew dishes butvery Chef the Florentine atmosphere. kitchen isinthe of The safe hands gentlemen’sLondon club, with the place is perfectly integrated a same time fantastic. Although the spaces are reminiscent of the at and real unusual, but familiar commonplace, but unique Andit is with this spirit that the owners wanted to create a instinctive way, inconstantmovement andchange. nonexistent knight”, which life lived represents inacarefree, have calledtheir placeasthecharacterItalo Calvino’s novel “The life and foodwho, notsurprisingly,Pietro and Stefano, lovers of Marco, Marino, Michele, the passion of Spirito, isthe result of Santo of cocktailwine and Gurdulù isa the heart in but also bar GURDULÙ lunch quickly or simply drink a glass of wine at at wine of glass a drink simply or quickly lunch Santino, the smallwine shopwhere you can have here, aplace not to be missed. On the side, Il itself All the best youth, and Florence not finds only, of can dine by candlelight with attentive but informal the side roomswhere you atmosphere inone of andalwayslarge lively roomorinamore intimate that can be enjoyed either with friends in the wines menu offers anaccurateThe selection of andoriginalcut thanks to the creativity of modern a cuisine that bringstradition with it but with a world, this isafunplace where you can enjoy elected in2018 the coolest neighborhood inthe Santo Spirito andSanFrediano neighborhood, Bevitore always surprises. Located between the you already know it. IlSanto It doesn’t matter if every day.every where the link with the iscelebrated products andland and place territory an important realities but which tell of different very two are there inhabitants, 25,000,000 just of shows unexpected excellence. In ColleVal d’Elsa, a smallcity that Chianti just over of the heart Florence in from hour an For those who love there is a place food andthe countryside, visit www.ilsantobevitore.com IL SANTO BEVITORE For info and reservations For andreservations info chef Luca Marin. Luca Marin. chef prtftime. aperitif service. service. OUTSIDE FLORENCE WERECOMMEND www.ilfrantoiorestaurant.com www.arnolfo.com A young interesting and highly recommended trip. but very thathostedthemintheir training.Rising Suncountry witheye an to the suggestions, enriched with international andPietro Sammicheli il Maîtreoffer local cuisine the Chef ColleVal D’Elsa,JacopoPereira of mill, alsointhe heart oil the old of the rooms thearea.In with the excellence of and dreams to combine passion kitchen trying the gourmet two young localboysin who areappearing a restaurant of Next to the master, there has been would require. acomplete experience as atwowant Michelin totry star who those for design great of rooms 4 D’Elsa, Val Colle has,Arnolfo in the same period buildinginthe center of now, years for Chateaux & to Relais Affiliated “fashion”. a researchthe territory, on whenthiswas notyet technique a lotof and high art, compositional combine to able been was that has taken in1986 and the second 20 years ago) is a two Michelin star restaurant Arnolfo The FrantoioThe for 5 years, (the first one first (the 23 NH COLLECTION FIRENZE PORTA ROSSA FOOD / HOTEL Hospitality in Florence has a red heart. This is the door of the 5-star NH Collection hotel, a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio. There are places that manage to combine history and modernity, comfort and design and the NH Collection Porta Rossa in Florence is one of these places. The historic building, dating back to the thirteenth century, which houses nineteenth-century frescoes as well as wonderful stained glass windows has been enriched with design elements and touches of color that make it young and pleasant to spend a holiday in the holiday both for those in to move to Florence for work either for those who decide to visit it for a long or short pleasure period. For lovers of good living there are two tips for an unforgettable stay: staying in the Torre Monalda Suite, the only part of the hotel that has remained intact since the 13th century, and try the Truffle Experience Restaurant a true excellence thanks to the collaboration with Savini Tartufi, historic Florentine family.

For info and reservations see www.nh-hotels.com

OSTERIA ARMANDA 1926 A young all-female reality on the Florentine restaurant scene. Eva and Cristina Sinosini, mother and daughter, The Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation created this tavern where for more than 40 years there has been the historic pharmacy of the Sant’Ambrogio At Il Frantoio Restaurant we realize the dream to match the tradition, the quality, the taste and district, famous for its quality market. Armanda 1926 presents good Tuscan cuisine rediscovered in its the Tuscan typical food to the last culinary innovations. We offer a handicraft production to our ancient origins and combined with excellent wines guests where cultural traditions of the place are matching withculinary experimentation with a from small Italian producers, in a familiar but fresh good balance with the price. and modern taste. Who is “Armanda 1926”? It is one of the mysterious names found on the vaults of the cellar, closed for Our kitchen offers products for all the tastes, from menu for celiac guests and vegetarian to tasting more than 100 years, and today a real tourist site in the menù, to let our clients facing a real “travel” to discover the match between fresh ingredients with heart of the Osteria, where it is possible to even taste an innovation touch and a good wine selection. The proposals of menù necessarily follow the a good wine. Brunch, lunch and dinner, from Tuesday seasonalities of our earth to guarantee only fresh, good and healthy products. You can also enjoy to Sunday. The Osteria Armanda 1926, has just turned events in our restaurant, from work meeting to marriage dinner. 24 one year old and is a place to be discovered. 25 The unmistakable plaques and signs that bear the name on the corners of the two streets that cross Via dei Macci 74r and Via dell’Agnolo 15r.

Info and reservations call 055 073 6469 ilfrantoiorestaurant.com il_frantoio_restaurant From the winter tales of Navigli to the success with music

COVER STORY COMA_COSE

by Giorgia Cantarini

Different but inseparable, complementary to one another, there is no Coma without Cose nor Fausto without California. But who is this magic duo? One half of the musical duo is Fausto Zanardelli, aka Fausto Lama (a name that came from a rhyme about the actor Lorenzo Lamas). Bearded with a sailor’s hat on his head, he appears composed (quite the opposite to when he is on stage), intellectual and at the same time acute and goliardic. The other is Francesca Mesiano, aka California: shaved hair, tattoos, contagious laughter and a sense of freedom that radiates energy. Against the background of a romantic Milan, the duo Coma_Cose tells stories of feelings and loneliness wrapped in the exis- tential cold of their adopted city. Starting from the first EP “Inverno Ticinese/ Winter in Ticinese, on the Navigli” they often cite key places in Milan, such as rotisseries and nightlife spots, but also public transport such as the subway or the iconic trams. Their music was born within the urban contexts of the city, from the secret courtyards to the noises of nights and to the tinted atmospheres à la Twin Peaks. Their adrenaline fuelled live sessions are a must-see around Italy, with a look that is gender fluid and an interesting motto such as ‘Milamo’. We sat down with them to discover more about this one of a kind genre that embraces both trap and deep song writing.

We were the first Italian band to shoot a video clip for Have you ever thought about collaborating with an a Vevo UK format in London, we played in Paris at the international artist? If so, who and why?

Photo Mario Zanetta Mario Zanetta Photo opening of the Phoenix and in Budapest at the Sziget, we It would be a dream to be able to work with rap artists

Styling Giorgia Cantarini Giorgia Styling personally produced our shows and played throughout such as Asap Rocky, Tyler the Creator, the genius that is Italy. We had incredible dates such as the ones at Alca- Kanye, or more Pop-rock artists such as Tame Impala or traz and Fabrique in Milan that were sold out, May Day Arcade Fire ... if we have to dream we like to do it big, in Rome as well as New Year’s Eve in Milan’s Piazza and we never say never. Sometimes certain collaborations Duomo. We have had many radio passages and have just are born from being in the right place at the right time so been awarded two gold discs among many other recent we will not exclude anything. recognitions. Milan is your city, that’s why the MILAMO project Your music talks about feelings, who do you refer to was born? in your songs? Absolutely yes, Milan is the artistic cradle where we start- We refer to anyone that can relate to our path through ed our journey. One of the first songs recited: “Melan- How did the idea of the name come about and what munication and construction on an artisan level. From his/her own experiences. A path that starts from the choly Emo, Mi lamo”. This verse / play on words be- does it mean? furniture to objects, to children’s toys. I like the idea of bottom but shows that with hard work and determina- came a claim that we then put on sweatshirts and T-shirts Three years ago this project was born out of a respective giving shape and colour to thoughts and desires, and be- tion there is a light at the end of the tunnel. and is therefore a fundamental part of our merchandise. “awakening” from a creative coma in which we ended up. ing able to make them tangible. The idea that an object Being a couple obviously reinforces this sense of shar- At the moment we are cultivating an idea to evolve the We both felt the need for an outlet that ended up materi- can make a child fantasize during his childhood has al- ing, but it is the “collaborating for a common goal” that “brand” and take it to the next step, but for now it re- alizing into a music band. The name was born to exorcise ways fascinated me. probably creates an empathic effect on what we do. mains a work in progress. that period and all the things (cose) that had to do with it. I would have also liked to do sculpture, or painting. Who What is your relationship with fashion? What are your future plans? knows, maybe today or tomorrow I’ll start. 26 If you hadn’t become a successful band what would We are curious and fascinated by fashion and have per- We are working on several fronts and will release some 27 you have done when you were grown up? Can you tell us the most important goals of 2019? sonally taken care of every aspect of the project from new tracks however we want to do it by building a project Fausto - I would have probably travelled more. I did It has been an incredible year; we released our first album day one including the aesthetics by trying to build a look around it, that for now is “top secret”. We have collabo- many jobs including bricklaying, waiting and bartending, “Hype Aura” which has had an excellent response and that was as coherent as possible. rations at stake with music producers of a certain caliber, shop assisting ... in short, any job that provided enough we have made many exceptional hosts including “Deejay In the last year several brands have contacted us, and we and perhaps a minitour before the release of the next al- to allow me to travel as much as possible. Chiama Italia”, RTL and a special on Lucio Battisti for hope in the future we will be able to carry on interacting bum which will hopefully see the light at the end of this California - Probably something that has to do with com- Rai Uno. with edgy brands. year / beginning of next. Asian Fake Gathering of Strangers Darrn + Gemitaiz + Venerus Photos by Luke Palmer styling by Giorgia Cantarini

MUSIC mended a boy to us who he said was a strong composer special thanks to Scotch & Soda who could sing our music. We met and a week later we had already finalized a song (which will never come out).

What is the origin of the name DARRN? It has no specific meaning. Before we met, Dario published some tracks in English on YouTube with the name Darren; a nickname originating from school. When we decided to work together the difficulty was putting together three different heads to find a name. At the time we went to mix our music at Stabber (a Ital- ian music producer ndr). He simply gave us the sugges- tion to continue using that name and we for copyright reasons (since there is already a Darren making music in the world) we take out the E. The same problem that The Weeknd had with his name. Then if you go to the Urban Dictionary and type Darren you can read some- The Manchester based band were indeed five strangers usic tories thing like: “A good looking, intelligent, straight individ- who gathered in the city in September 2015 to be- M S : ual who is known for partying hard and getting all the gin their musical study. Hailing from Birmingham,

the Alchemy of ladies” lol. So we love it and decided to keep DARRN. Scunthorpe and Carlisle, over the next 3 years Conor Rabone (23 vocals) Tom Wingate (22 guitar) Bruce Gathering Which artists are inspiring you? Higgs (23 bass/keys) Peter Crampsey (24 drums) DARRN James Blake, The Weeknd with his “Trilogy”, Frank and Andre Ilkiw (22 guitar/bass) all came from dif- We chat with DARRN a new rising music Ocean with “Blond” and “Endless” and also Sam- ferent musical and cultural backgrounds. Since moving of Strangers band, born in Rome in 2015, who recently pha with “Process”. And recently we are in love with to Manchester and meeting at ‘BIMM’ music college From Manchester to the world: launched the new EP “Chimica” Crush by Floating Points they developed their style taking in many musical influ- the rise of indie rock ences to create a sound that is unique, far from other How was your “Chemistry” EP is born? infamous comparisons (do the Gallagher brothers ring by Giorgia Cantarini by Federico Poletti By CHEMISTRY we mean something that can join any bell?) and that boasts about a new course for indie How did you meet? - and is physically created by the release of serotonin rock. The name is also a homage to the work of light Conor says: “We came together to study in Manchester and We met in two different moments. The first to know and dopamine - but it can also divide, when these sub- artist Nathan Coley, and ‘Gathering of Strangers’ is in now consider it our adopted home. We are currently writing our each other were the two producers [Cristian and Den- stances are missing. CHEMISTRY is the difficulty in fact a light work that welcomes the Gallery Entrance at most forward thinking and power-driven music to date and plan nis], through a mutual friendship, at the age of 18. We finding a perfect balance between two people, from Whitwork Park in Manchester. to express ourselves even further as we grow and move forward”. both wanted to throw ourselves into creating something the balance between rational and irrational. The chem- The boys were all fans of this artwork and asked for Their First release ‘Nice Hair’ (June 2018) set the together, in order to escape from that teenage trap of istry to which we refer to is the essence of our person- permission to use it as the name of the band. What tone and the follow-up ‘Lady’ (March 2019) brought doing covers of Green Day or Evanescence in horrible alities, which continually collide and can create new makes them special, besides the artistic reference and them much attention having worked with Neal ‘X’ rehearsal rooms (we still went through that phase, there matter, or choose whether to wander alone in search the good looks? They write anthemic songs that scream Whitmore (Marc Almond/Sigue Sigue Sputnik), Cen- is no escape). At first, we did some sort of strange pro- of an alternative solution. The EP is going well. The passion and a sound that feels like a velvet touch. zo Townshend (Decoy studios) to mix and Frank Ark- gressive rock. We almost immediately took a break from fact is that before numbers, we would like to see what Over the coming years regular shows across the city wright (Abbey Road) to master. With the power and that period. After a year, however, we were back together the audience’s response is when we do live concerts – and around the UK saw the five-piece build a cult fol- rawness of 70’s inspiration, ‘Lady’, their most famous in the room looking for more electronic sounds and a that is the most important moment for us. So as soon lowing of avid fans who ‘couldn’t get enough’ of their hit has all the flair of the old classics yet with a deep- more intimate dimension, to create a type of music that as we start playing around we will let you know. captivating symphonies alongside the energy and pas- ly modern twist. Their easy-going attitude made it a would satisfy us. It was 2014/2015 and the trap transi- sion that exuded from their electric presence on stage. pleasure to meet with them for this exclusive editorial tion was taking place in Italy. We wanted to follow that Your plans for the future and dreams in the drawer Conor’s voice is deep and warm, the melody is fluid, and a lot of fun to watch on stage. They are contempo- wave a little, but in a much more personal way, creating For now we are working on new music and we are melancholic and psychedelic at the same time. A new rary rockstars that are humble, kind and respectful with 28 our own sound. Dennis (the producer) was enrolled in creating a live show that makes the most of the inti- rhythm that is intoxicating without question. Behind anyone they find in their path, whether it’s the press, 29 some singing lessons at the time and made his teacher mate dimension of the tracks of CHIMICA. A dream this route to success (their record ‘Lady’ was record of their fans or other musicians. These extremely talented listen to the music we made. At the time we were looking is certainly to be able to write an album around the the week on local radios in December 2019) they have young boys have now set their sights on the rest of the for someone who could talk to our musical world. Dar- world: go to the studio in Tokyo or Berlin, record five very different personalities and each draw from world and we are confident they will conquer a wider io (the singer) was attending the same lessons with the something in Bangkok and mix everything at Jeff El- separate and personal musical influences, which in turn audience. Good music, style and savoir-faire, all at once. same teacher, who acted as an intermediary. He recom- lis’ in Los Angeles. In fact, it’s still a dream… effects how they write music as a collective. Watch this space. Guglielmo Miani President and CEO Larusmiani

A journey started in 1922...with Guglielmo Miani family, who assumed the position of managing direc- of the Larusmiani boutique on via Montenapoleone 7. INTERVIEW Senior, a tailor specialized in hand-sewn coveralls tor, to then be elected president five years later. Inaugurated in 1954 and later renovated by the London and raincoats - waterproof like the wings of a seagull; Passion and determination alongside a textile and architect David Collins, it is the oldest pret-à-porter Larus in Latin. It seemed it was destiny that this ad- haute couture know-how ingrained in his family’s shop on Via Montenapoleone. venture was going to take flight. From the very first DNA have insured his reign as number one in the An area of 700 square meters spread over three floors model, a precise target was being identified, defined company sine 2010. Furthermore, Miani is president immerses you in a universe of excellence, made up of by gentleman adopting a continuous evolution of of the Montenapoleone District (the fashion district of works of art, vintage watches and old books where La- style through an appreciation of contemporary in- Milan), which brings together 150 international luxury rusmiani garments can be touched by hand. Expand- fluences. Boutiques arrived significantly quickly, and brands, and he is also a member of the Confcommer- ing outside the boundaries of the company’s birthplace from 1939 until the 1960s, four spaces were opened cio Council, a representative body of more than 700 was an inevitable and natural step. between Via Montenapoleone, Via Manzoni, Galleria thousand businesses engaged in trade and tourism in The summer boutique in Porto Cervo, Sardinia, and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. They were strate- Italy. With the generational leap, new business objec- opened four years ago, followed by a store in the Swiss gic points from which the milestone of the Milanese tives that focus on the clothing offer have emerged. Alps in Saint Moritz. The second step towards a more Fashion District will have come to life. The sophisticated approach directed towards true lux- international presence saw partnerships in the luxury Meanwhile, success was visible in the entertain- ury is symbolized by the seagull, embroidered inside hotel sector for the opening of stores on the Caribbean ment world: the founder had become friend and out- jackets and coats as an emblem of accolade and excel- island of Saint Barth and in Paris in 2019, the year in fitter of celebrities such as Buster Keaton, Totò and lence. In 2015, heritage was strengthened by the histor- which the maison also landed a spot in the Métropole Charlie Chaplin, while in 1970 he was awarded as the ic Aldo Lorenzi cutlery being integrated into the spaces shopping center of Monte-Carlo. largest importer of the English textile industry. Three years later his son Riccardo became CEO, starting a strong investment in the textile division with hand- Larusmiani: made collections entirely made in Italy; at the end of a handmade story the 80’s the headquarter near the store was inaugurated, while the brand was beginning to position itself born in the heart as one of the key suppliers of high-quality fabrics for of Milan fashion designers from all around the globe. Nowa- The oldest sartorial brand in via days, 2 million meters per year are sold in natural fib- Montenapoleone, now led by the third ers such as cashmere, vicuna, linen, cotton and silk, generation, has positioned itself as one produced between Como, Varese and Biella. point of reference for Made in Italy Clothes and accessories are created in the Tailor craftsmanship. shop in Tuscany by a special team of artisans. In 2006 the focus was turned towards Guglielmo

by Alice Merli Miani, representative of the third generation of the

30 31

Fall/Winter 19-20 Brunello Cucinelli Claudio Marenzi Ph credit Valentina Sommariva CEO Herno

He is the king of cashmere produced in the ancient Teamwork is the key to achieve the maximum for the INTERVIEW Umbrian village of Solomeo, whose revolutionary company’s eco-sustainable projects inspired by the en- entrepreneurial system defends and promotes the chantment of Lake Maggiore. President and CEO of values of culture, tradition and above all human dig- Herno, one of the leading companies in the Italian fashion nity. A particular cultural focus is highlighted along- system, boasts a history of more than seventy years, and side the importance of using free time constructive- Claudio Marenzi is a reference point for what concerns ly with a well-defined limit to working hours. It is innovation and market growth in our country. It is no co- strongly advised that from 17:00 onwards one must incidence that he is the President of Pitti Immagine and not to answer emails and business calls, and instead Confindustria Moda where 66,000 ‘Made in Italy’ compa- dedicate the time to everything that can deeply enrich nies converge, belonging to all the production chains of the mind and soul. “The tasks of the craftsman and the fashion and accessories, which together generate a turno- worker are hard and repetitive. And if I make you work ver of 95.5 billion euros. after hours, I steal your soul. Besides, creativity is only where At Pitti Uomo 97, technological innovation confirms beauty is”. its focus and without a doubt is the secret to the compa- Along with achieving a well-deserved honorary ny’s success and the backbone along which their slogan degree in philosophy, Cucinelli is the master of “functionality beyond aesthetics” runs tirelessly. And with credible elegance, a true advocate of ‘Made in Ita- what, if not with the Herno Laminar ABSOLUTE, a trail ly’ around the world, and placed third in the Gq Uk running shoe but with a picturesque urban look. Made in ranking for men dressed with class. Gore-Tex with a Vibram Megagrip sole, which, thanks to His product; a true case of excellence, combined its high-performance grip, guarantees maximum stability The ethical with his entrepreneurial methods, have enabled Cu- on any terrain. An objective achieved thanks to teamwork Claudio revolution of cinelli to achieve incredible goals even in the most within S.C.A.R.P.A, a leading company in the sector. difficult period of crisis for the Italian economy, with The strong point, in fact, of an entrepreneur like him a further 9% profit growth in 2019. A modern-day is to be able to recognize the best of Italian excellence Marenzi’s Brunello hero whose interests extend far beyond business; his in order to create partnerships capable of producing real innovation Brunello Cucinelli and Federica Cucinelli Foundation innovations ready to outperform the market. technology are constantly engaged in the restoration of the three But a successful company can no longer disregard the Cucinelli most symbolic monuments of Norcia: The Civic environmental needs of the planet, needs that are also for the planet His humanistic capitalism has Tower, the Theatre and the Museum of Castellina. heavily requested by users who are revealing themselves changed the way of doing business “There is a need to have more courage to give people a signal of as being increasingly aware and responsible for the planet. by Rosamaria Coniglio through the support of culture hope” said the entrepreneur, always working with the And here’s the real revolution: 2 duvets (a bomber and a and free time. best interests of others at heart because, paraphras- coat) completely biodegradable - it takes just 5 years to be 100% regenerated nylon produced with used fishing nets ing a quote from Kant, there is no beauty without completely disposed of, accessories and feather padding and carpet waste destined for landfill, and even the pad- by Rosamaria Coniglio moral good. included. In addition to these exceptional projects, the ding is obtained from disused duvets. Furthermore, a pea- company proposes 2 other green ideas that pay attention coat and a coat are elegantly woven from melange wool, to the yarns: a parka, a coat and a blazer in ECONYL® also recycled from waste materials.

Herno Globe Herno Laminar Assoluto Pitti Immagine Uomo 97 Pitti Immagine Uomo 97 AW 2020-2021 AW 2020-2021 Econyl Regenerated Nylon

32 33

Pierfrancesco Favino Stefano Accorsi in Brunello Cucinelli in Brunello Cucinelli European Film Awards 2019 Raffaele Caldarelli president and creative director of Antony Morato

Tell us about your professional background be- INTERVIEW fore Antony Morato I started working on women managing a structure that produced collections for other companies, this helped me a lot in understanding the needs of contemporary fashion and the innovations in terms of materials, combinations of fabrics and details of the finished product. When I founded Antony Morato in 2007, I felt the need to create an individual project: I transferred the knowledge acquired from the experience with the female market adapting it to the needs of contemporary male fashion by developing my personal vision of fashion.

How did you launch the brand and which philosophy best describes it? Given my previous experiences, it would have been natural and logical to start with women’s clothing, but when I launched the brand, I realized by conduct- ing a market analysis, that in men’s fashion what was missing was a concept that had been already rooted in women’s: the smart luxury. A ‘democratic fashion’ with a product rich in fashion contents, typical of the world of luxury. This is why I decided to take the opportunity that the market offered at the time by pro- posing a brand that could bring the most demanding male consumers closer to fashion.

Antony Which are the most iconic and recognizable gar- How is the brand evolving internationally? brand’s heritage, with the Timeless line, which offers ments of your brand After 12 years of gradual growth we now want to contemporary elegance, made of minimal and refer- More than a single garment, I would speak of an ap- strengthen the markets in which we are already pres- ences to the retro world. Morato proach to the total look I like to propose in each col- ent - such as Italy, Spain, the Netherlands, Germany, lection and that well defines the brand’s identity and France, China and India - in order to increase and What can you tell us for 2020? told by aesthetics. I refer to the concept of “Soft Tailoring” consolidate brand awareness and sales potential. Our main goal is to shorten the distance between which consists in combining a pair of tailored trou- A further goal for the next few years is to guarantee brand and consumer more and more. Precisely for sers with a t-shirt or a pair of sneakers. In this context, complete sustainability at any company level: we have this reason we thought of giving life to a new way of Lello the casual garment is the ingredient that “softens” already started with an ecological approach to indus- presenting our collections that is innovative and that the formality of a classic look, giving a contemporary try 4.0 by creating a new logistics hub in Piacenza represents a moment of encounter between stake- touch to the final proposal. that is completely eco-sustainable and represents an holders and the final consumer. On January 7, 2020 Caldarelli avant-garde in the sector as it has a low environmen- we will host an evening dedicated to the combination A total look brand that What is the added value of being an Italian brand? tal impact guaranteed by the production of energy of tradition and modernity. is growing internationally. DNA and Italian heritage, seen as consolidated tra- through magnetism. At the Auditorium Santo Stefano al Ponte, we will ditions and cultural roots in the fashion industry, in- unveil the new autumn collection in an unusual way: fluence each Antony Morato collection in terms of A small preview on the next collection a videomapping representation in which the contem- by Federico Poletti 34 respect for an elegant and unique style and a specific The fall winter 2020/2021 collection reinvents the porary and underground mood, typical of the brand’s 35 taste on the wearability and workmanship of the gar- metropolitan look thanks to a mix of innovation heritage, will be reinterpreted thanks to details and ments. Naples, in particular, is also one of the most and reinterpretation of the brand’s DNA. Spacing inspirations that refer to the tailoring tradition of the cosmopolitan cities and our international DNA, open between four fashion themes, each with a precise in- past. A new project that we hope will have continuity to new trends, originates precisely from this cultural spiration - from punk / grunge to sartorial sport in for the coming seasons. and social melting-pot. a college key - the collection does not renounce the photo credit Leonardo Bertuccelli

CINEMA Whilst the Italian actor, Maurizio Lombardi, was born in Florence, it is not a simple task identifying him geographically because of a very international profile and a high demand from directors of the same caliber as Paolo Sorrentino. From January 10th we will see him starring in “The New Pope”, alongside Jude Law and John Malkovich, as well as the third season of “Riviera” – all on SKY.

You are used to working with large productions, how was working on the new Pope Set? I don’t want to use too pompous terms, but there is little to do, Paolo is truly a champion in all respects. It is astonishing how much control he has on the set, and more over the trust and esteem he places towards at the cinemawith his team who is better oiled than a Swiss watch. He speaks very little and does not impose anything upon the actors, instead, it is as if he knows that Maurizio whoever orbits him can do their job adequately and therefore further instruction would be superfluous.

Lombardi How did Sorrentino choose you? by Fabrizio Imas It is all thanks to Annamaria Sambucco, a phenomenal Italian casting director who has great taste and above all, is extremely prepared. She had already proposed me to Paolo for “The great beauty” but for unknown reasons, I was not chosen. Maybe because on that occasion I had been more concerned with interviewing him as I was so mesmerized and curious to know about him!

What evolution of your character we must expect? I was surprised by my ambiguous character because he is a cardinal, but at the same time in love, and as we all know love can lead to dangerous borders. We will have to see if this love will lead to something or not, but I cannot reveal any more otherwise the viewers have too much information in their hands. On set of The New Pope

The third season of “Riviera” always on sky is also arriving, tell me something about this project. I can tell you that it was an incredible personal and emotional journey since the shooting took place in Venice in parallel with the presentation of “The new pope” at the Venice Film Festival. Going from the red carpet with Sorrentino, and then PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO 97 36 07 - 10 Gennaio 2020 37 being picked up by a taxi to shoot with another inter- FIRENZE Fortezza da Basso national cast inside a crazy palace in Venice, to then re- turn to the Lido for interviews, made it really hard to Padiglione Centrale stay calm. The beauty of it is that I didn’t know Riviera Piano Inferiore Corridoio T 3 - 5 / U 6 therefore it was fantastic to be amazed by the glamor and the fashion side of the series.

The Nest F.Cavallin, M.Lombardi MANINTOWN Talents: italian actor

total look

EDITORIAL Corneliani

neckerchief vintage from Francesco Archivio Guerrini Ferdinandi Photography Davide Musto Stylist Stefano Guerrini Grooming Domenico Mastrodicasa Photographer’s assistants Federico Taddonio and Dario Tucci Stylist’s assistant Elisa Maria Montanaro and Greta Tedeschi Talent Francesco Ferdinandi @Alex Pacifico Thanks Palazzo Brancaccio-Spazio Field

jacket 38 Skill Officine 39

shirt Karl Lagerfeld Denim

total look Manuel Ritz Jacket Danilo Paura

trousers Lardini

scarf vintage Pucci from EDITORIAL Archivio Guerrini

40 41

total look Gabriele Pasini 42 RUBRICA Jacob Cohën neckerchief Christian Pellizzari Jacket FORTHE DECIDEDLY UNORDINARY (bottom right) Royal Mansour Marrakech, Marrakech, Morocco Hideaway, Elmau,Germany(bottomleft); Schloss ElmauLuxurySpaRetreat &Cultural Tangará, OetkerCollection,SaoPaulo, Brazil (topright); Ritz Paris, Paris, France (topleft);Hotel Palácio AT US WITH EXPLORE LHW.COM stay.enhance every to accessandbenefits offering exclusive loyalty our guest program, Club, of Leaders Make eachstay memorableasamember theexpected. goes beyond travelpassionate that hoteliers,forluxury deliveredby experiences immersive cultural more than400independenthotelsoffer From toopulenticons,our modernretreats

43 Alessia Auriemma and Tiziano Colasante founders of ALEF Bags

How do you develop the men’s and women’s col- How is the brand evolving in the near future? INTERVIEW lections? ALEF has currently seen development especially lot of visibility. Our goal is to further expand our in- Each collection is born primarily from market and abroad, thanks to its presence in international shops ternational network, but also to develop our presence extensive trends research. The search for shapes and and a corner shop in New York City (Wooster Street). in our country. That’s why for 2020 we will open a volumes stands for that each individual item is de- Our communication activity has been influenced by flagship store in the heart of Milan’s luxury street Via signed for a specific target, which is very transversal. the digital media, so we started developing many col- della Spiga. This is a great step for us that confirms Our woman customer is a woman who still feels a laborations with influencers at an international level. our commitment to implement our local presence, little princess like and loves to play with accessories Last year we also created a capsule collection for Chi- but also with the aim of placing ALEF on the market and colours. A lover of beauty and quality, who wants ara Ferragni’s The Blond Salad, which also gave us a as a new brand of excellence in Italian leather goods. to give a twist to her look in a personal way. The Alef man could be called an urban classic. He loves the contamination of styles, perhaps wearing nonchalant- ly a typical large mountain backpack or a duffle bag in Alef the city even if he is not traveling. The research that craftmanship is carried out ranges from the type of materials, to Alef is the beginning, symbol of Energy, force, continuity, stability. It the colours and details, such as the weaving that has is also the center from which the thought form radiates. without been characterizing both collections lately. The crea- compromise tive part of designing the models and setting up the Every product is designed, developed and manu- factured exclusively Talking with Alessia Ariemma and details for each model is usually done by four hands in Italy and transmits taste for the new and love for the tradition of Tiziano Colasante with Tiziano, who then directs the entire prototyping craftsmanship combined with the most advanced techniques of leather and production phase with his company Propel srl, processing and the use of innovative fabrics and materials. which operates in the sector for 30 years and boasts by Federico Poletti excellence in Italian leather goods manufacturing. ALEF Bags are Made In Italy, which means excellence in materials, centuries long best craftsmanships How do you combine the tradition and value of and never compromising on quality. The brand is Made in Italy with innovation? the result of the partnership between two different ALEF is a brand that is totally produced in Italy using depths and solid entrepreneurial activities and to the mainly materials of Italian origin. The manufacture meeting of Tiziano Colasante and Alessia Auriemma. is carried out entirely within the company which has We talked about it with Alessia Ariemma and Tiziano a thirty-year artisan tradition. The brand, together Colasante, who joined forces to launch Alef. with its creators and Propel srl, promotes the ‘Made in Italy’ with its product by defending its quality and How did you start the project? creativity features in the world. At the same time, the ALEF is a brand born thanks to the meeting between company, working primarily for established brands Alessia Ariemma and Tiziano Colasante. Alessia is a has gradually adapted to the demands of the big play- marketing expert and trend specialist in the fashion and ers and the needs for speeding up the processes, guar- beauty sector working as a consultant for several Italian anteeing excellent quality by equipping itself with the and multinational companies. Tiziano has been an en- latest generation machinery, such as laser cutting ma- trepreneur in the leather industry for over thirty years chines, for computerized embroidery and prototype with experience in the development and production of development with CAD. Each activity is supervised bags for major brands, including Balenciaga, Versace, by its department representatives who guarantee its Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, Bottega Veneta quality, allowing to combine absolutely manual and just to name a few. Our meeting took place about 6 artisan activities with activities carried out thanks to years ago thanks to a project developed for a common new technologies, but without losing the taste for the 44 client. From our creative and professional affinity, we “handmade”. The logo of the ALEF brand refers 45 developed the idea of creating a brand completing precisely to this. In fact, the elements that intersect alef-bags.com each other’s skills. The brand was born 4 years ago and in the graphic part of the logo are Alfa (tradition), it’s expanding. Initially, the line included only women’s Omega (innovation) and Tao (the constant change alef.bags styles which has been enriched by a new dedicated col- to achieve excellence while maintaining the values of AlefDesigns.Bags lection for men soon after the launch. tradition). 46 SUSTAINABLE FASHION OWAY

BGBL Bouncing Bags A2BYMATIN collaboration, resulting collaboration, from acollective pro The effort. istopromoterealchange, thanks to afactual goal The Milan. of both the insiders and the citizenries workshops to engage activities and displays, and arichhappenings calendarof FashionWSM Reboot, a project including installations, and interaction are the keys to understanding Synergy for progress. tal andsocialcrisis into ourbest opportunity environmen- the current long been working to transform so as to give a voice to the several stakeholders that have way, holistic and propositioning theme in asystemic, market as well as the end-users. project tackles The the sustainability with the andcultures of the different forms design and fashion to dedicated event first The Milan. theMunicipalityof of which, with ale dellaModa,WHITE,CBICamera Buyer Italia, ject stems fromthe nership with by Editorial Team consideration for small and medium-sized businesses,consideration for small medium-sized and their ability ICE’s –isinkeeping with Agenzia Ferro Carlo President, toWSMFashion“The support Reboot –underlinesICE’s projects. system, are the elements connecting a variety of search, aimingto sustainable development in the fashion to circular andsustainable fashion. Innovation andre- the first and foremost unmissable appointment dedicated the worldwide becoming scene through aclear-cut goal: on Milan spearheaded byto enhancethe role of WHITE initiativenew fashion paradigminMilan. Animportant support offered by support WSM Fashion Reboot thankstoevent the , an organized FashionReboot), relies on WHITE WSM 12th January of 2020 at BASEMilano (partner the menswearweek, fashion on occasion of On f WSM Milan goes sustainable with ashionreboot Confartigianato Imprese Confartigianato Confartigianato Imprese Confartigianato MISEandICE

synergy between CameraNazion- synergy , aiming to act as a bridge connecting , aimingtoact as abridge sustainable innovation - the part –Agenzia, sustainability with aimtolaunch a , and the 11th and aegis - co-founder of the brand Wråd thebrand director of artistic and co-founder of WSM Fashion Reboot is curated by circular economy infashion. whole sectortofurther the Make FashionCircular, the leaders of gathers Foundation MacArthur the otherinstitutions Among involved, the tions Development Goals approved by the Fondationlarte Pistoletto, the Sustainable support WSM Fashion Reboot, with Cittadel in partnership has always and actively WHITE’s supported projects. Milan, which the Municipality of Polytechnic, FondationPistoletto, Milan’stion, Cittadellarte are Fashionsustainability: the main partners Revolu- of the most authoritative names interms some of Fashion WSM Reboot hasinvolved edition of This inMilan.” andsustainable fashionwillbepremiered industry collections dedicated tothe new technologiestive in the textile and sustainability, circularity whose innovaare main objective - designers,and brands scouting of tionally. Thankstoatargeted - interna innovative start-ups promote and to backtives growth initia- transversal of consisting plan specific a up drawn have sustainability. Onthese topics, withWHITE,we of terms for innovation, andtheir commitment in their workmanship ’ leadersin2015. 1TRUEID

WRÅD , which, forthe project Matteo Ward, United Na- Ellen - keeping with the needs of theplanet. keeping withtheneeds of ating functionalproducts, sothattheiroutput is in radically rethinkingtheir business gener model and brands orsmall or medium-sized businesses that are the future, moving ahead with innovative start-ups, Today,thanks tothisexample, also weto canlook circulareconomy. shouldbethebedrock of This (fishingnetsorcork). scraps fromhisterritory the innovativewithcame up an way tomake use of who,access no whenhehad to new raw materials, A pioneeringexamplewas Salvatore Ferragamo sustainability. dive intothecultureof as tobeinclusive deep a from accessible, and starting suchin theeventwaya is structured of format The needs”. how design canandmustbecome atooltomeet society’s real illustrating Anevent andsystemic revolution. development sustainable of process a real to trigger which necessary are multi-stakeholder partnerships, forthe activation of ready WSMFashion Reboot are goes toshow that we edition of the project: So Matteo Ward, creative director of 2020. edition, from20thto23rdFebruary on to develop this asset also inthe goes womenswear WHITE’s GIVE AFOKus, sustainable hub

BLUE OF A KIND

BAV TAILOR “This that - , 47 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO VIVIENNE WESTWOOD VIVIENNE MIKOLAJ SOKOLOWSKI MIKOLAJ VANTA DESIGN STUDIO DESIGN VANTA SUSTAINABLE FASHION SUSTAINABLE

SUSTAINABLE THINKING MAJA BRIX MAJA INSANE IN THE RAIN AYNI

Salvatore Ferragamo Museum and Fondazione them a second chance), down to a selection of in- Kirkum, Awareness Infinitum and Corrina Goutos, ion to services, like Lablaco, which promotes circu- Ferragamo are going to partake in WSM Fashion novative start-ups. Vivienne Westwood, one of the will partake too. lar fashion shopping, ArchiLab dedicated to beauty Reboot, for the first time in Milan, with a section of last independent brands worldwide, will be present at From Peru, for the first time in Italy, the two excel- and 1TrueId app, which focuses on traceability. On the show Sustainable Thinking currently staged in WSM to promote their cultural message for the sake lences AYNI and Sophia Lerner, while Fashion top of that, the space dedicated to WSM SMART the museum Florence, with a display on the ground of ethical and sustainable fashion. Revolution promotes the open studio workshop/ Contest “Sustainable Manufacturing and Responsi- floor of BASE Milano (Ex Ansaldo) of a selection The active involvement of different individuals, all format with Abitario, Larissa Von Planta and Pat- ble Innovation Technologies”, an initiative organized of exclusive models by Salvatore Ferragamo illustrat- authoritative in terms of sustainability, has allowed to rick McDowell, which are going to showcase a spe- by WHITE and coordinated by Francesca Romana ing his innate passion for experimentation with the gather a unique selection of designers and consolidat- cial embroidery technique on cloth. Among the other Rinaldi to enhance the start-ups that offer sustaina- poorest materials, materials that had never been used ed brands, ranging from apparel to accessories, down workshops that deserve a mention, Corrina Goutos ble products and services to revolutionize the fashion before to make footwear: paper, the bark of the tree, to beauty. will show how she creates jewels and accessories from system by implementing responsible innovation. raffia, fish skin, cellophane. Cittadellarte Fondazione Pistoletto is furthering recycled headsets. The Royal Embassy of Den- WSM Fashion Reboot rather than a display of From the show curated by Fondazione Ferraga- its collaboration with WHITE by bringing to WSM mark is glad to collaborate with WSM Fashion products, aims to be a manifesto to explore pro- mo on the ground floor, to the first floor of BASE Fashion Reboot a remarkable selection of creatives: Reboot for the first event fully dedicated to sustain- jects that will be enhanced through a bespoke setup Milano, where an eclectic scenario awaits the visitors: Tiziano Guardini, Flavia La Rocca, Bav Tailor, ability at the next edition of Milan’s Fashion Week – the white brick – a true blank page, the expression textile businesses like Candiani Denim, Canepa, Silvia Giovanardi, Blue of a Kind, Yekaterina in January 2020, showcasing a selected collective of within a space of the ideas, values, creativity and goals 48 Albini Group, Orange Fiber, to mention just a Yvankova, ACBC (innovative footwear), Officina Danish designers, who have decided to harness their of all the partners of WSM Fashion Reboot, sharing a 49 few, fashion labels and leading-edge designers like 39, Juan Carlos Gordillo Arana and Laura Mei- creativity to generate sustainable fashion, in line with common goal: triggering positive change with a focus Vivienne Westwood, Bethany Williams, Boyish jering. Thanks to the presence of A New Awareness, the current priorities of the newly elected Danish on transparency, innovation and social design. A rich Jeans, Gilberto Calzolari, Selfi, Aagè, brands like non-profit collaboration project that involves univer- Government. calendar of activities with talks and workshops held Paul&Shark, Neubau Eyewear, Regenesi (one of the sities, media, non-government organizations, industry WSM Fashion Reboot will also stage an important by key opinion leaders on the topic of global sustain- first agencies to regenerate recycled materials to give and the civil society, three international talents, Helen focus on innovative start-ups, ranging from fash- ability. 50 RUBRICA 201912_lamm_inserat_it_magazin.indd 1 brandnamic.com | Foto: Florian Andergassen PE LOCAL ORINTERNATIONAL? H T up withthetimesisamustfor thosewholovetherichesoftheirland.Andwethem! Come anddiscovertheSouthTyrolean traditionreinterpretedin amodernkey

o + t 3 e 9 l L R 04 a F m 7 EC m 1 7 DECEMBER NEW FROM

/ 0 / V 2 T 6

34 0 ia M D 3 1 A o

/ 9 l / o T

m i n C i f t o i 1 H @ 9 l a :

m C m UISINE - h o t e l . i t

/ /

www F U . l a S m m I O - h N o t e

l G . i t THE CHOICEISYOURS! O U R M E T

AL P IN L 1 since 6 7 I F 0 E S . Keeping T YL E

20.12.19 08:27 51 52 RUBRICA