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WEST ICELAND Iceland Offers Anincredibly Diverse Rangeofhighlightswithinamanageabledistance © Lonely Planet Publications 150 lonelyplanet.com WEST ICELAND •• Hvalfjörður 151 Getting There & Around and 830m Kistufell. To get here, turn off Rte 1 If driving take Rte 1 west out of Reykjavík to just north of Mosfellsbær. West Iceland reach west Iceland. Most roads in the area For a more leisurely walk, a 5km trail runs are paved and driving conditions are good. up the Botnsdalur valley at the head of the West Iceland also has good public-transport fjord to Glymur, Iceland’s highest waterfall connections, with regular services from Reyk- (198m). Set in a deep, short canyon, the water- javík to Akranes, Borgarnes, Reykholt and fall is at its most dramatic after heavy rain or Búðardalur, as well as daily buses to Styk- snow-melt – in a dry period it can be a little Little visited, under appreciated and yet spectacularly scenic, west Iceland is in many ways kishólmur, Grundarfjörður and in summer underwhelming. a microcosm of what is on offer elsewhere in the country. Add the fact that it’s easily acces- to Ólafsvík and Hellissandur-Rif. As you join the north shore of the fjord sible from Reykjavík and it becomes an ideal destination for shorter trips. You can avoid the you’ll pass the Miðsandur NATO Fuel Depot, long days on the road that awaits those screaming around the Ring Rd and still get to see HVALFJÖRÐUR once the site of Iceland’s main whaling station. If you’ve got plenty of time it’s worth taking In 1989 protesters sank two of Iceland’s whal- glaciers, fjords, wild volcanic landscapes and some excellent museums. Thanks to the region’s the 80km scenic route around Hvalfjörður ing boats and sabotaged the plant, forcing low-key presence on the tourist radar, you’ll get most of these sights entirely to yourself. rather than the 5.7km-long tunnel that runs Iceland to finally submit to the international beneath its waters. The fjord offers good hik- moratorium on whaling. Although there’s Along the coast the glacial landscape is particularly striking with alternating fjords and ing and fishing and is home to Iceland’s high- little to see today, grisly pictures of whale peninsulas scattered with isolated fishing villages. Inland, dramatic lava fields are dotted est waterfall. In summer there’s also a good processing in operation are on display at the with impressive waterfalls and incredible lava caves. West Iceland’s most memorable feature, chance of spotting whales from the shore. Olís petrol station at Fertikkiskáli, 4km further though, is the Snæfellsnes peninsula, a rugged and mountainous finger of land boasting west. With increasing support for the pro- Sights whaling lobby internationally (see p152 ), it’s jagged peaks, beautiful beaches, steaming geothermal fields, excellent bird-watching and Dramatic Esja (914m), on the southern side of feared that the station may some day come its very own icecap, Snæfellsjökull. the fjord, is a great spot for wilderness hiking. back into operation. The trail to the summit begins from the old Just past the petrol station at Saurbær, the WEST ICELAND Historical links are strong, with the Laxdæla and Egil’s sagas sprouting from this area and farm Esjuberg, site of Iceland’s first church, local church is worth a look for its beauti- the remnants of Viking farms still visible. The Settlement Centre in Borgarnes offers a fasci- and ascends via the 850m spur Krehólakambur ful stained-glass work. Built in memory of nating insight into this period, and the medieval study centre in Reykholt gives a glimpse 0 50 km of the life and times of one of Iceland’s most beloved historians, Snorri Sturluson. WEST ICELAND 0 30 miles WEST ICELAND Króksfjarðarnes Flatey To Ísafjöður Whether you’re in search of the inspiration behind Iceland’s sagas, wild and otherworldly (150km) Hvammstangi Efri-Brú Breiðafjördur scenery, a glimpse of the biggest mammals on earth or adrenaline-pumping activities, west 590 Hrútafjörður 1 Iceland offers an incredibly diverse range of highlights within a manageable distance. Á To Akureyri Laugar (105km) Elliðaey Kolfingsnes Hvammur Staðarfell Hrappsey Hjarðarholt Laxá Laxárdalur Grundarfjörður Staðarskáli Höskuldsey Brokey Höskulosstaðir Stykkishólmur HvammsfjörðurBúðardalur 586 Brú Bjarnarhöfn Eiríksstaðir Haukadalsá TOP FIVE 54 Stóra-Vatnshorn Hellissandur Árblik Kirkjufell Haukadalur 56 Drápuhlíðarfjall Arnarvatnsheiði Rif (463m) (527m) Explore Iceland’s subterranean world in the Hlíðarvatn Ólafsvík Grundarfjörður Kerlingarskarð Arnarvatnsheiði lava caves of Viðgelmir, Surtshellir and 574 Snæfellsjökull 1 Vegamót Heggstaðir Hítarvatn Baula Snæfell (934m) Stefánshellir ( p157 ) Flatey Island Búðir 54 Tvídægra F578 (1446m) Laugagerðiskóli Grábrók Arnarstapi Hraunsnef Surtshellir & Hellnar Breathe deep as you take in the Eldborg Bifröst Desey Stefánshellir Haffjörður (110m) Jafnaskarð Fljótstunga Viðgelmir incongruous golden sands and turquoise Skarðsvík See Snæfellsnes Peninsula Map (pp160-1) Hallmundarhraun Munaðarnes Varmaland Hraunfossar Barnafoss water of Skarðsvík beach ( p165 ) Reykholt Snæfellsnes Baulan 50 Langjökull Hítardalur Svignaskarð Deildartunguhver Húsafell ὄ ὄὄdá Get out on foot to explore the wild volcanic Viðgelmir, Surtshellir Borg á Mýrum Hvítá Kleppjárnsreykir & Stefánshellir Flókadalur Ok Kal landscapes and dramatic ice floes at the Borgarnes Hvanneyri (1190m) Faxaflói Kaldidalur western end of Snæfellsnes ( p158 ) Kaldidalur Hafnarfjall F550 Álftanes 50 508 (666m) 52 Þórisjökull Hótel Glymur Fertikkiskáli Drive through the remote and alien land- 1 Miðsandur F338 Akrafjall Whaling scape of the Kaldidalur valley ( p158 ) Borgarfjörður (572m) Saurbær Station 36 Hvammsvík Glymur To Geysir (3km); Step back in time and experience utter Akranes Grundartangi BotnsdalurὈὄὄὄGulfoss (13km) Guesthouse Kiðafell tranquillity with a visit to the traditional Hvalfjörður Múlafjall Esja Krehólakambur island of Flatey ( p161 ) (914m) 37 Esjuberg 1 Kistufell 36 (830m) Laugarvatn REYKJAVÍK Mosfell ὈÞingvallavatn 152 WEST ICELAND •• To Whale or Not To Whale lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com WEST ICELAND •• Akranes 153 Hallgrímur Pétursson, who composed Ice- Information TO WHALE OR NOT TO WHALE? land’s most widely known religious work, 50 The friendly tourist office (%431 5566; www.visit In 1986 the International Whaling Commission (IWC) introduced a worldwide ban on commercial Passion Hymns, the church is only slightly akranes.is; h10am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep, 1-5pm mid- whaling; Iceland, however, decided to continue hunting. Under the auspices of a ‘scientific research more modest than Reykjavík’s Hallgrím- Sep–mid-May) is based at the museum centre. programme’ the country’s trawlers headed out to sea and killed 90 cetaceans in the following three skirkja, also named after the composer. You’ll find the post office and several banks years. Quite where the scientific research came in was never fully explained, as the whale meat with ATMs on Kirkjubraut, the main street. was sold to restaurants in Iceland and Japan, and the carcasses were made into pet food, vitamins Sleeping & Eating and lubricating oil – all of which had cheaper and more environmentally sound substitutes. Hvammsvík (%566 7023; www.hvammsvik.is; sites per Sights & Activities International pressure and direct action by conservationists finally forced Iceland to call a halt tent Ikr500; hJun-Aug) On the southern side of AKRANES MUSEUM CENTRE to its whaling activities in 1989. Iceland quit the IWC in protest. By 2002 whaling was back on the the fjord you can stay at this beautifully situ- The town’s main attraction is the engaging Icelandic agenda and they slinked back into the organisation and attempted to push through a ated recreation centre set right on the water Museum Centre (%431 5566; www.museum.is; adult/ proposal to slaughter 100 minke whales, 100 fin whales and 50 sei whales as part of a so-called at the foot of a sweeping slope. It’s a dra- under 16yr Ikr500/free; h10am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep, ‘feasibility study’ to research the effect of whales on the marine environment. matic place offering a nine-hole golf course 1-5pm mid-Sep–mid-May), which is full of nautical With support from pro-whaling Norway and Japan, Iceland passed the motion by one vote in (Ikr1000 per day) and kayaking (three-hour relics, crystals, fossils, tales of sporting heroes August 2003. Conservationists the world over were stunned and the IWC itself issued a formal tours Ikr4500). and local lore. Outside, you can explore a protest, backed by members of the international scientific community and Iceland’s tourism Guesthouse Kiðafell (%566 6096; www.dagfinnur.is restored boathouse, a drying shed, a church industry. Iceland’s new image as a sanctuary for the magnificent creatures had created a whale- /kidafell; sb/s/d May-Sep Ikr2500/4200/7900, Oct-Apr and several historic houses, and take a look watching industry drawing 82,000 visitors to the country annually and generating US$27 million Ikr2000/3500/6500) For more comfort, try this at a collection of fishing boats, including the for the Icelandic economy – far more than commercial whaling ever did. farmhouse offering pleasant accommodation cutter Sigurfari. The museum is about 1km Despite this, the hunt resumed and conservationists from all over the world flocked to Iceland in wood-panelled rooms. Breakfast (Ikr900), east of the centre, just off Graðagrund. to protest. To appease the situation the Icelandic government promised that all whales would be evening meals (Ikr2000) and horse riding (one caught outside whale-watching areas – that was until the first kill occurred in September, right hour Ikr2300) are also available. OTHER ATTRACTIONS in the main whale-watching area south of Reykjavík. Hótel Glymur (%430 3100; www.hotelglymur.is; Akranes old town is well worth a wander for In spite of international condemnation, Iceland and Japan continued to hunt whales under the s/d/tr May-Oct Ikr16,900/23,900/30,400, Nov-Apr Ikr14,900/ a look at the lovely old wooden buildings still WEST ICELAND auspices of scientific research and Norway ignored the ban altogether.
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