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CK-A4-Final.indd 1 15.4.2015 10:46 Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

If you are under the impression that the scenery in Iceland guesthouses, restaurants and shops open all year round to meet is less vibrant in colour in the fall than in the summer time, your needs. Of course, there are plenty of tour guides and travel you are soon to find out otherwise. This time of the year agencies in every region, where you will find expert knowledge the countryside is characterised by colours covering the of the area and the activities available, ensuring that you will have whole of the warmer side of the colour spectrum, ranging from the most enjoyable holiday possible. yellow, greenish to red and purple tones and the mountains are Another group worth mentioning, that appreciates this placid Idressed in grizzled caps, making their appearance even more season, are the numerous craftspeople and artists who commonly distinguished. This is also the favourite season of the northern have more time to attend to their creations. In this edition we will lights lovers as this tireless phenomenon will rise from dormancy highlight the first-rate handiwork of designers and craftspeople, and delight locals and guests alike with its random, yet majestic who put their heart and soul into their trade. Whether you plan performances. If you have come to experience the quiet nature on staying in the Reykjavik area or are headed to the countryside that you’ve heard so much about, this is a prime time to do so. you will find a surprisingly wide variety of quality design, skilfully With fewer visitors travelling about the country, chances are that handmade with bundles of love. If you are still short on a when you reach your favourite spot you may actually have it all Christmas present or two, you should find an abundance of ideas to yourself. And yet you will find, regardless of where your heart right here. We hope you enjoy this feature packed edition and is set on going, that there will be full service available with hotels, that your holiday will be everything you dreamed it to be.

– Edda Snorradóttir

Contents Iceland’s Dynamic Design Scene...... 6 Getting Juiced in Iceland...... 30 North Iceland...... 56 Leather Designer...... 6 The Brave Get the Best...... 31 Fjallabyggð – A Tale of Two Villages...... 60 Colourful and Playful Pieces...... 7 Refinement in Reykjavik...... 32 The Old Post Office...... 62 Delicate Hand-Painted Silk Designs...... 7 Réttir – The Yearly Sheep Round-ups!...... 33 Siglo Harbour Hostel and Apartments...... 62 The Fine Art of Knifemaking...... 8 Iceland From Above...... 36 Siglufjörður’s New Marina Village...... 63 The Joyful Wonderland...... 9 East Iceland...... 64 West Iceland...... 37 The World’s Most Exclusive Watchmaker...... 11 A Pearl in the Eastfjords...... 65 Iceland’s Own Axe Murderer...... 40 Delicate and Precious...... 12 Borgarfjörður Eystri: Álfheimar Country Hotel...... 68 From Rock Quarry to City Landmark...... 14 Borgarnes in Borgarfjörður...... 42 Geiri’s Bakery (or Geirabakarí)...... 42 South Iceland...... 70 Gjóska Wool Art...... 16 Plunging Into History...... 43 Dine in the Langoustine Capital...... 71 Masters on Display...... 16 Shaped by the Bay...... 44 The Mysterious Hotel Laki...... 74 Grandi...... 18 Soak Up Snæfellsnes Peninsula...... 46 Stracta Hotel Hella...... 76 Catch the Northern Lights All Year Around...... 20 Sjávarpakkhúsið Restaurant & Bar...... 47 Suður-Vík Restaurant...... 77 Only at Kaffivagninn ...... 21 Refreshing Vík...... 77 Nordic Chic at Its Best...... 22 Westfjords...... 48 The Secret Lagoon in Flúðir...... 78 Celebrating Iceland’s Whales...... 24 Húsið Is Happening...... 49 The Enchanted Island...... 80 The Northern Lights season Is Upon Us...... 26 Eye on Design...... 52 Harmonious Hjarðarból Guesthouse...... 81 iRent Car Rental Company...... 29 The Call of the Wild...... 54 A Delightful Experience in Stokkseyri...... 82

Credits Icelandic language How to make use of QR codes

PUBLISHER LAYOUT & DESIGN WRITERS Icelandic is one of the European root J&Co. ehf Andrew Scott Fortune languages, like Latin. There is no ‘c’ or ‘z’ in PROOFREADER Dagmar Trodler Jónas Ó. Ólafsson modern Icelandic, except in foreign words. E. Marie Valgarðsson However, it still contains some letters not ICELANDIC TIMES SALES & MARKETING Elaine Marie Valgardsson Edda Snorradóttir [email protected] found in most other languages. This basic Helga Dís Björgúlfsdóttir Helga Berglind Jónsdóttir, list provides a general idea of their sounds, MANAGING EDITOR & [email protected] Hrafnhildur Þórhallsdóttir GENERAL MANAGER using familiar words rather than phonetics. Kolbrún Ólafsdóttir Jenna Gotlieb Einar Th. Thorsteinsson [email protected] Júlíana Björnsdóttir [email protected] Kristinn Hallbergsson Katrín Baldursdóttir Character Pronunciation PROJECT MANAGER [email protected] Use your QR code reader application on your smartphone or Nanna Hlín Halldórsdóttir Edda Snorradóttir FRONT COVER PHOTO á Like ‘ow’ in ‘cow’ iPad to scan the QR codes. QR code reader applications can be [email protected] Björn Rúriksson Vignir Andri Guðmundsson æ Like the personal pronoun ‘I’ downloaded free for all makes of smartphones ð Like ‘th’ in ‘that’ þ Like ‘th’ in ‘thing’ Icelandic Times The opinions expressed in Icelandic Times do not necessarily reflect those of the editor, publishers or their agents. Though the Síðumúla 1 • 108 Reykjavík contents of this issue have been meticulously prepared, no warranty is made about the accuracy and completeness thereof. +354 578 5800 [email protected] Copyright © October 2015 Icelandic Times media ehf. All rights reserved Oddi Ecolabelled Printing Co. www.icelandictimes.com 4 www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015 Tou r ism, Cu lT u r e a n d Busi n e ss issue 28 • 2015

ColourfulSES Design Mixes Adventure and Playful and Fun in Each Pieces Collection

igríður Elfa Sigurðardóttir bases SES Design in a charming workshop/store Sin Borgartún, where visitors can see, and purchase, her beautiful creations. Sigríður has Iceland’s Dynamic been a lifelong maker and artist and studied as celand s ynamIc a painter. SES Design features fashion pieces I ’ d for adults and children as well as accessories celandic design is having a moment. From fashion to of the Arts (Listaháskóli Íslands) in Reykjavik, while others for the home, and jewellery and hats. Designhome products to handcrafts, the number Scene of individuals have honed their craft through self-study. Those with advanced Design has been a passion for Sigríður for producingIIcelandic innovativedesignes is having designI gna projects moment. in FromIceland fashion is staggering, tocene home degreesof the andArts those (Listaháskóli that have Íslands)learned onin theirReykjavik, own share while the others same many years. SES Design was born in 2006, The collection is colourful, playful and very makingdproducts this to tinyhandcrafts, island athe hotbed number of creativeof individuals energy.s producing Many drive,have withhoned the their desire craft to throughcreate coursing self-study. through Those their with blood. advanced several years after she founded another design pleasing to the eye. Some pieces feature fabrics Icelandicinnovative designers design projects have indeveloped Iceland is an staggering, aesthetic making that degreesThe close-knit and those design that havecommunity learned inon Iceland their own is often share supportive the same company. All of Sigríður´s pieces are done that come from Africa. In addition to the SES incorporatesthis tiny island the a naturalhotbed ofsurroundings creative energy. and Many picturesque Icelandic anddrive, proud with of the one desire another, to create and thrilledcoursing to through show off their their blood. original by hand and each item is worked on one at a Design workshop, which is recommended landscapedesigners intohave theirdeveloped work. an Iceland’s aesthetic boundlessthat incorporates glaciers, the creations.The close-knit To get a glimpsedesign community of some of inIceland’s Iceland talented is often supportivedesigners, time. There is absolutely no mass production on TripAdvisor, Sigríður´s designs can be wondrousnatural surroundings waterfalls, towering and picturesque volcanoes landscape and vast into lava their fields work. checkand proud out the of annualone another, “Handverk and thrilled og hönnun” to show exhibition, off their originalwhich in SES Design. The concept started out as purchased in Reykjavik at Álafoss, Epal (in Víkingur, Norska húsið in Stykkishólmur, neverIceland’s fail to boundlessinspire. Some glaciers, designers wondrous favour workingwaterfalls, with towering local willcreations. take place To get November a glimpse 5-9 of some at Reykjavik of Iceland’s City talented Hall. Scoresdesigners, of a children’s line, but quickly expanded to Harpa), the Handknitting Association of the House of Hands in Egilsstaðir, and materialsvolcanoes like and Icelandic vast lava wool fields for fashion never pieces, fail to fish inspire. leather Some for designerscheck out will the be annual on hand “Handverk displaying og hönnun”and selling exhibition, their inventive which include clothing for adults, including dresses. Iceland, the National Gallery of Iceland, Gullfosskaffi off the Golden Circle. -JG handbagsdesigners and favour accessories, working andwith local local birchmaterials wood like for Icelandic handcrafts. wool goods.will take Locals place love November to support 5-9 local at Reykjavik designers Cityand Hall.it’s also Scores a great of forDesigners fashion inpieces, Iceland fish come leather from for varioushandbags backgrounds. and accessories, Some and placedesigners for tourists will be toon pick hand up displaying a unique andhandmade selling theirtreasure inventive from SES Design Ísland have studied abroad or attended the top-notch Iceland Academy their unforgettable visit to Iceland. -JG Borgartún 23 • 105 Reykjavik local birch wood for handcrafts. goods. Locals love to support local designers and it’s also a great +354 571 1250 Designers in Iceland come from various backgrounds. Some place for tourists to pick up a unique handmade treasure from [email protected] www.facebook.com/sesdesign.island have studied abroad or attended the top-notch Iceland Academy their unforgettable visit to Iceland. -JG

PHOTO: NORDEN.ORG

DelicateBudda-Design Offers WhimsicalHand-Painted Fashion Pieces Featuring Silk Northern DesignsLights Inspiration LeatherLadies handbags, earrings andDesigner necklaces DelicateBudda-Designudda-Design Offersis the creationWhimsical Hand-Painted of Fashion Pieces Featuring Northern Silk Lights Inspiration Designs Ladies handbags, earrings and necklaces Aðalbjörg Erlendsdóttir, a fashion Leather Designer andB textileudda-Design designer is the based creation in theof Aðalbjörg heart of uality Icelandic design and leather working at an architect’s office, she started Reykjavik.Erlendsdóttir, Budda´s aline fashion is based and aroundtextile handcraft is much sought after. “My her own business. designergorgeousB based designs in shethe hand-paintsheart of Reykjavik. on silk, firstQ leather design was a handbag painted “I’ve worked on some amazing projects, Budda´sincluding line scarves,is based around dresses, gorgeous pillows designs and with colourful artwork and patterns,” ranging from large buildings to single family sheartwork. hand-paints Aðalbjörg´s on silk, designs including are delicatescarves, says Guðrún Stefánsdóttir, a successful homes. My favourite projects are those where dresses,and colourful, pillows andwhile artwork. being classicAðalbjörg´s and independent architect who found a second I design everything from A-Z for private designsplayful are at thedelicate same and time. colourful, while being career in creative leather designs. Guðrún homes. Those projects would typically classic and playful at the same time. designs leather handbags and now she’s involve the house and interior design, the designs leather handbags and now she’s involve the house and interior design, the Icelandic Nature added necklaces and earrings to her Ark Art landscaping around the house and the added necklaces and earrings to her Ark Art landscaping around the house and the Iceland´sIcelandic Naturestark nature and Career Switch Design pieces at a number of places around accessory collection. “I wanted to use the furniture inside.” accessory collection. “I wanted to use the furniture inside.” Iceland´sunrivaled beautystark is anature consistent and Career SwitchAðalbjörg has had ReykjavikReykjavik includingincluding herher studiostudio at Skipholt leather cut-offs for something useful, when The Ark Art collection is available at influenceunrivaled beauty on Aðalbjörg. is a consistent She Aðalbjörg anhas had an interesting 9,9, National Gallery of Iceland,Iceland, ÓfeigurÓfeigur I came up with the idea to use them to make the National Art Gallery, Snorrastofa in influencespends her summeron Aðalbjörg. travelling She professionalprofessional path as she path studied as Gullsmiðja,Gullsmiðja, IcelandairIcelandair Hotels ReykjavikReykjavik jewellery—earrings and necklaces.” Reykholt and directly from Guðrún. spendswidely heracross summer Iceland travelling and her widely across biology and geologyshe at thestudied University biology of Natura,Natura, HiltonHilton Reykjavik Nordica and Guðrún’s Ark Art leather jewellery is More information can be found on deepIceland love and and her appreciation deep love and for appreciationthe natural andIceland geology and at worked the University for many of Icelandyears asand a RadissonRadisson BluBlu SagaSaga Hotel,Hotel, and Gullfosskaffi recognisable by her use of thin leather Facebook: Ark.art leather design. -NHH forsurroundings the natural issurroundings reflected in is reflectedher designs. in herFor workedbiologist. for About many 23years years as a ago,biologist. she wanted About alongalong thethe GoldenGolden Circle.Circle. --JGJG rings or squares and use of colours. It is a designs.her current For collection,her current northerncollection, lights northern take 23to yearsfurther ago, explore she wanted her toartistic further side explore and sophisticated yet simple design, skilfully Arkart centrelights take stage centre with stage pieces with piecesinspired inspired by the by hergraduated artistic from side theand Columbine graduated Schoolfrom the of Budda Design Síðumúli 1 • 105 Reykjavík Skipholt 9 • 105 Reykjavik using geometric shapes and colours. Dragháls 10 • 110 Reykjavík dancingthe dancing green green lights lights that that adorn adorn Iceland’s ColumbineFashion and School Design of in FashionDenmark. and Design Guðrún graduated from the Royal School +354 551 5533 skies every winter. Mountains, volcanoes in Denmark. +354 699 0490 Guðrún graduated from the Royal School [email protected] skies every winter. Mountains, volcanoes and Locals and tourists can buy Budda- [email protected] [email protected] www.facebook.com/pages/Arkart-leather-design/ www.budda.is of Architecture in Denmark in 1986. After www.facebook.com/pages/Arkart-leather-design/376432965741825 lavaand fieldslava fields are also are analso inspiration. an inspiration. DesignLocals pieces and at touristsa number can of placesbuy aroundBudda-

6 7 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

HANDMADE WITH LOVE Using only the the finest materials and craftsmanship the Reykjavik Raincoats are 100% waterproof like the fisherman’s style coats that were around in the 70’s. Our raincoats are handmade in rubberized cotton fabric with double stitched seams and welding on the inside for the perfect protection.

I WISH IT WOULD RAIN At Reykjavik Raincoats we are extremely passionate and our goal is to make the perfect raincoat that makes you wish it would rain every day just he ine rt so you can wear your Reykjavik T F A Raincoat. Our aim is to carefully construct raincoats in the highest standard and sell them with love to people who care about quality. Bringingof an AncientK niViking Traditionfem Into the Presentaking n the town of Mosfellsbær, and Soffía are happy to work just a 15 minutes’ drive from with you to produce a custom Reykjavík,I master craftsman Páll knife made to your specifications. Kristjánsson (or Palli) and his More information can be found The Joyful Wonderland co-creator Soffía Sigurðardóttir at their websites listed below The Little Christmas Shop that is festive all year round are hard at work in their rustic where you can browse their atelier, where they create an collections and even special order nne Helen, owner of ‘The Little Christmas array of handsome knives for online. Shop’ on Laugavegur, Reykjavik’s main collectors, chefs, and all those shoppingA street, is what you might call a ‘one woman wonder’. Ten years ago, she decided it was who appreciate the workmanship The Woman’s Touch Walk-ins Welcome that goes into a finely crafted tool. For her part, Soffía, who has worked under Palli and Soffía’s workshop can be found time for a change and turned to doing what she Palli’s tutelage for several years, has created a at Álafossvegur 29, 270 Mosfellsbær. does better than most of us; making the world a prettier place, one Christmas ball at a time. customary Christmas ornaments, she includes Icelandic Artisans at Work line of beautiful professional kitchen knives Opening hours are 9 - 6, Monday through Damascus steel, well known for its durability and her own collection of steak knives and Friday, from 9 - 4 on Saturdays or if you local folklore figures, like the thirteen Yule and razor sharp blades, as well as stainless steel forks which are gaining in popularity. Blades are in the neighbourhood outside of those In the Land of Eternal Christmas Lads and the Christmas Cat. from Denmark, Germany and Sweden are for these knives come in various shapes and hours, you are always welcome to pop in Anne Helen, a genuine aesthete, says she Anne Helen loves is to tell customers choice materials favoured by Palli and Soffía. materials (Japanese, Damascus steel or high for a chat. has always had somewhat about Icelandic Christmas traditions. Visitors Many of the blades are Viking Age replicas carbon steel) and the finely balanced handles Though a visit to their workshop would of a Christmas obsession often stop by simply because they’ve heard decorated with finely etched designs that are make them a joy to use in the kitchen. Chefs, be well worth your time, you can also find and an intense passion of her hospitality and the shop’s friendly then expertly paired with a handle carved by cooking schools and cooking enthusiasts their products available in Brynja hardware for things of beauty. She atmosphere. They rarely leave empty handed. Palli. Traditional Icelandic materials are all tend to love to show off these one-of-a-kind store on Laugavegur 29 in the centre of never goes for anything After all, placing an Icelandic Yule Lad on used to create beautifully carved handles— handmade kitchen tools that have become Reykjavik. -EMV average but hunts for your Christmas tree every year is a great way to birch, rowan, horse’s hooves, reindeer antler, something of a sought after souvenir from things of quality that remember your visit to Iceland. –HÞ goat and sheep horn and even fossilised Iceland. Álafossvegur 29 • 270 Mosfellsbæ truly stand out. Though an extensive range, most made wood. Palli’s knives can be found scattered +354 899 6903 she imports merchandise exclusively for her by a number Litla Jólabúðin [email protected] throughout the world in 85 countries and as [email protected] from all over Europe, of craftsmen, each having a Laugavegi 8 • Reykjavík Custom-made +354 552 2412 collector’s items, they sometimes enjoy fierce Should you have your own design ideas or www.knifemaker.is her ambition is to specialise in Icelandic distinctive approach and working in materials www.kitchenknives.is facebook bidding between collectors on the internet. materials that you would like to use, Palli handiwork and ornaments. She already has such as wool, glass and clay. In addition to [email protected] 8 8 9 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com The World’s Most Exclusive Watchmaker Prices from IKR 7.000 per day They sell to the stars but are known only to the few t is probably the world’s smallest watchmaker, located in a very small shopI in one of the world’s smallest countries and yet they produce the most exquisitely crafted and sought-after hand made watches. In this era of electronic, battery-powered watches, you might expect that automatic mechanical watches had passed into history. Nothing could be further from the truth. There is a greater demand for high quality timepieces that will outlast the temporary electronic watch phenomenon.

The choice of connoisseurs You can be defined by your choices. There are watches for the mass market and there are those watches that are individualised, personalised collectors’ items, works of art that are cherished for generations. These are investments - especially those limited editions. Relying on reliability Wear the volcano DRIVE INTO Yet, they have Pilots and the Icelandic Iceland used to be known as “Europe’s a key place in coastguard have to Best Kept Secret” but it was thrust into the the lives of the be able to trust their limelight in 2010 with the Eyjafjallajökull wearers. watches. Lives could volcanic eruption. The fine ash that brought THE WILDERNESS Kings, princesses, depend on them. The Europe’s air traffic to a halt now coats the international leaders from coastguard are issued with face of the most sought-after watch, the East and West, film stars, rock idols – all the “Sif” watch, designed especially for Goð. Ornate Viking engravings on the case have made their way to the small shop on them. The only watch in the range without make this watch stand out – especially as Laugavegur, Reykjavik’s main shopping a transparent back, it has a 4mm Sapphire some of the engraving can be personalised street, to select their own watch, have it non-reflective glass and can be used to a to make it totally unique. –ASF assembled and personalised just for them, depth of at least 1,000 metres. It is also a testament to their discernment of true available to the general public, along with JS Watch co. quality. pilots’ watches, likewise known for their Laugavegur 62 • 101 Reykjavik +354 551 4100 While I was visiting the shop, it’s dependability and absolute reliability. [email protected] wall filled with photos of well-known www.jswatch.com personalities who are now wearing their Extras Included Insurances Roadside Assistance watches, I couldn’t help but wonder if it Such as GPS, Extra CDW Insurance is included, and 24 hour roadside assistance our service was only the rich and famous who could partner all around Iceland will take afford such time pieces. My answer came driver and even if you wan’t more you can get all as I was standing there. A beautiful young BabySeats. Learn More. insurances for just IKR 3.000. good care of you in case of any troubles. woman came to pick up a watch she had ordered and two tourists selected watches for themselves. They would return later in the day after their selections had been www.autorental.is assembled specifically for them in the tiny studio at the back of the shop. Others, wanting something even more [email protected] (+354) 611 9000 personal, have their watches engraved on the inner rotor with special messages. 11 www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

Petersburg in 2000, received the DV Porcelain and international design Cultural Award in Reykjavik for Art The Aurum jewellery shop is like fairytale Design 2002 and the Visual Arts Award world. Showcases full of fine, delicate and in 2008. In 2011, Aurum received the detailed silver objects are so inspiring and Njarðarskjöldur award for Best Tourist beautiful that it is hard to resist buying Shop of the year. Articles about Guðbjörg one. But, in the next room is a colourful, DelicateAurum’s award-winning Icelandic jewellery and designs in downtown Precious Reykjavík and Aurum have appeared in many different and exciting design shop run by different international magazines and very Guðbjörg and her husband. There one can ankastræti 4 in central Reykjavik air. These pieces were something new and in Copenhagen. While she was studying, recently, in the Swedish magazine, Elle buy interesting Icelandic design items as is one of the best spots in town. It different but yet very Icelandic, as the she visited her home town in summer and Interiör. well as various things from countries all housesB a unique shop: Aurum. Its windows inspiration and motifs are taken from climbed the Drangajökull glacier. The over the world. Special socks from Japan, are filled with beautiful jewellery designed Icelandic nature. tiny flowers there, fighting for their lives, New nature motifs every year perfume from France and porcelain by award winning designer, Guðbjörg had a great impact on her and became the Guðbjörg is very productive and launches decorated by Guðbjörg in cooperation with Kristín Ingvarsdóttir, along with colourful The mountains, flowers and the glacier inspiration for her first flower line. These 2–5 new lines every year, now adding up to the Finnish design studio, Elinno. There and interesting articles from all over the Guðbjörg comes from Ísafjörður, a fishing designs have become like Aurum’s logo. over thirty altogether. are also candles designed by Guðbjörg in world. town in northwest Iceland. The high After three years abroad running a She is an enthusiastic angler and this cooperation with Popup Paris. In three of mountains, the long and narrow fjord, cooperative design shop, she came home to year, she introduced her salmon jewellery the candles are hidden 0.15 carat diamonds. Like a breath of fresh air glittering in the moonlight or sunshine, Iceland in 1999. She founded Aurum with and the ray, which used to be typical food Only one of them has been found as yet. Aurum’s jewellery pieces are notable for the dark winters and the tiny flowers next her husband, Karl Jóhann Jóhannsson. in her home town. Recently three birds - SJ their fine details and delicate nuances, to a cold glacial shield, are reflected in Guðbjörg has taken part in many were presented: the swan, the raven and necklace and bracelet range from silver and giving a feminine touch but, at the same her delicate but yet strong and powerful international design exhibitions both as the falcon. reindeer hooves. These pieces will first be Aurum Bankastræti 4 • 101 Reykjavík time, a light and modern appearance. jewellery. a solo designer and as a part of a group. She is now working on a new and shown in a special exhibition in Reykjavik +354 551 2770 When Guðbjörg introduced her jewellery She trained as a goldsmith and jewellery She was awarded first prize in the jewellery different line in cooperation with a reindeer and then launched in the Design March [email protected] www.aurum.is to the market, it was like a breath of fresh designer at the Institute for Precious Metals competition ‘Spirit of the North’ in St. farmer in Greenland. She is making a festival in Reykjavik in 2015. 12 13 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com TTouou r r ism ism, , C Cuu l lttuu r r e e aa n n d d B Busiusi n n e e ss ss IIssuessue 28 28 • • 2015 2015

ne of Reykjavik’s most notable landmarks is Hallgrímskirkja, Owhich towers over the cityscape from a hill in the city’s centre. The street leading up to the church is famous for its bustling street life, diverse restaurants, art galleries, innovative design shops and quality shopping.

The rock collectors Given Reykjavik’s relatively short history, it is hard to imagine that, only two centuries ago, a group of schoolboys collected rocks and stones from the area, scaled the hill and proudly raised a cairn to honour their newly built school nearby. The year was 1793, only sevens years into Reykjavik’s official trading town status, and the hill had not yet been built upon and, in fact, was registered as a Photo from the year 1902 of a seven-metre high tower was raised in 1834 on the top of the hill, falcon reservation at the time. providing splendid views over the city on “School cairn’s hill”

No horses allowed the state architect of Iceland had big plans Make room for Leif The hill was thus named Skólavörðuholt, which for Skólavörðuholt as a centre of culture, The statue of Leif Eiriksson, the first literally translates School cairn’s hill. The education and religion. Although those European to discover North America, on cairn didn’t prove to be a durable construction ambitious plans didn’t work out as the Skólavörðuholt was a gift from the United and fell into disrepair, so city officials took university was given land further to the States for Iceland’s millennium celebration action. A seven-metre high tower was raised west, he did design the majestic church that of Althingi’s founding in 1930, but to make in 1834 on the top of the hill, providing stands there today. room for the generous gift, the splendid views over the city. tower on Skólavörðuholt was The city also committed to demolished, leaving people maintain the tower and the The statue of Leif Eiriksson. without a favourable view over surrounding area and thus a the city. road leading up the hill was This was remedied as built. The road was given Samúelsson’s plans for the name Skólavörðustígur Hallgrímskirkja, the grand and was meant as a scenic church on top of Skólavörðuholt pedestrian street and therefore named after Iceland’s primary all traffic by horse was forbidden psalm composer, Hallgrímur (also to minimize the road’s Pétursson, were made into rom ock maintenance). The ban on horse reality. He started designs in traffic proved to be difficult as 1937 and construction started in F R the hill was also used as a rock 1945, though the church wasn’t uarry to quarry for constructions in the completed until 1986 - 36 years Q city, especially the harbour area, after Samúelsson’s death. which meant hauling rocks down the slope had to be done by A Lasting Monument manpower. The church has proven to be a lasting monument, as the A man with a vision surrounding area has changed ity The first buildings started rising from a rock quarry with a around Skólavörðuholt in the cairn on top into a lively and C th mid-19 century, some of which colourful neighbourhood are still standing and preserved where Reykjavik’s top chefs, A Brief History of Skólavörðustígur by the city, including the still- designers, craft folk and andmark th used city prison. In the early 20 artists congregate. L century, Guðjón Samúelsson, -VAG 14 15 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

MastersGet a Glimpse of Icelandic Masters on and Contemporary Display Artists at Gallery Bakarí in Downtown Reykjavik kólavörðustígur is the hippest street in Reykjavik 101 and Gallery Bakarí is at Sthe centre of it all. The cosy gallery is home to an impressive number of local artworks that are on display and for sale. The owner and staff members take great care in rotating the exhibitions, making sure the gallery experience stays fresh. Some of the artists that have been on display at Gallery Bakarí include Kjarval, Karólína Lárusdóttir, Ásrún Kristjánsdóttir, Eyborg Guðmundsdóttir, and Sæmundur Valdimarsson. "We have one of the biggest collections of the old masters and contemporary artists, as well as newcomers," says Árni Thor, a staff member at the gallery. "We change the artists often and while we are a small gallery, there is always something new Celebrating Icelandic Nature through Textile Design to see." The gallery is open Monday-Friday from 10 a.m.-6 p.m. and on Saturdays from 12 p.m.-4 gallery can be opened. Contact Sveinn Gallery Bakarí p.m., and closed on Sundays. However, if the Thorhallsson at +354/690-0931. Keep Gallery Skólavörðustígur 40 • 101 Reykjavik +354 551 0161 gallery is closed, people are always welcome Bakarí in mind to see traditional and modern [email protected] Gjóska Wool Art to contact the staff at any hour to see if the art in Reykjavik. -JG www.facebook.com/gallerybakari extile artist Birna Kristín Friðriksdóttir In 2013 Gjóska Clothing Company was set walks through the pasturelands up, allowing Birna full reign to indulge her thatT surround her farm Brúnagerði, in the passion for clothing design. She’s been going Fnjóskadalur valley, North Iceland. In summer, full steam ever since. the countryside is full of life and bursting with energy. Plans for the Future In winter, the profound Birna hopes to export her creations to other stillness of this valley is nations where the northern lights are visible, restful and refreshing. Now, such as Canada, Finland and northern in late September, the rapid Norway. Closer to home, plans are afoot to transition from summer to bring northern lights tours to her workshop winter begins and it is here in lights display, or the lava falls from the in Fnjóskadalur as an exciting addition to the midst of all this splendour, eruption of Eyjafjallajökull in 2010. Once northern lights tours in North Iceland. that Birna gets her inspiration, in hefty daily the patterns are created, Birna cuts the You are welcome to visit Birna at her doses, while working out of her studio. material into shapes that will then be workshop in Fnjóskadalur, a 30-minute sewn into woolen outerwear - hats, drive from Akureyri or to pop in to the retail 100% Icelandic Craftsmanship gloves, jackets, capes & ponchos shop at Skólavörðustígur 20, 101 Reykjavik Her medium is textiles. Reams and of course sweaters, in her to see her creations. of knitted Icelandic wool is own inimitable style. They make wonderful mementos of your her canvas upon which she trip to Iceland! -EMV skillfully incorporates strands Inspired by Nature of loose unspun merino wool, After many years working Gjóska Wool Art interspersed with flashes of as a textile teacher in her Skólavörðustígur 20 • 101 Reykjavík neon green or bright red/ hometown of Grenivík, +354 863 6112 orange silk, evoking a Birna felt the call to move [email protected] Find them on Facebook: Gjóska magnificent northern into the realm of clothing design. 16 17 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

took place there in the 18th century. After a ferocious storm swept away all settlements at the turn of the 19th century, the island was repopulated and was finally purchased by the city of Reykjavik in the early 20th century, as it was considered a convenient location for fish industries and shipping docks. A fish liver oil factory was set up on the island; a process which created unique pungent odours which travelled across the city, much to the annoyance of its inhabitants, to which the owner of the factory simply replied “it’s the smell of money.” The island was originally only connected to the mainland by a rocky reef, which was covered during high tide. The reef was piled up with rocks in 1913 making it accessible to the public and quickly became a popular The New Home for Innovation and Culture area for outdoor activities. During the Second World War British troops used the randi island as their base and constructed several few years ago a visit to the Grandi be found in Grandi; just be prepared to wait The Smell of Money large buildings there, and since the end of Gharbour area in Reykjavik would in line if the sun is out. This overhaul of Grandi’s appearance and the war the island has been a site for large Amost likely have been an unremarkable The Reykjavik Maritime Museum is the purpose is however not its first. It is in fact industries. In 1980 a landfill was made, experience for non-industry workers, heart of Grandi; connecting the harbour to a landfill connecting a small island to the roads paved and more houses built, fully but in a relatively short time this former the streetlife and the past to the present. The mainland. It was at one point in transforming it into an industrial zone. industrial area has been transformed into Saga Museum goes further back, all the way time in possession of a monastery, The people have now taken the area back, a lively neighbourhood where the past, to Viking times, offering vivid recreations a monopolistic trade company, as it were, and filled it with life, culture present and future meet. of the period. Nature enthusiasts will not and shipbuilding and a bright future. -VAG Now you’ll find exciting restaurants, be disappointed by the gigantic Whales of seemingly designer shops, cafés, IT companies and Iceland museum or the Aurora Reykjavik – museums intertwined with the area’s old Northern Lights Center. fisheries-related operations. Once dreary Shopping in the area is both easy and buildings have been renovated and huge fun; as you have the option of big grocery murals cover former barren walls. shopping on one side and going to an artisanal butcher or fashion The Best Ice Cream in Town? designer on the other side. A walk along Grandagarður street is thus full of sights and activities. Old baiting shacks have been transformed into designer to the area and set up shops there. Those who a fish and chips restaurant, a burger joint studios and shops. Renowned fashion and are looking for a bite to eat or sit down for and an innovative café based on Icelandic Photos complimentary of Faxaflóahafnir jewellery designers have thus taken a liking a drink have several options: two cosy cafés, traditions. Some say the best ice cream can Photographers: Emil Þór and Gunnbjörn Marinósson 18 19 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lT u r e a n d Busi n e ss issue 28 • 2015 Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015 Tou r ism, Cu lT u r e a n d Busi n e ss issue 28 • 2015

nly at affivagninn TakingOTaking Traditionalnly Traditional Icelandic a FoodIcelandicT to the KNext Food Levela toFFI the Nextvagn Level Inn oTakingo Traditionalnly Icelandic a FoodT to the KKNext LevelaFFIvagnInn oo much muchmuch has hashas been beenbeen written writtenwritten about Icelandic aboutabout Icelandicfish,Icelandic the fish,starsfish, inthethe the starsstars crown inin thethe of crown crownmany ofofa SmanynewSmany restaurant aa newnew restaurantrestaurant in Reykjavik. inin Reykjavik.Reykjavik. 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GummiGummi hashas beenbeen cookingcooking for 40 years and it clearly shows. He turns CatchCatchAurora Reykjavik’s thethethe Northern Northern NorthernNorthern Lights Center lets youLights LightsLights see the Lights All All Allall year Year YearYear Around AroundAround for 4030 years and it clearly shows. 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BeforedisplayBefore leaving,leaving, of clothing, bebe suresure glassware, toto grabgrab aa freefreepaintings cupcup ofof TheThe chef’schef’s choice,choice, thethe ‘Fish‘Fish Pan’Pan’ waswas servedserved Northern Lights Center, where the Northern coffee in the Northern Lights Center gift to me piping hot, right in the frying pan - Northern Lights Center,Center, wherewhere thethe Northern Northern Soothing Sights and Sounds coffeeand woollen in the knitwearNorthern by Lights some ofCenter Iceland’s gift to me piping hot, right in the frying pan - LightsLights areare alwaysalways onon display.display. However, Aurora Reykjavik’s real pull and mostshop andcreative check designers. out the impressive The theme? display You of aa gratingratin ofof codcod loinloin withwith shrimp,shrimp, béarnaisebéarnaise Lights are always on display. SoothingSoothing SightsSights andand SoundsSounds shop and check out the impressive display of a gratin of cod loin with shrimp, béarnaise However,aceHowever, up its Aurora Aurorasleeve Reykjavik’sReykjavik’sis its fantastic real real pullpullHD and andtime- ace ace clothing,guessedclothing, it. glassware,glassware, paintingspaintings andand woollenwoollen-EMV sauce,sauce, butterybuttery potatoespotatoes andand somesome freshfresh up its sleeve is its fantastic HD time-lapse film knitwear by some of Iceland’s most creative greens on the side. Delicious! AA Unique Unique Experience Experience uplapse its filmsleeve of is recentits fantastic auroral HD activity. time-lapse Projected film knitwear by some of Iceland’s most creative greens on the side. Delicious! AThe Unique centre Experience is the unique creation of four of recent auroral activity. Projected onto a 7 designers. The theme? You guessed it. – EMV Under glass-domed cake stands, a variety The centrecentre is is the the unique unique creation creation of four of ofonto recent a 7 metreauroral wide activity. screen, Projected you can ontosit back a 7 designers. The theme? You guessed it. – EMV Under glass-domed cake stands, a variety fourenterprisingenterprising enterprising youngyoung IcelandersIcelandersyoung Icelanders whowho recognisedrecognised who metreandmetre enjoy widewide this screen,screen, 13 minute youyou cancan film sitsit backback that andand features enjoyenjoy Setting the record straight ofof enticingenticing home-home- mademade goodiesgoodies suchsuch asas recognisedthethe needneed forfor the justjust need suchsuch for ajusta place—place— such a a aplace— kindkind ofof thisathis dazzling 1313 minuteminute display filmfilm thatthatof auroral featuresfeatures activity,aa dazzlingdazzling WhileSetting in Iceland, the you record might bestraight told that the traditionaltraditional IcelandicIcelandic pancakes,pancakes, waffles,waffles, wellwell asas enormousenormous kleinurkleinur andand ‘love‘love balls’balls’ thethe perfectperfect finishfinish toto anan alreadyalready perfectperfect meal.meal. one-stop-shop for all things Northern Lights. display of auroral activity, accompanied by Setting the record straight ‘marriage cake’, Sarah Bernhardt cakes, as are on display- any one of which would be Doors open at 7.30 a.m. weekdays and 9.30 aone-stop-shop kind of one-stop-shop for all things Northernfor all things Lights. displayaccompanied of auroral by relaxing activity, music. accompanied Therapeutic by outsideWhile inair Iceland, temperature you mightneeds beto betold around that the 0°C ‘marriage cake’, Sarah Bernhardt cakes, as areon display-on display- any anyone oneof which of which would would be thebe DoorsDoors open open at 7.30at 7.30 a.m. a.m. weekdays weekdays and 9.30and Located on the far side of Reykjavík’s Old relaxing music. Therapeutic and restful are While in Iceland, you might be told that the a.m. on weekends, but also close early at NorthernLocated on Lights. the far Located side of Reykjavík’son the far sideOld relaxingand restful music. are two Therapeutic words that comeand restful to mind are outsideor below air in temperature order to see theneeds Northern to be aroundLights. well as enormous kleinur and ‘love balls’ are perfect finish to an already perfect meal. a.m.9.30 a.m.on weekends, on weekends, but butalso also close close early early at Harbour, the centre serves both educational two words that come to mind to describe this outside air temperature needs to be around 6.00 p.m., so you’ll want to make sure you ofHarbour, Reykjavík’s the centre Old servesHarbour, both theeducational centre twoto describe words that this comezen-like to mindexperience. to describe this 0°CThe oftor belowquoted in but order erroneous to see assumptionthe Northern is 6.00at 6.00 p.m., p.m., so you’llso you’ll want want to make to make sure sureyou and inspirational purposes. Here you can read zen-like experience. 0°C or below in order to see the Northern get in promptly to grab a table. Popular with servesand inspirational both educational purposes. and Here inspirational you can read zen-like experience. thatLights. the Northern The oft Lights quoted only but appear erroneous at these getyou in get promptly in promptly to grab to agrab table. a table. Popular Popular with Lights. The oft quoted but erroneous locals, Kaffivagninn is ideal for an early purposes. Here you can read up on the Hot coffee and choice gifts assumption is that the Northern Lights only locals,with locals, Kaffivagninn Kaffivagninn is ideal is forideal an for early an assumptiontemperatures. is that We the would Northern just like Lights to set only the breakfast or a lovely weekend brunch and a auroras through stories and legends Before leaving, be sure to grab a free cup appear at these temperatures. We would just breakfastearly breakfast or a lovely or a lovelyweekend weekend brunch brunch and a appearrecord at straightthese temperatures. that while it is We true would that the just great place to sample traditional fare with an from around the world, learn something of coffee in the Northern Lights Center like to set the record straight that while it is greatand a place great to place sample to traditionalsample traditional fare with fare an likeNorthern to set Lightsthe record do happen straight to thatbe visible while more it is updated twist. true that the Northern Lights do happen to updatedwith an updatedtwist. twist. trueoften that when the the Northern air is cold Lights and dothe happensky is clear, to Kaffivagninn celebrates its 80th birthday be visible more often when the air is cold and Kaffivagninn celebrates its 80th birthday betheir visible appearance more often has whennothing the to air do is with cold actual and this year, so do go if you get a chance...it’s the sky is clear, their appearance has nothing this year, so do go ifif youyou getget aa chance...it’schance...it’s the sky is clear,temperature their appearance of the air. has nothing down by the water’s edge in the Grandi area to do with actual temperature of the air. down by the water’s edge in the Grandi area to do with actual temperature of the air. of Reykjavik. - EMV of Reykjavik. - -EMVEMV Aurora Reykjavík KaffivagninnKaffivagninn Aurora Reykjavík Grandagarður 10 • 101 Reykjavik Grandagarður 2 • 101 Reykjavík Grandagarður 10 • 101 Reykjavik Grandagarður 2 • 101 Reykjavík +354 551 5239 +354 780 4500 +354 551 5239 +354 780 4500 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.kaffivagninn.is www.aurorareykjavik.is www.kaffivagninn.is www.aurorareykjavik.is 201616 172117 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com TTouou r r ism ism,, C Cuu l ltTuu r r e e aa n n d d B Busiusi n n e e ss ss Iissuessue 28 28 • • 2015 2015

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and dresses; Farmers Market also creates hichIc quality pants, skirts, tops and underwear Cc andfor women.dresses; FarmersFor men, Market the brandalso createsoffers qualityknitwear pants, along skirts, with tops shirts, and pants, underwear vests ataModernT IcelandicIcelandict TFashion Fashionss Brand Brand Farmers Farmerseses Market MarkettT Makes Makes Waves Waves in Grandi in Grandi forand women.underwear. For Scarvesmen, theand brandhats are offers also II Bb knitweara must foralong men with and shirts, women. pants, Adorablevests and underwear.sweaters and Scarves jumpsuits and hats are are on also offer a must for armers Market is an Icelandic design forchildren. men and women. Adorable sweaters and armers Market is an Icelandic design company and clothing brand that jumpsuitsFarmers are onMarket’s offer for children.flagship shop, company and clothing brand that features designs that mix modernity FarmersFarmers & Market’s Friends, flagship is situated shop, Farmersin the Ffeatures designs that mix modernity with withF classic Icelandic heritage. Natural &up-and-coming Friends, is situated Fishpacking in the up-and-coming District in classic Icelandic heritage. Natural fibres, fibres, muted colours and unrivaled FishpackingGrandi. Just Districta 20-minute in Grandi. walk from Just the a muted colours and unrivaled craftsmanship craftsmanship are at the centre of each 20-minutecity centre, walk Grandi from isthe home city centre, to a growing Grandi are at the centre of each piece of the piece of the collection. isnumber home to aof growing businesses number including of businesses a collection. Founded in 2005 by a young artist includingmicrobrewery, a microbrewery, ice cream shop, ice cream restaurants shop, Founded in 2005 by a young artist couple - a designer and a musician, restaurantsand gourmet and butcher. gourmet Farmers butcher. & FarmersFriends couple - a designer and a musician, Farmers Market has become a staple &is theFriends perfect is the place perfect to purchaseplace to purchaseclothing Farmers Market has become a staple in Icelandic fashion, found in the clothingand accessories, and accessories, while while browsing browsing a in Icelandic fashion, found in the closets of artists, musicians, everyday aperfectly perfectly curated curated selectionselection of CDs and closets of artists, musicians, everyday Icelanders and hip tourists. The clothes LPs,LPs, books, books, and and other other goods. goods. It’s aIt’s fun a shop fun Icelanders and hip tourists. The clothes are impeccably styled with pieces toshop spend to spend some sometime timewhile while exploring exploring the are impeccably styled with pieces suitable for city life while sustaining the charmingthe charming old harbour old harbour district. district. The shopThe suitable for city life while sustaining the outdoor elements. “We place ourselves isshop open is Monday-Friday open Monday-Friday 10 a.m.-6 10 p.m. a.m.-6 and outdoor elements. “We place ourselves at a junction,” said Farmers Market Saturdaysp.m. and 11Saturdays a.m.-4 p.m. 11 a.m.-4 p.m. --JG JG at a junction,” said Farmers Market designer Bergþóra Guðnadóttir. “A place designer Bergþóra Guðnadóttir. “A place where heritage meets modernity, the where heritage meets modernity, the national meets the international, and the respect for the environment and the use Millerain to raw Indian silk. The use of Farmers Market | Farmers & Friends national meets the international, and the respect for the environment and the use Millerain to raw Indian silk. The use of countryside meets the city. We find this of natural fabrics. Farmers Market works synthetic materials is kept to a minimum. Hólmaslóð 2 • 101 Reykjavik countryside meets the city. We find this of natural fabrics. Farmers Market works synthetic materials is kept to a minimum. +354 5521960 an exciting place to explore.” with materials including local Icelandic While knitwear is at the core of the an exciting place to explore.” with materials including local Icelandic While knitwear is at the core of the [email protected] The brand focuses on sustainability, wool to waxed cotton fabrics from British brand with luxurious cardigans, sweaters www.farmersmarket.is The brand focuses on sustainability, wool to waxed cotton fabrics from British brand with luxurious cardigans, sweaters 2218 2319 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lT u r e a n d Busi n e ss issue 28 • 2015

Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

CceelebralebratTIingng IIcelandceland’’ss WA CloseClose Encounter Encounterhalesh with with Thoseal Those Majestic Majestic Giantses ofGiants the Deep of the Deep

sound of pulsating waves adds an extra the lobby and the gift shop is where you Closedimension Encounters to this unique of a Cetacean experience. Kind willIf findyou manylove lovelywhales, whale you’ll and findmarine thelife- ersonally, I have always loved whales. excitement and fanfare that Whales of Being in such close proximity to the life-size Whalesrelated items,of Iceland both decorativeexhibition, and located practical. near Blue whales, humpbacks, sperm Iceland’s 1,700 square metre exhibition models gives many visitors a new appreciation ReykjavikIf you love Harbour whales, in you’ll the Grandifind the District, Whales ersonally, I have always loved whales. tribute to these impressive marine mammals Close Encounters of a Cetacean Kind whales, and of course those oh-so-friendly hall opened its doors to the public in ofBeing their grandeurin such andclose scale, proximity while meticulously to the life- toof Icelandbe not exhibition,only an enchanting located near experience, Reykjavik P Blue whales, humpbacks, sperm and it was with great excitement and fanfare dolphins have always fascinated me. Who February 2015. researchedsize models information gives many panels visitors give you thea new low- butHarbour also anin educationalthe Grandi oneDistrict, that theto bewhole not whales, and of course those oh-so-friendly that Whales of Iceland’s 1,700 square metre canP forget the plaintive sounds of the downappreciation on the details of their of each grandeur magnificent and animal.scale, familyonly an will enchanting enjoy. experience, but also an dolphins have always fascinated me. Who exhibition hall opened its doors to the humpback whales that accompanied Judy Madewhile ofmeticulously steel and foam, researched each model’s information ‘skin’ is educational one that the whole family will enjoy. can forget the plaintive sounds of the Soothingpublic in February Surround-Sounds 2015. Collins in her rendition of the old Scottish Whales of Iceland is the largest whale handpanels stitched give you together the low-down and when on finished the details the humpback whales that accompanied Judy The whales would certainly approve! whaling song ‘Farewell to Tarwathie’? exhibition in Europe (and quite possibly largestof each among magnificent them weighs animal. up to Madetwo tonnes.of steel Whales of Iceland is open year round, except Collins in her rendition of the old Scottish The whales would certainly approve! theSoothing planet), Surround-Sounds with 23 full-scale replicas of and foam, each model’s ‘skin’ is hand stitched overWhales Christmas of Iceland and is Newopen Year’s year round, Day. Winter except whaling song ‘Farewell to Tarwathie’? Whales of Iceland is the largest whale the whales that frequent Icelandic coastal together and when finished the largest among openingover Christmas times are and from New 10.00 Year’s a.m. Day. to Winter 5.00 A First for Iceland exhibition in Europe (and quite possibly Free Coffee! The idea for the exhibition came about a waters. Here you can immerse yourself Afterthem you weighs have up had to timetwo tonnes.to soak up the magic, p.m.opening times are from 10.00 a.m. to -EMV5.00 the planet), with 23 full-scale replicas of fewA First years for ago Iceland in response to mounting in another realm and forget your cares take a moment to enjoy a hot coffee or tea in the p.m. - EMV The idea for the exhibition came about a few the whales that frequent Icelandic coastal interest in whales worldwide, coupled (for awhile at least) of the world ‘up top’. main hall - it’s on the house. years ago in response to mounting interest waters. Here you can immerse yourself Free Coffee! with the rise in tourism to Iceland. With Beautiful, soothing surround-sounds of WhaleAfter youwatching have tourshad timecan beto booked soak up in thethe Whales of Iceland in whales worldwide, coupled with the rise in another realm and forget your cares Fiskislóð 23-25 • Reykjavik 101 the help of private investors, plans were whale songs, clicks, as well as the gentle lobbymagic, and take the a giftmoment shop isto where enjoy you a hot will coffee find in tourism to Iceland. With the help of (for awhile at least) of the world ‘up top’. +354 571 0077 laid to create a tribute to these impressive sound of pulsating waves adds an extra manyor tea lovely in the whale main and hall marine - it’s onlife-related the house. items, [email protected] private investors, plans were laid to create a Beautiful, soothing surround-sounds of marine mammals and it was with great dimension to this unique experience. bothWhale decorative watching and tourspractical. can be booked in www.whalesoficeland.is whale songs, clicks, as well as the gentle 20 21 24 www.icelandictimes.com 25 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

The Northern Lights season IDays Tours Uor Privatepon Tours with Reykjavik U Excursionss

eykjavik Excursions is one of Iceland’s purple. The guide will tell you all about the together theatre, history, mythology and scheduled bus service called Iceland on Your a completely different world. It cuts down oldest and most popular tour northern lights on the tour and if you do not music. Own which runs from spring to autumn. your travel time and allows you to make the companiesR and has over two dozen tours on see the lights, you can rebook again free of After the show, you will be offered Reykjavik Excursions also operates the Hop most of your time. Iceland on Your Own offer all year round. The company aims to charge. a traditional Icelandic meat soup, with On – Hop Off City Sightseeing service. is a scheduled bus network which offers have something on offer for everyone. vegetarian options available as well as a The tour company’s webpage is also full travellers increased flexibility and freedom The winter time is when you can see the Horse Theatre and children’s menu. After nourishing body of information on all of the tours it has on when exploring Iceland. It is available to northern lights. With plenty of darkness and Northern Lights Tour and soul, you head out for a northern lights offer. There it is possible to book tickets to individuals and groups and the scheduled often clear skies, it is the season to enjoy the The Icelandic horse is a special breed of hunt. all of their tours, including Flybus and Blue buses run across most of Iceland including lights and Reykjavik Excursions offers a few horses, which by most standards would be Lagoon transfers. Reykjavik Excursions runs the Icelandic highlands. different variations of northern lights tours. categorised as a pony. However, due to its Warm Baths & Cool Lights a pick-up service to many of Reykjavik’s Passengers can hop on one of the scheduled From the original northern lights tour, to a weight and weight-carrying abilities it is From BSÍ Bus Terminal, you are taken to hotels, hostels and guesthouses. buses on a designated stop anywhere in the tour where the hunt for the northern lights registered as a horse. They are well known Fontana Wellness geothermal baths, which is country. This enables those who have rented a is combined with a horse show or stop to be friendly and fearless, often galloping a small and intimate spa next to Laugarvatn Plan Your Own Tour car, for example, with Enterprise Rent-A-Car, at Fontana Wellness spa in Laugarvatn, towards the fence when they see people in South-Iceland. There you will get ample The private tours are tailor-made to fit to venture further inland. The highlands of everyone should be able to find something to passing by. time to have a soak and afterwards you those with special wishes. The groups Iceland are mostly only accessible by special their liking. As part of the Horse Theatre and will get to fill up on your energy with a can be big or small, with people of all vehicles. Northern Lights Tour, you will be driven delicatessen from the local style buffet. ages; the team of experienced planning Whatever your needs or wishes, Reykjavik Northern Lights Tour to Fákasel Horse Park in South-Iceland, After this relaxing time, you will go out professionals are there to make your Excursions will be able to help you out. -HDB This is the original northern lights tour. The where you get to see the show Legends on a hunt for the northern lights, which dream holiday come true. destination varies between days, depending of Sleipnir. It is a fifty-minute long hopefully will give you the show of a lifetime. Additionally, Iceland is a destination Reykjavik Excursions on the weather forecast and where the best multimedia theatre, with performers and like no other with its exotic locations, BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík northern lights sightings are expected to Icelandic horses. The show brings to life the Reykjavik Excursions Is So Much More combined with the many possibilities +354 580 5400 be. The sky is often lit up in a breathtaking story of the Icelandic horse and its unique Apart from day tours, Reykjavik Excursions for fun activities. You do no have to go [email protected] www.re.is dance of colours ranging from green to relationship with humans by weaving offers private tours, incentive tours and a far out of the capital, Reykjavik, to be in 26 27 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lT u r e a n d Busi n e ss issue 28 • 2015

Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015 Two Icelandic themed villages Two Icelandic themed villages “You haven't been in Iceland if you haven't been to us“ Don’t miss it! “You haven't been in Iceland if you haven't been to us“ Don’t miss it!

The Viking Village is a unique place. It is the The Fisherman's village, our newest only Viking theme Hotel and restaurant in accommodation is Hlið in Álftanes only few Iceland. We have step by step been developing minutes drive from the Viking Village. our facilities over the last 24 years and will HL I Like a country home by the seaside. IÐ ÁLFTANES hopefully continue to do so in the future. We Such an idyllic place to visit. The Viking Village is a unique place. It is the Restaurant & The Fisherman's village, our newest offeronly Viking Hotel accommodationtheme Hotel and andrestaurant Viking in Lodging accommodationThe restaurant is is open Hlið forin Álftanes groups in only the few houses.Iceland. Good We have for familiesstep by step and bgroups.een developing mevenings.inutes dr Closeive from to the the P Vikingresident Village.'s residence. our facilities over the last 24 years and will HL I Like a country home by the seaside. IÐ ÁLFTANES hopefully continue to do so in the future. We Such an idyllic place to visit. Restaurant & offer Hotel accommodation and Viking Lodging The restaurant is open for groups in the houses. GoodViking for families afeastsnd groups. - Souvenirs - Live entertainmentevenings. most Close to the nights President's residence. 15 minutes drive I enT to the city centre irent Booking: www.vikingvillage.is | +354 565 1213 R Viking feasts - Souvenirs - Live entertainment most nights 15 minutes drive to the city centre Booking: www.vikingvillage.is | +354 565 1213 cCarar rRenTtalal Affordableompany Iceland cCAffordableomp Iceland any inally a car rental company with The least expensive car? It’s the 5-passenger affordableinally a car prices! rental Knowing company that with the HyundaiHyundai i10,i10, pricedpriced atat €39.00€39.00 aa dayday fromfrom standardF affordable price for prices! even a Knowingsmall 2-door, that nothe SeptemberSeptember 1st1st 20152015 toto MayMay 31st31st 2016.2016. AtAt frillsstandardF passenger price car for can even cost a small upwards 2-door, of €100 no thesethese prices prices how how can can you you NOT NOT affordafford toto visitvisit -EMV afrills day inpassenger Iceland (incar winter, can cost and upwards even more of IcelandIceland thisthis winter?winter? -EMV in€100 summer), a day in I Icelandwas intrigued. (in winter, Surely and thereeven wasmore a incatch summer), - hidden I was fees intrigued. or extra charges Surely iRent Car Rental somewherethere was ain catch the fine - hidden print? Ifees decided or extra to go Hólmbergsbraut 1 • 231 Keflavik charges somewhere in the fine print? I +354 544 5868 / +354 844 5868 straight to the top and find out for myself. [email protected] (Okdecided it’s a tosmall go straightfamily-run to thecompany top and so findthis www.irent.is wasout notfor myself.difficult.) (Ok it’s a small family-run companyI spoke toso iRent’sthis was affable not difficult.) owner Björgvin SævarssonI spoke whoto iRent’s assured affable me that owner what youBjörgvin see isSævarsson what you who get. assured Unlimited me that miles, what all you taxes see s. is what you get. Unlimited miles, all taxes eat price and fees included in the price, and a very and gr and fees included in the price, and a very ly service nice selection of new and almost new cars to , friend nice selection of new and almost new cars to New cars ces. choose from, starting at €39.00 a day. You reat pri choose from, starting at €39.00 a day. You ice and g can even rent a bicycle or an all-terrain vehicle, www.lagooncarrental.is y serv , friendl orcan opt even for rent their a bicycle high-end or an luxury all-terrain cars suchvehicle, as tele. +w35 4c-a51r7s-1221 N theor opt Cadillac for their Escalade high-end or luxurythe Hummer cars such H2. as www.lagooncarrental.is the Cadillac Escalade or the Hummer H2. 24 tel. +354-517-1221 The least expensive car? It’s the 5-passenger 25 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 28 29 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

he rave et the est TThe Sea Baron’s BFish Meals Attract Visitors G from All Over the World B celand has many ‘different’ foods which have their roots in seafaring history. The Vikings cameI up with many novel ways of preserving their foods and their traditions continue to this day. Some of these foods sound unappealing, to say the least, and it takes the adventurous soul to step out and try them. Iceland is for the oe the uice adventurous and they reap the benefits of the J & J brave. The timid stick to burgers!

The Sea Baron in True spirit A former fisherman and Coast Guard chef, Kjartan Halldórsson, also known as the Sea etting uiced Baron, is the master of unusual fish dishes. G J His lobster soup, for example, has gained fame around the world, earning it the title of ‘the world’s greatest lobster soup’. While he in celand never revealed the secrets of his recipe, that has oe & the Juice is an on-trend coffeeI shop/ never stopped the restaurant from being filled juice bar that opened in January 2015 at every day with aficionados. KeflavJ ik International Airport. The concept He entered the restaurant did Elísabet make a with great impact, delicious and stirring—as are answers today’s traveller needs for a quick pick- business by chance. One great investment the great variety of other fish spears with a mix me-up in the form of great espresso drinks, day, when standing by by purchasing the of cod, blue ling, salmon, trout, lobster and giant freshly pressed smoothies and juices, and a his boxes of fish, some restaurant, but he shrimp, to name a few. Also worth mentioning variety of sandwiches prepared on the spot. foreign visitors asked if was included in is an Icelandic specialty dish, available at noon he could prepare some the deal himself. on Thursdays, a combination of fermented A Winner Is Born fish for them. Spotting Kjartan’s spirit will fish. On the first Saturday of the month they Created by the Danish entrepreneur Kaspar an opportunity, he ran to surely remain palpable offer skate with heaps of hamsatólg (fried Basse, Joe & the Juice won the prestigious the nearest hardware store to buy a as visitors will not only feel his fat), potatoes and rye bread with butter. This FAB Awards in the category of ‘Best Airport grill—and was in business! His visitors were energy but he will actually be there to greet delicacy is only available from 1st September – Coffee Shop of the Year’ in Copenhagen for if you want to up your caffeine intake with invited to dine in his shop in this improbable them in the form of a wax sculpture! 30th April. For desert, as a true Icelander, one 2013 and 2014. a double shot in your latte and you choose restaurant. Word quickly spread and soon he should enjoy grjónagrautur—or rice pudding of your cup size—in pink, purple, yellow or was shifting his boxes out to make room for Dining as a Seafaring Experience sorts, often served with raisins and cinnamon Whew! Hot! grey. How about a ginger shot for a natural tables and chairs. He took the unusual and Kjartan’s restaurant is popular with the flavoured sugar. The popular brand, known for its attractive Up’—passion fruit, ginger and apple, boost of energy? Coming right up! Just ask! created delicious meals that no one else had fishermen who sailed for many years from ‘juicers’ and hip electronic dance music, can be ‘Joe’s Green Kiss’—spinach, ginger and thought of. He took old recipes, some of which Reykjavik. It is filled with memorabilia donated Bon Voyage Sea Baron! found all over Denmark, and has been popping apple and one called ‘Hell of a Nerve’— Where to Get Juiced in Iceland sounded revolting, and made meals that have by old sea captains and their families that fill it The Sea Baron will be missed dearly by all who up elsewhere in Europe—Norway, Sweden, strawberry, elderberry and banana, are You can find Joe & the Juice at Reykjavík’s established his reputation around the world. with a character all its own. Handmade model knew him. His heritage will live on and there is Germany, the UK, France and more recently, sure to grab your attention. For a distinctly Kringlan Shopping Mall, Kópavogur’s sailing boats, pictures of ships of the past and no doubt that his recipes will continue to warm here in Iceland. According to Joe & the Juice’s Danish touch, Joe’s sandwiches are made Smáralind Shopping Mall, Laugar Fitness The Passing of the Sea Baron stuffed birds fill the second floor’s walls, where the bellies of both Icelanders and travellers alike Icelandic manager Daníel Kári Stefánsson, with traditionally baked rye bread, using Centre and Keflavík Airport’s check-in Kjartan, the true Sea Baron, has recently groups of up to 35 can celebrate together. Eating for generations to come. This man has surely "People come for the atmosphere as well as for flavourful combinations of fillings such as lounge. A new Joe & the Juice will open in passed away. But his legacy will surely live at the polished tables, sitting on cushioned fish put his mark on the restaurant landscape and the healthy drinks, and it’s been going even Serrano ham, mozzarella and tomato, and KEF airport’s departure lounge on March on for many years to come. A few years ago, barrels, surrounded by paraphernalia of the changed the way we perceive a grand dining better than we initially expected. The reaction a touch of pesto. 15th. This is one place to check out! -EMV Kjartan passed his mantle on to Elísabet Jean sea, it is an experience that will leave you with experience. - ASF from the Icelandic public has been great". Skúladóttir, an energetic and vibrant young both good memories, a satisfied appetite—and Joe Vatnshellir& The Juice – IcelandCave woman who actually bought the restaurant perhaps, a rather shocked mind that you would Sea Baron Size Matters Kef.Airport • Kringlan • Flavour, Nutrition and Hydration Joe & the Juice uses a unique blend of coffee Smáralind • World Class at the Sea Baron’s request. Kjartan wanted to actually have eaten fermented fish and that it Geirsgata 8 • 101 Reykjavík +354 585 0800 +354 553 1500 Unmistakable names for freshly pressed beans that have been specially cultivated [email protected] make sure his place would be well taken care of tasted so, so good. Moby Dick on a Stick (minke [email protected] www.joeandthejuice.is juice combinations such as ‘Sex Me in South America. There’s no extra charge in the future, but he used to joke that, not only whale on a spear) for example, is a play on words www.saegreifinn.is 30 31 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

Refinement in Reykjavik he early Einar Ben Brings Style and Class to Dining in the Capital TRÉTTIR Y inar Ben is one of a select few restaurants heep ound up Ein the highly competitive Reykjavik Sn September the majority of farmers R reclaim- them again by the! end of summer? scene, where new, trendy places come and across the country will be herding We did some research to unveil the secrets go on a monthly basis, that has found its theirI sheep from the plateaus of Iceland, surrounding the roaming sheep, which way into the Icelandic psyche and has been which have been roaming freely in the most travellers have encountered on their able to maintain the delicate balance of class, wilderness throughout the whole summer. journey in the countryside of Iceland. comfort and top-rate food at reasonable The sheep round-up is an annual event prices that inspires customers to return. that most farmers look forward to as it Born to Be Wild…. will reveal the results of the quality of Once a dam gives birth to a lamb, she is Home of a Hero their year’s production. The occurrence commonly kept inside the cowshed for the The restaurant is, in fact, the former home also serves as a major social setting and first two weeks, followed by a two week of one of Iceland’s greatest heroes, after is typically enveloped with good spirits adjustment period on the farmland. After Photography: Anna Maria Gunnþórsdóttir whom it is named. Einar Ben was a poet (partially from flasks being passed that the magic begins. Depending on the and pioneer who personified the dreams around), gatherings of friends, rejoicing of location of the farm, it is often enough for and ambitions of Icelanders in the early neighbours and, of course, some singing So how does this whole process work? the farmers to simply open their gates to 20th century. and dancing. And the younglings love to How on earth can farmers simply let their the wild and the sheep will know what is It is easy to see why the restaurant has take part in the gaiety. domesticated sheep go, and then expect to expected of them – to leave the farm. Some become a part of Reykjavik’s culture. It retains the romanticism and grace of the Golden Age period and yet it is free of Dishes With a Difference proud of their menu, from the hors d’ oeuvres, pretense and excess. You’ll find none of the Of course, what matters most is the food, the main course to the desserts and coffee modern, careless, fast food rush here. The and here, Einar Ben’s reputation is well drinks, the master chef creates sublime staff enjoy taking time to provide a quality known. Its dishes are built around the tastes which blend together for an amazing service in an open, friendly manner. classics: fish and lamb. They are justifiably dining experience.

Fortified for the night Up on the third floor of the house is fun surprise: Rauði barinn, Einar Ben’s lounge. It’s the perfect place to relax with some after-dinner drinks. Reykjavik’s nightlife is legendary, so the ‘Red Bar’ will prepare you to start a night on the town. Einar Ben is found on the corner of Ingólfstorg, at the end of Austurstræti, right in the city centre. –ASF Einar Ben Restaurant Veltusund 1 • 101 Reykjavík by Ingólf’s Square +354 511 5090 [email protected] www.einarben.is 32 33 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

farmers may need to transport their sheep beforehand. Amazingly, the good attempts to follow its mother to the in trucks to the heaths to set them free. knowledge of the dams gets passed other side of the road, jumping The dam will guide her lamb to succulent on through generations, and the without warning in front of grazing grounds where she and her young ewe lamb, once grown up, will passing traffic. If you are met will feed of forbs, seaweed, heather and eventually follow her mother’s path with the unfortunate tragedy sometimes on the leaves of the short- and lead her own younglings to the of driving over a sheep, please statured birch spinney. Any type of sprout same locations. be kind enough to notify the is their particular favourite. They will appropriate authorities about the cover large areas on their journey without Home Sweet Home mishap. This will inform the farmer ever coming in touch with fertilised Once all the sheep from the region have about the loss or allow for necessary pastures. This all-natural superfood will been gathered into the fold, the sorting measures to be taken, such as providing result in remarkable growth of the lamb. begins. Thankfully, each sheep is carefully medical care for the sheep. Most farmers It is common practice to free the sheep in marked to ensure the rightful reclamation will not insist on any penalties to be early June, when the lamb weighs about by the farmer. A fully grown brood ewe will country roads, riding trails and beaten paid as they are already insured for such 7 kg (approx. 15 lbs). Once the sheep is have three types of markings; a mark on paths, they are sometimes forced to use the causalities. collected in September or early October, her horn to refer to her province, a plastic main roads. In which case you might come on average the lamb will have gained a label in her ear to refer to her district and across a traffic disturbance that will look Making a Mark staggering 35 kg (80 lbs). This amounts Momma Knows Best! of winter-fed sheep they keep. The more an earmark which pertains to the farmer. quite unconventional. Whilst travelling the beautiful countryside to almost 400 g of added weight per day - Once it is time to herd the sheep from sheep, the more manpower they possess Not only do the thorough markings ensure of Iceland you will without doubt come and hence the lamb will have sextupled its the summer feeding grounds a good and thus a larger search area, measured the reunion of the sheep and owners but By All Means! across free ranging sheep, either close-up by weight in only three months! Of course organisation comes in handy. The sheep in workdays, is assigned to them. But they also play a key role in preventing theft. Do drive carefully when exploring the the side of the roads, or at the very least, as weather conditions play a major role as herders will comb the areas against the here’s where the farmers’ experience is Once all the sheep have been accounted countryside of Iceland - not only during white clouds dressing up the landscape from the weight gain of the lamb is directly borders of their neighbouring parishes. paramount. Most farmers know their for, the farmer will eagerly tout the sheep to the round-up season, but throughout the afar. They certainly put their mark on their correlated to the sprout of the vegetation. Farmers are assigned a certain amount sheep and their habits so they have a their homeland. Though they try to make summer, at the time when the sheep roam surroundings and have served as inspiration of workdays depending on the number pretty good idea of their whereabouts an effort to keep their herding limited to free. Most accidents occur when the lamb to Icelandic artists throughout time. -ES

Photography: Dagmar Trodler 34 35 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

IcelandOne Man’s Journey to From Get to Know His Above Native Country

etting to know a country is a lifelong “You truly get the Gjourney and, while most of Iceland’s whole context when visitors have to make do with first impressions, viewing from above, majestic as they might be, they can now which is not easily expand their experience through the arduous available otherwise, work of pilot and photographer Björn and I try to present Rúriksson. In his photography book, ‘Iceland this experience in my From Above’, he has captured the essence of book”, says Björn. Iceland in a breathtaking manner, soaring countless times above its landscapes in a plane, A Work of Art camera in hand. Volcanic activity in Iceland is a large part Björn has been doing this for decades of its identity and is constantly changing and proudly claims that the distances and forming the island, which has not gone distinctive features are accentuated and he’s covered flying over Iceland during unnoticed by Björn, as he has flown over and put into context with Iceland’s ongoing his photography missions equals flying 15 photographed 16 different volcanic eruptions geological history. ‘Iceland From Above’ times around the globe. Getting the perfect all over the country. thus has three different functions, as shot requires repeated approaches and The book is clearly divided into chapters it were: as a reference book for tourists finding optimal conditions, which means by regions and each chapters begins with while touring Iceland, as a souvenir from that Björn has, on some occasions, visited concise information where the region’s a memorable trip to Iceland and simply as locations up to forty times just to get the a work of art. perfect shot. But according to Björn, it’s West worth every minute as he feels it is the best Available in Six Languages way to truly comprehend what Iceland is ‘Iceland From Above’ is available in six he beauty and variety of Icelandic nature made of. Iceland is, of course, ever-changing different languages: Icelandic, English, T is everywhere in the West of Iceland. with its contrasting dark winters and bright French, German and now Russian and Magnificent views overlooking mountains summers, melting ice and burning fires and Chinese. It comes in two formats; regular and glaciers, fertile regions, colourful birdlife, Map © Ólafur Valsson Iceland by visiting these same locations again and size and a pocket sized version, both abundant rivers and lakes, fjords and bays, along again Björn says he feels like he’s getting printed on high quality paper to give the Björn’s work is on display all year around in the with gushing geothermal activity. Land and closer to really knowing Iceland. photos added depth and quality. -VAG history form an unbroken whole as the setting Geothermal Energy Exhibition in Hellisheiði for sagas like Sturlunga, Egil’s Saga, Eyrbyggja and Laxdaela, not to mention the rich folklore and tales of adventure. Tours bring history to life as museums and historical sites abound.

Pictures complimentary of Ágúst Atlason, Marketing Office of the Westfjords marketing office, www.west.is.

RúBen | Grundargata 59 · 350 Grundarfjörður | TEL: +354 438 6446 | www.facebook.com/kaffi.grundarfirdi Laki, the volcanic fissure 1783.

36 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 37 Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

Stöðin and Kirkjufell by Grundarfjörður.

Texts and photos © Björn Rúriksson

The majestic Eiríksjökull glacier towers above the Western highlands (1675m). The magnificent glacier-topped Mt. Snæfellsjökull (1446m).

Löngufjörur on the southern beaches of Snæfellsnes peninsula.

Gatklettur rock at Arnarstapi with the Arnarstapi village. 38 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 39 TTouou r r ism ism,, C Cuu l lttuu r r e e aa n n d d B Busiusi n n e e ss ss IIssuessue 28 28 • • 2015 2015

The Ungodly Dream Sources vary as to what led to the discovery Björn’s character disorders began to appear of the horror in 1596, but it appears that in his teenage years when he became bad- one of his intended victims got away to alert tempered and closed-off. Folklore claims the authorities. Some sources claim that the that he played truant at mass one Sunday, survivor was a mother of two, who barely instead falling asleep and dreaming of a escaped with her life after losing both of her man offering him a plate with pieces of raw children to Björn’s rampage. Others tell of meat. He greedily gobbled the meat bites, travelling siblings that stayed the night at one after another, but after the eighteenth Öxl, and before escaping, the brother hid bite he felt nauseated. The same man then in the sewage as Björn butchered his sister. instructed him to go to Mt. Axlarhyrna to To this day, the number of Björn’s find an instrument that would serve him victims remains uncertain, although many well in the years to come. Sure enough, sources agree on the number 18. Björn this is where he is said to have found the himself only admitted to 9 murders but axe that he later used to slay his victims. investigators’ findings, mainly the human Shortly after, the cowman on the farm remains in the mere, suggest there were disappeared and was never seen or heard far more. Björn’s claim that he had found from again. the additional bodies and disposed of them to relieve himself of inconveniences, was The Rising of a Serial Killer deemed unbelievable. After the passing of Ormur, Guðmundur’s wealth and heft grew over and beyond A Bloodline of a Butcher his father’s. He built his stepbrother the Björn named his wife as his accessory and so farmstead Öxl (genitive Axlar) which Björn they were both sentenced to death. Björn’s drew his cognomen from after settling execution was gruesome and slow. First his there with his wife, Þórdís. Visible from limbs were shattered with a sledgehammer the main road, the farmstead’s charming and then cut off, along with his head, and exterior attracted unwary travellers, many stringed to poles. His private parts were of which became Björn’s prey. In addition cut off and tossed to his wife’s lap, but her to fulfilling his homicidal tendencies, he is execution was postponed as she was with believed to have stole valuables and horses child at the time. There are no records to of his victims, mainly due to the couple’s conclusively warrant that her sentence was flush lifestyle which contradicted their ever enforced. earnings. Later that year, Þórdís gave birth to their celand s Björn’s compatriots had long suspected son who was called Sveinn skotti Björnsson. that something was off on the farmstead He inherited his father’s evil nature and was I ’ but his stepbrother’s influence resulted hung in 1648 when found guilty of a rape in lack of further investigation. And so attempt. He had spent his life wandering wn Björn was left undisturbed to practice his the country committing numerous heinous O xe atrocious acts for years, brutally murdering crimes. The same fate was dispensed to his A Photo: Mt. Axlarhyrn by Finnur Malmquist men, women and children. He disposed son, called Gísli hrókur Sveinsson, who was of the dead by sinking their chopped up also hung for his crimes in Dyrhólaey. bodies in a deep mere on the premises, urderer called Ígultjörn. Morbid Memories lthough having a stunningly low Though the existence of this man Cravings for Human Blood thirst but she eventually confided in him, Amazingly, there is an inhabited farm called crime Mrate and a first place ranking and his horrendous acts are undisputed, Born in 1555 in one of Iceland’s most admitting that she feared that the child she An old lady is said to have lulled an infant Öxl standing right where these horrific in the Global Peace Index as the the details regarding the course of his scenic areas on the beautiful Snæfellsnes carried might not be righteous. to sleep with the following verse in the events took place. If you are intrigued, a most peaceful country of all, Iceland is life are somewhat conflicting between Peninsula, Björn did not differ from his two Björn’s father, Pétur, was a ploughman for sitting room at Öxl, as advice for a couple visit to this historical site would be well Anot without a gory history. Anyone who various sources, some of which date back older siblings the first years of his life. His a man named Ormur, from the farmstead of wayfarers that were considering staying worth your time. Another interesting site has read a few pages of the bloodstained more than 400 years. Admittedly, the mother, however, is said to have suspected Knörr. Ormur was rich and influential in the the night: close by is Laugarbrekkuþing, the place of Sagas knows this, where newly chronicle has a tincture of folktale-feel early on that her child was not right, even as community. The two men were good friends Björn’s execution. introduced characters rarely survive to about it, but the fact remains that Axlar- she carried him in her womb. She endured and so it was decided that Ormur would None should lodge with Gunnbjörn Of course, a visit to these sites would see the next page. But tales of shocking Björn is the most notorious serial killer horrendous dreams during the pregnancy foster Björn when he was four years old, as who has the fancy clothes. make for an opportune moment to cruelty and torture are rare, making the Iceland has ever seen. His killing spree and suffered from the unconventional was common practice to support needful He takes them to Ígultjörn mere. explore the outstanding landscape of the reports of a 16th century serial killer lasted for several decades before he was cravings for human blood. Her husband families during hard times. Björn was well Blood flows stunning Snæfellsnes Peninsula – and give named Axlar-Björn unique. executed in 1596. drew blood from his foot to quench her cared for in his new home and became good down the road you a unique chance to absorb the local friends with his stepbrother, Guðmundur. and I rock you child, until you doze. hospitality while at it. - ES

40 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 41 Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

Borgarnes in

TheBorgarfjörður Heart & Soul of Iceland’s Cherished Sagas

hether you’re off to visit Akureyri, converge.... and to take time out for some the Westfjords, or Snæfellsnes in-depth exploring of this important Peninsula,W the journey to Iceland’s north historical region that is oft overlooked. always includes a stop in the village of The town offers wealth of activities and finest bakery. So, when you are travelling Borgarnes. It’s time to stretch one’s legs, services that you would normally not expect through Iceland, be sure to take your time have a bite to eat and soak up nature’s to find in urban area of this size. There and explore this historical district where the lunging magnificence in this most picturesque are museums, restaurants, art galleries, Icelandic sagas come to life and the nature spot, where mountains, sea and sky guesthouses and of course one of Iceland’s consumes you with its quiet grandeur. -EMV P TheI Settlementnt Centero in Borgarnes H Takesi Youst on a Tripo Throughry Time Geiri’s Bakery or Geirabakarí ome 1100 years ago, Iceland was a place over you. On the lower floor the exhibition on onsidered by some to be one of the best covered with impenetrable forests and saga hero and settler’s son Egill Skallagrímsson bakeries in Iceland, Geirabakarí of Sdangerous bogs, and it took a bunch of bold takes you right into the story, with Egill’s spirit BorgarnesC is a well-known pit stop for those men to cross the rough North Atlantic sea, to joining your steps. making the journey north. Light lunches of discover the remote island and determine to soup and sandwiches, slices of traditional settle there, in order to start a new life. They Art Turns Into Life cakes and pastries, excellent coffee and the were the first to name rivers, mountains and Visual artists from Iceland and abroad exceptional view are all a part of the charm. places that are world famous today, and still contributed their work to both exhibitions, Popular treats include ‘love balls’ - similar to many farms are able to trace their history back making perception a unique experience. Each the traditional Icelandic ‘kleinur’ but with to the days of the settlement. As the most audio tour takes 30 minutes, returning the raisins and ‘snúðar’- sweet cinnamon rolls iced important source for Iceland’s history rates visitor into daylight with the urgent desire to with a layer of chocolate. Geiri’s Bakery made the saga collection, a ring of exciting stories learn more. The Settlement Center’s shop serves headlines as the location that was used for ‘Papa around these first settlers. Experiencing as a treasure chest regarding books on saga John’s Pizza’ in the movie ‘The Secret Life of Iceland thoroughly means paying tribute to literature, as well as viking themed handicrafts Walter Mitty’ and relevant clips from the film their achievements, which made the country and woollen items created by local artists. Take are shown in the bakery throughout the day. what it is today. exhibitions on the bold men who followed your time to finish your visit with a dinner in the - EMV Open daily Monday - Thursday, 7.00 their curiosity into the unknown. cosy restaurant that perfectly catches the house’s a.m. - 7.00 p.m., Friday 7.00 a.m. - 6.30 A Warehouse Turns Into Exhibitions Provided with an audio guide available in atmosphere and boasts a range of sophisticated p.m., weekends 8.30 a.m. - 5.00 p.m. In 2006 an Icelandic couple, actor Kjartan 15 languages, visitors find themselves in an Icelandic food at reasonable prices. -DT Ragnarsson and news reporter Sigríður elaborate labyrinth that displays history in The Settlement Center Margrét Guðmundsdóttir, decided to dedicate the most exciting way. Step on a moving boat Geirabakarí Brákarbraut 13-15• 310 Borgarnes Digranesgata 6 • 310 Borgarnes a project to the settlement’s story. They found and get a feeling of how it must have been to +354 437 1600 +354 437 1920 a charming old warehouse in Borgarnes in cross the ocean in a nutshell! Listen to stories, [email protected] www.landnam.is [email protected] Geirabakarí West Iceland and started building up two while bodies preserved in glass silently watch

42 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 43 Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

Shaped A Base by on the Snæfellsnes th Peninsulae Bay

n the northern part of the Snæfellsnes countenance and maintaining old traditions will probably get in your lifetime. A common information about the region and its history. peninsula lies Stykkishólmur, a from the bay area. practice is to offer guests to sample whatever The house itself was built in 1832 by Árni picturesqueO seaside town that overlooks Visitors will get a chance to experience seafood delicacy comes up when t h e Thorlacius, who was a merchant and ship the beautiful Breiðafjörður bay. The this when dining out in Stykkishólmur, nets are pulled, such as sea-urchin owner in the 19th century. ranging from a quality campsite, budget town’s rich history as a centre for trading, where they’ll get fresh ingredients from the or scallops, while hostels and high-class hotels. You’ll find transportation, culture and service for the bay and surrounding area, served on plates sailing between the A Library of Water quality restaurants, a supermarket, golf bay area gives it a unique sense of antiquity made by local chefs from local ingredients. seemingly countless Stykkishólmur also prides itself on fine course and an amazing swimming pool, and historical significance. The town’s centre islands and enjoying the museums that represent the two prevailing in which the water has gotten a quality is home to some of the most colourful and Sail Away in Breiðafjörður Bay quiet grandeur of the scenery. elements of Icelandic nature: fire and water, certification from Institut Fresenius, two oldest houses in the country – almost If you only have time to partake in one activity in both original and conventional ways. In hot pots with water straight from the earth making the whole town a museum in itself. while you’re in Stykkishólmur, a chance to A Trifle of Culture the case of water, on the highest point of and an excellent waterslide. Stykkishólmur is viewed as one of go sailing in Breiðafjörður bay is not to be History and culture Stykkishólmur, with its splendid views, the old The Snæfellsnes peninsula is a must to Iceland’s most charming towns by many missed. There are numerous professional are prominent in town library has been changed into a museum visit when coming to Iceland. It is strewn Icelanders. The town’s proximity to guides available in the area that will Stykkishólmur as the of water, weather and words. In the museum about everything connected with volcanoes, with natur al, historical and mystical Breiðafjörður bay contributes largely to happily provide you with this unforgettable town has three museums. you’ll find 24 glass columns with specimens of eruptions and other geological matters, but phenomena and Stykkishólmur is the ideal the town’s character, surrounding it with experience. A calming cruise navigating the In the ‘Norwegian water from all the primary glaciers of Iceland, also see how these strong forces of nature have base to explore it. -VAG exclusive natural beauty. As does the town’s stunning islets gives a unique opportunity House’, the oldest two in a piece made by renowned artist, Roni Horn. been expressed in artwork throughout the historical significance, as a former centre to view the splendorous wildlife in the area storey timber house in centuries, in Iceland and around the world. Stykkishólmur for trade and commerce centuries ago, and close-up, such as the seals and the colourful Iceland, you will find The Volcano Museum Hafnargötu 3 • 340 Stykkishólmur a seat of government. The inhabitants have seabirds inhabiting the holms, including the the Snæfellsnes district Dr. Haraldur Sigurðsson, the world-famous The Perfect Base +354 4338120 [email protected] consciously made an effort to preserve the distinctive puffin from just metres away. You museum. There you volcanologist, founded the Volcano Museum Accommodation and services in www.visit.stykkisholmur.is town’s old spirit, by retaining the town’s will have a chance to taste the freshest sushi you can receive a lot of in 2009. In the museum, you not only learn Stykkishólmur are plentiful, with options

44 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 45 Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015 Soak Up SjávarpakkhúsiðSplendid Seafood in Stykkishólmur Restaurant & Bar

næfellsnes espite its humble beginnings as a fish S packing plant, or perhaps because of it, SjávarpakkhúsiðD is fast becoming known in Kasten Guesthouseinsula this part of Iceland as one of the places to go for Pprovides accommodation, straight-out-of-the-boat fish and seafood dishes. It’s a small unpretentious place, decorated with camping and nature an unmistakably minimalist Icelandic flair. There’s no hiding behind pompous decor or gaudy frills - the beautifully presented food takes centre stage, as well it should. Specialties include generous portions of blue mussels in white wine dependent on availability, scallops cooked to perfection, and music or whatever strikes their fancy. Built right here in Stykkishólmur. Please see a hearty fish soup. Top it off with a local craft over 100 years ago, Sjávarpakkhúsið boasts Sjávarpakkhúsið’s website below for opening beer or glass of wine and you have the makings the more recent addition of a large veranda hours, daily specials and more. - EMV of a great meal out. Musically endowed patrons that overlooks the harbour where colourful have been known to spontaneously break out fishing vessels of every size are neatly arranged. Sjávarpakkhúsið Restaurant & Bar into song on the in-house piano or guitar, and The cosy ambiance, the authenticity of the Hafnargata 2 • 340 Stykkishólmur a few times a month local musicians pop in for picturesque setting and the succulent food +354 438 1800 [email protected] he silver and white lines of Kast an evening jam session of spirited Icelandic folk all add up to an excellent dining experience www.sjavarpakkhusid.is Guesthouse stand out in stark contrastT to the earthy tones of the surrounding nature here on the south shore of Snæfellsnes Peninsula. To the south, the waters of Faxaflói Bay lap gently upon the shore and to the north, craggy rhyolite mountains rise up directly behind VikingSushi Adventure tours the guesthouse. In the distance, the glacier- - wonders at sea all year around - see schedule on www.seatours.is topped Snæfellsnes Volcano sits serenely in all its splendour, just waiting to be explored.

Sleep in Heavenly Peace bathe in naturally carbonated geothermal Family-run Kast Guesthouse opened for water with not a drop of chlorine. The water business in 2011 but recently added an is rich in minerals and its healing properties additional house to their accommodation. are especially effective for eczema and morning from 7.00 to 10.00 and a variety Known for great atmosphere and hospitality, psoriasis. At winter time the opening hours of breads are baked daily on the premises. this hidden gem offers both double, triple are irregular but they try to keep it open During the day, the café is open for snacks and family rooms, all spacious yet cosy. All when weather allows, so look them up on and sandwiches and, in the evening, a basic, 27 rooms (21 with ensuite bath and 6 with Facebook to keep tabs on the opening hours. fixed menu is served from 19.00 to 22.00. shared facilities) are equipped with soft The centrally located guesthouse is white bed linens, modern bathrooms and Horse riding and fishing approximately 2 hours drive from Reykjavik comfortable double beds, ensuring you have The guesthouse offers guided horse riding and a 40-minute drive from Stykkishólmur. a restful night’s sleep in the absolute peace tours from one to three hours long in the Open year round, Kast Guesthouse and quiet of the Icelandic countryside. surrounding area, and relatively inexpensive welcomes you. -EMV fishing licenses can be arranged for fishing in nearby lakes. Swim in the Sparkling KastVatnshellir Guesthouse Cave Seatours - Smidjustigur 3 - 340 Stykkisholmur Waters of Lýsuhólslaug Lýsudal • 356 Snæfellsbær Iceland - [email protected] - Tel: +354 433 2254 Just a few minutes walk from the guesthouse Wake up to freshly baked bread +354 421 5252 [email protected] is the Lýsuhólslaug swimming pool; one of A light and typical Icelandic breakfast is www.kastguesthouse.is the few pools in the world where you can served in the main dining room every

46 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 47 Westfjords

Map © Ólafur Valsson

HHave a Fabulousúsið Meal, Listen I to Lives Music H and Stayappening Overnight at Húsið in Ísafjörður safjörður is a gorgeous northwestern town meal at the restaurant for under 10,000 kr with of fewer than 4,000 people, nestled in food and drinks.” theÍ Wesfjords. Home to towering mountains, endless coastlines, and a charming downtown Live Music area, Ísafjörður has a lot to do and see. One On Friday and Saturday nights, Húsið is the place not to miss in Ísafjörður is Húsið, a hippest place to be in town as the restaurant bustling coffeehouse, restaurant and guesthouse has live music ranging from local acts that is situated in a charming old house along in the Westfjords, to bands the scenic harbour area. and singers from Reykjavik Húsið, which means “the house”, offers soup is a lovely starter course and around the country. he ‘Lonely Planet’ guide put great food in its restaurant as well as being a but also lives up to serving as a Léttöl Léttöl Locals and tourists can be TWestfjords on its list of the top cosy café and during weekends, it turns into a satisfying main course. seen enjoying the music, 10 regions of the world to visit in nightclub. A guesthouse is located on the top “We want to offer good spending time with friends 2011 and the area won a ‘European floor. The restaurant serves up delicious, fresh quality food at a good price,” and having a couple of Destination of Excellence’ (EDEN) entrees ranging from tender lamb chops to said owner Sigurlaug María drinks while soaking in the award. A very sparsely populated the fish of the day, which can be cod, spotted Bjarnardóttir. “We are a family sounds of Icelandic music. region of Iceland, it is home to catfish, halibut or saltfish, all for an affordable business and it was important for the Arctic fox, a dizzying variety of birdlife and a nature that is simply price. The most popular dish, of course, is the us to have a menu and prices that could Cosy Guesthouse breathtaking. With precipitous cliffs noted seafood soup which is made fresh every accommodate families. For example, a family After a day of exploring the town or going that plunge almost vertically to the day using the catch of the day and shrimp. The of two adults and two children can have a great on an excursion around the Westfjords, deep blue seas below, its multitude Húsið has a comfortable room waiting for of beautiful fjords, its hot springs, you upstairs in the guesthouse section of pure streams and waterfalls, it’s a the house. There are five double rooms with place for the nature-lover to be awed comfortable beds, tasteful décor and shared by its silence and tranquility, pierced bathroom facilities. There is even sleeping only by the birds. The mystical bag accommodation for four people, which Breiðafjörður bay, with its countless is perfect for the budget traveller. The rooms islands is home to all kinds of sea life and tours out into the bay will have breathtaking views of the harbour and visit islands covered in birds, with the mountainous landscape. -JG some offering sea fishing. The tourist information office in Borgarnes HúsiðVatnshellir - Café • Restaurant Cave • Bar provides a wealth of helpful material. Hrannargata 2 • 400 Ísafjörður +354 456 5555 Pictures complimentary of Ágúst Atlason, [email protected] Marketing Office of the Westfjords Húsið Veitingahús Ísafjörður. marketing office, www.westfjords.is. 48 49 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

Seyðisfjörður, Mt. Hestur and Hestfjörður in Ísafjarðardjúp.

Hornvík and Hornbjarg.

Texts and photos © Björn Rúriksson The beige coloured shell-sand spit of Sandoddi in Patreksfjörður.

The big fjord of Arnarfjörður.

Succession of Tertiary lavas ornamenting the mountains above Reykjarfjörður in the Strandir region.

Ísafjarðardjúp and island of Æðey. The magnificent promontory of eroded Drangaskörð at Strandir.

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Kaupmaðurinn: ye on esign safjörður is the unofficial capital of the EWestfjords, but don´t let that “title” fool D you;Í it´s a small, charming town of about 4,000 people. A short drive outside town, you´ll find towering mountains, interesting rock formations, and more sheep than people. Ísafjörður is a good base for exploring the Westfjords and an increasingly popular stop on cruise ship itineraries. The town itself is quaint with an adorable downtown area with shops, guesthouses and restaurants and the surroundings are picturesque with mountains in the background and a bustling harbour. During your shopping outing in town, one shop not to miss in Ísafjörður is Kaupmaðurinn, a colourful and design- focused shop that has been open since the spring of 2013. Tourists and locals love to Among the carefully stocked shelves, visitors that Ísafjörður prices can be lower than don´t worry, because Kaupmaðurinn its eclectic shops. Kaupmaðurinn is the peruse the shop, from luxury items such as will find fine woolen clothing from Farmers Reykjavik´s and locals love to stock up on ships worldwide. You can check out their perfect place to get a keepsake from your fur scarves to traditional Icelandic sweaters, Market, minimalist jewellery from Aurum unique Icelandic-made gifts. Some of the Facebook page, which staff monitor daily, unforgettable trip to the Westfjords. -JG jewellery, accessories for the home, children’s and other designers, fine fur accessories from most popular gifts are scarves, hats and here: clothing, hand carved knives, wool blankets, Feldur Verkstæði, and cute bow ties from gloves by designers like Vík Prjónsdóttir and www.facebook.com/Kaupmadurinnahorninu pillows and fashion accessories. Kaupmaðurinn Deathflower, among many other brands. soft fur collars and hats from Feldur. Ísafjörður is simply beautiful with endless Kaupmaðurinn is a one-stop shop for Austurvegur 2 • 400 Ísafjörður In addition to the diverse design items For those that can´t get that item out coastlines, jaw-dropping bird cliffs, and Icelandic design and the owner carries an +354 456 4070 on offer, customers are thrilled to learn of their mind after stopping by the shop, gorgeous mountainous landscapes, but [email protected] astonishing number of Icelandic brands. www.facebook.com/Kaupmadurinnahorninu don’t forget about the downtown area with 52 53 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

Ísafjörður’s Pristine Winter Playground The Call of the Wild QUARTINETS Tungudalur 66.056547, -23.224723 Seljalandsdalur 66.066113, -23.214956

n just a few weeks’ time, the last vestiges of autumn will give way to winter; Ísafjörður’sI fall colours will disappear under the inevitable snow that blankets the area, thus heralding the start of skiing season here in the capital of the Westfjords. Despite the areas are within all-encompassing winter darkness that creeps easy reach of comfortable across the land, the town’s folk look forward ski lodges where one can warm up to this time of year, taking advantage with a hot cup of coffee, buy snacks of the well-lit ski areas and enjoying the or rent ski equipment. pristine wilderness that is their backyard. Ísafjörður is, after all, a ski town where every Breathtaking Backcountry Skiing year, 90% of its 3,000 strong population In recent years, the area around Ísafjörður fantastic place for backcountry skiing. The take to the slopes in some way or another, has been showing up on the radar as a terrain is varied with everything from gently whether it’s snowboarding, downhill, cross- rolling hills to steep, gnarly couloirs and country/nordic, backcountry skiing and there is no need to travel long distances from even participating in a good old-fashioned town to enjoy an unforgettable day in the snowball fight. mountains. There’s also the option of taking Ísafjörður - A Rare a boat to the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve to Opportunity for Beauty It’s that unvarnished rugged aspect of ski this dramatic backcountry area. Here you Where Elite and Recreational Ísafjörður that makes it such a compelling can spend your days in the mountains, and in Skiers Rub Elbows destination - a compact little town where The highly accessible ski area comprises the the evening, return to your lodgings onboard everything is practically within arm’s reach, twin valleys of Tungudalur and Seljalandsdalur a sailboat or in an old renovated farmhouse with a surreal beauty that defies description, with their many facilities that cater to all where you can enjoy a fine dinner and a good coupled with an unearthly quiet that is not types of snow sports. Seljalandsdalur provides night’s sleep. found, let’s face it, in just about any other groomed cross-country/nordic ski trails as well place on earth. -EMV as wide-open terrain for those looking for an Annual Events in Ísafjörður the Aldrei fór ég suður rock festival. In early the marathon offers a variety of distances off-piste experience. Tungudalur has three lifts Every year Ísafjörður hosts many local events May, Ísafjörður hosts the annual Fossavatn including a 50 km course. This year, the and groomed runs for all levels of difficulty, based on its rich cultural and skiing heritage. Isafjordur Ski Area - Dalirnir tveir Ski Marathon, attracting locals as well as Fossavatn Ski Marathon celebrates its 80th from beginner slopes to the sheer vertical One such event is the popular Easter Ski +354 450-8000 visitors from around the world. Suitable anniversary and is the oldest skiing marathon chutes that are highly coveted by the most Week with a varied programme of outdoor +354 878-1011 for participants of all ages and abilities, in Iceland, dating back to 1935. [email protected] advanced extreme-sport enthusiasts. Both activities and local culture, culminating in www.dalirnir.is 54 55 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com ummer in the North is characterised by the midnight sun. You can play golf, go seal and whale watching, Shorse riding, hiking, swimming, fishing, river rafting, bird-watching, camping or simply enjoy the disparate Northforms of nature. The region wears a Icelanddifferent coat in winter, when you can ride horses on the frozen lakes in Mývatn under the Northern Lights or ski the slopes just minutes from Akureyri town centre. Northern Iceland is probably Iceland’s most diverse region—in every sphere. Nature varies from the mystical area around Mývatn Lake, a birdwatching paradise, to the awesome horse-shoe canyon of Ásbyrgi, the thunderous waterfalls at Goðafoss and Dettifoss, Askja’s calderas and volcanoes, or islands like Drangey, to name a few. The region is bursting with vibrant history, just waiting to be enjoyed. Museums are found in almost every town, with fascinating insights into fields such as the seals at Selasetur in Hvammstangi or the Whale Museum in Húsavík to the turf house of Glaumbær farm in Skagafjörður. Then Skagaströnd, home to the Museum of Prophecies is known as the country music capital of Iceland. In Hjaltadal valley in Skagafjörður is Hólar, formerly the episcopal see and site of the first printing press. Siglufjörður hosts the Folk Music and Herring museums. Blönduós has MÝVATN NATURE BATHS several museums, as does Akureyri, the largest town of the north, along with its art galleries and rich culture. EXPERIENCE – RELAX – ENJOY The Mývatn Nature Baths Enjoy a relaxing visit to the Nature Baths. Begin with a relaxing dip in clouds of steam rising up from

Map © Ólafur Valsson fissures deep in the earth’s surface and end with a luxurious bath in a pool of geothermal water, drawn from depths of up to 2,500 metres. Mývatn Nature Baths are perfect for those who enjoy close contact with nature and want to relax their body and soul in the warm natural waters, overlooking the scenery of Lake Mývatn and the volcanic crater of Hverfjall.

The Kaffi Kvika Restaurant Welcome to Kaffi Kvika or “Magma Café” located at the Mývatn Nature Baths. Here our guests can enjoy light meals, drinks and sweets in a beautiful setting with a great view of the area.

Opening Hours High season (June, July, August) 09:00 a.m. - 11:30 p.m. Low season (September - May) 12:00 noon - 9:30 p.m. Pétursborg Guesthouse 601 Akureyri Lake Mývatn Area The region is one of Europe’s greatest natural treasures. Shaped by repeated volcanic eruptions Phone: 00354 461 1811 Pictures complimentary E-Mail [email protected] of www.northiceland.is. and seismic activity down through the ages, the landscape around the 37 square kilometre lake www.petursborg.com is a spectacular panorama of surreal lava, crater and cave formations. The wetlands around the lake are teeming with plant and birdlife and are also home in summer to the swarms of comfortable, family friendly and peaceful place midges from which the region takes its name. with a magnificent view over Eyjafjörður Our staff is happy to help you out with information about things to do or see in the area. rooms for 1 to 4 people Mývatn Nature Baths / Jarðböðin við Mývatn Jarðbaðshólar, 660 Mývatn, Iceland Tel: (+354) 464 4411, Email: [email protected] StayStay with with us onStayus onthe with the countryside! us countryside! on the countryside! Centrally located1- and in2 bedroomAkureyri apartments for rent FamilyFamily run guesthouse.owned Familyguesthouse. owned Private guesthouse. Rooms or shared with Rooms private facilities with or private shared, cooking or sharedfacilities, facilities, facilities, 1– and 2 bedroomFree apartments parking, Wi-Fi, for rent cooking facilities, breakfast, Wi-Fi, hot tub breakfast,cooking Wi-Fi, facilities, hot tubbreakfast, and laundry Wi-Fi, hot facilities. tub Free parking, Wi-FiCentrally and laundry located facilities. in Akureyri www.naturebaths.com Book your stay: www.petursborg.com 1- and 2 bedroom apartments for rent Book your stay: Book your stay: www.petursborg.com Free parking,www.gista.is Wi-Fi, +354 461 1811 [email protected] Centrally located in Akureyri +354 461 1811 [email protected] +354 694 4314 [email protected] Book your stay: Stay with us on the countryside! www.gista.is Family owned guesthouse. Rooms with private or shared facilities, +354 694 4314 [email protected] cooking facilities,56 breakfast, Wi-Fi, hot tub Book your stay: www.petursborg.com www.icelandictimes.com +354 461 1811 [email protected] Stay with us on the countryside! Family owned guesthouse. Rooms with private or shared facilities, cooking facilities, breakfast, Wi-Fi, hot tub

Book your stay: www.petursborg.com 1- and 2 bedroom apartments for rent +354 461 1811 [email protected] Free parking, Wi-Fi, Centrally located in Akureyri

Book your stay: www.gista.is +354 694 4314 [email protected] Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

A view out to the mouth of Eyjafjörður, the longest fjord in N-Iceland. Hrísey island to the far right.

Texts and photos © Björn Rúriksson

The landscape of Skagafjörður is characterized by large mountain ranges and the broadest valley in N-Iceland.

The haven of seals; Sigríðastaðaós estuary and runoff from the Lake Hópið in the Húnavatns-district. The two lower photos are taken across river Blanda just above town of Blönduós. 58 59 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

FjallabyggðA Tale of Two Villages

t’s a happy tale of how two villages, But no longer! In 2003, after much back Life in Tröllaskagi has been forever creative and entertaining way of bringing The Red, the Yellow and the Blue as well. Its traditional oak boats just add separated by huge mountain ranges and forth discussion and negotiation, plans transformed and the community has felt the subject of herring to life. The museum The unmistakable bright red, yellow and to the authenticity of your journey out on wereI joined together. Miles and miles of for a tunnel connecting the two villages its effects already. According to Sigurður was awarded the Micheletti Award for the blue buildings on the Rauðka Marina serve the open waters of the Arctic Sea, where intimidating and bold-faced mountain were finalised, making it the most ambitious Valur Ásbjarnarsson, mayor of Fjallabyggð, best new industrial museum in Europe in as the main gathering place and landmarks the chance to spot various whale species is peaks, stretch out as far as the eye can project ever undertaken by the Icelandic the merging of the two municipalities 2004. Spread out over several buildings, in Siglufjörður. Named after a well-known optimal. see, standing between Siglufjörður and Road Administration. Then, in 2006 the would not have been possible without the the exhibits revisit Iceland’s golden age local sailor, the Hannes Boy Café, with its Ólafsfjörður, two small fishing villages on residents of the two communities voted tunnels. The residents of the two previously of herring that lasted from 1867 to 1968 cosy rustic ambiance is reminiscent of the Natural History Museum the very northern peninsula of Tröllaskagi, to merge into one municipality, under the separated towns can now enjoy richer and had an enormous impact on Icelandic glory days of the herring era. Opened in in Ólafsfjörður in North Iceland. name of Fjallabyggð. The tunnel, or shall cultural, educational, and employment society and economy. Lively theatrical 2010, Hannes Boy Café is actually a brand A fascinating place for adults and children Although it is only 17 km as the crow we say, tunnels, as there are two of them, opportunities, and the tunnels will provide performances depicting life and times from new restaurant, serving quality food at alike, birds are the primary focus in the flies between the villages, the geography are 11 km in combined length and already better and more varied services in tourism the Herring Era of the 1950’s are scheduled reasonable prices and using the best local museum. However, there are several other of the area dictates a 62 km detour have had an huge impact on residents of the and business. every Saturday in July. It is open from 10.00 ingredients, as much as possible. Right stuffed animals such as goat, polar bear, around the mountains in summer and a now-unified villages. The official opening of to 22.00 between 12th June–18th August, next door, the Red House Café & Bar has arctic foxes, along with fishes and crabs. 260 km detour in winter! One can only the tunnels took place in October 2010. The Rise and Fall of and 13.00 to 17.00 in Spring and Autumn. just opened and is the place to enjoy light imagine the challenges of transportation, Héðinsfjörður is between the villages. It Iceland’s Herring Boom lunches, a glass of wine, and live music. The Photogenic Fjallabyggð communication, safety and a host of related is a beautiful area for hiking groups. There Possibly one of the best, if not the Music in their Bones Finally, the Blue House, also on the marina, With winter right of the heels of autumn, the issues that residents of these remote fjords are many hiking trails from Héðinsfjörður best museum of its kind in Iceland, Another gem in Fjallabyggð is the Folk will serve as a gallery hosting the works of drive to Fjallabyggð has scenic wonders all have had to contend with all their lives. to Ólafsfjörður and Siglufjörður. Siglufjörður’s Herring Era Museum has a Music Centre, which opened in 2006 in local artists. (www.raudka.is) its own. If you happen to be in the north Siglufjörður. Music has always played of the country this fall, a detour to this very an important role in the everyday lives Poetry Centre northerly tip of Iceland is a worthy rgið Restauran of Icelanders which continues to this day. The Poetry Centre opens in Siglufjörður on one that should not be missed. Now, with To t The museum is located in one of the oldest 8th July this summer where you can read the new tunnels in place, the drive to

A cosy restaurant situated by Siglufjörður‘s main houses in Siglufjördur, where the 19th poems by major Icelandic poets and in the Fjallabyggð is a piece of cake. Make sure century Rev. Bjarni Thorsteinsson lived future, also poems by foreign poets. you don’t miss this gem in North Iceland. square renowned for making the best pizzas in Siglufjörður from 1888-98. Bjarni was an avid collector -EMV while offering a range of fast foods as well as of Icelandic folk music, a talented composer Whale Watching in Ólafsfjörður coffee and cakes. and is considered by many to be the ‘father Exciting new developments in whale of Siglufjörður’. Since 2006, the Folk Music watching are now on the horizon for FjallabyggðVatnshellir Cave Centre in Siglufjörður has organised a Folk North Sailing, one of the leading whale Gránagata 24 • 580 Siglufirði Music Academy to coincide with the Folk watching companies in North Iceland. In +354 464 9100 [email protected] Torgið Restaurant & Café • Aðalgata 32 • 580 Siglufjörður +354 467 2323 Music Festival held there in the beginning early June 2011, the well-known company www.fjallabyggð.is of July every year. began offering its tours from Ólafsfjörður, 60 61 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

Siglufjörður’s

panorama across the bay. Then, to start the day off right, head downstairs into Sigló Hótelew Complements theari Town’s Vibrantna Cultural Lifeillage TheJóa Guesthouse Old Post connects Office people and places Kaffi Klara, the book-café, where guests N M V are served a delicious buffet breakfast to n Ólafsfjördur, on the Troll peninsula, floor, that harks back to the old times and get ready for their day. taying at the top of the world has just a cherry-red heart is beating for guests which have garnered much attention. You If you need any help with your plans taken on a new meaning. Driving andI travellers. Jóa Guesthouse, in the will find brand new comfortable beds, basins, or directions, you can find any assistance up the coast to Siglufjörður in North middle of this beautiful North Iceland closets, and, of course, free WiFi. Dark you need at the desk. Iceland is filled with beautiful vistas but town, can easily be found, as it’s coloured curtains in front of every window guarantee It is like the old post office has come Snothing can prepare you for the spectacular bright red. Once having stepped inside, a good sleep, even through bright Icelandic to a pulsating new life as a place for view as you come out of the tunnel into the you won’t want to leave. summer nights. The two bathrooms are fully connecting people and places. –DT fjord, surrounded by snow capped mountains. The town’s old post office has been equipped. Jóa Guesthouse The town itself is set picturesquely on one side renovated brilliantly by a young couple, Strandgata 2 • 625 Ólafsfjörður of the fjord, overlooking the Herring Museum Bjarkey and Helgi. They offer six elegant A Breakfast for Exploring +354 868 5287 and the marina area. [email protected] rooms on the first floor, all of which are When you wake in the morning and open www.joesguesthouse.is furnished with a different type of wooden your curtains, you will enjoy the amazing Completing the Marina Carefully designed to blend into the surroundings and taking full advantage of the spectacular views in every direction, the new 68- room Sigló Hotel has just opened to provide full The Historic Siglo Harbour Hostel and Apartments 4-star accommodation, dining and activities for A testament to the great Herring Era in Café serves up a much-loved seafood soup name, ‘Black Death’, don’t be put off. This visitors to this northern fishing town. Siglufjörður can be found at Siglo Harbour that some claim is the best in the world. English-style stout beer is making a name Speaking of fishing, watching the fishing Hostel. In its heyday, the upper floor housed The café’s friendly owner, Valgeir Tómas for itself and has been very well received fleet sail down the fjord while you’re eating the many workers who came from all over Sigurðsson, is on hand every day, overseeing since its debut in 2011. a delicious breakfast in the restaurant or Iceland to help process the fish. The ground operations himself, making sure everything If you haven’t yet had the opportunity to outside on the patio as the sun climbs over floor served as a warehouse, where hundreds is tiptop and his guests are happy. try this beer, described as ‘spicy sweet, with the mountains and burns off the mist, is an Romance, Relaxation, Business and Sport of barrels of herring were kept before being hints of chocolate and coffee, with a smoky experience you will always remember. Siglufjörður is a vibrant, all-year town, with shipped off to Europe. Now the completely Black Death Craft Beer on Tap aftertaste’ by those in the know, now is the The hotel’s Sunna restaurant overlooks the Restaurants with Character festivals, sports and activities taking place renovated building is a full- Craft beers have been taking time to make it over to Harbour House marina where the fresh catch is landed every Part of the charm of visiting this northern throughout the year. It is a popular ski fledged hostel with an array of the world by storm in recent Café for a taste of the real deal. -EMV day and the best are selected and cooked by town is meeting the people and the Marina resort and the new hotel provides the ideal sleeping options, including 3 years, and it was only a matter Harbour House Café the skilled chefs for dinner that evening. It’s a Village is complemented by the Hannes Boy aprés ski centre. With an outdoor hot tub to fully furnished apartments right of time before Iceland entered Gránagata 5b • 580 Siglufjörður beautiful dining spot with plenty of space for restaurant and Kaffi Rauðka – the bright soothe sore muscles, an infrared sauna and a across the street from the hostel. the fray with its own unique +354 659 4809 individuals, couples or groups. yellow and red buildings on the other side of fireplace room and bar, you have everything [email protected] Nearby, the Harbour House brands. Despite its ominous www.harbourhouse.is The high quality service is matched by the the marina. Hannes Boy is a cosy, romantic you need to relax. It is a truly unique location rooms. There is a good choice of rooms, with environment, offering salted cod and lamb for honeymoon couples while meetings of up 3 suites – two full deluxe suites and a junior dishes that are favourites for lunch or dinner. to 150 people can be held here, making it an suite, large deluxe rooms 29 sq metres in size, Kaffi Rauðka, the bright red house is innovative location for incentive tours. –ASF classic rooms averaging 23 sq metres, and all the hot spot in town. With a casual, relaxed equipped with a range of amenities including family atmosphere, the restaurant’s menu has SiglóVatnshellir Hotel Cave Snorragata 3 • 580 Siglufjörður complimentary WiFi, HDTV, alarm clock, everything from sandwiches, cakes and coffee +354 461 7730 work desk, window blinds, walk-in shower to BBQ ribs and traditional Icelandic hashed [email protected] www.siglohotel.is and more. fish and is open all year round. 62 63 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com 69 www.icelandictimes.com Seyðisfjörður: A Pearl in iny, tight-knit communities extend a warm welcome here. A well-developed Tinfrastructure, with regular flights from Reykjavik to Egilsstaðir, the main hub of the area, East IcelandMap © Ólafur Valsson enable visitors to enjoy the beauty of the region. The ferry from Europe docks at the 19th century town of Seyðisfjörður, making the East a good starting point for a holiday. Tours of all the astfjords types take visitors to Europe’s largest glacier, stark highland mountains and sweet-smelling E heathlands and, for fishing and kayaking, to mirror-smooth fjords. The hiking nature-lover can discover countless spectacular routes, with frequent waterfalls and reindeer sightings. The beauty of this area has drawn artists and designers to the little towns, which have developed their own cultural flavour, many with a strong European—and especially, French or Norwegian—influence. There is a long history of folklore here. Borgarfjörður eystri is w known as the capital of the elves. It’s also an area of hiking trails and birdwatching, with puffins being especially plentiful. Brilliantly coloured semi-precious stones are found in the mountains and Petra’s Stone Museum in Stöðvarfjörður holds probably the world’s largest Hótel Aldan Offers Friendly and Personal Service, Delicious Food Sourced From Local Ingredients and Quality Accommodation private collection.The numerous hotels, guesthouses and camping areas attest to the rising popularity of the area. eyðisfjörður is a small fishing town on the Seast coast of Iceland, with a population of just 700, but it is so much more. It has been a cultural hotspot from the late 1800s, and a modern day haven for artists and an all-around hipster mecca complete with an art school and summer festivals. The town is situated among high mountain peaks, gorgeous waterfalls and historic old houses. During calm winter nights you could experience the magnificent Upscale Stay Various Dinner Options Hótel Aldan features tasteful rooms that are After a day exploring the region, be sure to mountains covered with snow bathed in decorated perfectly with vintage furniture, antique visit one of Hótel Aldan´s three restaurants. moonlight and if you´re lucky, you could see lamps and soft furnishings imported from India. Skaftfell Bistro, which is open year round and the northern lights dancing in the sky. Hótel The beds are outfitted with comfortable mattresses, situated in the basement of the Skaftfell Visual Aldan, a darling 23-room hotel situated in quality linens and luxurious down duvets. The Arts Center, features a delectably diverse menu three historical buildings that used to house hotel is open year-round and is a favourite for ranging from local, fresh lamb and fish dishes to the town´s bank, the post office and store for locals and tourists alike. Furthermore, movie buffs langoustine-topped pizzas. Nordic Restaurant, close to a century, is at the centre of it all. The are thrilled to learn that the hotel was featured which is open for breakfast and lunch all year hotel also offers two family apartments in the prominently in Ben Stiller’s 2013 film, The Secret and dinner from May to September, features Pictures complimentary of Ingi R, town’s oldest school buildings. Marketing Office of the Visit East Iceland Life of Walter Mitty. the best fine dining experience in town with www.east.is. tasteful décor, a friendly staff, fresh fish, local ingredients and unique choices such as a goat cheese salad. Norð Austur, a sushi bar open Comfortable from May to September, is not to be missed in the summer for its super fresh catch, trained Accommodation sushi chefs and exciting Japanese menu of in Stödvarfjördur East Iceland starters, sushi dishes and drinks. 14 rooms all with private bathroom When planning your next trip to the region, Only 350 m from Petra’s Stone Collection keep Hótel Aldan in mind for comfort, class and top-notch dining. -JG Fjarðarbraut 41 HótelVatnshellir Aldan Cave 775 Stöðvarfjörður Norðurgata 2 • 710 Seyðisfjörður S. 511 3055 +354 472 1277 www.saxa.is [email protected] [email protected] www.hotelaldan.is

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Mountain ranges in East Iceland were build up of igneous The weight of the rock some 15-20 million years ago. volcanic pile which thickens towards the center of the country and the huge ad- ditional weight of the big icefields during the ice age, caused down-sagging of the land. Lava layers in the mountains clearly incline towards west, into the center of Iceland.

Texts and photos © River beauty in a calm morning at Berufjörður. Björn Rúriksson

The Kambanes headland and view across the fjord The conspicuous Mt. Búlandstindur (1069m) seen from Álftafjörður. Stöðvarfjörður with the settlement of the same name.

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Álfheimar Country Hotel of

BA Seasideorg Hotel witha a Missionrfjörður Eystri

lfheimar Country Hotel, set in a Puffins Galore According to Arngrímur, “We are a prime seaside location, overlooks the If puffin spotting is on your to-do list this hidden treasure in the trekking world and wide expanses of Borgarfjörður fjord summer, Borgarfjörður eystri could well therefore our guests can enjoy the peaceful onÁ the edge of the colourful fishing village be called the best place on earth to do just area with day tours ranging from a few hours of Bakkagerði. that. Each year, 10 to 15 thousand of these long to multi-days treks, led by experienced The country hotel’s affable owner, charming little birds arrive in mid-April local guides. I like to call it ‘comfort hiking’ Arngrímur Viðar Ásgeirsson, born and and stay until mid-August. Quite tame, because we carry only our daypack, and raised in the area, is fairly brimming these little guys allow you to get within a afterwards you will sleep in a comfortable way to see Iceland, but not the only way”, over with local knowledge. Proud of his few metres of them for that highly sought- hotel room – and of course enjoy our says Arngrímur, who suggests picking one background and heritage, Arngrímur, and after puffin close-up and can often be seen 3-course dinner with wine in our restaurant, to three ‘slices’ of Iceland as a base and his local staff, often take on the role of chief circling the harbour, which provides an surrounded by good company. For even exploring from there. tour guide, much to the delight of the hotel’s ideal lookout point for avid bird-watchers. more comfort, our neighbour, Blábjörg “If you need a place to relax and get out of international clientele. The area of BorgarfjörðurEystri Guesthouse, offers a wonderful ordinary city life, you will find a quiet zone Álfheimar Country Hotel offers 32 has a well-maintained hiking spa and wellness centre with of Iceland at Álfheimar Country Hotel… rooms from single rooms to family size, all infrastructure with over a hot tub and sauna are new to hiking or those who are not keen Iceland’s Elf / Hidden People Debate It’s only a one hour flight via Air Iceland with private bath. Each evening, the hotel 300km of marked that is relaxing after on the ‘mountain hut’ lifestyle, our service To believe or not believe. You decide. Here from Reykjavik to the East. restaurant emphasises a main course using trails criss-crossing a good day’s hike would be an excellent option.” in the Elf Capital of Iceland you can visit “We are more than happy to help you quality fresh fish or lamb supplied by the the fjord’s wild, in the mountains. Álfaborg, a rocky mound that is purportedly plan your stay, suggest itineraries, fetch you area’s fishermen and farmers. deserted inlets. For those who Eco-tourism home to the Queen of the Elves. There are from the airport and basically do everything The community has its roots in eco-tourism, some 172 folk stories about hidden people, we can do to make your holiday memorable placing a special emphasis on respect for elves and trolls that attest to the vast number and enjoyable. That’s our mission!” –EMV nature through environmental stewardship. of these beings that are thought to have This has earned it recognition from the EU’s populated the area for centuries. Elf Tours Brekkubær • 720 Borgarfjörður eystri Blue Flag programme for Hafnarhólmi, its +354 861 3677 environmentally friendly harbour, and for [email protected] Slow Travel Tips from Arngrímur www.elftours.is their sound, sustainable practices. “Rushing around the Ring Road, attempting www.borgarfjordureystri.is www.puffins.is to see the whole country in a week, is one

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68 69 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com SouthSouth Iceland has a long list of sightsIceland and activities

Map © Ólafur Valsson

he wealth of South Iceland lies in the variety of geological, historical and nature T sites along with the long list of activities that can be experienced in the region. This region has geological wonders such as Geysir; the Gullfoss, Háifoss, Skógafoss, ine in the Systra and Seljalandsfoss waterfalls; Þingvellir, where the tectonic plates D crack the Earth; Europe’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull; the Kerið caldera; world- famous volcanos like Hekla, the Gateway to Hell, Lakagígar, Laki, the notorious Eyjafjallajökull and the Katla Geopark; fantasy sites like Þórsmörk and Jökulsárlón. angoustine Here are historical sites like the world’s longest-running parliament at Þingvellir; L museums, churches, the Stöng settlement, the Saga centre and villages like Eyrarbakki. Activities abound. Tours take you to all the sites, including the glaciers. Horse riding tours are popular. Try the riverjet, boat trips or kayaking; scuba diving Humarhöfninapita satisfies the hungerl for whole langoustine in Höfn in clear waters, fishing or caving. Independent travellers can try hiking and cycling, C camping or caravanning. Winter activites are just as thrilling. celand is known for some of the finest fresh char is a delight. The crème brûlée, made Fortunately, there is plenty of accommo­dation available throughout the fish in the world and a large share of the from local eggs and imported Madagascar region from camping to high-class hotels and restaurants to suit every taste. country’s catch is landed at Höfn í Hornafirði, vanilla will have you swooning and you A developed infrastructure helps you get the most from your trips. I on the south-east coast. Höfn (which sounds might want or need to order a double portion. like ‘Hup’ to our ears and means harbour) is also The casual, bright and lively décor fits known as the langoustine capital of Iceland, Humarhöfnin’s harbour location and the where several thousand visitors gather in the friendly wait staff will be happy to point out town for the annual Humarhátið (Langoustine) the very boat that brought in the day’s catch, Festival, to be held in June. moored at the docks just a short distance away. You would expect the langoustine capital of The building itself was originally the town Iceland to have a fine-dining restaurant that popular in the town. The concept is still co-op before it was totally renovated and can do justice to the lovely little crustacean. new in Iceland, so each diner who orders transformed into this beautiful restaurant. The Humarhöfnin sea-food restaurant, which langoustine receives illustrated instructions There is an exhibit on the 2nd floor which has been a big success since it was opened on the finer points of using the langoustine portrays the history of the house. over 7 years ago by Anna Þorsteinsdóttir, her cracker and fork that come with the dish. If you are a langoustine aficionado, you brother Ari Þorsteinsson and their spouses, has The menu was created and developed by can fly, drive or take a bus to Höfn where you definitely earned that accolade. the French chef Jacques DuPont and his will find your seafood haven awaiting you. many dishes such as the beautifully presented -EMV A menu to entice any connoisseur ‘Mix of Whole Langoustine and Tails’ and the A favourite with tourists from the famous ‘Black Magic Sauce’ have been very Humarhöfnin Hafnarbraut 4 • 780 Höfn Mediterranean countries, Humarhöfnin was successful. Paired with one of Humarhöfnin’s +354 478 1200 the first restaurant in Iceland to serve whole specially selected wines, you are in line for an [email protected] langoustine, though it has now become absolute feast. Also on the menu, the arctic www.humarhofnin.is

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The colourful River-beauty and Mt. Stóri Dímon on the Fljótshlíð is one of the fertile agricultural areas of the South. alluvium plain of Markarfljót.

The countryside of Hreppar south of the Gullfoss waterfall.

Mt. Vestrahorn east of town of Höfn, makes the border between South and East-Iceland. This mountain massif is a body of magma Texts and photos © intrusion and remains of a former buried magma chamber. Björn Rúriksson Hekla (1491m) and her lavafields from numerous eruptions of the past centuries.

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The Mysterious HLight, Elvesote and Volcanoes l Laki eruptions in Iceland, where visitors can view otel Laki, located in the countryside layers of ash dating back 1000 years and find in the South of Iceland, offers many an abundance of information on volcanic possibilities for an unforgettable stay. The H eruptions. hotel has large vertical and panoramic The renowned natural pearls of Skaftafell windows which flood the spacious dining National Park, Jökulsárlón, Ingólfshöfði area and other areas with natural light. On and Laki are also in close proximity of the the horizon, the gargantuan Vatnajökull hotel, so if you are planning to do some glacier dominates the landscape, to the hiking during your stay in Iceland, the hotel guests’ delight. is sure to suit your needs. The nearest urban area is 64 rooms in different categories as well as 15 rich birdlife in the vicinity. There you can And There Was Light Kirkjubæjarklaustur where you will find The hotel’s remote location blissfully summer cottages. The family is currently in also buy a fishing licence. both recreational and necessary services, eliminates all light pollution from urban the process of building a house in the style Only 500 metres from the hotel is a such as a swimming pool, post office, areas. This is a fortunate quality as it of the Icelandic turf farmhouse, for guests to mysterious place which is believed by many bank, supermarket, healthcare centre and allows the natural light in the spectacular such an amazing view in the comfort of appearance. Hotel Laki is family run and the enjoy. to be an elf dwelling. A number of people information centre among others. surroundings to shine undisturbed; the light warmth, wrapped in blankets and perhaps owners have occupied the premises, Efri-Vík, claim to have seen various hidden spirits on Hotel Laki is open all year round. -KB nights in the summertime as well as the sipping on a cup of hot cocoa? Photographers since 1968. Initially they were traditional Birdhouse and Telescope the site. Believe what you will, but know stunning northern lights in the wintertime. and the more adventurous travellers can step farmers but evolved into the travel business To bird lovers’ exhilaration, a bird house with certainty that you can indeed read up Hotel Laki recently added a viewing platform outside onto a large balcony to fully take in in 1973. They started building Hotel Laki is located by a nearby lake where plenty of on those mystical creatures on a vibrantly Hotel Laki where guests can observe the great aurora the phenomenon. If you are afraid you will in 2005, right beside their old home, and are information about the Icelandic birdlife is displayed monument, dedicated to them. Efri-Vík • 880 Kirkjubæjarklaustri borealis in a glass dome on the roof of one of sleep in, just ask the hotel staff to wake you continuously making improvements to add to be found. There is also a telescope in the Equally close by is another historical +354 412 4600 [email protected] the hotel’s wings. Can you imagine enjoying up once the northern lights make their grand to the guests’ comfort. Today, the hotel has house to allow for live bird watching of the site dedicated to the history of volcanic www.hotellaki.is 74 75 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

tracta otel ella Suður-VíkFood, Culture, Nature and Restaurant History Combined S H A New Hotel onH Iceland’s South Coast very visitor has a unique take on what makes a destination interesting; some Ecome for the nature, others for the food, some for the culture and history and others for the people. The stately Suður- The pride of Suður-Vík is their pizza, Vík restaurant in Vík í Mýrdal combines which they claim is the best in the area - all of these and more with splendid views a claim many of their customers support. over picturesque rock pillars in the ocean, Other staples include the always popular locally made delicacies, historical building steak sandwich, which Ben says has been and family atmosphere. developed to perfection by the kitchen staff, The house itself is positioned on a hill and of course varied quality Thai dishes to with a panoramic view, in one of Vík’s add welcome variety to a small Icelandic oldest houses, built in 1902. The interiors town. capture the building’s history with romantic Suður-Vík is open from 12:00 noon furniture and decoration, which makes for a to 10:00 p.m., offering lunch and lighter very peaceful and warm place to be. dishes as well as an elegant evening dining The family owned restaurant experience. -VAG imaginatively blends past, present and different cultures, as the restaurant is based – everything from fresh locally caught fish, Suður-VíkVatnshellir Restaurant Cave Suðurvíkurvegur 1 • 870 Vík around local materials and traditions with locally made ice cream and picking their +354 487 1515 a modern twist with the welcome addition own rhubarb for the traditional Icelandic [email protected] ocated in the peaceful village of Hella of Thai influences. All ingredients are local rhubarb porridge. none in South Iceland, Stracta Hotel is one ofL Iceland’s newest hotels that caters for every budget. Built in 2014, the hotel gets high marks for its ability to incorporate a pleasant modern look seamlessly throughout its well thought out concept and design.

A Room for Every Budget swirl through the skies above. Should the from the bistro to take with you on your The hotel encompasses a wide variety of room auroras happen to make their appearance journey. options - from high-end deluxe suites, each while you are sleeping, a wake-up call can with its own private hot tub and well-stocked be arranged so you don’t miss this once-in- mini-bar, right down to budget rooms Health, Wellness and Activities a-lifetime event! Experience Iceland via a wide range of with shared facilities. There are also studio activities that can be arranged at the front apartments and spacious cottages, with desk. Horse riding tours, local farm visits, simple self-catering facilities that are perfect Healthy Food Choices Abound Food options and choices are varied at super jeep tours of nearby Eyjafjallajökull for families with children. Whichever you Stracta Hotel. The bar and bistro located volcano or even an exciting helicopter tour RefreshingHalldór’s Café satisfies locals and Vík travellers alike choose, you can always count on comfortable on the ground floor is where you can order over the most famous South Iceland sites are beds, free access to the hotel’s hot tubs, uests at Halldór’s Café are greeted by day and light salads, and those with a bit of greeting old friends or new acquaintances. healthy sandwiches, salads, cakes and all possibilities. Fancy a massage or healing saunas and wi-fi throughout the hotel. the scent of steaming soup and freshly a sweet-tooth will not be disappoined, as The café is open all year round. Summer deserts, coffee, teas and a variety of wines treatment? Stracta Hotel is well connected! G baked bread as they walk through the door. the menu includes home-baked cakes and opening hours are from 11:00am to 10:00 and spirits. They even offer asian food. Local therapists make themselves available to Across from Vík’s shoreline, with its black home-made ice cream from a local farm. or 11:00pm, but winter openings are from Northern Lights Prime Time Guests will enjoy the panoramic views hotel guests and offer massages, meditation, Stracta Hotel’s prime location, situated far sand beaches, Halldór’s Café emphasises Originally, Halldór’s Café was the general 11:00am to 9:00pm. When travelling in the of the surrounding countryside from the Reiki and cranial-sacral massages. from the light pollution of the bigger towns, the use of only quality ingredients from store, built in 1831 to meet all of the needs area around the beautiful Vík, be sure to stop second floor dining room where a buffet Hotel Stracta welcomes you! -EMV allows guests a fabulous opportunity to the locality in their cooking. Whether of Vík. Today, it continues to satisfy patrons at this charming café and get greeted with a style dinner is served every evening. When view the northern lights from be it a freshly caught salmon you crave, with its menu, which has something for every welcoming smile and a seductive menu. -JB the weather is fine you can take your dinner October through April. Imagine StractaVatnshellir Hotels Cave steaks from grass-fed cattle or free range taste, using local produce, where possible. out onto the balcony, or sit outside on the Rangárflötum 4• 850 Hella Halldórskaffi yourself lounging in a cosy hot +354 531 8000 lamb served with the accompaniment of Halldór’s Café supports artists with a patio below, where you can enjoy the long Víkurbraut 28 • 870 Vík tub, glass of wine in hand, [email protected] locally grown greens – you can be sure that rotating display of local talent featured +354 847 8844 summer nights. Planning a day out? Why www.stractahotels.is as the northern lights Halldór’s Café will deliver. They also offer on its walls, and serves up steaming cups [email protected] not purchase a freshly made packed lunch www.halldorskaffi.is a variety of lighter meals such as soup of the of coffee and cake, ideal for meeting and 76 77 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

bubbling, boiling natural pools - Básahver and Vaðmálahver, where women came to wash he ecret clothes in the days of yore. If you’ve forgotten your swim suit/bathing T S costume or towel, never fear - those items are for hire at the front desk. Beer, wine, soft drinks, juice, as well as coffee and tea are available for purchase in the café and inflatable armbands and ‘noodle’ floats are free to use in the pool. LAGOON Discover the secrets of the Secret Lagoon for yourself. It's an easy drive from the Geysir Dippingin Into the Secretslúðir of Iceland’s Newest/Oldest Swimming Pool Geothermal Area to Fluðir on the Golden F Circle route. But it's a secret, so shhhhhh...... -EMV he history of The Secret Lagoon is the earth at a rate of 10 litres per second, The VatnshellirSecret Lagoon Cave straightforward: originally built in constantly replenishing itself so that there is a Hvammsvegur • 845 Flúðir +354 861 0237 1891,T the ‘Gamla Laugin’ as it eventually steady supply of fresh clean water in the pool [email protected] came to be known, was Iceland’s first at any given time. www.secretlagoon.is swimming pool. In 1909, swimming lessons were offered The Secret Is Out GPS: 64° 8,238’N, 20° 18,557’W (ISN93: 436.251, 404.485) and for many years it was one of the only With the completion of changing rooms, places to learn to swim in the area, right showering facilities, outside deck, walkways up until 1947. Around this time modern and a small café, The Secret Lagoon quietly concrete swimming pools began to appear opened in the summer of 2014 and was an in towns around the country, and little by immediate hit with tourists. little Gamla Laugin fell into disuse. Even though the secret is now out, its owner, who shuns the spotlight, wants The Top-Secret Pool to keep the lagoon low profile and does a For decades thereafter, Gamla Laugin minimum of advertising. The pool, after was virtually abandoned until its present a secret for several years. That is how The all, was built for the tiny community that It’s the Real Deal day owner decided to give it new life in Secret Lagoon got its enigmatic name. inhabited the area at the turn of the 19th Information boards recount the history of 2005. By this time, the pool had long been century and can only take so many bathers the lagoon, and wooden platforms are useful forgotten and for a few years he used it as Technical Details at one time. (tip of the day: it’s good to avoid for viewing the geothermal elements such his own private heated swimming pool just A natural hot spring feeds the lagoon with 38- the peak hours between 4.00 p.m. and 6.00 as the tiny geyser called ‘Litli Geysir’ that for himself and a few friends, remaining 39°C water that bubbles up from deep within p.m. on Saturdays in summer). vigorously erupts regularly, as well as several 78 79 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com Tou r ism, Cu lt u r e a n d Busi n e ss Issue 28 • 2015

THotelhe Borealis, Ea Countrysidenc hanteHotel with Style and Sould Island

hile travelling in Iceland during autumn, the weather and the sun’s changingW light create a unique atmosphere in the countryside. Famous poet Rilke found appropriate words for this time Harmonious of contemplation and retreat: “Lay your shadows upon the sun-dials, and o’er the jarðarból uesthouse isles allow your winds to vent”. HA Personal Touch in a Special GPart of South Iceland

In The Nature’s Heart jarðarból Guesthouse is a family- Visitors are often thrilled to learn that jams Hotel Borealis, just a few kilometres from the owned business situated in a beautiful are available to purchase in the lobby, and charming town of Selfoss, offers the serene partH of the Ölfus district, which has the feel take a tasty souvenir of their visit home with silence of an elegant countryside retreat of being far from the bustle of Reykjavik, but them. while activities and bustling life are at hand Iceland’s famous former parliament site, it is just a short drive away. The guesthouse In addition to a modern building on within short distance. The welcomingly neat discover Gullfoss waterfall and Geysir offers 21 comfortable rooms ranging from the property, Hjarðarból has a structure white houses have been tastefully furnished on a day trip, try golfing on the nearby doubles to family accommodation, and the affectionately nicknamed The Old House, by blending last century’s Icelandic antiques course, or fishing in lake Úlfljótsvatn. And owners debuted a hot tub facility on the which is the first house ever built in the with modern style and prove to be so cosy with daylight slowly fading away, return property this past summer that was a huge hit area. The darling house was built in 1950 that you might never want to leave! Offering to Hotel Borealis for a marvellous dinner among guests. Taking a soak after a long day and represents the history of the area. The 20 comfortable rooms with bathrooms, cosy that is served on antique tables in the spirit of exploring the region is an ideal way to relax owners are renovating at least four rooms bungalows for families and a small villa, of good old Icelandic hospitality. The chef and recharge for the next day of excursions. that will be ready by Christmas, focusing on Hotel Borealis is able to meet the needs of prides himself on using only local products tasteful décor and the comfort of first-time HjarðarbólVatnshellir Guesthouse Cave individuals and groups and makes a perfect the autumn sun pours out her golden beams such as highland lamb, arctic char from lake Delicious Jams and returning guests. Hjarðarból • 816 Ölfus place for a romantic wedding. on heather and red leaves, nearby Þingvellir Þingvallavatn and vegetables grown in the Guests will also find a delicious breakfast Consider Hjarðarból Guesthouse for a +354 567-0045 Hotel Borealis serves well as a calm retreat National Park turns into an enchanted area’s greenhouses for his vaunted venue. buffet with homemade jams prepared by the home-away-from-home experience in South [email protected] www.hjardarbol.is for writing a book or contemplating the island. Cuddle yourself in a traditional wool owner, which is a favourite among guests. Iceland. -JG magic of the Icelandic range of light. When sweater and get ready for a walk through Enjoying Northern Lights When darkness returns in autumn, northern lights start illuminating the night skies, and as Hotel Borealis is situated far away from light THE HOUSE AT EYRARBAKKI pollution, darkness will make them shine even brighter. And there is nothing like soaking in Árnessýsla folk museum is located in Húsið, the House, historical home of the the hotel’s hot tub after an exciting day, with The House at Eyrarbakki northern lights dancing above you! -DT Danish merchants built in 1765. Today one can enjoy exhibitions about the story and culture of the region, famous piano, shawl made out of human hair and the kings pot, are among items. Húsið prides itself with warm and homelike atmosphere. Hotel Borealis Brúarholt II Grímsnes • 801 Selfoss Opening hours: May 1st - September 30th daily 11.00-18.00 or by an agreement +354-863-5793 [email protected] Tel: +354 483 1504 & +354 483 1082 | [email protected] | www.husid.com www.hotelborealis.is

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ICELAND FROM ABOVE Land in creation YFIR ÍSLANDI A Delightful ExperienceIcelandic Times checks out Fjöruborðiðin Stokkseyri Restaurant

hef Eiríkur Þór Eiríksson was busy refreshing and nicely complemented the pouring drinks when we arrived. The seafood and meat dishes. Right on cue as wellC known song Vorkvöld í Reykjavík, (a soon as we had finished the lobster tails, our Spring Evening in Reykjavik) was playing attentive server brought a warm wet cloth for softly in the background. A table of tourists our, by then, messy hands, which was much who had spent the day exploring a glacier appreciated. with a guide, talked animatedly over dinner From the outside, Fjöruborðið appears in the front room. The low slung building deceptively small but in fact, it can seat with pleasantly creaky wooden floors, once several hundred all told, something that serving as the search and rescue building of those having a tête-à-tête in the main Stokkseyri, is now one of the most popular building would never guess. Facing the lobster restaurants in Iceland, with over ocean out back, a large permanent marquee 45,000 patrons dining there in 2014. can seat another 100 or so guests. All that to say, groups are welcome. 15 tons of lobsters can’t be wrong Favoured by tour guides who often bring Fjöruborðið’s website says that some 15 their clients here as the ultimate finish to a Amazing variety and stunning beauty tons of lobster are used annually to make perfect day of sightseeing, the restaurant has Whatever name you go by, it was delicious its famous soup, aka langoustine soup. received several well known personalities and I would have happily eaten another Bird’s eyeMYNDIR view of all OG the popular TEXTI placesEFTIR on BJÖRN 128 pages RÚRIKSSON Hmmm....impressive statistics but does it such as Prince Frederik of Denmark, the bowlful had I not needed to move on to really live up to its reputation? After all, there Rockefellers, Clint Eastwood, Martha taste everything else that was set before me: CD-size – soft cover – Only 170 grams are many fine restaurants right in the capital, Stewart, Bette Midler and Cherie Booth lobster tails that were perfect in themselves, so is it really worth the 45 minute drive over (wife of Tony Blair). -EMV homebaked bread with various dipping Available in most bookstores, many hotels and souvenir shops a mountain in sometimes dubious weather sauces and if, per chance, you are not partial conditions? Yes! I am happy to report that to sea food, there is a wonderfully tender Fjöruborðið the soup was sublime. And just forget the Eyrarbraut 3a • 825 Stokkseyri roasted fillet of lamb served with baby word soup, how pedestrian! Chef Eiríkur +354 483 1550 potatoes and red wine sauce that is excellent. [email protected] informs me that it is, in fact, a classic bisque www.fjorubordid.is A crisp salad made with local produce was OO JARÐSÝN - SELFOSSI de langoustine. PuBLIshER 82 www.icelandictimes.com SOUVENIR SHOP

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