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Ann Arbor, MI 48106 THE ANALYSIS OF MID-NINETEENTH CENTURY MEN'S OUTER - GARMENTS FROM A DEEP OCEAN SITE DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Laurie Casey Crawford, B.S., M.S. ***** The Ohio State University 1994 Dissertation Committee : Approved by: Dr. Lucy R. Sibley Dr. Kathryn A. Jakes D r . Gwendolyn S . O' Neal Dr. Richard W. Yerkes or man of Text and Clothing Copyright Laurie Casey Crawford 1994 To my grandmother and the memory of my grandfather 11 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I want to express my sincere appreciation and thanks to my co-advisors Dr. Lucy R. Sibley and Dr. Kathryn A. Jakes for their time, patience, and insight throughout my Ph.D. program. It has been such an honor to work with them both. I would like to thank my committee members Dr. Gwendolyn S. O'Neal and Dr. Richard W. Yerkes for their interest, support, and comments throughout this project. I also wish to thank Bob Evans, Debbie Willaman, Scott Shade, Judy Conrad, Milt Butterworth, Julie Vanover, and Jenny Bour of the Columbus America Discovery Group Inc. for all of their time and effort on this project; the faculty of the Department of Textiles and Clothing for their monetary award for research for this project; Ellice Ronsheim from the Ohio Historical Society, Otto Thieme from the Cincinnati Art Museum, Dorothy Wilson from the Kent State Museum, Barry Bradley from the Western Case Reserve Historical Society, and Julie Conner from the Kelton House for showing me their collections of men's outer-garments from the mid-nineteenth century; Jim White, Scott Shade and Matt Sibley for their efforts in the cold storage facility; Helen Hudnell for her friendship and kind words,* Suzanne and Craig Douthitt for all iii of their encouragement and support; Hsiou-Lien Chen her insight and friendship; the memory of Bruce Seithel for his friendship; Scott Shade for his patience, encouragement, and support throughout this project; my mother and father for their love and support; John and Hope for their love and encouragement; my grey powder puff who encouraged me to go outside and listen to the birds, his timing was always perfect; and my grandparents through whose wisdom and encouragement I have grown and been enlightened. I dedicate this work to them both. IV VITAE 1986........................... B.S. University of Nevada, Reno, Reno, Nevada. 1984-1988 ................... Cosmetics Sales Associate, Weinstocks Department Store, Reno, Nevada. 1989-1990 .................. Graduate Research Assistant, Department of Human Development and Family Studies, University of Nevada, Reno, Reno, Nevada. 1990.........................M.S. University of Nevada, Reno, Reno, Nevada. 1990-1993 .................. Graduate Teaching Associate, Department of Textiles and Clothing, The Ohio State University, Columbus, Ohio. 1994 to present ............. Field Archaeologist, Archaeological Services Consultants, Columbus, Ohio. FIELD OF STUDY Major Field: Human Ecology: Textiles and Clothing Historic and Archaeological Textiles and Clothing Minor Field: Archaeology TABLE OF CONTENTS DEDICATION............................................. ii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ..................................... iii VITAE ............................................... V LIST OF TABLES......................................... ix LIST OF FIGURES...................................... xii LIST OF PLATES....................................... xiii CHAPTER PAGE I. INTRODUCTION .................................... 1 Problem Statement ............................ 4 P u r p o s e ...................................... 11 Assumptions of the Research ................... 13 Limitations of the Research ................... 13 Definitions .................................. 14 II. THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK ........................ 17 D r e s s ........................................ 17 Phenomenon of fashion ......................... 20 Fashion as communication................. 2i Dress as Indicator of S t atus................... 25 Classification ................................ 27 Artifact Classification Model ................. 28 III. RELATED LITERATURE ............................ 32 Nineteenth Century United States History ....... 32 Migration from Europe to the United States .... 33 The Westward expansion......................... 35 Transportation ................................ 36 R a i l w a y .................................. 37 S h i p p i n g ................................ 39 Shipping and shipwrecks................... 41 Industrialization and Development of Textile Industry42 California History ............................ 49 Demographics of San F r a n c i s c o ................. 51 The Gold R u s h ................................ 52 vi The Political Government of San Francisco .... 53 Social Setting of San Francisco ............... 54 California and the Development of the Transportation S y s t e m ........................................ 57 Shipping...................................... 57 California and San Francisco Trade ............. 60 Banking in California ......................... 63 S u m m a r y ...................................... 64 Fashion and Technology ......................... 66 Structural and Applied Design ................. 69 Men's D r e s s .................................. 71 Men's Under-linen............................. 79 Easton Biographical Information ............... 82 Closed Context ................................ 84 Research Hypotheses ........................... 86 Hypotheses.................................... 86 IV. RESEARCH DESIGN AND METHODOLOGY ............... 89 Research Design .............................. 89 S a m p l e ........................................ 91 Development of the Instrument ................. 91 Instrument Development : Inter-rater Analysis of D a t a ...................... 95 Data Collection ................................. ill Data Analysis ...................................Ill Style and Function............................... 113 Fabric Structure .............................. 114 Fiber Identification............................. 115 V. PRESENTATION OF FINDINGS......................... 117 Cataloging...................................... 117 Classification ................................ 131 Within Category Classification of Men's Dress Items by Identifying Attributes ................. 131 C o a t s ...................................... 131 W a i s t c o a t s ................................. 138 T r o u s e r s ...................................145 N e c k w e a r ...................................150 S h i r t s .....................................161 Collars.....................................174 Pattern Recognition ........................... 177 Identification of Essential Attributes . 178 Fabric Structure ......................... 178 Fabric Pattern ........................... 180 Fabric Design ............................. 184 Fiber T y p e ................................. 186 Outer Fabric Warp and Weft Y a r n s ............ 187 Sewing Thread ............................ 187 L i n i n g .....................................190 Interfacing................................. 190 vii Identification of Key Attributes ............... 192 Presence of a Label.......................... 192 Top Stitching................................195 Presence of Alterations...................... 195 Presence of Mended Areas ................... 197 Identification of Status Attributes............... 200 Historical Inference .......................... 205 Hypotheses...................................... 2ii VI. SUMMARY AND RECOMMENDATIONS..................... 217 Summary of Previous Chapters ..................