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British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies 7 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies Yukon Territory p244 British Alberta p40 Columbia p106 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY John Lee, Korina Miller, Ryan Ver Berkmoes PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to BC & ALBERTA . 40 Roberts Creek . 152 the Canadian Rockies . 4 Edmonton . 44 Sechelt . 153 British Columbia & the Calgary . 56 Powell River . 153 Canadian Rockies Map . 6. Banff & Jasper Vancouver Island . 155 BC & the Canadian National Parks . 68 Victoria . 155 Rockies’ Top 15 . .8 Kananaskis Country . 68 Southern Need to Know . .16 Canmore . 71 Vancouver Island . 167 Cowichan Valley . 169 If You Like… . 18 Icefields Parkway . 73 Banff Town . 76 Nanaimo . 172 Month by Month . 20 Lake Louise . 84 Parksville & Qualicum . 175 Itineraries . 23 Jasper Town & Around . 88 Port Alberni . 176 National & Southern Alberta . 96 Pacific Rim National Park Reserve . 177 Regional Parks . .27 Drumheller & Around . 96 Tofino . 178 Outdoor Activities . 32 Dinosaur Provincial Park . 98 Ucluelet . 181 Regions at a Glance . 37 Head-Smashed-In Denman & Hornby Buffalo Jump . 98 Islands . 183 Lethbridge . 99 Comox Valley . 183 BGSMITH / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / BGSMITH Writing-on-Stone Campbell River . 185 Provincial Park . 101 Strathcona Provincial Waterton Lakes Park . 186 National Park . 101 North Vancouver Crowsnest Pass . 104 Island . 186 Northern Alberta . 104 Southern Gulf Islands . 190 Peace River & Around . 105 Salt Spring Island . 190 Mackenzie Highway . 105 North & South Lake District . 105 Pender Islands . 192 Galiano Island . 194 BANFF NATIONAL PARK P76 BRITISH Saturna Island . 194 COLUMBIA . 106 Mayne Island . 195 Vancouver . 107 Fraser & Thompson R.CLASSEN / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / R.CLASSEN Lower Mainland . 138 Valleys . 195 Burnaby . 138 EC Manning Provincial Park . 195 Fort Langley . 138 Fraser River Canyon . 196 New Westminster . 139 Kamloops . 197 Richmond & Steveston . 139 Sun Peaks . 198 Bowen Island . 141 Okanagan Valley . 198 Sea To Sky Highway . 142 Osoyoos . 202 Squamish & Around . 142 Oliver . .203 Whistler . 144 Vaseaux Lake . .204 Sunshine Coast . .151 EMERALD LAKE, YOHO Penticton . .204 NATIONAL PARK P221 Gibsons . 151 Contents UNDERSTAND Penticton to Kelowna . 207 YUKON BC & the Canadian Kelowna . .208 TERRITORY . 244 Rockies Today . 268 Vernon . 213 Whitehorse . 247 History . 270 North of Vernon . 214 Alaska Highway . 252 Wildlife . 276 The Kootenays & British Columbia to The Rockies . 215 Whitehorse . 252 Artistic Side . .281 Revelstoke . 215 Whitehorse to Alaska . 253 Aboriginal Cultures . 285 Golden . 219 Haines Highway . 256 West Coast Cuisine . 290 Yoho National Park . 221 Klondike Highway . 257 Drinking BC & Kootenay National Carcross . 257 Beyond . 295 Park . 223 Carmacks . 257 Radium Hot Springs . 224 Minto . .258 Fernie . 224 Stewart Crossing . .258 Kimberley . .226 Dawson City . 259 SURVIVAL Cranbrook . .226 Dempster Highway . 265 GUIDE Cranbrook to Rossland . .226 Arctic Parks . 266 Rossland . 227 Directory A–Z . 300 Nelson . 227 Transportation . 308 Nelson to Revelstoke . 229 Index . 315 Cariboo, Chilcotin & the Coast . 230 Map Legend . 319 Williams Lake to Prince George . 230 Barkerville & Around . 231 Bowron Lake . 231 Wells Gray Provincial Park . 231 Chilcotin & Highway 20 . 232 Bella Coola Valley . 232 Northern British Columbia . 233 Prince Rupert . .233 SPECIAL Haida Gwaii . 235 FEATURES Prince George . 240 National & Prince George to Regional Parks . .27 Alberta . 241 Outdoor Activities . 32 Stewart-Cassiar Highway . 242 Wildlife . 276 Alaska Highway . 243 Aboriginal Cultures . 285 West Coast Cuisine . 290 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 23 Itineraries Edmonton •# É É •# Jasper ‚ É Icefields Parkway ALBERTA Columbia Icefield •# •# Athabasca Glacier É BRITISH Lake COLUMBIA •# Louise Moraine •# Lake É •# Banff R 10 DAYS Epic Rockies Roll The Rockies are a must-see for any visitor to Canada. You can cover all the jaw-dropping highlights on this grand tour. Start in gateway city Edmonton, spending a couple of days shopping, perusing muse- ums and puttering around the Old Strathcona neighborhood. Then hit Hwy 16 westward for your first big drive: a half-day weave to Jasper. Check in for three nights, grab a beer at the Jasper Brewing Co and plan your wildlife-watching around the region’s lakes and mountains. Next it’s time to move on southwards via the Icefields Parkway, Canada’s most scenic drive. It’s shadowed by looming crags and studded with inquisitive bighorn sheep that peer at you from the clifftops. Stop en route at the Columbia Icefield and take a hike or truck tour on the Athabasca Glacier. After lunch at the nearby Columbia Icefield Discovery Centre, continue southwards to Lake Louise: take photos and wander the shoreline, saving time for a visit to the equally dazzling Moraine Lake a short drive away. Back in the car, you’ll soon be in Banff. Treat yourself to a fancy hotel sleepover and spend the rest of your visit hiking flower-covered alpine trails and marveling at the epic Unesco-listed landscapes. 24 Bella Bella Coola Coola Valley •# •# É Williams Lake •# É •# Odegaard É Falls Chilcotin PLAN YOUR TRIP Discovery Coast f# þÈ97 Cariboo Hwy Connector Ferry É Port •# Hardy É •# Telegraph Cove •# IT Lytton I NERAR É Vancouver Island I VÉ ancouver ES •# Harrison f# •# •# É Hot Springs Nanaimo P A C I F I C O C E A N WASHINGTON (U S A) 2 BC’s Grand Circle Tour WEEKS There’s much more to BC than its cities; take your time and head off the beaten path via this trip-of-a-lifetime circle odyssey. Start your journey of discovery in Vancouver. Catch the BC Ferries vessel from West Vancouver’s Horseshoe Bay for the short ride to Nanaimo, where you can sink into ‘is- land time’ and start to enjoy Vancouver Island’s laid-back culture – it’s distinctly more independent and small-town than the mainland. After spending the night, head north on Hwy 19, taking an eastward detour to waterfront Telegraph Cove. Take a whale- or bear-watching tour here and check in for a night in one of the restored cottage buildings (book ahead in summer). Continue north on Hwy 16 the next morning and check in to Port Hardy for the night: if it’s still daylight, consider an oceanfront hike. You’ll have an early start to catch the Discovery Coast Connector Ferry the next morning (summer only) but it’s well worth it: a languid all-day odyssey of coastline gazing with the ever-present promise of spotting eagles, whales, seals and more from the sun-dappled deck. Arriving in tiny Bella Coola, which sits at the end of a long fjord, find yourself a rus- tic retreat for a few nights in the Bella Coola Valley. Spend your days exploring trails alongside huge old cedars and make the hike to pounding Odegaard Falls. Go for a river float and lose count of the grizzlies wandering the shores. When you leave, tackle The Hill, a thrill-ride for drivers, and head east through the lonely Chilcotin area. Stop at the alpine waters of the little lakes along the way or just take any little tributary road and lose civilization – what little there is – altogether. At Williams Lake say yee-ha to cowboy country. Turn south on the Cariboo Hwy (Hwy 97), otherwise known as the Gold Rush Trail. The road follows the route of the first pioneers and gold seekers who settled in BC’s un- forgiving interior. From Lytton, head out white-water rafting on the Fraser and Thomp- son Rivers. After these chilly waters, warm up with a soak in Harrison Hot Springs. From here, it’s an easy drive back to Vancouver on Hwy 1. 25 Powell •# Southern Vancouver Island River É f# Sunshine Coast Hop É Porpoise Bay Provincial Park ÷# PLAN YOUR TRIP Qualicum •# Langdale Sechelt É •# Beach •# f# •# S É Port Parksville tr Gibsons É •# a Alberni it Stanley of •# Ge ÷# Park or gi •# Tofino •# a •# É Nanaimo Vancouver É Vancouver IT Island I •# NERAR Chemainus U S A Cowichan •# I Bay ES P A C I F I C É O C E A N Victoria •# Southern Sunshine Coast 1 4 WEEK Vancouver Island DAYS Hop The BC capital is the perfect gateway for It’s hard to get lost on this easy escape exploring the charms of Vancouver Island from Vancouver; the area’s only highway on a winding weave that links several invit- links all the main communities in a linear ing communities. Start with two nights in fashion. Drive on and enjoy a laid-back, capital city Victoria, giving yourself plenty island-like ambience. Head north from of time to explore museums, galleries and Vancouver on Hwy 99 through Stanley historic streets before departing north- Park and make for West Van’s Horseshoe wards on day three via Hwy 1. Take your Bay ferry terminal. Take the Sunshine time weaving through the Malahat Moun- Coast vessel to Langdale and roll off onto tain region but allow time for a long lunch Hwy 101, the region’s main artery. After in the idyllic waterfront community of a few minutes you’ll be in artist-studded Cowichan Bay. It’ll be hard to tear your- Gibsons, an ideal lunch stop – water- self away (there are B&Bs in the area if you front dining recommended. Check into can’t manage it) but worthwhile to contin- a local B&B, then take an early-evening ue north to Chemainus, a former logging kayak tour on the glassy ocean. Rejoin- town now adorned with dozens of murals. ing Hwy 101 the next morning, continue It’s not far to your sleepover in Nanaimo, on to Sechelt and consider a shoreline the island’s second city, where there are forest hike in Porpoise Bay Provincial some decent restaurants and a popular mu- Park. If you’re lucky, you’ll also catch the seum. Next morning, you’ll be off to check summertime Farmers & Artisans Market, out the friendly oceanfront communities of a great way to meet the locals.
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